Latitudes & Attitudes #33 Winter 2020-2021 + Boat Show Spectacular!

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Issue #33 Winter 2020

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Alekona A New Challenge

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Experience Before You Go

To Charter or Not To Charter

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A Sinking in Saba

Wicked Weather & Heaps of Fun

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Bad Day Off Georgia

Good Deeds During COVID

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Cruising the Italian Riviera

Escaping Bertha

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We Shoulda Had Breakfast

Cruising Baja West

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Character cannot be found in people during the good times. It is in dire straights that a person’s true self is revealed!

By Bob Bitchin On September 9th, a little after midnight, the California fires became personal. Jody and I, along with Swan, our friend and “Home Base” when we are on the road (or at sea), had to evacuate. We were able to gather up our office cats, Jessie and Katie, load them into the Boat Show Van, and hit the road. In the ensuing hours, the Latitudes & Attitudes offices, as well as our home for the past 10 years, were turned into a pile of ashes. Every back issue of Lats&Atts, along with every copy of every book I have written BEFORE over the past 50 years are now a pile of ash. Oddly enough, just two weeks earlier, Jody had just finished feeding the fish in the pond I’d built, while Jessie and Katie played at our feet, watching the sunset. “Ya know what,” I said to Jody, “We finally made it.” After almost 40 years living aboard, we’d found a place we felt completely at DURING home. Between two forks of the Feather River, overlooking Lake Oroville, tucked into a beautiful forest, life could not have been any better. Looking back, we lost a lot of “stuff”— much of it absolutely irreplaceable. The carved water buffalo horns we got sailing in Thailand. The conch shell we would blow when departing AFTER port, and the pewter cups given to us by the Sultan of Selangor who we “raced” across the Atlantic. (He beat us by a week!). And newer things, like my Harley-Davidson, which I’d just put new handlebars on, and all of Jody’s costume jewelry, and a few pieces of the real thing—gone overnight. But we managed to grab our computers and hard drives, and that is why you are reading this right now. Yes, we lost a lot of “stuff.” But it was just that. Stuff! That night, or actually about 3 am, we’d called a friend, and he was out of town but told us how to find the keys to his place, and we were okay. The cats were a little annoyed

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at not having 40 acres to run around on, but they’ve adapted to “apartment” living for the time being. But keep in mind, this was all in the middle of the biggest pandemic to hit in over a hundred years! With huge unemployment, as well as unprecedented hostility in politics But you know what happened the next day? We started to realize that even though we had lost “everything,” we were in better shape than most people in the world because we had the most important thing there is: Our friends. Within hours the next day, our cell phones were ringing with people from all over the world, calling to see if we were okay and offering help and support. “Freedom’s just another word for nothing left to lose,” or so sang Janis Joplin. The song was written in 1970 by Kris Kristofferson, and never were truer words spoken. (Or should I say “sung”?). What’s all this got to do with the cruising lifestyle? I think a lot. I believe we are able to adapt to losing everything because, for so many years, as we sailed this Great Big Blue Ball of Earth, we were constantly aware of how fragile life really is. So as cruisers, we cherish every minute. “Getting there is half the fun” is not exactly true. When cruising, I know the best times I had were when we’d be drifting downwind in the South Pacific or coming out of a storm into the sunlight while sailing in the Med. It didn’t matter if I was on my first boat, a little Cal 28, or my last boat, The Lost Soul, 68 feet of what I considered the best boat in the world. Not because it was big or fancy, but because it took me to places that most people only dream of visiting. Yes, we’ve lost the trappings you get used to while living “in civilization.” But a few days after, we realized it wasn’t a bad dream, but real, and we started looking forward to a whole new adventure. All of a sudden, the world opened up to us. What do we wanna do? Stay and try to rebuild, or move to God only knows where? The day after it happened, we were talking about how much we loved what we’d built, but I was starting to think that maybe this was God’s way of telling me it’s time to stop resting on my laurels and start a new adventure! When you are comfortable and warm, it’s easy to become “satisfied” with what you have. But now I was being “forced” to look for a new goal. For decades I have been preaching that the difference between an ordeal and an adventure is attitude. Suddenly, I realized I needed to take my own advice. Who’d have thought that at 76 years of age, I’d have the chance to start a new adventure! As Franklin Roosevelt once said, “A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor.” So, now our boat may be rocking and rolling, but what doesn’t kill us makes us stronger. Okay, enough platitudes, it’s time for a little bit of ATTITUDE! Let’s go sailing! W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M

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ALEKONA By Jessie Zevalkink-Yeates

I’m shaking the dust off my fingertips. I have not written anything but seemingly endless strands of emails and text messages for the whole of 2020. A coherent story, on the other hand, is a new challenge. Nothing about this year has been coherent. A year in which connection and disconnect have been directly congruent. The desperate need for human connection up against a government-mandated human disconnect, has reset and redefined the word “boundaries” for each of us. These newly set boundaries either held us tightly within the same bulkhead or separated us by oceans. Those of us who have had the privilege of living aboard our boats with a friend, spouse, or an entire family, have already passed tests in which many otherwise strong households began to slip up. Those of us who have already experienced “lockdown” in the middle of an ocean and incessant uncertainty, may have fared better this year than the average land dweller, for this roaring and unstable front is not unfamiliar, and it is only a matter of perspective that can make or break how we experience it. There is a word I recently learned that embodies the trait of many sailors, and it is a trait I myself discovered as w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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a result of sailing without ever knowing how to describe it: counterphobia, a series of choices one makes, or a preference for that matter, to seek out a situation that is feared in order to overcome that fear. To put it simply, it is one who seeks their source of fear and follows it instead of avoiding it at all costs. A well-known Belgian psychologist, Esther Perel, describes her own experience, “I act as if I’m fearless, but actually I am petrified with dread.” She discusses her outward attitude which is received as quite brave or shocking to the public, her ability to confidently do things with the seeming belief that nothing bad is going to happen while at the same time strongly knowing that something bad is going to happen. The point being, whatever the bad thing is that’s going to happen, it’s not going to stop her from doing it in the first place. Esther admits wholeheartedly how stress-inducing the choices she makes are, but she does

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and will continue to make them anyway. Externally fearless, internally petrified. It is not naivety but quite the opposite; it’s an awareness or confrontation of an anxiety-producing situation in order to overcompensate for its debilitating elements of fear. This attitude is something I believe many sailors share as their defense mechanism, and you need at least a slice of it to leave the dock. I grew stuck on this word because I think that if there is a year in our lifetime to act with or to attempt counterphobia, it is the year of 2020. I cannot list the individual reasons we all have had to feel fear this year, to each on their own. But as I sift through the potential reasons, I can’t see why each one could not be an opportunity. I unapologetically remember having a thought after crossing the Atlantic for the second time. “I am so grateful I did this, but I don’t ever need to cross an ocean again.” I never wanted to stop sailing for good, or even for temporary. Still, I continued to recognize traits I didn’t like about myself rise to the surface while isolated, which ultimately led me to believe that I never cared to do long ocean passages again. I became jaded to my surroundings. I had unrealistic expectations of my husband. I became tormented by what I didn’t have, not with what I did. I became scared. I didn’t

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want that much time to sit with myself, and I learned that the externally gung-ho “Jessiebrave” was unattainable internally. My husband was the only person to see me crack, and he watched me go from fiery voyager to a fear-ridden and pessimistic “captain” on our passage from the Canary Islands to Antigua. It wasn’t even six months after completing our North Atlantic circuit and returning the boat to her rightful owner (my dad) that we were very earnestly discussing where we would sail next and in what kind of vessel. I am a woman of retrospect; all I needed was time to understand that yes, I did want to cross an ocean again, and the fear of the person I did not love out there became the next thing I would like to address—a counterphobic attitude at its finest. I became drawn to, maybe even obsessed with, the idea that if I just tried it again, I could handle the isolation with grace, the monotony with peace, and the sails with confidence. The neurotic and global search for our next floating home that would carry us across many oceans began. In December of 2019, northern Michigan winter settled in early. We sat at our desks on opposite sides of our lofted apartment, sending each other sailboat listings back and forth across the room. We were looking to tick the following w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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boxes: Iceberg worthy. Heavy weather built. Aluminum or steel. Between 35-45 feet. 1970s-1990s. Small enough we could afford to maintain it, big enough we could live on it fulltime and house crew. We would refuse to spend over $50k, everything we had, and if it were the right boat, we would just have to lay-low until we had the means to get her ocean ready. I can’t say the options were endless. We mostly found ourselves completely turned off by the aesthetics of metal boats and religiously awed over some heavily fiberglassed classics with long overhangs and too much teak. Our dream, though, is to cruise higher latitudes. After sailing iceberg alley around Newfoundland, we were so petrified in our fiberglass classic with no radar that we were hooked. Our draw to return to icy waters thereafter, counterphobic. Alekona is a midnight blue, steel-hulled ketch, with a gorgeous clipper bow and in-boom furling that was ambiguously listed on www.sailboatlistings.com. She was of those listings that raise far more questions than it does answer them. It was sexy for steel, and if it wasn’t listed as steel, we would have guessed it was plastic. The interior was reminiscent of a classic treehouse, with intricate and inviting woodwork. The generous pilot house had “home” and “happy hour” written all over it. It was a wee bit too big w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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and a wee bit too expensive, but that did not stop me from sending out an inquiry. Built in New Zealand, 1983, Alekona is an Endurance 44, designed by Peter Ibold. With her noble bowsprit overhang, she is 48 feet LOA, 14 wide in the hips, and 7 deep with a full keel. The tight, deep cockpit is a compromise for its glorious pilothouse with a wraparound settee and nav station. She was donated to a non-profit in Sausalito, “Call of the Sea,” and listed for $10k over our max budget. The email thread lasted for weeks as we tried to get enough answers to determine if we were buying plane tickets to San Francisco to see this thing flesh and blood. Amidst our communication, we learn that the CEO and Founder of Call of the Sea, Allan Olson, was the one who originally taught our legend, Bob Bitchin, how to sail. I felt safe in the closeness of who we were potentially about to sink our entire life savings into. Counterphobia sunk in again, and all the things that raised my blood pressure about this boat also drew me in with a magnetic force. I wanted it. The financial risk terrified me. The size of the boat terrified me. The maintenance of the boat terrified me. The complexity of the boat terrified me. We considered every aspect of it as our first home. I could see us

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sailing in the Southern Ocean, dodging ice in the Northwest passage, living aboard on the coast of Cornwall and staying a while. We sent Luke with a reliable boat surveyor friend and a blank check out West to tear the boat apart, write up a report, determine its value, and make a fast decision. By the end of the weekend, Luke sat in the broker’s office after having agreed on our max 50k budget, which was $10k less than its listing price, and 25k less than its surveyed value. He began the check with a number “4” in spite of their agreement and gave the broker a cheeky smile. We bought Alekona the first week of January for $49k, and I started looking for anything around our home we could sell… In February, we spent the month aboard Alekona in the Bay Area. Getting acquainted with her luxuries, complexities, peculiar nooks, and puzzle-piece floorboards. Familiarizing ourselves with notes of water lapping against a steel hull and the fragrance of New Zealand totara. Five years ago, sifting through her 68-page survey would have been enough for me to walk the other way. But today, I have a better understanding of what’s urgent and what can wait. I can compartmentalize the things that need fixing in a healthy way and know full well there will never not be a list, until the end of time. Proud owners of a beautiful ketch, we

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practiced docking, anchoring, reversing, and sailed the bay. Over a long weekend, we had seven people aboard, each with a place to lay their head. Chaotic, yes, but possible. She sailed beautifully under the Golden Gate and out into the Pacific, both of us impressed how quickly an 18-ton boat could sail under relatively light wind. Don’t be mistaken—it wasn’t all tequila and sunrises. We got caught in the wicked currents that wrap around Angel Island and had a near docking disaster, eventually running aground. We ran out of wind and ran out of fuel on our way into the Sausalito Channel because I thought I had switched the fuel tanks when I had actually turned off the fuel return valve. We discovered the broken greywater sump pump, the inoperative diesel-driven refrigeration and freezer, a fried battery charger, 4 of 6 nearly dead batteries, and the traveler split from the plywood cabin top in under duress. But she was a dry boat, with impeccable rigging (minus the traveler). Our reality was that we could not afford to fix anything at the time. We needed to haul her out of the water in the cheapest storage yard we could find and go home. She dieselled up the Napa River, sprightly at 6 knots. The Napa Valley Marina fit the bill for dry storage: $250 a month for a 48-foot boat, a fraction of the price in the Bay w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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Area. And if we were being honest with ourselves, we didn’t know when we would be back. A hydraulic low-loader lifted Alekona from the brackish river, and I just couldn’t believe how massive she was. What had we done? The simplistic sailing boats I had gained all my experience on were a thing of the past. This vessel out of water forced upon me a few deep breaths. “I’m too young for this,” I thought. This is like a retired woman’s dream boat. Someone in a completely different tax bracket, with a fat 401k. Luke and I had just turned into those people who… have a super fancy car but can’t pay their bills. Back at home in northern Michigan, we had a bright season ahead. Some very exciting travel and work opportunities were to bring us to Grenada, the UK, Italy, and Croatia. We predicted it would take us six months to make back what we spent, and we would be right back where we started financially. No one will ever forget March 15. Like the millions of others who woke up jobless, Luke and I become two unemployed, completely incomeless dopes for the next three months. One month into lockdown, I started to lose my mind, as I imagine many of you did as well. It derived from the difference between choosing to not work for three months, which I do annually, and being told I can’t. The difference between prepping financially to take w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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time off and having the entire system close its doors on you. The difference between being protected as an employer of a company and being self-employed. The difference between essential and non-essential. Masks and no masks. Boundaries and closed borders. It got to me. On April 15, I let my husband shave my head. We shaved each other’s heads, in fact. I drank a bottle of wine as he took the clippers to my skull, and the long hair I’d had my entire life fell to the ground. I was desperate to feel something. Anything really. For my lack of enthusiasm and appreciation for life in the thick of lockdown lead me to do something dramatic to wake me the $#%& up. I needed to find a source of energy—and trust me, nothing is more invigorating than shaving your head as a woman. The things that typically fuel me—my work, family, friends, and travels—did not exist, and I became deeply reliant on my husband as I had a year earlier while crossing the ocean. I began to recognize a pattern of behavior that occurs when these sources of energy are removed. Two weeks later, we found out I was pregnant, and a real identity crisis set in. We have no income. I don’t know if my job will exist this year (wedding photographer). I am bald. I am pregnant. Two weeks after that, I woke up and told

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Luke, “We need to go to the boat. Now.” For the boat, in that moment of our lives, became the only thing we had that was truly ours, the only thing we had control over, and the only thing that may be able to distract us from the deeply seated fears and uncertainties of pregnancies during pandemics. The car was loaded with tools and everything we could possibly need to get to work on the boat without having to buy it out west. The cat, “Tato,” was packed in last; she meowed for three days across I-80, while I fought the lovely side effects and annoyances of being two months pregnant… incredibly emotional, tired, scared, and fussy. The time that opened up for us to go out to the boat was such a gift. I tried my very best to view this time as currency and to forget about the money we were supposed to be otherwise making. We needed to feel progress; working towards our dream was the only way to do that. We just had to make several controversial decisions to get there. For the whole of June, we put our heads down and ground away. I did a lot of things a pregnant woman would be advised not to do, but it felt so much better to do than not to do. For weeks I couldn’t make it through a day without an afternoon nap and woke up feeling like I had an IV of cheap vodka. Yet, there was progress being made. In the far back corner of the boatyard, we did not have internet. There was no drinking water, no laundry, a long walk to the toilets and the shower, and a 20-minute drive from town. One could

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consider it a nightmare for a first trimester, but it saved me. I stopped having hives over finances and just accepted where we were. I stopped living in fear of COVID and just accepted its abrupt changes. I stopped being terrified of the world I was bringing a baby into and started focusing on the home and life we were creating for him or her. I stopped paying attention to the media and started paying attention to my body. I stopped looking at Luke as only my partner but as a father. Our roles on the planet began to change, and nothing felt more important than working with and towards those changes. The dust is off, and I can’t promise this was a coherent story. But I do know one thing very well: The thing that scared me most this year also saved me. It was the damn boat. It was the choice that scared me the most, and the choice that ultimately got me through the anxieties of the other life-altering events. There is never a convenient time to get pregnant, and there is certainly never a good time for a pandemic to flood the globe. There are always reasons to wait to buy a boat or to think longer about shaving your head. At the end of the day, when we feel completely out of control, we still have full control over our attitude and perspective for when the unimaginable happens. Our baby will arrive on Christmas. You know what terrifies me? Sailing with our first newborn. As soon as we are fit and able, we will move onto Alekona and sail to Mexico. And the story continues. w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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Lats&Atts Scuttlebutt If It’s Gonna Happen, It’s Gonna Happen Out There

Issue #33

All the News That Fits Between the Sheets

Not All Futuristic Designs Are Catamarans

Winter 2020

Yacht Iolaire Sinks Off Ibiza

Ten years after Don Street sold Iolaire, the boat sank.. It happened on Don’s 89th birthday when Iolaire was Check out Igor Lobanov’s idea, which he calls The underway in heavy weather. She was sailing downwind in Phoenicia. He says the concept came from looking at the Spanish Balearic islands along the northeast coast of Ibiza. It looks like an inadvertent jibe caused her to head ancient maritime civilizations and their designs. We can’t inshore, pile up on the rocks, and sink, ending her 114-year ever recall seeing ancient designs like this! career. Don is well known for writing hundreds of articles and dozens of books about the sailing and cruising lifestyle. Everyone onboard was okay after the accident.

Tyson Trouble Walking?

Rumor has it that Mike Tyson spent so much time on his 150’ yacht that when he hit land in the Ukraine he had trouble walking. Okay now, ‘fess up, how many of you have found yourself a little wobbly after a long cruise?

Nautical Trivia What does the nautical J “Juliet” flag signify when being flown on a vessel?

Wanna Cheat? Answer is on page 36.

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It Was A Hot Time At Latitudes & Attitudes Offices! On September 9, 2020, at about 1 a.m., the staff at Lats&Atts Galactic Headquarters had to abandon their offices (and home) because of the Bear Fire, which was part of the North Complex Fire in California. In all, that fire burned over 318,000 acres. Oddly enough, the bears on the property survived! The 7’ bronze grizzly (Mad Max) that guarded the front door, a concrete mother bear and her three cubs that adorned a fountain the deer drank from, and a 24” redwood bear holding a “Welcome” sign all made it. Besides the home and offices burning, the cabin that Swan Saunders lived in burned down as well. She has been the Bitchins’ friend and “Home Base” whenever they were on the road working boat shows or on Share The sails. Every copy of every book written by Bob Bitchin burned, as well as most of our “logo wear,” and both the East and West Coast Boat Show booths. Everything was a total loss. They made it out with the two office cats, Jessie & Katie, with basically the clothes on their backs. You can see the fire captured on the surveillance camera’s by searching Google for “Bear Fire Security Cam Video of Bitchin’ Ranch”

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Not to Worry, Lats & Atts Goes On!

As you can tell from this issue, the magazine will go on. Bob and Jody are planning on rebuilding, and in the meantime will be working “remotely” as are most folks these days, from a friend’s place about 20 miles down the road. In all, over 4,000,000 acres burned this year in California alone. This year, nationally, over 45,939 fires burned about 8.3 million acres. Twice what burned in 2019. Much of the Lats&Atts crew live aboard, and all are sailors, so we have kinda “moved” our base of operations around for the time being. But have no fear, Latitudes & Attitudes will continue poisoning minds and getting people out to sea. And as soon as we can, we will see you at the next boat show, with a brand new booth!

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Old Trapper in Bad Weather?

The folks at Old Trapper were smart enough to send a sample pack of their Deli Style Beef Sticks, suggesting that they are good for a quick protein pick-me-up. I guess they thought we’d be silly enough to give them some free publicity. Well, they were right. In fact, since the staff devoured the first bag, we now keep the stuff on our desks! Okay, it worked... ya got your free plug. Now, how about some more samples...? LOL

World’s Largest...

...And the most fun show on Earth! boot Düsseldorf will once again be held in Düsseldorf, Germany. The world’s largest boat show, it is also one of the most fun. Boaters from all over the world collect to see what’s new for the boating world, and while there the worries of the world seem to slip away, and scenes like this abound. This year’s event will take place from January 23-31, 2021, and even with “Social Distancing” it should be a great show. Held at the Messe Center, it has over 10 miles of aisles and over twomillion square feet of display areas. If it floats or is used on the water (or under it), you’ll see it there.

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81-Year-Old Makes It to Australia

Jon Sanders faced the worst ocean conditions he’s experienced in decades, but they didn’t stop him from reaching his destination on his record 11th solo circumnavigation of the world. He docked in the Queensland town of Bundaberg after beating three huge storm systems on the latest leg of his journey. He said he saw some of the worst conditions he had seen, with winds exceeding 120 km-per-hour, causing damage to key navigation equipment. The storms forced him to sail with a bare mast and drag a tire as a sea-anchor to keep the boat facing into the wind and waves. His boat, Perie Banou II, took on so much water that the engine was flooded and couldn’t generate backup power or be used in an emergency. He completed the voyage just like Captain Cook, using only a paper chart and sextant for navigation. Sanders has sailed more than 40,000 kilometers since leaving Fremantle almost a year ago on his journey to raise awareness of plastic pollution - one of the greatest health and environmental threats facing our planet.

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10/30/20 9:14 AM


NMMA Boat Show News!

A total of nine shows — including the Miami International Boat Show — will be outright canceled, with others moving forward or postponed to a later date. The NMMA made the decision after “following a thorough market-by-market analysis regarding the feasibility of producing safe and successful winter events,” they said in a statement. Canceled shows include: • Progressive Insurance Atlanta Boat Show • Progressive Insurance Baltimore Boat Show • Progressive Insurance Chicago Boat Show • Progressive Insurance Louisville Boat, RV & Sportshow • Progressive Insurance Miami International Boat Show • Progressive Insurance Minneapolis Boat Show • Progressive Insurance Nashville Boat Show • Progressive Insurance New York Boat Show • Progressive Insurance St. Louis Boat & Sportshow The following will proceed as scheduled: • Progressive Insurance Atlantic City Boat Show – Feb. 24-28. - This show may be delayed to early April. • Progressive Insurance Northwest Sportshow – March 25-28. • The Progressive Insurance New England Boat Show will be - Pushed back; TBD. The NMMA also announced that they had transferred ownership of several events to Sportshows LLC — including Kansas City Boat & Sportshow, Chicagoland Fishing, Travel & Outdoor Expo, World Fishing & Outdoor Expo, and Saltwater Fishing Expo. With a significant roster of its shows canceled and others in jeopardy of being held, NMMA says that its financial position remains strong and they intend to continue to hold large-scale boat show into the future.

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Are Books a Thing of the Past, Too?

Vinyl record sales have outpaced CD sales in the United States for the first time since the 1980s, accounting for $232.1 million of music sales in the first half of the year, compared to CDs with only $129.9 million dollars. With a new book being added every 5 minutes to Amazon, they now have over 3,400,000 titles, and growing. A recent discussion among well-known authors was noticing the same trend with books. Electronic books are all well and good, but they are “fleeting” and can’t be added to a library shelf. And there are a lot of library shelves out there!

After the “Burning of the Books”

Every book written by our publisher, Bob Bitchin, went up in flames when the offices burnt down last month. Instead of reprinting them all at once, we’ve decided to bring out a new “old” title with each issue of Latitudes & Attitudes.

Pre-Order Now for Xmas

We will be starting with the most recent best-seller, “Biker To Sailor,” which will be the first one we reprint, in Hard cover, as a collector’s edition, and each book will be signed by the author. Order your copy now, as we are trying to get them out before Christmas. This will be the second printing of this very popular book about how our publisher went from outlaw to sailor. To order just go to: bobbitchin.com Each copy will be a signed collectable!

Share The Sail Update

As we all know, the COVID-19 pandemic has messed up a lot of plans. The Lats&Atts crew were all set to sail in Croatia with a group of our readers last May, and we had to set it off until May of 2021. Now we are hoping we will be able to do that, with America having some of the worst COVID numbers in the world, and travel being restricted. We are still hoping that will happen. We also had an “Around the Horn” adventure cruise set for March, but now Tierra del Fuego has been put off limits, so we are hoping to do it in 2022, as March is the best time for that event. But, we are determined to restart our Share The Sail events as soon as the world gets a vaccine and it is safe. Until then, well, I guess you’ll just have to read about it here! w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Relatively Speaking?

An old sea captain was sitting on a bench near the wharf when a young man walked up and sat down. The young man had spiked hair and each spike was a different colour … green, red, orange, blue, and yellow. After a while the young man noticed that the captain was staring at him.“What’s the matter, old timer, never done anything wild in your life?” The old captain replied, “Got drunk once and married a parrot. I was just wondering if you were my son!”

It’s Good To Be The King

MarineTraffic boat-location data of 514 U.S.-flagged yachts at least 90 feet long showed they sailed farther than the year before in the first three months of the year. This is according to an NBC News for the billionaire class. That meant sailing around the South Pacific with like-minded superyacht owners and ditching the perils of sheltering at home. Gee, just like us mere mortals!

Nautical Trivia The J (Juliet) flag indicates “I am on fire and have dangerous cargo on board: keep well clear of me.” We thought that would be a fitting trivia piece for this particular issue!

Question on page 26

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ACTIVE PIRACY REPORT from the International Commercial Crime Services: A Narrative of the Most Recent Attacks Pirates are kidnapping more seafarers off West Africa - 28 October 2020: The International Maritime Bureau figures show a rise in piracy and armed robbery on the world’s seas in the first nine months of 2020, with a 40% increase in the number of kidnappings reported in the Gulf of Guinea, compared with the same period in 2019. Pirates armed with guns and knives are abducting bigger groups of seafarers at further distances off the West African coast. Somali piracy: Last three hostages freed but threat still exists - 21 September 2020: Somalia pirates have freed the last three of the 3,639 hostages held in captivity over the past five years. Crew kidnappings surge in seas off West Africa,14 July, 2020: Violent attacks against ships and their crews have risen in 2020, with 77 seafarers taken hostage or kidnapped for ransom since January, reveals the ICC International Maritime Bureau’s (IMB) latest piracy report. The Gulf of Guinea off West Africa is increasingly dangerous for commercial shipping, accounting for just over 90% of maritime kidnappings worldwide. Meanwhile ship hijackings are at their lowest since 1993. Seafarers face continuing threats from pirates. The ICC International Maritime Bureau (IMB), reporting 47 attacks in the first three months of 2020, up from 38 in the same period last year. Pirates boarded 37 ships in the first quarter of 2020. The Gulf of Guinea: The world’s piracy hotspot. Seventeen crew were kidnapped in three incidents in these waters, at distances of between 45 and 75 nautical miles from the coast.

