Passion for Wine and Life
Cover Story
Fairy in the golden tree 黃金樹上的白仙子
Cru Panel Tasting
The “White” Christmas 「白色」聖誕
2013 DEC
HK$38
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TABLE OF CONTENTS #036 December 2013 The Gold Christmas Edition
Champagne
香檳
‧
008
006 Cru Speech
006 Thoughts of Vintage Champagne 老香檳的點滴思緒
Cru Favourites
012
016
Cru X’mas Special
020
Cru Cover Story
Cru Panel Tasting
012 Fairy in the golden tree 黃金樹上的白仙子
020 “White” Christmas 「白色」聖誕
The Red Christmas Edition
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Letters from the Editor 金色氣泡 今期《釀 ·生活》特別分為Red Edition及Gold Edition。因為兩本的 主題都有點不同，這本金裝當然是關於金色的氣泡酒釀，香檳。多年 來對香檳已是一種accquired taste，很多朋友初嚐香檳時，都會有不 太好的印象，尤其是這樣高酸度的酒釀對我們中國人來說並不會太習 慣，但是在各大香檳莊的強力市場推廣攻勢後，大家對香檳的印象是 一種時尚、潮流文化、生活品味。但到近年，大家對香檳的認識深 了，加上市面上有不少精心釀造的優秀香檳，好些酒迷對香檳也有一 定的素求。就好像以前的香檳都是甜的，為的是蓋過不完美的品質， 讓人更易接受。也好像以前沒有人會讓香檳陳年，更不要想像有什麼
Late Disgorgement等等的想法。我們這次的Panel Tasting以白釀白來 作為主題，就是要仔細探究到底現今香檳的方向，或是跟一般人的想 法有何區別。 說到喝香檳，大家都愛用細長的香檳杯，但其實上至香檳莊主，下至 一些酒友、朋友，都喜歡用白酒杯或酒莊設計的專用香檳杯。因為細 長的香檳杯，唯一好處是能讓你觀賞美妙的氣泡，但卻完全不能發揮 香檳應有的香氣，我們實在要推薦大家轉用其他款式的酒杯喝香檳。 你絕對會發現家中酒窖那瓶頂級香檳能夠散發不同的超然魅力。忘記 氣泡，就當她們是華麗的白葡萄酒般享用，就算拿出勃艮第大杯子來 喝也不是什麼奇怪的方法。快點丟掉你的細長香檳杯吧。
Eddie Chui Editorial Director eddie@cru-magazine.com
Editorial Director : Eddie Chui
Publisher : Cru Media Limited
Tasting Editor : Francois Luck
Address : 22&23/F, Fung Sang Trading Building, 54
Assistant Editor : Nevin Yip
Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong
Creative Director : Jenkin Ma
Tel : (852) 3568 9100
Designer : Blue Sin
Fax : (852) 3568 9101
Photographer : Alvin Luk, Henry CK
E-mail : info@cru-magazine.com
Advisor : Asif Bajwa, Dennis Yong
Website : www.cru-magazine.com
Business Director : Nicholas Siu
Facebook Fan Page : www.facebook.com/cru.magazine
Marketing Manager : Carol Chung Assistant Manager : Nicola Tsui
Printer : KiLi Printing & Production Co. (852) 3595 0196
Senior Marketing Executive : Jan Lau
All rights reserved 版權所有，翻印必究
ISSN 2221016-4
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Cru SPEECH Chinese Text : Grace Zheng 小旗袍 Translation : Ian Wong
Grace Zheng Grace is an experienced wine educator in Mainland China who teaches the WSET Level 3. As well as freelancing for some China’s wine magazines like Hurun Report, China Wine News, Vivi, and Vinovogue. Grace is also an active and popular blogger on WeiBo. 鄭瑋菡Grace是在中國大陸教授WSET第三級別的資深導師。她亦有在一些內地葡萄酒雜誌 如《胡潤百富》、《華夏酒報》、《酒典》和《酒尚》等撰寫文章。Grace亦是新浪微博「 小旗袍的美味人生」的博主。
Thoughts
老香檳的點滴思緒
of Vintage Champagne
After several days of traveling occasionally an element of homesickness
連續數日的出差偶爾會多幾分思鄉的哀愁，不經意間遇到了失散多年的大
seeps in, and inadvertently we meet a lot of old friends like a long-lost
學同窗，感謝新浪微博這個好東西，總在不經意間給我許多新朋友，又讓
college classmate. Thank god for Sina Weibo, because again I always
我重逢許多老朋友。
manage to find new friends and meet old ones again. 這輪出差完回上海的時候就能遇到我的老同學了，各種陰差陽錯轉眼多年
During a recent round trip to Shanghai where I met up with some old
沒有遇到了，可是對方給我的記憶彷彿昨天一般，只是流淌的歲月裡沉澱
friends and we reminisced about times gone by, time seemed to gently
了許多溫存的東西，好像我鍾愛的老香檳。
pass us by without too much thought. It settled in like an old vintage Champagne, a more mature and gentle kind of memory.
思緒又似乎扯得遠了一些，其實喝了一些老年份的香檳後，特別是有幾位 很不錯的酒友從原來對香檳有絲絲恐懼到逐漸體味其曼妙的轉變，越發覺
It seems a lot of these thoughts came after we enjoyed some some
得自己可以言之成理地論證一番：無論是客觀的香氣口感還是主觀的思緒
old Champagne together, especially those who had a slight fear of
和意念。
champagnes gracefully, gradually accept that and develop their own opinions and thoughts about the world—of course again just like how
比起那些大牌的酒評人或者著名的侍酒師們，我所謂的老香檳似乎還是年
an old Champagne has distinctive aromas and tastes!
輕的，大多數都集中在八十年代的。 81 年的 Henriot ， 82 的 Krug ， 85 的
The Champagnes we enjoyed that night were old by our standards,
在市面上並不是唾手可得的香檳，暫且稱為“老年份”吧。
Dom Perignon Rosé，88的Dom Perignon就說說這幾款的體驗吧。畢竟 although they surely aren’t that old when they come to the famous wine critics or sommeliers. Most of our Champagnes were from the
了解一番後，發現多數不習慣香檳的人有兩個理由：第一，他們不習慣香
80’s, such as an ‘81 Henriot, an ‘82 Krug, an ‘85 Dom Perignon Rosé,
檳的酵母氣味；第二，無福消受香檳的凌冽酸度。老年份的香檳則很好的
and an ‘88 Dom Perignon. Since they aren’t easily available in the
規避了這兩點，通常我喝到的 80 年的香檳裡，蜂蜜，堅果，奶油太妃糖，
market nowadays I guess they can genuinely be considered vintage!
焦糖為主導，因為氣泡已經退卻了年輕時候劇烈升騰的鼎沸感，於是香氣 悠然自得地探入鼻尖，隨著時間推移慢慢綻放舒展；口感的酸度和果味在
I learned that for some people do not get used to old Champagne. First
陳年後更表現出彼此的交融，年輕時候各顯其能的元素已經演化出泰然自
of all, old Champagne has a very powerful nose of yeast; secondly,
若的平衡感，互不爭鋒，把每一個細節施展開來。
the acidity is often surprising. Honey, nuts, butter, toffee, and caramel are all common traits of vintage Champagne, and when the lively
每一款酒都有一個完美的演變過程，我都銘記在心： 1981 的 Henriot 從海
bubble of youth have subsided, the fruit and acidity are all that remain.
外市場找回來後在我的酒櫃裡睡了兩年。多數人不認為一般無年份香檳有
Mature Champagnes with good balance of these characteristics can
超過三年的陳年可能，但只要儲存恰當其實是絕對不成問題。那 Henriot 的
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be beautiful. Even without the distraction of bubbles, the wine is
Old Champagne always gives me these thoughts when I try them,
harmonious and unperturbed.
which is why when I realized I would see my old friends when getting back to Shanghai, it seemed only natural to bring them something
Each wine needs to have a perfect provenance. For example, the
vintage from our time of youth.
‘81 Henriot was sleeping peacefully in an overseas cellar for years, and I just recently got it back. Champagnes that are fairly priced are
表現讓人很滿意。蜂蜜和堅果香氣主導整個品鑑的流程，口感的細膩度是
often believed not able to age more than 3 years, such as your typical
最深刻的印象； 1982 的 Krug 和一位年長的朋友一起品鑑，對方並不是香
NV blend. But with good storage, it is easily possible, although this
檳迷，之前也沒有機會遇到老年份的香檳，那接近棗子顏色的酒色得到了
doesn’t mean all Champagnes can last forever. Aromas of honey
對方的讚許，桂圓茶、紅棗香氣的感受讓這款酒充滿了親和力，年輕時壯
and nuts dominated the Henriot, and it was very sophisticated. The
實的酒體在 31 年後換來的是圓潤與豐腴； 1985 的 Dom Perignon Rosé 和
Krug was 31 years old, but a friend of ours who wasn’t a wine lover
1988 的 Dom Perignon 的共同之處是倒入杯中直到飲完過程中細緻綿延的
compared the lovely colour to tea, with longan and jujube aromas. It
變化，微微氧化的菠蘿香氣起始，蜂蜜、焦糖、杏脯、太妃糖……口感上
was a strong and sturdy wine, and now it is rounded and plump, but
桃紅更多一份結構的張力，白則多一份細膩的均勻。
still beautiful. Both the Dom Perignons had oxidized a little bit, but had honey, caramel, apricot preserves, and toffee on the nose with great
這些僅僅是主觀描述老香檳所帶來的印象，或許我太容易應酒不醉人人自
structure still.
