Spring 2009 Issue 13
1
ILOVEFAKE TEAM Editor In Chief & Art Director Jolijn Snijders jolijn@ilovefakemagazine.com
Fashion Director
Jordy Huinder jordy@ilovefakemagazine.com
Fashion Editor
Debbie Wester debbie@ilovefakemagazine.com
Editor
Niels Erik Toren Xaviera Aubri Cover: “Issue 13” Photography VIKTOR VAUTHIER
Photographers
Kris de Smedt, Eric Guillemain, Erez Tom High, Sarah Mauer, Hasisi Park, Yaniv Edry, Viktor Vauthier, Philipp Mueller, Jack Greer, Jolijn Snijders, Linda Alfvegren, Jeremy Williams, Andy Tan, Marc Deurloo
Contributors
Patricia Yague, Sabine Peeters, Glenn De Block, Stephanie van Maele, Rene Hauser agency, Margot van Essen, Jirat James Patradoon, Ulla Models, Dominique Models, Republic Models, Marilyn Models Paris, Matthieu Pabiot, Colette Paris, New Models, SPS Model Management, Raw Agency, Viva Models, Micha Models, Septantesept, C’est Chic, Eric Elenbaas, House of Orange, Archstudio, Emily, Marijn Bosch, Siko van Berkel, Kimm Bakkers, Annelies Tan, Danny Deluxe, Liselotte van Saarloos, Yannis Kyriazos, Angelique Hoorn, JeremyVille, Raul Vasquez, Philipp Junker, Tanya Koch, B4, Nicola Fscher, Style Council, Samantha Rayner, Luisa Karrer
Published by
Jolijn Snijders Ilovefake Magazine De Zetter 5, 1521CT Wormerveer www.ilovefakemagazine.com
Visit us on Myspace:
www.myspace.com/ilovefake
Advertising
advertising@ilovefakemagazine.com
2
HARDCORE ISSUE
TEEN AGE RIOT
photography JOLIJN SNIJDERS styling JORDY HUINDER
06 08 16 24 32 46 48 62 70 80 86 96 98 104 114 120 122 128 140 142 148 162 166
Rise Against -by Niels Erik Toren A day in the life of Cole -photo story by Jeremy Williams Weekend Warrior -by Kris de Smedt Jack Greer Interview Teen Age Riot -Editorial by Jolijn Snijders Hardcore Barbie -Column by Xaviera Aubri The girls in my room -Photo story by Viktor Vauthier Jirat James Patroon -Artist Interview Youth of Today -by Philipp Mueller Interview with Philipp Mueller In Dreams,.. I walked with you -Fashion Editorial by Andy Tan Danny deluxe by Debbie Wester Black leather -Editorial by Marc Deurloo Interview with Artist Jeremy Ville He sold his Soul to Punk -Fashion Editorial by Jolijn Snijders Paradise Island -by Niels Erik Toren Bad to the Bone -Fashion Editorial by Linda Alvegren Yaniv Edry Interview Must-Haves by Jordy Huinder Nine to Five by Erez Tom High Before Fashion Photo story & Interview with Eric Guillemain Raül Vázquez -Interview by Debbie Wester Wicked Garden -Fashion Editorial by Sarah Mauer - Opposite Page:
Helen wears top by Suit & Robe CLAES IVERSEN - This Page:
Rutger wears Pants HEREN VAN
KOSTER, Stockings by AMERI-
CAN APPAREL
3
contributors JOLIJN SNIJDERS
Founder / Art Director, Amsterdam Growing up in The Netherlands with punkrock kids and bands, Jolijn Snijders lives & breathes rock and roll. At gigs she got handed down countless cut & paste fanzines, flyers and homemade coversleeves. “Everything is independent and DIY, you get inspired by everything around you”. Jolijn wanted to create a similar ‘homemade’ zine, one where upcoming talent and established artists meet, mixing art, photography & fashion. Driven on discovering cool mad artists, spotting new talent became her mission and started Ilovefake Magazine in 2005. After graduating Art Academy she worked in advertising for clients such as Guess and Hilfiger. Now the life-source of Ilovefake, and making a living as a photographer with published work by Karl Lagerfeld, Indie, Baby baby baby magazine, Avant garde, Ellegirl, Ozon, Metal Magazine, etc.
JORDY HUINDER
Fashion Director, Amsterdam Mad as a hatter Jordy lives and works in Amsterdam as a fashion stylist. During his studies as a Fashion Designer at the School of the Arts in Utrecht, he lived in London where he interned for none other than punkrock queen Vivienne Westwood. After that followed an internship at high fashion glossies ELLE and Marie Claire magazine. Currently Huinder is freelancing as fashion stylist for countless magazines such as Vice, Avantgarde, Indie, Ozon, etc. Next to his freelance job he works hard as the new Fashion Director for Ilovefake Magazine.
DEBBIE WESTER
Fashion Editor, Amsterdam Fascinated by fashion, rock, tattoo’s and undergroundscene Debbie worked for the clothingbrand Gsus and started a few years later as a fashioneditor for the program RTL Boulevard. There she devised items that contained subjects like fashion, art, design, music and lifestyle and did interviews as well. Wester met a few of her heroes like Helena Christensen, Walter van Beirendonck, Viktor&Rolf, Dita Von Teese and Cassetteplaya. Now she’s a freelance fashion-editor and interviewed new upcoming designers for the Offschedule event and CODE mag.
XAVIERA AUBRI
Fashion Editor, Amsterdam Growing up with fashion and art around her at a young age, it is no surprise that Xaviera was towering towards a creative profession. With no interest in academics except for the party events that highschool held, drawing, sewing and overall dressing up became a daily activity. As Senior Fashion editor for ELLEgirl, she draws inspiration from counter cultures like emokids in Osaka, Japan and polyreggae cultures in Hawaii. A long list of icons is credited for inspiration, ranging from women like Paloma Picasso, metallic arts from Jeff Koons and pictures from david Bailey. Her favorite fashion accesory? ‘My colored passport cover, that I have to remove everytime I enter the States’. 4
JIRAT JAMES PATRADOON Artist, Sydney
Jirat James Patradoon (24) from Sydney, Australia lives and breathes on a superdiet of cartoons, comic books, and sci-fi movies. Famous for making giant candy coloured screenprints and posters of fictional characters or “Teenage vigilantes”. Patradoon always dreamt of joining the X-men, becoming Ultraman, or Dracula, or a Lucha Libre pro wrestler.These ambitions reflect themselves in his work and we want to know all about it!
VIKTOR VAUTHIER
Photographer, London In a world where we are constantly bombarded with artificial images, Viktor Vauthier’s photography is a breath of Fresh air. Born in south of France and raised in London, he is incorrigible, he’s in constant motion, working several cons at once. “I constantly see images that have been photohopped beyond reality and make people and things looks unreal”. Using an old Compact 35mm rolls film Camera and no photo-shopping or any editing made his photographs with unique colors and grains. — http://viktorvautier.blogspot.com/
PHILIPP MUELLER
Photographer, Zurich In this issue Philipp Mueller shares his rock and roll view on the world. Born in Zurich, Switzerland Philipp is riding through life with a camera in his hand, documenting fashion and models everywhere he goes. Philipp has worked for clients such as Rene Lezard, Wolford, and published his work in several fashion magazines such as GQ, Jalouse, Intersection, WAD, Indie magazine, etc. We are happy to introduce Philipp as a new contributing photographer for Ilovefake magazine.
JEREMYVILLE
Artist, New York Jeremyville draws a lot, produces books like “Vinyl Will Kill” (on designer toys) and “Jeremyville Sessions” (both published by IdN). Jeremy creates products, shows his work in art shows, collaborates with companies such as 55DSL, KidRobot, Master Card, Rossignol, and recently launched his own version on the Converse sneaker. “Any day that I create something is a positive day for me. I don’t think a day is better than others, It’s about each moment being supreme, and lived truly.”