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ANOTHER WAY Metanoia By Tania Aebi

In the grainy black and white world of 1966 and childhood stories, my father and Christian immigrated to the United States on the Queen Mary. They passed the Statue of Liberty, landed in New York City and life in a new country. Christian was Slovenian, of the country formerly known as Yugoslavia, and had survived World War ll, saw his father shot as a dissident, spent time in a concentration camp with his mother, and failed escaping across the iron curtain twice before succeeding the third time. He was 18 years old when he left his tattered country behind for good, wandered around Italy and settled in Paris, where he met my father. My father was Swiss-German and had already hitchhiked across Europe, the Middle, Near and Far East to Japan by the time he moved to Paris. In their mid-twenties, both were products of a generation that pursued amazing stories lived just for the sake of being alive, not for resumes or blogs. In Paris, they were part of the Montmartre street scene, where artists from all over brought their easels to sidewalks to paint and sketch for rent and wine money. When this French adventure had run its course, they booked passage on the Queen Mary and into the next fifty-four years. And counting. My father got married, had four children and divorced, while Christian remained a footloose bachelor artist, always an uncle-type part of our lives with a house on the Jersey Shore. On annual summer visits with our VW camper, we’d get sunburned, motorboat around, play in the ocean. His home always smelled like good cooking and oil paints. When I was about twelve—as deduced from the poncho in pictures that had turned to color by then, and right before I became an adolescent who wouldn’t be caught dead in a poncho—Christian bought the bare hull of a Westsail 32. I’ve written about him before because this inspired my forty-year-long relationship with sailboats. As the story goes, my father read sailing magazines on Christian’s toilet, which led to his sailboat purchase and the trans-Atlantic voyage that seeded the writing and seafaring part of my life. Meanwhile, as Christian maintained friendships with my ambitious elders, he quietly studied volumes of boat carpentry, mechanics, and electrics to give shape to his boat. As the characters of this older generation chased relevance, he practiced the work of perfect joints, inlaid fittings, dovetailing, and lovingly-shaped

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handholds and shelves. Every nook and cranny was considered, planned, and executed as he dreamed of sepia-toned anchorages. In the whirlwind of my own far flung sailing pursuits, Christian was an oasis of thoughtfulness. To fund all this, Christian dutifully cranked out artwork, going from impressionistic scenes to total abstraction, and sold them on my father’s Manhattan sidewalk. When he fathered a daughter, the boat had to share eighteen years of devotion. His time was split between making sure the daughter had enough food and violin lessons while living in cheap summer homes in the winter, where she could have her own bedrooms and real bathrooms, and summers on the boat, sometimes even dockside. Otherwise, the fiberglass girl spent most of those eighteen years in a cradle, on the hard. It takes time to build a boat, especially when life is about painting and hustling enough work for two to survive, pay bills, buy some teak. A couple decades ago, my father donated some money to the boat finishing cause. After days of sitting with his artwork on the sidewalk below my father’s home, I’d listen to Christian describe the latest challenge of making a curved drawer or shelf, how to swage a turnbuckle. My father would lift another wine glass to their dream of sailing together to the Mediterranean of their youth, that retro place of snug uncrowded harbors where boats could easily anchor for rowing ashore, walking beaches, and sitting in little cafes full of ladies who would love them. I’d point out these places don’t exist anymore, why wouldn’t the seventy-somethings first shoot for something easier, like a maiden voyage sail up to Maine, see how that goes? With that, Christian and I would talk about where to mount a radar, before he’d remember another project that needed to happen first, and the years continued skipping by. I’d occasionally go down to the Jersey Shore, help with tasks like painting and securing the fuel tanks, or installing lazy jacks, or wiring the mast. Christian and I spent hours more on the phone, discussing decisions, from what kind of engine to buy to what head system to install. When around for any of this, my father would ask if anyone wanted some brandy. These days, my father doesn’t remember much of anything, the only lady left is me, the caregiver who gets to be called a nag (who secretly waters down w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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In May of 1985, an 18-year-old Tania set sail from Manhattan, New York, and became the first American woman and youngest sailor at the time to circumnavigate the globe. Upon her return to Manhattan in November 1987, Tania had visited 23 countries and sailed 27,000 miles. Nowadays, Tania runs charters and delivers boats all over the world when she’s not at home, raising her sons, working on her next book, or battling snow in the winter and weeds in the summer. his brandy to keep him hydrated), while Christian has a wealth of memories with this boat he is still working on. Where my father’s entire life has been spent racing from one accomplishment to another and amassing bragging rights for stories that have disappeared into the fogbanks of his mind, Christian has shown me what it means to not be measured by financial or experiential success, but to live calmly and deliberately with singularity of purpose. Building Metanoia, or just “The Boat,” has been the textbook example of someone choosing the voyage over destination, where he’s forgotten more about boat craft than I will ever learn. Finally stable for the past twenty years, or so, which gains importance in your sixties and seventies, Christian has had an apartment in the marina, about 150 feet away from Metanoia. Here, he continued to assemble parts in the open kitchen living area, walk down the flight of stairs, across the marina, up the ladder into Metanoia’s cockpit. Up and down, back and forth. The first time I ever boarded Metanoia, as an earnest tween in earth shoes and that hideous poncho, I couldn’t imagine what that hunk of fiberglass would turn into. On my latest visit, I tried very hard to not lose any gray hair to the dry bilge while sleeping on one of the cozy bunks after a day of helping out, with many of the sailing books we’ve talked about neatly arranged on the shelves at my feet. This trip to the Jersey Shore was with his daughter. She is in her mid-thirties now, I am an aunt-type in her life, we are close. Between boat parts and manuals, we watched him cook us meals, and consulted the internet for how to use a multimeter. This time, Christian has asked if I could use his notes to neatly label the wiring behind his breaker panel. My eyesight and handwriting are still okay. There’s a lot of electric testing to do, identifying circuits. While we do that, his daughter tapes around all the perfectly varnished cabin top woodwork w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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and portholes. At 82, Christian’s hands are shaky, and it’s time to paint the cabin ceiling. White? Slightly off-white? With some gray? Some yellow? Another big decision we get to talk about. We go with the whitest white. As we do every time I visit, we check out everything, remove the slats and see the perfect engine, the plumbing, the sea cocks. I vacuum some dirt, reach in tight places to extract bits and bobs while I can still contort. The sink will go in as soon as he builds out some corners in the hole to set it properly. He shows me what he’s doing in his soft, melodious voice. We joke and laugh ironically over old stories of mistakes made, lessons learned. Boats provide plenty of those. His daughter and I sleep on Metanoia together. On the hard. The treehouse. It’s an organized and uncluttered workspace. She tells me I snore, I imagine her being a bratty teenager in her old bed, several feet across the cabin from me. So many years pass— houses, dreams, cars, boats, kids, resentments, joys, hurts, storms and calms all come and go, come and go. But, this boat has been a constant, the beginnings feeling ever more poignantly loved and dear as we draw ever more closer to the end.

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CHARTEE RING: CHART

A Taste of the Cruising Lifestyle By Ray Bryan

Boats come in all shapes and sizes—and a wide range of prices—as do boat charters. Whether sail or power, catamaran or monohull, bare or crewed, a charter boat makes for a fantastic vacation experience. If you have a craving for the cruising lifestyle, a charter boat vacation is a fun, economical way to satisfy it. I highly recommend sampling the lifestyle before you make the leap. 42 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 42-47 Taste of the Cruising Lifestyle - MKC.indd 2

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In today’s charter market, most people are simply looking for a fun week of vacation on the water in a great location. A week of partying in the BVI on a big catamaran with multiple families aboard, plus a captain and a cook, might be just what you need. Or, maybe you want a peaceful week for two in idyllic waters exploring new places. Either way, you have many options through the major charter companies, managed fleets, and private owner-operators. There’s also the option of using a broker to find the best boat for your group or shopping directly with the companies. While these kinds of charters may give you a taste of the cruising lifestyle, it is likely only to be a nibble. Fortunately, there are ways to get a more nuanced understanding of the cruising lifestyle while still having an enjoyable vacation experience. Chartering a bareboat can be one way to get closer to the cruising lifestyle. But, a boat w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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CHARTEE RING: A Taste of the Cruising Lifestyle CHART

with a crew that can share their onboard experiences might be even more appealing. The boats that charter bare, like many charter boats in the market, tend to be coastal cruisers, a popular choice for the cruising lifestyle. These boats are readily available, both new and used, and a good fit for many pocketbooks. Still, many cruisers choose other styles of boats, making some makes and models more popular and more desirable for the cruising lifestyle. Why not avail yourself of some other choices? Maybe a blue-water boat—a strong, durable, sea-kindly boat made to last—is to your taste. Or, maybe you have always thought it would be fun to sail a ketch, a yawl, or

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a schooner-rigged vessel. You are unlikely to find those choices in the bareboat fleets. If you do find and charter one, it might be a good idea to have a knowledgeable captain aboard. Longer charters may also be a way to get a more satisfying experience. Crewed or bare, more time aboard will give you more of the feeling of living aboard. A more extended charter may offer you the chance to get more involved with meal planning while underway, re-provisioning, storing goods aboard, and tossing those that did not last. The extra times creates the possibility of traveling greater distances—perhaps with a few shorter

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passages mixed in—or the experience of clearing out from one country and into another. Finding a charter boat that will get you a more authentic cruising lifestyle experience may involve a bit more research. You will probably need to look beyond the major charter companies and fleet operators, which could put you into the “niche” charter market. Here you will find the atypical boats and crews that can offer you something a little different. While some of the niche market boats are listed with the clearinghouses, many are not, so brokers may be a resource for identifying candidate boats from those listed with the broker clearinghouses.

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When using a broker, be sure to explain exactly what you want. Clarify that the charter needs to be both fun and provide exposure to more of the cruising lifestyle. Otherwise, you may find yourself back aboard one of their favorite big catamarans for that “party week” vacation. Explain what you might like as the boat, the kind of background for the crew, how involved you want to be while aboard, and the destinations you would find interesting. The broker should search through available boats and present you with options that most meet your needs. When searching yourself, be aware that most boats in the niche market that are candidates

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CHARTEE RING: A Taste of the Cruising Lifestyle CHART

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for the “authentic cruising lifestyle experience” will be individually owned operations with small advertising budgets. If you use one of the big search engines (Google, Bing, Yahoo!, etc.), you will need to dig beyond the first few pages of the search results. The major charter companies and brokers will dominate those first few pages. Try various keywords in your searches and go several pages deep in the results. Alas, this can be a frustrating experience with mixed results. You can also try the same booking sites you use to find a condo, villa, or winter ski house when you travel. These are surprisingly good places to find those niche charter operators. The boats get buried in all the land-based listings, but you can find them using the sites’ search filters for things like “unique stays” or “accommodation types.” Try narrowing the results by searching specifically for boats or yachts. When using boat and yacht search filters, you can keep your destination broad while returning a manageable number of options to pursue. A more off-the-beaten-path destination can also allow you to savor the cruising lifestyle more fully. Places like the BVI might be an ideal party spot, but the right boat and crew can still make the Virgin Islands an excellent place to

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experience a bit of the cruising lifestyle. So can charter destinations found throughout the world! The Caribbean has several great cruising grounds, as does the South Pacific, the Mediterranean, and places beyond. There’s no need to forego tropical weather or beautiful scenery for your cruising experience; great cruising grounds and great chartering locations go together, with some offering more off-the-beaten-path opportunities than others. For example, in the Caribbean, the Grenadines tend to be less crowded and a bit more remote than the Virgins yet has many similar attributes. A voyage amid the islands of Guadeloupe, Dominica, and Martinique can provide another cultural and geographic experience without losing that Caribbean flavor. Why should the French hoard all the fun, natural beauty, and great food? Exploring cruising destinations around the globe can offer unique anchorages and different sailing experiences as part of your next charter vacation. Your cruising lifestyle vacation should still have all the elements of a good charter vacation. Eating well, drinking, dancing, swimming, snorkeling, reading, relaxing, hiking, shopping, sailing—all can be part of the experience along with that extra element of more cruising lifestyle exposure.

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33RD

USA

(284) 494-4868 (800) 521-8939

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Experience

The Cruising

Lifestyle Firsthand

*Without forking over thousands of dollars on your own boat! By Erin Carey

Go small. Go simple. Go now. The legendary mantra of Lin and the late, great Larry Pardey has inspired many aspiring world sailors to sell up, buy a boat, and ship out! It certainly sounds romantic, but for some of us, it may not be realistic or desirable. Buying a boat is a huge financial commitment, and balancing dreams of tropical sunsets and adventures on the high seas with a little bit of caution just makes sense. What if you get out there and discover you hate it? What if your crew is miserable, and resentful of the upheaval to their lives? Confined spaces, endless maintenance, seasickness and rolly anchorages are all part of the sailing lifestyle. You may be asking, “How can I be sure that I can handle the challenges of living aboard?” Or perhaps you just need to build your skills and sailing experience before making the leap into sailboat ownership. Well, as the saying goes, “If you want to be a sailor, you have to go to sea”—and there are plenty of ways to get that on-water experience. You can always charter a yacht, but the reality is, if you hire a bareboat, you’re probably going to spend most of the time getting to know the boat and trying to figure out what you’re doing. This could end up being an expensive experiment, and not a lot of fun! If you head out on a traditional captained charter, chances are you will experience silver service, marina visits, and cocktails on the bow. However, it won’t be a realistic experience of a cruising life and you definitely won’t learn the ropes. But, there is a third option that will help you to gain practical experience, build your sailing skills and knowledge, and most importantly, get an authentic feel for living aboard a sailing yacht: owneroperated charters. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Experience The Cruising Lifestyle Firsthand

A focus on hands-on fun Unlike a bareboat charter, where you have all the responsibility, or a traditional captained charter where you have none, an owneroperated charter offers a happy medium: a hands-on experience without the added pressure of having total liability for the vessel. Steve and Monika of Sailing Wildside have captained their beautiful Leopard 44 catamaran, Groovy, around the crystal-clear waters of the Caribbean for years. Steve knows firsthand the advantages of having an experienced owner-operator on board with you to show you the ropes. “When you hire a bareboat, that’s exactly what you get, a sterile, bare boat. You have to worry about where to anchor, will the anchor hold, breakdowns (and boats do have a tendency to break down!), what tools are on board to deal with situations, spare parts, provisioning, the best anchorages to visit, and so on. With Sailing Wildside, the crew knows exactly how to get the most out of the boat because it is theirs! It is not owned by a large charter company or absent yacht owner that visits once a year. So what does that mean? It means that the owners know their boat and its systems intimately and can share that knowledge with you. It also means they know the cruising grounds like the back of their suntanned hand. Want to maximise your time onboard, relax, and enjoy your stay? Join an owner-operated charter boat and get the best of both worlds! Chartering alone also means the added pressure of being totally responsible for the boat and the safety of your crew, which can quickly turn an exciting holiday into a stressful and potentially expensive nightmare. Steve adds, “It amazes me how many people rent boats with no idea of the

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legal liabilities of being the master of a vessel. Sailing with a crew means you don’t have to worry about the responsibility. We are professionals with all the certifications, we have been doing this gig for donkey’s years, experiencing loads of charters with guests from all over the world.” For Steve and Monika, the focus is on providing guests with an experience that is fun, adventurous, hands-on and more closely resembling the pace of a cruising lifestyle. “We definitely don’t rush around doing the ‘7 islands in 7 days’ thing that is common with traditional captained charters, just to get a quick Instagram selfie and move on! We love to share with our guests the value of slowing down, disconnecting, and enjoying an alternative lifestyle” Offshore adventures A bareboat or traditional crewed charter is a great way to experience being on the water, but it will not give you the skills, confidence, or experience you need to set sail on w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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your own, especially if you dream of crossing oceans and chasing adventures over the horizon. The internet is littered with the broken dreams of daring sailing crews that head to sea, only to discover that boat, crew, or both, are not yet up to such a big undertaking. This can be a heartbreaking, costly, and potentially dangerous mistake. No matter how prepared you and your boat are, nothing can replace the actual experience of being “out there,” miles from land, in open-ocean conditions. Seeking professional training from an experienced offshore sailing crew like Vivian and Nathan from Ocean Passages is a great way to prepare for your own adventures at sea. Ocean Passages offers offshore sail training and expeditions, on their boat or yours. They also offer a boat delivery service, safely transporting yachts from all points around the globe. As Vivian points out, “It’s one thing to be inspired to sail, but it’s a whole different game to safely make a passage alone or with your family.”

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Experience The Cruising Lifestyle Firsthand

Onboard their beautiful blue-water sailing vessel, S/V Ultima, the Ocean Passages crew provides a complete offshore passage-making experience to their guests. “We love to sail with people from all walks of life and any amount of sailing experience, sharing our knowledge and expertise in passage planning, provisioning, cooking underway, routine maintenance, unexpected repairs, sail changes and trim, coastal and celestial navigation, and experiencing the beauty and raw power of the open ocean.” An adventurous sailing experience like this will certainly take you out of your comfort zone and give you a feel for the realities of this lifestyle— both the challenging aspects and the sublime. “Sailing with us provides an accurate glimpse into the world of sailboat ownership and offshore passagemaking. We attempt to make everyone as comfortable as possible and offer trips with a mix of ocean passages and island hopping, but the realities of ocean sailing and its challenges and rewards are always present. Nothing is as rewarding for us as encouraging a client who was initially somewhat frightened of the ocean to enjoy and revel in the power and beauty of our blue planet’s greatest wilderness.” Experience the cruising life If crossing oceans isn’t on your immediate itinerary, but you still want to “test drive” the cruising lifestyle before taking the plunge into boat ownership, look for liveaboard sailing experiences like those offered by Trio Travels. Brad, Krista and their son, Cole, offer weeklong sailing adventures in Mexico’s amazing Sea of Cortez on board their large and comfortable 42-foot catamaran, Saltair 3. With over 20,000 nautical miles under their keel, the Trio Travels crew loves sharing their knowledge and giving guests a taste of a simpler, more rewarding way of life. Jumping onboard an experienced cruising boat like Saltair 3 allows you to see the realities of the cruising life—both the positives and the more challenging aspects. “We are excited to give people the opportunity to join us and experience the cruising lifestyle first-hand,” says Krista. “Learn from what we have learnt, come and see what we have seen, and experience what we experience. If you’re contemplating this change in life, this new adventure, then this is the best way to get a feel for what it’s really like.” Spending time with an actively cruising boat also gives you the chance to ask all the questions you need answered to decide if the sailing life is

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for you. Reading a book or an internet forum just doesn’t compare to being able to get advice and perspectives from an expert in person. “You can learn from your mistakes, or you can learn from ours! We’re not saying we’ve made many, but there’s always something we wish someone had told us about before learning it the hard way” says Krista. And, of course, there are plenty of opportunities to get hands-on with the actual sailing on a charter boat like Saltair 3. “A trip with us is an opportunity to learn how to sail a Big Cat! Our guests learn how to operate and dock a catamaran, the best anchoring practices, navigation and passage planning and analyzing the weather. We also share our knowledge of electrical systems used aboard, advice on solar and lithium batteries, power consumption and management, water making, diesel engine maintenance and repairs, and so on. Of course, you can’t learn everything there is to know in one week but it’s an excellent start!” The personal approach of owner-operated experiences like Sailing Wildside, Ocean Passages, and the Trio Travels crew, is their greatest advantage. Most days onboard end with guests and crew relaxing together over sundowners or a good meal (cooked for you of course—after all, you are still a guest!), swapping sailing stories, asking questions, and sharing advice and firsthand experiences. There is no better way to have all your questions answered about what it is like to live and

travel by boat, than by spending time on one, with people who have been doing it for years and are passionate about sharing their knowledge and experience with others. And the best part is, even if you come away from the charter knowing that the cruising life isn’t for you, you will also leave with new skills, practical experiences, and memories to last a lifetime.

Hailing from the land down under, Erin and her family recently cruised the Caribbean for two years before crossing the Atlantic Ocean aboard their Moody 47 named Roam. Erin now runs her own PR and communications company called Roam Generation, helping adventurers, marine brands, and experts share their unique and inspiring stories. www.roamgeneration.com

Why Just Charter? Taste the Cruising Lifestyle! Custom sailing adventures for one or two couples, or a small family up to six. Sail a few days, or a week, or more aboard ‘Jalapeno’, our 52’ sailing ketch.

Virgin Islands, Grenadines, and Places In-Between

Yacht Charters

info@jalapenocharters.com ~ 775-742-6976 ~ www.jalapenocharters.com w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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To Charter or That Is the

M

y feet felt so free.

True, I had only made the transition from flip flops to bare feet, but that little bit of stripping down was a pinnacle moment. The crease of the smile broadened on my face.

For the next week, my wife, seven others, and I were going to be catered to and see some of the most spectacular sites the British Virgin Islands had to offer. This fully-crewed catamaran charter checked all my boxes. My ideal trip was a go, go, go! Prior to this trip, my wife and I had sailed just under 11,000 nautical miles in less than eleven months. We cruised our 1996 Island Packet 37 from San Diego, all throughout the Mexican coastlines, then crossed the Pacific and island-hopped through the Marquesas, the Tuamotus, the Society Islands, and Hawaii, then back to San Diego in less than a year. Staying idle is not in our blood.

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Not to Charter, Question!

By Captain Michael Harlow

Within an hour of stepping onto our barefoot catamaran, we were sailing across the Sir Francis Drake Channel to Peter Island. The protection of Dead Man’s Bay was perfect; there was hardly any wind, the sunset was incredible, and my wife and I didn’t have to do an anchor watch. If the anchor dragged, we were confident the hired skipper would look after it and keep us all safe. After another cocktail, I went to sleep with nary a worry. Waking up the next morning to the sounds of spoons tinkling in coffee mugs was the perfect melody. A few of the other guests were up and conversing in hushed tones, taking care not to wake anyone. I poured some java into my cup and socialized with our new friends. The night before, we had all introduced ourselves over an amazing dinner and quickly learned that we all had more than one commonality: we all love sailing, and we all loved to hike. An amazing breakfast was served, and we devoured every speck of it with zest and zeal. Then Captain AJ yelled, “The pool is open!” Hearing this, we all donned our snorkeling gear and jumped into the crystal clear and warm waters of the Caribbean. I was excited to try out my new underwater housing for my iPhone 11. The video footage and still images both above and below the water were incredible. I was having the time of my life. The anchor was lifted, and we motorsailed to Cooper Island for some lunch, snorkeling, kayaking, and beachcombing. With so much to see, we were off to the beautiful island of Virgin Gorda. Once anchored, the captain launched the dinghy, and we slowly puttered the rigid-hulled inflatable offshore of the Baths. We slid slowly w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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To Charter or Not to Charter, That Is the Question! into the water from the dinghy and lazily swam through the aquamarine liquid until our feet touched the sandy beach. Our first mate, Roxy, took a headcount, then we all followed her like puppies as she took us on a tour and educated us about the sinister history of this beautiful rocky shore. In a time, not so long ago, the stunning pools and grottoes of the Baths hid a secret of slavery and the undeniable hardship for the workers that toiled in the local rum trade. The name of the Baths is all too ordinary. After days or weeks of hard manual labor in the fields, the slaves came to the protected rock outcropping to bathe in the Caribbean waters, while the plantation owners watched over them. We exited the labyrinth of granite rocks, and the tropical beach of Devil’s Bay opened up before us. The beach looked postcard-perfect, with swaying palm trees, blue-infused waters, and even a puffy cloud here and there to offset the sun’s bright gleam. Once again, we waded into the water and swam out to meet the dinghy; some of us decided to swim to the catamaran, which was less than a lap pool’s distance away. We all quickly showered on the aft end of the boat to rinse off the saltwater, then we each meandered off to our private cabins for an afternoon nap. The next morning, I donned my free-diving gear, while others went to scuba dive the wreck, the Kodiak Queen. This wreck has quite a history. It survived the attack on Pearl Harbor, was one of the largest crab vessels of its time, and was purposefully sunk as part of the underwater art installation. Prior to being sunk as an artificial reef, the superstructure had been outfitted with a large wire-framed Kraken, which enveloped the aft end of the ship to make it look as if the beast pulled the boat down to its abyssal grave. To my dismay, though, the last hurricane in 2017 tore the artfully-done beast apart, and only remnants remain. Another aspect of the catamaran bareboat charter is engaging with the locals as well. At the famous Michael Beans’ “Happy Arrr!” in Leverick Bay, everyone got their toes in the sand and their party on because the show that Michael puts on is an “all in” experience. Not only is the show an amazing amount of fun, but some of the proceeds go back into the community to help the local children. If you love sailing, then the next day was perfect. We enjoyed a wonderful downwind sail all the way down to Marina Cay. We worked up quite an appetite from sailing and snorkeling most of the day, so our first dinner on shore, Scrub Island, was magnificent. While the group of us dined together, the captain and first mate refreshed our cabins with newly-laundered linens, loaded on fresh provisions, and had a cocktail nightcap awaiting us upon our return. No charter experience is complete without hitting up some of the touristy areas, so we sailed to the island of Jost Van Dyke and anchored off the sandy beach of the Soggy Dollar. As per tradition, we all swam to shore and posed in front of the live feed internet camera located outside the bar. Here’s a little known fact: you can pay it forward, so to speak, and buy a drink for a friend that you know will be coming to the Soggy Dollar in the future. You sign their name in the book and pay for their drink, and they have a free drink upon their arrival. We sailed ten minutes down the beach to anchor and check out Foxy’s Taboo. While some drank and some shopped, I decided to go for a short stroll, not knowing it could have been my last. As I walked in front of the bar, I heard a cracking sound, then a giant, “Boom!”

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A giant palm tree —50 feet tall, trunk rotted, and stripped of all of its fronds—snapped and fell behind me, missing me by about three feet. I was feet away from being a statistical anomaly, killed by Hurricane Irma three years after she had made landfall here. Happy to be alive, we set sail to Norman Island, where a few of us went night snorkeling in a beautiful and tranquil bay. The following day, more adventure awaited us as we woke up before dawn. Our captain took us on a hike to the summit of Norman Island, and we took in a beautiful Caribbean sunrise. After yet another amazing lunch, we island-hopped over to Pelican Island, where we snorkeled the anticipated spot, the Indians, two rock formations that jut up from the sea bottom with plenty of underwater scenery of sea fans, coral, and other subaquatic flora and fauna. We rounded out the day snorkeling at the Caves before anchoring in Little Harbor off Peter Island.

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To Charter or Not to Charter, That Is the Question! Early the next morning, a few of us took a fun-filled dinghy ride around Peter Island and went scuba diving on the hilariously-decorated, purposely-sunken ship of the old Willy T. Being a scuba divemaster, I have explored some of the most incredible underwater places around the world. However, none have made me smile and laugh underwater as much as this wreck. If you like pirates, this wreck has it all. We walked the plank (underwater), had sword fights with cutlasses, played a deck of cards with pirates, looked through a looking glass, and played like children along with all the skeletons that had been sunk along with the boat as another BVI underwater art exhibit. As our last day at anchor was coming to an end, my wife and I decided to go on a short hike up to the hurricane-ravaged Amway House to take in a little more history. This once-beautiful home (and all of Peter Island) was owned by the Amway Corporation from 1978 to 2001. The home had been destroyed by a hurricane and is now being reclaimed by nature. Goats, hermit crabs, birds, and other fauna meandered through the bush, and the trees and vines reached for the sky, attempting to block the incredible and magnificent views.