醉的說法，賦予老香檳一些特殊的感染力和氣氛後，於是從感官的喜愛到 了一份情誼上不可擱淺的纏綿。終其原因，是因為老香檳裡的包容力吧。
These are just some subjective descriptions of old Champagne, and hopefully they won’t scare people away. Old Champagne creates
如今回憶起來，年前我也和那位同窗好友明爭暗鬥一番，那是因為我們都
atmosphere and it has a special appeal, it is like a long lasting
還算是很上進的好孩子，兩個在不同學校任職的年輕女教師間特殊的友情
friendship.
有時會像一款年輕的香檳那樣帶著點衝勁吧，我或許像那份盛氣凌人的酸 度，她或許是青澀的果味……多年後相遇，時光的流逝把這些激烈的因素
I recall that years ago when we were still in school, a friend and I
都轉化為最美好的包容力，所有翻騰過的不完美都已經消失在時間的軌道
compared our personalities to a young Champagne. I was too
裡，留下的是貼切，完整，和耐人尋味。
domineering like the vivacious acidity that marks Champagne, and she was naïve like unripe fruit. After many years without contact, we have
於是，當老香檳在觀感的愉悅之後又帶給我這些思緒，我想我是不得不
both transformed, and all our imperfections slowly mellowed out with
承認自己的無以自拔吧。何不，回上海後，約上最好的酒友帶上我的老同
the trail of time, until all that is left is a well-rounded human being.
學，開一瓶老香檳呢？
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CRU FAVOURITES Cloudy Bay Pelorus Brut NV
Warramate Pinot Noir 2011
Armit Wines // 3796 7192 www.sparr.fr
MHD HK // 2976 1888 www.cloudybay.co.nz
Kerry Wines // 2169 7700 www.warramatewines.com.au
$160
$250
$1,588
Domaine Charles Sparr Crémant d’Alsace NV
When you think that champagnes are too
Cloudy Bay is famous for its Sauvignon Blanc
Yarra Valley has been one of the most
expensive but sometimes when you really
and Te Koko, which is one of our favourite
exciting region for Australian Pinot Noir. This
want some bubbles from France, you may
NZ wines. Besides the improving pinot noirs
one is coming from the north facing slopes
consider Crémant d’Alsace. It is made in
from Marlborough and new pinot from Central
of the Warramate Ranges. Interestingly, the
the same way of champagne but was made
Otago, they are also making small amount of
vineyards are locating uphills of the famous
in Alsace. In this Charles Sparr cuvée, only
sparkling wine. We tried this Brut a few years
Yarra Yering vineyards. It ages in 100% new
Chardonnay is used that you can consider it as
ago in New Zealand and it is now available
French oak for 18 months, but with the great
an blanc de blancs. The ageing was not that
in Hong Kong. This sparkling is actually
fruit coming from the vineyards, it shows
long, but it is elegant with good acidity and
made in traditional champagne method
generous fruit on the palate and bouquet,
fine bubbles. For half the price of any basic
involving secondary fermentation. Delicate
followed by loads of spices and dried fruit. It
champagne, it is value for money for sure.
and elegant, hope to see the other sparklings
welcomes you now but will continue to age
from them especially the Rosé.
for about 10 years.
當你想喝一瓶來自法國的氣泡酒時，但又覺得 香檳太昂貴的時候，不妨考慮一下 Crémant
Cloudy Bay 除了最出名的Sauvignon Blanc 白
Yarra Valley 是澳洲當中最熱門的 Pinot Noir 產
d’Alsace 。她跟香檳一樣是以傳統方法釀造，
葡萄酒及我們最愛之一的Te Koko酒款外。他們
區之一。這瓶酒釀的葡萄園位於 Warramate
但只能以原產地命名。這瓶Charles Sparr 的酒
近年Marlborough及Central Otago的Pinot也正
Ranges 向北的山坡上。非常有趣地，她正是在
釀，同樣是以香檳常見的 Chardonnay 葡萄釀
不斷進步。原來他們還生產小量的氣泡酒。這美
大名鼎鼎的Yarra Yering 葡萄園之上。在100%
造，你可以當她是一瓶平價版的白釀白香檳。陳
味的酒釀終於在香港正式發售。以香檳傳統方法
的全新橡木桶陳年 18 個月。但豐富的果香並沒
年的時間較短，但仍不失優雅，酸度平衡，氣泡
釀造的這款酒釀美味優雅，很期待另一款產量更
有讓她失去平衡，全靠由優秀葡萄園所採收的葡
細緻。以香檳一半的價錢，絕對是超值之選。
少的Rosé酒款能早日於香港發售。
萄，豐富而複雜的香氣，帶著香料及乾果的味 道。現在喝當然是美味可口，不過放個十年八載 肯定會更有趣。
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Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvée Brut
Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay 2012
Michele Chiarlo Barolo Riserva Triumviratum 2004
Altaya Wines Ltd. // 2523 1945 www.bellavistawine.it
Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 www.vassefelix.com.au
The Wine Gallery by ASC Fine WInes 2526 2020 // www.michelechiarlo.it
$289
$498 ( 2011 vintage )
$799
For world class sparkling wine, besides
Because
climate
Michele Chiarlo is one of the top producers
champagne from France, we also have
character, Margaret River region is not only
of
the
very
special
in Piedmont. They have a solid collection of
Franciacorta from Italy. It is made in a similar
growing lovely Cabernet Sauvignon, but also
Barolo from different Crus. This very special
way like champagne and using the same
Chardonnay. We are lucky to have a preview
Riserva is different from the single vineyard
grape varieties. Bellavista is a very good
of this new release of top Chardonnay. It is
cuvée. The word Triumviratum means the
example of top Franciacorta producers. This
still young, rich and being oak dominating,
union of the three kings. That means the
NV cuvée has 100 base wines fermented in
but the refined acidity means that it will age
grapes of this great riserva wine is coming
oak barrels which are coming from different
very well. On the other the 2011 vintage
from three greatest Crus of Barolo. 2004 is
plot of the vineyards, besides, 6 to 9 reserve
shows much more generosity in fruit, nice
a great vintage for Barolo and after almost
wines are used in the blending. It is made
acidity and balance, finish well.
10 years it shows a perfect balance and
with a lower acidity than champagne and
elegance that a classic Barolo should have,
more generous in fruitiness. Now you know
因為特別的氣候待點， Margaret River 是少數
that Italy has some decent bubbles besides
能同時培育出優良的 Cabernet Sauvignon 及
affordable Prosecco.
instead of the barrique driven modern style.
Chardonnay的。我們有幸能先睹為快地品嚐這
Michele Chiarlo是Piedmont最具實力的酒莊之
最新的年份酒釀。她仍然年輕，豐厚，橡木桶主
一。她們擁有一系列的 Barolo ，來自不同的葡
要數世上最好的氣泡酒，除了法國的香檳，還
導著味道，但由於擁有細緻的酸度，將會有不錯
萄園。這瓶Riserva 特別的地方是由三片不同的
有意大利的 Franciacorta 。跟香檳的釀造方法
的陳年潛力。同時品嚐的2011 年酒款，展現出
葡萄園混釀而成，不是一般常見的單一葡萄園
相似，同樣是瓶內進行二次發酵。用的也是相
開放的果香，良好的酸度及平衡，收結悠長。
酒釀。 Triumviratum 是三位君王聯合起來的意
同的品種。這瓶Bellavista 絕對是最具代表性的
思。 2004 年被譽為偉大的年份，經過差不多十
Franciacorta之一。這瓶NV內有來自100款以橡
年的醞釀，這瓶王者展現出完美的平衡及優雅，
木桶釀造，來自不同葡萄園區塊的基酒，及六至
是經典型的Barolo代表，不是近年以小型法國橡
九個年份的Reserve Wines。入口比香檳酸度低
木桶主導的現代派可比。
一點、果香也開放一點。意大利不只有大眾化的
Prosecco，也有這樣的精品氣泡酒。
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CRU FAVOURITES Bishops Head Pinot Noir 2011
Château Peyrabon 2010
Armit Wines // 3796 7192 www.gusbourne.com
Wellspring Wines Co. Ltd. // 2305 0823 www.bishopshead.co.nz
Millésima // www.millesima.fr www.chateau-peyrabon.fr
$287
$220
$146
Gusbourne Estate “Blanc de Blancs” 2008
The English sparkling wines are getting
If we were asked 10 years ago about
This Cru Bourgeois in the Haut-Médoc has
attention by wine lovers recently. They are
comments on pinots from New Zealand, it
a vineyard consists mainly of sandy gravel
not to replicate the champagne style, but to
would be negative. But in recent years, we
on clay subsoil, which are planted with vines
express their terroir at one of the north most
are seeing a lot more outstanding pinots from
of 23 years old on average. The vines are
wine making region. They are also making
New Zealand. Besides the very boutique
composed of 71.5% Cabernet Sauvignon,
wines in traditional method, and aged for at
and sought after region of Central Otago,
25% Merlot and 3.5% Petit Verdot. The
least 22 months. The result is much better
the Marlborough is making nice pinots now.