5
I
FAKE
6
Photo VIKTOR VAUTHIER
RISE AGAINST
text NIELS ERIK TOREN
Days filled with frantic despair. Torn papers, frustrating grim status reports, spread throughout all continents like an epidemic . Everybody is on the edge, waiting to be pushed over. To be let down or put off. And in the midst of this so called credit crunch, if you look good, in dim bars set in back alleys or even on some streets, preferably below sea level and just before dawn or long after dusk, you can still find those true spirits. Mostly drunk, yes, but more reliable than ever, to put to use their ability to launch sudden and temporary counter-attacks. Momentary attacks directed at all things vile, cruel and evil in this world. This team of somewhat untrained experts, with mostly no connection to each other, or even knowledge of their comrades existence, or their own value. Have throughout time shown their true faces and the impact they can have on entire societies. And if you look closely, you can see throughout the course of history they have had some remarkable successes, the summer of love, rock and roll music, pornography or many hard-fought battles (fought in courtrooms or senate halls) which gained liberties and freedoms, which we were previously not allowed to enjoy by the forces of old and evil. I admit the artistic value of some of these upsets are sometimes not noteworthy, and other initial coups have been properly raped by those same forces, that have been structurally destroying our ambitions and seizing our dreams - only to change them unrecognizably,
chuff them back at us along with a vicious price tag - for years. And now, in these omnipresent dark days, days in which we are being snarled at, beat at and violated on all fronts, we all silently cry out, mostly unconsciously for another victory. For an invisible hand to grab those evil conspiring bastards by the balls and put them against the wall, for us to throw rocks at – so to speak, naturally. And even I, am guilty, for calling on, freaky and likely imagined ghosts, who can put a stop to this travesty that is abusing my aspirations vigorously. I completely acknowledge the fact it is evil to point fingers, as it is just as evil to stick them in someone’s asshole – unwillingly that is. But, I also know, this crisis, was brought upon us, not by poor workers, or people struggling to make ends meet, or freaks, outcasts, minorities, creative minds of any kind. It was done, by the people we have put in charge and given our trust to run our countries, banks, investments. We never before, sometimes out of ignorance, complained about their royal bonuses or their obscure bank accounts, or about their clearly visible legal advantages. We never had a good reason, because they did a fine job for many years. And although some of us always felt they plotted something or saw they lacked commitment; missed meetings because they were too busy to fuck their mistresses - covered in blood diamonds like fucking Christmas trees – at their extravagant hotel rooms in lush tropical beach resorts.
All happily teamed up together for a day out to golf or kill innocent little rabbits with sawed off shotguns and starved dogs chasing them. One of my dear friends once said:”My my bank account is running empty, my stocks plummet, desires unmet, because these fuckers are too busy snorting lines of pure cocaine – which, by the way, is another example of things being withhold from us – while my fucking nose is falling off…” Now, times have changed. Here we are now, entertain us, famous words by an unrecognizable poet, none else than Kurt Cobain himself. Let the fat burn and their victims run around appraised. Anarchy is not my calling, or my vision, but I would personally benefit from these pigs demise. With these whimpering swine on top of the pyramid, greed sets the standard and creativity and art are not appreciated. If there would be public uproar, escalation of tensions worldwide, not pointing fingers at each other, but self criticism. We could as common brothers and sisters overthrow this reign of terror and oppression. Sounds like gibberish to me, but in fact it makes sense. Hard Core, that’s what we are. Hardcore outcasts, hardcore dope fiends, hardcore lunatics, Hardcore professionals. So pick someone else to screw you filthy banking pieces of shit. Because the fat is in the fire, and we won’t stop this inferno until our demands have been met.
7
I
FAKE
A DAY IN THE LIFE OF
COLE
Photography by JEREMY WILLIAMS Styling by patricia yagüe
model Cole Kwiatkowski - Cole (12) lives In Williamsburg, Brooklyn. His mother is Ex-Model and Makeup Artist Alexandra Kwiatkowski. Father is Photographer Bogdan Teslar Kwiatkowski, You might know Cole from his Lead Role in the video “Broken Boy Soldier” by The Raconteurs. 8
9
I
FAKE
10
11
12
13
I
FAKE
14
15
- This Page: Barbara wears glasses by Andrea
Cammarasano,
dress
by
Elena Denter
- Credits: Make-up: Sabine Peeters at C’est chic agency, Production Stephanie Van Maele – Septantesept Photography at House of Chic, Model Barbara Deurloo at New Models 16
17
18
- This Page: Barbara wears shoes and glasses by Andrea Cammarasano, dress by Stephanie site Page:
D’Heygere
- Oppo-
orange collar by Stephanie
D’Heygere
19
- This Page: Barbara wears shoes & glasses by Andrea Cammarasano, dress by Stephanie D’Heygere, legging H&M
- Opposite Page: orange collar by Stephanie D’Heygere, green panty by Stephanie D’Heygere, shoes by Andrea Cammarasano 20
21
- This Page: Barbara wears shoes by Andrea
Cammarasano,
dress
by
Elena Denter, legging H&M, jacket by Stephanie D’Heygere - Opposite Page: top by Stephanie D’Heygere 22
23
I
PHOTO
JACK GREER
24
The 22 year old kid JACK GREER from New York caught our eye with his DIY photo zine “Hanging out” which he secretly at his place of employment, an imaging lab. Jack started out by documenting his friends and surroundings with disposable cameras, he’s only 22 and not even graduated, but we’re hooked on his photos! Interview DEBBIE WESTER Photos by Tanya Huettner Hair by Yannis Kyriazos
Tell us a bit about yourself, how did you become involved with photography? My name is Jack Greer, 22, from New York City. I started taking photos as a young teenager. I brought disposable cameras in order to take pictures of my friends and I going out skateboarding around Los Angeles. My friends weren’t taking pictures and I wanted to have documentation of the places we explored and the activities we were involved in. I’m glad I managed to get those photos at that stage in my life because there is seldom an opportunity to photograph a group of friends that large all hanging out together roaming around. People have obligations; jobs, girlfriends, school, and a host of other reasons that those first pictures won’t be reproduced. Can you tell me more about your zine “Hanging Out”? I fucking love making zines. I have issues with people having the opportunity to passively access my work. At the same time, I want to share my experience with others. These competing ideas find some reconciliation in the form of zines. I make my zines by printing them at work (in an imaging lab), so I get to make them all for free. However, I can only steal so much paper and ink without getting caught for it so I do small editions. The fact that my editions are so small keeps the work somewhat private and allows for a 1 to 1 relationship with whoever the fuck gets their hands on it. A zine/book is special, I love looking at them and I covet my friends’ zines. Hanging out was one of many zines that I’ve made over the past 4 years. It deals with the same issues as previous projects I’ve worked on which center around the ways in which people communicate. There’s elements of adolescent rebellion, sex, trouble starting, etc...but I don’t want it to be a blatant display of these things, and definitely not exploitative. It’s supposed to be sensitive, empathetic. What inspires you to get up in the morning? The alarm clock wakes me up, responsibility gets me out of bed, my bike gets me over the bridge.
What do you do on a typical day? I’ve found that with the amount of repetition there is to be expected in any given day, it helps to take a different route home or even just go in circles for ten minutes to throw off the schedule. When I was in school growing up, my father would often take a different set of streets home rather than the quickest route every time. This sort of consciousness has influenced me greatlly, even if it means merely going the wrong way for a few minutes. What does Hardcore mean to you? The term hardcore pisses me off because it relies on awareness. What I mean by that is, something that is perceived as hardcore is often the result of an attempt to be hardcore. You’re not punk because of your leather jacket, to put it another way. That which is hardcore need not be discussed as such. Figure it out and fuck it up. Do your pictures tell stories? There’s always good stories but they were better experiences. Future plans? I plan on graduating (by the time people read this I’ll either be graduated or in a heap of trouble). I’m working on a new book right now to follow up the series I’m working on. The first two are called “Conversations” and “Another Conversation”. Unlike some of the previous zines, they are not meant to operate as a portfolio of photographs. I’m working with the idea of producing a meta-narrative through an unfiltered series of drawings, photographs, videograbs, and other media. And although I don’t have a real website, I made a blogspot to work out some similar ideas with the presentation of my work. I’m supposed to tattoo a dead bunny on a girl’s neck too. And I’m trying to get an original copy of my birth certificate so I can apply for my passport and go to Europe for the month of June, or until the money runs out. Jackgreer.blogspot.com 25
26
27
I
PHOTO
“I’m supposed to tattoo a dead bunny on a girl’s neck”
28
29
I
PHOTO
30
“hardcore need not TO be discussed. Figure it out and fuck it up.”
