Cruising Outpost #25 Winter 2018-19 by Latitudes & Attitudes

THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE THAT HEAR THE CALL OF THE SEA

LIVING IN

CruisingOutpost.com

PARADISE PORTUGUESE KNOCKDOWN

JESSIE & LUKE GO FOR A SWIM HOW TO HANDLE A

HURRICANE FIVE SUNSCREEN MYTHS From the Creators of

BOAT SPOTLIGHT Winter 2018-19

Issue #25

MAINE CAT 38 CATALINA 425 EASTBAY 44

U.S. $9.99 - Canada $10.99

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TH E NE W E S T ADDI T I ONS T O H YL A S YA C H T S I S T H E H 5 7 . De s ig n e d b y B ill Dix o n , t h e w o r ld â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lea di n g de si gn st u di o t h a t off e rs t h e f in e s t m o d e r n lu x u r y c r u is in g t h a t is s y n o n y m o u s w it h t h e Hy l a s bra n d. Th rou gh ou r pa ssi on f o r s u p e r io r c r a f t s m a n s h ip a n d p e r f e c t io n , s h e d e liv e r s b lu e wa t e r c a pa bi l i t y w i t h ou t sa c ri fi c i n g s t y le a n d p re s e n c e . O u r a d v a n c e d c o n s t r u c t io n t e c h n o lo g y and e a sy sa i l h a n dl i n g bri n gs t o y o u t h e u lt im a t e c r u is in g e x p e r ie n c e y o u c a n t r u s t . L e t u s c u s to m bu i l d on e f or you .

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In th

there isis issue less tha n

38.8%

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ing! And we did it O N PURPO SE! Most o th e magazin r boating es h 65% adave over s. Person Responsible for This Bob Bitchin bob@cruisingoutpost.com

Editor at Large Sue Morgan sue@cruisingoutpost.com

Associate Editor Katie “Bitchin” Chestnut katie@cruisingoutpost.com

Boat Show Queen Jody “Bitchin” Lipkin jody@cruisingoutpost.com

Staff Infection Tania Aebi Contributor Zuzana Prochazka zuzana@cruisingoutpost.com

Life Aboard Queen Mother Robin Stout robin@cruisingoutpost.com

Web & Art Guru Richard Marker rich@cruisingoutpost.com

People Who Helped Us Create This Issue

Suzy Carmody Capt. James F. Cash Lee Chesneau Koa Cladianos Adam Claypool Catherine Dook Paul Esterell Emily Grazall Dr. Edit Harken Tara Kelly Jessica Lloyd-Mosten Chuck & Patty Ritenour/Ridgeway Robert Scott John Simpson Morgan Stinemetz Rene Yapp Jessie Zevalkink-Yeats

Media Princess Tabitha “Bitchin” Lipkin tabitha@cruisingoutpost.com Marketing & Video Darren O’Brien darren@cruisingoutpost.com

BS Slaves Jeﬀ & Marie Inshaw Jeﬀ@cruisingoutpost.com

Boat Show Slaves Jessie Zevalkink & Katie Smith

People Who Didn’t Help Us at All Nat King Cole Frank Sinatra James Dean Marilyn Monroe

This Issue’s Cover: This one was sent to us by Ken Wolfel and was taken by Alton Bertie who lives in the BVIs. It kinda shows why we are doing our BVI Share the Sail Event this February! Next Issue Goes On Sale Mar 3, 2019 Printed in the USA

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Contents

There are three things the human brain cannot resist noticing, food, attractive people, and danger.

Issue #25 Winter 2018-19

Special Stuff in this Issue Portuguese Knockdown Christmas Gift Guide How to Handle a Hurricane Welcome Back to the BVIs Paradise Living Feature Veteran Cruiser: Desiree Dreams Do Come True Cruising the West Coast Hawaii to California The Top 5 Sunscreen Myths Nelson’s Last Shore Run Dook’s Dock A Beginners Guide to Cruising

Jessie Zevalkink-Yeats

Bob Bitchin Jessie Zevalkink-Yeats

12 42 46 53 61 74 80 96 126 136 144 146 148

12 53

Regular Stuff in this Issue Attitudes Bob Bitchin Outpost News Another Way Tania Aebi What’s Out There: Monohull - Catalina 425 What’s Out There: Multihull - Maine Cat 35 What’s Out There: Power Cruiser - EastBay 44 Lifestyle Life Aboard Robin Stout Latitudes & Attitudes Weather Lee Chesneau Bubba Whartz Morgan Stinemetz Cap’n Cap’n Rich “Magic” Marker I Found it at the Boat Show Book Review Capt. Jim Cash Talk of the Dock Zuzana Prochazka Tech Tips Captain Pauly Bosun’s Bag Mackie White Cruisians

8 21 38 68 70 72 84 106 110 132 140 142 155 164 166 168 186 193 194

CRUISING OUTPOST DIVISION OF THE BITCHIN GROUP, INC. (USPS 011-950) IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY BY CRUISING OUTPOST, 9353 Oroville Quincy Hwy, Berry Creek, CA 95916. Periodical Postage paid at Berry Creek, CA and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to CRUISING OUTPOST, PO Box 15416, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5416.

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Attitudes

Middle age is when you choose your cereal for the fibre, not the toy.

By Bob Bitchin

I was getting ready to cast off on my first long voyage. I could tell, because I kept coming up with excuses not to go. It was a lot of years ago, but I can still recall how I would try to rationalize not leaving. There was no doubt that I wanted to cruise. I had read the books by Triston Jones, the Pardeys, and Herb Payson. I very much wanted to go and live those adventures. But I also was pretty attached to the comforts of living in California. I had a pretty idyllic life. I was 35 years old and lived in a beautiful marina only a block from a beach where some of the most beautiful women in the world came to play. I had a lot of friends and life was good. Sitting below decks on the original Lost Soul, I had mentally backed out of taking off a few times. Negative thoughts would hit me at the oddest times. What about storms? Every book I read about long-distance cruising had storms. The weather here was great. What about breaking things out at sea? If I break something here all I have to do is drop a hook—and I can get whatever parts I need immediately. Also, I could always call the Coast Guard if I got into trouble (it was a long time ago, back when the Coast Guard was for our safety, not National Security!). And convenience? How kewl is it to get anything you need just about any time you want it? Amazon rules! I’d read about how shopping could be a major ordeal when you were “out there.” Back then, at the end of the seventies, a lot of my friends were getting ready to take off cruising. So I set the date. I decided no matter where I was with the boat, I was going to sail down to Mexico on November 1! I fought hard against the departure. The only thing I can attribute to the fact that I actually left the dock was a perseverance that was ingrained in me when I used to ride my Harley across the country a couple times a year. A couple of the women I was dating back then (this was long before meeting Jody) did everything they could do to try

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and talk me out of going “out there.” They said I’d be killed, I’d get sick drinking the water in foreign ports, or I’d catch some kind of disease. (I know what they were thinking!) But I stuck doggedly to my plans. They called me obstinate and stubborn; I looked at it as having perseverance. The difference, I think, is that perseverance is a case of “will do,” while obstinancy is a case of “won’t do.” I prefer the positive. When I look at the majority of people I meet sailing, I would say the vast majority plan on someday cutting the dock lines and sailing off into the sunset. It’s been a dream for people as long as I can remember. The funny thing is, after 35 years of living on and around boats, I find that a very small percentage ever end up actually doing it. Actually leaving. The reasons are plentiful, but for the most part are based on money, or the lack of same, or the spouse not wanting to go—and these are grave obstacles to overcome. But the reality is, at every stage of your life, there are two things you can do. The decision you make on which of the two roads you will follow ends up creating what your life becomes. When you were in school you had two choices: to work hard or not. If you chose work hard, you soon had two choices: college or the work force. After that choice you looked at marriage, or not, and step by step you created the place in life where you are sitting right now. It’s not complicated, just one choice at a time. I often look back down my life’s road and wonder where I’d be if I had made one decision differently. Would I be me? Would I be the same person? And if not, who would I be? The decision I made those 30 years ago changed my life. That I know. Was it for better or for worse? Who knows! And what’s more important, who cares? Have a life’s plan? Going to head out? Just remember, it may be easier not to do something than to do it. But, which is more fulfilling?

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A By Jessie Zevalkink-Yeats

heavy wall of black water smashes into my back. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never felt anything so heavy. It presses me forward with a wicked force. I have no memory of my body tumbling through mid-air but I must be flying up and over the helm, just missing the winches on leeward side, breaking straight through the lifelines, and shredding the lee cloth at the seams. I open my eyes underwater. Fully submerged. I see bright green and bubbles lit by my headlamp. Everything past those lit bubbles is black. Cold. Silent. In my full foul weather kit, I am a weightless astronaut.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve just capsized.

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Portuguese

I appreciate that since ships have sailed, they have been knocked down. There are countless capsizes recorded, and just as many unaccounted for versions of this story. The first time you get knocked down, you don’t forget it. The lessons learnt are significant. I share mine with caution as many sailors have experienced far worse. For some, a single knockdown may be minute when compared to the rest of their story. Our version is not to be over-dramatized. It is not written to intimidate, to put off, nor to have the most epic bar story. It is a scenario every ocean sailor avoids at all costs. With that said, I have had a hard time putting it down on paper, as I am over-cautious about other sailors picking apart our decision-making and seamanship. I’ve narrated my piece exactly as I remember it alongside Luke’s technical notes that he wrote 24 hours after the fact. L u k e : Passage from La Coruna, Spain, to Lagos,

Portugal: 450 nautical miles. April 6, 2018. Mazu downloaded forecast 15-37 knots W-NW for whole sailing area. Three days in, Tuesday afternoon progress good. Weather as predicted. Tuesday sunset watch, winds increasing. Large squalls in excess of 40 knots. Luke on deck dropping staysail when Jessie clocked first 49-knot squall at 20:00. Winds easing thereafter. 30-40 knots with less squalls, which were less violent, roughly as predicted. Sailing with “Trepassy reef`” (smaller than a third reef, not tacked or clewed, resting on lazy jacks) Boat speed reduced from max surf of 13.7 knots to approximately 10 knots. Squalls continue until watch change at 01:00. Luke on watch. Hydrovane begins to struggle with large quartering stern waves. Wave pattern consistent. Hand steering assist. One accidental gybe by Jessie,

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arrested by preventer, no broach, just re-gybe back onto starboard. Taking 20-minute shifts at the helm, air temp approximately 12 degrees C. Both sailors on deck in light of rough sea state. Lifejackets on, tethered in cockpit. Boat requires constant helm input to hold course to waves, typical for this boat in rough seas. Boat on edge, but under control. Progress good. Both sailors good. Sea state remains consistent. GPS logged position 37° 4.2′ north, 9° 9.3′ west, heading of 150, TWA (true wind angle) 150-160, at 01:21 a max speed of 16.4 knots recorded, dropping shortly after (26 seconds) to 2.6 knots. This is when the wave struck approximately 90 degrees to course, at 240 degrees. It’s 60 degrees further to the right than the existing and consistent wave pattern over the starboard beam. J e s s i e : We don’t roll all the way over. We don’t even do a 180. Still, the violence of being www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Knock Down chucked over the side has me very disoriented. It’s only a matter of seconds—15, 20 max. One could call these life-defining seconds. Desirée rights herself and I’m hoisted back into the cockpit. It was only 30 minutes ago I couldn’t find my tether and had bowlined myself using a spare line. This piece of string just saved my life and I recognize immediately I would be long gone if it weren’t for it. I think I will mount it on my wall back home. It’s black with red stripes; it might look nice in my kitchen. Heavy and waterlogged, I’m trying to figure out how to get fully aboard the boat. My upper half is folded onto the leeward after deck, my lower half still in the sea and dragging. It’s true, you gain super powers when adrenaline kicks in. I hoist my lower half over the side and feel but am not hampered by the hulking weight of my gear. The sky is a pool of cloudy black ink. I don’t see Luke. I scream for him in sheer terror that he has gone overboard. It’s the kind of shriek you don’t ever want to release. I panic. This is a sailor’s worst nightmare. He grips my arm. He’s here. He’s right here. We’re okay. He helps me to my feet. I look up to see the rig still intact. He asks if I’m injured. I say no. Even if I was I wouldn’t recognize it now. I ask him if he’s injured. He says no. I don’t know what to say or do so I grab his face and kiss him. Hard. I don’t yet comprehend the gravity of the situation. Breathing is heavy. Voice is shaky. He checks me back into reality, asking me to look in the bilge. I wipe the salt from my eyes and get to work. L u k e : The boat heeled beyond 90 degrees, likely up to 110 or 120 degrees, borne witness by vertical movement of interior objects and removal of mast head instruments. Wave hit sailors directly from behind. No visibility or warning of its arrival. Both crew thrown to leeward and submerged completely. Jessie washed through

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Portuguese

guard rail with enough force to rip the leeward weather cloth from its attachments. Tether stayed connected. Luke (helming at the time of wave strike) thrown over top of the wheel and binnacle, landing on the leeward side cockpit combing completely submerged. Tether stayed connected. Boat knocked down for approximately 15 seconds then self-righted, dragging Jessie back into the boat. Somehow crew had switched positions for and aft after recovery. J e s s i e : We work efficiently, and prioritized our safety. The dodger’s been ripped off at its seams, leaving the steel frame intact and no cockpit protection. The once-secured flexible solar panel flaps violently. I cut it off and chuck it below. The GPS is dislodged from its mount on the dodger frame, chords ripped out. We lie a-hull and let the sea take us while we inspect the damage. I approach the companionway where we had only one hatch board in—our first big mistake. I take one step into the cabin and there is no place to plant my foot. The ladder’s been dislodged and strewn across the leeward berth. I cautiously climb down and am amazed by where things have landed. L u k e : Squalls eased with max winds 38 knots, but averaging 30kts which felt very comfortable compared to earlier conditions. Large quartering waves causing steering issues. A quick check of the boat confirmed the rig intact, sails intact. Inspecting interior confirmed bilge full of water, several items floating, and much of interior thrown to leeward, including many heavy objects like floorboards and 7-gallon jerry can of water. Leeward berth would have been a dangerous place for crew member during the knockdown.

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First actions were leaving the boat lying a-hull and placing the Edson bilge pump downstairs (1 gallon per stroke). Biggest concern was another knockdown, leaving enough water to flood batteries and engine. Water was cleared within 20-30 minutes with confirmation no further ingress. Made Pan-Pan call on channel 16. No response. J e s s i e : Everything on the starboard side had been hurled to the port. Shit. Is. Everywhere. The OCD-side of me is in hysteria at the sight of everything out of place and drenched. The heavily weighted floorboard flew to the port side top bunk. Unopened cans of AWLgrip and West Systems were chucked out of a secured cabinet across the saloon. The 7-gallon jerry can of water had relocated itself to the top of the stove. The full bilge was spilling over onto the floor. I pick my Canon 5D out of the highest part of the bilge and say a little prayer. The suctioned ice box lid had flown open and now the contents of our “fridge” paint the interior. Mystifyingly, the carton of eggs remains inside and is unharmed. I climb back into the cockpit. This is comparable to climbing a tree that is getting blown over while wearing your snow suit. I set to digging out the Edson “Pump on a Board.” With great difficulty, I pull everything out of the lazarette and am at last able to access it. I clearly remember mounting this pump in a very strategic place back in Michigan. Now I was wishing we would have just glued it to the damn floor down below. It’s awkward and heavy. I drop it through the companionway—I don’t have enough appendages to do it with grace—and it smacks the galley floor, leaving a dent www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/1/18 3:23 PM

Knock Down as predicted. One hose in the bilge and the other out the companionway, Luke primes the pump. The hose begins to snake around as the weight of the water and miscellaneous bilge debris sifts through. One pump at a time, we empty the flooded basement. It’s confirmed that we are not taking on any more water. Desirée remains in a relatively calm state lying a-hull. L u k e : Sailing is resumed with less than third reef only. Holding steady course. No reaction from steering wheel, rudder missing or disconnected. Engine started and helped us with steerage. Using Hydrovane self steering rudder to bear us away onto course again. we’re 20 nm from the lee of the headland. This decision was taken as the lee of the headland was near, and conditions were not worsening. Lying a-hull or heaving to any longer would have put us into nearby TSS shipping lane without the ability to track AIS movement after cockpit mounted screen was damaged by force of wave dislodging the mount and removal of masthead instruments to communicate over VHF. Engine stopped. Air in fuel lines. J e s s i e : Luke sits at the stern, steering this 9-ton boat with the Hydrovane like he’s driving a dinghy. It’s working. A standard-sized bilge pump handle fits securely into the mini-emergency tiller providing just enough leverage to hold course. It’s not a pleasant place to be. He gets smashed with wave spray, over and over. I stand just inside the companionway, anxiously awaiting my turn. The adrenaline that kept me warm for the first hour has worn off. I’m trembling and I wear the Atlantic Ocean as my outfit. I keep scanning the interior, again and again, awed by the violence of a single wave’s redecorating. It’s shocking. I keep making Pan-Pan calls as this is a high traffic area, just in case any ships can receive our call and are aware we are struggling to hold a course. No response. We don’t need any help. Yet. In fact, I don’t know if I’m mentally categorizing this as an emergency or an “oh shit” moment at this time. But, if another wave knocks us over, we’re going to need help. It feels like we are completely alone. The truth is, we are. L u k e : Both sailors very wet. With wind chill 10 degree C, hypothermia was likely. Having to hand steer from the transom with lots of spray. No dry clothing remaining down below, and 4 hours until sunrise, we again did 20 minute shifts with Hydrovane emergency tiller in between going down below to warm up. Wind remains consistent 35 to 40. www.cruisingoutpost.com

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J e s s i e : Luke musters up the courage to peel off his soaking layers and replace them with what semi-dry gear is left in the closet on his 20 minutes off. I repeat after him and feel a thousand times better. Changing out of wet clothes is a much more difficult task than one would think. I return to the stern to helm; it feels arctic, dramatic, and down-right miserable. We are so close to the protection of the headland. I line myself up with the lights ashore and steer. I tuck my face into my collar, squinting. The guiding lights become blurry neon lines. Luke shoves everything off the stove and boils water. He delivers me hot chocolate, which greatly improves my moral. Game changer. Three hours later, that glow at the end of the earth we’ve been dying to see turns into an orange sliver. The sun appears as if a kid had cut it out of orange construction paper and glued it to the sky. I picture the kid who cut it out sitting just below the horizon and pushing it up himself. It’s bold. It’s mesmerizing artwork. I can feel its warmth already. The seas are easing as we turn around the headland and the seagulls play games in the lee of our sails. The seagulls are having so much fun. I stare at them to distract me from my physical discomfort and they remind of the ability to make fun out of a shitty situation. The piece of orange construction paper forms a perfect circle and the surrounding sky is a sure sign of safety. We sail to Lagos Harbor entrance and drop the anchor. Go about replacing fuel filters and bleeding air from the lines. Start cleaning up mess. Sleep. The conclusion for potential knock-down prevention is as follows. We could have done one of three things. One, hove to on port tack until daylight when boat started to struggle with following sea. Two, drogue over the stern to slow the boat. Three, never left the harbor. I peel off my layers in the sunshine. The cockpit is so warm. The anchor secures us to planet earth. The breeze tickles the mop of hair on top of my head. I have a glass of wine for brunch. I tell Luke that I thought he was gone. I thought I was alone. I tell him I could have never done that without him. We run through all the what-ifs as you do after a traumatic experience. It’s only been 12 hours, yet I am able to recognize this as one of the greatest moments of my life. A significant exercise. I don’t regret leaving the last port. My retrospect quickly allows me to see this as an exceptionally important lesson for me and Luke. Cruising Outpost 17 11/1/18 3:23 PM

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Cruising Outpost News

Outposters News If It’s Gonna Happen It’s Gonna Happen Out There Issue #25

Evening Edition

Winter 2018 - 19

New Way to be Buried at Sea

Looking for something different to do when you die? The Neptune Memorial Reef is an underwater mausoleum which has been built off the coast of Miami. It lies 40 feet underwater and was modeled after the Lost City of Atlantis. The reef was created to comply with environmental standards and meets specific guidelines approved by the EPA, NOAA, Florida Fish and Wildlife and the Army Corps of Engineers. The reef spans more than 16 acres and contributes to marine life, because the structures promote coral and marine organisms’ growth. Local businesses like boat chartering, snorkeling, and diving are also benefitting from it. Families of the deceased who are buried at the reef are getting SCUBA certified so they can visit the resting place of their loved ones. And if your family can’t visit you, you’ll still get lots of company as all visitors are welcome, whether they have family buried there or not.

Cruisers’ Party News

In case you haven’t noticed, the world is changing. There’s this newfangled thing called the “Internet” and it seems more people want to see boats on-line than in person. Bummer! We are now down to just two US shows: Miami Sail & Power Boat Show on Feb. 16th, and the Pacific Sail & Powerboat Show on April 6th in Richmond, CA. For over 20 years we have been organizing parties for cruisers all over the world, most of which have been done in conjunction with major boat shows. At one time we were doing nine events a year! Over the past few years the shows have been changing, a lot! The Chicago Navy Pier Strictly Sail evolved into a Sail, Power, RV, Spa, Camping Gear and ATV show, while the Miami Strictly Sail at Bayside converged with the power show on Virginia Key. Meanwhile, the Long Beach and San Diego shows disintegrated, and the latest blow was when the new owners of the St. Pete Boat Show said we could no longer have a party there! But we don’t give up easy, so watch for “special parties” like the BVIs in February! Just keep reading the Outpost for news!!

Nautical Trivia “Taken Down a Peg” means to have one’s ego or pride reduced or damaged; to be humbled or humiliated. Kind of a strange phrase for it, right? Anyone know it’s nautical origin? (Wanna cheat? Answer is on page 32) www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Pass the Spinach “Another thing I got is a sensk of humiligration. Now, maybe you swabs can pool your intelligensk and sees that I’m axsking you for an apologeky.” - Popeye the Sailor

Sunsail Joins Cruising Outpost

When we first started having the Cruisers’ Parties at boat shows over 20 years ago, we were joined by Sunsail as our major sponsor. Well, they are back! And, they also have offered a Sunsail Charter as the Grand Prize for the raffle we hold at our events. The next party will be at the Miami International Boat Show on Virginia Key in Miami on February 16th. As always, the party is free for all who attend the show. It’s a great chance to meet the people who make the boats and gear you use, in a social agenda! Be sure to join us in Miami in February, and in Richmond, California at the Pacific Sail Expo Cruisers’ Party April 6th!

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National Sailing Hall of Fame Moves to Newport

The National Sailing Hall of Fame of Annapolis, MD, has a new home. It hopes to welcome visitors to its new location in the Armory building in Newport, RI by May, 2020, before the summer tourist season begins. The board of directors voted to relocate the Hall of Fame to the Armory building, and the Newport City Council approved a purchase-andsales agreement to sell most of the Armory on lower Thames Street to the Sailing Hall of Fame.

Why Sail?

“Sailing a boat calls for quick action, a blending of feeling with the wind and water as well as with the very heart and soul of the boat itself. Sailing teaches alertness and courage, and gives in return a joyousness and peace that but few sports afford.” - George Matthew Adams

The Next Generation of Cruising Guides - Digital!

Following on the success of their Sail Fiji app, Sail South Pacific is introducing their brand new app-based Sail New Zealand Cruising Guide. Issue 1 is a comprehensive guide for all the great cruising areas in New Zealand – from the top of the South Island (Nelson / Marlborough), to the top of the North Island (the rest of the South Island is coming in issue 2). It includes planning advice, routes, waypoints, anchorages, passage transits, cautions, facilities, activities, hundreds of photos, dozens of Sky Viewvideos and much more. It’s available on iOS devices (iPad Mini (2, 3, 4), iPad (Air to iPad Pro)) and is downloaded as a Free Planning app with in-app purchases for the various regions.

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Cruising Outpost 23

11/5/18 5:21 PM

Cruising Outpost News Who Was the First?

Who was the ﬁrst person to look at a cow and say, “I think I’ll squeeze these pink dangly things here and drink whatever comes out?”

24 Cruising Outpost

pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 4

“Welcome Back To The BVIs” Event February 1-15

The BVIs are pretty much a cruiser’s paradise, and the spirit of the people there is part of what makes that so. Now they can use our help. After the disasterous hurricanes that hit last year, they have rebuilt and they need us to come back and see how well they have recovered. To that end we are helping to promote the Welcome Back to the BVIs event. Join cruisers from all over the world from February 1st thru the 15th and help us celebrate the great job they have done. Don’t have a boat or can’t sail there in time? No problem. Join Bob & Jody and the Outpost team on our Share the Sail! We have some great catamarans and you can join us “by-the-cabin!” For more info just go to www.cruisingoutpost.com/sharethesail.

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11/5/18 5:25 PM

pg 25 Mack Sails.indd 1

11/1/18 5:01 PM

Cruising Outpost News

And the Award Goes To...

At the 49th United States Sailboat Show in Annapolis, MD, Gary Jobson received the 5th annual Sailing Industry Distinguished Service Award. Jobson has been tirelessly promoting sailing and the sailing lifestyle across the United States and around the world for over 40 years. He has written 19 books and narrated or produced thousands of films on sailing, along with being the voice and face of sailing for decades on ESPN and NBC. The Distinguished Service Award is an annual honor bestowed on a sailor who has distinguished him or herself through outstanding and unselfish service to the overall advancement of the sailing industry. Congratulations Gary!

A New Record?

Frank Rothwell, a sailor from the UK, believes he is the first person to circumnavigate the Americas in a Figure of Eight. He is working towards getting a Guinness World Record certificate. Looks like a record to us!