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Discover the San Juan Islands Knowing that our vacation was slowly coming to an end, we cooled off with one last snorkel. The squid, rays, pufferfish, and turtles literally posed for the camera one last time. I was in bliss. On our last day, the anchor was lifted, the stern line pulled in, and after a nice hour or so sail, we were back in Nanny Cay Harbor where it all started. The group of us treated our captain and first mate to dinner at the local beach bar. Between dancing, a lobster dinner, and (of course) one last sundowner, we reminisced over our incredible week-long adventure in the BVI.

Helpful hints for a

successful charter

• Don’t pack too much. Space is limited, and you will be in your swim gear most of the time, with the exception of dinner. • Do as much or as little as you want. It’s all up to you. • It’s much easier to get in a day before and leave a day after. You’re on vacation, so take the time to settle in. • All currency in the BVI (and USVI) is the U.S. Dollar. • Check the power outlets before you arrive. Our boat had 110V (standard), however some boats may differ • You won’t need your shoes the entire time. Shoes aren’t allowed on the boat, and sandals were fine for dinners on shore • Tips for the captain and first mate are typically 10% of the charter. Get cash before your charter, so you’re not scrambling to get it at the end of the trip. • Bring an underwater camera. You will love the pictures—it’s almost too easy • Bring several bathing suits. You will be in the water quite a bit!

Evergreen studded islands, abundant wildlife & peaceful anchorages...beginner or experienced we can help you discover the world-class cruising ground in our back yard! • Charter a cruising sailboat for a week or two and explore the beautiful San Juan Islands and the greater Salish Sea! Catamarans, trawlers & motoryachts too. • Learn to sail during a weeklong live-aboard course (private instruction options available). • Join a guided flotilla and enjoy the company of other boaters as well as the comfort and ease of having a flotilla leader. We are standing by to help you plan your 2021 charter, course or flotilla!

CHARTER

SCHOOL

Bellingham, WA • 360-671-4300 sanjuansailing.com w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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A Sinking in Saba By Glenn Patron

Here we were, back home in Puerto Rico and minor celebrities with our friends after our four-year cruise across the Atlantic to Europe and the Mediterranean. But, having sold our 56-foot ketch in Spain, we had decided to stay boat-less for a while and charter until our finances recovered. Our plan for our first try as renters was to introduce friends Jim and Nuala, and Roger and Neda to one of our favorite cruising grounds, the St. Martin, Saba, St. Barts triangle. And, even sweeter, I found a new Wauquiez 48 in St. Maarten bareboat at a remarkable off-season rate. A sunny Saturday afternoon a few weeks later found me at the charter base in St. Maarten impatiently enduring a very long, comprehensive chart briefing covering the surrounding waters that I knew like my own backyard. This was followed by a painstakingly meticulous walkaround rendition of the 48-footer’s checklist that I thought would never end. Why impatient? Because, to make the island of Saba, 27 miles away, before dark that night, we had to leave by 2pm, and I thought that a veteran like me should not have to endure all this detailed instruction.

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My crew, who had before noon eagerly gone shopping on the more glamorous French side of the island, returned dockside at 1:45pm loaded with boxes of exotic previsions and vintage wines. This gave me the incentive to shoo off the bareboat instructor, finished or not, and 2pm found us motoring out of Oyster Pond with our clothes still in duffle bags and the just-purchased provisions still in their cardboard boxes. Luckily, it was a typically glorious Caribbean day. Sunny, and with 20 knots of easterly trades driving us at near hull speed, we were able to pick up a mooring in Saba’s Ladder Bay in daylight after a rollicking 4-hour romp from St Martin. THE ISLAND OF SABA Soaring Saba is known as “The Unspoiled Queen of the Caribbean’’ for its pristine landscapes w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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and striking biodiversity as well as the total absence of cruise ship throngs on this beach-less vertiginous island. The two days we had allotted to getting to know unique, alpine Saba went by quickly and the morning of day three found us, at 9am, raising sails. Barreling along on port tack as the sun glittered off the deep blue of the Caribbean, we left the lee of Saba as we headed south on port tack in a fresh breeze to make the layline northeast for our next stop, St. Barts. I had the helm and continued putting money in the bank as we sailed away from Saba for a clear shot to the day’s destination 28 miles away to the North East. We were about 3 miles south of Saba when, with the blue hued mountains of our St. Barts right on the bow, I brought us about and passed the wheel to Jim. Stretching out in the big boat’s ample cockpit, I opened my book and, lifting my head every few pages to see how things were going, began to enjoy the sail. But as time went by, I became more and more concerned because we seemed to be making more than normal leeway towards the rocky shore of Saba to port. Sitting up, I told Jim to head up a little or we might be making an unwanted return visit to Saba. His reply—“I can’t. The steering is too sluggish”—really caught my attention. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Popping my head out from under the bimini, I checked the sails. They were fine, but I was shocked to see waves washing over a bow that was alarmingly pointed down at a “dive” angle. OMG WE’RE SINKING! Like a flash I was at the companionway and, looking down saw about a foot of water moving rhythmically back and forth over the cabin sole with each wave. “OH MY GOD. WE’RE SINKING!” Down the stairs I sloshed my way forward to look for bilge access when I spotted an absolute geyser of water gushing out of the galley sink. It wasn’t coming from the faucet but from the drain? Then it hit me. That long, tiresome checkout that I had rushed through, focused more on my watch than the instructions, had included a strong admonition to close the below-the-waterline sink drain valve when sailing on starboard tack. Now I knew why. Diving (literally) under the sink, I found and was able to close the sink drain thru-hull but, semisubmerged as we were, it was obvious that the smart move was to head for the closest land in case we had to beach the boat on (just my luck) Saba, the only Caribbean island without a beach. Climbing the ladder back to the cockpit, I could see that I now had the complete attention of five tight-

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lipped, frightened companions who looked to me for answers. Trying not to show my concern and my realization that, as a salty, expert sailor I was just a paper tiger, in my most confident voice, I declared, “Well, I stopped the leak.” A calming but somewhat self-serving statement. I slid behind the wheel and started the engine, and with its 100-horsepower churning away was able to bulldoze the bow around back towards Saba’s only marine facility, Fort Bay. Gale, my experienced crew, was already on the VHF broadcasting a PanPan and describing our situation, which was pretty scary. Each swell, with us now running straight downwind, would raise the stern and set us on such a bow-down angle that looked like a re-enactment of the conclusion of the film Titanic. No one was playing “Nearer my God to thee,” but I could see from the look in Nuala’s eyes that she was thinking it. Passing the wheel back to Jim, I announced, “I’m going below to find out why the water level isn’t going down.” Lifting the floorboards revealed a thick soup of debris and a bilge pump that had been

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sucking up as much paper as water and was now silent and hopeless. Then I recalled a story about a similar situation where a boat was pumped out by disconnecting the engine cooling water input hose and using it, engine running, to dry the bilge. Miraculously I remembered where they said the tool kit was stored and, more miraculously, the hose clamp and hose came free easily. The challenge now, squeezed into the small engine room, was to hold the intake hose under water with one hand and with the other, pluck crap out of the water before it was sucked into the engine’s cooling system, which would have cooked the engine and our goose. Tormented by the heat and noise from the straining diesel running at high speed in the enclosure, I was able to work my body around until I maneuvered my head out onto the cabin sole to breathe and observe conditions outside the engine room. It didn’t take long to prove the principle that fear, with time, recedes and practicality takes its place. The three women who I last saw clinging to the stern rail in terror began, one by one, to venture below. First was Gale, who whispered w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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as she walked by, “I’m going for our money and documents, just in case.” Then, a few minutes later, Nuala. “I‘m getting our money, documents, and my jewelry.” Followed soon after by Neda, who informed me that she was, “Collecting our money, documents, jewelry and, since there would be people at the port, changing into a nicer bathing suit and top.” SAFE AND DRY It seemed to me like an eternity, but we made Fort Bay in less than an hour and arrived with a nearly dry bilge. Gale’s Pan-Pan had raised a small crowd, sprinkled with people in uniform, waiting for us on the

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concrete quay. Now made fast, the Harbor Master told us that, alerted by Gale’s call, he had contacted the charter company and that they were flying two employees over from St. Martin to help us. Also in the crowd was a reporter from the local weekly, The Saba News, and, hearing all the chatter about the failed bilge pump and my creative method to siphon the boat dry, asked to interview “The hero who saved the boat from sinking.” A far better title than the one I deserved. I compliantly gave him a sanitized version of what happened while dreading the arrival of the

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people from the charter company. I was greatly relieved to find out that they had heard the “hero” story, which was now circulating widely, from their cab driver, and I was stunned when they appeared quayside offering effusive congratulations to me for my creativity in saving their boat and our lives. Swept along now by the inertia of what had become a saga to the locals, I did not complain when the charter company bought us a grand dinner and put us up that night at the exquisite Queen’s Garden Hotel (Saba’s best). If this wasn’t enough, we were told that they had a sister ship ready for us at the base to finish our charter when we flew back to St. Maarten the next day! My crew agreed that the remaining four days in St. Barts were absolutely idyllic. However, for me, tainted by my knowledge of the truth and a fervent hope that, like the fraudulent hero of Stephen Crane’s book, Red Badge of Courage, who became a better soldier, my hidden shame might at least be partially erased by becoming a better sailor. I almost felt relieved when, arriving back at the base in St. Maarten on our last day we found a very changed atmosphere. Our check-in process was carried out by personnel whose demeanor now indicated much more doubt than appreciation. Cold and distant, they, once the formalities were over, instead of a farewell, sent us off with the statement, “We carefully inspected your vessel but could not find the source of your leak.” Leaving unsaid (to their credit) their knowledge that our “sinking” was probably self-inflicted. The lesson? I learned that, no matter how many miles you have under your keel, pay attention because even a small detail can sink you. I was, in many ways, a very lucky sailor.

MAHINA

OFFSHORE SERVICES

Ocean 2021 Sail-Training Expeditions 9 and 12 days, May - Sept. in the Pacific Northwest

www.mahina.com/2021

s of ear ters! Y 5 g 1 har atin erm C r b e Cel ong T L

Change your Latitude - but make it worthwhile.

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Lost Souls, Wicked Weather, and Heaps of Fun By JoAnne & Bill Harris

In 2019, we set sail on our 1,104-nautical mile (as the crow flies) journey, that would take us from San Blas Islands, Panama, to Georgetown, Grand Cayman, to Lighthouse Reef, Belize, and then Rio Dulce, Guatemala, for our hurricane season Catamaran Marina reservation. We had been waiting in San Blas for several weeks for the most favorable weather window. When that day finally arrived, we anchored off of the Isla Porvenir immigration dock to check out. Afterward, we dinghied back to the boat, stowed the outboard, and brought the dinghy up on deck. A few minutes later, several cayucos appeared filled with smiling Kuna Yala adults and children. To our delight, it was Nestor and his lovely family, who we had not seen in over a year. They were bringing us gifts of homemade bread and fresh fruit. It was a super fun experience for us since they were the first Kunas we had ever met in the Kuna Yala Indian Nation. Upon our first Isla Porvenir arrival several years ago, they had welcomed us and invited us to their home for dinner and a tour of their island that evening. Ironically, they became the last Kunas we would ever see until our return one day. We shared cookies, lemonade, gifts, and fun conversation with them and gave them all goodbye hugs. It was a bittersweet moment. We always say if we had stayed forever in every place we ever loved, we

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would never have had this life full of countless adventures around the globe. We completed the rest of our passage prep duties, including attaching 150 feet of razor wire all along ULTRA’s lifelines. The razor wire was a deterrent for anyone that would even consider boarding ULTRA out at sea on this passage. Our curious Kuna friends hung out alongside while we completed our duties. We pulled up anchor and blew them all kisses goodbye. We were excited to be on our way to encounter our next adventure, but all the while knowing that we would be returning to some of the most dangerous waters in all of the Caribbean due to pirate attacks. These attacks are published on the Caribbean Safety and Security Net and distributed by word of mouth through the coconut telegraph. Recently there w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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had been a series of violent pirate attacks, so we had to ensure our safety and take every precaution. In addition, ULTRA was also armed with a 10-mile rated electric cattle fence around the perimeter that we have had for 12 years. We filled the cockpits with fenders, boat lines, cushions, paddleboards, and more to make boarding difficult by unwanted guests. We made our way through the Isla Porvenir reef system and raised the sails. The winds were brisk and the seas a little bumpy, but nothing out of the ordinary. It was projected to settle soon and become almost flat calm out there… or so was the weekly projection after consulting with a variety of reliable weather sources. Whilst making our way from Panama to Grand Cayman, we stayed 200+ miles offshore of Costa Rica, Nicaragua, and El Salvador to limit our pirate encounters and the fishing banks. Of course, this is definitely not the preferred route, but it was the safest route, in our opinion. During our passage to Grand Cayman, we only saw one other vessel, and it passed us within a mile. In the dark of night, that large, brightly lit fishing boat was going out to sea. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Before we departed, we topped up all jerry jugs, main fuel tank, saddle tank, and a 55-gallon drum on deck with diesel that totaled 295 U.S. gallons. This was all in preparation for the light winds and the hours of motoring that were forecasted by the weather gurus. However, the weather began to deteriorate. By the third day, we had big seas, high winds, and heaps of squally weather. ULTRA definitely does not like big, choppy seas. The seas were building and breaking high over the cabin roof, along with winds gusting well over 35 knots. In the middle of the night, while JoAnne was on watch, the bilge alarms began sounding off every few minutes. Thankfully, they would eventually turn off after a few minutes. Of course, all of the crazy stuff aboard always happens in the wee hours of the morning and when it is pitch dark outside. It was way too dark and rough to go out on deck to inspect. We have sailed in all kinds of weather around the globe on all types of boats, but we must say this was one of the worst continuous weather beatings we and ULTRA have ever endured. From the words of the fabulous Captain Ron movie, “Well, if anything is going to happen, it’s going to happen out there”. It did!

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Lost Souls, Wicked Weather, and Heaps of Fun

Inspecting The Situation As the long night dragged on and the howling winds and waves pounded ULTRA, we were eager to do our morning inspection. At daybreak, we clipped our life jacket harnesses onto our jackline and were ready to go up on the bow deck. The first thing out the door, WHAM, OMG…We both received an ice-cold morning shower of large waves of seawater that washed over us. That is when we both laughed and said to each other, “Ahhhh, yes, don’t you just LOVE this sailing life!” We pressed on and quickly discovered that each of our 30-year-old aluminum bow net spars cracked in half and eventually left the two starboard halves dangling from the starboard hull and thrashing about in the waves. The net webbing that attaches the net to the spar had been ripped away in several places. Armed with a knife, Bill straddled the bow, getting hammered by the waves, in a dangerous attempt to cut the rest of the bow net loose. He was successful in relieving the pressure from the spar halves, and we hurled the net into the cockpit. Now it was time to deal with the spar halves sporadically diving and rising in the waves. With each violent rise and fall, ULTRA’s thin hulls were in danger of being punctured by the aluminum spars, and those large holes would, in turn, fill with seawater. Bill secured a line to the center-hull-attached spar half and tied it to the center cleat and the starboard half attached

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to the opposite cleat. The port side bow spar was severely bent but not broken. The beating waves and pressure were being taken mainly on the starboard side. We carefully cut the net free from the portside spar and stowed it, too. All seemed secure; however, the squalls were relentless. Soon night fell again, and we resumed our rotating night watches. The starboard bilge high water alarm began sounding off every few minutes as it did before. The starboard ama is not safely accessible in rough seas. It was a long night, to say the least, but we kept up with the bilge pump, and soon morning came. It was time to go out on deck again to inspect. Yes‌we experienced a dÊjà vu. During the night in the severe weather, the spar half attached to the starboard inside ama was ripped off by the waves, and with each dive of the starboard ama, the bolt holes were sucking in gallons of water. Bill used a hacksaw to cut the six spar bolts still half-attached to the inside hull and stowed it. We had tried to salvage both halves to make for an easy replacement later, but Neptune claimed one of them. We plugged the holes with rags to prevent the entry of seawater until we could repair them properly when safely in port. While making a passage, we always check in via our SSB with our great friend and weather guru, Chris Parker, for his thorough weather reports and perform a daily check-in with the amazing volunteers of Maritime w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Lost Souls, Wicked Weather, and Heaps of Fun

Mobile Service Network on 14300MHz. We checked and tested our SSB antenna cable several times with Stu and Steph of s/v Matador, Chris Parker, and others before our Panama departure. It was operating perfectly. However, the second night out, it stopped receiving or transmitting a signal. Unfortunately, that was the only communication that we had onboard other than our ship’s VHF radio. No sat phone, no InReach, no nada. The thought of being out there alone with zero communication in the rough weather, combined with the damaged bow spars issue, was extremely disheartening. Thankfully, by the time this goes to press, we will have received our brand new InReach Garmin Mini that we ordered as a backup to our repaired SSB radio. Bill had changed all of the fuel filters on both the Westerbeke 8 kW generator and the Perkins 4.236 85-horsepower main engine before our Panama departure, including the two Racor filters. Since we only carry 50 gallons of water in our tanks, we made water underway. Unfortunately, the generator began to misbehave, so down into the scorching hot engine room Bill went. He discovered that the fuel filters were clogged with mucky, yucky fuel sludge. Even though we have a Baja filter and a Racor system, it seemed we had picked up some bad fuel during our Panama fuel top-ups. Bill succeeded in changing everything out at sea without burning himself or making a huge mess down there. Woo hoo! We fueled up out at sea several times since our main tank only holds 50 U.S. gallons. This is not an easy task, attempting to hover jerry jugs over a fuel fill whilst bouncing around at sea atop ULTRA’s main salon. Several years ago, Bill's solution for this had been to build a Racor system with a pump and two hoses. One hose in the jerry jug, one hose in the fuel fill, and the pump connected to a boat battery. Voila, the

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fuel transfers up to the roof fuel fill from the lower deck with ease. After the second set of fuel filters, we did not have any more issues with bad fuel. Land Ho, Grand Cayman Six days after departing Panama, we arrived around 6:30 a.m. in Georgetown, Grand Cayman, and the port captain granted us permission to spend the night on a mooring ball and check-in the following morning. We very carefully removed the razor wire from the lifelines with our metal mesh gloves. We celebrated being safe and sound by jumping into the crystal-clear water. We always do this since it quickly melts away the feeling that we have been in a washing machine for the last several hours. We quickly got our second wind, which we especially needed for this trip since we felt like we had been in the spin cycle for the last six days. There, directly underneath the boat to greet us were the gigantic tarpon that we remembered as well as the extraordinary coral and tropical fish. The next day, we cruised into the port and met with the extremely friendly and professional Immigration and Customs officers. Afterward, we picked up a mooring ball, launched the dink, and headed into town to get an ice-cold beer and stretch our legs. However, the most important thing was to get WiFi to report to family and friends that we had arrived safely. This was our second time to visit stunning Grand Cayman: a beautiful place, friendly people, and stores to provision and purchase boat parts. The first items on the list were to patch up the large gouges in the hulls caused by the bow spars wreaking havoc on them. The spar bolts had also done a number and had wallowed out large holes in the hull, which also needed to be filled. We patched up the hulls as best we could with West System and 3M5200 until we could haul out and complete w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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the job permanently. We attempted to locate the proper antenna wire for our ICOM-710 SSB, but it was not available on the island. We sincerely appreciate and thank everyone for their input on our Facebook Forum posts requesting advice on substitutions for the GTO-15. In the end, we purchased 14-gauge wire from a local company that installs high-end security systems and networks. We installed it, tested it, and our SSB worked brilliantly. We were able to communicate and listen to the weather once again. We replaced two bilge pumps that we had inspected and tested before departing Panama since they failed in both amas on our passage. Note: Upon our Grand Cayman arrival, we discovered we had two feet of seawater in the starboard ama. Yikes! Detour To Belize After a month of repairing what we could, resting up, and enjoying Carnival and the spectacular scuba diving, we were ready to set sail for the Rio Dulce. Due to severe weather, we headed for Lighthouse Reef, Belize. The last time we had been to Belize was 17 years and 361 days ago to the day when we had chartered a 42-foot catamaran from TMM for three weeks with another couple. It was as gorgeous as we had remembered, with its abundance of sea life and extremely healthy reef system. For additional local reference, we consulted our extremely old cruising guide, a first edition of Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast by Captain Freya that we had received from TMM. In Panama, our 10-year-old Raymarine C120 Classic chartplotter card reader failed, and parts were no longer available. We replaced the entire unit with a used E120 Classic in Shelter Bay Marina, and all worked well while navigating San Blas Islands for several months. However, a day into our passage from Grand Cayman, the chartplotter began experiencing a “Fix Lost” error (AKA: the GPS/ w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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chartplotter system does not know where the heck we are in the middle of nowhere). We had navigation backups running simultaneously, OpenCPN on the laptop and Navionics Boating HD App on the tablet. Due to the severe weather and not to further stress ULTRA, we took a detour to Belize to tuck into Lighthouse Reef. We were using updated Navionics charts, waypoints from other cruisers, and the cruising guide. We also used a sighting compass to confirm the bearings stated in the guide. It is important to ensure accuracy since, over the years, we have discovered some publications are not. In shallow waters, our most valuable tools are always our eyes. The waters in Belize are stunning but extremely intimidating due to the abrupt shallows and the super unforgiving reef system. It is recommended by all to take it slow and only to navigate in good visibility when cruising these waters. We arrived at Half Moon Caye, the anchorage, safely before sunset and attempted to navigate through the coral heads. We quickly changed our plan since we felt we did not have proper visibility; it was too risky. We pressed on another two hours to Long Caye to a more accessible anchorage. There, we made our way safely into the large anchorage and carefully dropped the hook in white sand at 25 feet, then jumped in the sea to celebrate. The water clarity was stunning and teeming with sea life. We killed three lionfish that were just under the boat for dinner. The next day, we pulled up anchor and moved closer to the island for better weather protection. During our time in the anchorage, some days, the wind blew 35 knots and was full of whitecaps; some were a mix of rain, thunderstorms, and squalls; and others were simply brilliant sunny days.

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Holy @#$%, what have I done? Please, God, help me get us through this safely and get us into a safe harbor. Also, if you could stop the screaming, that would help too. Offshore in terrible conditions with an overwhelmed tiller pilot, an overwhelmed sailor (if you could even call me that), and possible damage to the boat is not what I intended for this day. 72 Latitudes & Attitudes _pg 72-77 Bad Day Off Georgia - MKC.indd 2

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A Bad Day Off Georgia

By Adam Deem

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Bad Day Off Georgia How did I get here? I thought I had prepared sufficiently and was prepared for the conditions I expected, which were not what we were experiencing. Had I missed something, failed to prepare, not considered something, or am I just the worst sailor ever? Is the boat okay? I wish I had crew to help me, but she is downstairs crying and hiding in a bunk to avoid the perceived chaos all around us. Oh boy, what have I done? This chaotic January day started with good intentions. After a week of pleasant, if chilly and noisy, motoring down the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway and spending time avoiding boat traffic and shoals, spotting dolphins, and watching the scenery slowly slide by, we had anchored for the night off the ICW in the Crescent River in Georgia. The previous night was cool but beautiful, with endless stars and bioluminescence in the water that got stirred up in the dinghy’s wake when I took the dog to shore. I was tired of the long days of constant steering and noise of motoring the waterway and longed to sail, at least for a day. Today’s weather forecast called for cloudy skies and 15- to 20-knot winds from the north. The forecast for 20 to 60 nautical miles offshore called for big, steep waves, but the near-shore forecast was calling for 4 to 6 feet with 6 seconds, a bit steep and maybe a little uncomfortable, but doable. Our course was to take us down the river

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with a falling tide, out Doboy Sound near low tide, and then down the coast with fair winds and following seas to somewhere around Jekyll Island or maybe a little farther south. We’d been going hard for the last week, trying to make miles to escape the winter, and a good day of southbound sailing should help us to hasten our escape from winter. My profession in aviation has taught me to be thorough with planning and considering the weather and navigational hazards, to watch out for cognitive biases and hazardous attitudes, to be on the lookout for the unexpected, and to constantly evaluate possible contingencies should things go wrong. Today seemed like things were going to be pretty good until they weren’t. As we motored down Doboy Sound, helped along by the falling tide, I headed up and raised the mainsail. We should exit the inlet a little after low tide, hopefully in slack water. As we motorsailed close-hauled toward the channel, I saw breakers where the chart said they should be on the shallows to the north but didn’t see any significant seas where we should exit into the ocean. I figured if it got squirrelly in the inlet, we could just turn around and continue down the ICW. Little did I know how quickly that option would be cut off. All of the sudden, the seas around us were steep, and we were pounding into 5- and 6-foot waves. Then we hit bottom on a shallow spot as the wave

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trough drew water out from under us and then picked us up again. We were past the shallow bar, but it felt like a pretty solid hit. I yelled to check the bilge for water intrusion. There was none, thankfully, but turning around was now out for sure. Surely things will get more regular and less chaotic as we get into the deeper water and the prevailing waves, away from the effect of the remaining tidal current leaving the sound. As we continued out into the ocean and began to turn on course, the hoped-for respite from the seas did not occur; the waves quickly grew, with most of the waves at 6 to 8 feet, and the occasional bigger ones that I guess were about 10 to 12 feet but seemed way bigger as they towered over me sitting in the cockpit with my head maybe 5 feet off the water. The waves were steep and angry, and I was a bit scared. How was the nearest sea buoy reporting 4-foot seas with 6 seconds? This is not that; this sucks, BAD! Dominique rolled out of her bunk as a wave rolled the boat to about 40 degrees since we hadn’t rigged her lee cloth, expecting reasonable conditions. She was frightened, to say the least. We were reefed down well with two reefs in the main and one in the jib, one positive bit of preparedness, but the simple tiller pilot could not help

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Bad Day Off Georgia at all in the big following seas. As I struggled to keep us heading downwind without gybing, we surfed over 10 knots, and the boat kept trying to head up, exposing us to beam seas on the way. I worried about broaching and getting beam on to a big wave or accidentally gybing and breaking something. They weren’t breaking waves, but they seemed like they could do the job from my vantage point. I couldn’t possibly let go of the tiller to trim the jib and it slatted and flapped. I called for assistance, but my crew was too busy crying and screaming how angry she was with me to help. Her exact words were, “Never again, Adam!”, “I don’t like you right now!”, and my personal favorite, “I’m going to live with your mom!” Her fear gripped her tightly as she peered out the companionway and saw the big waves behind us. She shut down, unable to help or think rationally. The jib would have to wait a minute. We were doing okay, and the boat was really in little danger, but nerves and frustration became nearly unbearable. However, I could not relent no matter how overwhelmed I felt. I hollered, “We’re okay, everything will be fine. We just need to ride it out and keep going until we get to a safe place to tuck back inside.” I said it as

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calmly and as reassuring as possible, but I’m certain the anxiety in my voice betrayed how I really felt. As the day went on, over the course of several hours, the seas reduced slightly and became more regular. The sails were now well reefed, trimmed, and we were under control. It was still somewhat uncomfortable conditions with the originally forecast six-footers, but no longer hazardous at all. I hollered to my wife that we were okay, the boat was under control, and we were sailing well. Probably little comfort to her after the ordeal of the first few hours. As we neared the channel entrance to St. Simons Sound, things were well under control, but we would have to come hard on the wind and sea in order to run the channel into protected waters, which would likely be quite sporting. We made the turn, I hardened the sheets, and the boat heeled to a regular angle. As the apparent wind speed built to over 25 knots, I rolled in a bit more jib. Surprisingly, this upwind sailing was a relief as it made helming easier on me and freed up my hands to trim up the sails nicely. We were making slow progress under the double-reefed main and jib, but everything was stable. I kept up to the windward, red side of the channel, knowing if I got set down it would be nearly improbable to sail back into the channel. I started the motor, just in case we needed it. As we headed up the channel, two big construction vessels were slowly making their way out the channel. One of the captains called me and asked if we could give them room, suggesting there was “good water below the next green marker.” Afraid of hitting another shoal outside the channel—and knowing that it would be unlikely I could make back any windward distance lost as we were already close-hauled as tight on the wind as possible—I opted to hold the windward side of the channel and hug the red buoys. The big boats had room to get by, and I assume we looked like a couple of crazies sailing well-heeled into these steep waves that were throwing plenty of water and spray over the bow. I was wet, cold, and very worried about my wife and the condition of the hull after hitting bottom. “Almost there,” I hollered. After another 45 minutes of beating up the channel, we entered protected waters, turned off the wind, and headed for Jekyll Island. The sailing was now a fast beam reach in calm, protected waters, and I was immensely thankful for it. Things were calm and easy again, but would we be able or willing to continue our trip? Would my Dominique desert me and the w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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boat to head for home? Oh boy, what have I done? Did I really torpedo this whole trip on one bad decision? As we continued up the sound, I saw a huge, strange, and unidentifiable object ahead. Was it a floating dry dock, a strange building in the middle of the waterway, or something else? Continuing up the marked channel I still could not make out what I was looking at. Just then, I was hailed by a tugboat and given directions to keep away from the area. They suggested we head around the object to the south. It turns out that the object I was trying to identify was the top (now side) profile of the massive wreck of the m/v Golden Ray, an aground and tipped over car carrier ship, lying on its side. It was at that point that I realized that our day probably paled in comparison to the experience of the skipper and crew of that vessel. We continued around the huge vessel and quietly motored up the channel, arriving unceremoniously at the very welcoming Jekyll Harbor Marina. This ordeal ended with us spending a couple of days at the marina and trying to keep warm after a deep-freeze cold front pushed through. Our cruise did continue. Upon inspecting the hull, the only damage was a little lost bottom paint and my pride, and I managed to convince Dominique to give me another chance by plying her with good food and the promise I would be far more careful from now on. I learned a lot more about sailing and tidal effects from the mistakes of that day, but the experience could have been gained in better, safer ways, and the crew would have been much happier for it. This day tested our mettle and caused me to take a hard look at what happened to prevent such an occurrence in the future. First and foremost was my desire to sail, and the willingness to accept a somewhat distant buoy report and near-shore forecast as a report of prevailing conditions for the whole area rather than err on the side of caution and use the much more conservative (far worse) offshore forecast as a guide to potential conditions. Confirmation bias is dangerous, particularly when it provokes us to disregard potential

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hazards in favor of a single rose-colored weather report that may be affected by local conditions and not indicative of the overall conditions. In fairness, as we approached the area where the buoy was located, we did see the more benign conditions reported by the buoy. Second was the limitations of my local knowledge and tidal conditions. A review of the Coast Pilot writeup for Doboy Sound reveals a variety of warnings of shifting shoals and potentially hazardous conditions, “The marked channel over the bar at the entrance to Doboy Sound is not considered safe for strangers, except on a rising tide and smooth sea.� Had I read and considered this warning, we would have had another pleasant day in the protected waters of the ICW and this ordeal would have been avoided. Adam and his wife Dominique are novice cruisers and the proud owners of a beautiful and well-kept 1969 Tartan 34C, s/v Wackadoo, which they recently sailed down the East Coast to the Bahamas and back. Adam is a commercial pilot and Air Force Reserve officer. Dominique works with developmentallychallenged children and the elderly. Together, they and their daughters are learning to sail and hope to head off someday on a great voyage, one step at a time.