quality of their wine progress in recent years
than what we expected. This blanc de
And then we have Bishops Head estate,
under the ownership of Millésima. The 2010
blancs shows some mature champagne-like
coming from the Waipara Valley, which are
vintage is glorious with both concentration
character which may get attention to those
making exceptional pinots and whites such
and elegance and as tasted during the
who used to drink light sparklings.
as Riesling and Pinot Gris. This pinot is a very
Vinexpo earlier this year, this is a very good
good example of the new wave of great New
example as one of the modern Cru Bourgeois
Zealand wines.
at their best.
terroir最好的一面，因此功藝一絲不苟。他們以
在十年前，如果問我們關於新西蘭 Pinot Noir
這 中 產 酒 莊 （ Cru Bourgeois ） 位 於 Haut-
傳統的香檳方法釀造，並讓葡萄酒在瓶內陳年
葡萄酒的意見，我們並不會特別推薦。在近
Médoc 區，擁有的葡萄園中樹齡約為 23 年，
22 個月才除渣。確實為我們帶來不少驚喜。這
年，卻開始有不少優秀的新西蘭 Pinot ，例如
泥土主要是沙質礫石表土加上下層的黏土。
款白釀白展現出成熟香檳所有的個性，對於較常
某 些 Central Otago 的 精 品 酒 釀 。 但 其 實 傳
當中有 71.5% Cabernet Sauvignon 、 25%
喝清爽型氣泡酒的酒迷將會別有一番風味。
統的 Marlborough 產區也開始釀造出優質的
Merlot及3.5% Petit Verdot。在Millésima購入
Pinot。Bishops Head酒莊位於Waipara Valley，
此酒莊後，新莊主的投入使近年的酒質不斷進
來自英倫的氣泡酒正帶起不少酒迷的好奇。他 們不是要模仿香檳的貴氣，而是要展現出當地
同時釀造美味的 Riesling 及 Pinot Gris 。他們的
步。 2010 年絕對是偉大的年份，帶來了濃郁的
Pinot正好代表著新西蘭葡萄酒的新浪潮。
果香及優雅的收結。我們早前在 Vinexpo 嚐過 此酒，是現代風格的優秀 Cru Bourgeois 代表 之一。
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011
Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray La Caulée d’Argent 2010
Domaine Olivier Guyot Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2011
Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray La Caulée d’Argent 2011
LSWine Group // 2618 9907 www.bourillon.com
Winebeast // 2804 1318 www.domaineguyot.fr
Northeast Wines & Spirits Ltd. // 2573 5733 www.twopaddocks.com
$228
$260
$208
We are always complaining there is too
Many people are misled by the classification
A great gift from Otago in New Zealand, this
little wine from Loire Valley of France in HK.
of Bourgogne Pinot Noir and think they are
has great strength of pinot character. Just
LSWine is one of the more active importers
just cheap wines not as good as the village
when there is a simplicity to it, new levels
of Loire Wine. Like this dry Vouvray, which is
wines. Actually it is just the classification of
appear. The nose is full of raspberries, and
made with Chenin Blanc, is an excellent white
the location of vineyards. There are many of
then before you can spell ‘cordial’ on come
wine with great floral character that suits the
the outstanding vineyards at the Bourgogne
the violets and hints of oak. The mouth feel
Asian palate and food. This delicate wine is
appellation, with some old vines of great
works off a solid base of gentle tannins
medium light body, with intense floral nose,
quality. Like this Bourgogne Pinot Noir
and then come the berries, tobacco, white
on the palate it has rich fruity notes of pear,
from Domaine Olivier Guyot, which is so
pepper, leather all the way to the long ending.
lychee, green apple. Long after taste with a
outstanding in quality that it surpass many
Featured length, Oscar quality. Owner and
stunning acidity. Good pairing with seafood
village wine. With that price it is the best pick
actor Sam Neill is dedicated to protect the
fried rice and light curry coconut sauce.
for a wine to go with your favourite meals.
environment with sustainable viticulture and
我們常投訴香港太少法國 Loire Valley 的葡萄
很多人誤會勃艮第的 Bourgogne Pinot Noir 必
酒。 LSWine 是當中比較活躍的 Loire 進口商。
定是不起眼的普通酒款，不會比得上村莊酒。
像這瓶 Vouvray 的不甜白葡萄酒，是以 Chenin
但其實那分級只是關係到葡萄園的位置。就算
Pinot 。看上去好像有點簡單，但實在是充滿驚
Blanc釀造，帶美麗的花香，而且非常適合亞洲
在 Bourgogne 法定產區，也有少數優秀的葡萄
喜。充滿覆盆子的香氣，然後是陣陣紫羅蘭及橡
人的口味及食物。酒體中等，帶豐富的花香，入
園，擁有美妙的老樹葡萄藤。就好像 Domaine
木的氣息。入口帶漿果、煙草、白胡椒及皮革的
口帶濃郁的果香如白梨、荔枝及青蘋果的味道，
Olivier Guyot所釀造的Bourgogne Pinot Noir，
氣息，單寧結構扎實而順滑。收結悠長而美味。
收結悠長，帶良好的酸度。最適合用來佐餐，配
絕對不比好些村莊級數的酒釀差，在蒙瓶品試
莊主兼演員Sam Neill 對環保十分注重，實行可
以海鮮炒飯及較淡的咖喱類食物。
時，甚至比村酒更出色，最好用來作日常佐餐酒
持續的耕作及釀酒，希望在釀造美酒之餘，也為
去享用。
保護環境盡一分力。
winemaking.