Getting the Royal Treatment My dentist told me I needed a crown. I was like, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I know! Right?â&#x20AC;?

Remember, focus on the journey, not the destination

26 Cruising Outpost

pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 6

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11/5/18 5:29 PM

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11/1/18 12:13 PM

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Cruising Outpost 29

11/2/18 2:29 PM

Cruising Outpost News Great Job for a Great Cause

The American Sailing Association (ASA) announced that it has helped raise another $41,000+ in 2018 for Hands Across the Sea, its exclusive charity partner for its annual Caribbean sweepstakes for seven consecutive years. This brings the total funds raised via its sweepstakes to approximately $180,000, making it very likely that the partnership will reach the $200,000 mark in 2019. Throughout September and October 2018, people who watched a one-minute video about Hands Across the Sea on ASA’s website and made an optional donation to the charity, were entered into the sweepstakes for a chance to win the grand prize of a weeklong sailing charter in St. Vincent and the Grenadines Since ASA selected Hands Across the Sea as its exclusive fall sweepstakes charity partner seven years ago, it has helped to raise approximately $180,000 for the non-proﬁt organization committed to raising literacy levels of children in the Eastern Caribbean. To date, Hands Across the Sea has raised funds to provide over 464,000 books to more than 400 schools and libraries in the Eastern Caribbean. Over 100,000 students have beneﬁtted from the support of generous sailors and other donors.

30 Cruising Outpost

pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 10

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11/1/18 2:09 PM

Cruising Outpost News Good News for the Vaquitas Scientists recently sighted up to six of the small, nearly extinct dolphins in the upper Gulf of California. Two were calves, which gives even more hope that the species may survive. The last official count of vaquitas, conducted two years ago, was 30 and since then some estimates of their remaining population were as low as 12. The once numerous species has dwindled rapidly in recent years due to gillnet fishing in the Gulf of California. The U.S. Court of International Trade has now banned all imports of gillnet-caught seafood from the upper Gulf.

Nautical Trivia

(Answer to the question on page 21) This expression comes from the practice of admirals and officers having their own flags aboard ship. Superior officers would have their flags positioned higher on the mast than subordinates and these flags would be attached to the mast by a peg. If a senior officer handed over his command to a junior, the flag would have to be flown in a subordinate position, or be â&#x20AC;&#x153;taken down a peg.â&#x20AC;?

32 Cruising Outpost

pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 12

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The only two animals that can see behind themselves without turning their heads are the rabbit and the parrot.

2,400-Year-Old Shipwreck Using the same technology as oil companies, the Black Sea Maritime Archaeology project, a team of maritime archaeologists, scientists, and surveyors, has discovered what is believed to be the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest intact shipwreck. The design of the Greek trading vessel, which was found off the coast of Bulgaria at a depth of 1.2 miles in oxygen-free conditions, is one that had only been seen before on ancient pottery. Carbon dating placed the age of the vessel at more than 2,400 years old. Apparently, the coast of Bulgaria was a very popular shipping route in ancient times. In the three years the project has been surveying the area they have discovered around 60 shipwrecks which include Roman trading vessels carrying amphorae and a 17th century Cossack raidiing ďŹ&#x201A;eet.

Almost Two-Centuries-Old Shipwreck Based on its size and cargo, the shipwreck remains of a schooner found in Lake Erie in Ohio are believed to be the Lake Serpent ship that sank in 1829. That would make it the oldest shipwreck ever found in the lake. The wreckage was originally spotted in 2015 by a shipwreck hunter. This past summer divers spent eight days, and will dive on it again next year, to try and positively identify it.

34 Cruising Outpost

pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 14

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11/5/18 5:33 PM

Cruising Outpost News ACTIVE PIRACY REPORT from the ICC A Narrative of the Most Recent Attacks (as of press time) Oct. 31, 2018 - Merak Anchorage, Indonesia: Unnoticed, robbers managed to board an anchored crude oil tanker steel engine spare’s and escape. The theft was noticed during routine rounds when the ship’s crew noticed the store room door open and engine spares missing. Oct. 29, 2018 - Nacala Outer Anchorage, Mozambique: During security round, duty crew onboard an anchored tanker noticed a boat tied up to the anchor chain and a robber trying to board the tanker via the anchor chain. Alarm raised and all crew mustered. Hearing the alarm, the robber jumped aborted the attempted boarding and escaped. A search was carried out. Nothing reported stolen. Oct. 29, 2018 - around 101nm, West of Pointe Noire, Republic of the Congo: Pirates in a speed boat chased and ﬁred upon a LPG tanker carrying out bunkering operations underway. Emergency bunker stop and cast off initiated. Speed increased and the tanker made evasive manoeuvres and escaped. All crew reported safe. Oct. 28, 2018 - Sekondi Port, Ghana: Unnoticed, a robber managed to board a berthed AHTS, steel ships properties and escape. During routine rounds crew noticed the padlock to the deck container damaged and on reviewing the CCTV recording the theft was identiﬁed. Incident reported to local Authorities. Oct. 27, 2018 - around 71nm SW of Bonny Island, Nigeria: Pirates boarded a container vessel underway, kidnapped 11 crew members and escaped. Incident reported to the Nigerian navy who dispatched a patrol boat and escorted to safe anchorage. Oct. 17, 2018 - Campha Anchorage, Vietnam: Unnoticed robbers, pretending to be stevedores, boarded an anchored bulk carrier during cargo operations, stole ship’s stores and escaped. The theft was noticed during routine rounds after departure. Incident reported to local agent.

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pg 21-35 Outpost News.indd 15

Cruising Outpost 35

11/5/18 5:34 PM

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Another Way Heading down the dark Chesapeake into unfriendly winds predicted to be 15-20 knots and actually gusting to 30, I listened for any hiccups from the thus-far reliable engine. Hurricane Florence was chugging northward and further inland as we crash into walls of water, making a bare 2 knots over the ground. Under the menacing clouds, Navionics and the autopilot steered us precisely on the shortest distance to our destination, hugging the eastern shore. The lights from a steady stream of commercial tug boats and ships illuminated the channel immediately to starboard—if we crossed over it, would the fetch be kinder on the western shore? I neurotically kept visiting various weather sites, trying to extract hope from every radar and forecast nuance, while not over-thinking all the crab pots waiting to snag the propeller. I’d already been below, surreptitiously inserting fresh batteries into the handheld GPS and VHF, making sure we had a way to contact help with our position, if necessary. This felt like a prescient move when both Accuweather and Weatherbug suddenly went red, placing our whole forecast area under a tornado watch. Hurricanes? Tornadoes? What would we be talking about tomorrow? You never know how a story is going to turn out, and even the best beginnings can have bad endings. One month earlier, Nancy and Jim bought a Tayana 36. “It’s everything we ever wanted in a boat!” she gushed when we ﬁrst started communicating. Nancy and Jim were in a long-distance love affair. Trudie needed to be delivered to the mid-Chesapeake area, near where they live. They’d never sailed offshore, and the 365 miles between upstate New York and Solomons Island, made for a fairly long maiden voyage through areas with lots of shipping to be on watch for and navigating to do, so I was asked to come along. A month later, Hurricane Florence was about to slam into the Carolinas as Jim and Nancy drove toward Kingston, NY. Nancy had emailed me several days prior, wondering what I though about Florence and her anticipated landfall not too far from where we were headed? Strong high pressure was supposed to hold her south, even giving us favorable wind for the offshore piece

38 Cruising Outpost pg 38-39 Another Way - editedbySue.indd 2

of the delivery, so I said we should just keep a vigilant eye on weather updates, stick to the plan, and go. Trudie was launched on a Thursday afternoon, her fi rst dip in the water after a year on the hard, while Hurricane Florence intensified and bore down on the North Carolina coast. Pregnant with all the North Atlantic water she’d sucked up, Florence howled and lumbered inland while Nancy, Jim, and Tom, Jim’s brother, spent all of Friday getting the engine running, turning on systems and pumps, listening for odd sounds, sniffing for smells, and inspecting for anything unusual. I kept waiting for a text: the engine died; we can’t find the mainsail; the head isn’t pumping. But, no. By the time I got to the boat late Friday afternoon, reporters were standing knee deep in Carolinian flood waters. Trudie was unfazed. Everything seemed to be working just fine—all but the leaky portholes, discovered while washing down the deck. “Isn’t she great?” Nancy asked with a huge grin on her face as she laid out the fi rst of many spreads for dinner. I was looking forward to spending a couple of days on a boat with somebody who showed her love through cooking. The three of them were so excited to start the voyage. But, we needed to wait until the next morning for the tide to be low enough for the mast to fit underneath a bridge just outside of the marina. So, dinner was followed by breakfast, the tank was topped off, and we began cruising downstream on the small Rondout Creek and onto the mighty, regal, bucolic Hudson. Morning light reflected off the dark water as the bow cleaved a path through tree trunks and other debris drifting by from the recent torrential rains, the kind I’d been jealous of for months. Extreme weather had plagued the northeast all summer with disquieting drought for some, like me, and gully washers for others. Today, it was all blue sky, oodles of sun, calm water, and stunning scenery. There’s something very special about the purposefulness of a massive river framed by achingly green hills, slowly winding its way toward the sea. The way the vegetation blankets the landscape, you can’t WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

10/30/18 5:25 PM

really see the surroundings are pretty densely populated. You coast on the river—part of the world around you, but not in it—passing under bridges rumbling with cars and trucks, getting overtaken by endless freight trains on the shoreline tracks, ogling the massive estates perched on hillsides, or thinking and talking about the ghosts linking together hundreds of years of Hudson River culture, economy, marine commerce, and change. By nightfall, Florence had opened the ﬂoodgates and North Carolinians were deploying in boats and trying to get around as we passed under the Tappan Zee bridge, the border between pastoral scenery behind us and hours of steadily increasing activity ahead. The river slashed through an assault of lights, sounds, and smells of colossally-hungry real estate development on growth hormones—Manhattan on one side, New Jersey on the other. Taking this all in from the deck of a small sailboat at 6 mph while avoiding the tugs, barges, and river taxis, can make you wonder: How vulnerable would these monuments to humanity and consumption be to a Category 6 monster hurricane of the future? The tide, current, and motor pulled us along and away from the noise, passing us under the Verrazano Bridge and spitting us out to timeless sea. Rounding the tip of New Jersey before heading down along the coast, it was quiet again and mostly dark—you’d need to be really far offshore to fully escape the loom of metropolitan and suburban light. Airplanes danced with the stars and Florence was working on delivering what would end up being nearly three feet of rain. Saturday was spent paralleling the Jersey Shore—Asbury Park, Atlantic City, Cape May—and another night fell on little Trudie as she hung a right onto the Delaware. We hugged the red channel marker buoys as lights and shadows of tugs, barges, and ships slipped by. The C&D Canal and its string of white lights led to dawn, a stop at Chesapeake City for some more fuel, and onto WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 38-39 Another Way - editedbySue.indd 3

northern reaches of the Chesapeake. Bald eagles took off from buoys leading to Solomons Island and the wind picked up. Florence’s eastern edge was spreading over our route for the last twelve hours of the delivery, and to the moment where this story began. After passing the Bay Bridge and Annapolis, weaving through the container ships and tankers anchored with bows into the increasing wind and thickening clouds, night fell again. “What do you think an approaching tornado looks like in the dark,” I asked the others, peering out from behind the dodger. “A water spout?” I checked the GPS and VHF. Yup, still working. And, since this ends up being a good story, so did Trudie. The wind stopped gusting, the occasional star peaked out, the worst of Florence stayed to the west as this sweet little boat unwaveringly powered through the wind and waves. Only several hours later than we’d calculated, she was bobbing at anchor off her new home dock, loved even more. Add relief to excitement and what do you get? Nancy and Jim had been with me on multiple chartered sailing vacations, but I’d never before gotten hugs as warm and tight as I did that Monday morning.

Cruising Outpost 39 10/30/18 5:26 PM

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10/30/18 9:16 AM

Hurricane Cruising Caribbean

From January to July, peak Caribbean cruising season, cruisers can be found traveling from port to port, enjoying the invariably pleasant winds and settled weather. But, as the hurricane season approaches, cruisers abandon coastal waters for a safer destination. They travel to Guatemala up the Rio Dulce (an inland river) to the destination of Fronteras. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get much better than supper in the jungle!

By Rene Yapp

Entertainment

Since many of the cruisers are retired, they have the energy and time to promote the arts. Every week there is a wealth of musicians sharing their talents in a variety of locations. Several of the marinas offer dinner, and a popcorn and movie night. The marinas even send out their lanchas to pick up and return the movie patrons to their respective locations. The marinas are always seeking ways to bring clients to their site. If you have a need or a clever idea, most marinas are willing to organize an event to accommodate your wishes. There are various tours that are offered accordingly to pique your interest. Over the morning net, it was possible to sign up for a zip line course and lunch at a local restaurant. And so, as new cruisers become part of the scene in the area, there will be refreshing opportunities for new experiences. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Why is it Safe?

Statistically, the likelihood of a hurricane in this area is very low. Fronteras is the city that is at the hub of this cruising community. Here, the boats benefit from the protection of the mountains from the full force of the winds. Since the location is 65 feet above sea level, a surge from the ocean is very unlikely. The only effect of the hurricane season, according to the locals, is a lot of rain. Safe and secure berths are essential for most cruisers. Many people leave their boats for months at a time as they escape from the heat and rain while they continue their travels or go back home for a visit. Most of the marinas have security on duty round the clock, with the result that theft is very unlikely.

Reasonable Dockage

Another great benefit of this area is that the cost of monthly dockage is very reasonable. Many marinas charge between $220 to $300 US monthly. In many areas of the Caribbean, it is difficult to find prices that beat this rate.

Service and Repairs

Several of the marinas here are able to complete excellent restorations or modifications to your boat while you are away. Do you need repairs made to your sails or canvas? How about bottom work or deck repair? You can easily find all these services here. In general, the fees for the jobs are very reasonable as well. While you can visit the repair shops yourself, many of them will send workers to your boat to perform their services. There is even a Raymarine technician in the area to solve your more technical issues, or to service any warranty claims you may have.

Dealing with Local Authorities

When you talk to cruisers about their stay at the Rio Dulce, it is inevitable that they will mention Raoul. He will act as an agent to assist with checking in your boat and crew to the country. His knowledge of the local system is extensive as he is an ex-Customs officer for Guatemala. As the demand for his services grows, he has hired other individuals to assist him in this business. All of his staff are well-trained and ready to help you with every aspect of entering the country. Once again, the service is available at a reasonable expense. Raoul not only works with you when you enter the country, but he has regularly scheduled visits to Fronteras, where he will complete the required extensions of your permits to allow your boat to remain in the country all hurricane season. We were utterly gratified with the ease of the entire process. In several other places, we had some anxious moments with the authorities as they informed us that our paperwork was lacking despite our best efforts to comply with all of the regulations.

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www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/18 9:21 AM

The Perfect Xmas Handling the paperwork, including importing the vessel Gift Easy Reading From Bob Bitchin

Easy Reading From The Sick Mind Of Bob Bitchin New Release

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created & VHF radios and Every day, cruisers turnLatitudes on their Attitudes & Cruising listen to the net. This is their lifeline to all of the people, Outpost Magazines. . marinas, vendors, 19 and services in the area. In the space of half an hour, you can locate any service that you The Sailing Life of all of the people need through the collective memory Notthe a "How but rather who listen daily to net.to"Most of the local restaurants a "Why to” live the announce their daily cruising specials and the organizations lifestyle. . activities that take place in the in the area outline17 the surrounding settlements. The cruising community is very Starboard active in the local area,Attitude providing some supplies needed by the villages, offering services such as the installation A sequel to The Sailing This will give you in remote areas, and of solar panels to Lifeg. produce electricity a reason to "cut the dock supporting the local organizations with much-needed lines and go! volunteers. The local cruising population supports a . 17 school for orphansA by participating Brotherhood of in events, buying Outlaws groceries from the floating store, and donating items they The first Lincoln no longer need. If you canTreb think of a project to benefit the novel. A look into the real population, thereworld will of bethe volunteers outlaw bikerand the skills to make it happen. in the ‘70s & ‘80s. 95

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pg 46-49R Hurricane handling - editedbySue.indd 5

24.

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How a tattooed outlaw biker ended up bringing thousands of people into sailing . Truth is stranger than fiction! First Edition - Hard Cover $

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This is a collection of stories by the founder of Cruising Outpost that give an insight into why people go cruising. This is not a "How to" but rather a "Why to!"

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11/1/18 4:38 PM

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11/1/18 4:39 PM

The Baths, Virgin Gorda.

OUT AT SEA AND IN YOUR ELEMENT. Uncover more than 60 islands, atolls, cays and caves when you cruise to the British Virgin Islands. Take a catamaran around the islands; dive into the crystal-clear waters; explore shops, authentic restaurants and high-end shopping; or just enjoy the sunshine. With so much to discover, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be planning your trip back even before you leave.

BVI-23390-Resize pg 52 BVI Ad.indd 521 Cruising Outpost Magazine_Full Page_November 2018.indd 1

www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/31/18 4:27 2:40PM PM 10/31/18

Join the Outpost in Saying

“Welcome Back”

Join the Celebration! New Dates! February 1 thru 15, 2019

On the following page s you will f ind spe cials on by-the-cabin charters, bareboat charte rs, dr ink s, me als, and re sorts. The BVIs are “Ope n for Busine ss” and want you to see how they have come back , so you k now that now you can come back to the be s t sailing in the WORLD!

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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11/2/18 11:21 AM

He lp We lcome Back the BVIs

Charles Tobias at Pusser’s says all of the Pusser’s restaurants and stores are open for buisiness.

The Soggy Dollar Bar in White’s Bay on Jost Van Dyke is excited to welcome all back to paradise

16 Months Later... It’s been about 16 months since two of the biggest hurricanes in history slammed into the British Virgin Islands, decimating everything and everybody there. But, the people of the BVIs are not the type to sit around and mope when things like this happen. In fact, within just a couple of months they were back up and running. Now, the majority of the places that were wiped off the face of the earth are back! Fellow Outposters, it’s now our time to return to the BVIs and let them know that we still consider them to be the true home of the sailing lifestyle! For hundreds of years these islands have been the things of which dreams were made. And, believe it or not, they have been through hundreds of hurricanes over the centuries. Yet they keep on coming back. Perserverance is the spirit of the islands and their people. You have to hear their stories first-hand to understand the grit these people have. The togetherness, the love of their fellow man, and how they feel about “their” islands are awe-inspiring. There is a reason these islands keep us coming back year after year: the people and their way of making you feel like you are home!

BVI Welcome Back Specials for February 1st thru 15th, 2019

20% discount The Nanny Cay Hotel is offering a 20% discount during the event. A great boutique hotel. www. nannycay.com/hotel

Save $250 on any new MarineMax Vacations power catamaran vacation booked bet ween Feb 1st–15th, 2019. www.marinemax.com

10% Discount Off Rally Fees! The Salty Dawg Rally from Hampton, VA to the Caribbean departing on 11/3, to arrive in the BVIs by 11/15. www.saltydawgsailing.org

10% off all instruction & licensing at the BVI base, location on Scrub Island. www.offshoresailing.com

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$200 off Cruising Outpostʻs Share-the-Sail “By-the-Cabin Flotilla Charter” www.cruisingoutpost.com

Special rates during the event. www.proteuscharters.com WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/2/18 11:19 AM

Febr uar y 1s t thr u 15th, 2019 And Now It’s Our Turn... The people of the BVIs have done what they had to do, and they have done so spectacularly. Now it’s our turn. We get to return and show them how much we appreciate the islands, and most of all, the culture that has made these islands the home of cruising sailors since the days of Captain Morgan. From February 1st through the 15th, the people of the islands have invited us to come back and see just how much they have accomplished. Join us as we sail from island to island, patronizing the places that have welcomed us for years, celebrating the islanders’ rebuilding. Those of you sailing there on your own boats, join us during our cruise, letting the islanders know that we feel like family and are there to support them. Don’t have time to sail there? Join the Outpost crew on our Share the Sail from February 2nd through the 9th. Our flotilla has space “by the cabin,” so couples, singles and/or groups can find space on our boats, with our staff there to help guide you. Just go to www. cruisingoutpost.com/sharethesail. This is our chance to show the people of the BVIs what they mean to us. The time of year should be perfect as can be, and the islands are just waiting for us to come!

BVI Welcome Back Specials for February 1st thru 15th, 2019

Daily Happy Hour in the North Sound: $4 rum punch & Painkillers, $1 off beer, wine by the glass, and well drinks. Everyday from 4–7 pm. w w w.leverickbay.com

Free Night & Champagne Conch offers a “free night” stay aboard with free champagne to all charters during this event! w w w.conchcharters.com www.cruisingoutpost.com

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50% off overnight marina slip. The 50% discount will apply to your entire stay. Mention this ad at of booking (877) 890-7444. Restrictions apply. Valid February 1st–15th, 2018.

Stay updated on the special deals as they are announced by watching the BVI section of our Share the Sail area. www.cruisingoutpost.com

Aaaargh! Get your free 8oz Voodoo Rum Punch with a purchase of any food item. Ye be limited to 1 per customer, but that should do it! w w w.corsairsbvi.com

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He lp We lcome Back the BVIs

Myett’s Cane Garden Bay is now Pusser’s, but it still has great food and drinks and a beautiful view. Come join them.

The Willy T is moving to Great Harbour on Peter Island. Be sure to stop by and say “Hi!”

Vinny from Corsairs on Jost Van Dyke is ready, able, and willing to make your stay a fun one! Come by and say “Hi.”

The Anegada Reef Bar is one of the best places to stop for a cold one while visiting the island. Stop by and see why!

The folks at the Bitter End Yacht Club are hard at it, and they hope to be open soon. We’ll keep you informed on our website!

Scrub Island Resort is ready, able, and willing to make your stay as good as it gets! All facilities are open and waiting!

Peg Leg’s on Nanny Cay is now open and serving meals and drinks on their beautiful white-sand beach.

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Cow Wreck Beach, our favorite in the islands, is open for all with their “honor bar” and great burgers! www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/2/18 11:20 AM

Febr uar y 1s t thr u 15th, 2019

Leverick Bay will be the site of one of our Sharethe-Sail Parties while cruising the area!

Foxy’s on Jost Van Dyke is open for rum, jokes by Foxy, and shakin’ your thing on the dance floor. “Come one, come all.”

Conch Charters is offering special rates to cruisers for this event!

The folks at Jost Van Dyke Scuba are filling scuba tanks and taking people out diving! www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Cruising Outpost 57 11/2/18 11:20 AM

Welcome Back

Cruising Outpost’s February 2nd Reserve Early This Will Fill Fast!

This is a by-the-cabin flotilla Share The Sail event. We supply the catamarans, food, fuel, insurance, and a staff member. Everyone shares the piloting, navigation, cooking, sailing, and events.

Come and sail the most popular sailing grounds on Earth!

Don’t Dream Your Life... ...Live Your Dream Live Music 58 Cruising Outpost

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With The fun staff and crew at Cruising Outpost. See what the cruising lifestyle is REALLY like! WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/4/18 4:26 PM

“ T

To The BVIs

“SHARE THE SAIL” Thru 9th, 2019 Join Bob and Jody and the family and friends of Cruising Outpost welcoming the BVIs “back online!” Spend 7 days and nights cruising the beautiful British Virgin Islands. We will have events with live music, drinks and pupus at a number of cruiser hangouts and join with other cruiser’s to Welcome Back The BVIs

All boats are catamarans and offer double cabins with en suite heads.

Wanna See About Joining Us?

www.cruisingoutpost.com/sharethesail Email: Jody@cruisingoutpost.com 510-900-3616

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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WE CAN GET YOU THERE...