Latitudes & Attitudes 77 10/28/20 10:38 AM


Good Deeds During COVID ...or, no good deed goes unpunished

By Monika Kendrick

“I can’t be out here if anyone in my family gets sick with this thing,” I said, feeling flummoxed. “While I understand the desire to stay in this comfortable watery cocoon, I feel like it’s time to go home.” Captain Judy and Maggie looked at me for a beat, and then I saw that they agreed. Captain Judy Hildebrand invited me to crew for her in early March. She had been hired to transport her friend Maggie’s remaining possessions back to the States after the sale of her property on Green Turtle Cay in the Abacos, Bahamas. COVID 19 was in its spin-up in the US, and due to conflicting reports in the news media, there was no real indication of what to expect. The US president seemed cavalier, and social media was largely making jokes about rapidly disappearing toilet paper from grocery stores. The stock market was in a deep dive, and our nation seemed bewildered. After talking with my husband, we decided it was better to help Captain Judy and those she served than to succumb to an increasing sense of panic. I accepted her invitation. The captain had completed eight other relief runs to Grand Bahama and several cays in the Abaco chain following Hurricane Dorian. This was to be her last. Otter, a donated Catalina 42 MKII, was packed halfway to the overhead from the bow to midships with outbound donations. Once the goods were delivered, we would reload

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with passenger Maggie’s items and return to Fort Lauderdale. I felt slightly apprehensive as we sailed away from Fort Lauderdale on the evening of March 17, 2020, intuitively knowing our nation was on the cusp of a paradigm shift. As we departed, we saw several cruise ships all seemingly headed in the same direction. This was curious to me, and when I asked the captain about it, she guessed it had to do with the virus. She was right. I would later see many of these ships again. After a rough night crossing the Gulf Stream, we arrived

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at the Old Bahama Bay Marina at West End, Grand Bahama, where we stayed just long enough to unload a portion of the boat’s freight before continuing toward the Abacos. Two days later, just as US news and social media were exploding with information, misinformation, and outright panic, the captain began to experience a tickle in her throat that turned into a cough. I silently questioned my decision to crew on this trip as I began to comprehend the tenuous situation in which we might find ourselves. However, I was

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committed, come what may, and decided it best not focus on media reports or Judy’s growing cough. A day later, we arrived at our first Abaco destination, Green Turtle Cay. The boat was met at a private dock by a happy group of folks who helped offload goods while keeping safe miles. I was struck by the hurricane’s devastation. There were many new roofs, but many structures were beyond repair. I was taken aback but also felt amazed at the tenacity of the Bahamian people. That evening, after showers and conversation at Maggie’s house, Judy and I returned to the boat. “I’m afraid I might have it,” Judy confessed. “I feel awful.” Emotionally I felt anxious, but mentally I reasoned she was more likely suffering the onset of a head cold; at least that was our hope. The following day we delivered cargo to Man-O-War and Elbow Cays, taking great care to stay at safe distances. Offloading was quick and quiet, accompanied by a feeling of uncertainty in the air. We anchored that evening off Elbow Cay with a plan to deliver our remaining goods to Marsh Harbor the following morning. The captain looked and sounded worse. I made dinner, and she went to bed. I spent a sleepless night in the cockpit conjuring scenarios in my mind. What-ifs ran around my brain like a marble swirling down a funnel. There were no confirmed cases in any of the places we’d visited. But what if we had exposed our Bahamian friends to this potentially lethal virus? There’s almost no medical care on these hurricane-devastated cays. What if one of us died before returning to the States? What if we weren’t allowed back into the US? I hadn’t considered the ramifications of one of us becoming ill, and now I felt I’d been selfish.

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I experienced myriad emotions, ranging from guilt and shame to fear and doubt, as I stared at the stars. By the time morning arrived, I had accepted the situation as it was. I would not live in fear. I would face whatever eventuality came with good sense and courage. The captain was my friend, and we were a good crew with Maggie as our passenger. We would bring her and her possessions safely back to the US. If Judy’s symptoms changed dramatically, I would be responsible for getting the boat back to the US. It was the first time I recognized I was competent to run the boat should the captain become incapacitated. It was a milestone moment for me. When we returned to Green Turtle Cay, Judy still felt poorly, but there was no fever—nor would there be. She would recover from her head cold. During our overnight absence, the Bahamian government had enacted curfews. We were back on the boat by 2100 and soon learned the curfews had been expanded and the borders closed. We were welcome to leave but not to return. Now we were in an awkward position. Although we’d brought needed items to various individuals, we weren’t welcome on the cay. The perception was that we were outsiders with the potential to bring the harmful virus to the islanders. However much the Bahamian people value our American presence, they are very aware of the lack of available medical services. The last thing they needed was another catastrophe. Maggie, with the help of long-time friends, returned to the boat the following morning, bringing as much of her previous home as she could manage. Once the boat was loaded, we said our goodbyes and began waiting for an appropriate weather

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window to sail home. Thankfully, we had already refueled. Thirty-six hours later, we cast off the dock lines and headed out the Black Sound Inlet. We motorsailed south through the night, down the east side of the Abacos and into the Northeast Providence Channel. We set the anchor the following morning at Great Harbor Cay in the northern Berry Islands and spent the day resting. It was here

that we discussed extending our time in the Bahamas, but ultimately decided we must return to the US. And so it was that at 1930 we weighed anchor and set sail for Fort Lauderdale. During my midnight watch, I was astonished to see nine cruise ships lined up bow to stern off the starboard side of Otter, each with all their lights ablaze. It was like a mute parade of Christmas

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Latitudes & Attitudes 81 10/28/20 10:49 AM


floats, frozen in the stillness of the night under a sky of shimmering stars. It was surreal and delightful at the same time. On my next watch, I was again mystified by what I eventually figured out was the glow of six more evenly spaced ships just over the horizon. They appeared as orbs of white light resting on the edge of the ocean. These phenomena were a direct result of a crazy virus that was changing humanity as we sailed through the darkness to an unwelcome new reality. Wonder and concern ruled my mind. I had no idea what we would find upon our return. On the morning of March 28, 2020, as we neared the US coastline, the sun began to rise, as did the trepidation I had felt at my departure nearly two weeks earlier. I didn’t know what to expect; the world appeared to be shifting on its axis, and that felt very scary indeed. We were almost home, though, and that was a relief. After docking, Judy cleared us back in with no problem. Maggie’s husband was waiting with a trailer ready to receive the remains of their many years on Green Turtle Cay. Eventually we said our goodbyes, each of us headed into a new and disorienting reality. We understood we were uncontaminated due to our time at sea, and hopeful of keeping it that way. As I loaded gear into my car, I couldn’t help but look back and recognize how fortunate I had been to have had this experience. I hoped our presence and contributions, however

82 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 78-83 Good Deeds - MKC.indd 6

untimely, had been a cause of relief for at least a few Bahamians. As a sailor, I’ve observed the cruising community has a kind of loyalty to the cultures they participate in, however briefly. Cruisers form bonds with the waters, lands, and people they interact

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Latitudes & Attitudes 85 10/28/20 5:15 PM


Underway! Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Underway section, folks from all over the world show us what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic in the highest resolution possible. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probaby throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: underway@LatsAtts.com.

86 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 86-99 Underway - MKC.indd 2

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By Ray Muzica, on the ICW off Port Orange, Florida

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Latitudes & Attitudes 87 10/26/20 5:29 PM


By Sam Steele, of s/v Radiance and s/v Creola in Resurrection Bay in Thumb Cove

By Jeff Inshaw, in the Caribbean

Nikita Lewis with her friend the tern in Bimini

By Danny Web, San Francisco

By Courtney Parks, the Bocas del Toro Regatta in Bocas Marina, Panama

88 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 86-99 Underway - MKC.indd 4

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By Donna, in the BVIs

By Carey Luken, of s/v Meander, a Hylas 49 anchored in Annapolis

By Daniel Bowman, of sunset

By Roy Rector, in the BVIs

By Cindy Holden, how to warm butter

By David Miller, off the coast of Belize

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Latitudes & Attitudes 89 10/26/20 5:29 PM


Here’s Isabella Stefania, looking good!

By Peter Isern, enjoying beers at Mashta Flat, Key Biscayne Sydney Bowman and Schooner in Cox Creek, Maryland

By Brian Schatzman, checking out a nurse shark under the boat at Monkey Point

Of Chris Stokes with a “Poor-man’s Parrot” on St. Thomas

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Heidi Gross and friends

By Guilerimo Mulet

By Chris Stokes, of a squall blowing through the channel, taken from the Soggy Dollar Bar in Jost Van Dyke, BVI

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Latitudes & Attitudes 91 10/26/20 5:29 PM


By Bill Mathus, of granddaughter Izelm, captain of Carolina Soul!

By David Wilmington

By Captain Joe, of Haitian cargo in Nassau By Mark Wareham, taken on the northeast coast of Newfoundland

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By Linda, of Craig Lyons sailing between Puerto Penasco and Loreto

By Jessica, crewing in Maine

Brian Styles in Trenton Marina, Ontario, showing Emily and Grace their article that just came out after seeing them on the dock! By Michael Thomson, of Debby on Watermark, off Long Beach

Debbie and Jeff Kolod in New York Harbor (duh!)

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Latitudes & Attitudes 93 10/26/20 5:29 PM


By Cam Law, of Lucy sailing on Moonstruck off the Inner Hebrides, Scotland

Flamenco Beach, Culebra, Puerto Rico

Of Gary and Ginger in Zihuatanejo, Mexico

By Michael Cotton, aboard M’aisling at the Exuma National Park in Warderick Wells, Bahamas

By Brandee, of Stargazer anchored south of Titusville with Cape Canaveral in the background

By Jason S

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By Nancy Mullen, Shelter Island, New York

By Robin Stout By Glenn Smedstad, taken at “The Friday Hole” at Valer in Norway on a sunny and warm (believe it or not) evening

By Kyle Boblitt, s/v Mandolin on Mosquito Lagoon, Florida

Of Jolly Rover II, enjoying an easy day off Key West

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By Gary Peterson, from the 2004 Lats&Atts Oak Harbor Party

By Jeff Reiner

By Dawn Hilliard, taken aboard Destiny in Mexico By Johns Simpson, of a Hurley 22 and Swallow boat on River Colne, Ipswich

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By Ken Peckham, of s/v Scallywag anchored in Baltimore’s inner harbor

By Kevin Spellman, at Corsairs, Jost Van Dyke

By Jim Guthormsen, in Boot Key Harbor, of Marathon, Florida

By Jim Miller, of a very serious 12-year-old Gabriella— her first time at the helm of ANY boat—right at home on our new Catalina 387 on Lake Michigan

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By Greg Billman, of s/v Cruzan Rhumb II underway off Key West

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By Charles Parks, Stuart Florida

Sent in by Dave Pyeatt of 10 waterspouts at the same time, off Louisiana

By Peter Levey, SV Echo at dawn in Cole Bay, Lake Champlain

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By Capt. Jim of Sally and Allison enjoying a sail out of Annapolis on the Chesapeake Bay. Sailing on Diamond In The Rough

by Gary of Caryl Kayaking at Chaterbox Falls Princess Luisa BC

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By Len Freedberg of Kaiyo at 4 years off age steering Judy in Quincy Bay, showing you are never too young!

Latitudes & Attitudes 99 10/26/20 5:29 PM


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Latitudes & Attitudes 101 10/29/20 2:25 PM 10/29/20 4:44 PM


While You Can By John Wentworth

For every joy, it seems, there is a price to be paid— and in this instance, the cost was very high. I had long wanted to sail in the British Virgin Islands. The ideal, I thought, would be with someone whose local knowledge would allow me to enjoy the experience with a degree of security while absorbing the adventurous sensations of the exceptional surroundings. The clear, deep water, fresh wind, and lovely serene anchorages drew my spirit, spending endless hours invading my consciousness. Someday, I mused, someday. The voice on the other end of the phone was easily recognizable as belonging to my former college roommate and friend of some 48 years, Ed. He was, among many good things, a veteran sailor who had spent a considerable

102 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 102-119 Lifestyles - MKC.indd 2

amount of time living, flying, and sailing in the Virgin Island area of the Caribbean. We had sailed together stateside, but what he proposed in that call caused my temporarily dormant thoughts of the BVI to resurface and rekindle. “My nephew and I are going to charter a boat in Tortola. Would you be interested in going?” I am devoted to play, so on the surface this offer was irresistible. The timing, however, was less than impeccable—it was December 2008. The economy was in shambles, promising further decay, and my confidence in any realistic recovery was low and quickly descending. My wife, Linda, and I had made fiscal adjustments to compensate as best we could, and a trip to the BVI would violate the boundaries we had set for ourselves. But it was, after all, a bona fide opportunity to live a dream. Hmmmm. My w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

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impulse was to scream a resounding “YES” into the receiver, but I chose instead to temporarily retreat into the short-term security of procrastination. “Let me give it some thought, talk to Linda, and I’ll get back to you.” “Ok,” he said, “no problem.” “Oh, by the way,” Ed continued, “I’ve been diagnosed with ALS, Lou Gehrig’s disease.” The thunderbolt came from the clear blue with no forewarning. I had discerned no indications. I was stunned. Speechless! I was casually familiar with this brutal disease, enough to recognize the consequences of the words he had just spoken. I had a reasonable expectation of what lay ahead for my friend and his wife, Linn. What I did not know, what none of us knew, was the rapidity of his future decline. “I think you should go,” counseled Linda. “This may be the last chance you have to sail that w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

pg 102-119 Lifestyles - MKC.indd 3

area with Ed. GO!” The wisdom of her words overcame my hesitation and prompted my acceptance of the invitation. Ed’s son, Bryce, an able sailor in his own right and past shipmate aboard Ed’s vessel in the Florida Keys, rounded out the crew and assumed the understood position as first mate. Ed’s nephew, Dale, although limited in experience, proved himself a valuable hand and a pleasure to have on board. We were a happy crew! Ed’s demeanor of command was low-key as befitted his personality. This allowed the two younger men to essentially “run the boat” while Ed quietly observed and occasionally offered a suggestion from his storehouse of experience. The crew’s two elders took advantage of the situation and spent time reminiscing and engaging in general sloth.

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From our departure out of Road Harbor into the waters of the Sir Frances Drake Channel, the amalgam of the sailing sensations I had so hoped for congealed into an experience above my most inflated anticipations. The Beneteau 33 responded in lively fashion to an ample supply of wind and made its way through the deep blue waves with a feeling of solidity that provided a pleasant level of comfort. We were not pressed for time, so we ran under less than maximum sail power frequently, trading speed for less strenuous control of the boat. We fell into an easy routine, beginning the days sailing and reaching our chosen destination, usually by early afternoon, thus giving us a competitive chance at the prime moorings for that night’s stay. We then activated our dinghy to reconnoiter our new surroundings and replace any needed stores. We swam the lagoons, walked the beaches, sampled the available culinary fare, and relieved the local merchants of some of their rum. Toward the end of our adventure, we added conferences on how we could extend our stay and avoid, indefinitely, our return to reality. Our itinerary was controlled by the vagaries of the wind and the loose gathering each morning over rolls and coffee. We enjoyed each new island, but we revelled in the sailing it took to get there—the journey overshadowed the destination. We were not alone. We sailed in concert with many other boats, ranging from modest to magnificent and crewed, I expect, by sailors of like ambition, to enjoy some of the finest sailing available in this part of the world. Had it not been for my friend, I would possibly still be looking forward to, instead of in retrospect at, cruising the lovely chain of islands known as the BVI. Had it not been for Linda’s counsel, a fate of inaction may well have w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 105 10/28/20 11:15 AM


To Wash or Not to Wash – That is the question! By Vicki Seymour

Okay, I’m not talking about whether you should wash, but the great debate: to have or not to have an onboard washing machine. After spending the first half of my sailing circumnavigation without a washer—and after much pleading, backed up by my “with or without” expenditure analysis—I finally got my way and got a machine on the boat. The second half of the circumnavigation was, from my point of view, infinitely the better for having it simply for the convenience factor. It was at my beck and call at any time of day or night, in any place, ready to do anything from a small quick wash to a great big pile of “smellies.” However, this is my experience, and there are a number of things to consider. First, the cost of the machine. If your boat did not come with a machine, I recommend you do not buy a specific “boat” washer. Friends of mine bought a simple washer from Walmart for around $200, and we did the same buying

106 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 102-119 Lifestyles - MKC.indd 6

a small 3.3 kilogram (7 pound) campervan washer for a similar price. It does it all—from socks to sheets. It cannot handle heavy bedding, but I save that for a “once in a while” cheap laundering place. This has to be compared to the cost of using a laundromat or laundry service. Both can be very expensive, although the cost of getting your washing laundered varies wildly around the world. I think the cheapest place I ever had any washing done was in Ecuador, where I spent around $25 getting some bedding done, and the most expensive Mauritius, where after the Indian Ocean crossing, there was a lot to wash. Fortunately, we had the washer installed before arriving in either French Polynesia or Marigot Bay in St. Lucia, given the costs there were in the hundreds of dollars for a week’s worth of washing for my friends without machines! I can also tell many tales of laundry services gone wrong—something else I do not want to experience ever w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

10/28/20 11:15 AM


again. This ranges from clothes and bedding coming back almost less clean than when they left, missing clothes, receiving other people’s clothes and not having a clue who might have yours, and damaged clothing. I exaggerate not! I also do not want to spend the time researching every port for the safest laundry service—as you know, there is enough else to do. Another consideration is where the washer should go if not already installed. Our boat had a head too many, so we converted one to a laundry and storeroom, which works perfectly for us but may not for you. Beware too of the size of the doors you will have to get the washer through to install it. That limited us to a certain width dimension, but it was not a problem as it turned out. Finally, you have to take into account how you use your boat. How long are you at sea for and where are you going? If you cruise from your home base a couple of weeks at a time, you may not want to take up the space with a washer and simply save the laundry for back home. However, if you are buying a boat, or have a boat and are planning on heading off for months or years, and have the space, I recommend you at least consider installing one. I never dreamt there would be a day that I got excited by a washer, but now I am in love with this little machine, and I guess you can say that’s cruising life! w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 107 10/28/20 11:15 AM


There’s This Place: Barnegat Bay By Bill Wolfson

Say its name and the mind conjures up images like the Turnpike, the Meadowlands, and soap operas about organized crime families. New Jersey has been a fertile target for generations of comedians. Are you from New Jersey? Really? What exit? Isn’t your state bird the mosquito? The New Jersey jokes are endless. We New Jerseyans do not go to the beach—we “go down the shore,” as if we were hoping it was a place wanting in “respectability” and its indulgent fun vaguely beneath us allegedly “solid citizens.” Our state’s beaches are accused of being fringed with seedy boardwalk tattoo parlors and pizza shops. I have to admit, I do not have a tattoo, but I do love pizza. And I love what people often overlook when discussing New Jersey: the easy sailing of Barnegat Bay’s sheltered waters. This experience is a true New Jerseyan pleasure, especially when you get to introduce friends to the cruising life. Barnegat Bay runs some 23 miles long, from Bay Head in the north to Conklin’s Island in the south. To the east, this sheltered, shallow body of water is tucked behind the barrier islands of Island Beach, which is actually a narrow, sandy peninsula, and Long Beach

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Island. To the west of Barnegat Bay lie swamps, Route 9, many small towns, and the mysterious Pine Barrens. The best sailing in the bay is just south of the Route 37 bridge, where the water is deeper, and the bay itself is at its widest. While the bay can be challenging to get to from the ocean, its pleasures are well worth the effort. You can access the bay from the Atlantic via the Manasquan Inlet and down the 3-mile long Point Pleasant Canal from the north. (Just beware the 3-knot current and drawbridges). The Manasquan Inlet is about 40 miles south of New York. A flashing red bell buoy marked 2M lets you know you are about a mile off the entrance into the inlet. Once you are inside the inlet, there are two bridges you must pass under. The railroad bridge remains open most of the time, except when a train rumbles across. A short distance to the west, the Route 35 bridge will open on demand. It is possible to be briefly caught between the two bridges. On the north side of the inlet is the town of Manasquan; on the southern is Point Pleasant. Near the Route 35 bridge on the Point Pleasant side is Spike’s Fish Market and Restaurant. Spike’s has excellent lobster rolls, snowy New England Clam chowder, wonderful w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

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coleslaw, and, of course, locally caught fresh fish. They also make Swedish Apple Pie. This is not to be missed. After heading up the Manasquan River for two miles, you’ll find the northern end of Point Pleasant Canal, marked by a flashing red navaid. Here two lift bridges afford 65 feet of clearance when raised—note that the bridges will be raised upon request. The canal’s southern end is at Bay Head and the beginning of Barnegat Bay. The northern end of Barnegat Bay is shallow. You need to go south of the Metedeconk River and Mantoloking for water that is a bit deeper. Staying in the marked channel is your best bet. From the south, cruisers can enter the bay at the Barnegat Inlet in the town of Barnegat Light. The offshore whistle buoy—BI— will identify the entry channel. The Barnegat should not be attempted at any time other than during flatwater at slack tide. The inlet sports a 4-knot current, and winds blowing against the current can set up a nasty chop. To add to the fun, though the inlet is dredged periodically, the inlet shoals up in some places and deepens in others. Since any of these can occur at any time—including mid-season—the charts are not always completely reliable. But, it sounds worse than it is. If you take care to use the inlet at slack water or when the current is not at its peak, then you should have little difficulty. If possible, follow another vessel in or out of the inlet and hope the skipper has recent local knowledge. Maybe you’ll get lucky and be following a captain from the local fishing fleet out of Barnegat Light’s High Bar Harbor. The Barnegat Lighthouse identifies the Barnegat Inlet. Now a historical monument, the lighthouse is no longer in use, though visitors may climb to the top to take in the view. High Bar Harbor at Barnegat Light has marinas, a Coast Guard station, and many restaurants and bars within walking distance. In the summer months, the restaurants and bars on the northernmost Long Beach w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 109 10/28/20 11:15 AM


Island town are filled with vacationers who have gone “down the shore.” The Pine Barrens are the largest aquifer on the East Coast. They are also home to the Jersey Devil (an imaginary creature so ferocious that a National Hockey League team borrowed its name), and to that unique New Jersey citizen, the “Piney.” The bay is a skinny sailing area along the Intercoastal Waterway. It is deepest and widest below the Route 37 bridge that spans the bay between the town of Toms River and Seaside Heights. It has a number of short rivers to poke into that reward the mariner with leisurely sailing and an occasional sail-up restaurant. The Toms River is navigable for sailboaters drawing 6 feet or less up to the Route 166 bridge in downtown Toms River township, four miles from the bay. It is well marked, with several marinas with transient slips and full services, including the Ocean Gate Yacht Basin. The Ocean Gate Yacht Basin, which opened in 1957, has travel lifts, full-service repairs, fuel, ice, and a wellstocked ship’s store. Here you can also find launching ramps for trailered boats, picnic tables, a bathhouse with hot showers, and a host of unique characters. The Toms River boasts classical Victorian architecture and one of America’s oldest yacht clubs along its northern bank at Island Heights. The town of Ocean Gate has a mile-long boardwalk and beaches along the southern bank of the Toms River. A short twoblock walk from the dinghy dock at the Ocean Gate Yacht Club brings you to the Anchor Inn, which has great food at reasonable prices, large portions, and icy cold beer on tap. Not to be missed is the Italian seafood of the Anchor Inn. The Toms River is ideal for a lazy afternoon’s sail interrupted by a swim off the stern in one of many coves. Along the southern bank of the Toms River, the towns of Pine Beach and Beach Wood have roped off swimming areas and sandy beaches. The Toms River hits the bay at Good Luck Point. The point has many antennas for an AT&T facility. South of Good Luck Point and a small marina of the same name. On the mainland is the Waters Edge restaurant, which offers dockage to provide water-side access to its outdoor tiki bar and dining. Indoors, you will find white tablecloths and “cuisine.” Outdoors there are “eats”—specifically, tuna burgers, fried shrimp, pizza, hamburgers, good French fries, and tropical libations. Weekend happy hours offer entertainment and dancing outdoors in the summer. Some of the bands have been good. The restaurant’s dock staff will tie up your boat to accommodate a somewhat rolly spot. The surge can be troubling, especially with a stiff wind off the ocean in the late afternoon, so some locals will drop anchor off the dock and dinghy to the restaurant, or hitch a ride from a power boater. After a few drinks on