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在 新 西 蘭 Central Otago 其 中 一 瓶 最 優 秀 的
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Cover Story
Fairy in the golden tree 黃金樹上的白仙子
English Text : Damien Waite // Translation : Nevin Yip // Image : Pernod-Ricard
Perrier-Jouët launched the Belle Époque 2006 at an exclusive event earlier this month, where the maison’s seventh cellar master, Mr Hervé Deschamps introduced the vintage to leading tastemakers, luminaries and connoisseurs. Belle Époque 是 Perrier-Jouët系列中以卓越，純淨和美感揉合見稱的代表之作，最新的 2006年份香檳 經已推出，在官方發佈會中，由 Perrier-Jouët第七任首席釀酒師 Mr. Hervé Deschamps為大家介紹這款 獨特的香檳。
The Belle Époque 2006 represents the perfect balance of the vintage and Perrier-Jouët house style. With 50% chardonnay in the blend, this exquisite vintage provides freshness coupled with floral notes, originating from the great grand crus of Champagne including Cramant, Avize, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger, Oger, fused with pinot noir from the grand crus of Mailly, Aÿ, Ambonnay and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ which adds richness and generosity to the palate. Finally, the Belle Époque is highlighted with a little pinot meunier as a complement to the full roundness in taste. Now recognized as one of the great winemakers of the Champagne region, Hervé Deschamps joined the prestigious house in 1983. Within 10 years he became the cellar master and has since overseen the production of the entire Perrier-Jouët range, including the non-vintage Grand Brut and Blason Rosé as well as the legendary Belle Époque vintage range. Ensuring clarity and pureness of each champagne, Deschamps builds the foundations of the blend from chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier grapes, then with great artistry, the master blends using great precision, skill and intuition to create the perfect balance. Perrier-Jouët carefully stores their bottles under a maze of tunnels 10 metres beneath the Avenue de Champagne, where over 10 kilometres of pathways are filled with maturing vintages and cuvees of PerrierJouët bubbles. The depth and earth provide natural refrigeration, at an optimal 11 degrees centigrade to ensure quality conditions. Amongst the thousands of bottles, also remain two of the oldest vintages, the Belle Époque 1825. Belle Époque 2006展現著Perrier-Jouët的風格及年份特色的平衡。當中50﹪ Chardonnay為Belle Époque 2006帶來清爽的鮮美及花香，這全是源於來自Cramant、Avize、Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger及Oger等特級田的優秀 葡萄；至於來自特級田Mailly、Aÿ、Ambonnay及Mareuil-sur-Aÿ的Pinot Noir則帶來豐厚及充實的味道。而少 量的Pinot Meunier就給予Belle Époque增添圓潤的口感。 Mr. Hervé Deschamps於1983年加入Perrier-Jouët這一個著名品牌，並且在短短十年內成為其首席釀酒 師，在香檳界響負盛名。不論是無年份的Grand Brut，或者是Blason Rosé甚至是旗下頂級的Belle Époque 或Belle Époque Rosé，均由Mr. Hervé Deschamps全程監督。為了達致最理想的品質，所有葡萄例如 Chardonnay、Pinot Noir及Pinot Meunier等都會經過精挑細選後才進行釀造的工序。最後經過Hervé精心的調 配，像藝術家般完成這款美妙、細緻的酒釀。 剛剛調配好的Belle Époque都會在地底下10米深的酒窖內陳放，然後再推出市面。這地下酒窖具有天然的保溫 功能，使溫度維持在穩定的攝氏11度，好讓在連綿十公里兩旁的「香檳大道」能夠慢慢成熟。而酒窖中最老 的香檳，是1825年的年份香檳，這樣珍貴的，僅僅只有兩瓶而已……
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Cover Story
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Cover Story
The Enchanting Tree 魔法樹 In 1846 Perrier-Jouët declared that there would be no further sweetening of its
自1846年，Perrier-Jouët早已公佈旗下的香檳將不會額外進行補糖
champagne, in order to satisfy the demand for dry champagne in London – the
工序，原因是為了要迎合當時最大的香檳市場倫敦的口味。其實它
strongest market for champagne at that time. It became one of the first of the
早在摩洛哥親王王妃葛莉絲．凱莉（Grace Kelly）宣佈她最愛的
‘brut’ champagnes and gained its long-held place at the top of champagne
香檳品牌是Perrier-Jouët之前，早已在香檳界Brut（不甜）的類型
hierarchy. Long before Princess Grace of Monaco declared Perrier-Jouët to be
中，有著崇高的地位。當Perrier-Jouët Brut在世界各地都廣受歡迎
her favourite champagne, fame had already been stamped upon the label. It
時，Belle Époque就像魔法樹的金色枝椏，正慢慢俘虜一眾香檳愛
became one of the first ‘Brut’ champagnes and has since held its place at the
好者的心。
top-end of the champagne hierarchy. While the Brut by Perrier-Jouët is gaining glory around the world, Belle Époque is like branch extending from the enchanting
精緻的藝術和優雅的香檳之結合，早已成為傳統。而Perrier-Jouët
tree that shines brilliantly, right into the heart of every champagne lover.
亦秉乘這個傳統，多年來與各個派別及具創新意念的藝術家攜手 合作。今年，Perrier-Jouët請來荷蘭藝術家Tord Boontje為他們
Artistic beauty and the Art Nouveau spirit have been intertwined with Perrier-
設計出The Enchanting Tree（魔法樹）。The Enchanting Tree
Jouët’s history and brand personality from the outset - with this tradition enduring
這件雕塑除了金光閃閃引人注目外，亦備有實用性，它金色的枝
in Hong Kong. Earlier this year, the house brought a commission artwork, “The
椏可以承托著香檳酒杯，Tord Boontje更現身說法，解釋設計的概
Enchanting Tree” by Tord Boontje to the city. The beautiful sculpture combines
念：「我希望造出一件能夠感動人心、啟發夢想的作品。而這，更
both aesthetics and practicality with its golden arms daintily supporting a cloud
是一件同時具有實用性和美感的藝術品。」
of champagne flutes. Tord said, “I wanted to create a functional object that evokes emotions and dreams. Here, utility is beautiful and beauty has utility”.
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Cover Story
015
The Artist, Tord Boontje, with ‘The Enchanting Tree’.
Mr. Hervé Deschamps
Here and Now and Hong Kong 此時此刻 After the resounding success of the 2004 vintage, the launch of the Belle Époque
2004年的Belle Époque在推出後一直備受好評。在三藩市國際葡
2006 has been eargerly awaited. The preceeding vintage was awarded the prestigious
萄酒大賽中得到金獎的殊榮。她的細緻，內斂而經典的風味受
Gold Medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition, in recognition of
到高度的評價，大家都熱切期待新年份Belle Époque 2006的推
the fine, subtle yet epic flavours and there were certainly high expectations for the
出。在此殊榮後，2004年份的Belle Époque便被廣大愛好者一掃
Belle Époque 2006, which were fulfilled with grace. The 2006 vintage continues in the
而空，可見其魅力所在。至於在Belle Époque 2006中，將保持
tradition of fine and elegant complexities with enchanting floral notes, to be enjoyed
一貫優秀，細緻優雅郤不失複雜性的風格。至於那兩瓶珍貴的
for generations to come. And what of the two remaining bottles of the 1825 vintage?
1825年久藏，Mr. Deschamps說他不會飲用，而是會把這兩珍寶
Mr. Deschamps stated that he will leave this rarity “for the next generation.”
留給下一代……
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016 018
Cru Christmas
Christmas with Langham Place Hotel
Christmas joy is coming to town! The Langham Place’ s The Backyard,
The Place 聖誕盛宴迎佳節
The Place and Portal–Work & Play will present you a series of Christmas
自助餐廳The Place呈獻超過80多款美食的聖誕盛宴，包括現場即切威靈頓
fine feast.
牛肉及西班牙巴斯克火腿、聖誕火雞及源源不絕的即煎法國鵝肝。(價錢由小 童港幣198至468及成人由港幣288至698不等)
The Place Buffet restaurant provides you more than 80 delicacies, including Wel-
The Backyard聖誕「BBB」燒遙樂自助餐
lington beef, Spanish Basque ham, Christmas turkey and fried goose
露天消閒熱點The Backyard的聖誕「燒」遙樂自助餐首次以燒烤美食配上精
liver. (Priced from $198 to $468 for children; $288 to $698 for adults)
製啤酒及Brezza Rosso紅酒，獻上色香味俱全的難忘聖誕夜。（價錢由港幣
538至588不等） The Backyard Barbeque Buffet The Backyard is an outdoor leisure spot. It provides you with barbeque
Portal–Work & Play 品味自助盛宴
buffet with special beer and Brezza Rosso wine, giving you a memorable
時尚的Portal–Work & Play 首度推出品味聖誕自助盛宴，提供即開新鮮生
Christmas night. (Priced from $538 to $588)
蠔、即切西班牙黑毛豬火腿、蜜汁烤火腿、威靈頓牛肉及鮮嫩多汁的烤火 雞。每位客人更可享用一隻原隻即製的波士頓龍蝦。
Portal–Work & Play Portal- Work & Play is the first time that presents Christmas buffet feast. Serving you with fresh oysters, Spanish Basque ham, honey roasted
Langham Place Hotel
ham, Wellington beef and juicy roasted turkey. Also, every customer can
Address： Langham Place Hotel Hong Kong,
enjoy one Boston lobster.