Ready to get your cruising life started? From helping you find that perfect-for-you vessel, to fine-tuning the vessel you already have, B&G Marine Services is the perfect partner to help ensure your cruising experience is everything you want it to be. With service locations in New England and the British Virgin Islands, we offer a full complement of refit and supporting services, and are known for producing high-quality work and providing first-class customer service. To discuss what we can do for you, give us a call on +1-401-324-9569 , or send us an email at info@bgbvi.com - no matter what you need, we’re always happy to help.

bgbvi.com 60 Cruising Outpost

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11/2/18 11:39 AM

E S I D A R A P IVING L

ly Graza

By Emi

Emily driving to Highbourne Cay

The beginning of our boating adventure was about rushing. Heading south as quickly as possible. Escaping the cold, escaping the middle of America, escaping everything we left behind that was familiar or holding us back. Fiftymile days all down the rivers. Overnight passage after overnight passage in the Gulf and the

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Keys. We didn’t realize how much we had pushed ourselves until we were ﬁnally sitting still. Amidst the go-go-go, we had constantly been working to make our boat functional: wiring the radio, ﬁxing the holding tank, and connecting a hose to the bilge pump and making it

Grace driving through chop to Nassau

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Paradise Living automatic. Then we had to work out our own schedules and contemplate some big questions: What food could we eat? Do eggs really not need to be refrigerated? Whose turn was it to write a blog post? We kept this up through the Bahamas. We crossed from Marathon, Florida to Cat Cay and Ready to snorkel in were greeted with water a color blue I’d only the Berry Islands seen in pictures. The weather was finally warm, and we were cruising with new friends, so we spent our first week sailing to various islands while taking in the sun and singing Styx’s “Come Sail Away” at the top of our lungs. Arriving in the Bahamas didn’t mean instant relaxation, though. In fact, our first two weeks there included some of the toughest days of sailing of our whole trip. We spent long days Emily and Grace crossing the Grand Bahama Bank, cruising around the at Flip Flop Berry Islands, New Providence, and the Exumas, Beach, and sailing through four-to-six-foot waves, usually Exuma with a head wind. It was challenging. Being below deck was a recipe for sea sickness. Grace and I would take turns sprinting down below to grab peanut butter or granola bars before the nausea kicked in. Despite the rough conditions, it was also some of the most fun sailing we had experienced this entire trip. We caught king mackerel and mahi mahi during the day and sailed under a myriad of stars and through phosphorescence at night. After those first weeks in the Bahamas, I felt like a real-life Moana, able to handle whatever the ocean sent my way. After those two weeks something serendipitous happened: we arrived in George Town, Exuma. Arriving in George Town felt like breathing out a sigh of relief we didn’t realize we had been holding in. We got there during Regatta, which meant there were about 250 other boats in Elizabeth Harbor. We intended to stay for only a few days, but soon realized that George Town was less of a quick-stopping point and more of a way of life. Every morning at promptly 8: a.m., Bill on s/v Charisma would broadcast a Cruisers’ Net on Channel 68, during which new arrivals to Elizabeth Harbor would be welcomed, departures announced, boat items Cruising friend Mike offered up for “Buy, Sell, and Trade,” and local Sutherland s/v Samadhi helped Emily and Grace events advertised. The only reason anyone on s/v Elpis take second in knew the day of the week was because of class in the Regatta poker, which was held every Tuesday and

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11/1/18 4:46 PM

Emily and Grace Do the Bahamas Grace and the pigs at Staniel Cay

Thursday evening. Most people didn’t have cell phone plans, so VHF radios were used as the primary method of communication. People of all ages gathered every afternoon on nearby beaches, always ready to give cruising advice, assist with a boat project, or just share a drink. Now that we had stopped rushing, we were able to work on maintaining a way of life. Things we needed to maintain included: Money. Our friend said, “Spending money is for rich people.” How could we spend less money in a place where groceries cost at least twice as much as in the States? A pint of ice cream, much to Grace’s dismay, was $9. Solution? Catch fish. Learn to filet. And maybe get some breadcrumbs because I’m not totally sold on fish yet. Occasionally splurge on a pack of 12

Emily and two yellowfin tuna caught at Black Point

Sunset over Elizabeth Harbor

www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Paradise Living Sailing friends we made in the Exumas (left to right) Holly, Madde, Emily, and Will

Eating the king mackerel we caught

View of Elpis (our boat) and the George Town anchorage

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Emily at the lighthouse at Hope Town in the Abacos

cheese sticks and eat all of them in one day, because we don’t have refrigeration. Energy. We arrived in George Town exhausted. A friend visited when we first arrived, took one look at us, and said, “You guys look like you just sailed a Mackinac Race.” We spent our time in George Town committed to relaxing. Every day we put on bathing suits. Grace would swim and dive and spear fish. I’d string my hammock up between the mast and forestay and read or listen to music or reflect on how I was the happiest at that very moment a human could possibly be. Friendship. Spending every day for months within ten feet of each other can get old, no matter how much Grace and I seem to have turned into the same person. Occasionally, we had to work to maintain a sense of peace and balance. It helped that we would spend time in different social circles. Grace, more of a people person, loved to socialize at poker games and participate in Regatta activities. I preferred reading and hanging out during the evening on friends’ boats. We often shared sunset cocktails, laughed with each other as we took ocean showers, and had daily life talks about how we are the luckiest people in the world. We decided that when we returned to Detroit, we would only talk on VHF handhelds instead of cell phones—and we’d arrive at each other’s houses and announce our presence by conch horn. One of our favorite parts about George Town was meeting people close to us in age who were out living on the ocean rather than working in an office. We learned we were not the only ones who www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/1/18 4:47 PM

Emily and Grace Do the Bahamas

Emily and Grace during the George Town Cruising Regatta

Grace dropped a dish and then found a friend in Hope Town, Abacos

dreaded the thought of a 9-to-5 job or aren’t interested in settling down right away. In fact, after getting to know these peoples’ stories, suddenly our own journey seemed way less crazy. There’s also something about being on the ocean that bonds people in a way that would never happen otherwise. Every relationship formed is accelerated and intensified because we spend hours each day and night in each other’s company, making the most of our time together before we sail on to new places, unsure of the next time our paths will cross. It’s strange how we meet the people we do at the times we do. The universe is unpredictable. We found ourselves eating fish and lobster speared by new friends just a few hours prior, discussing all the places we’d traveled and our craziest ocean conditions. We spent late nights rafting up dinghies and drifting under the Bahamian midnight stars. We had found boat people with the same desire for adventure, whose homes float around from place to place, and we soon began to refer to ourselves as an “ocean family.” Sadly, our time in George Town had to come to an end. We pulled anchor, overwhelmed with gratitude for the memories made in a little piece of

Lynn (Grace’s sister) visits Elpis in the Abacos

Sailing into Cat Cay

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Paradise Living “Ocean family” dinner at Lumina Point in George Town

Grace changing the thermostat

The beach at Black Point, Exuma

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paradise. On to the next adventure: the Abaco Islands. Cruising the Abacos had an entirely different feel than cruising in Exuma. We spent more time in small towns, feeling like we were playing right into the role of tourist. With the help of new friends with a fast center-console, Grace and I were able to maximize our time at different settlements trying rum drinks and sampling conch fritters at what felt like nearly every restaurant in the Abacos. My favorite part was the water. Although Grace, always fearless, had fully embraced snorkeling and spear fishing from the minute we got to the Bahamas, I had spent my time in Exuma pretty hesitant about being in the water (hello, sharks?). However, in the Abacos, I decided I needed to face my ocean fears, so I went snorkeling for the first time. Life. Changing. Hidden just feet below the water were an innumerable amount of fish spanning the spectrum of the rainbow and in every pattern imaginable.; coral heads of all shapes and sizes; and plants waving up from the bottom of the ocean. It was terrifying and breathtaking all at once. When we weren’t eating conch fritters or splashing around in the clear blues of the ocean, I spent a lot of time reflecting on our Bahamas trip. Being there, particularly in George Town, drove home some really important lessons: There are some really cool people in this world. They are out there looking for unique experiences while living simply, boldly, and genuinely. Most people are good people. No one judged me when I had gone eight days without showering— although none of us were showering, so we all probably smelled bad and just couldn’t tell. It’s the people that make an event as good as it is, not the place. Although, being in the Bahamas probably doesn’t hurt. It really doesn’t matter where you went to school, how much money you have, or what brand your clothes are. We’re all just wearing bathing suits anyway. I think I went weeks at a time without wearing shoes, even at the grocery store, which I later regretted. There’s a lot of bacteria on bathroom floors, you know? Don’t get me wrong, there were definitely challenging moments. Chartreuse (our engine) has a cooling system that is temperamental. If you’re wondering how long it takes before www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/1/18 4:47 PM

Emily and Grace Do the Bahamas you get tired of eating oatmeal every day for breakfast, the answer is six months. There was no pump out in the Bahamas. Not having a consistent internet connection made it difficult to complete the necessary tasks to prepare for grad school. But all of that is so inconsequential in the grand scheme of things. Living on the hook there was like living in paradise. You know what the hardest part of being in the Bahamas was? Leaving. I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have asked for better memories or better people with which to share them. The relationships formed while traveling are so strange and bittersweet because they are transient and fleeting, but they also teach us to trust that people who are meant to come into our lives will, particularly when we least expect it. Every day of the journey I wondered if I was the happiest person in the world. Every day I said, thank you, universe. Sailing into the sunset as we leave the Bahamas for the United States

www.cruisingoutpost.com

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What’s Out There?

C ruising Monohull

Catalina Yachts is known for bringing more people into sailing than any other company. For 50 years they have created some of the most popular boat designs ever built, and the Catalina 425 is an all-new redesign of one of its most popular sized vessels. The 425 features a spacious cockpit, a carefully detailed interior, and all the “5 Series” features that Catalina is famous for. The cockpit offers twin helms on pedestals with pre-stretched cables. There are six large, fixed ports recessed into the hull for light and visibility. A self-tacking jib and jib traveler are standard, and main and jib sheets are lead to the helm for efficient short-handed sailing. Below and forward you’ll find the owner’s cabin with a large centerline berth and an elevating adjustable mattress. There are starboard and port aft cabins; the latter is easily convertible to a storage cabin with a gull wing cockpit hatch. A central accessible mechanical space provides excellent access to primary engine, generator, water heater and air conditioners, which simplifies maintenance and inspections necessary for systems reliability. Yup, it looks like, once again, Catalina has jumped to the front of the line with this perfect sized cruiser. For more info you can go to their website at: www. catalinayachts.com.

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11/1/18 11:53 AM

Catalina 425

Get all the facts:

www. catalinayachts.com.

Catalina 425 LOA

43’6”

LWL 39’1” Draft fin / Wing Beam

7,000 lbs.

Power

57 hp Yanmar

Fresh Water

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13’ 8”

Ballast Fuel

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6’8” / 4’11”

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What’s Out There?

This new design from the folks at Maine Cat features comfort, fast sailing, and electric drives! On the open bridgedeck you will find large, tempered, sliding glass windows that offer protection from the weather while still allowing for great visibility and greater airflow for your comfort. To offer a drier ride, this cat has been designed with flared hulls with a protective shoulder, which also serves to increase the interior area for more living space below. The twin daggerboards allow you to sail 35 degrees to the AWA sailing upwind, while providing shoal draft when you get close in and want to enter the shallows that are always so tempting and free of other boats—a true gunkholer’s delight!

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C ruising C atamaran

The lightweight, thermo-formed Core-Cell cored resin-infused interior cabinetry is cherry-framed with caned panel doors that allow ventilation in cabinets, which will help avoid mold. When the electric outboards are hydraulically lowered while sailing at 9 knots, they hydro-generate one kW per hour back into the 15,000 Wh bank of Li-ion batteries. This truly novel design has moved us into the 21st century with light performance cruising that has the ability to produce its own power. If you’d like to get more information on this new Maine Cat, all you have to do is contact Dick or Lynn at Maine Cat: www.mecat.com.

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11/1/18 11:56 AM

Maine Cat MC38

Get all the facts: www.mecat.com

Maine Cat MC38 LOA 38’ LWL 37’ Draft Board Up/Down 2’ 9” to 6’6” Beam 21’ Power Twin 4 kW electric outboard Propulsion Li bank 10,000 Wh Fresh Water 82 gallons Displacement 12,400 lb Headroom 6’7” www.cruisingoutpost.com

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What’s Out There?

Grand Banks has been building classic cruisers for over 60 years. This Eastbay 44 is a new design, based on years of experience in building their classic line. Six people can cruise comfortably in this threecabin design. The full-beam cockpit and salon are open and spacious, and the layout of the boat sets it up to be great for entertaining. A deep-V hull makes for a smooth ride and easy docking, while large electric windows let in the cool summer breezes. The beautiful teak interior shows off the craftsmanship for which the Grand Banks has become famous.

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Power C ruiser

A hatch in the cockpit makes the engine room easy to access. And, once you’re in there, you will find everything has been thoroughly thought through. You’ll see clean wiring harnesses, fiberglass battery boxes, and all the little things you’d expect from the folks at Grand Banks. With the growing popularity of power cruisers, this vessel is designed with the cruiser in mind. She handles easily and looks great! If you’d like more information about the new EastBay 44, go to www. grandbanks.com.

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11/1/18 11:58 AM

Grand Banks EastBay 44

Get all the facts:

https://grandbanks.com

EastBay 44 LOA 48’1” LOD 43’6” Draft 3’5” Beam 14’7” Power Volvo IPS 600 Fuel 581 US gal Fresh Water 194 US gal Waste-Water Displacement (Dry) www.cruisingoutpost.com

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41 US gal 29,700 lbs

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Cr uising Ou t pos tʻs Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

By Jessie Zevalkink, 2018

“I’ve never experienced so much joy, and so much heartache from any other woman.” - Jim Zevalkink (Jessie’s father)

From the cockpit of this 1962 classic I smell the teak while it dries itself of condensation. I smell the brass on my fingertips from the compass housing. When the breeze wraps around the dodger just right, I smell diesel from yesterday’s maintenance. The combings rest in the middle of my back, just high enough for support, just protective enough to keep a dry cockpit, and the primary and secondary winches coil with sheets in methodical figure-eights. Our Hydrovane and self-steering system, “Penny,” is mounted on the stern as my only companion. A brand new set of Hyde Sails are stacked away neatly under their covers. Steam leaks from the companionway and the tea kettle’s high pitch signals its contents have reached temperature. I can see my reflection in the cedar boom when I stand.

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I step below to brew my coffee and my footsteps do not give way. She is a heavy, fiberglass boat, persistent in her stability. It takes zero steps to complete my tasks in the galley, my arms easily reaching everything I need. It takes just six steps to make it to the head, just seven steps to the forepeak. Headroom is no concern for me, but then again I am only 5’2”. Under the bulbous dog house, I can stand on end with my arms reached over head. One step down into the saloon and I can do the same. The floor is lined with mahogany, and storage is pieced together tastefully with wooden drawers, cupboards, and trim. Empty space is filled with white Formica. Captain navy cushions rest atop two 35-gallon water tanks. A puddle the size of a halfdollar pools on the starboard

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side cushion, where it sneaks through its original chromed brass porthole. The gimballed lantern is at head height, and looks as if it was taken from a castle, intricate and elegant. The “Force 10” propane heater mounted on the opposite bulkhead heats the main cabin greatly (when you can get the pilot light working). As I move towards the bow there is just enough space for two people to pass, but not without touching. Usually, one person steps into the head while the other passes. His and her closets are lined with Gill foul weather gear, some brand new, some from the ‘70s, with the heavy garments hung on wooden hangers, the light garments on plastic

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to save space, and the bare, intermittent wire hangers that have been saved in case of an emergency. Everyone knows there is no better tool on a sailboat than a wire hanger. You can smell the years, imagine the stories from the eclectic thrift-store mix strewn in the closets. The forepeak opens up providing gracious space, where three supine humans could easily rest. Wooden shelves are planked with iroko. I am traveling in a forest of sorts that dampens and dries with the changes in weather. She holds you in with comfort, but allows for plenty of light and breeze to glide in. In 1962 S/V Desirée was designed by Bill Trip and built in Bristol, Rhode Island. The Pearson Invicta is 37.75 feet overall, and only 25 of those feet meet the waterline. Unique with her dramatic overhang and “bubble” cabin top, there were only 21 of them ever built. She is a rare bird and her design permanently influenced the course of sailboat design after it won a major ocean race. Bill Tripp proved fiberglass to be competitive with its wooden counter parts. In 1964, the Invicta placed 1st in its class during the Newport, Rhode Island to Bermuda race. With the Cruising Club of America in mind (CCA rule) its design met the needs for both safe family cruising and competitive ocean racing. In 1972 my father bought Desirée off of her original owner who housed her at the Chicago Yacht Club. Desirée had been a Great Lakes cruising boat fresh off the factory. For roughly 20,000 dollars it was his, and as a diesel mechanic back at his familyowned and operated logistics company, that boat was everything to him. He had to borrow half of the money for Desirée from his father—a small debt he worked off by turning wrenches. At 23 years old, my father and his best friend prepped to sail “America’s Great Loop.” One year later, after cruising the Mississippi River, Bahamas, Eastern Seaboard, Hudson River, Erie Canal and Canada’s “North Channel” he returned to Michigan having received what he calls “the greatest education he has ever had.”

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For a handful of years he raced Desirée in the “Queens Cup,” a race that goes from Milwaukee to Grand Haven. He later met my mother in the early ‘80s, a girl who was captivated by the adventures he took her on. Having grown up on the East Jessie at about Coast, she held great seven, sailing on love for the sea Desirée and being on the water. My father proposed to her on the bow of Desirée in 1982. They had my sister in ‘86, and I came along in ‘89. Desirée, my father’s first “daughter” who was then nearing 30, became less and less of a priority as my sister and I were needy munchkins. He stored Desirée in a barn for seven years until he felt we were old enough to go cruising. In the early ‘90s his inspiration was restored, and he poured his heart, time, and money back into boat work. He spent hours callousing his hands with

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projects while on the clock, after work, and into the late nights. One night he would come home covered in varnish and epoxy, the next in oil and diesel. Our first sailing trip as a family was in 1993. I was 4-1/2 years old and insisted on wearing a tutu everywhere I went. My sister was in her tomboy phase, and rocked a bowl cut and baggy clothes. We sailed through Lake Michigan and Lake Huron, and up the “North Channel” for a week or two. This became our tradition, and every summer we would sail away on Desirée to explore coves, Bahamian blue water, sand dunes, searching for the newest “secret” to uncover. We did this through my early teenage years, the last trip I can remember being when I had braces, and pierced my ears on the bow one night with a safety pin after Mom and Dad fell asleep. Back then, I was never anything more than a passenger along for the ride. It wasn’t until I was 21 when I found an appreciation for these adventures that I decided I cared about how to actually sail a sailboat. I realized it was a vehicle in which I could explore the world. In 2012 I bought a Cal 27 for $3500 on a whim with my best friend. Six months after purchasing Louise we sailed away from Michigan to cruise America’s Great Loop, which was inspired by my father’s trip in the ‘70s. Two years later, I could completely relate to my father’s commentary on his

www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/18 10:09 AM

Cr uising Ou t pos t’s Fe at ure d Ve teran Cr uising Ve sse l

trip: “It was the greatest education I have ever had.” I will never recover from the highest of highs and lowest of lows that I experienced during those years. After that trip I spent every minute I was on land dreaming up my next voyage, hoping to match the exhilaration I had felt. When I met my fiancée at the Annapolis Boat Show, I knew my future was mapped in the sea. After he proposed, we decided to plan a sailing trip instead of a wedding. spoiled to be borrowing it is an understatement. I sat my father down and asked him if we could borrow This boat has a grand story and I have made it my his boat, his first daughter, his love. He said “yes.” mission to keep writing it, of recording the joy I write to you from Conception Bay, brought to me when heeling hard over, or of Newfoundland, tied up at the Royal picking up speed when the overhanging Newfoundland Yacht Club with a list freeboard taps the waterline. I’ll write of projects laid out in front of me. of the serenity felt when waking It took us two months to sail here up at anchor, sipping coffee in from Michigan, and we have isolation, watching the fog lift, reached our halfway point, 2100 and receiving friendly welcomes miles into the trip. In a matter of from local wildlife. I won’t leave days we will cross to our North out the burning heartache of Atlantic destination, Falmouth, when the engine has a massive England, another 2000 miles. It is oil leak and has to be rebuilt and hard to watch the salt devour the re-installed myself, or when the Jessie & her father teak of old Desirée, to watch the teak cap rail gets smashed against (The Wizard)) evolution of colors as they fade, the the dock in a gale. shine deteriorate, and her ship-shape Caring for a boat is a very simple tidiness just sitting at a dock, shifting cycle that must be approached with in the wake of an ocean-going work strong will and gratefulness. We are horse. Her upkeep and maintenance are indebted to our sailing vessels, for they up to me now. I’ve promised my father I will provide us with our greatest stories. Desirée is return his boat. I’ve promised myself I will return her certainly becoming mine as we work towards an “even in the same condition he’s loaned her in. greater education” together, though she has years on me This heavily constructed yawl holds some of and I may never be as wise. She will likely outlive us all, my earliest memories; some of my fondest. It is a yet in her long life we may be, in return for all she has to privilege to be traveling in this vessel. Saying I am offer, one of her greatest joys and heartaches.

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s m a e r D Do

e m Co e u r T By Koa Cladianos

I’m sitting under the stars, 70 miles outside of Bora Bora, aboard Scallywag, a Beneteau Oceanis 55 inbound to Palmerston, Cook Islands. It is 5:40 a.m. and the sun’s rays have just begun to illuminate the horizon. The full light spectrum is in view. A deep red meeting the sea leads all the way to a mellow violet that connects with the diminishing night’s stars. I begin to ponder how I made it to such a magniﬁcent place. One year ago the Cook Islands were just a name that would catch my eye as I casually looked at a world map. Now they would be the next land I saw after nearly a 700-mile

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11/2/18 9:53 AM

 Quiet-Smooth operation  Low wind energy production  Marine grade - 5 yr warranty  12-24-48V / 13 lbs  165,000 installed since 1995  Made in the USA

passage. Only yesterday I spoke with the chief about what goods he may need us to bring from French Polynesia (a tip we had read about on noonsite.com). Now we are carrying 80 kilograms of sugar and 50 packs of tobacco for the island’s 60 inhabitants. Back in November 2016, getting ready to go to my first Arizona Yacht Club meeting, I Cruising Outpost 81

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asked myself, “What does one wear to a yacht club?” After a quick Google search, I decided on a polo shirt. At 21 years old, and determined to find a way to sail around the world, I was grateful to be welcomed into the club with open arms. However, following the conversations was a challenge. Was there a difference between a jibe and gybe? A boom and halyard? Were these all English words? Surely not! “Fake it till you make it,” I thought! It was a successful night, as I was invited to crew in a race coming up in a couple months. In the meantime I would take an ASA adult learnto-sale course. It was a calm winter morning on the banks of Tempe town lake. Our instructor Victor was going around the room asking everyone why they wanted to take this course. I was sitting in the back and one of the last to share. My response to the question: “I want to sail around the world.” There seemed to be a bit of staleness in the air; maybe it was comical disbelief that I felt from the room. This was my dream they were dismissing, but I paid them no attention. I fell in love that day on the lake. I can clearly remember the first time I took the tiller under the smooth power of the wind. My ancestry is Greek and Hawaiian, so in this moment I thought of my ancestors and their infamous sailing reputations. It was a truly magical experience. I was hooked. After the course, Victor said that if I really wanted to sail the world, then first I needed to learn how to fix a boat. Well, he really said, “A monkey can sail, but it can’t fix a boat.” He and his good friend Bruce had just started a sailing school, Tiller and Kites. He told me to give him a call in about a month and he would think of a way that he could help me along on my journey. I let out a sigh of relief as someone actually paid attention to my sailing aspirations. The next time I spoke with Victor he said I could come work at the yard. They would teach me how to fix an old Cal 21, and in return it would be mine!

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Shortly after my graduation from Arizona State University in May 2017, there I was in possibly the only boat yard in the metro Phoenix area. My plan was to learn as much as I could at Tiller and Kites then head to Miami, where I would use my new skills to find a position as crew and head out onto the ocean. Throughout the 120-degree summer in Arizona, the Cal 21 underwent some major upgrades. The inside layers of mud and dust were removed. The cabin was painted. All the wood that could be saved was sanded and revarnished. The other pieces were remade. Rigging was supplied from many combinations of spare pieces from around the yard. Everyday was a new lesson. Some days I would spend at the lake (actually sailing!), while others would be in the yard working on my boat or others that came into the shop. During lunch we would talk about racing strategies or the uses of the different knots. I felt like sailing’s version of the Karate Kid. Over time, less and less of these sailing words sounded foreign. I was starting to become a sailor! I went back to my home in Reno, Nevada for three months where I hired a friend to help me paint houses. When I had saved up enough money I headed back to Phoenix. After seeing the blog of Katie and Jessie, of katieandjessieonaboat.com and Cruising Outpost fame, I was more than inspired. We decided that Miami was not the best idea, that instead I should take the Cal 21 and give the inland rivers of the Great Loop a shot. Tiller and Kites would even supply a Nissan 9.8 outboard to go with the boat. It would give me an interesting story and an experience I could only get on my own boat. I always had my bearing set on open-ocean cruising, but this would get me there—I knew it! I printed some business cards and started my YouTube channel. I figured this would help me meet other cruisers, and show them I was serious. Since I didn’t know exactly how this trip could translate to my ocean expedition as a crew member, I figured every edge helped. I decided to name my boat Cladi Kai, which means “Cladianos to the sea.” Kai is Hawaiian for sea. November 18, 2017—the day the journey began. Cladi Kai was securely latched behind my Penske truck, ready to be towed across the country to Grand Rivers, Kentucky. Looking at my new boat all supplied and ready to go made my imagination run wild. Where would this journey take me? Tiller and Kites had one more gift to give. They had talked to their sponsor, Mauri Pro Sailing, and Mauri Pro agreed to sponsor my trip! On the way I would stop in Dallas and pick up some sailing gear! Let the adventure begin! www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Lifestyle A Look at Why We Do What We Do

Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Lifestyle section, folks from all over the world give an insight into what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic, in as high resolution as you can. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Lifestyle@Cruisingoutpost.com.

By Debbie Kolod, sailing in Cuba

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Photo is taken from and by s/v Vata of Ontario, Canada that became disabled (rudder failure) during their Pacific Ocean crossing. s/v Vata was towed under sail by the Canadian sailing catamaran Element for 6 days across 680 NM of open ocean to safe harbor in Hiva, Oa

By Terry Hogan, Common Sense in the Dismal Swamp

By John Simpson, Airisalg

By Will, rainbow over Yorktown, VA

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By Carol, taken at Pirateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cove in Josephine, AL

By Cindy Holden Continent to Continent! Tenacity arrives at the Portugal coast!

By Todd Townsend, of his new Albin Vega 27 coming home to Muskeegon from Milwaukee

By Vinnie, of Bobbie Vurro chillin on the hook in Key West, FL

Of Cheryl sailing into port from Lake Michigan

What are flat-earthers afraid of? The only thing they fear is sphere itself.

Tara and Emma, Ft. Myers Beach, Florida

By Sailor Dave in the Exumas www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Elsa loves dinghy rides. This picture was taken at Sucia Island State Park a couple years back up in the San Juan Islands of Washington State.

By Richard Northrup

By Gary Czarnecki, 51â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Formosa s/v Eagle in Catalina Islands Avalon Harbor. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very rare to be there all alone!