31
I
FASHION
TEEN AGE RIOT
photography jolijn snijders styling jordy huinder
32
 - Opposite Page:
Helen wears top by Suit & Robe Claes Iversen - This Page:
Rutger wears Pants Heren van
Koster, Stockings by American Apparel
33
I
FASHION
 - This Page: Helen wears Coat / Dress
Joline Jolink - Opposite Page:
Rutger wears Dress Individuals, Pants Xh Sa, Vest Joline Jolink 34
35
36
 - Opposite Page:
Rutger wears Dress used as top David van der Schraaf. - This Page: Rutger
wears Jumpsuit Heren van Koster, Stockings American Apparel
37
I
FASHION
 - This Page: Helen wears Jacket Maison Martin Margiela by Sprm-
kt Underwear American Apparel, Boots Individuals - Opposite
Page: Helen wears Dress / Coat Joline Jolink, Skirt Gestuz 38
39
I
FASHION
 - This Page: Helen wears Skirt Individuals, Robe Claes Iversen
- Opposite Page: Rutger wears Jumpsuit Heren van Koster 40
41
 - This Page: Rutger wears Jacket Avalon
by Blue Blood - Opposite Page:
Rutger wears Sweater Xh Sa, Skirt Sigi, Stockings American Apparel
42
43
44
 - Opposite Page:
Helen wears Dress used as skirt Maison Martin Margiela - This Page: Rutger
wears Jumpsuit Heren van koster
- Credits: Photography by Jolijn snijders at Eric Elenbaas, Styled by Jordy Huinder at Eric
Elenbaas, Assistant Photography Emily, Make up & Hair Margot van Essen at House of Orange, Models Rutger at Ulla Models, Helen at Dominique Models, Thanks to Matthijs van Rhoon at Archstudio
45
I
FASHION
HARDCORE BARBIE
text and photo XAVIERA AUBRI
I don’t have a hardcore bone in my body. You can ask the doctor that once made an X-ray at the hospital. In art college I wished I was more ‘arty’ but from day one it was clear I wasn’t very deep like some of the students around studying design. I came into class wearing a black Kimono Dolce & Gabbana blouse, with a long tight black skirt and black sandals with gold statement earrings and revealing a tummy as flat as the country I live in. There were some jaws that dropped, some eyes as big as a blowfish and no sound around. Until one of my fellow classmates pointed out that I was somewhat of a fashion Barbie. Ouch!! Barbie? I guess I didn’t quite look like mr. Edward Scissorhands that made the comment and felt out of place in a classroom full of art kids ready to dive into the whole poor artist lifestyle. I wasn’t. I mean I love fashion. And when I say love, I mean the bohemians had nothing on my moneysaving skills all in the name of buying books, paint, magazines and museum tickets. Instant Noodles, macaroni and lemonade were the main staple at my dorm, all of course to economize and save up for other more pressing necessities like uhm...Margiela bodysuits and Dries van Noten sweater dresses. Barbie slash victim would be the correct term. 46
And when in love with la mode, you go to Paris. And I did. With 40 dollars for food I went to an exhibition, the fabric district and of course Palais de Tokyo. And in doing so I discovered my inner hardcore self. I AM the budget traveler. In the name of fashion I have trotted around the globe on a penny, eating cheap food, sleeping in hellholes and walking more miles than Lance Armstrong bikes in the south of France. Hussein Chalayans infamous furniture turns clothes collection, the costume institute at the Me showcasing the wonderful excentric items that made Thierry Mugler famous in the nineties, including the motorcycle corset that George Michael had in his Freedom video. Vivienne Westwood in Hong Kong and Zandra Rhodes ever amazing kaftans with the prints she designed after the multicolor pen drawings she drew in a sketchbook during her travels to the Grand Canyon, Australia and China during the 70’s and 80’s. So I might not have spatted paint all over my collections or made brilliant couture out of recycled materials when in college, my love for artisanal fashion brings out the extreme in me.
Photo JOLIJN SNIJDERS model LUCYNA at Marilyn PARIS
47
M ROO Y M IN S L IR THE G
photography VIKTOR VAUTHIER 48Grace, Ella, Cosmo models
49
I
GIRLS
50
51
I
GIRLS
52
53
I
GIRLS
54
55
I
GIRLS
56
57
58
59
I
GIRLS
60
61
I
ART
Jirat James Patradoon JIRAT JAMES PARADOON (24) from Sydney, Australia lives and breathes on a superdiet of cartoons, comic books, and sci-fi movies. Famous for making giant candy coloured screenprints and posters of fictional characters or “Teenage vigilantes”. Patradoon always dreamt of joining the X-men, becoming Ultraman, or Dracula, or a Lucha Libre pro wrestler. These ambitions reflect themselves in his work and we want to know all about it! Interview JOLIJN SNIJDERS Artwork by JIRAT JAMES PATRADOON
How did you start your career? Things really snowballed for me after my Honours year at artschool. I majored in Printmaking and exhibited a series of large format screenprints depicting a masked teenage vigilante – people really enjoyed it and it was mentioned on a few blogs. From that I started getting illustration work which was kind of weird for me at first because I saw myself more as an artist than an illustrator but it began picking up momentum and speed so I just went with it. What were your first projects/ ideas? Not a lot of people know this because I don’t show the work at all but my earliest works at artschool were self portraits as Dracula and Van Helsing. I would do these lino-cuts and etchings of me slaying myself in a coffin and things like that. I thought it was pretty funny but not a lot of other people got it. I always I have the most fun when I’m doing something random like that. Do you see life in greater detail than others? I notice clothes and proportions a lot. I love drawing clothes, I really pay attention to things like how certain jeans stack at the bottom or the folds in leather jackets, people’s hairstyles etc. I get really excited when I see people with the same body proportions as an Egon Schiele painting or a Scott J Campbell drawing. 62
I carry a sketchbook around a lot but it is mostly full of lists. On the way to work in the morning I always try and draw how different Railway officers wear their uniforms and adapt them to their personal silhouettes. I’m interested in those sorts of things. What are you working on now? I’ve been given the opportunity to do my first ever short comic book story so I am working on that. It will be featured in Image Comics’ Popgun Anthology, which is kind of like a mixtape of experimental comics. I’m really excited about it because I’ve never really thought of doing comics before; I just draw in a pastiche of that style. I’m thinking of doing a black and white wordless story, I don’t know what the story is yet I just know how I want it to look haha. What does “hardcore” mean to you? Hardcore is going beyond your limits and losing all sense of self-preservation. When I think of hardcore I think of that wrestling match where The Undertaker choke-slammed Mankind through the top of a cage and onto a bed of thumbtacks, and they still kept on fighting. That was totally hardcore. Can you tell us more about your FICTIONAL characters? The characters I create are a pastiche of masculine archetypes, bikers, gangs,
action- men, mythical gods, superheroes etc. Masculinity is too often defined in black and white terms, so I explore the polarities of hyper-masculine and effeminent behaviour in search of the grey areas. I’m interested in the campiness of costumes and stylised performative violence, like peacocks having a deathmatch. Please describe your regular week for us? I actually work at an art school full time. My regular week is spending all day at work making sure the studios are running properly, showing students how to do things, fixing things, and then I come home and do art/illustration work at night. Weekends are usually spent doing art/illustration work as well so you could say I have two full time jobs. At one point I was working 20 hours a day for a while, things can get pretty crazy, for this reason I am slow at responding to emails and my friends think I avoid them. Who do you work for? I’m a freelance illustrator so I work for lots of people. My favourite projects are the ones that really push my ability and vision and I come out the other end with new ideas and techniques. I really respect a client that understands my aesthetic and hires me on that basis; I work really hard for them because they are trusting me to articulate their vision in my style, they hire me for me, which sounds