555 Shanghai Street, Mong Kok 地址：旺角上海街555號香港旺角朗豪酒店
聖誕將至，香港旺角朗豪酒店的 The Backyard 、 The Place 、及 Portal–
Tel：(852) 3552 3028
Work & Play將呈獻一系列聖誕傳統與創新俱備的美食，共慶佳節。
email：lphkg.restaurants@langhamhotels.com
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Cru Christmas
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Fine dine and view in Messina To celebrate Christmas and the forthcoming year, Messina, a renowned and recommended by Michelin Italian restaurant will provide a fine set of menu for diners. With wonderful sea view and decent food, sure you will enjoy it. The Christmas menu starts from 20th Dec to 30th Dec, serving a special Sicily style dining. New year menu starts from 31st Dec to 5th Jan, all are creative pieces from chief chef Francesco Greco. 為慶祝聖誕並迎接新年度來臨，K.O. Dining Group旗下 獲獎無數兼米芝蓮推介的意大利餐廳Messina，特別推出3 款精緻菜譜迎饕客，實行以美食配合海景為佳節贈慶。聖 誕菜譜由 12 月 20 至 30 日供應，以一系列精選西西里招牌 菜作招徠。新年菜譜的供應期為 12 月 31 日至 2014 年 1 月 5 日，是行政 總廚Francesco Greco的一次創意 大發揮。
Address： 5/F, Harbourfront Landmark, 11Wan Hoi Street, Whampoa, Hung Hom, Kln 地址：紅磡環海街11號海名軒5樓
Tel：3746 2733 Email：messina@KOdining.com
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Cru Christmas
The New Teppanroom @ Grand Hyatt Hong Kong The Teppanroom located at Kaets, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong is now open. The Teppanroom provides an interactive dining experience in an elegant and a mixture of Western and Japanese -style setting where guests watch tableside as chefs transform market-fresh ingredients into delicious teppanyaki grills-a fresh take on market-to-table dining of world flavours. The Teppanroom, Sous Chef Robert Liu started at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong in 2011 and is delighted to be part of this exciting opening. His extensive working experience in France, Shanghai and Beijing brings the international menu at The Teppanroom. A selection of fine wines, Japanese beer, shochu, plum wine and an extensive list of premium sake are also available. 位於香港君悅酒店鹿悅餐廳的The Teppanroom現已開幕，餐廳融合高格調的歐日設計概念。客人 可享受由廚師即席以純熟的烹飪技巧將新鮮食材炮製成美味鐵板燒料理，為酒店由市場直送世界時 令美食至客人眼前的嶄新餐飲之選。The Teppanroom副廚師長Robert Liu於2011年開展他於香港 君悅酒店的事業。Chef Robert曾於法國、上海及北京等地工作，為The Teppanroom的精彩國際美 食菜單帶來多元化的烹調風格。餐廳特別挑選了多款美酒、日本啤酒、燒酎、梅酒極品日本清酒。
Enquiry：2584 7722
Socialito X Jax Coco Socialito is modern and fashion and gives you the feel of being in a Mexican garden. With music, you and your friends will experience a wonderful LatinAmerican night. This year, Socialito and Jax Coco join to create festive joy in town. In everyday 5-8pm “Jax Coco happy hour”, there will be 3 special decent cocktail for you. When customers order Jax’ tail, one will get a ceviche tradicional, pork cracklin’ s or chicken carnitas tacos for free. “Jax Coco happy hour” launches from today till 30, Dec. Delighted partygoers throughout the festive season will have the happiest of holidays! Socialito揉合摩登、富現代感的設計，讓人彷如置身於墨西哥的莊園內。在音樂 伴隨下，帶給你充滿拉丁美洲風情的一晚。今年聖誕，Socialito與Jax Coco攜手 打造歡樂時光，慶祝佳節來臨。Socialito將於每天下午5時至8時的「Jax Coco 歡 樂時光」供應三款以Jax Coco精心調配而成的Jax’ tails雞尾酒特飲，為您帶來極 致的享受。顧客在歡樂時光時段內每點一杯Jax’ tail，將會免費獲贈一客Ceviche
Tradicional、Pork Cracklin’s或Chicken Carnitas Tacos。「Jax Coco歡樂時 光」己正式登場，直至12月30日，讓一眾派對動物趁著聖誕佳節盡情暢飲狂歡！
Socialito Address：G/F, 2 The Centrium, 60 Whyndham Street, Central 地址：中環雲咸街60號中央廣場地下2號舖地下
Tel：3167 7380
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Cru Christmas
019
X’mas special for The Press Room In order to greet the festivals, Press Room Group’s restaurant: Classified,
一連串精選餐單及優惠，呈獻節日精選，共享節日歡騰時刻。
The Press Room, The Pawn, The News Room and SML will serve a round of menus and promotions, allowing you to have precious moments.
為慶祝佳節，主廚Wilson Wong以現代手法炮製經典法式餐單。由12月
1日至12月30日，客人可以港幣250元享受三道菜式節日午市餐單，港幣 To celebrate Christmas, chef Wilson Wong will use a modern style to car-
548元可享聖誕晚餐。在除夕，餐廳亦特別設計五道菜式，讓客人盡情品
ry out classic French cuisine. Start from December, customers can enjoy
嚐令人垂涎的法式美饌，價格為港幣548元。
a 3-coursed set lunch for $250, and $548 for Christmas dinner. On New Year’s Eve, The Press Room also prepared a 5-coursed delicate dine for customers, which is $548.
The Press Room Address：108 Hollywood Road, SOHO, Sheung Wan
為迎接聖誕新年的蒞臨，Press Room Group廣受歡迎的餐廳－
地址：上環蘇豪荷李活道108號
Classified、The Press Room、The Pawn、The News Room及SML分別推出
Tel：2525 3444
Champagne AYALA A Unique Approach to Dosage Located in the famous Grand Cru village of Aÿ, Champagne Ayala has been recognised for its very ‘haute couture’ champagne-making since the foundation of the house in 1860. With a prime focus on grapes from Grand Cru and Premier Cru villages, Ayala produces a fascinating range of low dosage champagnes and is a pioneer in the Brut Nature category. A very unique and pure style with a genuine commitment to excellence.
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PANEL TASTING
Text: Eddie Chui, Nevin Yip // Images: Alvin Luk Special Thanks: AMMO, Drawing Room Group
“White” Christmas 「白色」聖誕
During Christmas, we are always waiting for the “pop” sounds of champagne. The golden bubbles are usually made with 3 major grapes of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. When it is made only with Chardonnay, we call it Blanc de Blancs Champagne, as it is solely made with the white grape of Chardonnay. Let us pop these delicious champagnes for a white Christmas. 每逢到聖誕節，大家最想喝的必定是 Pop 一聲的香檳，淡淡金黃的氣泡，大多 是由三種主要的香檳葡萄Pinot Noir、Pinot Meunier及Chardonnay釀成。但 也有是單純以白葡萄 Chardonnay 所釀造，我們稱之為白釀白香檳（ Blanc de
Blancs Champagne）。今年大家不妨留意這些白釀白香檳，過一個白色聖誕。
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Blanc De Blancs
PANEL TASTING
Champagne is like Bordeaux, where champagne houses use
021
Blancs）香檳，便是以100% Chardonnay釀造的香檳。
different grape varieties to make the base wines for champagne. After that, the chief winemaker, who is called the Chef de Caves
另外，年份香檳也有不少是白釀白的種類。我們這次找來二十多款
in champagne, will lead his team to do a blending first to made
的白釀白香檳中，便有數款是年份香檳，而且我們找來了由香檳愛
different cuvees before doing the second fermentation. The most
好者及專家組成的Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne為我們品評
usual grape varieties used include: red grapes of Pinot Noir, Pinot
各款白釀白香檳。
Meunier and white grape of Chardonnay. This is to build the house style, as well as to make a balance wine by blending different varieties which have their own characters. The red grapes of the 2 pinots are pressed gently, therefore the juice for making wine is still clear without the colourings from the skin of the grapes. Besides making blended champagne, we also have single varietal champagne made with red grapes of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, which is called the Blanc de Noirs (white wine made from black grapes) and we also have our highlight of this panel tasting, the Blanc de Blancs (white wine from white grapes) champagne made with Chardonnay. In this tasting, we also tasted some vintage blanc de blancs and other NV of more than 20 bottles. We are also honoured to invited champagne lovers and experts from the organization of Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne as our panel as well. 香檳區就好像波爾多一樣，酒莊會以不同的葡萄品種，釀成不同 的基酒（ Base Wine ），然後由首席釀酒師，在香檳我們稱之為
Chef de Caves ，及他的團隊去調配成不同的 Cuvée，再進行第二 次發酵，釀造成香檳。而所使用的葡萄品種，最常見的有三款，包 括： Pinot Noir 及 Pinot Meunier 黑葡萄、及 Chardonnay 白葡萄， 這樣配調除了要建立香檳莊的獨有風格，還希望以幾款葡萄的個性 互補不足。黑葡萄的兩款Pinot由於果液是以輕柔的方法榨壓出來， 所以汁液仍是金黃透明，並沒有染上果皮的紅色色素。除了以黑葡 萄跟白葡萄混合調配的香檳以外，還有以單一品種釀造的香檳， 例如只以 Pinot Noir 或 Pinot Meunier 釀造的香檳，我們稱次為黑 釀白（Blanc de Noirs）香檳，還有這次的主角白釀白（ Blanc de
Scoring system 100 point system / 100分系統 points awarded
year of tasting
best potential year to taste
得分
品評年份
最佳飲用年份
88 2013
2020A
D – drink now 現在享用 A – suitable to drink now, but will improve with time可享用，但陳年會更佳 K – allow more maturing time before enjoying應再陳年一段時間才享用
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95-100
Perfect or nearly perfect wine without any flaws, reaching the highest standards in every aspect, and leaving the drinker wanting more. 接近完美、沒有瑕疵的酒，各方面達到最高水準，讓人再三回味。
90-94
Outstanding wine in every aspect, precise and alluring
85-89
Outstanding wine with character, reflects terroir
80-84
Good quality wine with character, reflects terroir, but not outstanding.
70-79
Simple and straightforward wine, but with minimal character.