By Lauri, Captain Chuck aboard Free Spirit with the Monument of the Kon Tiki on Raroa.

By Chris Stokes, Ruthie (7), Vivian (6), and Frances (5) Stokes lounge on the trampoline watched by their mother Alisha Stokes

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By Terri Potts-Chattaway, La Cruz Kids Club Burgees

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10/30/18 9:58 AM

Lauren and Noah Shimabukuro’s wedding off of Waikiki on Lee Libby’s boat. A perfect day and they jumped off the boat to celebrate!

Jolly Rover Crew - Captain Rio with Mr. O’Conner and Ishmael

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Why do people pay to go up tall buildings and then put money in binoculars to look at things on the ground?Â

Brian and Alisha, the view from Sausalito

By A. J. Bueche in Provincetown. Steel boat doing the bottom-one side at tide

By Rob Webb

By Suzie Boudreaul, the Toronto skyline at dusk. Taken while aboard her sloop Suzie B.

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Why do people pay to go up tall buildings and then put money in binoculars to look at things on the ground?Â

By Ron Koris, of a cat that needs to go on the wagon!

By Anna & Richard Jackson, Lats&Atts fans in Hydra, Greece

By Nels Neumann, Snickers, Coda, and Hanse sailing the San Diego Bay

By Brian Duckett, Remi Taylor on Las Lunas in Berkeley, CA

By Rob Bondy, up Canada way

By Amy Norton, first bareboat charter

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Barge landing at Little Diomede, AK. Hey, barges are boats too ya know.

By Steve Harrington, Sandy doing her ASA 103 Coastal Cruising Lessons in San Diego

Travis, sailing off San Pedro

By Bill Williams, Rio Chagres and Sno Virgin

By Russ & Lori Rackliffe, Bahamas

By Gary, sailing through the Philippines

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By Curt Albro, out the porthole on Namahana

By Founder Terry Boram, of 9-month-old Newfoundland, Raven, a true boat dog. She enjoys the South Florida sunset as much as we do

Mark Kramer, BVIs

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By Krys McMeekin aboard Axara, a Hanse 342, during a summer cruise on the Bay of Quinte

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By Ray Muzika, Charleston, NC

By Bob Bear, Stephanie raising the jib on s/v Inuit, a Martin 29. Taken while going for a sail on Indian Arm of Burrard Inlet, British Columbia, Canada

The Kerry D at Cambridge Beaches, Bermuda

By Cheryl Bular, Chicago to Mac race

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By Cate & Steve Baldwin, their 38â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Endeavour, Island Fever, docked amongst the dancing night lights of the big city with the CN Tower above

By Captain Joe, Wendy snorkling

Tim Kenyon on Ranger Tug 21 at 7 knots on Lake Madison, SD

By Ric Bischoff, Exumas, Bahamas

By Ralph Erickson, sunset in Mystic

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Cruising the West Gales, Fog, Otters, Whales & Redwoods It Doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Get Any Better!! by Suzy Carmody, s/v Distant Drummer

Port Angeles, Washington

Santa Barbara, California

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Coast

It was one of the coldest winters on record in southern British Columbia. In June 2016 we had sailed across from Hawaii to Sitka in southeast Alaska aboard Distant Drummer, our Liberty 458 sloop. After enjoying a summer of leisurely cruising through the Inside Passage in Alaska and British Columbia, we reached Canoe Cove on Vancouver Island where we had decided to haul out for the winter. All through the winter we were living on board and, as we shovelled snow off the decks and slithered across the ice to the washrooms, it was dreams of hot sunny California days that kept us going. We were waiting for a big fat high to settle in the northeast Pacific, which would provide a steady northerly wind for the passage south. Our plan was to spend the summer following the sun southward down the California coast.

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SEA FROST ÂŽ

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Cruising the West Coast Leaving the Pacific Northwest Fog is a summertime hazard in the Pacific Northwest; we encountered it in Alaska and British Columbia and it continued to plague us all the way down through northern California. Having spent a glorious spring cruising in the Puget Sound and the Strait of Georgia, we re-entered the U.S. at Port Angeles on the Olympic Peninsula. It was a crisp, bright morning when we left Canoe Cove in B.C., but we arrived at Port Angeles in fog so thick we could not see the lighthouse at the end of the sand spit although we passed it only 100 meters away. The low frequency blasts of the fog horns of ships in the Strait of Juan de Fuca sounded bovine and mournful as we passed them in the murk. Neah Bay is the last port of call before leaving the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The bay is part of the Makah American Indian Reservation

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Gales, Fog, Otters, Whales & Redwoods

and is the site of the Ozette Village which was buried by a mudslide in 1560. Nothing was known of the village until a storm in 1970 which exposed some of the remains and archaeologists have since uncovered six long houses. The story and numerous artifacts are displayed in the Makah Museum in the village. Boats heading south tend to gather in Neah Bay to re-fuel, to discuss the weather and the best route to take, and to wait for the right weather to leave. There are two strategies for heading south. The inshore route is prone to coastal hazards, such as crab pots, fog, and heavy shipping, but enables visits to ports in Washington and Oregon along the way. The offshore route (60–100 nautical miles offshore) is the faster passage; it has stronger winds and higher seas, but adds extra miles to the voyage. Many of the harbors on the Washington coast have bar entrances which are treacherous when a big Paciﬁc swell rolls in from the west. We were interested in visiting some of these ports but they are often closed during bad weather and it’s not uncommon to be locked in for several days. We were keen to see some of that California sunshine, so we rounded Cape Flattery and headed offshore.

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Cruising the West Coast

For the first couple of days of the passage we had perfect sailing conditions; we were 60 nautical miles out, had glorious sunshine and a 15â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20 knot northerly breeze, and we were going south! Later, a small low brought headwinds and then calm and more fog. Four days into the passage we were approaching Cape Mendocino, a cape with a very bad reputation, and gales were in the forecast. We decided to break the journey and sit out the bad weather in Crescent City, a town lying just south of the Oregon border and our first landfall in California. We anchored inside the breakwater off the river mouth, there was not much swell in the anchorage but we were still buffeted by the northerly winds. Crescent City was established in the 1850s during the California gold rush, and must have been a wonderfully decadent and debauched place back then. In 1964 it was devastated by a tsunami and it seems to have been in

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decline ever since. Visiting Battery Point Lighthouse felt like a trip back in time. From the top of it we had a stunning view of the rocky shoreline northwards up the coast. It is just a short bus ride inland into the northernmost forests of California Redwoods. These magnificent trees grow over 70 meters tall and more than six meters in diameterâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; wandering amongst them with the sunlight piercing through the canopy was quite a spiritual experience. After waiting a week for a break in the strong-to-galeforce northerlies, we finally opted to motorsail around Cape Mendocino in light southerly headwinds, but with the favourable south-setting California Current. We enjoyed the company of pods of dolphins and watched humpback whales breach as we passed under Golden Gate Bridge. Unfortunately, it was so foggy we were unable to appreciate the spectacular entrance into San Francisco Bay, but we were glad to drop the anchor in Richardson www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/2/18 10:03 AM

Gales, Fog, Otters, Whales & Redwoods Bay off the Sausalito waterfront and spend a few days unwinding. San Francisco Bay The weather in the center of the Bay, an area known locally as the Slot, is determined by the inland lowpressure systems created by the very high temperatures in the Central Valley. In the morning, as the land heats up, fog is sucked through the Slot, billows in under the Gate, and rolls over the Sausalito hills. In the afternoons, as inland temperatures soar, the prevailing offshore winds are drawn into the Bay creating a strong, chilly, westerly breeze. Although Richardson Bay is huge, its average depth is about 1.5 meters and therefore inaccessible to most cruising sailboats. Visiting cruisers usually drop the pick close to the entrance of the bay where they are exposed to swell from across the Bay, boat traffic from Belvedere, as well as the afternoon sea breeze—all of which contribute to make it a fairly rolly anchorage. As compensation the view is quite incredible; Sausalito, Alcatraz Island, and the Golden Gate Bridge are close by with the San Francisco waterfront, the Bay Bridge, and Treasure Island in the background. After a week of sight-seeing in San Francisco we were satiated and in need of a rest! One of the best ways to get away from it all in the Bay area is a cruise up “the Delta”. The Sacramento and San Joachim Rivers drain into the northern end of San Francisco Bay forming a nest of flat, windswept islands and shallow, muddy channels. With shifting sand bars, and strong winds and tides, it helps to have some local knowledge. We set off for a long weekend exploring the Delta, buddyboating with seasoned Bay sailors, Sylvia and Barry, on Iolani, a Hughes 48 yawl. We anchored for the first night at China Camp, a cove on the southwest side of San Pablo Bay that was settled by Chinese shrimp-fishermen in the 1880s. Following the 1906 earthquake, the population swelled as residents from Chinatown fled the devastation. Now, the settlement is uninhabited and is a national park. The anchorage was sheltered from the strong tidal currents www.cruisingoutpost.com

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that sweep much of the Bay area, but was exposed to the wind. During the night the breeze swung around to the north and, in one particularly strong gust, dragged us over 200 meters before the anchor decided to reset. We were very glad it was a wide shelf with very few other boats around. Finding a balance between the wind and the tides for a passage up the Sacramento River makes the difference

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Cruising the West Coast

between having a fantastic sail or a slow bumpy ride. With a flood tide and a 15-knot westerly wind we had a fabulous sail through the Carquinez Strait and past the mouth of the Napa River. We held our breath as we passed under the railway bridge at Benicia (charted at 70’ vertical clearance at HHW) and then entered Suisun Bay where we sailed amongst the “Mothball Fleet,” a collection of World War II warships that form part of the National Defence Reserve Fleet. About eight of the vessels remain at Suisun, and it was fascinating to sail amongst these old relics of former glory. After passing by Pittsburgh, we anchored in a meander of the river behind Delta Island. The entrance to the anchorage is very shallow—we touched the muddy bottom several times—but the channel deepened again as we got further in, and we finally set the pick in five meters of water. The next day we motored through Three Mile Slough, a sinuous, narrow waterway that connects the Sacramento River to the San Joachim River. Then, once in the main channel, we hoisted the sails and had a leisurely trip up to Potato Slough against the ebbing tide. Potato Slough is made up of a number of channel loops known as “the dormitories.” We enjoyed paddling our inflatable kayak around the islands and channels, poking in amongst the reeds, and watching the cormorants roosting in the trees. The water was warm enough to swim and fresh enough to serve as a shower too—is this summer at last? We dinghied around to the Pirates Lair, a small marina and pub that is a popular haunt for sailors; it was a treat to prop up the bar and have a chat with some of the locals. We left the delta early in the morning, deciding

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Gales, Fog, Otters, Whales & Redwoods

to motor against a flood tide so we could pass through the Carquinez Strait on the early ebb tide before the westerly winds kicked in and made the water in the strait very choppy. We motorsailed across San Pablo Bay into the afternoon sea breeze and spent the last night of our delta expedition at anchor in Paradise Bay before returning to Sausalito the next day. Hopping Down the California Coast Mark Twain once said, “The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in San Francisco.” It was mid-summer but we still had not reached the warm water and sun drenched beaches we had been dreaming about—we needed to keep moving south. San Francisco to Half Moon Bay is an easy day sail and a convenient place to overnight on the way down the coast. We tucked in behind the breakwater at Pillar Point and took a walk along the cliff top enjoying great views of the harbor, the ocean, and Mavericks, the worldfamous big-wave surf break. Leaving Half Moon Bay we dodged crab pots, which are a constant hazard in the coastal waters of California; we always keep a careful lookout for them until we reach about 100 meters water depth. A light, northwesterly breeze filled in during the afternoon and we had a pleasant sail to Santa Cruz arriving just before sunset. Anchorage is possible on either side of the pier; the bay is calm and well protected but the noisy barking and grunting from the sea lion colony under the pier does tend to disturb the peace. Santa Cruz is a wonderfully, shamelessly, tacky place full of fairground kitsch. The pier and the amusement park on the boardwalk are a huge tourist draw, but most of the crowds were on the beach enjoying a warm summer day. The only downside to anchoring at Santa Cruz was the difficulty getting ashore. The public landing on the pier was the only place to tie up a dinghy, but was not very secure, subject to some swell, and often cluttered with sea lions. We crossed the bay to Monterey and dropped the pick in the harbour to the east of Fisherman’s Wharf. The anchorage was exposed to winds from the north, but luckily it was light and from the west-southwest, so we enjoyed a calm night. Monterey was a center for sardine packing until the industry collapsed in the 1950s due to over-fishing. We strolled past the old canning factories on Cannery Row, now converted into trendy shops and restaurants, but decided not to pay the breath-taking price for a ticket into the Aquarium, www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Cruising the West Coast

䈀漀挀愀猀䐀攀氀吀漀爀漀Ⰰ 倀愀渀愀洀愀

䘀甀氀氀匀攀爀瘀椀挀攀䴀愀爀椀渀愀泰䌀愀氀礀瀀猀漀䌀愀渀琀椀渀愀眀眀眀⸀戀漀挀愀猀洀愀爀椀渀愀⸀挀漀洀戀漀挀愀猀礀愀挀栀琀挀氀甀戀䀀礀愀栀漀漀⸀挀漀洀䠀愀甀氀伀甀琀夀愀爀搀泰㘀 ⴀ吀漀渀吀爀愀瘀攀氀椀昀琀眀眀眀⸀戀漀挀愀猀戀漀愀琀礀愀爀搀⸀挀漀洀戀漀挀愀猀礀愀挀栀琀猀攀爀瘀椀挀攀猀䀀礀愀栀漀漀⸀挀漀洀

as we probably see most of the exhibits from our back deck. The density and diversity of sea mammals on the west coast of California is remarkable—humpback whales, dolphins, and porpoises are often around when we are sailing; and in the harbors we had seals, sea lions, and sea otters as a constant source of entertainment. The overnight passage from Monterey to Morro Bay around Point Sur was a rip-roaring sail with a two-meter swell and wind gusting over 40 knots on the starboard beam. We rolled in the headsail and put three reefs in the main, but were still racing along at seven to eight knots—that’s fast for us! As dawn broke we saw that we

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had split a seam close to the top of the mainsail; it was not debilitating but did have to be hand sewn once we reached Morro Bay. Towards noon we rounded Morro Rock, the sugar loaf mountain which marks the entrance to the bay, and dropped anchor behind the sand spit in beautifully calm water. A colony of sea otters lives in Morro Bay at the foot of the Rock close to the anchorage. Throughout the nineteenth century sea otters were hunted almost to extinction in the Paciﬁc Northwest, but a small colony of thirty survived at San Luis Obispo, and the group in Morro Bay is made up of their descendants. It was great fun to watch them going about their business in the still water of the bay; their bodies sleek and sinuous as they dove then surfaced, clutching a clam and a rock. Their furry, whiskered faces seem to concentrate as they hit the clam with the rock to open it, then eat it and do it all over again. Southern California Sunshine Point Conception is the headland that marks the boundary between the mostly northwest-southeast trending coast in Northern California and the east-west trending coast of Southern California. It's also another cape with a bad reputation for strong winds and rough seas, but we had a beautiful sail with a 15–20 knot breeze in smooth seas. We rounded the Point and anchored for the night at Cojo Anchorage, a small cove just behind Point Conception with a fantastic view of the lighthouse. From Cojo it was a day sail to Santa Barbara where we dropped anchor east of Stern’s Wharf in 5–10 meter water. Santa Barbara is known as the “American Riviera”; the Spanish-style buildings, the long sandy beach, and the warm, sunny climate do give the city a Mediterranean feel. There was sunshine and blue sea, palm trees and beach volley ball—it was just like a Californian postcard. We had finally made it to a warm place! WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Life Aboard Living Aboard Two Boats!

Call us crazy, but one boat just wasn’t enough. OK, that wasn’t really the reason for the second boat. After 16-plus years of living aboard our 51-foot sailboat full time, we had been dreaming about spending our summers on the canals in Europe. When we ran into friends who couldn’t stop talking about their time aboard their canal boat, we decided to make the jump. Our sailboat, s/v Mermaid is currently in the Eastern Caribbean, where the summers are quite hot and hurricanes are possible. To escape the heat and humidity, and experience a nice change of scenery, we bought a 35foot powerboat in Holland in which to explore the canals. Our Boats: Mermaid is an Aleutian 51. She is a 51-footlong monohull, that is 14 feet wide and 8 feet deep. With three staterooms, two heads, and a wonderful pass-through galley, she is a very comfortable liveaboard and cruising sailboat. She has a large center cockpit for navigating and an aft cockpit with a nice gate and swim step which is great for snorkeling, swimming, and fishing. She’s very wellequipped for cruising with a Ford Lehman 120hp diesel engine, Kohler generator, 45-gallons-per-hour watermaker, an icemaker, Raymarine electronics, a single sideband radio, heat and air conditioning, and much more. We’ve covered a lot of water in our time aboard, having enjoyed exploring the South Pacific, Hawaiian Islands, West Coast

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of the USA, Mexico, Central America, Panama, Colombia, and the Caribbean aboard Mermaid. Compagnon is a Marak 10.6-meter, steel-hulled, shallow-draft Dutch motor yacht. She is 35 feet long, 13.5 feet wide and 3.3 feet deep, and very different than Mermaid. Compagnon is very simple and has few systems. She has two large staterooms, a head with a large shower, a large living area complete with an inside steering station as well as a cockpit with a steering station outside. She has a great diesel heater that comes in quite handy at the end of the season. The only instruments we really need aboard her are the depth sounder, thermostat, and tank levels. We enjoy exploring the rivers and canals of the Netherlands aboard Compagnon in the summer. So, what’s it like living aboard two boats you ask? Well, its the best of both worlds—most of the time. In the winter and spring we sail the islands in the Eastern Caribbean. There is a large liveaboard-cruising community in the islands, so lots of activities and fun. We swim and snorkel almost every day. The trade winds are almost always blowing from the east so moving up and down the northand-south-aligned chain of islands makes for perfect sailing. Plus, the islands are close together enough so that you can leave early in the morning and sail to your destination by www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Editor Robin Stout Aboard Mermaid

afternoon. We anchor out almost all the time and there are some fabulous, well-protected anchorages like Falmouth Harbor on Antigua and St. Anne or Le Marin on Martinique. We always enjoy the cultural diversity as we move up and down the island chain. The French islands like Guadalupe, Martinique, and St. Bart’s have great restaurants, fabulous breads, cheeses, yogurt, and wine. The English and Dutch islands like Antigua and St. Maarten have almost everything else one could need. Our cruising style is really just a very loose plan: ﬁnd somewhere we like and stay there until we’re ready to go somewhere else. Spending a little time in one place has allowed us to make friends on many of the islands and we always enjoy returning to see them. When hurricanes hit the islands, the liveaboards and cruisers are always coming to their aid with resources and help they need. To keep in touch we use the internet in coffee shops and restaurants and have radio nets in most areas so we hear what the weather is expected to do, what social activities are happening, and have a community ready to help if need be. By May the weather turns quite hot and the trade winds die down. This is when we head to whatever island has the yard at which we have decided to leave Mermaid on the hard. Living aboard two boats is also twice the work and worry, as well as more expensive. One boat is always stored on the hard. Also, we are insuring two boats. In order to leave Mermaid in the Caribbean for the summer we have to do a lot of work. We remove all sails and wash, dry, fold, and store them below. Next, we cover the dinghy and tie it down so it cannot blow away in a storm. Then we wash, dry, and pack all linens and clothing and vacuum pack them. Finally, we haul out and power-wash the hull and pack her away for the season with a dehumidiﬁer running. And, we do all this (and much, much more!) in the heat and WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Life Aboard

humidity. We leave Mermaid in the hands of good people who check on her weekly. While it’s always a relief to step aboard an airplane to fly to cooler weather, I never stop worrying about her. After 16 years of taking care of us, she is more than a boat or a home to me. Since the summer weather in the Caribbean is hot, humid, and stormy with the chance of hurricanes, and with Mermaid on the hard, we fly to Holland to launch Compagnon. This gives us the chance to explore a culture that is quite distinct from the Caribbean and learn a little Dutch. The Dutch language is very difficult—kind of like choking on a bunch of consonants—but most Dutch people speak perfect English, so it is easy to communicate. The

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summers in the Netherlands are quite lovely. We have had a couple of hot weeks, but mostly it’s just warm and beautiful during the day and cool at night. The cruising is easy (no ocean crossings!) as we are in rivers and canals and never more than a few feet from land. We tie up along the banks or in villages. Almost everywhere has bollards to tie to, and often docks as well. We use a great app in the Netherlands on our phones and iPad for navigating called Waterkaarten. This app has every bridge and lock with operating days and times as well as depths, heights, and widths which makes navigating easy. The people in the Netherlands are very much water and boating people, so things like dockage, haulouts, storage, mechanics, etc., are much less expensive than the Caribbean. For example: we haulout Compagnon and power-wash, winterize, and store her for nine months for the same cost as one month of just storage for Mermaid in the Caribbean. The people we speak to are always astonished that we are from California and spend the summers in Holland. They ask us why we would come to the Netherlands when we could spend the summer in the USA? We tell them it is beautiful in the Netherlands, that the people are wonderful, the cheese is the best in the world, and the beer is good, too. Also, the weekly village markets

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Living Aboard Two Boats!

are wonderful. The local farmers, cheese makers, fishermen and others gather to sell their goods. Everything is fresh and wonderful, I love it! When the summer draws to an end and the weather is cool and raining, it’s time to prepare Compagnon for her long winter nap. There is much less to do aboard this boat as there are fewer systems. Mostly we clean the boat, empty and clean the refrigerator, and vacuum pack the clothes and linens. The biggest part of the job is winterizing the engine and water systems. After she is hauled out and powerwashed, we put our bicycles and docklines in the cockpit and put her winter coat on. This is a large tarp that has been custom made for the boat that protects her from the wind and snow. We love the time we spend in the Caribbean, but it does have hurricanes. We also love our time in the Netherlands, but we’re limited by the Schengen Law which means that we can only spend 90 out of 180 days in the country. This limits us to a short summer. So, between our time in the Caribbean and the Netherlands, we spend about a month visiting family and friends in the USA. Yes, I’ll agree…we have a good life!

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Cruising Outpost 109 11/2/18 10:20 AM

No matter how hard you try, you can’t baptize cats.

Marmaris For The Winter By Chuck & Patty Ritenour/Ridgway on s/v SoulMates

The Marmaris fishing fleet

e have spent 11 years underway on our Jeanneau DS40, SoulMates, as full-time liveaboard cruisers. Having sailed both sides of the Caribbean, and now the Mediterranean, we have had to spend a lot of time in marinas waiting out hurricane season or, like now, winter in the Mediterranean. A lot of time and effort goes into researching a marina that fits our needs instead of one that is convenient or someone has recommended. Several cruising friends have suggested various marinas for various reasons, from a large cruiser community to weather to marina amenities. But, as former business professionals, we put our training to work and come up with a list of criteria that a marina should meet and what

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our priorities are before we contacted them. What are the differences you ask? The criteria are based on amenities we always want in a marina, whereas the priorities change year-to-year, based on our needs. Our first criterion is a central location. We like to travel in the winter—whether it’s around the country we are staying in, flying home to see family, or visiting other countries. So, we want access to an international airport and public transportation. We could of course rent a car, but would prefer not to; and, we really like to travel by bus to both see the countryside and meet some wonderful people. By the way, we have never been disappointed by friendliness of the people we meet.

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Second, we want a location that is warm. We have a small electric heater for the boat that makes life aboard livable during cold spells, but prefer to use it as little as possible. Third, the town should be neither too large nor too small. We also want a marina to be located close enough to the downtown that we could walk there whenever we wanted. Fourth, the marina has to have a good haul-out facility with qualified, experienced workmen and good chandleries. We try to keep SoulMates in first class condition! Fifth, the security for both the boat and crew must be assured. There are times when we will leave the boat for inland travel and we want to make sure the boat is safe and secure when bad weather hits. We have learned that the good marinas have dock workers that are out during bad weather, checking dock lines, and making sure boats are secure. In all our cruising years we have never had anything taken from SoulMates—and we don’t tempt fate. Sixth, there should be good medical facilities nearby. Both members of the crew are over 70 and get yearly eye exams, biannual dermatology Farmers market with and dental visits, fresh strawberries the as well as a general whole year medical checkups. Finally, we would like a liveaboard community. It is nice to have people around who share this incredible lifestyle that we can learn from and share with. Our major priorities change from year to year. They have gone from safety and security, to a downtown location, to major boat work, to a close airport for ﬂying back to the U.S.A. Each year we look at where we will be and what we really need to determine what is critical. We based our marina stays for our previous two winters in Turkey on our criteria, and had not expected to use them for a third. But, 2017 was one of those years long-term cruisers dread: when everything goes wrong.