63
I
ART
64
simple enough but sometimes you get clients who see that you do comic style character illustration but then ask you to paint a landscape in oils. Fortunately I’ve been lucky enough to have worked with some amazing art directors who really know their shit so it has been a wonderful ride so far. If you could pick anything, what would be your dream project? I love illustrating clothes so I’d really like to do draw a Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, or Dior Homme editorial. That would be the perfect marriage of my two loves, fashion and illustration. I also love drawing duo bands, dream clients would be Justice or Crystal Castles or The Presets or Death From Above 1979 (but they broke up). Where do you find inspiration? I watch a lot of movies and tv series. I like the way lighting and framing can create a mood. I pay a lot of attention to dialogue, I’ve gotten really good at quoting Madmen. I spend hours looking at film still forums on livejournal, and I also dig image feed websites like Yimmy’s Yayo. Its all about being overstimulated with imagery and narratives – that is when I’m most inspired. Who or what influenced your work? When we were young, my friends and I would sneak around this battered up copy of the anime Ninja Scroll on VHS and I remember seeing the trailers for the other anime movies at the beginning and just thinking ‘What the fuckkk??’ Here were scenes of super graphic violence and sex but as cartoons? We went
from watching innocent stuff like Transformers and GI Joe to watching Wicked City and Guyver. I loved the irony of seeing such adult oriented themes done in a child-oriented way. I think that has always stuck with me. I like using different styles and mediums for functions that they weren’t really intended to be used for - in a subversive way. The best day in your life, what happened or what could it be? Gosh, best day in my life would probably be when they move an ancient English Castle on top of Shibuya 109 and tell me through some strange chain letter type coincidence that I have inherited the penthouse suite and I don’t have to pay any rent ever on the condition that I am room-mates with j-pop star Gackt – that would be a great day. Any cool upcoming artists that we need to check out? I don’t know how upcoming they are but I’ve been enjoying the work of Scott Anderson and Michael Ciervo a lot. I’ve been digging painters recently. A quote that really sums you up? In regards to historical writing, a lecturer of mine once said “A fish has no word for the sea.” – in other words, a fish can’t see the sea until it gets caught and pulled out of it. I think he was paraphrasing someone else but I never found out who it was. You can never really know or completely understand where you are in life until you can see it in retrospect, so don’t overthink things, all you can do is your best.
What has been your favorite artwork until now? I like a work I made called Shark Plague. I started drawing it about a year before I finished and screenprinted it. It got too hard to draw and so I put it aside. Then as my draftsmanship improved I took it back out and finished the drawing in time for a solo show. It is quite different to my other work in its perspective and limited colour palette. It sold really well and I used the image as a mural, painted on the wall of a Sydney nightclub. Future goals? For my personal work I want to move away from screenprints and get into costume design. I want to construct the garments and masks that my characters wear and exhibit them as sculptures. It is still in its planning stages so it is quite far off but I can’t wait to get started on it, I’ve been talking about doing it for ages but I’ve always been too busy to make a start on it – which is kind of a good thing. Famous last words? I was watching Dig! The other night, it is a Dandy Warhols/Brian Jonestown Massacre documentary – I liked what Courtney Taylor Taylor says toward the end about the art life “When it is good it is fun, when it is bad it is funny.” I think that’s a good outlook – people can get way too serious. MORE INFO http://www.jiratpatradoon.com 65
I I ART ART
66
67
68
69
I
FAKE
WE’re THE YOUTH OF TODAY. Photography PHILIPP MUELLER at RENE HAUSER 70
Y. 71
‘I don’t live in the future. I live in the moment.’
72
73
I
FAKE
74
75
I
FAKE
“We’re not the first, I hope we’re not the last, cause I know we’re all heading for that adult crash, the time is so little, the time belongs to us. Why is everybody in such a fucking rush? Make do with what you have, take what you can get, pay no mind to us. We’re just a minor threat.”
- Minor Threat 76
77
I
FAKE
78
79
I
FAKE
PHILIPP MUELLER PHILIPP MUELLER’S ROCK N ROLL VIEW ON THE WORLD HAD ME AT HELLO. BORN IN ZURICH, PHILIPP IS RIDING THROUGH LIFE WITH A CAMERA EVERY WHERE HE GOES. PHILIPP HAS WORKED FOR CLIENTS SUCH AS RENE LEZARD, WOLFORD, AND PUBLISHED HIS WORK IN VARIOUS MAGAZINES SUCH GQ, JALOUSE, INTERSECTION, WAD,.. WE ARE HAPPY TO INTRODUCE HIM AS A new contributing photographer for ILOVEFAKE MAGAZINE!
Philipp you are a photographer from Zurich, how did you start your career? I was born in Zürich, the smallest Metropolitan city with a London touch and mediterranean feeling. But for many years, my base has been in Paris. Photography is the gasoline in my life, more than a profession, a lifestyle if you will. My Interest in photography started while shooting a cover for my Mixed Tapes, I was producing as a local DJ. A career is something you work on throughout your life How would you describe your style? A good friend of mine described it as “rock nʼ roll chic”. But I am very restless and always in search of new horizons in photography... Thatʼs why my style is always changing. Tell me more about your neighbourhood? My “hood“ consists out of my friends and family. I am not very attached to the places I live in. Any plans on moving to another city? New York would be a challenge. I like the mix between a major city, a small town and a beach. What does hardcore mean to you? No compromises, raw power, energy, danger, excitement, Henry Rollins, excess, full of life...... Who influenced your work, in music, film, other photographers, etc? 80
My earliest Influence in my work came from Anton Corbijn, as a Photographer. My musical roots are New Wave and Punk from the late 70ʼs and early 80ʼs. Movies like Stranger than Paradise, Film Directors like Scorsese, Tinto Brass, Wim Wenders, Jim Jarmush, Godard, Warhol, Larry Clark, Gus Van Sant, (Beside that I watch a lot of bullshit like Stallone movies, Sci-fi, reality soaps and all kinds of TV trash) There’s a lot of rock influences in your work, can you tell us more about it? Music is the engine in my photography. Really depends on the mood of the shoot I am working on. From Britt Pop to Iggy and Rollins, Punk, New Wave, Electro Clash, Grunge and Metal- It all keeps my energy level high and my mind fresh. Where do you see yourself in 10 years? I don’t live in the future. I live for the moment. Do you plan on exhibiting your work? Not yet, not ready yet. What about personal projects, what would you like to photograph? I am working on two nude photography books. One about my best friend Sandra. I have photographed her for about 10 years. At the moment we call it “Naked Summer”. The other one consists out of naked portraits of different women, but still with a rock attitude.
81
I
FAKE
A few people you would love to work with? Pete Doherty, Dave Gahan (Depeche Mode), Tony Ward, Kate Moss, Lara Stone, Neil Young and many more. What are you most proud of until now? The past 2 years of my free and editorial work. I found the way back to my roots.