60-69
Dull or flat wine without character
50-59
Faulty or unacceptable wine
出眾的酒，各方面表現出色，鮮明具吸引力 。 品質優良的酒，有個性，能顯示產區風格並表現突出。 品質優良的酒，有個性，能顯示產區風格並，但表現並不突出。 簡單，直接的酒，但未能突個性。 不對眼，沒有個性，沉悶的酒。 有問題，不能接受的酒
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PANEL TASTING
Tasting Panel
At the back, from the Left : Alex Leung, Rolland Muksch, Ian Symonds, Hood Hon, Alan Wong, Alan Fung. In the front, from the left: Carol Yau, Nellie Ming Lee, Catherine Yen, Mabel Lai.
Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne Cru Magazine invited the “Chevaliers” of the local Hong Kong chapter of Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, a members-only group of passionate Champagne lovers. Although the history of the group goes back to 1650 when several nobles at the court of Louis the XIV decided to get together and celebrate the Champagnes of the great coteaux, or hills, of Aÿ, Avenay, and Hautvillers, the original Order presumably ended when all these noblemen were executed during the revolution. Therefore, the existence of the modern Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne can be attributed to a group of Champagne makers in 1956 who decided to revive this traditional Order. The Consul General for the Greater China chapter of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne is Claudio Salgado, a veteran of over 20 years in the hospitality industry. “Champagne only comes from Champagne, is the motto of the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne”, explained Claudio, “and we celebrate the best of Champagne no matter where it is from in the region. We aim to promote champagne as the finest wine and want to let people know about the excellence of the Champagne region.” 《釀 ·生活》這次找來Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne香港分區分會的「騎士」們來為我們品評各款白釀白香檳。它是一個為 香檳酒迷而設的會員專屬團體，定期舉辦香檳品酒會及香檳晚宴。這個團體的歷史可以遠溯至1650年，當時路易十四的貴族們為了 歌頌來自區內Aÿ，Avenay和Hautvillers的偉大香檳，這個團體原本在革命其間理應完結，可是，一群香檳釀酒師在1956年的時候又 再次把這傳統復興，並命名為Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne。 在餐飲服務業界足足打滾了整整20年的Claudio Salgado是Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne大中華區的總理事。他表示：「香 檳酒只會由香檳區生產，這是Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne堅定不移的信念。我們歌頌來自香檳區內的所有香檳酒款，希望 更多人能欣賞優秀香檳，了解更多關於香檳的多樣化。」
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Blanc De Blancs
PANEL TASTING
023
A t r a P nc de Blanecs Bla Vi_ ntag
1
$347
TOP
Pierre Gimonnet Fleuron 2006 Brut 1er Cru 94
2013
2018A
Armit Wines // 3796 7192 // www.champagne-gimonnet.com
Pierre Gimonnet has a long history for more than 260 years. They started to make their own champagne since 1935. Pierre Gimonnet has 26 hectares of land, 14 are Premier Crus in Cuis and 12 Grand Crus in Cramant and Chouilly. Pierre Gimonnet已經有超過260年的歷史，在香檳區歷史悠久。直到1935年 Pierre才於自家住宅釀起酒來，而到了1955年之後，Pierre Gimonnet合共有 26公頃的田地，在Cuis有14公頃的Premier Cru以及在Cramant及Chouilly 有12公頃的Grand Cru。
Catherine Yen Lemon color with persistent bubbles. Moderate aroma intensity with aroma characteristics of citrus fruits, apple, hints of pear, biscuits, bread. Dry to off dry on the palate, good flavour intensity. Creamy mousse. Flavour characters of citrus fruits, some apples and pears, mineral, biscuits, bread. Refreshing acidity. A long nice and clean finish. 像檸檬的黃色，持久的氣泡。中等強度的香氣之中，包括柑橘類水果，蘋果，梨，餅乾及麵包。乾身的口感不失力度，如慕絲的 同時，帶有些柑橘、蘋果、梨、餅乾及礦物，配上清新的酸度，和一個悠長整潔的收結。
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PANEL TASTING
2
TOP $560
Ulysse Collin, Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut, ‘Les Pierrieres’ 2009 92
2013
2018A
L’Imperatrice Limited // 2850 5544 // www.imperatrice.com.hk/domaines/ulysse-collin.html
The Collin Family has been growing since 1812. Olivier Collin was an apprentice of Anselme Selosse, a great champagne master. His first product was released in 2004. Ulysse Collin practices organic farming and within 2 years, there would be fully natural organic vinification. Collin 家族早於 1812 年已經種植葡萄。師承香檳大師 Anselme Selosse 的 Olivier Collin ，首個出品年份是2004 年。Ulysse Collin 使用有機耕作，例 如透過犁田來替代除草劑，也不使用化學藥劑，只用有機肥及部份有機殺蟲 劑。Olivier更預計在兩年之內將全面使用有機種植。
Carol Yau
Color is medium yellow with good fine bubbles. The nose is light compared to the more intense flavours on the palate. Toasty almonds. Good acidity. 中等的黃色加上幼細的氣泡。香氣相比口感來得輕柔，有烤杏仁的氣味，良好的酸度。
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9
Blanc De Blancs
3
TOP Legras & Haas Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 2007 92
2013
PANEL TASTING
025
$565
2016A
Prowine Limited // 2898 3028 // www.legras-et-haas.com
Legras & Haas was found in 1991, by two passionate growers and makersBrigitte Haas and François Legras. They respects the integrity and the quality of the grapes. Legras & Haas always follow their motto: “Humbly following the nature so that the terroir expresses itself at is best.” Legras & Haas 由 兩 位 充 滿 熱 情 的 釀 造 者 在 1991 年 共 同 建 立 ， 分 別 是 Brigitte Haas 和François Legras 。他們一直堅持採用最天然，最少人工干 預的方法去釀造。「謙遜地尊重自然，讓其自然表達出風土特色。」一直都是
Legras & Haas的格言。
Hood Hon Starbright and clear with long streams of small fine bubbles. Pronounced developed bouquet with a bready nose. Leaking some fruits on minerals make it rather generic. Almost bone dry with tart acidity. Quite concentrate flavour but still quite generic and yet to take shape. Comparatively full body and moderate finish. Needed more time to integrate and develop. 酒色明亮加上細緻悠長的氣泡。已經有成熟的麵包、水果、礦物氣味，而且有穩定的酸度。酒體算是較厚，收結適中。雖然濃郁 但仍然需要時間去成形。
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PANEL TASTING
Duval-Leroy Blanc de Blancs 2004 Duval-Leroy Blanc de Blancs 2004 92
2013
2015D
EMW (Hong Kong) Trading Company Ltd // 3975 3351 // www.duval-leroy.com
Hood Hon
Persistent bubbles in golden core with white rim. Moderate intensity of more fruity note. Medium acidity with a sweet dosage. Full body and detectable alcohol in palate. At peak. Drink now. 色澤金黃，白色的氣泡在邊緣翻滾著。中等強度帶來充分的果 香。酸度中等同時有一定的甜度。酒體豐厚，酒精感強。此香檳 已達頂峰，適合飲用。
Chartogne Taillet, Heurtebises Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008 90
2013
2017A
L’Imperatrice Limited // 2850 5544 // www.chartogne-taillet.com
Roland Muksch
$400
Light gold with fine bubbles. Grape fruit, pears and brioche on the nose. Refreshing and mineral on the palate. Dry with good acidity and length. Classic and enjoyable. 淺金色加上細緻的氣泡。香氣有葡萄果香、梨、奶油。口感屬於 乾身，清爽的酸度以及礦物感，令人愉悅的收結。
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PANEL TASTING
027
Herve Dubois Brut Blanc de Blancs Millesime 2006 Herve Dubois Brut Blanc de Blancs Millésimé 2006 90
2013
$416
2017D
Cuvees.com // 2546 7628 //
Hood Hon
Moderate golden core with a fine consistent bubble stream. Pronounced aged bouguet of ripe red delicious apple, slight oxidative note of cut pear, some yeasty nose. Moderate acidity with balanced dosage. Moderate length. 不濃不淡的金色，細緻而持久的氣泡。充滿豐郁、成熟的紅蘋 果，酵母及切開了的梨子的香氣。中等的酸度配合平衡的甜度， 收結長度中等。
Marie-Courtin, Eloquence Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008 90
2013
2015D
L’Imperatrice Limited // 2850 5544 //
$590
Ian Symonds Pale lemon color with surface bubbles but no streams. Aroma of orange zest, very simple. Palate is simple with a citrus zest and a slightly bitter twist at the finish, short and simple. 淡檸檬黃色，表面有氣泡。有簡單直接的橙皮香氣。口感除了有 橙的味道外，還有少許橙皮的苦澀味，收結短而直接。