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Marmaris Bazaar We had meltimi winds—the famous, northeast winds that come from over the Aegean sea—that just would not end, leaving us to sit for days on end in protected anchorages or harbors. A leak developed on the backside of the engine’s heat exchanger that we kept trying to fix, but just kept growing. We hit something in the water in Crete that broke a blade off our Bunton Autoprop. And, finally, as we sailed from Rhodes to Marmaris, one of our thru-hulls broke, but fortunately above the ball valve. As we sailed into Marmaris we called Netsel Marina, informing them of our arrival, our problem, and our need for a haul out. They were quite concerned and asked if it was a severe emergency. When we responded that it was not, they directed us to first go to the Customs dock, then call when we finished so they could do an immediate lift. Once SoulMates was in the sling, the marina suggested SailMarmaris for our repairs. Their worker came over

Big yachts parked for winter with resturants behind and, with Chuck’s help, changed the thru-hull while Patty went to the office to make arrangements for a short stay. As we watched SoulMates being relaunched, we discussed the year, our problems, and the stresses we had experienced all year. With the end of the sailing season coming quickly, we decided to call it a year. But, was Netsel Marina in Marmaris what we wanted? In the past, several of our friends had suggested Marmaris as a place we should spend winter. We discussed our priorities for the winter, with our top priority as the maintenance and repair of SoulMates. There are two big marinas in Marmaris: one at the end of the bay that is a 30-minute minibus ride from town, and one a 10-minute walk to town. Although the one at the end of the bay cost about 30-40% less, it had limited amenities and was further from town. Getting to town would cost approximately $2 USD each round trip during

Sunset in Marmaris

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The fairway in Netsel Marina the day, but later in the evening when busses stopped it was a $10 cab ride. Also, some of the contractors charged more to work in that marina. We like to get off the boat to just walk around for exercise, unscheduled shopping, and a quick stop at a pub or a meal out. While initially less expensive, the marina at the end of the bay would cost almost as much as the closer one and make our winter much less enjoyable. Getting back to our criteria and priorities, we decided that Marmaris met most of what we wanted. First, of course, were the technicians and ability to get qualified workmen to repair SoulMates, and both marinas met those criteria. Second was safety and security. We were impressed with the concern Netsel showed when we came in with a broken seacock. Meliha Yankulov, the office manager, not only arranged for the emergency haul out as well as a qualified technician to help Chuck replace the

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SoulMates coming out of the water for an emergency repair

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Cruising Outpost 113 11/2/18 12:44 PM

Balloon ride over Cappadocia seacock, but actually came out to make sure everything went as planned. It turns out she is a wealth of information and wants to work with you. Turkey is a very old country. Ever since the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first sailor, Noah, parked his boat here, people have been coming and leaving their mark. We wanted to see as much of it as feasibly possible and Marmaris allowed us to do that. Great bus service takes you anywhere in Turkey, but if you are in a hurry then an international airport is nearby. For the times when a car is required, there is a car rental company in Netsel. They worked with us to make an impromptu trip to central Turkey to see the fields of roses, the whirling dervish, and take a balloon ride in Cappadocia. There are also daily ferry boats to Greece, so getting around is not an issue. Marmaris is not a large town. It has a year-round population of 28,000 people that can exceed 200,000 in the summer, along with a large expat community. From Netsel you can walk anywhere, anytime. It was quite fun exploring each neighborhood and finding new places to shop, such as the import store that sold pork products, finding good red and white butchers, and letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not forget the twice-a-week farmers market with fresh citrus and veggies that would make any U.S.A. grocery store look tiny in comparison. With a city the size of Marmaris, the local hospital has all the specialists one might need. It was close enough to either marina, but we could walk from Netsel. When Chuck was referred to an eye specialist at the university hospital in Mugla, an hour minibus ride away, it was quick and easy. We were not sure if either marina had a viable liveaboard community, so we had to discount that criterion. In the end, both marinas met our first priority, repairing SoulMates. But, Netsel had everything we wanted from

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since seating will be limited. Everyone is welcome. The event will be from noon to 3pm. The event is sponsored by the Fort Myers Beach Anchorage Advisory Committee. For information on

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What a concept! a great haul-out facility, to qualified boat technicians, multiple chandlers that were a 10-minute walk away, and a big Sanayi (a light industrial area that may be able to make what you could not buy) that we could walk to anytime we wanted. It was our ability to walk from chandlery to chandlery to compare prices and get what we wanted when we wanted it, without taking a bus or taxi to get Banana tree outside the bulky parts back to the boat, marina security gate that sold us on Netsel. The next priority was the safety and security; we were really impressed with Netsel’s. Not only with the roving patrols, but the constant challenge of anyone trying to enter the marina. There can be strong west-southwest winter winds, so we were pleased to watch Netsel dock workers adding lines to various boats before the winds hit. 20 March 2016 S O U T H W I N D S The real priority, for Patty, was her ability to get off the boat whenever she wanted so she could just get out, walk around, and see what she could find. Of course, when she said that was her priority, Chuck reminded her of the boat repairs. She agreed they were important and then, of course, Chuck agreed to her request. So Netsel it was and we were not disappointed. Everything went better than planned and (for once!) the to-do list was completed. Netsel Marina had almost everything we wanted. As we left, Onur Kunduz, the marina manager, asked what had been good and where he could improve. Now, for a couple of old business executives, we were quite pleased to hear that—it really showed his and Setur’s commitment to not stand on their laurels but constantly improve. Our only complaint was the lack of a liveaboard community. We did find as we went along a few liveaboards were there, but did not know how many. So, we suggested the marina set up a liveaboard get-together late in the fall, when most boats would be in, so liveaboards could have a meet-and-greet and set up their own schedule. As we set sail out of Netsel and waved goodbye to the staff, we were sad to leave. In fact, we wish we had spent our previous two winters there as well. Netsel had quickly become home for us, and it is always hard leaving home.

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11/2/18 12:45 PM

Aruba-Bound: 70 NM The Hard Way! By Robert Scott, s/v Honeymoon Forever

Departing Curacao After spending three months in Curacao, it was time to move on. It was amazing how fast the time passed here. A definite testament to all that there is to do and see on this lovely island. But Aruba was calling, and it was only a short 70-nautical-mile sail away. We would sail west by northwest, which, with the way the trades blow here, would mean a downhill run. Once our decision was made, all we really needed to do was to wait for our weather window. We weren’t really worried about rains or storms because they have been virtually non-existent here in the ABC Islands. The wind, though—now that’s a different story! The ABCs are in the lower part of the chain they call the Windwards, and it’s named so for a darn good reason! It is ubiquitous, ever present, steady, and stiff. And it is arid. Blowing so dry sometimes it takes the moisture out of your mouth and eyes! Warm to hot winds blow during the day with cool winds coming during the night. Believe it or not, it makes for a very comfortable climate while living aboard. Go figure. So, after checking with Poseidon, Neptune, Zephyrus, and Helios, we set our departure date for Saturday. My wife, Virginia, was celebrating a birthday milestone and I had promised her Aruba! On Friday we cleared Customs and Immigration with the plan to depart the next morning. Up before the first light of the morning with the water for the coffee already

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on, I did my pre-trip inspection of the vessel. Thirty minutes later we brought in our dock lines and we were free, making our way out of our slip and into the deep water of Spanish Bay. There, we raised the mainsail and unfurled the jib, each halfway. I knew that it was already blowing 22–24 knots eastsoutheast out in the open Atlantic and our heading, once in the open, would be west-northwest. And, starting with half of my sail is my S.O.P. in anything over 20 knots. As we eased our way through the very narrow channel at Punta Santa Barbara and headed out to the open waters, the sun started to make its appearance though the clouds off of our port stern. The wind hit us and immediately filled our sails. God, I love that feeling when our vessel catches the wind and starts to gallop like a mare! We stayed on a port tack until we were about two miles offshore, then made our tack to starboard and settled in on our course, locking in the autopilot. The wind was clocking 24–26 knots coming from 170 degrees. At 0705 hours we were passing the towns of Punda and Otrobanda 2.5 miles off to starboard. Big, high, following seas were helping to bring us up to 7.8–8 knots of forward speed in no time at all. We were almost 100% wing and I had to rig a preventer for the main because of the rolling motion the seas were creating. We were now about an hour out

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11/2/18 12:45 PM

Why is it you can never take a photo of heavy seas?? of port and in a groove. A rough rolling groove, but a groove nonetheless. At 0732 hours we passed Piscadera Bay 3.7 miles off to starboard. The winds were clocking 24 knots from east-southeast at 110 degrees. I was contemplating putting out my trolling lines, even though these kinds of seas rarely bring good fish with them. But I am a fishing junkie, so instinct took over. At 0743 hours, just as I was headed out of the cockpit to get my gear set up my wife sounded, “DOLPHINS, LOTS OF THEM, 11 O’CLOCK!” And there they were, everywhere, at the forward, leaping, spinning, playing off the bow. I made my way back to the cockpit and just as I was entering it, the vessel swung wildly to starboard. I mean free-style wildly, and she heeled to port about 25 degrees! In that split second, I knew immediately what happened and I grabbed the wheel while simultaneously handing Virginia my camera. I could hear some items down below making their way from their original spots to the salon and galley floor. No matter how much attention you pay to securing below decks before heading underway at sea, there’s always something that finds its way from its holding spot to the floor when you heel beyond a certain point. I instantly brought us around to an off-wind heading. Well, as much off-wind as you could get with it blowing like it was. It was apparent to me that the autopilot had disengaged. I don’t know how or why, but it did. Once we were stabilized and calmed down, I asked Virginia to take the helm while I investigated. The first item I checked was the pivot arm on the rudder reference control. For such a crucial part in the

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Cruising Outpost 117

11/2/18 12:45 PM

The author’s self-portrait with dolphins

operation of the autopilot, it is only a six-inch-long, quarter-inch threaded rod with a ball-snap connector on each end. I have discovered that sometimes (very rarely) it will pop out under duress. Hooking myself to the jacklines once again I headed aft to the stepped transom. Upon lifting up the starboardside lazarette to inspect the control, I discovered that it was intact. So much for a simple solution. I had an immediate flashback to a time years ago and decided that next on my checklist would be the Fluxgate Compass. This is located below decks in the aft master stateroom. There’s not too much that can damage that because it is so well enclosed and protected. However, the incident that I remembered happened while sailing in Charlotte Harbour, Florida that prompted me to check it out. I will relate that here for both reference and education. We were enjoying a nice day-sail in the large harbor with the autopilot on when the vessel suddenly veered hard to starboard. I went through the same routine and could not figure out what had happened. So, I doused the sails, dropped a hook, and called Autohelm tech support. We went through the process of troubleshooting and found nothing wrong. He then asked me where my Fluxgate Compass was installed and instructed me to go to it. I did. He then asked what was around it. I told him, “towels and things.” He asked, “What kind of things?” I replied, “A sewing kit, a bag of shampoos and conditioners and a sewing machine.” He said, “Aha! Is the sewing machine metal? If it is, there is your problem.” I was getting magnetic interference from the

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metal sewing machine which had somehow shifted and gotten close enough to the Fluxgate Compass to create interference! Imagine that! So, back to the story at hand. I checked the Fluxgate Compass and it was clear of any interference. (After the Charlotte Harbour incident I moved the sewing machine to a different location). Next on the list to check was the course computer. Before doing so I stuck my head topsides just to check on Virginia to make sure she was fine. All was good; stressful for her, but good. I took out my voltmeter and checked all connections on the Course Computer. There are many. Every single connection checked out positively. Well, now I was perplexed. But, with 60-plus nautical miles left to go to Aruba, there was not much else I could do but hand-steer the rest of the way. Virginia was wiped out by the time I returned topside to take over the helm and get us back on course. The winds had died down somewhat and were now hovering in the upper teens to 20 knots. The seas were still sloppy. I got us back on course and soon discovered it would be a very long day manually steering in high, following seas. We had gotten too used to our trusty autopilot! This also meant no trolling! Darn, I hate it when that happens! These were such tuna-rich waters! The hours passed, and the seas and winds got rougher. My hands were cramping, as were my legs. Virginia could not take the helm any longer because of the forces on the rudder. They were too strong for her to maintain a straight course, which she was not comfortable with.

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11/2/18 12:45 PM

More hours passed and more cramping. Virginia was feeding me cheese and crackers when I got hungry and getting me water as I needed it. Finally, at 1356 hours, I shouted “LAND HO!!” We spotted the southernmost tip of Aruba 9.18 nautical miles out. That immediately had a positive effect on my wellbeing; I didn’t feel the cramps as much with the rush of endorphins that flooded through my body. At 1612 hours we passed the southernmost tip of Aruba. We were officially in her waters now and working our way more northward towards the leeward side of the island. We furled in the mainsail and jib and motored the short distance remaining. We radioed Port Control for docking directions to clear Customs and Immigration (C&I). The system here was not the most convenient. They instructed us to pull into the “commercial docks,” which were decrepit at best, then tie off to massive concrete piers that had no cleats. They did, however, have massive old tires hanging to fend you off. But, be cautious: They will mark your hull up! Use every fender you have. And there you will sit until they come to you and process you. In the meantime, we radioed the marina to let them know about our situation, and they said they would wait to assist with our docking. The docking style at the Renaissance Marina was Mediterranean mooring, with a mooring ball forward. Finally, at 1745 hours we were officially cleared into Aruba. We made our way the short distance to the Renaissance Marina where the marina staff was waiting on us. With their help we were secure in our slip in a matter of 15 minutes. Excellent. I was, at this point, physically and mentally exhausted. It was truly 70 nautical miles “The Hard Way.” It was time for a cold adult beverage and for my lovely wife, Virginia, and me to celebrate another safe arrival in another port. Time to get started on her birthday adventure here in Aruba!

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11/2/18 12:46 PM

Great welcome by bigger sister

By John Simpson

Blauwe, Narrow berth, Ostend N.S.Y.C.

We left Koopman’s Haven, of Flushing, Netherlands, just after 1400 hours, in a north-northeast F 4/5, finally finding some real wind at last. It was the tenth day of our two-week annual summer cruise. For most of the holiday, the wind had been behind us and light, enabling Blauwe Slenk to show off her Dutch origins by flying her orange spinnaker for long periods of time. All of us—my wife, Janet, son, Wes, and I, along with the boat—had enjoyed a magical time in Holland. Now it was time to start heading home.

Blauwe reaching Flushing to Ostend

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With a full main and number one Genoa, although hard-pressed and burying the leeward deck at times and on almost a broad reach, Blauwe was quickly able to shake off any sadness at leaving her birth place. She was roaring along at hull speed. By 1900 we were off the entrance to Ostend. Only feeling the true strength of the wind as we turned into it, we dropped the sails and motored into the harbor. Turning into the first right of the North Sea Yacht Club marina, there seemed to be a queue of three or four boats in front of us waiting for a berth.

Approaching Koopman’s Haven, Flushing

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Suddenly, the berthing master on the first pontoon started waving and blowing his whistle at us to come ahead in front of the other boats, allocating a berth for us. It was embarrassing, until he explained that the other boats were too wide to fit this particular berth. Our boat is a 26-footer, and slim in the beam by today’s standards. As luck would have it, we had been given a space in a very crowded harbor to cap a brilliant sail! Almost before we had finished tying up Blauwe and stowing up, we were greeted by a very excited Dutch couple on a pontoon. They had seen our Old Dutch sail number on the mainsail from the end of the harbor breakwater and recognized the boat as Kroes-built. Our sail number was just one before their own. Blauwe was built in 1956; we quickly understood their amazement at such a coincidence. We immediately invited them on board to see our boat. It was rather different than the greeting we received in Ijmuiden, where we had been told that a Kroes yacht shouldn’t be allowed to go into British hands! We joined them to visit their boat, which was very much like a larger, more deluxe sister of Blauwe. Being a 30-foot, stretched version of Kroes’s Jupiter design, with white topsides and laid teak deck, Blauwe’s big sister was immaculate, rather putting our own working-boat finish to shame. Thus ended yet another astonishing day of wonderful cruising. Cruising memories like this remain forever…

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Blauwe in Six Haven, Amsterdam, doing a bit of fettling

Dutch Kroes Ostend, Blauwe’s big sister

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Cruising Outpost 121

11/2/18 12:46 PM

Bocas Del Toro - Paradise in Panama

A word of caution about Bocas del Toro, Panama: It’s the kind of place that once you find it, there’s a chance you’ll never leave. If you had the good fortune to visit the eastern Caribbean 30 years ago, you’ll recall the unspoiled anchorages, the turquoise waters, and the pristine, white beaches that you had all to yourself. That paradise may be lost, but you’ll find another in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, an undiscovered gem that lies on the Caribbean side of Panama, 145 miles west of the entrance to the Panama Canal. Yep, west. Panama is shaped somewhat like an S lying on its side and the canal runs north-to-south through the middle of the S. After transiting the Panama Canal from the Pacific, we made a left turn and headed for the Bocas Marina and Yacht Club. Our first stop was in Laguna de Bluefield at the eastern approach of the archipelago. After the overnight passage, the tranquil waters were a welcome sight. There was a small fishing village on shore, and it wasn’t long before the locals paddled out in their cayugas. Most just wanted to say hello, but we asked a group of young guys if anyone was selling lobsters. Before long they were back at

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the Mermaid with a load of lobsters. We negotiated a deal for $1.50 a lobster and they quickly found their way to the grill. Fresh lobster, a beautiful evening, and a calm anchorage— that’s a hard combination to beat. To enter the archipelago, we could have used the large, wide entrance, but we decided to enter through Crawl Cay Pass, a narrow passage lined with coral. We used the excellent Cruising Guide to Panama by Eric Bauhaus to plot our course and double-checked the navigation before heading out mid-morning. The sun was out, giving us good visibility, so we were able to see the bottom in the shallow spots and come through without incident. Our destination for the night was a group of mangrove islets known as the Gallego Doing a little Cays. Mermaid was the only boat there boat work that night, so we had the place to ourselves. There was nice snorkeling on the nearby reefs and we enjoyed another pleasant evening on the hook. The next morning we headed for the Bocas Marina and Yacht Club located in a protected bay adjacent to Bocas Town, 09° 20′ 10″ north latitude by 082° 14′ 50” west longitude. There are two good anchorages near

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11/2/18 12:46 PM

Jimmy Buffet landing in Bocas.

the town, but we were planning on leaving the boat there while we headed back to the U.S. for a family visit, and Bocas Marina and Yacht Club met our criterion of a secure, modern marina south of the hurricane zone. The marina was great. They gave us instructions on how to avoid the reef coming in when we hailed them and were there to greet us at the dock when we arrived. The staff was professional, very competent, and quite helpful—and the rates were reasonable. The marina provides a free water taxi to and from town four times a day, making forays to Bocas Town easy. The icing on the cake is that the Calypso Cantina, a groovy cruiser bar serving $1 local beers at happy hour, is on the marina grounds. Jimmy Buffett is even spotted in the Cantina from time to time. An unusual thing the marina does is roast their own coffee—and it is the best! They buy the beans from the mountain town of Boquete and roast them in the marina. We buttoned up the boat and contracted with the marina to come by once a week to take a look and make sure everything was okay. Leaving the boat for extended periods is always a bit nerve wracking, and having someone keeping an eye on her while you’re away is nice, but you never know if they’re really going to do what you’ve paid for. The Bocas Marina and Yacht Club came through for us when we got a call three weeks into the trip reporting that one of our bilge pumps was stuck on. We’d had issues with one of the switches previously, and after providing the specifics, we got a call back letting us know all was well. That saved us at best a burned out pump—and at worst a disastrous fire. Bocas Town, located on Isla Colon, was a sleepy village not so long ago, but has morphed into a trendy tourist destination that has the feel of a place right on the edge of the earth. There’s an airport with several flights a day to Panama

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Cruising Outpost 123 11/2/18 12:47 PM

Making coffee

Company created Bocas Town to house the workers and City that brings hipsters to partake in the archipelago’s great load bananas onto boats bound for the U.S. The Bocas surfing and diving. Colorful water taxis are on the move from economy was shattered when the banana dusk to dawn toting tourists between the islands. market collapsed and United Fruit moved out But, don’t expect high-rise condos or fancy hotels. in the 1930s, but Bocas still has the look of a Local laws limit structures to three stories and company town. there’s a concerted effort to keep things low key. Today, however, many of the old, blocky The local culture and cuisine is varied, buildings are painted in bright, Caribbean colors. reflecting the influence of the Latin, IndoThe majority of businesses are located in a few Caribbean, Asian, and indigenous cultures that blocks of “Main” street and you can take a cab mingle in the area. We discovered that Bocas anywhere in town for $1 USD. We found several has a long history. Christopher Columbus mom-and-pop grocery stores that had basic anchored here on his final voyage to the new supplies and fresh produce. There was also an world in 1502 and the legacies of the Age of upscale, gourmet grocery, as well as a panga that Discovery are still evident. The names that came by the marina once a week selling fresh Columbus gave to many of the islands and bays are still in use today. The old world diseases Guna Yala Woman fruit and vegetables. When we got back from the States we got and Spanish swords that followed wiped out busy exploring the archipelago. There was no much of the indigenous population, allowing the shortage of things to do. We hiked through the archipelago’s secluded anchorages to become a butterfly farm; toured the Finca de los Monos, where we haven for pirates raiding the ships returning to Spain that learned about the local flora and fauna; and visited the Green were laden with gold and silver. Acres Chocolate Finca, where they grow, harvest, and process At the end of the 19th century, the banana industry moved in and imported workers from the Caribbean organic chocolate. More than a few dinghy adventures were mixed in where we snorkeled the nearby reefs and explored and Asia to work the vast plantations. The United Fruit

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the mangroves. There were many restaurants and local bars to sample. A few of our favorites were the great food at the Ultimo Refugio, the microbrews at the Bocas Brewery, and the unbeatable view and ambiance at the Rip Tide, an old, barelyfloating shrimp boat that’s been converted into a restaurant and bar and is now docked in Bocas Town. Of course, we always looked forward to happy hour at the Calypso Cantina, where the cruisers gathered to swap past adventures, future plans, and how-to advice while sucking down $1 beers. We also spent some time working off items on the boat maintenance list. Has anyone else noticed that the more items you tick off, the more that appear on the list? Anyway, there are several well-stocked hardware stores in Bocas if you need supplies, as well as a couple outfits that can assist you in getting hard to find items brought in. The Bocas Marina and Yacht Club also has boat maintenance personnel available by the hour at good rates. We had our topside teak sanded and a couple of coats of Cetol applied and were quite pleased with both the results and the price. There’s also an excellent haulout facility in nearby Almirante, called Bocas Yacht Services, with a 60-ton travel lift (if you need to haul out), and English speaking staff. If you’re heading to Bocas del Toro, be sure to make a reservation at the Bocas Marina and Yacht Club because they sometimes fill up! Oh, and check out their website at bocasmarina.com.