Pistols in a very conservative TV Show. Shouting out these words on public television, typical Punk rock attitude!! Or Joe Strummer’s reply to an American Journalist, who asked him a very stupid question. “Piss off you Stupid Cunt, will you?“
If you’re not working, what are you usually doing? Snowboarding, Ski, Clubbing, heavy and dirty parties, spend some time with family and friends, and I love shopping! What do you ultimately want to achieve in your career? Stay true to myself, mentally young and curious. Favorite quote? “You Dirty Fucking Bastard!“ - The Sex 82
More info: www.phmphoto.com www.renehauser.com
83
84
85
I
FASHION
IN DREAMS, I WALK WITH YOU
86
Photography Andy Tan at Eric Elenbaas Styling Jordy Huinder at Eric Elenbaas
 - This Page: Rianne wears Top Mada van Gaans, Stockings WolforD
- Credits: Set styling Marijn Bosch, Hair Siko van Berkel at House of Orange,
Make up Kimm Bakkers at Angelique Hoorn, Model Rianne at SPS, Topaze at Micha Models
87
I
FASHION
 - Opposite Page: Rianne wears Jacket by Clau-
dia Strater at Spijkers & Spijkers, Cor-
set Der Kommissar, Stockings Wolford, Underwear Wolford, Heels Hugo by Hugo Boss - This Page: Dress Vintage Laura Dols, Stockings American Apparel, Heels Hugo
by Hugo Boss
88
89
 - This Page: Necklace Mattijs, Dress Spijkers
& Spijkers, Chaps Copy of an Imitation
- Opposite Page: Rianne wears Underwear Wolford, Stockings Wolford
90
91
92
 - Opposite Page: Rianne wears Dress Mattijs, Stockings Wolford, Heels Dior by Shoebaloo - This Page: Topaze wears
Dress Spijkers & Spijkers, Stockings American Apparel
93
I
FASHION
94
 - This Page: black stockings Wolford, black lace
Underwear Wolford
95
FAKE
DANNY DELUXE Elegance in Provoking Look
Creating her own style, that is what fetish glamourmodel Danny Deluxe loves the most. She passionately works with styling, make-up, photography and digital photo editing to create her extreme visions. In collaboration with artist Gernot, Danny Deluxe has her own label called GUMENA, where she designs and produces extraordinary latexmasks. The result is an unique combination of bizarre and glamour. - Interview by Debbie Wester Why the interest in fashion and especially fetish? “Fashion is passion. Ever since I could decide by myself what I wanted to wear, I have been interested in fashion. It underlines my personality, I gravitate to fetish, I simply love it. With fetish I can act out different facets of myself, for example extremely enhance feminine proportions (tight corsets, extreme high heels). It’s an extravagant style, vigorous, mystical, futuristic and over all - never boring. And it stimulates, if you are open for it“.
Besides being a designer you’re also an artist. Can you tell us more about your projects? “I am a fetish model and work with styling, make up, photography and digital image editing. Furthermore I design t-shirts with fetish motives, gallery prints, cards, figurines, playset and amazing fetish shirts“. How did you start your career? “My career started 5 years ago. I am a very creative person and worked as a stylist for a long time. Then I
wanted to start something new. Currently I am specialized in designing and producing latex masks - together with my partner and artist Gernot. Our label GUMENA is a latex label specialized in extraordinary masks with a special attention to the details“. Is there something special you want to show people with your designs? Shock them a bit maybe? “I want to show my creativity, my dreams and my visions to the world. And I want to encourage people to try new things. To shock them? People are always shocked when they are confronted with things they don’t know“. Where do you find inspiration for your designs? “My inspiration comes from my dreams, yearnings and desires. My ideas are exteme and extraordinary. Conceptions flow through my head, develop, grow and become fixed ideas which I bring to life. These inspirations come from deep inside, life for me is an inspiration. I don’t orientate too much on current fetish aesthetics, trends and stereotypes. I develop my own style and bring it to perfection. Creating new and spectacular things is a real challenge and such a great fun!“ Sex for me is ... “… lust and vice“. Any dream project you would like to do? “My dream is to have my own performance - with choreography, styling, make
96
Interview Debbie Wester
I
up and off course my own creations. A futuristic movie or a music video clip would be great as well. Which personality would you like to see in your clothes? “Every person who dares to wear something different. People with style, who are curious for life in all it’s facets“. What are your future goals? “There are so many ideas that are waiting to come to life! Designing new masks, latex fashion, photo shootings, and much more. Let me surprise you!” Who would you like to work with in the future? Any special collaboration? “There are so many excellent artists I would love to work with, for instance Eugenio Recuence or Ellen von Unwerth“. Last “hardcore” moment for me was... “The last party! ;)...“
For more information about Danny Deluxe please visit: www.danny-deluxe.com
“People are always shocked when they are confronted with things they haven’t seen before”. 97
I
FASHION
BLACK LETHER photography MARC DEURLOO styling jordy huinder 98
 - Opposite Page:
Rianne wears Short Der Kommissar, Stockings American Apparel, Heels Hugo by Hugo Boss. - This Page: Rianne wears
Pants Mada van Gaans
99
I
FASHION
100
 - Opposite Page:
Rianne wears Top & Skirt Spijkers & Spijkers, Stockings American Apparel. - This Page: Rianne wears Sus-
penders Laundry Industry, Pants Rick Owens by Azzurro Due
101
I
FASHION
 - Opposite Page:
Rianne wears Jacket & back Individuals, Stockings American Apparel - This Page:
Rianne wears Suit Copy of an imitation
- Credits: Photography by Marc Deurloo, Styled by Jordy Huinder at Eric Elenbaas, Make up & Hair Liselotte at House of 102
Orange, Model Rianne at SPS Models.
103
I
ART
JEREMYVILLE Interview Jolijn Snijders Artwork JEREMYVILLE
104
105
YOU MIGHT KNOW Jeremyville’s work FROM books like “Vinyl Will Kill” and “Jeremyville Sessions”. Jeremy draws and paints, He creates products, collaborating with MAJOR BRANDS SUCH as 55DSL, KidRobot, Master Card, Rossignol, recently HE launched his own version on the Converse sneaker. TIME TO STEP IN TO jEREMY’S WORLD. Who are you and what do you do? Jeremyville. I draw a lot, produce books like Vinyl Will Kill (on designer toys) and Jeremyville Sessions (both published by IdN. I make products, and have art shows, collab with companies like my new sneaker with Converse. Jeremyville is a project based concept. How did you start your career and what were your first projects/ideas? Studied Architecture at Sydney Uni, graduated, drew cartoons at Australia’s leading daily newspaper, The Sydney Morning Herald. What kind of project are you working on now? A pilot for an animation series. Designs for 2K t-shirts, I have 10 designs coming out with them. A new toy with Kidrobot. 106
Lots of exciting projects on right now! most coming out in 2009, 2010. Do you see life in greater detail? I try and live in the moment. Every project excites me for different reasons. I always try and challenge myself and try new things. I can’t compare myself to others, I just try and be as good as I can be. Have you collaborated with other artists? Yes, quite a lot, about 500 in my sketchel project (sketchel is a customisable bag, see www.sketchel.com ) , and others on various projects, like Geoff McFetridge, Beck, Genevieve Gauckler, Miss Van, Devilrobots, Gary Baseman, Deanne Cheuk, Tim Biskup, Colette, quite a few. I’ve had Fafi over for dinner if you can call that collaborating. we drew with our fingers dipped in red wine on a napkin.
What music do you listen to? Listen to music all the time, too varied to mention any one genre, or artists, but I do listen to a lot of Dylan. Who influenced you? the new ideas I have, influence me. And my parents. Who would you like to work with? I’m spending the next few months working on my own self initiated projects and some art commissions, which will be out in 09, I’m sort of going underground till the remainder of 08. What projects have you done that you are most proud of? my 2 books, the Jeremyville Converse shoe, my 2 Rossignol snowboards I did, my work with 2K, sketchel, my toys with Kidrobot. My comic stories. A night you’ll never forget....good or bad? I rescued some drowning characters from my stream of consciousness, one night in Jeremyville. The best night in your life....? I draw a lot at night time. Any night that I have been productive is the best night, if I’ve finished a painting, or created some drawings. I don’t like being unproductive.