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PANEL TASTING
1
Pcadre tBB lancs
Blan on-Vi_ ntage N
$360
TOP
Laherte Frères, Blanc de Blanc Non Dose NV 96
2013
2018A
L’Imperatrice Limited // 2850 5544 // www.champagne-laherte.com
Since 1889, the Laherte family has been growing grapes in and around the village of Chavot. Today they own 10 hectares. To Laherte, terroir is more important than blending. It has a wide range of soil diversity, from chalk to silt, clay and marl. 自1889年，Laherte家族就已經在Chavot及鄰近的田地種植葡萄。今日他們擁 有10公頃的土地。對於Laherte家族來說，風土比調配來得更加重要。他們擁 有多種不同類型的泥土，由白堊到沙土，黏土到泥灰等。
Catherine Yen Lemon color with good persistent bubbles. Good aroma intensity with aroma characteristics of citrus fruits (lemon, lime), some minerality, biscuits, brioche. Dry on the palate. Refreshing acidity, good level of intensity and concentrators on the palate. Flavour characteristics of citrus fruits (lemon, lime), yeast, mineral, biscuits, brioche. Smooth creamy bubbles. A moderately long finish. 檸檬黃色，帶有持久的氣泡。香氣和味道都頗濃郁，夾雜著檸檬、青檸、礦物、餅乾及奶油等氣味。乾口類型，口感有清爽的酸 度，以及厚重的感覺，帶檸檬、青檸、酵母、礦物、餅乾及奶油味道。泡沫幼滑，平和而悠長的收結。
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Blanc De Blancs
2
PANEL TASTING
029
TOP
$455
Drappier Blanc de Blancs Signature Brut 94
2013
2015A
Edrington Hong Kong Limited //2891 8086 // www.champagne-drappier.com
Champagne Drappier was found in 1908, in Reims region. Drappier best vine is located in Urville, more than 40 hectares. The Drappier family strongly refuses the manipulation of sulphur, since they think that will obstruct natural flavor so they use the least sulphur among the region. Champagne Drappie r於1908年在香檳區內Reims 創立。Drappier 家族旗下 擁有超過 70 公頃的葡萄園，其中最優秀的是位於 Urville 超過 40 公頃的葡萄 園。 Drappier 非常抗拒使用硫化物，因為他們認為會破壞天然的風味，所以
Drappier是區內使用最少硫化物的香檳莊之一。
Mabel Lai
Medium gold, medium intensity of peach and melon with some bread. Refreshing acidity, medium body and quite long finish. The structure is quite obvious in palate. 適中的金黃色及濃度，帶著蜜桃、蜜瓜和麵包氣味。清爽的酸度，中等酒體，收結悠長。酒的結構在口中亦算明顯。
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030
PANEL TASTING
$555
3
TOP
Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 93
2013
2014A
Summergate Limited // 2545 4100 // www.champagne-henriot.com
The Henriot was founded in 1808. She has favorable vines in Côte des Blancs. Chardonnay plays a main role in Henriot, so the style will be rather fresh and elegant. With the determination during the production, royal families in Holland, Austria and Hundary are often fond of her. Champagne Henriot於1808年正式成立。她在Côte des Blancs擁有首屈一 指的葡萄園。Henriot香檳中，Chardonnay所佔的比例往往較多，風格清新優 雅，加上嚴謹的製作方式，故深受荷蘭、奧地利以及匈牙利等皇室喜愛。
Mabel Lai
Bright pale gold, medium intensity of lemon, peach, hints of biscuit. Medium acidity, medium body with some minerals touch. Quite restraint on flavour and not much concentration and complexity. Medium finish. 明亮的淡金色，中等強度包含著檸檬、密桃和餅乾的氣味。酒體和酸度都屬中等，滲透著些微礦物感。口感的濃度和複雜性不 高，而同似乎不太開放，收結中等。
Champagne Henriot Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
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Blanc De Blancs
PANEL TASTING
031
Veuve Fourny & Fils Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru Vertus Veuve Fourny & Fils Blanc de Blancs Brut Premier Cru Vertus 92
2013
$380
2018A
Amber Wines Ltd. // 2815 9330 // www.champagne-veuve-fourny.com
Nellie Ming Lee
Fine pearls warm straw with hints of gold. Aroma of stone fruits, apple, pear, nectarine, brioche, yeast and butter. Medium intensity with a bit of creamy and nectarines. Some dried honey on toast flavours with long finish. 一種類似珍珠白、稻草般的金色。包含著有核果實、蘋果、梨、 桃，奶油及酵母的香氣。中等厚度，口感柔滑，帶有忌廉、牛油 桃及白桃的味道。另外亦有種烤蜜糖的味道，伴以悠長收結。
Laithwaite Brut Premier Cru NV 92
2013
$399
2016A
Laithwaites Wine // 30715085 // www.laithwaiteswine.hk
Ian Symonds
Pale lemon color with persistent bubble stream. Aromas of apple, lemon juice, yeasty fresh bread aromas, complex nose. Palate is very fresh, citrus and green apple with added complexity of yeast and some maturing characters. 淡檸檬黃色，氣泡持久。香氣複雜，有著蘋果、檸檬汁、新鮮麵 包的氣味。口感相當清爽，有著成熟的特質，包含著柑橘、青蘋 果和酵母的味道。
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PANEL TASTING
Lanson Extra Age Blanc de Blancs NV
$735
Lanson Extra Age Blanc de Blancs NV 92
2013
2018D/A
Northeast Wines & Spirits Ltd. // 2573 5733 // www.lanson.com
Alan Wong Light lemon color with very long lasting extra fine bubbles. A lot of breadiness and biscuity flavour both on nose and on palate. Good acidity level as back bone and creamy in mouth. Long finish. 顏色淡黃，氣泡幼細且持久。充滿麵包和餅乾的氣味和味道。有 良好的酸度作骨幹，餘韻悠長。
Besserat de Bellefon Cuvée Des Moines Brut Blanc de Blancs 91 $530
2013
2018D
Sino Vantage Asia Limited // 2581 9101 // www.besseratdebellefon.com
Carol Yau Color is warm yellow with fast fine consistent bubbles. Strong toasty coffee like aroma. The palate is equally strong and bubbles in the front but short on the finish. Back notes hints of orange honey. 溫暖的黃色，加上綿密的氣泡。強烈的烤咖啡氣味。口感同樣強 勁，氣泡的初段較強，但較快消散。尾段帶點橙、密糖味道。
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Blanc De Blancs
PANEL TASTING
033
$528
Baron-Fuenté Esprit Blanc de Blancs Baron-Fuenté Esprit Blanc de Blancs 91
2013
2018A
Asia Euro Wines & Spirits (H.K.) Ltd. // 3996 0332 // www.baronfuente.com
Nellie Ming Lee
Day bright and fine mousse. Brioche, almonds, apricots, meyer lemon nose with medium intensity. Palate with warm apricots, white peach and white blossoms. Slightly yeasty, brioche with melted butter. Creamy finish. 明亮的顏色，帶著慕絲泡沫。有著奶油、杏仁、柑桔檸檬的香 氣。口感帶有杏、白桃、白花等味道。輕微的酵母感，並有種剛 焗過的黃油味道，柔滑的收結。
Gosset Grand Blanc de Blancs Brut 91
2013
$628
2017A
Watson’s Wine // 2606 8828 // www.champagne-gosset.com
Catherine Yen
Lemon color with lively smooth bubbles. Aroma intensity is moderate with citrus, green apples, pear and yeasty nose. Dry on palate with good acidity. It has more intensity on the palate than the nose. Moderately long finish. 檸檬黃色，伴隨著順滑的氣泡。香氣強度中等，有柑橘、青蘋 果、梨及酵母氣味。口感上有良好的酸度，此香檳口感比起香 氣，會比較濃厚強勁，並有中等悠長收結。
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PANEL TASTING
Ayala Blanc de Blancs BrutNV Ayala Blanc de Blancs Brut NV
$658
91
2013
2023A/D
Jebsen Fine Wines // 3180 3424 // www.champagne-ayala.com
Alan Wong Golden yellow color, very forward herb nose with flower flavours, meaty, citrus, pear and strawberries taste. Long palate of acidity with balance. 金黃酒色，混合著草本、花朵、肉類、柑橘、梨、草莓等味道。 口感和酸度都互相平衡著。
Hervé Dubois Brut Reserve Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV 91 $416
2013
2017A
Cuvees.com // 2546 7628 //
Hood Hon
Light golden with small bubbles. Aromas of green pears, honey flowers and perfume. Lively acid and dosage on the sweeter end. Delicate mousse and alcoholic provided a good backbone. Moderate to long finish. 美妙的金黃色，帶著微細的氣泡。香氣中等，有著新鮮的梨子、 蜂蜜和花蔟的氣味。酸度與甜度都很配合。細膩的氣泡和酒精為 此酒構成良好骨幹，微甜，中至長的收結。
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Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1er Cru “Les Belles Annees” Blanc de Blancs Brut Pierre Gimonnet & Fils 1er Cru “Les Belles Annees” Blanc de Blancs Brut 90
2013
$359
2017A
Winebeast // 2804 1318 // www.champagne-gimonnet.com