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a hot day, some customers have been reported to have difficulty negotiating the gap between dock and vessel in the surge. Three miles south of Good Luck Point and the mouth of the Toms River is Cedar Creek. While en route, check out the nesting osprey couple Fred and Ethel. They have built a nest on a lighted navigation aid that marks the Intercoastal. There is an anchorage behind a breakwater at Berkeley Shores State Park. A park is a favorite place for locals to go crabbing and swimming. Cedar Creek is wide, running a mile inland to a handful of marinas. From Berkeley Shores State Park, you can see the Barnegat Lighthouse, and north of it, Tices Shoal. The shoal is a favorite weekend anchorage, with 4 feet of water within a hundred yards of the beach, and a sand and mud bottom. A quick dinghy ride and a short walk on the path through the dunes bring you to a usually empty beach near the southern end of Island Beach State Park. On weekends, Tices can be identified by the busy anchorage into which it turns. There are no facilities. As with many places on the Barnegat Bay, pay careful attention to the tides. When the wind is blowing the wrong way at low tide, there is suddenly very little water under your keel. An 8-mile sail further south from Good Luck Point and past a protected marsh brings you to channel marker BB and the Forked River entrance. The pleasure boat traffic on the river during the summer weekends can be heavy. The entire river is a no-wake zone. The southern bank is lined with homes and shallow lagoons that stretch off to more homes. The first mile of the northern bank is the edge of the wildlife preserve. You’ll see a large home at the junction of the river, where it divides into a deeper northern fork and a shallower southern fork. Take the w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

10/28/20 11:15 AM


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northern fork to starboard and follow the channel markers. The channel is at least 5 feet deep all the way to the end at Route 9. As you sail or motor upriver, you’ll find many marinas, some with restaurants, to starboard­—but little wind once the river divides. The Captain’s Inn, noted for its seafood, has dockage, including overnight slips for transients, and a small outdoor bar, which morphed into a tiki bar a few summers ago. At Route 9, in the small town of Forked River, the river ends in a deep basin, wide enough to turn in. The Farked River State Marina and a small New Jersey State Marine Police Station are to port. Hidden behind the marina is a piece of classic New Jerseyana. The Forked River Diner is probably the only (sorta) sail-up diner in New Jersey. It is on the edge of Route 9, just a 3-minute walk outside the marina. The unpretentious structure is aqua and aluminum. The diner opens early and closes late, and offers the usual Jersey diner fare. For anyone who wants to relive their basic training days at nearby Fort Dix, the breakfast menu offers creamed chipped beef on toast. One early morning, in desperate need of coffee, I found German tourists photographing the diner. The patrons are a mix of boaters, transplanted retirees, and Pineys. The bay offers an unexpected abundance of wildlife for being close to heavily populated areas. Provisioning is easy, and there are boatyards with excellent repair facilities. For many, a day on the bay is their first sailing adventure. For the experienced sailor, there are enough places to explore and savor mixed with the challenges of running an inlet to keep it interesting. The Barnegat Bay serves as a gateway, where those new to sailing can get a sample of the cruising lifestyle in sheltered waters. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 111 10/28/20 11:15 AM


Gramps, Hannah, and Scallywag on Marquette Island

Fun Times With Scallywag in the Cheneaux By Hannah Koutz (age 13)

I have gone on sailing adventures with my grandparents since I was 8 years old. Now that I am 13, my first observation when I climbed aboard 6KNOTS this year was, “Everything shrunk!” How did I figure this out? I kept banging my head on everything! Our trip this year was sailing from Cheboygan County Marina in Cheboygan, Michigan, where 6KNOTS is docked in the summer, to the Les Cheneaux Islands, about 25 miles north on Lake Huron in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. We could only go a week as we had to get back for my big sister Emme’s high school graduation. She usually came with us, but she couldn’t this time because she had a job. That’s probably a good thing, as I see it, since there would have been no room for her with Gramps and Gram’s one-year-old German shepherd, Scallywag, taking up more than her fair share of my bunk!

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Our trip was delayed two days because of storms and rough seas. By Thursday, conditions were good to go. We ate a quick breakfast and departed by 8:30 a.m. We heard the Coast Guard icebreaker Mackinaw’s horn blow and noticed they had untied and were leaving the harbor behind us. On the radio, we heard they were performing practice maneuvers. After passing the 14 Lighthouse and the Poe Lighthouse, we avoided the reef when passing the south side of Bois Blanc Island, then turned 330 northwest. Once we turned, it got rough. We were going 45 degrees into 3-to-4-foot waves, which scared Scallywag, who jumped into the cabin and found a spot to hunker down below the cockpit. Actually, it was a little scary for me too, but I was reading, so that took my mind off the rough seas. Scallywag was below, hugged up to Gramp’s outboard dinghy motor. Gramps and Gram reefed the sails. We w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

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were going 7 knots in a 6 knots boat. To the west, we passed Goose Island and stayed away from the reef there, then rounded Coats Point on Marquette Island, where the water became still. We anchored off the southeast corner of the Seiberling Stewart Nature Preserve in 6 to 7 feet with a sand bottom. We secured the boat while Gramps prepared the dinghy. When Gramps was taking the dinghy outboard motor out from under, I noticed that one of the three prop blades looked chewed up, and I brought it to Gramps’s attention. I guess that while I was settling my nerves in the rough seas reading Harry Potter, Scallywag was below settling her nerves by chewing up Gramps’s prop! Gramps started calling it his 2.5-blade prop. He said, “It may be vibrating, but it still beats rowing!” Gram found a few small pieces of the prop, but the rest were whirling around in Scallywag’s stomach. Gramps says we may possibly see the rest of the prop pieces when we take Scallywag in for shore duty. We had lunch, and then I went swimming in the 62-degree cold water. Gram and Gramps said it was too cold for them, but they came out to watch me in their long pants and jackets while I was in my bikini. When I was getting in the water off the swim ladder, I slipped and cut my leg, but I still swam. Scallywag decided that she would come in and swim with me. I w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 113 10/28/20 11:15 AM


Hannah and Scallywag sleeping

Drying off after a swim in Hessel Bay had to coax her in, but she jumped off the back of the boat and surprised all of us. Gramps had to pull her back into the boat. I think it surprised her when she couldn’t touch the bottom. The next morning at breakfast, Gramps announced we would be taking a hike in the nature preserve. He told me I needed to wear long pants, a long-sleeved shirt, socks, and shoes. We all dinghied to shore, where we changed out of our Crocs and left them by the dinghy. We started off on the trail that led us to a beach on Lake Huron, where Scallywag swam and I skipped stones. Gramps thought we could follow the beach to the cove he had in mind for our hike’s destination, but that was impossible with the high water levels. So he said, “Follow me,” and we headed back into the woods. I noticed Gramps was marking his way through by scraping the ground with his boot. I said, “Hey, Gramps, where’s the trail?” He said, “Behind me!” We were getting all scratched up from the tree branches along the way, and there were spiderwebs and pine needles in my hair. After two and a half hours of me saying, “This sucks!”—and Gramps telling me, “No, it’s fun!”—Gramps finally said, “You know what, this does suck! Next time we’re going to follow the trail, I’m too old for this!” So we turned around, and Scallywag and I led the way out of that place by finding all of Gramps’s scrapes. We led us back to the nice

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beach, where we skipped more stones, and Scallywag swam again. I said to Gramps, “If we had brought our Crocs along, we could have followed the shore!” When we got back to the boat, Gramps pulled the anchor to motor over to Hessel Bay. Gramps handed me the binoculars and gave me the job of finding the buoys that marked the channel. Red on the right and green on the left— very important here as it is shallow, and there were lots of rocks. I did a good job of finding the buoys. Soon we were anchoring in Hessel Bay for our second night. We went swimming (except Gramps, who used his “sun shower”), and I washed all the stuff from the hike out of my hair. Then Gramps and I went fishing, and I caught a 19-inch pike, which was too small to keep. We had dinner, then went to bed. We were pooped! The next morning, Gramps and I went fishing again, but we only caught a goby, a small junk fish. Gramps pulled anchor, and we motored up the channel to Government Bay. On the way, we passed Dollar Island, where the people claim they bought it for a dollar. It was an interesting looking place that looked like Dr. Seuss might live there. We passed Cedarville too, where the buoys change, now the red buoys are on the left and the green buoys on the right. We pulled into Government Island and anchored for our last night. I swam off the back of the boat and did lots of cannonballs. Gramps rated my cannonballs 1 to 10. He w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m

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Did I do that?? said, “If you splash me, it’s a 10!” After a while, Gramps said I needed more height, so instead of jumping off the back of the boat, I became the first grandkid to jump off the side of the boat. I finally got a “10” because Gramps said he felt a drop behind his ear! After I finished swimming, we noticed there were a lot of seagulls flying around the boat. We discovered that the reason they were there was that the mayflies were hatching, and the seagulls were gobbling them up as they came out of the water. It was quite a show! Our last day was pretty uneventful, at least for Scallywag and me—we slept all the way to Mackinac Island. When I woke up, I found out that Gramps and Gram had woken up early, pulled anchor, and motorsailed to Mackinac Island. We arrived at 11:30 a.m. Gramps anchored, then dropped Gram and me off on the Island. He and Scallywag chilled on the boat while we went uptown. I told Gram that Mackinac Island looked like a nice place to live. No cars, just horses and bikes to ride, and lots of places to buy fudge! I got this super cool, tie-dyed Mackinac Island hoodie for a souvenir. We left Mackinac Island by 1 p.m. to sail back to Cheboygan, and I went right back to sleep. We got into our dock by 5 p.m., ate dinner, then went to sleep... Well, at least Gramps did. He kept Gram and me awake because he was snoring so loud! Of course, he denies it, but we know better. I guess he wore himself out on our fun trip to the Cheneaux. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 115 10/28/20 11:15 AM


A Hunky Dory Story By William Frost

Who would have thought that a global pandemic would lead us to our first sailboat? I’d been asked to travel from my home in Fairhope, Alabama, to Providence, Rhode Island, for work. When I reviewed Rhode Island’s COVID-19 travel guidelines and restrictions, one requirement was for a negative COVID19 test 72 hours prior to arrival into the state. I searched my local area for the RAPID test only to find them either booked up or not available. Casting a wider net, I finally found a clinic in Gulfport, Mississippi, where I could walk in for an appointment. I planned on a 2-hour wait at the clinic, but to my surprise, I was in and out in about 15 minutes. Since I had some extra time, I decided to visit the Gulfport Marina because 1) walking the docks stokes the dream of sailboat ownership and casting off the lines from said dock, and 2) to see if there were any boats for sale. I stopped by the harbormaster’s office where she was perched three stories up in what are affectionately called Katrina towers, built up after the hurricane of the same name wiped out the old marina. I garnered permission to walk the docks from the dockmaster, then inquired if she was tracking on any sailboats for sale, which she didn’t. Therefore, I started walking the five long and pristine concrete and wood piers on a scorching and humid July day in Southern Mississippi. I made it to Pier 2, having worked backward from 5, when I spotted a For Sale By Owner sign on the port bow lifeline of a Cape Dory 25D named Hunky Dory sitting in slip #9.

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Upon immediate viewing, I could tell the owner took wonderful care of this boat. I quickly pulled out my phone to see if I could find a listing anywhere on the popular “boats for sale” sites to get a look inside but didn’t find anything that matched. I snapped a picture, sent it to my better half, Michele, and said, “I think we found her! Thoughts?” Michele quickly replied, “That’s a good looking boat. Did you call the owner and see if you can see it today?” I had to get back to the house for work but said I’d call on the way back. I called the owner, Chris, who lived in Louisiana, and made arrangements to view Hunky Dory the following day. That evening, Michele and I reviewed Cape Dory reviews and discussion boards from owners, and all comments seemed to lead to owners truly loving their Dorys. Michele, our daughter, Tristan, our Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Hydro, and I left for Gulfport the following day, anxious to see in more detail what looked to be a really good old boat. We arrived back at Gulfport Marina’s Pier 2 and walked to slip #9 to find Chris putting Hunky Dory on full display for us—and Hunky didn’t disappoint. She was as beautiful on the inside as she was outside with a well-preserved interior finish, new sails as of this year, wellmaintained brightwork, and the original diesel, which Chris kept in great working condition. We chatted with him about what upgrades he had made, about places in the area he’d sailed and anchored overnight, and the quirks of the boat that only an owner for the last five years would know. Then Michele asked a simple question, “If you were to keep the boat, what would you fix or replace W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M

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THE RESORT AT

next?” Without hesitation, Chris mentioned two things he would fix on the next haul out, with one being a leak at the base of the deck stepped mast, and the other being the wind vane at the top of the mast (the latter being approximately $900 based on an estimate he had already received). We left the docks feeling positive not only about Hunky Dory being the boat for us, but also about Chris, who took great care of her, and we felt very trusting of his character as a human, a sailor, and sailboat owner. We left the marina and went across the street to Shaggy’s Restaurant and sat on the balcony overlooking the Mississippi Sound. Since we had our dog, Hydro, we needed an outdoor venue. Michele said, as we were looking over the menus, “We need to be out there,” with a head nod toward the distant horizon across the sound. And with that, we did a quick examination of what similar CD 25Ds cost and decided together what our offer should be. While eating dinner on the balcony of Shaggy’s, we texted Chris an offer, and to our excitement, he accepted straight away. Michele and I high-fived and relished the new title with which we would soon be labeled... “sailboat owners.” The following week, Chris arranged for a notary public and two witnesses to meet us in the parking lot of the Gulfport Marina, overlooking the waters of the Mississippi Sound. When we arrived on the day of purchase, we were all laden with gut-wrenching excitement. Chris, who put much love into Hunky Dory during his ownership, took the time to show us the critical systems of the boat. He walked us through using and maintaining the Yanmar diesel, the electronics, the water and tank systems, the batteries and bilge pump, and spare parts. In some cases, his tutoring came with a crackling voice of sadness in selling Hunky Dory. Chris was going through those life-changing stages, with a baby on the way, moving to a new city for work, and the desire to not let his prized boat be ignored and degrade in a slip like so many we’ve seen in marina slips we’ve toured. After Chris gave us the deep dive into the Hunky’s systems, we went out to the parking lot to meet the notary and witnesses he’d arranged to sign the bill of sale. The process took about 15 minutes, but when complete Michele and I were now “the owners” of Hunky Dory. It was with permanent grins, not seen because of our COVID-19 masks, that we celebrated our purchase and the milestone of taking the big step towards our sailing lives. Michele and I went back down the dock to see Hunky Dory once more before driving home. We were excited to start planning for the voyage, via the Gulf Coast Intracoastal Waterway, the following weekend, to bring Hunky Dory to her new home in Fairhope, Alabama. W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

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Attitude

By Darlis Varano Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal, according to Bob Bitchin, vagabond sailor, Harley dude, and publisher of the sailing magazine, this very sailing magazine, Latitudes & Attitudes. My husband, Captain Vince (I have to say captain because I’m talking about boats and sailing), is on the side of adventure, and I (first mate) am, well... Let me tell you the tale of our first leg on our cruise to Maine from Old Saybrook, Connecticut. “It’s beautiful, honest, Darlis. Honey, you’ll love it,” promised my husband, sailor extraordinaire. “An astronomical starlit sky, seas as smooth as glass, the vastness of the ocean, the peacefulness of it all.” Alright, I’ve been sailing for over 25 years. I’m a good first mate and a great galley slave—but the idea of an overnight sail 30 miles out to sea was not my idea of 24 hours well spent. I decided to go because we would be with a group of cruisers who had sailed the ocean route to Maine many times. Our crew would be our 28-year-old son and 29-year-old nephew, both strong and young and excellent sailors. Another benefit of this trip would

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be to prove to myself, and my husband, that I could and would overcome any silly (but real) fears that I may be (or am) harboring. A weather report of a possibility of a storm brewing had us shoving off at 6 a.m. from Onset, New York, at the mouth of the Cape Cod Canal. Leaving this early, all our cruise mates agreed, would have us beating the storm to Maine. No problem. “It was an admirable decision, Darlis,” I boldly said to myself, my stomach quivering and body shivering from both the cold misty morning air and the trepidation that continued to lurk inside me. The day passed beautifully. We had contact with our fellow cruisers, both visually and via check-ins on the radio every couple of hours. All of this helped diminish any feelings of abandonment we may have had. The canal was smooth, and we were all well fed and comfy. This wasn’t bad at all! The captain and I decided to take a nap from 10 p.m. to midnight; then, we would be refreshed to relieve the crew and take over our 2-hour watch. Before falling asleep, I watched as the moon peeked in and out of the porthole while the boat rolled with the rhythm of the sea. W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M

10/28/20 11:15 AM


I was awakened by the thump, thump, clunking sound of our son running through the cabin. “It’s ok, Mom. It’s just getting a little cold,” he said as he pulled on the bright yellow foul-weather gear and boots. I asked about flashes of light around us. “Heat lightning,” he said. “No problem.” No worries, I thought and laid down for a peaceful nap until watch time. We relieved Ed and David, fatigued and chilled, and they dashed to their bunks, not stopping even a second for the traditional grog and bread. Hmm. As soon as we were topside, we were engulfed in the blackest of nothingness. No stars. Not a flicker of light from any boat. No chatter on the radio. Nothing but pitch, coal-black nothingness—interrupted only by the bright yellow flashes of lightning appearing on the horizon! Monster bolts were coming out of the heavens and shooting into the sea! “Hey, not to worry, my bold one,” said Captain Vince, with an uneasiness in his voice I hadn’t heard before. “Those lightning bolts are far away, the storm is behind us, we’ll beat it…no problem” and “Oh, by the way, maybe you should wake up the crew.” Within the hour, the crew was in the cockpit, dressed in full foul-weather gear. The wind was howling and the sea foaming. The chill I had felt this morning returned with a vengeance, feeling now more like an ice cube running rampant up and down my spine. I bolted into the cabin, positioning myself on the floor to better brace myself, as we were at a 45-degree angle, sailing into the howling winds. I started to pray. I started with the Rosary, the Catholic Mantra, which never failed to calm my soul—and pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death, Amen—and pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death, Amen. Over and over again, I repeated this until I terrified myself more than Mother Nature’s wrath was doing! I switched over to the Act of Contrition, which I hoped would be my ticket into Heaven as I was sure we were heading to the part that says: Lost at Sea. On and on, we sloshed. I couldn’t even get food or drink to my weatherbeaten crew for the next 8 hours. We finally arrived at Tenants Harbor, Maine, at 11:00 a.m, 29 hours after leaving our safe harbor for that supposedly beautiful, peaceful overnight ocean sail. Captain Vince, Ed, and Dave (those hardy conquerors of the Big Bad Sea) wolfed down a huge breakfast of eggs, pancakes, and sausage, excitedly recounting the experiences of the great adventure. Me? I closed my eyes, grateful for a moment that we were safe at anchor, only to face the realization with alarm that ahead of us lay 2 to 3 weeks of sailing in the lobster pot-infested, foggy, rocky shores of Maine. Then, we would have to return to our home port the same way we got here! An adventure or an ordeal—do you know where I’m coming from??? W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

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Latitudes & Attitudes 119 10/28/20 11:15 AM


Book Review By Capt. Jim Cash

WATERBORNE By Marguerite Welch

At Latitudes & Attitudes, we love to review books about cruising life, written by those who have been out there living the life. To that end, Waterborne is the “mother-load” of all cruising adventures. Marguerite Welch guides us through the 14-year odyssey with her husband, Michael, touching the shores of 60 countries and covering 43,000 nautical miles in their cutter-rigged Shannon 38 they named Ithaca, after Odysseus’ home island in the Ionian Sea, “Never dreaming that someday we would actually go there.” It all starts with “The Dream,” right? We have all had that, but they, after 33 years of marriage, two sons, and two careers, she says, “Abandoned everything and everyone we loved, to explore the world in a small boat.” Now that is what cruising is all about. “There are lots of places in the world you can go in a plane, but for the ones you can’t, you need a sailboat and a wind vane steerer.” After all preparations were checked off, they left their home base in Annapolis, Maryland, USA, in October 1998 and headed south on the ICW (the Intracoastal Waterway). Though all systems were a go, “There is always something to fix or shop for on a boat,” she writes. This is a recurring theme throughout this and all other cruising books I have read. Like while fixing their heat exchanger in Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas, she shares, “Little did I realize how typical this pattern would become.” From the Bahamas, they headed into the Caribbean and got to continue their “boat mending” at Marina Hemingway in Havana. The reader gets to delight in their Cuban adventure during the time in which it was “politically incorrect” for US citizens to be there. Soon, due to needed boat parts, batteries this time, they were forced back to

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Florida before leaving the US for good. They continued their voyage, with the Yucatan Peninsula as their next destination, to follow The Route of the Maya, and Isla Mujeres (Island of Women) off the coast of Cancun, their harbor of choice. Throughout the book, at all the stops around the world, we are treated to a healthy dose of food imagery, like the dinner at Los Almendros, a restaurant specializing in Yucatan cuisine like poc chur, pollo peril, cochinita pibil, and longaniza served with achiote sauce. Their stay at Isla Mujeres lasted six months due to repairs, the rainy season, and so their dog Jack could recover from an injury. She describes their fellow sailors as extended family, but also as drifters and drunks that were “velcroed to the pier” due to the village being “almost too cheap and too congenial.” She describes the marina there affectionately as a “floating trailer park with a bunch of drunks.” After another six months of enjoying Guatemala, Colombia, and the San Blas Islands off Panama, the siren song of the Pacific was calling them. It was here they had to make the hard decision: it was just not fair to subject their shipmate, Jack (the family dog), to the long and arduous passages required of the Pacific Ocean, so off he went to family back in the States. They took the standard route, first to the Galapagos, then the Marquesas Islands; she references Melville’s novel Typee about his same voyage aboard a whaling ship in the 1840s. After describing doldrums and squalls, she proclaims, “Being at sea is like a love affair with a schizophrenic - mellow and romantic one moment, treacherous the next.” We are treated to their travel log of the South Pacific Islands, starting with exploring Nuku Hiva’s world’s third highest waterfall, then w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

10/27/20 4:59 PM


the romance of the French Polynesia paradises, through Fiji, and Vanuatu where we learn the wonders of kava (read “Getting stoned with Savages” by J. Maarten Troost). A trip among the Kiwis and then down under culminates with an anchorage in Darwin, Australia, with the whole of Malaysia and the Indian Ocean in front of them. Did you know that Botany Bay was named by Captain Cook after Joseph Banks, the botanist that had accompanied his voyage? Marguerite has done her research. The next chapters take the voyagers from Darwin, where they sail north and for us, into Part III of the book Buddha, Shiva, Mohammed, and Me. They sail up the Kumai River in Borneo, endure the busy Straits of Singapore, meander through Thailand while awaiting the installation of a new engine, hire a government-sanctioned guide for a tour of Tibet, and when back at the boat, are constantly varnishing and cleaning. To this point, they are now into their eighth year of cruising. With a new engine raring to go, they motor out of their anchorage in Thailand, effectively “closing the chapter of our Southeast Asia cruising” and venture into the Indian Ocean, with Sri Lanka as the next destination where Adam, the biblical one, was supposed to have left his footprint on Adams’s Peak. From there, it was up the Red Sea, referred to as the “Dreaded Red” due to sailing conditions, then Suez Canal and into the Mediterranean Sea; “From the Red to the Med ‘’ and into Part IV. By this time, they had been on the go for almost nine years, and homesickness was setting in, so they made frequent trips home. They set Marmaris, Turkey, as their home port for the next three years while they toured and had conversations (or should I say debates) that led to the thoughts of heading home. According to Marguerite, she was on the side of continuing the adventure. We follow them through the Greek islands, Aegean Sea, Croatia, Italy, Corsica (Napoleon’s birthplace), and, of course, their dream destination, Ithaca. I love the author’s definition of cruising when she writes: “We constantly move from place to place, glimpse lives being lived, observe characters as if in a play, read in their faces, gestures, and environment something about their lives, real or imagined, and move on again.” Now it’s 2011. They are moored in Gibraltar at the edge of the continent, looking west and planning for their Atlantic passage. Or, “Tracking Columbus,” as she writes. With their bow pointed toward the Caribbean, more gear failure forced a detour to Cape Verde islands for repairs. Finally heading out again—this time all’s well—they put the chartplotter on Carlisle Bay, Barbados, and 19 days later, they are dropping anchor again in the western hemisphere. Island hopping up the chain of Caribbean Islands, as they are “Heading to the Barn,” she writes, “Comparatively speaking, the rest of the trip was a piece of cake.” “Cruisers never say goodbye; we always say ‘see ya,’” she says, “because we usually do, sometime, somewhere along the World’s wetter paths and we believe we would.” Ithaca arrived safe and sound back in Annapolis on July 19, 2012, just shy of 14 years after their departure … Now that is what is called a cruise. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

_pg 120-121 Book Review 33 - MKC.indd 3

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Latitudes & Attitudes 121 10/27/20 4:59 PM


LIFE ABOARD

Pirates in Port Townsend

When we heard there was a family of pirates running around Port Townsend, Washington, we knew we had to check them out. The dread pirates turned out to be a lovely family of six who live aboard a 44-foot sailboat. Here is their story. We’ve been sailors for 28 years, and always spent a lot of time sailing. We have four kids: William (12), Christian (10), Grace (5), and Izzabelle (2). We have sailed all over the Pacific Northwest, and always had a house to return to. Our kids love sailing so much, that they didn’t want to go to the house anymore. They want to sail so that’s what we do. We used to sail a Catalina 30, but then had the two boys, it grew a little too small, and we bought a Pearson Countess 44 named Zayante. She’s a John Alden design, built in 1965 on the East Coast. She was moored in Port Townsend, so we stayed aboard for the summer getting to know the boat and sail her. At the end of the summer, we packed up and drove home. We were depressed, the kids were depressed, so we literally turned around the same day and drove back to Port Townsend to live aboard. We’ve been full-time liveaboards ever since. Our kids don’t want a house at the moment, they want our family to go on more adventures. Now we are prepping her to sail farther. We have Kevin the cat aboard. He’s the greatest furcovered shipmate one could have. And he’s a bit famous here in Port Townsend. He loves sailing and very clearly prefers it over the house life. We used to keep him as an inside cat when at dock (out of courtesy for those not so keen on our feline friends), and he had free roam while sailing and at anchor. We’d have people sail, dinghy, or paddleboard up to see him, loving seeing how happy he clearly is with no