Where did you grew up and what was it like? Grew up in Wonderland Avenue Tamarama, which is just on a hill above Bondi Beach in Sydney. I skated as a kid, hung out at the beach, never went to art school. Bondi was a very sleepy little beachside suburb of Sydney when I was a kid, it’s a lot more glamorous now. When I grew up there it was a bit rough around the edges. The beach hasn’t changed though, it’s still the same sand. Where can we find Jeremyville now? Mostly online at www.jeremyville.com and I produce products on my own and with companies like Domestic, sold in stores like Colette, and my designs with 2K t-shirts, sold in lots of cool stores around the world. My Kidrobot toys are also sold in select stores internationally. The Jeremyville Converse shoes are in a very select group of stores too. Who do you work for, or what are your favorite projects or clients? companies like Kidrobot, Converse, Rossignol, 55 DSL, 2K by Gingham, Upper Playground, Tiger Beer, Domestic in Paris, I just did a big animation campaign for Mastercard in New York. IdN publishing. What would be your dream project? Any project where the end result matches very closely the initial idea and aim. Where do you find inspiration? I look inwards, and by thinking and drawing on my own. The potential for what’s possible, inspires me. Artists that inspire(d) you? Koons. Warhol. Murakami. Duchamp. Hirst. Seuss. Steinberg. The best day in your life, what could it be? Any day that I create something is a positive day for me. I don’t think a day is better than others, It’s about each moment being supreme, and lived truly. A good moment is not better than a bad moment. It just is, every moment, good or bad, is an equally valid part of life. Future goals? To continue to grow, experiment and evolve. To continue to have the courage to try new things. Famous last words? Please visit Jeremyville. 107
I
ART
108
109
110
111
I
ART
112
113
I
BOYS
114
-This Page: Luuc wears top by heren van koster -Opposite Page: Shirt nón by Kim. Pants Heren van koster
115
I
BOYS
116
 - This Spread: Dylan & Luuc wear
Pants heren van koster, Cap Linda Valkeman, Top Individuals 117
- This Page: Dylan wears dark blue vest & white trousers by Heren van koster. Luuc wears Shirt nón by Kim, Pants heren van koster - Opposite Page: Luuc wears Shirt nón by Kim, Pants heren van koster, Cap by linda valkeman Pants heren van koster - Credits: Models LUUC and DYLAN at REPUBLIC, Hair Styling YANNIS KYRIAZOS, Assistant ANNABEL Middendorp
118
119
I
CHAOS
PARADISE ISLAND Written by Niels Erik Toren Photo by Alfredo Cardozo da Silva
120
So there it is, ahead of me, while I’m cruising down there going six hundred miles an hour, it just lays there, peacefully on the edge of my sight, where dreamland begins. The land of the rising sun, and while I glide, steadily and slowly on a thin strip of clouds, I can see the red glooming sun ascending to heaven as it leaves its nightly resting grounds. The perfect scenery, and as it did many days before, the sun warms my heart and welcomes me, to yet another world of opportunities and obstacles to overcome. Dear sun I love you, you’re so mind numbingly romantic in a strange and lonely way. You’re the giver of life, as dead as you are, and you never, never ask for anything in return, unlike my dear mother who gave me life, bless her, but keeps nagging at me about the dangers of drugs and unprotected fornication. I have to say, Lufthansa disappointed me. I had always thought it to be one of those top class airlines, one of those aces, who can get anywhere at any time. That the seats are made of velvet and you get your own personal screen - a few inches too much for our wildest imagination - planted in the seat of person sitting in front of you, a thousand and one movies on the go and lobster for dinner, some caviar and a casual blow job by one of the blonde haired German beauties on the side. But there was none of that really, no lobster, no caviar and certainly not a quicky with a platinum blonde who is professionally athletic enough to maneuver herself in a comfortable position in the airplane’s toilet. I encountered rude staff, ate fabric food (the one our grannies have to eat in one of those heathen retirement homes we drop them in), sat in a chair as old and small as the Soviet era fat-screen television sets they hung up here and there, not to provide us of any entertainment, of course, just to make sure they could get us to glance at the lifeless flicks (probable post Soviet mind control tactics) so we wouldn’t see the airplane’s engines go up in flames as they managed to get the crew life vests and parachutes. Leave us to burn in our seats without as much of a hint of panic, just moments before
we would crash into the cold and unchartered Ural mountains, leaving no trace of our humble consumerist existence. I checked it on multiple occasions, but there were definitely no beauties on board. It felt so lonely being the only European around, apart from the guy next to me who had forgotten to breathe in the earliest moments of his life which caused his brain to partially stop working (lack of oxygen), keeping him from engaging in any normal activity other than to eat, shit and drool. Poor bastard, and I didn’t even figure it out until the last five minutes when I found out he was planning an attempt to drool over my left leg, I consequently stopped him in his tracks when I threw a bottle of beer over my leg, just to confuse him a bit, get his malfunctioning brain to digest into planning other activities, like leaving me alone for fuck sake. Fourteen hours of this crap. The wheels of the iron eagle touch the cratered runway (thanks yanks) and finally manage to get a grip after much wiggling and bouncing up and down. I am so fucking euphoric of being back in Japan. It feels like home, so much, and only the small and cute inhabitants of this magical country and the weird language they came up with keeps me from actually thinking it is my home. I walk through the desolated terminal, which contains the most strange atmosphere, not welcoming enough to be considered joyful, but on the other side, certainly no rude US customs manners (yeah, they didn’t dig down the good ole glory hole this time just because I’m from the Dam). And then, after another two hours of struggling to communicate, juggling with the currency, traffic jams and dehydration I finally hit the tarmac pavement of Tokyo. And my assignments are to take a cab to my apartment, but I refuse and walk, in the sun, with the wind comfortably waving through my hair and many eager looks from the timid locals. Finally, when the sun once again sets off into the endless ocean, resting after a hard day’s work of keeping us warm and happy, the neon lights take charge of the situation and guide me through the night.
Unlike any night anywhere else. And you go to a club, and you drink and meet old acquaintances, and smoke cigarettes, and dance and direct swift and nervous flirting attempts at the many exotic dream women (in the most good-looking years of their lives, it can only go downhill for them after a few more years really). You expect me to be busy god. To be reading about your seven days work, to meditate over the ball breaking questions and issues we all have to deal with. But I’ll tell you big G, I’m out here, in the middle of Tokyo, chilling, with a hand down my pj’s and a smirk on my face that cannot be dismantled by even the holiest of hands. And with the knowledge, that wherever you may send me, at the end of my journey, it could never be as crazy, as the good times in Tokyo. No fooling me Lord, I know where I belong, neither heaven nor hell, Tokyo. Let the good times roll… “We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” - Bill Hicks Let the good times roll…
121
I
FASHION
bad to the bone
Photography Linda Alfvegren Styling Åsa Lundström at Liganord
122
123
 - Previous Page:
Top by Laitinen, hat by Rike Feurstein, skirt by Penkov Couture, shoes by Prada. - This Page: Helena wears Catsuit by Miu
Miu, vest by Strenesse Blue, shoes by Paul Smith. - This Page: Helena wears
Tee by Wood Wood, vest by Joop!, shoes by Gucci. 124
125
126
 - Opposite Page:
Dress by Joop!, sleeves by Noir, shoes by Prada, hat by Rike Feurstein. - This Page: Helena wears Dress by Joop!, sleeves by Noir, shoes by Prada, hat by
Rike Feurstein. - Close Up: Helena
wears make up by MAC and hair by Sexy Hair. - Credits: Hair & Make Up Stefan
Kehl at M4 motion for MAC & Sexy Hair
Model Helena Hoppe at VIVA 127
I
FAKE
YANIV EDRY Interview JOLIJN SNIJDERS Photos YANIV EDRY
Yaniv Edry was born in Israel in 1971. His first contact with the world of photography came in the form of his father’s Super 8 camera at the tender age of 8. At 18, he began his compulsory military service. During these 3 years he attended various photography courses in the kibutz “Givat Haviva”. After completing the army at the age of 21, he moved to Tel-Aviv. His first work within fashion photography was done taking test shots for new models at a local model agency. His talent was soon recognized by the owner of the agency and at the age of 23 he landed his first big campaign with “Wisotzki Tea”. Following the huge success of this campaign which was shot in India and Nepal, magazines and newspapers in the Israeli fashion industry sought his talent. In 1998 he received the prize for the new up-and-coming talent in photography from the “Olam Haisha” magazine. During his career to date, he has had four solo exhibitions and won the “photographer of the year award” at the Israeli Fashion Oscars 2002 and 2006. After these accolades he started to work internationally with various magazines abroad.