Roland Muksch
Lemon color and lime fast moving bubbles. Restrained nose with hints of citrus, apple and bread. The palate has persistent mineral notes. Some residual sugar opened. The bottle was not in perfect condition. 青檸檬的顏色，氣泡活潑。香氣方面，比較封閉，仍有著柑橘、 蘋果和面包之香氣。口感具悠長的礦物感及一定的甜度。這酒仍 未達最理想的狀態。
Demarne Frison, Cuvée Lalore, Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature NV 90
2013
2020D/A
L’Imperatrice Limited // 2850 5544
$380
Carol Yau Color is golden shown with fine slow bubbles which fades quickly. The aromas have hints of oak and grass. The honey seeps through on the backnote along with florals. There is good acidity and balance with medium length. 酒色金黃，泡沫細緻但很快便消散。香氣有微微的木桶和青草 味。回味時有蜂蜜和花香的味道。酸度的平衡不錯，收結中等。
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Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV Pierre Paillard Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV
$560
90
2013
2015A
Milon Wine (Hong Kong) Company Ltd. // 2408 3090 // www.champagne-pierre-paillard.com
Nellie Ming Lee
Fine mousse, bright, yellow straw color. The aroma and palate is medium intensity aroma of lemon peel, green apple, pear, toasted brioche. Medium warm finish. A bit of dried vanilla bean. Acidity is a bit on light side. 泡沫幼細，酒色是明亮的禾穗色。中等強度的香氣和口感有檸檬 皮、青蘋果、梨和烤奶油。收結有點乾雲呢拿豆味道，酸度有點 不足。
Veuve Doussot Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 90
2013
2018A
Wine Kiosk Company Limited // 2799 6822 // www.champagneveuvedoussot.com
Alan Wong
Light lemon color with very tiny fast travelling bubbles. Lemon, citrus, pear and mineral on the nose. Very good
$368
acidity and good structure and forward the complexity at the end. A very fruity drier champagne. Nice long finish. 淺檸檬色配上細小而活躍的氣泡。有著檸檬、柑橘、梨及礦物的 香氣。良好的酸度和結構，帶來高的複雜性。有著良好而長的收 結。
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Varnier Fanniere, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvee St Denis Grand Cru NV Varnier Fanniere, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvee St Denis Grand Cru NV 90
2013
$340
2015D
L’Imperatrice Limited // 2850 5544 // www.varnier-fanniere.com
Ian Symonds
Pale lemon color with some bubbles but no persistency. Aroma of yeast and some bruised apple. Palate not very refreshing, flavours of yeasty bread with cooked apples and a short finish. 淡檸檬黃色，有些少氣泡但並不持久。有酵母及壓過蘋果的氣 味。口感稍嫌不夠清新，有時麵包和焗蘋果，短的收結作尾。
Varnier Fanniere Brut Grand Cru 89
2013
2016A
Globus Wine // 6625 7376 // www.varnier-fanniere.com
Nellie Ming Lee
Briight straw with hints of gold, fine pearls. Medium
$388
intensity aroma of warm brioche with apple butter. Medium intensity palate with ripe stone fruits, pear, peach, nectarines. 明亮的金黃、珍珠色。香氣有烤蘋果、牛油的氣味。酒身中等， 帶有梨和白桃以及些微雲呢拿的氣味。口感則有成熟的有核心果 實、梨、桃和蜜桃。
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Franck Bonville Brut Prestige Blanc deBlances Franck Bonville Brut Prestige Blanc de Blancs
$490
89
2013
2014D
Wine For You Limited // 2756 8778 // www.champagne-franck-bonville.com
Nellie Ming Lee
Bright straw gold with very fine mousse. Aroma of very yeasty, earthy, mineral, tinned apple butter, burnt caramel. On the palate, have some dried mushrooms, apple, pears flavours. Toasty but no butter. Short aftertaste. 亮麗的禾穗色。除了幼細的泡沫外，還有酵母、泥土、礦物、蘋 果和焦糖的香氣。至於口感，則有些乾菇、蘋果和梨。少量烤熏 味，短的餘韻。
Pierre Gimonnet Cuis 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut NV 89 $263
2013
2023A
Armit Wines // 3796 7192 // www.champagne-gimonnet.com
Ian Symonds
Very pale lemon color with fine bubbles. Aromas of green apple, citrus, biscuits and bread crumbs. Palate is very refreshing, lime juice, lemon zest and susie mousse with lovely easy finish. 很淺的檸檬黃色，細緻的氣泡。青蘋果、柑橘、餅乾和麵包屑的 香氣。口感相當清新，青檸汁、檸檬皮和慕絲的配合帶來一個舒 服的收結。
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GH Mumm Blanc de Blancs
GH Mumm Blanc de Blancs 88
2013
2020A
$588
Pernod Ricard // 2398 3636 // www.ghmumm.com
Carol Yau Color is light yellow with fine consistent bubbles. Good acidity with lemon and lime notes. Wonderful and light now but character will build with time. 淺黃色，且有細緻一致的泡沫。有良好的酸度、檸檬和青檸味。 現時較輕盈，需要時間去成熟才可展現出它的特質。
Billecart Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
$971
Billecart Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru 88
2013
2016A
Links Concept Company Limited // 2802 2818 // www.champagne-billecart.com
Mabel Lai
Pale to medium gold. Medium aromas of ripe pear notes such as roasted almonds and biscuits. Balanced dosage with lively acidity formed a well back bone. Medium length. 由淡到中等的金色。香氣有成熟的梨子、烤杏仁、餅乾等氣味。 頗為複雜，而且活潑的酸度和平衡的甜味為此訂立穩固的骨幹。 中等的收結。
Lallier Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV
Lallier Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV 88
2013
$425
2018A
Kerry Wines // 2169 7700 // www.champagne-lallier.com
Alan Fung Color is light yellow with fine bubbles. Fresh nose of floral, apple and peach. It is refreshing with mild acidity and yeasty note. Medium finish. 明亮的檸黃色，氣泡細緻，帶花香，陣陣青蘋果及桃香。入口清 爽，帶點酵母味收結。酸度適中，收結中等。
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Conclusion and Editor’s Choices When people think of blanc de blancs champagne, many might think they are delicate but not for aging. In reality, besides the refreshing and crispy fruit style when they are young, many blanc de blancs champagne age very well. All the champagnes tasted this time are very fresh, even with some vintage that is more than 7 years old. Of course many pinot dominating champagnes show their powerful and rich palate when they are very young, it is just the style of the champagne and is not relevant to the ageing potential. We had some blanc de blancs from the 90’s, 80’s or even 70’s which are still very young and fresh, with developed secondary aroma of yeasty and toasty taste which contribute to great complexity. In this tasting, we have a mix of major champagne houses and some grower champagnes. Styles are very consistent with variation mainly coming from the use of reserve wines. They carry fruity, refreshing characters with very elegant palate and brilliant acidity. For some NV blanc de blancs, with extra ageing in bottle, will add more complexity which impressed us, like the Lanson Extra Age Blanc de Blancs. We also recommend the very outstanding vintage blanc de blancs like the Ulysse Collin’s Les Pierrieres. They are still very young at the moment, but with the structure and complexity, will certainly develop into great pieces which will be very enjoyable. So why don’t let them spend a little bit more time in your cellar? Of course it is irresistible to open them during Christmas, Cheers! 大部分人都會認為白釀白香檳是美味但未必適合陳年。其實清爽的口感及鮮美只是年輕時白釀白香檳所展現的風味，其實 他們有很好的陳年潛力。我們這次品嚐的白釀白香檳都是以清新爽朗為主的風格，但好些陳年6-7年的年份香檳也仍然年 輕，充滿活力。當然以Pinot為主的香檳會多了份華麗的感覺，豐厚而雄壯，但這只是酒釀本身的風格，跟陳年潛質無關。 我們以前嚐過一些90、80，甚至70年代的酒釀都仍然十分年青、可口，而且會展現出其他陳年後的複雜味道。 在這次的品試中，我們有大大、小小的香檳莊佳釀。風格很相似，分別很多時來自基酒，及存釀酒（reserve wine）的不 同。大都以清爽的果香，配以動人的酸度，優雅秀麗。其中有些NV延長了在瓶內熟成的時間，增加了討人歡喜的複雜度， 例如我們喜愛的其中一款Lanson Extra Age Blanc de Blancs。 我們也推薦表現突出的年份酒釀，如Ulysse Collin的Les Pierrieres。雖然仍然十分年輕，但以她突出的複雜度及優秀的酒 體，將會醞釀成美妙的香檳酒釀。因此何不讓這些酒釀在你的酒窖中多熟成一會呢？當然在聖誕節時，又有誰不想開著這 些美妙的氣泡來歡渡節日呢！
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