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11/2/18 12:47 PM

From Hanalei, Hawaii to Fort What were we thinking? This had to be the We had no business being out

We should

Ready to leave Kaneohe Yacht Club in Oahu, Hawaii

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Our dream finally came together. The boat was provisioned. We needed ice and fuel, and then we’d untie these dock lines! As my husband, Mike, and I were finishing up on the boat, we looked up and saw this brand-new, 42-foot Newton headed towards our boat—at full speed. I screamed, “Stop!” Then both of us were screaming, “Neutral!” This old man was messing around with the shifters and couldn’t figure it out. “Put the boat in neutral!” we screamed again. The boat slowed down and missed us by inches off our bow. Thank god! But then he decided to bring the boat into the dock portside and started heading towards our boat again, full speed. We were screaming again, this time with a crowd of observers watching, and he slams his boat into the concrete dock, hits this one rock, scrapes the wall, and almost hits the fuel pumps with a nice new scratch down the side of his boat. He missed us again by two inches. We were shaken, but our friend Gabriel walked over and in the calmest possible voice tells the Captain in his French accent, “Easy, champion.” This made our day and made us smile! Less than five minutes of fearing we were going to lose everything before we departed was too much. That evening we celebrated “surviving” with friends— and we hadn’t left the dock! The following day we untied the dock lines in Honokohau WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/2/18 10:25 AM

Bragg, California in 33 Days! dumbest thing we had ever decided to do. there in the big Pacific Ocean.

turn around! By Tara Kelly

Harbor and set sail towards Hanalei Bay in Kauai. The first hurdle was completed by crossing the Alenuihaha Channel. Crossing the Alenuihaha Channel puts Haleakala on one side and Mauna Kea on the other. So, in this channel there are 4100 meter volcanoes, and wind that funnels that can have five times the volume of the surrounding water. Locals told us that Alenuihaha meant “chiefs laughing at you.” When you’re in this channel, it’s like looking down the throat of Jaws. This was our seventh time in this channel. It’s not always easy crossings—and we understand that local saying. Stopping in Maui, Molokai, and Oahu along the way, we arrived into Hanalei Bay at 1:00 p.m. I lived in Kauai for four years and dreamed of having our boat here. Coming into the bay and seeing the beautiful mountains and the pier was surreal. Hanalei Bay is one of the prettiest places on this earth. Once anchored, the dinghy went into the water and it was time to get a bothersome tooth pulled; I didn’t want to cross the ocean with this pain. It was a successful tooth extraction; we could finally get the provisions we needed. While talking story with our local friends on the beach they noticed someone trying to steal our dinghy. The guy had it loaded in the back of his truck. They called him out on it and we WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

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Xenia in Fort Bragg, California after 33 days at sea

Cruising Outpost 127

11/2/18 10:25 AM

From Hanalei, Hawaii to Fort Bragg, California in 33 Days! Party with friends before leaving Honokohau, Hawaii

Boat-dog Bell, ready to go out to sea! got our dinghy back. Let’s just say he is not welcome to come back to this beach anymore! Thank god for having friends who keep an eye out for you! Saying goodbye was hard; they all thought we were crazy. We reminded them what their ancestors did. They didn’t need this reminder from a “haole,” since they are third-generation, Ohana Taro farmers in Hanalei. At 11:30 a.m. we pulled anchor and departed Hanalei Bay. It felt great to depart and head to our goal of Santa Barbara, California. The sails were up and we were enjoying a couple of cold Coronas, celebrating our departure. Pinch us, this was amazing! We had worked hard for this and it was ﬁnally happening. A few hours later I decided to take a nap. Next thing I heard was my husband Mike saying, “Get up, all hands on deck.” When I went outside I saw big dark clouds ahead of us. A storm was coming towards us. The sky was a color we had never seen before. When I grabbed our life jackets the wind started coming at us from the northeast. Twenty-plus knots, we think. We didn’t have a fancy wind gauge on board. We knew when we couldn’t see the whirlybird spinning around on top of the mast, it was really windy! Water was coming to our back starboard quarter rail. Rain was coming in sideways and we were soaking wet; the autopilot belt was slipping from all of the moisture. The wind then switched around from the southeast and lighting was coming from the sky followed by loud thunder. This continued for the next ten hours. Mike held the wheel, and I was holding on next to him, trying

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to keep from falling down. I couldn’t tell if it was tears or rain drops running down my face, but I told him I was scared. He admitted he was too. I grew up in Utah and am not a natural when it comes to the water. I had learned it over the years while living in Hawaii, so my gauge of scared is a bit different than other people’s. Mike had spent five years fishing in Alaska and has been on the water his whole life. If he is scared, it must be bad. I prayed and hoped they’d find our bodies! While looking over my side (portside) I saw these two huge dolphins swimming next to the boat. “Check out these dolphins,” I said. “Those aren’t dolphins, those are tuna,” Mike informed me. We quickly threw in our two fishing lines. Nothing, darn it. Then we heard the fishing line drag hard, looked up, and saw this huge marlin dancing on the water. What the hell were we going to do with this? We were The 33-day route relieved when he got off! across the Pacific But then he caught on the other line and we saw his belly was hooked. That marlin was pissed now! For the next couple of minutes he was jumping all over the place.Thankfully he finally got off, again. Twenty minutes later we landed a tenpound mahi mahi. This immediately changed the mood on board and we were out of our slump! Mike filleted the fish and I cooked it in lemon and panko. The slamming and pounding can get to you on our boat. We have a very low bridge deck and it makes going into the wind uncomfortable. To make matters worse, when we left Hawaii we forgot our foul weather gear. Having lived in Hawaii for fourteen years, I WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/2/18 10:26 AM

What were we thinking? Look closely... thousands of jelly ﬁsh

guess we forgot it gets cold? We wore socks on our hands and tied shirts around our faces to stay warm. Everything was damp and never dried out. Not a good idea. Mike couldn’t sleep inside the boat and he would stay up for two-to-three days straight. When he did ﬁnally lay down in the saloon area one day, he started hearing voices. I thought he was losing it from the lack of sleep, but the next night I heard them too. We could hear people screaming and laughing. We looked at our AIS—nothing near us. We called out on the VHF—nothing heard back. Nothing in site. There were deﬁnitely no other boats near us, but we both heard these voices. It was surreal, to say the least. Mike hates the nights and usually, right before dark, he will sing “Here Comes the Night.” Night watches seem to make our brains think things are happening that aren’t really happening. During one of my night watches, I woke Mike up by saying, “Look there’s a ship off in the distance!” He told me it was not a ship but a planet. There was nothing on the AIS. I then convinced him we were going to hit the ship. Nope, still just a planet! One night he swore we were going to hit a cliff and drove us around in circles for hours, despite what our charts were saying. He even asked me why I was out in the dinghy? What?? We were kind of losing our cool. Should I call the Coast Guard? We had a few other squalls and big seas. After a while you get used to the bad weather. We’d look outside and know the weather was shitty with big seas and it wouldn’t faze us. After ten days at sea, our fresh fruits and vegetables were gone. We realized we were using too much water and getting low. We brought 90 gallons with us, but were using too much on dishes and showers. And, since our German shepherd, Bell, drinks one-to-two gallons a day, it was time to be more mindful. However, everything we cooked needed water. Pancakes? Add WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 126-131 Hawaii to Calif crossing - editedbySue.indd 5

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11/2/18 10:26 AM

From Hanalei, Hawaii to Fort Bragg, California in 33 Days! Tara in warm clothes

water. Soup? Add water. Rice? Add water. Spam and spaghetti? Add water! We had a watermaker that came with the boat, but we never actually hooked it up. We were making new friends with the sailing jellyfish. You’d look out to sea and see white all over the ocean. There were millions of them. We took our five-gallon bucket and brought our new friend on board. We watched him for hours before we released him back into the ocean. We saw a few seals alone at sea, floating debris that had now grown a habitat around it for the small fish, and a few dolphins. Once we started seeing commercial ships pass us we didn’t feel so lonely, and the amazing sunsets began to comfort us. When we left Kona, a friend of Mike’s gave him a couple of small shackles and said we might need them. Thinking they were just funny, we threw them on the chart table. We were having a great sail day, making 7–8 knots with waves only at five feet, when all of the sudden we heard a loud “Cling! Boom!” The genoa had come undone and down the furler and fell on the forward deck. All the shackles that held the genoa up were gone. Not good! Mike continually saying, “We’re f—d” didn’t help the situation either. How would we go up the mast in these conditions? We then decided to use the tiny shackles his friend gave us and clipped them up the spinnaker line. It worked. No more genoa, but the sail was up and we were making way again. With only ten gallons of gas left it was time to get to land! We needed those westerlies to arrive. Come on, wind! It would have been easier to get to Alaska than California! On June 14th the winds arrived. We were now about 690 miles from San Francisco. However, two days after the westerlies arrived the wind stopped and would only come up for one-to-three hours a day. Our computer for gathering weather grids and emailing family crashed. We had another computer on board; nevertheless, when we got it installed and had it up and running (which

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only took us two days), our family was in a panic. Our EPIRB didn’t go off, so they shouldn’t have been that worried. But, they were sure glad to hear from us. We decided to motor until we ran out of five gallons of gas. Five gallons to get us to land would be good. We slept for ten hours and when that motor shut off we sat there and waited and waited for the wind to come up. We didn’t care where we landed. Mike had asked me if I remembered the movie Overboard, with Kurt Russell. He said, “This is where we’re going, Fort Bragg, California.” We had five gallons of water left on board, were low on dog food, and 144 miles away. Mike was worried about our water and started to read the watermaker instructions. Mike knew the area and we’d aim in its direction. We emailed Dolphin Isle Marina and they had a slip for us— for a few days. They gave us directions for entering the Noya river, which is a shallow river. We only draft eighteen inches, this shouldn’t be a problem. Twenty miles to the entrance we started to smell land and get nervous about going in. The fog was thick for hours, but when it lifted we could see the bridge and entrance to the river; our chart said we were five miles away. Land ho! Salmon fishing boats were everywhere. We were in shock. The last people we saw were our Kauai friends. There were no people, houses, or smells for 33 days and then all of the sudden here it was in our faces. Our senses were overloaded. As we got closer to the bridge, before we went under it, we wondered if our mast would be low enough. Bell was so happy she took a big dump in front of all the boats. This answered a lot of questions. No one wants to know about our sailing adventures, they want to know where the dog goes to the bathroom! When we saw our dock space, I got a bit nervous because this huge white piece was hanging off under the dock. I thought it was concrete. I was holding my legs as far as I could to push us off. Mike was WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/2/18 10:26 AM

What were we thinking? A very welcome sign!

the Pyrate s screaming, “It’s foam, we’re okay.” Good, because I almost fell in. We tied to the dock without an issue. Oh my god, we made it—33 days at sea! Tears of joy welled up as we walked to the office and deli. We purchased a six-pack of beer, two cheeseburgers, a large green salad, and a roast beef sandwich for $35.00. That seemed cheap, coming from Hawaii, so we grabbed another six-pack! We had the biggest smiles on our faces for weeks. People couldn’t believe we came from Hawaii!! They always asked us if we still had our sea legs. We would tell them, “Yes, but from the dock, not our boat.” They would look at our boat and ask, “You came here in that?” It was so gratifying to say yes! We would tell them, “Not once did our boat scare us. Were we scared? Yes. But, never by our boat!” Fort Bragg Harbor on the Noyo River feels like going back in a time. Dolphin Isle Marina is a small fishing and camping village. It was salmon season and the fisherman were catching their daily limits. Campers were arriving for the 4th of July weekend for their yearly salmon barbeque. People were friendly and made us feel comfortable. I fit right in with my fishing boots. My cousins drove from Windsor, California the following day to welcome us to the mainland. They had quite a laugh at my dinghy riding skills. Before they left they made sure we were well-stocked with Geyser Peak and Francis Coppola wine. These were happy days celebrating our goal. This was our first ocean crossing. Mike and I are still happily married (ten years now!) and have over 10,000 nautical miles together. We now have a lot of coastal experience, which we think is way harder than crossing the sea! We’ve sailed to Hawaii, California, México, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama. From all of this we learned: Dream BIG and don’t QUIT. We can’t wait for the next ocean crossing: Panama to South Pacific 2020. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 126-131 Hawaii to Calif crossing - editedbySue.indd 7

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Cruising Outpost 131

11/2/18 10:27 AM

Prior to November 13th, 2017, NOAA’s Ocean Prediction Center (OPC) began to eliminate important information from its graphical charts, which constitutes not only a degradation of service but a potential hazard to navigation. OPC has now taken the step to eliminate the even-more critical tracking information of its surface pressure analysis and forecast charts. They are now no longer tracking any high pressure systems, or a significant number of low pressure systems. This uneven weather system tracking is a further reduction in service that commenced on March 7th, 2018. Notifications of the policy to remove the 500-millibar TROF axes, indicating a trough, made nearly a year ago, coupled with the drastic elimination of the 48-hour of tracking of low and high pressure systems from this past March, have been

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non-existant. The decision to make these changes has been mostly internal to NOAA and without a legitimate vetting process seeking input from the portion of the maritime industry affected most, stakeholders engaged in 90 percent of commerce entering and leaving US ports (merchant mariners). What is important to that segment of the maritime industry is also important to all mariners—sailors, cruisers, or racers, whether coastal or offshore. When provided with feedback, NOAA’s OPC mostly ignored or discounted it, without ever providing solid reasoning for any of the changes. Cruising Outpost readers may recall the petition posted on the webpage soliciting its readers to sign in protest of the NOAA’s OPC changes (removing TROF axes off 500-mb charts and eliminating all -24/+24 hours before each synoptic scale

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Cruising Outpost 133

11/4/18 3:59 PM

L e e C h e s n e a u ’s M a r i n e We a t h e r

chart provided this kind of information. This also of all warnings and forecasts extend to and impact all levels of the maritime industries that also include required mariners to do the the very same work that professional government forecasters are paid (quite recreational offshore cruisers and sailboat racers. The changes that NOAA’s OPC has made run handsomely!) to do. against the grain of the recent findings from the I have been in the forefront of trying to get NOAA National Transportation Safety to explain themselves in a number of forums that mostly These charts illustrate the that Board (NSB) and the United involve the professional States Coast Guard. Specifically, management policies of NOAA’s NOAA has been admonished maritime community engaged in commerce both nationally to provide 48-hours of tracking OPC run contrary to what the information for tropical cyclones and internationally, since the final report claims mandate for NOAA’s OPC (hurricanes). This tracking also really extends to all synoptic main function is to support scale weather systems (low and high pressure) to enable SOLAS, the International Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea, and the national economic well-being of the mariner to see how weather systems evolve over the United States with its marine weather warnings and a 48-hour time frame for each forecast chart (form, forecasts. This is accomplished through alpha-numeric intensify, weaken, or dissipate). The Save Our Seas text, voice broadcasts, and graphical charts. The benefit Act, Section 16, admonished NOAA to provide timely

134 Cruising Outpost

pg 132-135 Lee Chesneau Weather - editedbySue.indd 4

www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/4/18 4:00 PM

weather forecasts. The graphical chart illustrations in this article depict the fact that NOAA’s OPC’s management policies run contrary to the final report recommendations and aforementioned Save Our Seas Act, Section 16. The bottom line in all of this is NOAA has downgraded its products to the point they are subject to misinterpretation and now constitute a hazard to navigation for those that rely on these products. Previous attempts to get the attention of the leadership in NOAA and the National Weather Service (NWS) have produced no results; they have either ignored or discounted our feedback. Following the reading of this article, readers of Cruising Outpost are urged to express their concerns to elected leadership in both houses of Congress, and petition for the reinstatement of the 500-mb TROF lines and 24-96 hour forecast in weather charts. The safety of our seafarers and national economic wellbeing count on it.

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Cruising Outpost 135

11/4/18 4:00 PM

The Top 5 Sunscreen

Myths

You Need to Know By Dermatologist Edit Olasz Harken, M.D., Ph.D.

MYTH #1 The Higher the SPF, the Higher the Protection

Truth: SPF 100 is considered to be the most dangerous SPF. Any SPF above 50 is misleading, as SPF 50 offers the

maximum amount of protection. SPF (Sun Protection Factor) represents a sunscreen’s ability to protect you from UVB (burning), the short-range UV rays responsible for burning. It does not represent a sunscreen’s ability to protect you from UVA (aging), the long range rays that penetrate deep within the skin’s surface and chop up collagen, causing wrinkles and lasting damage. The FDA determined that SPF values over 50 were misleading to the public, as they offer a false sense of security to users. SPF 100 may enable one to stay in the sun longer without immediately feeling the burning effects of UVB rays, yet the damage persists. SPF follows a curve as shown below: • SPF 15 protects against 93% of UVB rays [allows 7% of UVB rays to burn the skin] • SPF 30 protects against 97% of UVB rays [allows 3% of UVB rays to burn the skin] • SPF 50 protects against 98.5% of UVB rays [allows 1.5% of UVB rays to burn the skin]

136 Cruising Outpost

pg 136-139 Secrets of Sunscreen - editedbySue.indd 2

www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/1/18 1:22 PM

What about UVA?

UVA rays are responsible for skin aging, lasting damage, and skin cancer. To ensure your sunscreen protects against UVA rays, make sure you choose a broadspectrum sunscreen. So, what is the best way to determine the strength of a sunscreen?

TRUTH: Look at the back and check the active ingredients! TRUTH: The better the active ingredients, the better the sunscreen. MYTH #2 All Sunscreens Are the Same

TRUTH: The biggest determinant of a sunscreen’s strength are its active ingredients. There are two types of active ingredients: mineral (physical) filters and chemical filters. There are only two mineral filters: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They are the #1 and #2 rated sunscreen filters in the world. Mineral (physical) filters reflect the full spectrum of UV light. As long as they are on your skin, you are protected from UVA and UVB. They are the safest for your skin and for your environment, and are insoluble in water. They pose no known health hazards. Chemical filters, on the other hand are soluble filters that absorb a small range of UV light, therefore requiring many chemical filters to be combined to reach an adequate range of UV light. Chemical filters work by absorbing a limited range of UV light and converting it to heat energy via a chemical reaction. Many chemical filters, however, are highly reactive and can be dangerous for the skin and their negative effects exacerbated in sunlight. Chemical filters deactivate far sooner when exposed to direct heat and sunlight. Therefore, they will lose their efficacy when exposed to excessive heat, which often happens when one is using sunscreen. Furthermore, many chemical filters are dangerous for the skin and the environment. Oxybenzone and octinoxate have been banned in Hawaii and have been proven for over a decade to bleach and kill coral – a central fixture of our ecosystem. Yet, one or both of these highly toxic ingredients are found in over 80% of our sunscreens today. We need to be more aware as consumers, and decide to ban these ingredients, because the drug companies won’t. Most chemical filters only absorb a small range of UVB (burning) rays, therefore don’t protect against the harmful UVA (aging) rays, which penetrate deep within the skin’s surface causing excessive skin aging by chopping collagen. UVA rays also contribute to skin cancer formation, causing deeper and longer-lasting damage then UVB rays, [which will cause a burn lasting a few days]. Many low-SPF tanning lotions that protect from UVB rays using chemical filters are very misleading, because they allow you to stay in the sun longer, but still allow UVA rays that will cause lifelong damage in attempt to obtain a “safe tan.” [sunscreens used as “sun tan lotions”] However,

There’s no such thing as a “safe tan” www.cruisingoutpost.com

pg 136-139 Secrets of Sunscreen - editedbySue.indd 3

Cruising Outpost 137

11/1/18 1:23 PM

The Top 5 Sunscreen Myths MYTH #3 Sunscreen Doesn’t Expire

Truth: Sunscreens usually expire in 3 years, though chemical

sunscreens do so much faster. Chemical filters are highly sensitive and reactive, especially when exposed to high heat. Check your sunscreens and throw them away (recycle them) if they’re older than two years and are chemical sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens are very stable and will last until the printed expiration date. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, will degrade far sooner, and if exposed to high temperatures and sunlight, such as in your car or on the boat on a hot day, they will expire much sooner. TIP: Check the back of your sunscreen. 1. Is your sunscreen expired? [toss] 2. Is it a chemical or mineral sunscreen? [if mineral, it’ll be more stable.] 3. Has it been exposed to high heat and light? [If it’s chemical-based, it is probably deactivated.]

Harken’s New Derm Sun System MYTH #4 All Forms of Sunscreen Are Effective

Truth: Spray sunscreen is the most

dangerous form of sunscreen. Why is it dangerous? 1. Spray sunscreens are almost always chemical sunscreens, which means they are easily inactivated. 2. They are frequently applied incorrectly. Spray sunscreens must be applied generously and evenly, then rubbed into the skin completely to provide adequate protection. The biggest mistake people make when using spray sunscreens is not rubbing it in. 3. Spraying it directly onto the face or near the eyes and mouth increases the risk of inhaling chemicals. People should be aware of the direction of the wind while spraying to avoid inhalation. 4. To be safe, do not apply spray aerosol sunscreens on children (especially aged 6 and younger). 5. Because it is a chemical sunscreen, users run the risk of irritation. Check the back of the sunscreen—many chemical filters are allergens and skin irritants. The only two UVA filters available in America, avobenzone and oxybenzone, are toxic. Avobenzone reacts with chlorine and causes staining; oxybenzone has been proven for over a decade to bleach and kill coral; and, both oxybenzone and avobenzone have been proven to stain white clothing yellow.

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MYTH #5 Not Everybody Needs Sunscreen Even if your skin is naturally dark, never burns, and always tan, the UV rays from the sun are still damaging your skin. UVA light can be especially damaging, accelerating skin aging and increasing your risk for developing skin cancer.

FACT: Sunscreen isn’t sufﬁcient sun protection.

The best protection from the sun is seeking shade and wearing sun protective clothing, such as a wide-brimmed hat and a long-sleeved, UPFprotection shirt. TIP: For clothing, the tighter the weave and the darker the color, the better the UV protection. TIP: Sunscreen should be applied to all exposed areas, especially the ears, lips, nose, and both sides of the neck to minimize risk of skin cancer. Skin cancers on the ears and lips are very dangerous, because they can spread more quickly than from other areas. WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 136-139 Secrets of Sunscreen - editedbySue.indd 5

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11/1/18 1:23 PM

Bubba Whartz

Bubba Takes on Sailboat Prospects By Morgan Stinemetz I was looking over my journalistic notes recently— writers tend to keep notes for a long time, like some kind of talisman to ward off libel and slander suits—and I came across some that were dated from 14 years ago. I hadn’t known Bubba Whartz long at that time, but even then I was already intrigued by his perception of reality. Basically, the notes described a time when I stopped by a Sarasota, Florida cove to see Whartz and received a lecture in political savvy. The tide was so low on that winter’s day in 1990 that Whartz’s ferro-cement sloop, Right Guard, was resting on the bottom of the cove where he keeps it. The boat tilted over at a dangerouslooking angle, its mast stabbing at an overcast sky at a 45-degree angle. I hailed Whartz from the shore, and in a while I saw his head with the obligatory baseball cap with the “Peterbilt” emblem on it pop out of the companionway. I told him I wanted to talk. He shouted back for me to stay right where I was. He’d put on some boots, he said, and walk to shore. A few minutes later Whartz came galumphing across the mud flats in his white rubber sea boots and bib overalls. As he walked up on the beach I could see he had his usual chew of Red Man in his cheek. I asked him how life was. “Pretty good,” he allowed. “How is your boat doing?” I asked. Whartz was usually warding off some maritime emergency in his floating home. “Just fine,” he replied, aiming a squirt of tobacco juice in the direction of a fiddler crab scurrying along the beach waving its bigger claw overhead. “I expect that Right Guard will be worth a heap more money real soon.” “How do you figure that?” “Simple,” Whartz said. “Every time gas prices go up, sailboat prices go up. Because of the Middle East Crisis, the price of gas has increased by about 30 cents a gallon. Then there is a nickel a gallon federal tax on top of that. You’ll remember what happened when fuel supplies got strained the last time. The sailboat industry got a muchneeded shot in the arm.”

140 Cruising Outpost

pg 140-141 Bubba Whartz - editedbySue.indd 2

“I remember,” I said. “But what’s your point?” “The whole thing with Haddam or Saddam and Iraq and Kuwait is nothing more than a business ploy on the part of our government to help the sailboat industry. And, frankly, I couldn’t be more pleased. Sailboat sales have been in a slump for several years. A good Middle East oil and war crisis will help put the industry on its feet again. “It’s no secret that sailboat manufacturers have had it bad for a number of years while the power boat builders have—up until recently—been making money hand over foot,” Whartz continued. “A number of sailboat builders have gone out of business, and entire lines of nice sailboats are not constructed anymore. So, it is nice to know that some people in Washington feel strongly enough about the issue to create an atmosphere whereby the entire sailboat community in this country is aided in a meaningful way.” “Wait a minute. Do you think anyone will actually believe that?” I said. “It doesn’t matter who believes it. What matters is that the price of sailboats will go up because the American public perceives them to be more valuable when fuel prices are high or fuel is scarce, or both,” Whartz replied. “But there is no precedent for anything like this in the history of our country,” I said. “You are maintaining that our elected officials are selling out to one particular business sector.” “Of course there is precedent,” Whartz said with a sharp look in my direction that said he didn’t think I had all my marbles. “Remember when high interest rates were killing the savings and loan industry? Remember when the S&Ls were stuck with having to make loans on, of all things, people’s homes? How dull! “But, during Ronald Reagan’s tenure in the White House, the entire savings and loan industry got deregulated. Then your neighborhood S&L could invest in spiffy things like country clubs or golf courses or office buildings or junk bonds. With the lid off, it didn’t matter that the loans that they granted were risky. They couldn’t fail. The government backed them up 100 percent. Bigger

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11/2/18 1:47 PM

S&Ls were able to build lavish buildings and ofﬁces and put worldclass paintings on board room walls. Those were heady times. With the right developments in the Middle East, good times could fall on the sailboat industry, too.” I thought Whartz was way offbase and said so. I told him that he was forgetting that it was the American taxpayer who was footing the bill for the deployment of American troops in the Middle East. Exactly,” said Whartz. “And it is the American taxpayer who is footing the bill for the savings and loan bailout. So, it’s really no big deal, one way or the other. It’s just a matter of accounting.” “Your logic is skewed. This whole thing is crazy,” I maintained. “Have you got any basis at all for your conjecture?” “Of course, I do,” Whartz snorted in evident disgust. “What is your source,” I persisted. “It is someone with very close ties to the White House and someone who has had inﬂuence on both the domestic and foreign policy of the United States.” “Henry Kissinger?” “No.”

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“George Schultz?” “No.” “Who is the expert who is giving you information. Put up or shut up.” I said. “It was Joan Quigley,” Whartz shot back. “Joan Quigley?” “Yeah, Joan Quigley. Don’t you know anything?” “I guess not. Who in the world is Joan Quigley?” “Joan Quigley is Nancy Reagan’s astrologer. She has as good a line as anyone on what is going on in Washington these days. She told me all about it and I believe her. I gotta go,” Whartz said impatiently. He expelled a ﬁnal squirt of tobacco juice, this time at my feet, turned around and walked back across the mud ﬂat toward his tide-bound boat. He didn’t even wave goodbye as he clambered up over the side of Right Guard and disappeared down the companionway. I know that in 2004, when nothing like what my notes described could possibly have happened, it must seem that Bubba’s take on what he thought then to be political reality was pretty far-fetched. But that is just the kind of guy he is: a dreamer and a schemer.

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142 Cruising Outpost

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Cruising Outpost 143 10/30/18 10:13 AM

Nelson’s last shore run… By John Simpson

This Spring I visited Old Portsmouth and the small Camber Dock. It was wonderful to see how this area has been rejuvenated. Nelson ate his last breakfast ashore in England very close to here, at the George Hotel (which doesn’t exist now), before the battle of Trafalgar in 1805. He left from the hotel back entrance to avoid the crowds waiting to see him going down to the beach (the fellow was mobbed like a rock star), passing the 500-year-old Square Tower used by the Navy 200 years ago to store meat - bet that smelt good! Crossing a drawbridge through a Sally Port to a Redoubt Fort on the shore, he then joined a boat which rowed him out to his ﬂagship, HMS Victory, and his fate. She was anchored in St. Helen’s Road (east of the Wight).

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Thirty years ago we used to come into the Camber with our school boats. It was useful to teach students how to tie up onto a harbour wall using long warps and a fender board, with the rise and fall of the tide. Plus it was a free mooring! The place and pub were very dilapidated, though many local ﬁshing boats still used this handy place. Once I awoke to ﬁnd the boat we were using, Gallivanter, pinned down by the bows (on a rising tide) with part of a ruined harbour wall ladder! All the crew’s weight was need to free her. New houses and pontoons were just being built, so sometimes we would tie up to them. Nowadays Ben Ainsle (with Land Rover sponsoring) is using part of this dock as a base for his

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10/30/18 10:16 AM

America’s Cup campaign. There’s also storage racks for powerboats and RIBs with quick forklift access to the water, and a good diving school. The Bridge Tavern looks much posher with a good mural painted outside… Careful timing is still needed to enter the dock due to the Isle of Wight ferries very close to the north. Their wash sweeps round into the tiny basin; when a ferry leaves, good attention on your boat is needed if you’re moored to the wall. Portsmouth Harbour’s main entrance has always been narrow and busy with I-O-W ferries, ferries to France,

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and of course, the Royal Navy. It’s still controlled by a Queen’s Harbour Master, meaning that the Royal Navy can close it anytime. Currently, the narrow channel is being dredged for the new aircraft carriers being built in Scotland. Small boats have to keep very close to the west and must use their engines even if a sail is hoisted. Thinking about Nelson’s last walk through the old town still brings a shiver down my spine. The forts, beach and old walls still attract many visitors. It was wonderful to see it all again on a hot, sunny day.