What would be your dream shoot? My biggest dream would be to have one of my pictures become so well known in the world that it would be iconic.
everyday mundane happenings of these girls through my models. I use no sets in these personal projects but instead bring my models to these surroundings and shoot on location.
Who influenced you in your career? My parents have been my biggest influence in my career as they have never stopped supporting me throughout the years. Also Israel with it´s good and bad sides.
What music do you listen to? I love music and while I’m working I listen to: David Bowie, Hercules and the Love Affair, Leonard Cohen. Hot Chip, Jacques Brel, Glass Candy and many more.
What do you like about Fashion? Fashion is constantly changing and it forces you to change with it. Especially I like the energy that revolves around the fashion world. It transcends me into a world of fantasy, art and beauty; thus helping me escape from the reality surrounding me.
What are you most proud of right now? Up until now, I am most proud of my work for British Vogue.
How would someone describe your photography style? People try to define my work in so many different ways. Mostly they believe it to be a combination of documentary and fashion photography and I have no reason to argue with them.
Tell me about your upcoming projects? In the near future I´m planning a solo exhibition about women from three contrasting backgrounds in Israeli society: orthodox jewish girls, modern arabian girls & female soldiers. What most appeals to me is to capture the
128
What magazines or clients do you work for? I have worked with several leading publications including: British Vogue, Twill and with various Israeli magazines. “360 Maalot”, “Yedioth Ahronot” & “Maariv”.I recently shot the “Fox” campaign with Bar Refaeli. My current clients include Honigman, TNT, Nike, Adidas and several leading Israeli designers.
What do your parents do? My mother is an artist and is at the moment designing bags from recycled nylon. I collaborate with my mother in certain shoots. She has made swim suits and other items of clothing for my shooting. My father is an electrician and he is responsible for all the technical know how in my studio. Is there always a story behind your photos? What do you prefer? Of course I would like to have a story behind every editorial but that is sadly not always possible. The story appears more often in my personal projects than in my commercial ones. Do you work alone or in a team? I work with a regular team: Stylist– Simon Almalam Hair – Yaniv Zada and Jean Cohen Make-up – Shirley Wainer
129
I
FAKE
“Fashion transcends me into a world of fantasy, art and beauty .. helping me escape from the reality surrounding me.”
Tell me something about your neighbourhood. What’s it like to live there? I live in Florentin in Southern Tel Aviv. This place has an amazing mix of people. Lots of artists live here. There are endless coffee shops and great places to eat. The sea is is a minutes walk away. The beautiful thing about Florentin is the mix of the old, young, poor and rich people. It really influences me and my work and reminds me at the same time of the place I grew up in “Givat Olga”. The best and worst thing that could ever happen? The worst thing that could happen would be if Iran threw an atomic bomb on Israel. The best thing that could happen would be if there would be peace in the Middle East. A few people that you would like to work with? There’s a long list of people that I’d like to work with: Stephano Pilatti, Marc Jacobs, Kate Moss, ID magazine to name but a few. I would like to work more in Europe with both designers and magazines. Future goals? “Do unto others as you would have them do unto you” It’s a quote from the bible that I try to base my life upon. It would be nice if others followed suit.
130
131
I
FAKE
132
133
134
135
136
137
I
FAKE
138
139
GIVENCHY
GIVENCHY
Catwalk photos by
marcio madeira
FOR YOUR
CO L L ECTION
! Shoes by RAF SIMONS for DR. MARTENS
Skeleton bracelet by DELFINA DELETTREZ
140
METAL Pick up the Latest issue of METAL magazine We love it !
BALMAIN
THINGS BALMAIN
I
Bracelets by EMILIO PUCCI
THIS IS ENGLAND For all Ben Shermn fans, and everyone else... A must-see!!
Digg in the crates to find some DIY PUNK/HARDCORE ZINES Yes, there’s nothing better than Black & white cut and paste copy zines !
So cute, these little SEX PISTOLS dolls !
MUST-READ
Pumps by Queen of Punk VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
SANG BLUE A beautiful publication dedicated to the art of tattoo, pick it up at the better book store.
AMERICAN HARDCORE by Richard Bush
141
I
BOYS
nine to five Photography Erez Tom High Fashion stylist Jonathan Frimerman 142
143
I
BOYS
Hair & Make up Inbal Massas, Model Dennis at Raw agency, Fashion Assistant Dana Lipsker. These photos were taken from a project for 360 maxalot�.
144
“Eat your heart out on a plastic tray You don’t do what you want, Then you’ll fade away, You won’t find me working Nine to five” - Sex Pistols 145
146
147
I
FASHION
148
before fashion Photography ERIC GUILLEMAIN models SIRI, MARIKE, MASHA
149
150
151
152
153
I
FASHION
ERIC GUILLEMAIN When I first heard about ERIC GUILLEMAIN I was shooting a model who he has shot as well. She showed me some photos he took of her and I was blown away by the simple humanistic, and raw way in which he shot her and other girls. His personal work “Before Fashion” portrays models in real way, to the core, almost poetic. The girls are often stripped bare, showing nothing but them selves. Here’s a journey of a man searching for something that’s alive, behind the mask of glitter and glam we like to call fashion.
154
Please write a short bio, who are you and what do you do? I was born in a seaport in Morocco not so far from Ibis island. In this country you have five calls a day hastening the believers to the prayer. As a child I was sometimes terrified by the muezzin. Especially hearing the incantation at dawn. But I guess it influenced me as a singer. This is what I chose for a living right after college back in France. I didn’t want to go to high school. I felt better being on the road with the guys. Drinking Mezcal. Reading a lot of Nietzsche and Dostoievsky. When did you start your career, how did you get into it? I was taking a break in New York. Writing lyrics and collecting ideas to finish up what would be the last CD of the band. When it came out I suddenly gave up on all my dreams and expectations. I quit the band and started assisting in fashion photography, mostly capturing digital files for I didn’t even know how to fix a lens on a bloody camera. In my band I was the lead singer you know. High on arrogance and egotism but it was good though. Well in this new situation I was just serving and disappearing more and more each day. I felt I had to do that. Then I met some exquisite friends, photographers too : Phil and Cesarie Yard. They let me play with their coolpix while on shootings. Then I bought a Nikon D70 and took my first pictures. Vacation pictures. Once ready to expose them well enough I took some quick portraits at home. But I was certainly very lucky too having Agyness and Tanya Dziahileva in the first batch of girls...I won a prize with
155
I
FASHION
these pictures. It led me to where I am right now. Last year I was just happy and surprised to have my first pictures published in magazines... How would someone describe your photography style? Fragility, loneliness. And passion. What would be your dream shoot? The dream shoot ? Sounds like perfection. Pretty unrealistic. I never thought about one. Let’s say there is a dream undercover in every shoot. You may realize it or not... Who influenced you in your career? Chogyam Trungpa. Can you tell me more about the “Before Fashion” Series ? “Before Fashion” is like meditating for me. Shooting arrows aimlessly. I think the moment “before” is the moment I care for. Before means intensity for me. I recently shot a story with Milla Jovovich called 11:55. So 5 minutes before 12. There is a tension here. Danger and uncertainty. A question has been asked. The answer is not here yet. You are just alone in this open space. “Waiting for the man”, “Accidents will happen” etc..You know what I mean. So technically I invite a model to stand in front of me. No specific fashion, no hair, no make-up. And so...We dance. We experience the gap. Very simple. It feels like taking my first picture ever. A white wall. A fresh start. This is all I need. Before Fashion is also an attempt to speak about the roots of fashion. The underlying feminine energy of it. Early spring before summer. A tree extends its branches. Buds are ready to explode you know.... Fashion comes after that with all those leaves, colored flowers and everything... What do you like about Fashion? I Love Fake don’t you ? More seriously what is fascinating me the most is to hear the creators speaking, or see them sketching, all the poetry
156
of it and then you have all these anonymous people with their magical hands at work, spending hours and hours embroidering or assembling real pieces of art. There is so much elegance happening at this point which is the heart of Fashion. Unfortunately the poetry tends to get lost along the way. Too much greed and glitter interference I suppose. From that point of view Fashion is an explosive matter to work with. It can enhance your life or sometimes destroy it. A funny and dangerous game to play. What magazines or clients have you worked for? I like the letter V. My band’s name was “Venice”, I was in Vs magazine lately, Vogue...So Vmag should be next....Am I wrong ? Are you working on any new personal projects right now? I do a lot of meditation. With or without my camera. What music do you listen to? Led Zeppelin. Peter Gabriel. Pink Floyd. The Soundtrack Of Our Lives. One album I often play is also “The Lamb Lies Down On Broadway”. What are you most proud of until now? The rivers of tears I cried all along the way. What do your parents do? My mom is breezing a fresh air coming from the sea. My dad is the angel behind my shoulder Is there always a story behind your photos? When I feel the model is ready to act then I can invent a story on the go. But I mostly improvise. Trying to avoid any patterns. Basically you are always photographing a stranger. Somebody curiously standing on the other shore. A story in itself. Do you work alone or in a team? Alone is best. But when requested I have been lucky to work with very gentle people.