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dock in sight. Last year when we sailed into Point Hudson for the winter, he was clearly depressed we’d reached the end of the sailing season. You could see it, he loves the wind and waves. So, we let him out. He proceeded to make friends with everybody. Literally everybody. He knows more people in town then we do (we know a lot). It’s extraordinary. We’ve met so many people because he’ll make friends with everyone. We love to sail, and plan to sail farther. We’ve been working hard to get the boat and us ready. The past year has been prepping the boat and us for the adventure. I am currently getting my Coast Guard Captains certification while working as a CTO / COO for a company out of Austin, Texas. We’re building the cruising kitty to take some time and sail, while making sure all is ready on the boat. We prefer to be at anchor. Most summers we spend 4 months at least at anchor, using solar power solely for work and living. A lot of the time anchored off of Port Townsend. This winter we will be berthed in Point Hudson. The summer is fun to sail up in the Pacific Northwest, and the winter is sometimes fun at the dock. Point Hudson is a great place to over winter. We feel like we are on vacation all winter exploring Port Townsend. The kids like being rowed to the school bus from anchor. Our favorite things are the freedom of sailing (if we don’t like the neighbors, we just move), the closeness of family, the connection to the world you feel (sun, seas, tides, etc.), living on just solar power (the low carbon footprint), and love of sailing. The kids love the adventure. New islands, new beaches, exploring the outside world. They love sailing. The close proximity to their parents and siblings. W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M

10/28/20 11:35 AM


Editor Robin Stout Aboard Mermaid

The least favorite by far, is being at the dock and working on the boat to get ready (it’s the same for all of us). We’ve sailed less this year due to the COVID virus. On the flip side, we’ve gotten more done to get the boat ready for bigger adventures. We both work remotely, and the work has increased, enabling us to save, repair, and upgrade a lot of the boat this year. We can live independently from what goes on in the world just by finding a cove, anchoring, and what we have onboard to live self sustaining. In spring we plan to haul out, do some last maintenance, then set sail for the San Juans. If the border is open, we’ll head north into Vancouver Island. Then we plan to sail south down the coast and then farther. Our advice to anyone thinking of living aboard a boat is: 1) Remove your own perceptions. Think positively. A lot of the negativity or positivity to living aboard is the perspective you bring to it. If you think it will be great, it will be, if you think it will not, it won’t. 2) Establish rules. For example, we have a rule to not occupy the walkway permanently. You move down the center walkway and then move to the side. It’s amazing how being able to freely walk makes a huge difference. 3) Adopt minimalism. The less stuff you have on board, the happier you will be. Fill life with experiences, not things. 4) Don’t try to make it a house. Break the habit of buying things and filling space. We find that quality of life is vastly improved by having the boat ready to sail, and then sailing her. 5) Get a dehumidifier. That’s it. Most people are amazed we can live with 4 kids and a cat on a 44-foot ketch and be happy. We’re known to be smiling. Port Townsends calls us the pirate family. We have a steamer trunk full of costumes and the kids are always dressing up when they play in town. Port Townsend is such a friendly town. Filled with great people. We sailed into town basically, and it will always be a home to return to. Great place for kids (and cats it turns out). W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M

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Latitudes & Attitudes 123 10/28/20 11:35 AM


Bubba Whartz BUBBA SAYS EXOTIC CHARTERS DEMAND SPECIAL CLIENTELE By Morgan Stinemetz The last place one might expect to encounter an informative discussion concerning people who attempt to acquire privilege and status by renting a floating palace would have been inside The Blue Moon Bar in Sarasota, Florida. The palace I’m referring to is a chartered yacht— power or sail—operated by a crew of accomplished professional mariners, including a captain, mate, engineer, and deckhands. In order to make the charter a memorable adventure, add galley staff, a superior chef, adequate housekeeping to clean cabins, serve food, and keep the interior of the yacht spotless. It would not be a multifaceted experience without specialists who fly helicopters, lead diving trips, monitor yoga sessions, teach dancing, sailing—the list is as varied as human imagination. Without the pros who know how to operate the vessel, oversee other diversions, and complete the charter successfully, the yacht could not leave the dock. It would be uninsurable. Not included in advertised charter fees is the amount the charterer directly spends on foodstuffs for all hands, alcohol in its many enticing forms, fuel to power the vessel and its ancillary craft—motor launches, jet skis, and the like—and a damage deposit. The captain is responsible for the yacht itself. The charterer would own any damage that he or his guests may directly cause. The Blue Moon Bar, as readers familiar with the recorded exploits of Captain Whartz already know, is a rather blue-collar drinking establishment often frequented by folks whom Central Casting might covet were Central Casting seeking to hire actors for a remake of The Wild One. However, it is also true that men with alligators—crocodiles, actually—on their polo shirts have been inside The Blue Moon upon occasion, though such occurrences are isolated. The chartering discussion launched one cold evening after a woman named Grace, who worked in a nearby boatyard, posed a question when she had stopped in for something warm to drink. The Blue Moon Bar, on those nasty glacial days that rattled Florida’s collective teeth at the start of 2018, offered a free Moon Shot made of hot apple cider and Mount Gay, with a pat of butter, sprinkled with cinnamon, floating on the top. The hot liquid slithered down one’s esophagus like a warm plumber’s snake. Grace had been in The Blue Moon from time to time. She had a New England accent and had been to a college for girls in Northampton, Massachusetts. One of the guys who worked with her in the boatyard said she originally

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came from Maine and had a family history of being around boats. “She don’t say much,” the man allowed. “But she listens real good. I remember once when she was talking about her college days and the courses she took when she said that she had graduated summa cum laude, but I have no idea what that means.” Captain Whartz set the issue straight immediately. “It means she was on social probation for making too much noise when she got her degree,” he offered, adding, “That’s what the ‘loudly’ part stands for.” So, on the evening in question, Grace, possibly encouraged by a couple of Moon Shots, registered a gritty, sooty opinion about lavish yacht charters, generally. The customers on the boats were usually badly overweight, loud, and wore too much jewelry, she growled. Chartering was okay, she maintained. In her own mind she had already constructed a personal template for what a successful charter might entail when it came to her needs. “Basically, it starts with a perfect vessel. Size is not as important as quality. Were I chartering, I’d select a Hinkley, about 55 feet, with a couple of cabins for guests and separate quarters, aft, for crew. A couple—maybe the boat’s owners— would work out best as crew. The Hinkley would have air conditioning,” Grace murmured. “Anything else?” injected Captain Whartz. “A centerboard,” Grace replied. “Tropical islands with no people and boundless sandy beaches are easier to reach with a shallow-draft boat.” “You could do that with a jet ski,” Whartz pointed out. “A sailboat the size of the Hinkley I’m envisioning would not have a jet ski.” “There’s where you are missing out on the real thrills of chartering,” Bubba countered. “And by that you mean…?” “I am saying chartering a yacht means that the person who books the yacht determines how many and how varied the extras associated with the charter will be. If you’ve never had a ride in a helicopter, and have the right platform, you can add a chopper to the package. Among the ‘toys’ that you can get are jet skis, power launches, water skiing boats, boats that you could hook a marlin from, small submarines, or launches for SCUBA diving. On the main yacht, you can exercise in an onboard gym or dance to disco in a special room with a rotating ball that reflects light beams off its mirrored surface—and though disco lasted but a decade, this could be a perfect chance to experience look-at-me superficiality first hand. If not up for more activity, then relax in a theater where you can watch all your favorite TV shows and sports events just like you’d see back home, so you don’t miss anything. Bubba, in passing, mentioned that there are also charters from which you might be able to shoot wild birds right out of the sky if you’re a good enough shot. This stuff happens way offshore, Whartz indicated, and not in any country’s territorial waters. Authorities never knew about it. “The bigger, more complete charters have onboard swimming pools, Jacuzzis, and saunas, so you never w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

10/28/20 11:42 AM


have to get in saltwater and run the risk stepping on a sea urchin or stingray,” Bubba explained to Grace. Grace looked a bit stunned by the mudslide of information she was getting from Captain Whartz. Her facial expression reminded one of a deer-in-the-headlights appearance. Aircraft, submersibles, runabouts, and jet skis? Weren’t the operators of those jet skis occasionally shot right off their craft in uncivilized countries?, she must have wondered. Bubba, however, was on a roll. He spoke warmly of a charter yacht’s professional staff that all worked in signature uniforms. The bigger the yacht and the more numerous the ancillary diversions— gourmet food, special sections of the craft for watching TV or movies the customers had seen before, access to exotic marinas only high echelon charter yachts were privileged to enter, flying machines that come with professional crews to operate and maintain them, professional instructors in ballroom dancing or yoga or aerobics or disco or SCUBA or water skiing—that always came along with the larger charter investment. In the yacht chartering biz, economy of scale apparently doesn’t exist. Grace asked Bubba about that very point, and Captain Whartz immediately set the record straight. “If a would-be charter yacht client asks about economy of scale, the industry’s bookers have a word for the scenario. They call the event a non-starter charter. When calls come in looking for a cheaper way to book a luxury yacht, the calls are ostensibly transferred to a specialist. However, the specialist never comes on the line. There is no specialist. Just a bottomless, black hole of disinterested neglect. Budget luxury yacht trips don’t exist,” Bubba explained. “However, people who enquire about charters that have never been done by anyone—the kind that might get a YouTube video—are the ones the charter industry covets. These people are looking for experiences they can brag about to their friends at a show and tell for rich folks. Such exploits are fearfully expensive—put-your-kidthrough-four-years-of-Harvard expensive—and I’m just referring to the commission the point person in the charter business who arranges the vessel’s charter gets.” Grace showed shock. “That’s obscene,” she gasped. “Well,” Bubba countered, “think about it. Some folks define life its own self by how much money you can spend on meaningless things. Studio 54, the disco club in New York City, operated successfully on that one principle. The 5-star level of luxury is available to anyone packing enough money. If you have the bucks, you can be a player until you run out of bucks. Luxury is repeatable within the framework of life when you have the price of admission.” “Do you consider that fair, ethically correct?” Grace asked. “I’m not qualified to make that assessment,” replied Bubba. “I’ve never gotten together enough money for the ticket to be on the inside looking out.” Doobie interjected a comment and question. “Bubba, you seem to be off your game a bit—not the same guy we’re accustomed to. You feel okay?” Just before he fainted, Bubba averred, “I feel fine.” w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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10/27/20 4:18 PM


the Italian Riviera Cruising The By Chuck Ritenour

Sailing into any port for the first time can be a daunting task. You know, there are no water signs or directional signs or anything else. Small ports are easy, but large ports like Genoa can be very confusing. When we rounded the breakwater into Genoa, I called port control to inform them that SoulMates entered the bay. Then I contacted Marina Antico for directions to our slip. They answered and gave directions, but let’s just say that, at times, I am not the sharpest knife in the drawer, so it took a couple more calls for me to find the marina.

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Genoa is an interesting city with new and old intermingled, and some parts the guidebooks indicated were best avoided at night. Anyone who knows history knows it is supposedly where Chris Columbus came from—and sure enough, we found a very small Columbus house that took a while to find but was not open. Genoa was also a republic for over 700 years and the major power in the Mediterranean and the financial center for the Mediterranean and later Italy. While we wandered around the narrow streets and in and out of office buildings, we were amazed by the architecture, the paintings in entrances, and museums. But we encountered the most extraordinary art while visiting the major churches. However, the best part of wandering the

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course, the Museum of the Shroud. When we went to see the shroud, it was not on display, though a replica was, along with an explanation of it, and a replica of the crown of thorns. Take a look at the picture, and you’ll see that it’s not how most imagine. A slightly longer train ride took us to Milan, the fashion capital of Italy, if not the world. The most spectacular part of Milan, of course, is the cathedral, Duomo de Milano. It is enormous and perhaps the most beautiful in the world. Construction of the church commenced in 1368 and was completed in 1965. The church has 135 spires topped with figures of famous people from Milan and the Bible. After visiting the cathedral, we wandered around town and found a science museum with a whole wing dedicated to Da Vinci. One room had scale working models of several of his inventions, many of which he only put on paper. It is really difficult to understand the genius of Da Vinci. Nearby was a famous Last Supper painting—I got a picture of something when we kinda walked around a roped-off area. Like with most places, we could have spent a long time in Genoa. In fact, I said I would not mind wintering over there. But it was time to move on to San Remo, the beginning of the Italian Riviera. San Remo is a lovely small town that is a great place to lay by the sea and vacation.

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We got there on market day, so we were able to get farm-fresh food. On our walk around town to the Casinó di Sanremo, we saw a small but beautiful Russian Orthodox Church. Why was there a Russian church in Italy? Because the Czar family and relatives vacationed there! One evening while looking at the charts, I suddenly got excited. Patty could only ask, “Now what?” I started making phone calls on an Italian phone and soon told Patty we were going to see James Bond. Patty asked, “What?” So, I told her, “Monaco.” Of course, the first question was whether we afford it. During all of those phone calls, I had found Cap-d’Ail Marina, which was running a special, three days for the price of two, and the rates were not out of line with what we were paying in Italy. As we rounded the breakwater into Port de Cap d’Ail, I saw megayachts could only say, “Wow.” SoulMates was met by a tender and soon tied up nicely to the dock. We were pleasantly surprised when everyone treated us not as a 40-foot wandering sailboat but as a megayacht. Unfortunately, the marina was not in Monaco. But a short walk out the gate and across the street brought you into Monaco. Close enough. The first thing we learned about Monaco is that it was built on the side of a hill, meaning w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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it goes straight up and down. The lady at the marina desk, Margaux, said it is easy to get around once you learn where the elevators and escalators are. Yes, they have outdoor escalators and elevators. The escalators only go up, not down; the elevators go both ways, are all over, and have stops at each street on the way up. Of course, it was not easy for newbies to navigate the various elevators and escalators, so we ended up doing a lot of uphill walking. But what a great little city-state. One evening, we dressed up the visit, perhaps, the most famous part of Monaco: The Casino de Monte-Carlo. I actually put on long pants, a nice shirt, and socks for this. Patty dressed up but wore flip-flops. There are two parts of the casino. The first is the outer part where anyone decently dressed can come in and play the slots. The inner part requires you to pass a dress code inspection by a couple of gatekeepers, and a ticket for about 17 euros. Once inside, you can exchange the ticket for chips, a drink, or dinner. I wanted to see the inner part, so I went up to a couple of very friendly guys who told me I could go in if I got a ticket, but Patty could not with the flip flops. So, I paid the 17 euros and went in and saw the restaurant . In my nicest manner, I returned to the guys to see if Patty could come in just w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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to eat dinner. Surprisingly, they said Patty could come in for dinner—but no gambling, just to the restaurant. So, Patty came in, but then we learned the restaurant was not open. There was a guy walking around who looked like he was in charge, so I approached him and explained the situation. He was very nice and invited us to have a seat and enjoy a drink. It was interesting to watch the gambling. Dinner was on the terrace, and though I kept looking, I could not find James Bond. But what a great experience! Oh, as for the gambling. I thought I might play one or two hands of blackjack, so I walked to the table and saw the minimum bet was 25 euro. Nope! That was not going to happen. People have been great everywhere we have gone, and Cap-d’Ail was no exception. As we all know, I talk to everyone, and it was no exception here. I talked a lot with the megayachts’ crews, many of whom were impressed with SoulMates’ journey, especially the Black Sea. When the talk turned to where we were headed, the yacht crews gave us great insight. We already knew the marinas along the French Riviera would be expensive, and anchorage limited for a small boat. But the yacht crews advised us to skip them all. They said they were not only expensive, but the cities were not that

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Cruising

the

Italian Riviera

great or even a lot to see; they were simply places to be seen and checked off a list. Since the rates were reasonable, we decided to spend a couple of extra days here and took a bus to Nice. It only took one glance around to realize there was not a lot to see. The “famous beach” was present, with the rest of the city full of unique shops and restaurants everywhere. It does have the largest Russian Orthodox Church outside of Russia. The outside of the church was traditional, but the inside was, shall we say, a bit unorthodox and very modern. The megayacht crews in Monaco suggested Antibes as a great place to stop with reasonable prices. So, SoulMates headed out to Antibes. For those who watch “Below Deck – Med,” it’s where they tie up their boat; it was probably there when SoulMates was. But Antibes is also the second-largest port in the Med. As SoulMates approached, there were two 400-foot yachts anchored offshore. As I began to make the approach to the harbor entrance, I was told to stand off while a megayacht with its own helicopter came out. Antibes is a great little town on the French Riviera. The old city is unique, but its shining jewel is the Picasso Museum. Picasso spent a lot of time in Antibes, and he left behind many of his works when he left. Many people think of Picasso as a painter, but he created so much more, like ceramics, furniture, and sculptures, among other things. A very short train ride to the west is Cannes. It was exactly what you expect: a huge beach with a long walk around it, famous hotels with expensive cars parked in front, blocked off beach areas you can enter for 25 euros (or more!), expensive restaurants, high-end shops, and the red carpet. I got the chance to walk the red carpet, but the paparazzi must not have gotten the memo that I was going to be there. Oh, you’re wondering if we saw anyone famous? We have no idea, but we also don’t really care. I bet that says it all. One day in Cannes is enough unless you want to lie on the beach and shop, but make sure you bring lots of money.

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The famous Saint-Tropez was just a bit of a bus ride away. We left very early in the morning and arrived just in time to enjoy the most expensive breakfast we have ever eaten. The coffee was delicious—the best in Europe—and we got an entire pot! The view of the harbor was outstanding and provided great entertainment as one megayacht went out and one came in. We found two small beaches, then we were told the famous beach was 5 miles outside of town. A cab ride to see a beach was not going to happen, even if it was topless. During a much less expensive lunch, I started to talk to a couple of boat brokers next to us and asked them about the Saint-Tropez hype. They laughed and confessed that they didn’t like it either. To them, Saint-Tropez is only a place for wannabes, has-beens, and those seeking to see the famous. Patty put it best when she said, “Been here, done this, but never again.” Now, for a history question. How many of you knew there was a second invasion of France on August 15, 1944 at St. Raphael? Led by the 36th Division from Texas, the invasion was so successful that the force was advancing 100 miles a day. The marina staff told us that President Macron would be at a little town where the invasion occurred, so we took a bus down and found all sorts of WWII stuff and people dressed up as 36th division members. A long wait and lots of French waiting on Macron. Finally, an announcement was made that Macon would not be there. He had only attended a private invitation-only commemoration. When the French heard the news, they were not pleased. As one said to me, “We elected a president who thinks he is king.” w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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SoulMates had had enough of the glitz and glamour, so we set sail east and were soon heading into Toulon. The superyachts crews had warned us that if we stopped in Marseilles, it should be for a short time and that we shouldn’t leave the boat there for inland travel. They instead suggested Toulon, so Toulon it was. Toulon is a relatively small town that is home to the French Naval fleet. There are several marinas, and I finally found one that would take us. Soon SoulMates was tied up, and we were sitting in a dockside café enjoying a Sunday morning Bloody Mary. Toulon was an excellent place for SoulMates to sleep while the crew headed inland to see a bit of France. To us cruising is much more than sailing from port to port and seeing the sights ashore. To truly experience and learn, you need to get away from the coast and go inland, like we have so many times before. Can you really see France in a few days? Nope! But you can get some insight. After a bit of research, and using common sense, we made a list of things we wanted to see: Paris, Normandy, Les Herbiers (where SoulMates) was born, Mont SaintMichel—and, as with all explorers, seeing, learning, experiencing, tasting, and finding the unexpected. Isn’t that what cruising is all about? w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m

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Latitudes & Attitudes 133 10/28/20 11:21 AM


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EscAPINg Bertha By Mandi Sorg

Our untimely arrival to the Bahamas at the brink of the pandemic left us anchored and waiting in a Grand Bahama waterway. Having to put an abrupt end to our long-awaited Caribbean sailing adventure was gut-wrenchingly painful, but we knew we couldn’t continue to wait for better news. Our propane was running low, we weren’t allowed onshore, and the limitations set on cruisers were looking more and more bleak—and understandably so. We picked up anchor and sailed back to the States, where we would begin our travels north to the Chesapeake Bay. After a beautiful overnight sail, we made a quick stop in Cape Canaveral, Florida, before sailing north along the Florida coast. Three days was all it would take to reach Beaufort, North Carolina, our first planned stop 435 nautical miles away—a nice halfway point to the Bay. We had a strong and steady east wind with southeast waves; both a little higher than anticipated, but still expected to settle down. We were cruising fast,

An underwater view of their boat while anchored in Port Lucaya, waiting for an update to the COVID-19 orders

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Escaping Bertha and with full sails. It was a good thing too, considering the expected storms arriving in the area that afternoon. The seas never did settle throughout the day, though. Instead, they turned wishywashy as the sun set, giving us just enough of a toss to make going below deck difficult. I even began taking bathroom breaks over the stern to avoid going down, giving us both a few good laughs. But it was the evening sail that began the uneasy mood of the passage. We hadn’t had appetites throughout the day, we continued to feel the major disappointment in having left the Caribbean, and now our wind and AIS instrument readings had suddenly quit working. We were also still fairly new to overnight sails, and there’s something about cloudy nights with hardly any slice of moon that can leave you feeling edgy. By morning, we were 100 nautical miles offshore—and I was finally in the midst of my first deep sleep of the passage—when Brian startled me awake. “What was our best bailout spot? I think we need to get to shore,” he told me. I’m shocked—am I dreaming? I groggily looked around. The seas seemed higher, the waves haphazardly moving, and large, puffy gray cumulus clouds were scattered in all directions. “Charleston,” I replied firmly. “Why, what’s happened?” I ask, even though I could clearly see. Brian told me the wind had shifted from east to north, and the height of the waves had been increasing quickly. He handed me the iPad to show me the offshore weather data he had downloaded; nothing but steep waves and high winds—not at all what had been predicted just 24 hours before, making us trust this prediction even less. “I don’t have a good feeling. I really think we should head for a port, now!” And with that, we changed our course and began our 14-hour beeline for the harbor in Charleston, South Carolina. The stark and obvious isolation you experience out on the ocean can be either the most exhilarating and magical sense of freedom you will ever feel or the loneliest; your predicament changes everything. We hadn’t seen any other ships on the water the entire day, making our situation feel like the Twilight Zone. The waves and wind kept up to what was promised. By the afternoon, a storm quickly came upon us about 5 miles wide. Huge, low-hanging black clouds, with a sheet of dark gray rain in the distance.

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Anchored cruise ships around Grand Bahama island, unable to go ashore

A Charleston sailboat, sailing on a rainy day in the harbor as a tanker passes

Mandi and Brian after hiking Horse Island after finally making it to Beaufort, North Carolina

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Escaping Bertha We had no choice but to barrel through, our The rising sun while entering skin stinging with each drop of the downpour. the Atlantic Ocean Our headsail in, and our main barely out, we were heeling far over from the wind and flying. Occasionally, a wave would rush over the bow and through the cockpit like I had never seen. Our cabin below began to reek of diesel fuel, and Brian tracked the odor to the source: the diesel tank underneath our bed. With his body crunched and rocking under the mattress with each heel and wave, he found that diesel had begun to seep through one of the gaskets. We did what we could and left the rest for better weather. Brian, becoming ill from lack of food and water (and coffee)—and no doubt by having his head buried in diesel fumes—slept on deck while I watched the helm throughout the evening and early morning. I had never sailed through waves like A view of the storm through a this before—they were at least 10 feet high. Our boat hatch from below deck was rolling through them beautifully! We were on the perfect angle for them, and the intervals were just what the boat needed to not have slamming bow dives. That evening sail felt surreal. Another night thick with clouds and no moon in sight. The red and green bow lights reflecting off the waves were all I had to see. With the rain now gone, I would periodically stick my head out past the arch enclosure and close my eyes—a feeling as though I were almost magically flying over the waves myself. We arrived at Charleston’s port around 3a.m., right on time. Brian, now up, was at the helm and ready as ever to get us somewhere safe. Large cargo ships with their sparkling lights were circled around the channel, waiting for their time to enter. Treacherous beam waves were slapping our hull and burying our port and starboard rails in the water repeatedly. Clipped in and holding on tight, we were being thrown back and forth, back and forth. All I could think of was not falling out, and what a mess it was going to be below. This didn’t let up until we were past the jetties—and it took us hours to get through the channel. Behind us, the sun was rising—and with its light giving way to the blackest sky I have ever seen. Brian and I looked at each other, grateful for bailing when we did. We called a marina in the harbor, which had 24-hour staff, to request a slip. They let us tie up on their outer dock until they could make an assignment. Our bodies and minds were exhausted, but our cabins below held up rather well, considering. We had a quick bite to What we had sailed through was the formation of Tropical eat before slumping ourselves in bed, which thankfully Storm Bertha. I looked out the port window, saw nothing no longer reeked of diesel, and stayed there for an entire but rain, and turned to Brian; “It’s a tropical storm!” Bertha has been recorded as a very fastday. We woke up the following morning, still somewhat shaken, but much more rested. I grabbed my cell phone developing tropical storm—and very short-lived, as she to check the time, 9:43 a.m., but to my shock saw a was downgraded to a depression status that evening. It Tropical Storm warning, which was currently in effect. turns out those “seemingly” harmless storms that were

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Mandi and Brian standing by the harbor after taking their electric scooters for a spin down some trails

lingering around South Florida followed us up the coast to form Bertha. We sat in awe that day, inside the comfort of our dry and level cabin, as the strong winds and inches of rain fell around our safely-docked home. It was then we understood just how important our decision had been: for recognizing how much the conditions had changed, observing that something wasn’t right, and for trusting our gut instincts. But in a way, we were grateful. It could have been a lot worse. We spent some time in Charleston after the storm, putting our electric scooters to good use by exploring the city and its neighboring beaches and trails.

Mandi and Brian sailing up the coast of Florida

We never did have the Bay on our radar for sailing. Our fantasy routes had always had us diving in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean and clinking our beers in a toast as we hopped the sand-laden islands of the Pacific. And although the Bay will undoubtedly offer jellyfish-riddled waters, we know it will also bring us more opportunities and teachable lessons, much like this storm taught us, that we may have never had otherwise—things that will make us better and stronger sailors. And with that perspective, we were leaving the channel, ready for the ocean again, and ready for the Chesapeake Bay. But this time, we had nothing but blue skies ahead of us.

Mandi feeding stale bread to the birds in Grand Bahama

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d a H e v ’ d l u o h S We t s a f k a Bre

By Jennifer Burns

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My fiance, RJ, and I were underway on our 32-foot Westsail, Sumna. It was 10 a.m. The winds were between 10 and 15 knots out of the southsoutheast, the sun was shining, and we were quickly sailing beneath the highway bridge and railroad bridge on the Thames River located in New London, Connecticut. Our intentions were to do some long tacks out in Long Island Sound and Fishers Island Sound, and then make our way to our heavy-weather mooring in Niantic. There was nothing too significant during our four hours of traversing both sounds. RJ and I took turns at the helm. My confidence in sailing continued to increase each time RJ and I would experiment with the running rigging, the amount of main sail, raising and lowering the staysail in combination with the jib, and just getting a feel for Sumna’s hull gliding through the water and reacting to our adjustments.

Sumna hard aground. All things considered, they shoulda had breakfast!