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Dook’s Dock:

The Transmission Mechanic By Catherine Dook He brought us joy – and a boat transmission. “Twenty-five hundred dollars, installed,” he told John breezily. “I’m saving you a f**ing fortune.” “You don’t have to raise the engine to get the old transmission out?” John asked. His voice was tentative, but his facial expression was hopeful. “Hell no,” he replied. He knelt over our engine room, a tall man in greasy green coveralls. “Loosen the coupling and slide it out of there, then unscrew the bolts and pull the transmission out. You lucked out when you hired me.” “The bolts are rusted,” John ventured. “Hell, I unscrew bolts worse’n that for fun. I unscrewed six this morning before breakfast. Speaking of screwing...” His eyes lit on me. “Well hell – o! There’s a mermaid onboard this vessel. How do you do, Ma’am?” With a graceful gesture, he kissed my hand. “Boy, are we glad to see you,” I said. “So how about a hug?” he asked. “No, no, I’m all covered with grease and shit.” He grinned. “My girlfriend likes the smell of diesel,” he continued. “Drives her crazy.” He sounded reflective and his heart full of

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sunshine. He shook his head at whatever memory was making him so happy, then turned his attention back to our transmission. “I’ll fix you up with a brand new refurbished one,” he said. “What colour would you like me to paint it?” “Green, to match the engine,” John said. “I’ll paint it red,” he said. “But I like green,” John said. “You’ll get red,” he replied. “Now how about you take me out for lunch? Any good Chinese restaurants around here? I like Chinese food.” That set the tone for our relationship. Confident of his ability, he pooh-pooed any difficulties and then, to our admiration and awe, he delivered. “Got that transmission pulled in a day,” he crowed. “Pretty good, if I do say so myself. Help me drag it up the dock? That is one butt-ugly transmission. And by the way, you got the filthiest bilge on the BC coast. I want it cleaned out before I come back here. Buy a bag of rags. You’ll need all of them to clean THAT bilge.” He paused and climbed into the cockpit and lit up a smoke.

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11/3/18 3:14 PM

“How about some lunch? I liked the food at that Chinese restaurant we went to yesterday. The won-ton soup was good. Waitress was nice, too. You come with us, Catherine. I insist.” “And I pay, of course?” John asked. “Of course,” he replied. By this time I was mildly suspicious of the motives of our transmission mechanic, whose eyes had followed me with approval and who had upon occasion reached over to pat me on the shoulder or back. “How about you lend her to me for the weekend?” he asked my husband. “I’ll give her back on Monday. She’ll be pretty tired when she gets back, though.” Now, I am not without cunning, so before we left for lunch I grabbed a foot-long pair of knitting needles attached to a half-knit mohair hat and waved them conspicuously as I climbed into his truck. Our mechanic eyed the knitting needles and kept his hands to himself. I am not unfamiliar with the use of props to discourage unwanted attention. Years ago when I went on a date to a drive-in with a young man I intended to slow down, I kept my seat belt on, but I digress. The wonton soup was delicious, and the company invigorating. After lunch, as the men lingered over their coffee, I picked up my knitting. “Doesn’t she ever stop?” he asked John. “You pay the bill. I’m going to talk to the waitress.” Before he left for the day, I promised to clean the bilge to his specifications. “Make it shine,” he told me, then raised his hand in salute and walked down the dock, a tall confident figure in orange coveralls, our busted transmission tied down on the bed of his truck, and a look of content on his face at a job well done and a stomach full of wonton soup. The next day we hung upside down into the bilge to clean it. Our mechanic was wrong. The bilge soaked up only HALF the bag of rags, and that was after we’d pumped it dry. That evening I received a flirtatious text on my cell phone. “Are you the beautiful mermaid who lives in Cowichan Bay,” it began. “Good heavens,” I exclaimed to John, who was helpless with laughter. “I haven’t been alluring in 20 years! He must be drunk or desperate of both. What part

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of our interaction was irresistible?” I continued. “Was it the Italian opera I played on the CD, the knitting needles I waved around like weapons, or was it the nutritious muffins I baked?” “It was probably the nutritious muffins that tipped him over,” John agreed. “Should I make the ‘former Sunday-school teacher and presently happily married’ argument? No!” I answered my own question. “Marine mechanics are scarce as hen’s teeth in the summer. I shall flirt back.” Our mechanic returned a week later, sober and apologetic, and with a refurbished transmission painted fire-engine red. It would have taken him only a day to install it, but as he was shoving the coupling back on the shaft there was an unfortunate incident. He had asked John to help him. “You climb over me and grab my big pipe. Just don’t touch me unless you mean business.” Then, after John was in the engine room, I heard his voice. “It’s on!” John said, “It’s tight!” “They’re all tight,” our mechanic said. “Slow, though. It’s like trying to do a virgin – takes about a week.” As soon as John crawled out, something shifted. A 12-volt wire shorted out and burned a hole in an injector line, which sprayed fuel straight onto the short and then the fuel ignited like a blow torch. A bang, and a flash of light and everyone yelled, and then our mechanic saved us from certain death by ripping out the 12-volt wire, and then we went out for won-ton soup. “Lit up your engine room like fireworks,” our mechanic told us. “Man, you have an ugly engine room.” He lit up a cigarette. “Fire’s out and even your reduction plate’s okay. You got horseshoes up your ass. You lucked out when you hired me.” We didn’t argue. Another visit or two, and the transmission was installed. Even in the gloom of the engine room, our transmission gleamed as red as blood, as pure as honour, as beautiful as optimism. It was too late in the season to actually boat anywhere, but now we had the promise of next year. As for this season, our transmission mechanic was the most fun I’d had all summer. He kissed my hand when he left.

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e h t g n i s i u r C o t e A Beginners Guid n a g i h c i M f o s r e t Unsalted Wa By Adam Claypool

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We left St. Joseph, timing our departure for both the 10:45 a.m. opening of the Bicentennial Bridge and the 11:00 a.m. opening of the Blossomland Bridge, leaving St. Joe with winds out of the northwest at 5-10 knots. We started with a pleasant motor sail, then turned the engine off about an hour in, enjoying a nice beam reach at 3.5 knots in six knots of wind. It was Carla’s idea to turn the engine off, and I smiled when she made the suggestion. It is far more romantic to be completely under sail. As we got closer to South Haven, we passed by the Palisades Nuclear Power Plant in Covert, making sure to steer clear of the security zone in the water. Not too long after, we caught sight of Friends Good Will, a reproduction of a merchant square-rigged topsail sloop from the War of 1812. It was amazing to see this boat on the horizon. The ship’s large sails were a sight to behold from several miles away. Seeing such a ship from a by-gone era gets your imagination spinning as you ponder what it was like to once see tall ships roaming the Great Lakes and beyond. After a little over six hours, we docked in South Haven. The Eastern-European woman from the radio who called me “Cap-ee-tan” was there to greet us at the dock and help tie our lines off. Now that’s service! We started the next morning watching a major downpour gradually pass as we sat in the air-conditioned common room at the South Haven Municipal Marina. While we waited, we talked to a nice couple who told us all about the virtues of sailing the North Channel, the body of water along the north shore of Lake Huron in Ontario. They said it was their favorite cruising grounds. Maybe one day! The rain cleared and we set sail for Holland (actually, Macatawa in Lake Macatawa). The rain helped ratchet up the humidity, so we both enjoyed a dock line drag-and-dip in Lake Michigan. This was a first for me, and let me tell you, there is no better way to cool off on a hot day!

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The day started with a northeast wind at 5–10 knots that eventually turned to an easterly wind at 10 knots, making for some absolutely excellent sailing. We were cruising at 6.1 knots, sailing on a broad reach. I’m pretty sure this was my speed record since owning the boat. We arrived at Eldean Shipyard to discover a marina smackdab in the middle of a residential neighborhood. We had dinner and checked tomorrow’s weather. There was a small craft advisory, but it was one that looked borderline. We figured we might have a window of smaller waves if we left early. We decided to make the call once we saw how things looked in the morning. At 6:15 a.m. the next day, I hiked to the beach to check out the lake conditions. It looked like we could do it, so we did! For the most part, it was fantastic. The wind was consistently 12– 17 knots, and we achieved a new boat record of 6.8 knots! We were heeling at about 20 degrees, and Carla thought this was exhilarating. For most of the 18-nautical-mile trip, life was great. My inexperience had me thinking, “We laugh at your small craft advisory!” Well, the weather gods heard me, because the next thing I knew, the wind was blowing 20 knots and the waves reached the predicted 3–5 feet, with rollers picking us up and dropping us down. After pointing into the waves for about 45 minutes and making little progress, I decided we should turn towards shore and surf the waves in hopes that we could get some protection from the breakwater

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even though we were almost two nautical miles away. Whether it was good luck or a good call, we were able to turn back into the waves and wind—and get the main down in short order. We were still two nautical miles to the channel. We motored into the breaking waves for what seemed like forever, until we finally made it to the channel. I immediately realized the waves were flowing directly up the channel, and bouncing off both walls, turning the channel into a dangerous washing machine. Talk about white knuckles glued to the wheel! But, we finally made it through. Once we got into the river, things calmed

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down—and our hearts could finally return to their normal beating patterns. One thing was for sure, this trip was the exact adventure I had hoped it would be. The two of us are making a great team, and we’ve agreed we would love to do another trip like this in the future. We found Grand Haven so charming, we decided to stay put an extra day—it was a great decision. The day began with a visit to the Farmer’s Market right across from our boat. We then made our way to a great little coffee shop in the downtown area, and after caffeinating, walked to the West Marine store where I purchased a

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new joker valve for my head. My friend Kyle Maginity, who lives across from West Marine, picked us up and stopped by the boat. He had never been on a boat before, and it took a bit of coaxing to get him to agree to go for a sail. But, he agreed, and he got that perfect sailing day sailors dream about. We had 12 knots of wind, one-foot waves, and sun. With Kyle manning the helm, and Carla and I trimming the sails, we hit 7.3 knots—and for those of you keeping track, that’s three boat records in as many days! After our sail, I calculated our hull speed at 6.7 knots, so I was incredibly happy that Epitome was making a habit of surpassing hull speed! I tried telling Kyle that the weather is rarely this perfect, but it didn’t matter, he was already hooked. He texted me a picture of him surfing sailboatlistings.com later that day. After we arrived back to our slip, we bid Kyle goodbye and Carla volunteered to try fixing the marine toilet by switching out the joker valve. God bless her! We left Grand Haven around 8:00 a.m. and motor sailed on a close reach in five knots of wind. The winds eventually backed to the south pushing us downwind at about 10 knots. As we approached White Lake en route to Whitehall, we needed binoculars to spot the entrance to the channel. It took about 40 minutes to motor from Lake Michigan to Whitehall. All was well, until we were about 50 yards from our slip. The charts said it was shallow, so I called to verify we could get in. They said, “Sure, no problem, it’s 12 feet deep getting into the marina.” What they neglected to say was how overgrown this part of the lake was with aquatic weeds. They were so thick that our depth gauge kept telling us we were running aground! Our propeller eventually became entangled in the weeks, rendering the engine inoperable. We called the marina, and they sent a small aluminum rowboat with two

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teenage girls rowing toward us. I chuckled to myself, then got on the radio to the other marina across the way. They had a pontoon boat with a 15-horsepower outboard motor. They made no promises, but were willing to come to our aid. As we tied up to the boat, I was thinking, “there is no way they’re going to be able to move us.” Well, slowly but surely, they were able to free us from the weeds! They motored us over to our slip, and we tied up. What heroes! After they departed I put on a wetsuit and some diver’s goggles, and set about working to untangle the weeds from the prop while Carla used the marina’s sea rake to try and clear the weeds from our slip. After about 30 minutes, we successfully completed this project. Phew—this trip sure has been an adventure! There was another small craft advisory, so we decided to spend our last day in Whitehall. We did some laundry, laid around, read books, and played card games. Then we headed to the best part of Whitehall: Fetch Brewery (our second visit in as many days). We drank some beer and cider, played some of their board games, then headed back to the boat and watched Jaws on my iPad. I would love to keep heading north, but work calls on Monday. Nolan will be here tomorrow morning to shuttle Epitome back to St. Joseph. I loved every minute of this trip. This adventure provided me with a lot of knowledge and conﬁdence. While most of our sailing was smooth, there were a few major obstacles we had to overcome, and we overcame them together, gaining valuable experience and conﬁdence.

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11/5/18 12:06 PM

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10/31/18 11:21 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show SinceSince we get to (have to??) spend a lot of time at boat shows, we figured we probably should do some actual work. Strangely enough, drinking we get to (have to??) spend a lot of time at boat shows, we figured we probably should do some actual work. Strangely enough, drinking Painkillers and and eating show-dogs doesn’t quite the IRS IRS people peoplethink thinkisiswork. work. order to able be able to write offthe allboat the boat Painkillers eating show-dogs doesn’t quitemeasure measureup up to to what what the So,So, in in order to be to write off all showshow expenses, we actually have to to walk to feature featureininthe themagazine. magazine. someone’s expenses, we actually have walkaround aroundand andfind find new new stuff stuff to It’sIt’s notnot an an easyeasy job,job, but but someone’s gottagotta do it!do it!

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Some of the benefits you’ll find are that it extends cellular signal range and gives reliable cell signal and more consistent data speeds It also gives you faster data downloads. Want more info? You can go to their website and see their line-up at www.weboost.com.

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10/30/18 10:22 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show

M&B Ship Canvas The World’s Finest Seabags & Ditty Bags

M&B Ship Canvas specialize in traditional seabags and ditty bags that are hand-built, the old fashioned way. They have several style variations and three sizes. The detailing and quality of each bag lives up to the M&B reputation; nothing leaves the shop unless it’s perfect. Each bag has its own serial number and a lifetime warranty. Serial numbers are heat-branded and embossed onto leather patches. These bags are entirely made in the USA. Everything is built at their own shop; nothing is outsourced. M&B bags are built from heavyweight duck canvas with wide, overlapping seams and hand-tied stitching with oil-tanned leather reinforcements and chafe patches using solid brass spur grommets. The New England rope lanyard doubles as an adjustable carry strap, enabling the bag to be worn as a shoulder bag, crossbody, backpack, or upright tote. The solid copper slider keeps the bag securely closed.

The full size interior storm flap keeps gear dry and incorporates a cargo pocket for quick access items (phone, wallet, passport, electronics, etc.). Depending on the bag style, the bottom is either double-layered canvas (36 ounces total) or 5/32”-thick oil-tanned leather. All bags are made with hand-tied, zig-zag stitching. Want more info? Go to shipcanvas.com.

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I Found It At The Boat Show

Barz Sunglass-Readers Polarized Sunglasses with Bi-focal Reader Lenses

In 1996, Kevin Barr founded Barz Optics, an Australian-based family company that sells sunglasses and goggles. Kevin, a former surfing champion, has 30 years of experience participating and working in the surfing, snow ski, and sailboard industries. During those years, he encountered fellow outdoor-sports athletes who expressed an unfulfilled desire to have sunglasses that not only protected their eyes from UV rays, but could also be used as “readers.” Sailors, we have needed something like this for a long time. Sitting on deck while reading a good book is part of the cruising lifestyle. Now, you can be comfortable and not have to wear sunglasses over reading glasses (or vice-versa!).

Over the last ten years Barz Optics has expanded its products to include a wide range of unique sunglasses and swim goggles. If you’re looking for sunglasses, they offer pairs that are prescription or non-prescription, polarized or non-polarized, photochromatic, or simply dark. Swim goggles can also be ordered with prescription or darkened lenses. Barz offers lenses in a variety of materials, which has allowed them to produce ﬂoating models, polycarbonate photochromic lenses, and prescription swim goggles. So if you’ve had the problem of ﬁnding good reading sunglasses, this could well be your answer. For more info you can go to barzoptics.com. Tell ‘em Bob sent you!

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and Marine Sports Expo

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Craneway Pavilion and Marina Bay Yacht Harbor Richmond, CA

50,000 sq. ft. of Exhibitors on Land On-Water Activities In-Water Displays of the Newest Sail and Power Cruising Boats Expert Seminars to Expand Your Knowledge Special Events On-Site Parking Ferry service from San Francisco to the Craneway scheduled to begin early 2019

PacificBoatShow.com @PacificSailandPowerBoatShow WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

pg 159 Pacific Sail Expo.indd 1

Produced by:

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@pacificboatshow Cruising Outpost 159

10/31/18 11:35 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show

Snappi No More Struggling to Remove Canvas This is the first patented tool to clean and lubricate metal snaps found on boats, RVs, and all sorts of other outdoor equipment. Maintaining the snaps on your boat and other gear is very important—ask any boater who has ever tried to remove a rusted snap! Enter Snappi, the tool that can end the frustrations of stuck canvas snaps which often result in ripped boat covers. Here is a tool that can not only clean the snap head but lubricates it as well. Yes, there are other methods to lubricate snaps, but they are tedious, time-consuming, and often messy—and they do nothing to clean off the salt and grime that has built up on the snap, which is probably why the snap got stuck or rusted in the first place. Here’s how it works: The Snappi has three abrasive teeth that grab the snap head. When pressing down and turning the Snappi on a snap, the teeth clean the snap while Snappi applies a light lubricant to the snap itself, allowing canvas covers to go on and off with ease. On top of the Snappi is an abrasive pad, designed to clean any residue in the Snappi’s cap. So, there you have it. Just when you thought there was nothing new to make a cruiser’s life easier, along comes Snappi. For more info on the Snappi you can go to snap-a-lot.com.

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section 160 Cruising Outpost pg 155-163 ATBS - editedbyKatie.indd 6

www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/18 10:23 AM

(advertisement)

It’s Show time! Set a course for Miami February 14–18, 2019 For nearly eight decades, the Progressive® Insurance Miami International Boat Show™ has turned Miami, Florida into the capital of boating in North America. Over the course of five days, the entire recreational boating world comes together at Miami Marine Stadium for an event like no other: The Five Biggest Days in Boating®. With more than 1,500 boats displayed on land and in the water, 1,000,000+ sq. ft. of exhibit space, 1,100 exhibitors from all over the world, the show is the BIGGEST consumer event in Florida. Yep. Not even the Super Bowl can beat it. It’s Florida’s premier sailing rendezvous. After its successful debut in 2018, sailing will be back at Miami Marine Stadium in 2019. Sailboats—both monohulls and catamarans—will be docked exclusively at Pier 9. Sailing gear, rigging, clothing, sail travel, and charter services will be showcased in an area dubbed Sailor’s Cove—a section within the show’s tented display spaces dedicated to sailing. Trending Topics. See the top trends in the marine marketplace, from the latest in technological developments to cutting-edge technologies and services. Get your hands on newest products—the stuff you’ve only seen online or items that local stores don’t carry. And of course, be here for the debut of new sailboat models from leading builders. Meet & Greet. Aside from the chance to be the first to see what’s new for 2019, one of the best things about the show is the chance to hang out with thousands of like-minded folks. Even the powerboaters at the show love life on the water and share a passion for the freedom you can find only at the helm. If you’re new to the sport, the opportunity to talk to industry experts face-to-face is invaluable. Boost Your Sailing IQ. The show is also a great place to expand your horizons. There’s hands-on, on-water training and a terrific curriculum of full-day workshops presented by Nigel Calder, Chris Parker and Jeff Grossman, and Jean Levine. Immerse Yourself. Not only is there lots to see at the show, there’s lots to do. Head to the demo docks for product demonstrations and sea trials. Food and drink options are top-notch and cater to every taste. Care to really spurge? Treat yourself to the show’s VIP Experience and enjoy complimentary dining with open bar, live music, an airconditioned lounge, outdoor deck, and much more. Make a Deal. Last, but certainly not least, exhibitors are here to compete for your attention—and to make a sale. Make the most of it! Whether you’re in the market for a new boat, the latest gear, or your next charter adventure, you’d be hard pressed to find a better place to make a deal. Getting there. Make it easy on yourself and take advantage of the show’s convenient transportation options. During the show Virginia Key is serviced by water taxi and shuttle bus service—just park and ride from downtown Miami or take the Metrorail, Metromover, or Brightline to one of the transportation hubs. Complete details can be found at www. MiamiBoatShow.com/transportation. www.cruisingoutpost.com

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11/1/18 4:16 PM

I Found It At The Boat Show

SmartPlug

Outside of a dog, a book is man’s best friend. Inside of a dog it’s too dark to read. – Groucho Marx

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The number one cause of shore power failure and fires is not electrical shorting. Rather, it is overheating caused by poor electrical conductivity. SmartPlug’s 4-Stage solution protects against overheating every step of the way. Loose connections are addressed by a sleeve design and multi-point locking system which takes all the physical stress off of the pins while securely fastening the plug to receptacle. Pin contact area is increased

by more than 20x and protected behind three weatherproof seals for a dry, corrosion-free connection. SmartPlugs employ two locking side levers as well as two points of contact on the locking cap to ensure a rock-solid connection. When not in use, the cap can be closed to form a weatherproof seal on the inlet. At last, there is a safe way to connect to shore power. If you’d like to know more go to smartplug.com.

30 Amp 50’ cord

50 Amp Connector

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section 162 Cruising Outpost

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www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/18 10:23 AM

I Found It At The Boat Show

The GoSun Go Cooker It’s Portable and Uses Solar Power for Heat

The GoSun Go is the most portable solar-cooker in the GoSun lineup. Using only the sun, the GoSun Go can bake, roast, or steam a meal as well as boil liquids, reaching temperatures as high as 550°F/ 288°C. So, it’s perfect for the next beach cook-out. What’s in the package? A durable evacuated glass tube oven, with two parabolic reflectors, an EVA frame, a stainless steel cooking tray, control dial, silicone cooking pans, universal mount, cleaning brush, user manual, and mini Cookbook to help you get started. The benefits of this unit are pretty much self evident. But, in case they aren’t, it cooks a meal in as little as 20 minutes, boils water in 45 minutes, reaches temperatures

above 550° F, and it is very versatile. You can roast, bake, steam, pasteurize water, rehydrate food, or heat drinks Oh, yeah, and it is super portable, weighing just 2 pounds, so you can use it on a beach, or on-board. It zips into a compression-molded EVA foam clamshell designed to absorb impacts All it takes is a little sun and you are, as they say, cooking! The GoSun Go can cook up to 12.5 fluid ounces at a time, or it can boil over 13 ounces. It is 14.17” wide by 7” tall and 3.37” deep, making it easy to pack and carry! If you want more info on this amazing little portable cooker, you can go to gosun.co. Tell ‘em Bob sent you!