What inspires you? Love. Literature. Poetry. A good model. A white wall. Tell me something about your neighbourhood. I live in Tribeca. Very Bourgeois. But I feel more like a real aristocrat when I wander in the streets of Venice Italy. If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? I would repeat the whole trip I guess. Every up and down. The best and worst thing that could ever happen? The best is now. The worst would be... To believe the best is still to come. But there is still the worst of the worst which I couldn’t speak of in an interview. Who would you like to work with? I would be happy to work with you Jolijn. Hah, sounds good to me. Any future goals? I don’t have any particular goal. I mean you’re always missing the point somehow. There is no such thing as achievement unless you want to be dead. So I guess standing at the edge of any goal would be more my thing. Favorite quote? I cant get no satisfaction. What does hardcore mean to you? Hardcore... would mean maybe working hard to get to the core of things and realize there is nothing to grab in the end. Nothing to hold on to. The place is vacant.
Follow Eric’s work via: http://beforefashion.blogspot.com http://www.ericguillemain.com
157
I
FASHION
158
159
I
FASHION
160
161
I
ART
“I am fascinated by many things .. Now I am visualizing the ceramic penis of the film A Clockwork Orange.� 162
Raül Vázquez Multitalented young artist Raül Vázquez is a fashion designer, illustrator and works on visual marketing as well as a window dresser. At the age of 27 he already worked on many different projects with his major core drive: fashion and sex. -Interview Debbie wester
Why the interest in both illustrating and designing? “It’s in these two fields of art where I feel the most comfortable. and besides, I think they complement perfectly. Do you see yourself more as an illustrator or as a designer? “As more impulsive, I feel better when I’m illustrating. But the discharge of all the adrenaline towards a collection and fashion show is much more exciting and also appeals to me”. Where did you grow up and how was it like? “I grew up in Lleida, Catalonia, a small provincial capital that I love. Currently I live and work in Barcelona… I was constantly moving and had to come where the ‘things are happening’, which was Barcelona. As usual, the centre attracts people’s ambitions and goals”. How did you start your career? “I started when I wanted to become a fashion designer. Understanding art in it’s means of expression is necessary for me. So I began to start doing fashion in order to feel satisfied. What I mean is that designing was very useful to me towards heading new goals”. Where do you find inspiration? “I am inspired by fashion, love and sexual desire. My theme are all the feelings , inner desires and passions that I find in myself which I analyze when I am working. Any projects or exhibitions you’re doing now ? “I am about to start my own personal website and that’s quite a project.” Sex for me is.. “...an inner desire, uncontrollable, constant, vital and necessary. That not only sex inspires me but an entire personal world, generous and ethereal. Not as simple as physical action,
but of great complexity that attracts me to understand”. Favorite piece of art? “I feel fascinated by many, but for a while I am visualizing the ceramic penis of the film ‘a Clockwork Orange’ by Stanley Kubrick. It’s shape is perfectly rounded and attractive, both as statues of the goddesses of fertility of the prehistoric tribes round and perfect, which every time I understand more”. Any great artist we need to know about? “I admire the classics such as Elsa Schiaparelli and my work in the future, like 20 years for example, hahah”. Future plans or projects? “Getting ready for multimedia design. I really want to bring life to my illustrations and embody them”. If you weren’t a fashiondesigner, what would you be? “I would be another creative person, for example a cook. I enjoy the dance in the kitchen and food”. Who would you like to work with (in the future)? “I haven’t thought about lately but when I was student I would have liked to work with Julie Verhoeven and Yohi Yamamoto”. If you could be a famous personality, who would you like to be and why? “I would be a mixture of Taxi Driver Travis and Mickey Mouse in an adventure movie X”. Dream project? “A happy world in a fancy sexual dream, jeje :-). With my girlfriend”. What are your future goals? “Not to die without a trace....” 163
I
ART
164
165
I
FASHION
wicked garden
Photogr
aphy sarah
166
maurer
Styling
philipp
junker
at Style Council
 - This Page: Samantha wears blue printed chiffondress
and embroidered vest by 3.1 PHILIP LIM by Fidelio, brown leather eye-mask PAUL SEVILLE by Lovers lane - Opposite Page: brown leather dog mask FLEET ILYA by Lovers lane, black jersey jacket RICK OWENS by Boutique Roma 167
 - This Page: Samantha wears silver headband by
ANN
DEMEULEMEESTER
by Boutique
Roma - Opposite Page: black jacket, MARTIN MAR-
GIELA by Boutique Roma, wooden printed jersey leggings ALEXANDER MC QUEEN, brown diamond body piece FLEET ILYA by Lovers lane, black ankle-platforms, RICK OWENS by Boutique Roma 168
169
I
FASHION
Samantha wears black printed dress ALEXANDER
MC
QUEEN,
black jersey leggings AMERICAN APPAREL, brown leather corset PAUL 170 Lovers lane SEVILLE
171
I
FASHION
Samantha wears black jersey swimsuit AGENT
PROVOCATEUR,
silver
leather corset FLEET ILYA by Lovers Lane, black-silver booties ALEXANDER MC QUEEN 172
173
174
- This Page: black minidress RICK OWENS by
Boutique Roma, black lamb nappa leater-vest MATTHEWWILLIAMSON for H&M, printed jersey leggings and black-silver booties, ALEXANDER MC QUEEN, silver high-cuffs FLEET ILYA by Lovers lane - Opposite Page: black jersey bodysui ALEXANDER MC QUEEN. silver
leather neck-colar FLEET ILYA by Lovers lane, silver headband ANN DEMEULEMEESTER by Boutique Roma - Credits: Hair tanya koch at B4, Make-up nicola fischer at Style Council, Model sa-
mantha rayner at Nathalie, Bondage Artist luisa karrer
175
I
THE END
STOCKISTS www.americanapparel.net www.begeer&blaak.nl spijkers&spijkers www.creampr.nl Individuals N贸n by Kim Sigi Gestuz www.dutchfashionfoundation.com Heren van Koster Linda Valkeman www.gan-baroo.com Claes Iversen Xh Sa Avalon by Blue Blood www.neveronwednesday.net Claudia Strater by spijkers&spijkers Der Kommissar Mattijs Wolford www.lauradols.nl www.spicepr.nl Copy of an imitation Joline Jolink Hugo by Hugo Boss www.sprmkt.nl Maison Martin Margiela www.so-pr.nl Mada van Gaans www.shoebaloo.com Dior
176
- Photo HASISI PARK
NEXT ISSUE:
ABSURDISM
177
www.ilovefakemagazine.com
178