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It must be noted that RJ and I were somewhat slowly letting go of our hesitations to take risks on and with Sumna. In many ways, Sumna was and continues to be our child together. We had recently finished up a 17-month overhaul on her and had relaunched her in May earlier that year. We were both so attached. That 17 months was filled with lots of hard work that we both did ourselves. It involved take-out food or bagged dinners, and a share of arguments and frustrations. And there were lots of beers late in the evenings after our obligatory six or more hours of work on Sumna to celebrate our incremental victories or just as release. Mind you, RJ and I were both working full time. We let our friends and families know that we would be committed to this project in order to make our dreams of sailing come to fruition. So yes, we were and still are attached to this vessel. She was now a part of us as individuals and as a couple moving through this world. We had been learning every square inch of her.

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We Should’ve Had Breakfast On this day, we both couldn’t help but notice how very much alive Sumna felt coming up and over the small chop, responding to each little tweak of the sails or slight movement of the tiller to port or starboard. I found myself getting lost in the rhythms of it all—the movement of the boat, the seagulls calling out overhead, the swish of water against the hull. Her sails were aglow in the sunlight. We had begun to turn slightly northwest to aim towards the Millstone stack in Waterford and take Two Tree Channel into Niantic Bay. I was at the helm, Sumna slightly heeled to port on the starboard tack, and RJ and I were both grinning like children. We were moving along at 4.5 to 6 knots. Around 1430, we had dropped our sails, transited through both the Nan Railroad Bridge and 156 Highway Bridge, and picked up our mooring in the Niantic River. After spending the evening with friends swapping stories over cocktails; RJ and I tucked ourselves snuggly into the forward berth. I envisioned the romantic and leisurely breakfast I would make for us in the morning, hopefully followed by a refreshing swim. I could smell the pancakes on the stovetop and the coffee steaming in my mind. “Ahh, our life on the water and being in love,” I rolled over onto my side, next to RJ’s warm body and let myself drift off to sleep in rhythm to the gentle rocking of our boat. 0800. RJ was already up and on deck. I could hear his footsteps moving forward, aft and then forward again. The sun shone in through the forward hatch, and I rose to get dressed and start our breakfast. Oh, how I need breakfast and that first cup of coffee! I was really looking forward to the taste and smell of the warm comforting liquid. I grabbed a match, flipped on the gas and lit the stove. I could already taste the bitter strength of the coffee on my tongue. Just then RJ turned the engine over and called down, “We’re leaving to make the tide.” “Now?” I asked. “Yep. Now. Come on up and help with the mooring.” “All right,” I answered mentally grumbling. “No breakfast?” I asked. “We can eat underway.” I shut off the stove, put the ingredients away, and climbed up through the

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companionway. I was not happy, but I knew once I cast off our mooring pendant I could begin my morning breakfast ritual. I wasn’t even up on deck when I heard the splash of the pendant. Hey, that was my job, I thought. RJ pointed us towards the channel, and I was fuming about breakfast. I knew that once we were underway, he would go below, and I would have to figure it all out on deck. “RJ, there’s a powerboat getting ready to overtake us on our port side.” We were on the green side of the channel. “RJ, that powerboat is really getting close.” Typically, when RJ receives any situational information from me it could be half-mile out, and he will usually respond back to me with, “Jen, it’s fine,” or “It’s not a worry,” or “We have time.” But this was not the case in our current situation. In reality, what I was saying was pertinent and timely in contrast to many of our previous experiences. In this case, RJ reacted just like he would have in the past. “It’s fine,” RJ stated, staying just a meter or so from the green side of the very narrow channel and looking back towards the oncoming powerboat. RJ maintained his course and speed. We both were dreadfully aware that outside the channel were mudflats, and that the tide was continuing to ebb. “But…” “Oh, shit!” RJ exclaimed as the 30-foot, dark blue powerboat was set dangerously close to our port side and forced us out of the channel. RJ had no choice but to steer us right past the line of the channel. Both of us flash forward to what will soon be our future—a grounding in the mudflats. The dark hull squeezed past our port side, rocking us back and forth in its wake, our fathometer reads negative (that’s never happened before), and we are aground just less than a mile from our mooring. RJ shouted out some more expletives with the wave of his hand not on the tiller. It was apparent that whoever was at the helm of this boat had no idea what had occurred, nor did we see anyone at the helm. RJ quickly released the main sheet, and our boom swung out over our port side. “Harner,” he yelled. “Climb out on the boom.”

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We Should’ve Had Breakfast

“Got it!” I knew what he was getting at, so I shimmied out onto the boom with my legs wrapped around it. I attempted moving my body up and down, like being upon one of those playground horses with the single spring, but neither my body weight nor my momentum were enough to budge Sumna’s hull in the thick muck of the flats. “This doesn’t seem to be working,” I shouted out to RJ with a chuckle under my breath. Yes, our situation was dire. However, I couldn’t help but see the humor in it. Here I was—all of five feet and half an inch tall and 125 pounds—attempting to move our boat’s 11 tons. Hysterical! In the meantime, RJ was up forward rigging up our 35-pound CQR so that he could anchor Sumna by carrying out a length of chain with our dinghy. “Harner,” RJ called this time. “Please go below and get our Danforth.” I immediately climbed below to get the 25-pound anchor. I went forward to the v-berth area, opened the starboard cabinet, and pulled out everything blocking the way of the anchor. Then I opened up the forward hatch, and called up to RJ. “Burns, here it is,” I shouted, lifting the anchor over my head and stretched upward to hand it to RJ. “Well done, Harner!” I smiled and felt my adrenaline kick in. I grabbed a length of line and climbed up through the hatch to see what I could do to help get RJ set up to anchor us. Our friends in their sailboat had also anchored, but inside the channel, not wanting to be in the same predicament. It was then that I noticed that we were grounded between green cans 21 and 21A. Andy motored over in his dinghy to see what he could do to help, and two other boats attempted to pull us out of the mud. The first was a 20-foot Whaler, but there just wasn’t enough horsepower to do it. The next was a yellow-hulled sailboat slightly bigger than Sumna; however, with all of the pulling the full keel just sunk deeper into the mud. Andy circled his dinghy towards the bow, RJ lowered himself into our dinghy, and I lowered the CQR down to RJ. RJ rowed, Andy motored, and I tended the chain. Once they were in position, RJ dropped the anchor. “Start cranking in on the windlass.” I placed the metal lever into the windlass and began to push and pull the lever. We all hoped that the anchor would set and grab. RJ then rowed back and climbed up onto Sumna. He began to push and pull on the windlass’s lever. Sumna budged a little, but only for a few feet before settling back into the mud. It was decided: we just needed to hold Sumna upright and in place until the next flood tide. With Andy’s help, we placed an anchor off of our port side using a section of line and our mainsail halyard. RJ climbed up the mast halfway, and we set another anchor off our starboard side using multiple

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lines tied together. Sumna held her upright position for five hours. Did I mention that we had recently painted Sumna’s bottom with bright green bottom paint? This was hardly discreet, and here we were all dried out right outside a very busy channel. During these five hours RJ and I ate breakfast. Finally! I took a break by rowing around in the dinghy. We both discussed our situation and what else we might be able to do. We checked the timing of the tides, and it looked like the flood would begin somewhere around 8:00 p.m. Sumna stayed upright until the south wind picked up, our starboard anchor dragged, and we finally heeled over onto our port side. Lunch was in order, we decided, as the water

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continued to empty out of the river, leaving us high and dry. As we ate, dark clouds were visible in the distance. RJ and I listened to impending small craft warnings over the VHF. We came to the conclusion that unless we wanted to wait it out, we should call Sea Tow. Our attention shifted from the radio to the same dark blue powerboat from hours earlier now returning on the red side of the channel in our direction. This time we could see someone at the helm and several couples on the back deck. They all had cocktails in hand and waved. As we watched them pass, we both noticed the name of the boat, written in gold on their transom— Surprise. We both laughed. RJ called Sea Tow. Andy and his girlfriend pulled up anchor and began their sail back to the Thames River, knowing we’d sort it out. RJ and I worked to pull up the two side anchors and ready the bow anchor to be pulled up once Sea Tow arrived. We waited less than half an hour when Tim pulled alongside Sumna in the red Sea Tow boat. He and RJ rigged up a bridle for the bow, we pulled up the anchor, and Tim conducted the tow of Sumna out of the mudflats. It took multiple tries because the mud had such strong suction upon the hull. After several attempts, we were free from the mud. We both felt a sense of elation and relief. I unhooked the bridle, Tim reeled in the section of his line, and both of us were motoring through the bridges. Once we cleared the bridges, I took the helm, Tim pulled along our port side, and RJ settled up with him. We exchanged pleasantries and thank yous, then parted ways. We didn’t even raise sails. We motored back towards the Thames River and our mooring at the Coast Guard Academy. “So, what did we learn from this Harner?” RJ questioned. “Do you have any advice?” “We should’ve had breakfast.” I stated before I began to laugh. “Surprise was not on our side, that’s for sure. And they really had no idea that they caused us to go out of the channel.” “No, they were oblivious,” I added. We both just continued to laugh and comment about how as cruisers a grounding was bound to happen. We just didn’t think that it would have happened so soon and in our home waters. It was less than three weeks out from our wedding, and we both figured if we could still be laughing and speaking to one another after our grounding, we were in a good place.

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By Suzy Carmody, s/v Distant Drummer

Cruising Baja

The first of November is officially the end of the hurricane season and the time of year when cruising boats start leaving for, as they say, “A winter of fun in the sun down Mexico way.� Having spent the summer and autumn on a leisurely passage down the coast of California on board Distant Drummer, our Liberty 458 sloop, we were in San Diego and ready to go south. We planned to cruise for a few months in Mexico before hopping along the Central American coast to Costa Rica and Panama, where we could spend the summer cruising safely below the hurricane belt.

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The west coast of Baja California is rough and rugged, an out-ofthe-way corner of Mexico that only yachtistas, fishermen, and four-wheel drive explorers get to visit. Unlike the east coast, where tourist development has restyled the cities to

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accommodate gringo tastes, there are no towns and few roads along the Pacific seaboard. Many cruisers choose to take the fastest route south, stopping at Turtle Bay and BahĂ­a Santa Maria before pushing on for a last run down to Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the peninsula.

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Cruising Baja

However, there are a number of other anchorages where shelter can be found from the relentless Pacific swell. These unspoilt coves with their barren, rocky landscape, relentless blue sky, and simple fishing villages are very picturesque and worth taking the time to explore. San Diego to Turtle Bay Ensenada lies 70 nautical miles south of San Diego and is the first port of entry on Mexico’s west coast. It was early November and the days were getting shorter, so we planned to make an overnight passage to arrive in Ensenada during daylight hours. However, we were reluctant to sail at night as crab pots are a hazard in the shallow water in this area. Spotting the floats is pretty tricky during the day, but almost impossible at night, and wrapping one around the propeller was a constant worry. So we compromised by leaving San Diego in the late afternoon with time to navigate out to deeper water beyond the crab pots before it got dark. We had a great sail under a clear sky with a 10-knot breeze on the starboard beam until the wind veered and died just before sunrise. On arrival in Ensenada the following morning, we tied up at Baja Naval Marina, located right in the centre of the town. It was a Sunday, and the good people of the city were in a fiesta mood. Families were promenading along the waterfront in their Sunday best, restaurants were overflowing with people, and wandering bands were crooning and strumming, their trumpets blaring out

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discordant brassy notes. It was a boisterous, jubilant welcome to Mexico! The next day we completed the Customs and Immigration formalities and were grateful to the staff at Baja Naval for their help in preparing all the documentation. Mexico is renowned for its complex and sluggish bureaucracy—but Ensenada has a one-stop-shop with all the necessary offices in one building, making the process easy, if not very quick. By midday, we had cleared in with the Port Captain, had our TIP (temporary import permit), and had purchased our fishing licenses, which are obligatory whether you plan to fish or not. Strong northerly winds are predominant in the Sea of Cortez at this time of year, but not much seems to get across the Baja Peninsula; the wind on the Pacific side was patchy and unpredictable. While we waited for good weather to head down the coast, we saw the departure of the Baja 1000; a mini ParisDakar off-road race that crisscrosses the spine of the Baja Peninsula from Ensenada to La Paz. The town was throbbing with buggies, bikes, and beetles—all customized race vehicles with huge tires, massive engines, and mammoth suspension—it was like a scene out of a Mad Max movie. When we left Ensenada, we were lucky to get three days of 15-to-20 knot northwesterlies and had a beautiful run to Isla Cedros, a dry and rocky island lying off the tip of Punta Eugenia. We anchored in the southern end of the bay as the sun was setting, highlighting the rugged hills in rich swaths of sienna w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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and shadow. Fishing is a big draw to the island, with both seabass and yellowtail in abundance around the kelp beds along the rocky shoreline. We trolled a line behind the boat and jiggled a lure from the aft deck but got not a bite, so the next day we continued on Bahía Tortugas. Bahía Tortugas—aka Turtle Bay—is a beautiful circular cove which lies 20 nautical miles southeast of Punta Eugenia. It is open to the southwest, but two rocky headlands protect it from most of the westerly swell, forming a haven of calm, duck pond-like water. Several other cruising boats were in the anchorage when we arrived, but there was space for plenty more, so we dropped the pick about 500 meters from the village. We took the dinghy in to the beach and met Pedro, who (for a small stipend) kept an eye on the dink while we had a look around. The village has several shops, a couple of restaurants, and a cantina on the beach where wifi, cold showers, and colder beers are available. We spent three days stocking up on supplies and exploring the bay, gathering in the evenings at the cantina for sundowners with other cruisers to chat about anchorages and the weather and everything else under the sun. Between Turtle Bay and Bahía Santa Maria are several sandy bays nestled behind small hooks of land where it is possible to tuck away from the northwest swell. We made the 50-nautical-mile trip from Turtle Bay to Bahía Asunción in very light winds and motorsailed most of the way. We rounded Isla w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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Asunción and anchored in the bay, where we found the water to be incredibly clear. We later discovered that harvesting abalone is one of the main sources of income for the community; no discharge is allowed to be dumped into the bay in order to maintain the clean water and preserve the high quality of the abalone. We wandered along the beach, watching the fishermen pack up their catches into iceboxes and stack lobster pots in their pangas to get ready for the next day’s work. Gulls squabbled over scraps while scruffy kids chased tatty dogs between the boats. It was appealing to see the simplicity and self-sufficiency of life in the village. In the evening, we stopped at Loncheria Mari and feasted on chili rellenos stuffed with prawns, crab, lobster, and octopus— it was a delicious tribute to the outstanding seafood in the village. It was in Bahía Asunción that we first fell foul to Mexico’s infamous beach surf landings. With the swell from the west, waves were breaking on the beach, which made getting the dinghy ashore quite an adventure. The key was to wait and watch the waves, figure out the pattern of the sets, then catch a wave before it breaks and ride it in. Unfortunately, we were not paying attention when leaving the beach; two waves broke across the bow of the dinghy and flooded it. We finally managed to get clear of the surf zone without being rolled over, but it was a careless mistake that cost us a laptop and a phone. Skipping San Hipólito, the next southbound anchorage is behind Punta Abreojos, a rocky

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headland scattered with treacherous reefs. It is wise to take heed of the name, which means “open your eyes,” and we gave the breakers on the point a wide berth. We anchored about 5 nautical miles east of the village, where we were less exposed to the swell— still, it was a rolly night. Fishing for spiny lobster and abalone are the mainstays of the village at Punta Abreojos, although some tourists pass through for the legendary surfing or to visit the nearby Laguna San Ignacio, frequented by pods of gray whales during the winter months. As we looked around and picked up a few provisions in the store, the people greeted us with a cheery “Buena!” and seemed genuinely pleased to see us. These small, friendly communities capture the spirit of the wild west coast of Baja at its best. The wind was patchy for the overnight passage from Punta Abreojos to Bahía Santa Maria, giving us a mix of good sailing and drifting so slowly that even turtles were overtaking us. On the morning of the second day, we were about 50 miles from the coast when a panga (a small local fishing boat) appeared from out of the blue. They came up alongside and asked if we had any sugar, so we traded a bag of sugar for a yellowtail jack. They chugged off to enjoy a sweet cup of tea and we filled the freezer with fresh fish—good deal! Bahía Santa Maria is a large crescent-shaped bay that lies just south of Cabo San Lázaro. The bay is well-protected from the swell, defined to the north and south by rocky islands and bounded to the east by a narrow strip of sand ridges that separate it from the huge lagoon of Bahía Magdalena behind. When we

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arrived, we were happy to find our friends Justine and John of s/v Rhythm were also anchored in the tranquil water at the northern end of the inlet. There is no permanent settlement in Bahía Santa Maria, but a dinghy ride up into channels amongst the mangroves revealed a cluster of fishing shacks with brightly-coloured pangas tied up along the bank. From November to May, itinerant fishermen stay in the bay to fish for tuna, jacks, and dorado, which are prolific in the coastal waters. In such a remote and beautiful place, it was a big surprise to find we had great wifi. All we needed was a supply of fresh water and veggies, and we probably never would have left! Bahía Santa Maria to Cabo San Lucas From the southern end of Bahía Santa Maria, it’s a mile walk across the sand bar—or a 25 nautical mile sail—to reach the small community at Man-o-War Cove in Bahía Magdalena. Strong tidal flows drain this enormous lagoon, so we made sure we rounded Punta Entrada and entered the bay on a flood tide, which makes for an easy ride to the village. The settlement of Puerto Magdalena at Mano-War Cove boasts about ten houses, a restaurant, and an abarrotes (grocery store), where we found candy, powdered soap, and phone cards—and, luckily, a few fresh vegetables. Surprisingly, the village has a desalination plant. Not surprisingly, it had ceased to function years ago, so fresh water for the village is brought across the lagoon by boat from Puerto San Carlos on the “mainland.” Behind the w w w . L at s A t t s . c o m

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village we found a couple of paths which follow the dry, rock-strewn gulches up to the windswept crest of the peninsula. We scrambled up to a stony peak and watched the sun descend into the vastness of the Pacific. Several birds of prey make the arid, rocky landscape of the Baja peninsula their home. We enjoyed watching a pair of ospreys building a nest on top of an electricity pole in the village. The nest was large and messy, made from sticks and twigs, bits of rope, and plastic bags, but they seemed very proud of it. Turkey vultures were also a common sight hanging around the garbage dump: large brutal-looking birds with chocolate brown plumage, skinny pink heads, and a hooked white beak. Punta Belcher is a sandy spit lying about 5 nautical miles south of Man-o-War Cove. Here, anchorage can be taken in the shallow water on either side of the point; we dropped the pick on the south side and went ashore to explore the old whaling station. During the nineteenth century, Bahía Magdalena was the centre of the U.S. whaling industry on the Baja Pacific coast, and whaling continued in the bay until the 1920s. A dilapidated wharf, some rusting tanks, and a few giant bones on the beach are all that remain at Punta Belcher as testament to the thousands of gray whales that were slaughtered there. There are no decent anchorages in the 170-mile stretch of coastline between Bahía Magdalena and Cabo San Lucas, so it was another overnight passage. As we departed Punta Belcher, we checked the weather gribs; the forecast promised reasonable winds with a favorable south setting w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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current, at least for the first part of the journey. We had some good sailing, running goose-winged before a light northerly breeze and later a beam reach when the wind veered to the northeast. We also had some frustrating motoring sessions, but we finally rounded the famous granite arch at the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. A deep east-west channel bisects Bahía San Lucas, and we dropped anchor with the other cruising yachts and pangas which crowd the narrow northern shelf. When John Steinbeck visited Cabo San Lucas on his exploration of the Sea of Cortez in 1940, there was just a tuna cannery and a few houses in the bay. It remained a small fishing village until the 1970s when the Mexican government decided to develop it for the low-end tourist market and gringos looking for a second home in the sun. The town is brash and brassy—jet skis plague the anchorage throughout the day and party boats with throbbing lights and pumping music tour the bay at night. Fishing is still one of the main draws to Cabo: Every morning, at least thirty charter boats bristling with fishing rods leave the marina and can be seen trolling off the arches and sea stacks where the Cape tumbles into the sea. We spent a month cruising down the west coast of Baja California. We enjoyed meeting other cruisers in the wellknown haunts of Turtle Bay and Santa Maria, but also relished the isolation and rugged beauty of Isla Cedros and the crystal clear waters of Bahía Asunción. There were several other magical spots, which made taking the slow route to Cabo San Lucas an unforgettable, rewarding experience.

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1982 50’ Hinckley - $279,500 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

1987 50’ Gulfstar - $79,000 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

2001 47’ Catalina - $198,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1982 46’ Irwin - $65,000 Jason Hinsch - 410.507.1259

1990 43’ Slocum - $232,300 Jim Davis - 386.871.4959

1984 43’ Wauquiez - $99,000 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

2006 43’ Beneteau - $176,000 Robbins Flynn - 251.232.9171

1987 41’ C&C - $59,000 Ed Pickering - 410.708.0633

1966 41’ Rhodes - $119,900 Bill Boos - 410.200.9295

1983 41’ Morgan - $74,999 Jim Davis - 386.871.4959

1992 40’ Sabre - $59,500 Curtis Stokes - 954.684.0218

1997 40’ Beneteau - $59,900 Steve Horinek - 239.887.0898

To see more details about these and all other yachts around the globe, please visit our website at

www.curtisstokes.net 154 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 154-155 Curtis Stokes.indd 2

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Worldwide Yacht Sales Yacht Charters New Yacht Construction

1984 40’ Lancer Boats - $20,000 Steve Horinek - 239.887.0898

1984 39’ Westerly - $69,900 Jim Davis - 386.871.4959

1980 39’ CAL - $55,000 David Robinson - 410.310.8855

2013 39’ Catalina - $215,000 Wayne Smith - 516.445.1932

1970 38’ Herreshoff - $49,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

1982 38’ Ericson $47,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

1984 38’ Ericson - $44,000 Ed Pickering - 410.708.0633

1985 38’ Ericson - $58,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

1991 38’ Pearson - $92,000 Steve Horinek - 239.887.0898

1983 36’ Canadian Sailcraft - $29,500 Mary Catherine Ciszewski - 804.815.8238

2000 36’ Endeavour - $121,500 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

2002 35’ Hunter - $57,500 Barbara Burke - 904.310.5110

1.855.266.5676 | 954.684.0218 | info@curtisstokes.net w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m

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AB Inflatables 179 Aero Yacht /McCONAGHY Multihull 35 American Sailing Association 16 Annapolis Hybrid Marine 115 Artisans Mattress 77 Atlantic Towers 119 ATN 117 Atomic Tuna Yachts 165 Aumaris Jewelry 8 B&G Yacht Maintenance 37 Bacon Sails 125 Bavaria Sail & Power/ JT Yachts 5 Beta Marine 28 Biker to Sailor 103 Blue Water Sailing School 168-169 Bocas Marina 104 BVI Yacht Sales 164 CS Johnson 111 Conch Charters 48 Coppercoat 39 Curtis Stokes & Associates 154-155 designM.D. 38 Eastern Yacht Sales 156-157 Edson Marine 9 El Cid Marinas 30 eMarine Systems 81 eMarine Systems 121 Forespar 113 Froli Sleep Systems 123 Great Lakes Scuttlebutt 125 Hamilton Ferris 33 HMC/Handcraft Mattress 115 IMIS/Gowrie 104 Hylas 2-3 Indiantown Marina 109 Jalapeño Charters 53 Kanberra Gel 83

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Aero Yacht /McCONAGHY Multihull 35 Atomic Tuna Yachts 165 Bavaria Sail & Power/ JT Yachts 5 BVI Yacht Sales 164 Curtis Stokes & Associates 154-155 Eastern Yacht Sales 156-157 Hylas 2-3 Little Yacht Sales 166-167 Massey Yacht Sales 162-163 Passport Yacht Broker 158-159 Passport Yachts 10-11 Royal Cape Catamarans 75 S&J Yachts 160-161 South Coast Yachts 153

Bosun’s Bag

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Hart Sytems Hydrovane International Marine, Inc. Keylime Sailing Club KISS-SSB M&B Shipcanvas Masthead Enterprises Matthew Turner Tallship No-Wear Guard OceanMedix Offshore Passage Opportunities Sailmaker’s Supply Seawater Pro Snappi (Snap-a-lot) Technautics Wolfgang Harms, LLC Zarcor

Non-Marine Advertisers

None! Why would we want that? This is a boating magazine. Ya wanna see fancy watches, pick-up trucks, and high-priced cars, read the other mags!

DON‛T WAIT! Contact Ad Director Lisa O‛Brien aboard Traveler in the San Juan Islands. 510-900-3616 Ext 105 Lisa@LatsAtts.com

Latitudes & Attitudes : Winter - Spring - Summer & Fall Issues Next Issue: Spring 2021 Ad Insertions by 1/18/21 - Art Due 1/22/21 - On Sale 3/2/21 Contact Us Today: Ads@LatsAtts.com 510-900-3616 ext.105

Latitudes & Attitudes 177 10/29/20 2:58 PM


Boat People

Meet some folks who have managed to make a lifestyle out of most people’s dreams. Boat people can be found on oceans and seas, scattered around the globe. They can be spotted easily. They are the ones who have a glazed look in their eyes as they scan the horizons. Here are a few we’ve seen. Have you seen any lately? If so, email a photo and information to: submissions@LatsAtts.com

Brent Richardson is motoring Synergy, his 2007 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 42DS, through a windless, rainy passage along the northern boundary of the San Juan Islands. Here he is headed to Roche Harbor to enjoy the weekend.

Check out Bill Hunter on his 1930 power cruiser Widgeon, a very classy vessel indeed! He was tied up next to us on m/y Traveler while we were in Coupeville on Whidbey Island. He sails out of Seattle on this very well kept 90-year-old vessel!

Jon Lang and his wife, Marcella, have lived aboard Grand Illusion, a Beneteau 373, for 13 years in Seattle and Port Ludlow, WA. He’s always there to lend neighbors a helping hand docking! They love the liveaboard lifestyle!

Thirteen-year-old Hannah Koutz has been sailing summers with her grandparents on the Great Lakes since she was 9 years old on the Catalina 250, s/v 6knots. Her dog, Scallywag, started sailing at 7 weeks. She also keeps her warm in her bunk.

The photo of Paul and Frederiek was taken aboard Osprey while anchored off Young Island. Paul, Frederiek, and their friend, Laurens, had purchased Wildevaart, rebuilt and outfitted her, then sailed her across the Atlantic from Holland.

This photo was sent in by Robert Feld of his son, Travis, and daughter, Nichole, cruising in beautiful Long Beach, CA. They enjoy sailing and plan on doing it for many years to come!