Cruising Outpost Event & Boat Show Section www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Cruising Outpost 163

10/31/18 10:01 AM

Cruising Outpost’s Book Reviews

by Capt. Jim Cash

AS LONG AS IT’S FUN The Epic Voyages and Extraordinary Times of Lin and Larry Pardey By Herb McCormick (Executive Editor of Cruising World)

I was rearranging the books from my nautical library after a recent move into a new home, and found the epic boat builders’ book Details of the Classic Boat Construction, The Hull by Larry Pardey, published in 1991. It was the story and details of building Lin and Larry Pardey’s 29’ cutter-rigged Taleisin in 1983. Seeing that book conjured up memories of all the fabulous cruising books these two consummate sailors have given us over the years. When the opportunity arose to review Herb McCormick’s new biography of the famous sailing couple, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on it and share it with you. Mr. McCormick introduces us to Lin and Larry in his preface, though unless you are a newcomer to sailing and to Cruising Outpost, it would be unlikely you would not have heard of them. As is pointed out, the Pardeys need no introduction. They have been called “cruising royalty,” “the first couple of cruising,” and “the reigning king and queen of voyaging” by those in the cruising scene. This biography

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can be likened to a cradle-to-thegrave story; though Lin and Larry are, as of this writing, in retirement at their home in New Zealand. Lin Zatkin was born in Detroit of first-generation Russian immigrants in 1944 and was apparently very much her own self from the get-go. The family had a taste for outdoors and adventure and Lin first learned to sail in a 13-foot Old Town sloop at a nearby lake in Michigan. While still young, her family moved to Southern California, where she attended school, continued to lock horns with her mother, and grew to adulthood. Years later her position with the Big Boy restaurant chain would lead her life over another horizon, as Bob Wian, its founder, had an interest in sailing. Young Larry took his first sail in British Columbia’s Shuswap Lake region and discovered that messing around with boats was quite fun, as well as challenging. His first sailboat was a “well-used” El Toro dinghy, which he soon outgrew, and was followed by a succession of boats leading up to “the first true love of his life”: a 19-year-old, 27-foot double-ended Tumlaren-class sloop called Annalisa. He and his mates campaigned this boat successfully, integrated the yacht club scene, and became acquainted with several local sailors who had built their own boats and embarked on the cruising lifestyle. Perhaps the most influential of these was John Guzzwell, who built a simple 20’ yawl called Trekka in his mother’s garage and ultimately sailed it around the world. Larry said, “I can do that,” and the seed was planted. He wondered where to go to get a job working on yachts and his query was answered with “Newport Beach, California.” He was soon boarding a bus from his native Canada. Larry fell in with the sailing crowd and got a job sailing to Hawaii on the 85-foot schooner Double Eagle. The vessel was also being used as background for the TV series The Wackiest Ship in the Army. The skipper was “Slippery” Bob Sloan, who was to eventually introduce our cruising couple to each other. It was also Sloan who first suggested that Larry consider building his own boat, and introduced him to the Lyle Hess designed boat Renegade, a 24-footer based

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11/1/18 4:27 PM

on a traditional English workboat with a long bowsprit and gaff mainsail. Larry fell in love again and acquired the plans, rented a workspace, and started lofting the lines. Lin, having also met Sloan through her boss at the Big Boy company, had been promised sailing lessons. When she showed up, the yacht was gone but Larry drove up asking, “remember me?” They had met in the bar the night before. In November of 1968 they launched the finally completed Seraffyn of Victoria in Newport Beach with Lin saying, “Here we go,” as the champagne bottle shattered across the bow. With that, they were off on their first circumnavigation as a married couple. “Lin and Larry ‘wore’ their boat like a well-tailored suit,” reported the story in the San Diego Union in the spring of 1969 as the couple crossed the border and headed south on the adventure that would take them 12 years before they crossed their wake back in Newport Beach. Covering the mid-portion of the globe west coast to east coast, from Panama Canal, Caribbean, to England and Europe, Mediterranean Sea, Indian Ocean, Japan, across to Vancouver and back to California, they earned their keep while voyaging by writing articles, publishing the first of their many books and doing the occasional deliveries. They did not stop. Two days after Larry’s 43rd birthday, their second boat, Taleisin was launched at Newport Beach and the couple was off again, this time westward. Their travelogue this time would include the tropical islands of the South Pacific, conjuring up all the images we have seen in romantic books and movies of swaying palms and aqua-colored, crystal-clear anchorages. In New Zealand, they had an opportunity to buy a piece of waterfront property on Kawau Island, and they put down roots, or at least the foundation for them. They worked hard and established a true “home base,” but soon the itch was back and again they were off, heading westward and on to more fascinating journeys. Before reading about the final voyage that capped off Larry’s dream of having “arrived” as a historic sailor (in the Joshua Slocum sense), we learn of the publishing world that kept our sailors alive financially, and of the controversy and critics that follow all those that find their way into the publishing limelight. We are reminded of Elizabeth Meyer (whose grandfather owned the Washington Post) who was instrumental in restoring the J Class yachts, beginning with the famed Endeavour, a 130’ J-class 1934 America’s Cup contender. We catch up with Nathanial Philbrick, author of Heart of the Sea, a book about the whaling ship Essex which was the inspiration for Herman Melville’s Moby Dick. We learn about Don Street, also a famed engineless cruiser and author of ground-breaking cruising guides; and John Rousmaniere’s Fastnet, Force Ten which tells the true story of one of the worst racing disasters in history. All of these lives and careers intertwined with Lin and Larry. We learn of the near rejection of the novel by the young Sebastian Junger that the Pardey’s were asked to review. If it were not for their encouragement to publisher W.W. Norton & Co. to go ahead, we may not have had the wildly successful The Perfect Storm, later made into the Academy Award nominated film. In the final, still engrossing chapters we are treated to Lin and Larry’s last major voyage. Leaving the African continent, they headed west to Cape Horn, which would put the final feather in the “long-range cruising cap,” as Larry makes the hard and fast decision to retire from passagemaking and into the New Zealand sunsets. It was all about their defining motto: “As Long As It’s Fun.” This is a captivating, richly detailed book, full of lively real-life characters and embedded with the wanderlust that motivates us to hoist our sails.

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Cruising Outpost 165

11/1/18 4:29 PM

Talk of the Dock Boats, Boat Shows & Boondoggles

Winter’s Comin’–Get Your Boat News Here

Not psyched about the cold dark north this year? Some good boat news should bring a little sunshine to your winter fantasies. New Boats for New Adventures If you’re searching for your next boat, rejoice in the fact that a bunch of new hulls (mono and multi) just premiered on the East Coast. For example, the new Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 319 is tiny, but a ton of fun with an impressive amount of interior volume and all the amenities you need for a great beer can race or a weekend away. Its bigger sister, the Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410, is now available with Jeanneau’s award-winning “walk-around” deck which saves you from having to climb over the cockpit coaming to move from stern to bow. If you want to blow your hair back in style, check out the Xp 55 by X-Yachts of Denmark. Speedy and sexy, this sleek performance cruiser will get you noticed in any anchorage. For fun on two hulls, get on the new Fountaine Pajot Astrea 42. It’s the only boat in this class with a hydraulic swim platform— and that’s one teak beach you won’t want to miss. For the traditionalists, Tim Jackett has a new Tartan 395, an evolution of the popular Tartan 3700 of which 170 hulls were launched. And for those who scoff at traditional styling, there are two models that are a must-see. The Beneteau Figaro 3 is a foil-stabilized one-design racer from designers VPLP, the firm behind the last two Vendee Globe winners. And the Neel 51, the coolest cruising trimaran anywhere, will make you rethink the concept of three hulls. Named “European Boat of the Year” for 2018, this tri has the comfort, space, and accommodations of a large catamaran but seems like a barn-burner in the right conditions. Watch for these and other new boats at all of the boat shows this winter. Annapolis Boat Show Hits Its Stride This year, the Annapolis boat show grew by 2% in attendance as they offered a multitude of shopping and learning opportunities. Charter companies, boat brokers,

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local marine businesses, sailing schools, accessory and apparel manufacturers, yacht clubs, and others had booths along downtown’s Ego Alley. There’s no saltier show than this—and it’s a jolly good time to boot. From kayaks and inflatables, to electric engines, SUPs and giant multihulls, if it sailed, motored, paddled, or generally floated, it was on display. There was even an impressive selection of large multihulls such as Fountaine Pajot, Lagoon, Leopard, Bavaria, Balance, Bali, Catana, Outremer, and HH Catamarans. Vacation Basin, which is dedicated to chartering and charter boat ownership, welcomed a new addition— the Mediterranean Corner where 10 Med-based charter companies highlighted the popularity of Croatia. A floating VIP lounge was available for those who wanted to escape the crowds for a bit, and an interactive “Take the Wheel” workshop that quickly sold out. Nearly two dozen models were on display, so there was no shortage of things to do and see. If you’ve never attended the Annapolis sailboat show, you may be drummed out of the world of sailing. It’s the mecca for old salts, world cruisers and even some racing rock stars. It’s the first week of October, so put it on your calendar for next year and get ready for boats, crabs, and Pain Killers! Charter News Two hot bits of charter news to report here. First, Wauquiez is offering its new 42-foot, two-cabin, two-head model in Dream Yacht Charter. Expect to see a couple around a new Northeast base (rumored to open in Newport, Rhode Island next year). This is no fiberglass battlewagon, but in fact, a very sophisticated yacht you don’t find in charter very often so if you’re looking to test one and need a boondoggle, you’re welcome. Finally, if you’re considering a charter in Croatia next summer, know that there are no fewer than a dozen local firms offering vessels. Do check on the age of their fleet, but rest assured that you can now charter with smaller companies in addition to the big four: Dream Yacht, Moorings, Navigare, and Sunsail. www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/1/18 1:34 PM

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10/31/18 10:24 AM

Tech Tips

from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop There are a lot of little things that can make your boat easier to use and more enjoyable. Here are some tips from Paul Esterle, the author of Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop. More can be found at www.captnpauley.com.

Boat Graphics Made Easy Vinyl hull lettering is a costeffective and durable solution to hull graphics. There are a multitude of vinyl sign suppliers: local ones that usually do more than just boats, suppliers that hang out at boat shows, and ones available on the internet. Many of those on the internet will allow you to design sample layouts with different fonts, colors, and effects Some of the options offered, in addition to the font color, are borders around the letters and drop shadows. You can copy the samples to a computer and then print them out on a color printer so you can compare them side-by-side. You can then use that graphic in conjunction with a banner program to print out samples in varying sizes. Once you do that, all you need to do is tape the samples to the hull and stand back to evaluate the sizing. You can then send samples and the graphics to the lettering vendor. Be sure to ask for a quote and delivery time when you do!

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#1 The artwork for the custom graphic part of the boat name.

#2: A sample of a proposed boatname. When printed out full size, it can be taped to the boat for evaluation.

WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/1/18 1:31 PM

Tech Tips from Capt’n Pauley’s Workshop

#3: A final sample downloaded from the graphics supplier’s web site

#5: The name portion of the graphic drying on the hull

#4: A proposed layout taped to the hull for evaluation

#6: A close-up of the custom tern graphic

To install, wash the hull with soap and water to remove any dirt, grease or wax prior to installing the graphics. Fill up a spray bottle with water and a little dish soap and spray this on the back of the vinyl graphic. Also, spray the hull where the boat name would go. Place the name in its proper location. The soapy water under the vinyl will allow you to slide it around until you have it in the exact location you want. The graphics come with a plastic squeegee to finish the installation and ensure there are no air bubbles underneath the vinyl. Let the name dry for an hour. This allows the vinyl to bond to the hull. Once it is dry, peel off the top protective layer by folding it back 180 degrees and slowly pulling it away from the letters.

#7: The finished installation

www.cruisingoutpost.com

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Cruising Outpost 169

11/1/18 1:31 PM

1978 50’ Gulfstar - $150,000 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

2008 49’ Hunter - $237,500 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1980 44’ Cherubini - $99,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1978 43’ Gulfstar - $48,000 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

2001 42’ Catalina - $119,900 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288

1979 42’ Pearson - $66,500 Ryan Daniels - 904.580.0559

1981 42’ Passport - $77,000 Brad Peterson - 305.481.1512

1977 42’ Ta Chiao - $65,000 Clark and SaraNell Jelley - 561.676.8445

1978 41’ Morgan - $52,500 Clark and SaraNell Jelley - 561.676.8445

1996 40’ Freedom - $129,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

2005 36’ Beneteau - $102,000 Brad Peterson - 305.481.1512

2001 34’ Bavaria - $55,900 Mark Welsh - 410.645.0007

To see more details about these and all other yachts around the globe, please visit our website at

www.curtisstokes.net 170 Cruising Outpost

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11/1/18 3:28 PM

Worldwide Yacht Sales Yacht Charters New Yacht Construction

2001 47’ Great Harbour - $530,000 Joe and Punk Pica - 252.631.1097

1989 47’ Custom - $159,900 Charity Garey - 423.580.4330

2003 45’ Bruce Roberts - $124,900 Stewart Reeser - 410.924.8295

2002 44’ Endeavour - $239,500 Quentin Haynie - 804.577.7227

2005 44’ Endeavour - $259,500 Tom Russell - 904.382.9610

1995 43’ Sabreline - $267,500 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

2001 43’ Mainship - $199,500 Larry Hammett - 251.550.9632

1979 42’ Grand Banks - $114,500 Greg Merritt - 813.294.9288

1998 42’ Treworgy - $295,000 Lin Earley - 757.672.2778

2005 41’ American Tug - $425,000 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

1983 38’ Californian Sundeck - $79,800 Larry Hammett - 251.550.9632

2008 37’ Mirage - $325,000 Joe and Punk Pica - 252.631.1097

1.855.266.5676 | 954.684.0218 | info@curtisstokes.net www.cruisingoutpost.com

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11/1/18 3:29 PM

New England

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16,674 15,500 23,395 19,500 Sold 17,800 60,000 34,900 19,000 15,000 9,500 16,000 130,000 17,900 19,500 19,900 89,900 Sold

33’ E33 L Morse 2010 139,900 34’ Sabre 34 Targa 1989 Sold 34’ Catalina 34 1987 29,700 35’ Catalina 350 2007 118,000 35’ Catalina 350 2006 Sold 35’ C&C 35 mkII , 1975 20,975 36’ Cheoy Lee Pedrck 1985 21,500 36’ de Dood Int. 1961 99,900 36’ Catalina MKII 2005 89,700 36’ Catalina MKII 2000 79,000 39’ Jeanneau 39 DS P 2010 149,900 38’ Sabre 38mkII 1995 99,700 40’ Catalina 400 2001 Sold 40’ Catalina 400 2004 175,000 47’ Lindgren Ketch 1936 10,700 50’ Herreshoff Sch. 1985 Sold 54’ Jeanneau 54ds 2009 Sold 59’ Perry Custom 2006 873,500

Naples, FL 207-332-2239 WWW.CRUISINGOUTPOST.COM

11/1/18 3:48 PM

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YACHT SALES BELLHAVEN BROKERS ARE ALWAYS IN SEARCH OF QUALITY LISTINGS!

1989 Cape George 36, comprehensive retrofit at the builder’s yard. $79,000

1976 Fisher 37, well founded pilothouse motorsailer. $84,000

Check our website for more sail & power listings. If we don’t have your perfect Pacific NW boat, we’ll help you find it!

1986 Angel Royal 50, very well equipped 3 cabin, 3 head boat. $175,000

1991 Bristol Nor'sea 27 w/trailer, fully equipped for going offshore or doing the Loop! $89,900

1982 Davidson 51, beautiful, fully equipped and ready for her next adventure. $195,000

2011 Beneteau Oceanus 31, very well equipped and clean. $74,950

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360.733.6636 www.bellhaven.net pg 178 Bellhaven Yachts.indd 1

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11/4/18 10:18 AM

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11/1/18 3:52 PM

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1983 Mikado Custom 56’ Titusville, FL $299,900

“When we decided to retire from boating there was no doubt we would contact Whiteaker Yacht Sales. Fifteen years earlier Ed sold us our new Island Packet 380. It was the professional integrity, knowledge of the high caliber of the Packet and the team work Ed and Debbie showed during that process that brought us back to them. Bob and Valen Mayland Our boat sold quickly and the process was so seamless. Their entire staff is to be commended. We highly recommend Whiteaker Yacht Sales.”

1997 Island Packet 45

2002 Island Packet 380

2006 Jeanneau Odyssey 45’

1995 Fountaine Pajot 38’

2004 Island Packet 370

1994 Island Packet 40

2004 Island Packet 370

1992 Island Packet 44

1994 Island Packet 40

2001 Island Packet 380

1999 Island Packet 380

1996 Island Packet 40

1999 Island Packet 380

1995 Island Packet 37

2004 CAL Custom 50’ Palmetto, FL $139,900

Punta Gorda, FL $134,900

1996 Island Packet 37

2005 Hunter Deck Salon 41’

2003 Hunter Deck Salon 42’

1994 Tartan 3500

1988 Island Packet 38

1987 Tayana Vancouver 42’ St. Petersburg, FL 87,500

Punta Gorda, FL $79,900

1987 Brewer 12.8 42’

1999 Catalina MkII 36’

1991 Catalina MkI 42’

1994 Island Packet 29

enroute to FL $249,000

Daytona, FL $199,900

Palmetto, FL $169,900

Punta Gorda, FL $139,900

Palmetto, FL $119,900

2004 Catalina MkII 34’ Palmetto, FL $79,000

Naples, FL $228,500

Punta Gorda, FL $197,000

Palmetto, FL $166,000

Gulfport, FL 99,000

Port Charlotte, FL 69,500

Sarasota, FL $205,000

Palmetto, FL $194,900

Cape Coral, FL $165,900

Palmetto, FL $89,980

Punta Gorda, FL $68,000

Punta Gorda, FL $184,900

Palmetto, FL $164,900

Brunswick, GA $128,900

Palmetto, FL $65,000

Preferred Yachts – Exceptional Service – www.WhiteakerYachtSales.com

Southern Tampa Bay - Palmetto & Osprey, FL

pg 183 Whitaker Yachts.indd 1

Local: 941.776.0616

Palmetto, FL $179,500

Palmetto, FL $162,900

1989 Brewer 44’

Melbourne, FL $122,900

2002 Catalina 36’

Englewood, FL $62,900

Toll Free: 888.717.SEAS

11/1/18 4:42 PM

QUALITY CRUISING, REAL COMMUNITY You’re not just buying a boat, you’re joining our family.

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184 Cruising Outpost

pg 184 Ranger & Proteus.indd 1

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Cruising Outpost 187

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pg 186-191 Bosun's Bag - editedbySue.indd 4

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pg 186-191 Bosun's Bag - editedbySue.indd 5

Cruising Outpost 189

11/5/18 3:59 PM

The Bosun’s Bag Hard-to-Find “Stuff” for the Cruiser

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pg 186-191 Bosun's Bag - editedbySue.indd 6

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pg 186-191 Bosun's Bag - editedbySue.indd 7

Single-masted sailing ships Type of propeller Triangular sail Christmas carol They are placed under the Christmas tree Letters after guitar and violin Cape ___, Mass. They ebb and ﬂow Seasoned sailor Sharp taste Nautical quarters Princess at the top of tree? Old poem “__ I ruled the world.....” song Playful sea creatures Where the wise men came from Seaside ponds Slide on the ice Sail supports “Jingle ___”

1 2 3 4 6 7 9 12 13 14 18 19 20 21 22 23 26 29 30 31 32

Reindeer boss Atlantic is one Night gear, for short Eggnog sample, e.g. Sets sail, 2 words White-tailed sea bird Upper deck for the captain Nautical heading, abbr. Waves generate these droplets Upright beams or posts on a ship Fashionable Double outriggers Musical scale note Fish ‘n’ Chips ﬁsh Turmoil Small whales “Beauty ___ witch” (Shakespeare)–2 words Noble, at Christmas Flee quickly Underwater vessel Sun in Belize

Down

Wanna Cheat? The answer to this are on page 189

The story of how the Sturgis Motorcycle Classic became an outlaw event in 1973! If you are offended by sex, drugs and rock & roll, DO NOT order this book! (And you have my sincerest condolences!) lol. His funniest book EVER! Illustrated by Rich “Magic” Marker

Across

1 5 8 10 11 15 16 17 19 20 21 24 25 26 27 28 30 32 33 34

Cruising Outpost 191

11/5/18 4:00 PM

In th

there isis issue less tha n

38.8%

Cruising Outpost

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L i s t o f A d ve r t i s e r s

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Here you will find some of the smartest companies in the marine industry. There are others, but they just haven’t found us yet. Give ‘em time! Lee Chesneau Weather 133 Lighthouse Windlass 114 Little Yacht Sales Lagoon 185 Little Yacht Sales 179 M&B Canvas Ship Canvas 105 25 Mack Sails Mainsheet 135 133 Martek Davits Massey Yachts 176 Max 1 Glue 135 22 Mazu Miami Boat Show 157 Mystic Knotwork 119 New England Rope 115 NFM New Found Metals 104 Next Gen 135 NMMA Advertorial 161 NV Charts 103 OCENS 111 Offshore Sailing School 28-29 Outbound Yachts 10-11 Outpost Xmas Ad 167 Pacific NW Boater 114 & 165 Pacific Sail Expo 159 Passport Yachts 6-7 Polyplanar 109 Port Ludlow Marina 113 Proteus Charters 184 Pure Water by Forespar 105 57 Pusser’s PYI 125 Pyrate Radio 131 Rainman 30 Ranger Tug 184 Rocna Anchors 121 Royal Cape Catamarans 83 S&J Yachts 174-175 SailCare 123 Sailrite 196 Sailtime 180 San Juan Sailing 113 SeaFrost 98 SeaTech Systems 141 Shade Tree Fabric Shelters 121 177 South Coast Yachts Sunsail 18-19 Tee Tree Power by Forespar 111 Tradewinds Radio 141 Two Can Sail 139 Whiteacker Yachts 183 Xmas Gift Ads 42-45

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178 27 181 170-171 172-173 9 20 2-3 182 179 185 176 10-11 6-7 184 184 83 174-175 180 177 183

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Bellhaven Yacht Sales Bircher Cork Mortar Boye Knives Cruise RO Watermakers CruisingConcepts.com Davis Instruments Dellaposta DockTails Fatty Knees Forget About It Gig Harbor Boat Works Hart Sytems Hydrovane International Marine Inc. Keylime Sailing Club Kiss-Radio Tek M&B ShipCanvas Magica Rust Remover Manu Kea Inc Masthead Enterprises Matthew Turner Tallship MAX 1 Glue No Wear Guard Ocean Medix Offshore Passage Opportunities Outland Hatch Covers ReplacementBoatParts.com Sailmakers Supply Sailor Soap by Gabriel Skincare SeaWaterPro.com Seaworthy Goods

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154 157 161 159

Christmas Gift Guide

Annapolis Hybrid Aumaris Jewelry Bircher Cork Mortar Boye Knives Buldano Turkish Towels C Cushions Cape Hatteras Cape Horn US Celestaire Cruising Solutions David Virtue Jewelry Davis Instrument Edson EP Carry Go-Sun Ham Ferris Kanberra M&B Ship Canvas Manu Kea Martec Davits Max 1 Glue Maximum Inc Morsel Munk Mystic Stainless NV Charts Pacific NW Boater PureShower by Forespar PureWater by Forespar Sail Care Sailor Soap Sailrite SeaTech Systems Snappi (Snap-a-Lot) Tea Tree Power

Non-Marine Advertisers

None! Why would we want that? This is a boating magazine. Ya wanna see fancy watches, pick-up trucks, and high-priced cars, read the other mags!

Advertisers: You can reach the most active segment of the boating community - In print or online. Cruising Outpost - Winter - Spring - Summer - Fall Issues Next Issue: Spring 2018 - Ad Insertions by 1/14/18 - Art Due 1/21/18 - On Sale 3/3/18

www.CruisingOutpost.com

192 Cruising Outpost

pg 192 Ad List - editedbySue.indd 1

ads@CruisingOutpost.com

510-900-3616

Advertising Terminology: Field Tested = manufacturer lacks test equipment

Marine Advertisers

AB Inflatables 195 Annapolis Hybrid Marine 107 Artisan Mattress 101 ATN 117 Aumaris Jewelery 117 B&G Yacht Management 60 Back Issues & Binders 143 133 Bacon Sails Bellhaven Yacht Sales 178 Beta Marine 115 129 Beta Marine J-Prop Blue Water Sailing 50-51 49 Bob Bitchin Books Bocas Marina 104 BVI Share the Sail Ad 58-59 BVI Tourism 52 Catalina 27 Celestaire 26 Chicago Boat Show 154 Clamptite 35 CO Jackette 153 CO Product 185 CO Xmas Sub Ad 40-41 Conch Charter 181 Coppercoat 129 Corsairs 55 CS Johnson 119 Curtis Stokes Yacht Sales 170-171 Eastern Yacht Sales 172-173 33 Edson Marine El Cid Marinas 32 eMarine Systems 81 & 135 EP Carry 108 Forespar 123 Froli Sleep Systems 133 GarhauerMarine 36-37 Great Lakes Scuttlebutt 139 H&H Yachts 9 Hamilton Ferris 99 HMC-Handcraft Mattress 24 Hylas Power Yachts 20 Hylas Sailing Yachts 2-3 IMIS/Gowie 125 Indiantown Marina 109 182 Jolly Rover Kanberra Gel 23 Keenan Filters by KTI Systems 31 Key Lime Sailing Club 34 Kiwi Grip - PYI 107 L&A Store 124 L&A TV DVDs 153

#105

www.cruisingoutpost.com

11/4/18 12:41 PM

www.cruisingoutpost.com

pg 193 Mackie White.indd 1

Cruising Outpost 193

11/3/18 2:15 PM

Cruisians *

*A small, exclusive group of people who are mentally ill and feel, for some reason unbeknownst to anyone, that by getting on a small boat about the size of a jail cell and heading out into the most inhospitable place on Earth (the ocean), they will somehow enjoy themselves.

Here’s a kewl pic of Bill Gregan, Trish, and Riley the dog as they sail aboard their boat Wanderer. They are seen here as they sail through the Abacos, and enjoy the great cruising lifestyle. Okay guys, come on, this all looks too good. Can’t ya throw in a little strife? Really?

I drive way too fast to worry about cholesterol.

Lucy (Fabi) Del Rio returned to Yankton, SD after crewing on Dream Catcher to Tahiti. Lucy lives in Omaha, Nebraska working as an immigration professional, AND is mother to the present Day Captain of the Dream Catcher (Enrique Del Rio). She seems to be enjoying the lifestyle of her son. Looks like a pretty good life!

Dr. Alan Lipkin is Bob’s older brother. No, not that kind of doctor. He’s one of the science guys. It is said that between Al and Bob they know everyting. Many doubt this assumption!

194 Cruising Outpost

pg 194 Cruisians - editedbySue.indd 1

You may not know Sacha Wrunkle, but you do know his cartoons. They are in every issue of this rag! He has sailed the world for 11 years collecting ideas for cartoons. Now we get to benefit from all his “hard work.” Yeah, right! lol

This is Capt. Ken Wolfel. He is seen here on the “Bob Boat” in Tahiti, but he usually spends his time skippering his own catamaran, Sunshine, around the BVIs. Ken is very handy to have aboard, and he does know how to have a good time!! This is Dennis Mullen. He and Bitchin have a lot in common, and got to discuss it while sailing in Tahiti. They are both a couple of self-avowed pirates!

John Amico was one of the people who came to our rescue when we were first starting Cruising Outpost. He sails out of Long Beach and has been a part of our Founders Circle for over 5 years. Thanks, John! www.cruisingoutpost.com

10/30/18 10:29 AM

pg 195 AB Inflatables.indd 1

11/1/18 1:16 PM

Our “elves” are hard at work fine-tuning our powerful and portable Ultrafeed® Sewing Machines. Treat yourself to the best heavy-duty, walking foot sewing machine on the market.

Happy Holidays from our crew to yours!

Fabric

pg 196 Sailrite.indd 1

Sewing Machines

Tools

Kits

Supplies

How-to Videos

Sailrite.com

11/1/18 3:33 PM