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The Lats & Atts booth at a typical boat show

Why a Boat Show? By Bob Bitchin

I love boat shows. I have since I first got into boating. I remember how the marina I was in would get a “buzz” as soon as the poster would appear in the local broker’s window. “The Boat Show!” Words that conjured up aisles of goodies we couldn’t afford, and those necessities we could. Back then, the sextant booth was “happening.” Rumors circulated of navigation that would actually show you where you were on a chart on a television screen. But that was “futuristic,” not to be had by mere mortals. But, every year we would pile into a car and head But, every year, we would pile into a car and head to the boat show. It was a rite of passage, a ritual that had to be observed by those of us who lived for boats. And seldom were we disappointed. If we were lucky, we’d see sailing celebrities like Lin and Larry Pardey, Bernard Moitessier, or Herb Payson. They were held in reverence by those of us who had not been able to venture out yet. The boat show would conjure dreams of sailing the seven seas and visiting far-flung paradise islands. I was lucky enough to be able to fulfill my dreams of cruising the world. I started slow, sailing across the Catalina Channel. Twenty-six miles of adventure. My first crossing was a real adventure. And as the time passed, the adventure would stretch to sail south to Mexico, then west to Hawaii. Soon I found myself sailing to the South Pacific, the Caribbean, and the Med. And it all started at a boat show! And then, I returned to my home port and did what I knew best. I started a magazine about the life I loved. I’d

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done it before, in the 70s when I started Biker Magazine, and in the 80s when I’d started Tattoo Magazine. It was all I knew. And soon, I found myself heading to the boat shows to actually work them. I gotta tell ya, it was still as exciting. Our first issue, we made a deal with one of the boat manufacturers (Pearson Yachts) to share their floating platform at the Annapolis Boat Show. No one knew who or what we were, but we wanted to get the word out, so we stood on the dock “selling” issues for $1. We figured if we gave ‘em away, people would just throw ‘em in the trash, but if they paid a buck, they’d probably keep it and read it. And they did. While at that show, I met one of the people I’d been reading about, Tania Aebi. I had followed her adventure sailing alone around the world with envy. And then, there she was, just sitting on a boat a few yards down the dock. I was intimidated by her fame but wanted to meet and talk to her, so I did. Now, over 20 years later, we are like family, as Lin Pardey and John Kretchmer are. You see, people who live their dreams, which is what all sailors are, always seem to be just people once you meet them. I never felt I belonged to that “family” until I realized we had one thing in common—the love of the sea. And I still loved boat shows. But I thought it was time we tried to add something to the shows, to make them more fun, and to make people

Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular! 10/26/20 6:17 AM


who were in the industry more accessible to the people who enjoyed doing them until the COVID-19 pandemic stopped were there to see what was new and to learn. them for a while. In 2001, we threw our first Cruisers’ Party at a small The first one we missed was Newport, Rhode Island. show in St. Petersburg, Florida. It was a blast! Before It was always the premier show. It started the season and then, if there was a party at a show, it was either for the would attract thousands to see what was coming out for the exhibitors or the “VIPs.” We decided to throw one for the new season. Then, a couple of weeks later, it was Annapolis, people who made it possible to be doing what we do. the King of the Sailboat Shows. If it had sails, it was at the So, we got the exhibitors and the attendees together, US Sailboat Show. and it was an instant hit. The exhibitors wanted to meet From there, we’d head south to some warmer with their customers in a less formal setting (read: with weather and one of our favorite shows, St. Pete. It’s not the a cold beer in their hand!), and the attendees wanted to biggest, but it was always a great show for us because it’s talk to the people who made the stuff they wanted for where we started the first boat show party. It’s always been their boats. one of the best. Our next party in Oakland, California, was a little From there, the Miami Boat Show was always a big bigger. Soon we were having these parties at the Newport, show. In fact, it’s one of the biggest in the US, and the Atlantic City, and Miami shows. We even did one in Annapolis parties there were, as they say, epic! If it is for a boat, you’ll once. Just once. find it at the Miami Boat Show. You see, a lot of people go to the Annapolis show. It’s Of course, there is one bigger. Much bigger. boot the biggest sailboat show in the country. So we arranged for Dusseldorf is the biggest boat show in the world. Over 2 a place to have a party, and they said no problem. We could million square feet. Over 10 miles of aisles, and everything have up to 500 people there. marine. From 100-foot Well, 1,200 people showed megayachts to kayaks and up, and we were asked never dinghies, and everything to do that again... I guess we in between. It is truly an had too much fun. amazing show. Our biggest party, Now, I don’t want to starring Eric Stone, was denigrate the other shows. in Miami in 2007. We had There are boat shows Kyle Rife on the lead guitar, scheduled just about Steve and Shelly Hall, Steve every weekend of the year Hendrikson on the steel somewhere in this world. drums, and an estimated But we have a pretty small 1,800 people! staff, so we can’t have Since then, we’ve booths in them all. So, if hosted Cruisers’ Parties all you are into the cruising Graduates of a Lats&Atts Seminar over the world. In the Pacific lifestyle, I highly suggest (Yes, the Black Pearl is in the background!) Northwest, it turned into you check out one of your an annual gathering of the regional shows. Yes, it’s pirates, and we’d get 100 to 200 boats sailing in, with where you will find the latest in technology—but more everyone dressed like pirates, and it lasted the whole than that, it’s where you will find hundreds of people weekend.We hosted Cruisers’ Parties in Auckland, New who love the same thing you do. Cruising. Zealand, the BVIs, Greece, and numerous in Bora Bora. Keep in mind that the vast majority of people And these all came about because of the boat shows. who work in the marine industry come from cruising. We started to sponsor seminars by people who could It’s kinda what you do if that is your life’s passion. share their experiences and help people learn more about They say you never work a day in your life if you do the life they wanted to lead. This led to an annual Cruising what you love, and the people who get the most from Seminar, which we have hosted all over the country. We held cruising into the industry are what make these shows them in California, at Mystic Seaport in Connecticut, and so important for people who are just getting into even in Biloxi, Mississippi! the lifestyle. At the shows, we found that people wanted to get As most of the boat shows have been cancelled actual experience, so we started our “Share The Sail” due to the pandemic, we decided to create this adventures and have taken cruisers all over the world. special “International Boat Show Spectacular,” so Our first was in Tahiti in 1999; since then we have hosted you can hear from the seminar speakers you gatherings in Croatia, the BVIs, Greece, New Zealand, Tonga, missed, see the new boats that are out there, and the Grenadines, and a host of other cruising destinations. see what’s new and innovative in the world we all And, all of this came about from the boat shows. enjoy so much. But the best thing about the boat shows is still the We know the shows will be back as soon as the shows themselves. We didn’t realize just how much we pandemic is over. Until then, enjoy this free “boat show”!

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EXHIBITORS ARTICLES

SEMINARS

WELCOME TO THE BOAT SHOW! �������������������������� 4 By Bob Bitchin

THE 5-STEP PLAN TO YOUR SAILING DREAMS ���������������������� 22 By Captain Jeff Grossman & Captain Jean Levine, AMS; Two Can Sail

BOOT DÜSSELDORF, THROUGH THE YEARS ������ 10 From boot

WHY A SAILING SCHOOL? ������������������������������������������������������� 26 By Steve & Doris Colgate, Offshore Sailing School

CORONAVIRUS AND BOAT SHOPPING �������������� 12 From Discover Boating

TAKE YOUR BUSINESS ABOARD ���������������������������������������������� 30 By Richard Anderson, Sea-Tech

NEWPORT INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW ��������� 14 By Nancy Piffard, Show Director

FLOAT YOUR BOAT MORE EASILY WITH PRIVATE CHARTERS ����� 34 By Captain Joe, MarineMotion

ANNAPOLIS BOAT SHOW ������������������������������������ 16 From Annapolis Boats Shows

NIGHT CRUISING DEMYSTIFIED ���������������������������������������������� 38 By Captain Lisa Batchelor, Kinetic Sailing

5 BOATS MAKING BIG NEWS ������������������������������� 18 By Zuzana Prochazka INNOVATIONS OF 2020 ��������������������������������������� 18 By Zuzana Prochazka FIND LATS & ATTS AT THE BOAT SHOWS ����������� 66

PURCHASING YOUR OFFSHORE ESCAPE VEHICLE ���������������� 44 By John Neals, Mahina Offshore Services MEDICAL PREPARATION FOR COASTAL CRUISING & OCEAN VOYAGING ������������������������������������������������������������� 52 By Denny Emory, OceanMedix

PRODUCTS + SERVICES Annapolis Hybrid Marine - Bellmarine Systems ���������������������53 Annapolis Hybrid Marine- ePropulsion Spirit 1.0 Plus ���������58 Annapolis Hybrid Marine - Oceanvolt ServoProp ������������������55 Atlantic Towers & St. Croix Marine Products ����������������������������25 Atlantic Towers & St. Croix Marine Products - Tower in a Box ���52 Aumaris - 3-strand Turks Head Ring �����������������������������������������52 Aumaris - Shackle Earrings ����������������������������������������������������������55 Aumaris - Sloop Earrings �������������������������������������������������������������59 B+G Marine Services ���������������������������������������������������������������������47 Bavaria Sail & Power/ JT Yachts ������������������������������������������������ 2-3 BoaterBase™ �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������37 boot Düsseldorf �����������������������������������������������������������������������������68 Coppercoat �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������45 designM.D. ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������55 Edson Marine ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������11 eMarine Systems - Balmar Battery Monitor ����������������������������56 eMarine Systems - ePropulsion �������������������������������������������������56 eMarine Systems - FireFly Batteries ������������������������������������������57 eMarine Systems - Marlic 1200 Wind Generator ������������������57 eMarine Systems - SCAD Tank Monitors ���������������������������������57 eMarine Systems - Victron ����������������������������������������������������������56 eMarine Systems - Xantrex Solar �����������������������������������������������56 eMarine Systems Promotion ������������������������������������������������������57 Hydrovane International Marine, Inc. ���������������������������������������59 Keenan Filters ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������52 KISS-SSB �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������58 Little Yacht Sales ����������������������������������������������������������������������������59 M&B SHIPCANVAS �������������������������������������������������������������������������51

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Mahina Offshore Services �����������������������������������������������������������47 Mantus Marine - M1 Anchor ������������������������������������������������������53 Mantus Marine - Scuba Compressor ���������������������������������������58 Mantus Marine - M2 Anchor �������������������������������������������������������55 Mystic Knotwork �����������������������������������������������������������������������������53 Newport International Boat Show �����������������������������������������������9 Nexus Green �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������51 OceanMedix - D.H. Russell Yachtsman Knife by Grohmann Knives ����55 OCENS - Iridium Go �����������������������������������������������������������������������51 OCENS - OneMail ���������������������������������������������������������������������������52 OCENS - Saga ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������55 Pacific NW Boater Tested - Hook & Moor �������������������������������56 Pacific NW Boater Tested - Ultraline Flat Rope Reel �������������51 Paradise Village Marina ����������������������������������������������������������������15 Port Ludlow Marina �����������������������������������������������������������������������17 Sailrite �����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������67 SailTime ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������59 San Juan Sailing ������������������������������������������������������������������������������17 Snappi-a-lot �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������51 The Canvas Store ���������������������������������������������������������������������������13 Two Can Sail ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������59 Two Can Sail ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������53 UGO Wear - Promotion ����������������������������������������������������������������29 UGO Wear - Slim 2.0 ���������������������������������������������������������������������52 Ultimate Sailing - 2021 Ultimate Sailing Calendar �����������������53 Ultimate Sailing - Flying Colors Puzzle ��������������������������������������58 ULTRA Marine West - ULTRA Anchor ����������������������������������������58 Whiteaker Yacht Sales ������������������������������������������������������������������������33

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10/29/20 11:33 AM


Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular!

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VESSELS B O A T S from B R O K E R S

B O A T S from B U I L D E R S

ATOMIC TUNA YACHTS ������������������������������������� PAGE 1999 Beneteau 47.7 - Big Medecine ����������������������������39 1999 Catalina MKII - Carla Anne �����������������������������������31 2001 Oyster 54 - Aretha �������������������������������������������������42 2002 Sydney 38 - Bustin Loose �������������������������������������32 2003 Beneteau 473 - Torreo ����������������������������������������39 2004 Catalina 35 - Sinaloa ��������������������������������������������31 2015 Catalina 385 - Aolani ��������������������������������������������34 2015 Hanse 385 - Ducella ���������������������������������������������32 2007 Saga 409 - Black Swan �����������������������������������������33 2020 True North 34 �������������������������������������������������������31

MONOHULLS PAGE

BVI YACHT SALES 1986 Custom Built Sailboat - Pacific Wave ����������������45 1989 65’ Custom Cruiser - Malolo ������������������������������44 1997 Voyage 500 - Sea Chateau ����������������������������������40 2001 Island Packet 420 - Cajun Moon ������������������������35 2001 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 52.2 - Just Like That �����������42 2003 Beneteau 393 - Santa Maria ������������������������������34 2008 Voyage 500 - Irie ���������������������������������������������������40 2013 Lagoon 450 - Sandy ���������������������������������������������37 2014 Lagoon 450F - Goat Herder ��������������������������������37 2015 Hanse 575 - Fortiter ���������������������������������������������43 2016 Beneteau 60 - Alkemia �����������������������������������������43 DAVID WALTER YACHTS 1999 Sundeer 60 - Crazy Horse �����������������������������������44 2008 Oyster 56 - Manitou ���������������������������������������������43 2013 Shannon 52 RDP - Miramar �������������������������������42 2015 Hylas 70 - Innisfree ������������������������������������������������45 LITTLE YACHT SALES Catalina 385 ���������������������������������������������������������������������34 Catalina 425 ���������������������������������������������������������������������36 Catalina 445 ���������������������������������������������������������������������38 Catalina 545 ���������������������������������������������������������������������42 Lagoon 40 �������������������������������������������������������������������������34 Lagoon 42 �������������������������������������������������������������������������36 Lagoon 46 �������������������������������������������������������������������������38 Lagoon SIXTY7 �����������������������������������������������������������������44 S&J YACHTS Bavaria C45 ����������������������������������������������������������������������38 Bavaria New Vida 33 ������������������������������������������������������30 Bavaria R40 ����������������������������������������������������������������������35 Bluewater 50 Catamaran ����������������������������������������������41 Southerly 48 ���������������������������������������������������������������������39

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Catalina Yachts 545 ��������������������������������������������������������27 Colgate C-26 ���������������������������������������������������������������������23 Com-Pac Legacy & Legacy Sport ���������������������������������21 Com-Pac Eclipse ��������������������������������������������������������������22 Com-Pac Horizon Day Cat ��������������������������������������������22 Com-Pac 23 ����������������������������������������������������������������������22 Garcia Exploration 52 ����������������������������������������������������26 Gig Harbor 1 ��������������������������������������������������������������������21 Gig Harbor 2 ��������������������������������������������������������������������21 Gig Harbor 3 ��������������������������������������������������������������������22 Gig Harbor 4 ��������������������������������������������������������������������21 Hylas H48 ��������������������������������������������������������������������������25 Hylas H57 ��������������������������������������������������������������������������28 Hylas H60 ��������������������������������������������������������������������������30 Passport Voyager 470 Center Cockpit �����������������������25 Passport Voyager 480 Aft Cockpit ������������������������������26 Passport Vista 545 Center Cockpit �����������������������������28 Passport Vista 615 Twin Cockpit ���������������������������������30

CATAMARANS

Leopard 45 �����������������������������������������������������������������������23 Excess 12 ��������������������������������������������������������������������������24 Royal Cape Catamarans Majestic 530 �����������������������27 Royal Cape Catamarans Majestic 530 Fly �����������������27 Royal Cape Catamaran Majestic 570 �������������������������29 Royal Cape Catamaran Majestic 570 Fly �������������������29

POWER

Hylas M49 �������������������������������������������������������������������������26 Ranger R-25 Tug ��������������������������������������������������������������23 Nova Luxe Yachts Elite 44 ���������������������������������������������23 Nova Luxe Yachts Elite 50 ���������������������������������������������26 Selene 45 Passagemaker ����������������������������������������������24 Summit 54 ������������������������������������������������������������������������27

SOUTH COAST YACHT SALES Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 �������������������������������������������������30 Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 �������������������������������������������������33 Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 �������������������������������������������������35 Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 �������������������������������������������������38 Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 �������������������������������������������������41 Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54 �����������������������������������������43 Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 62 �����������������������������������������44 Beneteau Swift Trawler 35 ��������������������������������������������31 Beneteau Swift Trawler 41 ��������������������������������������������35 Beneteau Swift Trawler 47 ��������������������������������������������39

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Contributor Zuzana Prochazka zuzana@LatsAtts.com Media Princess Tabitha “Bitchin” Lipkin tabitha@LatsAtts.com

NATIONAL EST .

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Boat Show Queen Jody “Bitchin” Lipkin jody@LatsAtts.com

ADVERTISING

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Head Wordsmith (Editor) Katie “Bitchin” Chestnut katie@LatsAtts.com

Editor Emeritus Sue Morgan sue@LatsAtts.com

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Janitorial Assistant Bob Bitchin bob@LatsAtts.com

NE W PO R

Advertising Goddess Lisa O’Brien lisa@LatsAtts.com 510-900-3616 Ext #105 Latitudes & Attitudes Box 100 Berry Creek, CA 95916 Phone 510-900-3616 info@LatsAtts.com

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Office Mascots Jessie & Katie Bitchin Cash “Bitchin” Chestnut

Marketing & Video Darren O’Brien darren@LatsAtts.com Web & Art Guru Richard Marker rich@LatsAtts.com

Advertisers Bavaria ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 2-3 Sailrite ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������67 boot Düsseldorf ��������������������������������������������������������������������68

NEWPORT INTERNATIONAL BOAT SHOW

SEPTEMBER 16-19, 2021 POWER & SAIL TOGETHER KAYAKS TO CRUISERS | MARINE EQUIPMENT SERVICES | ACCESSORIES

Newport for new products Official U.S. Debuts of 2022 Boats & Boating Products

NEWPORTBOATSHOW.COM

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boot in Düsseldorf, Germany, the largest boat and water sports trade fair in the world, is where the entire industry meets in January every year. It is the information and ordering hotspot for about 250,000 water sports enthusiasts from over 100 countries— with 1,900 exhibitors from 70 nations showcasing their products on more than 2-million square feet net in 17 halls. The event had humble beginnings: it started in Düsseldorf in November 1969 with 116 exhibitors and 34,000 visitors. It was a sensation at that time to display boats inside halls. Only one year later, 183 companies from 25 countries participated, requiring twice as much space as the year before. In 1972, boot moved into the new, ultramodern exhibition center in Düsseldorf and has been held there ever since. Its January date makes it the first event of the year and the gateway trade fair to the new season. In 1972, the duration of the trade fair was extended to nine days to include two weekends. Over the years, the exhibit categories at boot were extended according to current trends, including super yachts, a variety of water sports equipment and underwater photography.

1969

1970s, 1980s & 1990s

After ten successful boot years with a rapid increase in exhibitor and visitor numbers and hall space, boot addressed the growing popularity of diving and added a diving tank to boot’s diving hall. In 1980, the Big Willy crane made its debut, moving boats of up to 100 tons out of the Rhine river onto the fairgrounds. In 1989, boot’s commitment towards environment and marine protection began, and has been an important topic at

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the event ever since, with initiatives such as “Years of the Ocean,” “Love the Ocean,” and the popular “ocean tribute” award. The new millennium brings more transformation to boot including 14 new themed worlds, the canoe forum, stand-up paddling and skimboarding equipment, and exhibits of vintage boats. Also, for the first time, indoor-surfing is offered at a watersports trade fair. The “boot.club” is introduced. This large Internet community offers up-to-date information on events relating to boot as well as special offers for members. boot regularly has partner countries with often royal representatives at the show, such as Prince Albert of Monaco. International sports celebrities included Robby Naish, showing off his surfing skills.

2000

Fast forward to today: With the slogan “reboot your business,” boot will return from January 23 – 31, 2021 at the fairgrounds in Düsseldorf, Germany. With a focus on boats and yachts, engines and engine technology, equipment and accessories, services, canoes, kayaks, kitesurfing, rowing, diving, surfing, wakeboarding, windsurfing, SUP, fishing, maritime art, marinas, water sports facilities as well as beach resorts and charter, the entire market will be on display at boot 2021.

2021

17 halls filled with everything any water sports fan can wish for!

For a truly 360-degree water sports experience, boot 2021 will feature special themed areas and activity zones such as the Sailing Center, the Super Boat Hall,

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the Superyacht Show, the Dive Center, Refit Center, and Sports Fishing Center, as well as the Travel World, Beach World, and World of Paddling. There will be something for everyone, whether water sports is a longtime cherished hobby or a new passion. Best of all, a lot of the equipment can be tried out on site. Visitors can take a kayak for a spin, test diving gear in the special diving tank, or ride a surfboard on the 29-foot wide and 5-foot high “WAVE.” There will also be shopping galore for clothing and equipment. On-stage presentations will address a wide range of topics such as environmental protection of the oceans, underwater photography, and exotic travel destinations. A special highlight at boot 2021 will be the super boat and luxury boat halls, where the leading shipyards in this sector will exhibit their top-of-the line products. But here, motor and sailboats are equally important, and all major players in this segment will be represented. The “ocean tribute” award will again be presented by the Prince Albert II Foundation, the German Marine Foundation, and boot Düsseldorf for the fourth time in 2021. The boot organizers continue to adapt their COVID-19 safety precautions to the latest findings in order to ensure the high safety and hygiene standards already in place at the exhibition center. boot 2021 will take place in accordance with the Coronavirus Protection Ordinance of the German state of North Rhine-Westphalia where Düsseldorf is located. Messe Düsseldorf has developed a hygiene concept with concrete measures in close cooperation with the authorities in order to keep visitors, exhibitors, and staff safe.

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Be part of the excitement! Get more information about boot 2021 and sign up at www.boot.com.

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www.EdsonMarine.com Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular

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Coronavirus and Boat Shopping: What You Should Know Source: Discover Boating

Despite continued uncertainty surrounding COVID-19, many boaters gravitate towards the water – one of the safest and most enjoyable things you can do amid the pandemic. For some, that means navigating social distancing best practices as they prepare their boats for launch, and for others, that brings about the possibility of buying a new boat. The process of shopping for a boat during a pandemic may raise questions for prospective boat buyers. How do you go about safely purchasing a boat while following social distancing guidelines? Fortunately, with proper preparation, identifying, testing, purchasing and servicing a new boat is still very possible. Plus, with effective use of technology it will not be long before you are at the helm, enjoying the best of social distancing on the water. Are Boat Dealers Still Open? Generally speaking, marine dealers are allowed to operate in all 50 states. However, many dealers/states have set capacity limits and other social distancing measures to ensure the health and safety of customers and employees. Prior to purchase, confirm that your local dealerships are operating and arranging customer appointments. Additionally, make sure you will be able to launch and use your new boat safely within the area. Use Discover Boating’s Public Water Access Map for the latest updates on local boating guidelines, ramp availability and access in your area. When choosing a dealer to work with, ask potential candidates about their safe boating and social distancing policies and business practices. Doing Research Online When it comes to researching boat brands, models and features online, there are many ways to explore options before you buy. • Start with Discover Boating’s Boat Finder tool to explore 23 different boat types to narrow down your favorite based on preferred activities, passengers and more. • The Boat Buyer’s Guide is also a useful tool to learn more about the costs of ownership, boat loans and financing information, certified boats and understanding boat values and pricing.

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• Visit manufacturer websites and virtual boat shows or browse dealer listings of new and pre-owned boats. When you find a particular model, call your dealer and request a walk-through video of that model to help make an informed decision, and come prepared with specific questions for a more efficient inspections process. Scheduling Appointments and Sea Trials Set up a private appointment with your local dealer either online or by phone to see a boat model in person for a walkthrough or sea trial. Before your appointment, keep these tips in mind to ensure a safe and efficient experience: • Limit the number of passengers on a sea trial and arrive with only those you live with who will be decision-makers. • Prior to a sea trial, arrange to meet the broker at the marina or slip directly without stopping at the marina office. • Stay at least six feet from dealer and marina personnel. • The total number of people aboard at any one time will be dictated by the size of the vessel. It may be necessary to split up your group into multiple rides. • Be prepared to wear personal protection equipment (PPE), especially a mask or face covering. In some cases, the dealer may provide masks, gloves, wipes and hand sanitizer, but bring your own if possible. • Arrive with sunscreen, water, and a notebook or phone to record your sea trial for review later. • Understand that the use of public restrooms may not be an option, so plan ahead. • Ask the dealer about how the boat was prepared and sanitized prior to stepping aboard. • Don’t assist with other people’s docking lines and don’t linger on the docks before or after the sea trial. Closing the Deal and Getting Your Boat When it comes to closing the deal, purchase paperwork can be completed in-person with your dealer while following safe social distancing guidelines. In some circumstances, marine lenders do allow purchase documents to be finalized digitally. Before the boat is made available for pick-up or drop-off, dealers clean, disinfect and sanitize boat and user-manuals

Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular! 10/26/20 6:43 AM


per CDC and local health and safety standards. If home dropoffs are available, the process will also include proper social distancing and sanitizing measures. Ongoing Service and Support For service, warranty claims or additional equipment installation after the sale, much of the same social distancing and safety processes that were deployed during the sale will be utilized. • For service, call ahead to set an appointment to drop off the boat. • Clearly discuss via phone or online what the issue is, what needs to be done, how long it will take, how much it will cost and how the process will be managed and by whom. • A video call may help to communicate a performance issue more clearly to a technician who will be working on the problem. • Turn over the boat properly sanitized and request to get it back in the same condition. • You may need to complete online service forms and prepay work orders in advance. • Ask whether the dealer staggers service appointments to limit your exposure to others. • Use PPE and social distance accordingly. For additional information about how boat dealers across the United States are sharpening their own processes for safe operations and ensuring that their customers have a safe and enjoyable time on the water, be sure to visit the Marine Retailers Association of America (MRAA).

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Newport International Boat Show Hits the ‘Reset’ Button Planning in progress to celebrate its 50th Anniversary in 2021 By Nancy Piffard, Show Director

Back in March, the relentless, highly contagious COVID-19 virus hit the US with a vengeance. Rarely used words such as pandemic, quarantine, and record lay-offs suddenly became part of our daily conversations. Adding to the unease, state and government officials ordered mandatory shutdowns, travel restrictions, school closings, and, very sadly, the announcement that hundreds of thousands had succumbed to the deadly virus. The year 2020 and COVID-19 will forever be remembered. After announcing the cancelling of NIBS in July due to COVID-19 restrictions, we set our sights on the future. To keep the Show relevant in the short-term and to connect with our loyal followers, we continue to leverage the power

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of social media, newsletter articles, and networking. A new NIBS website will launch in January 2021 and at that time we will also be featuring a “NIBS Clothing” website – where special 50th Anniversary shirts, jackets, hats, and other accessories will be available for purchase online. In other exciting news, Hammetts Hotel, situated in the heart of our show site, is open! The finished product is beautiful and unique in its design and will certainly add a new element to the Newport Boat Show. The 84-room boutique hotel is a perfect location for exhibitors, sponsors, and attendees to stay. Its outdoor deck and Chef Kevin O’Donnell’s award-winning Giusto Restaurant are perfect for networking and relaxing during and after the show.

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Looking ahead, with COVID-19 continuing to change the way we live, work, and play, our team will continue to take into account various safety precautions that may be here to stay; wearing masks, sanitizing, social distancing, and more. Like everyone else, we are hopeful that a safe vaccine will be available sooner rather than later, but we will plan for two scenarios, one where we are free from COVID, and one with the virus still a concern.

2020 has definitely been a challenging year, but as they say, you don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone. The pandemic has highlighted the importance of human connection, and we cannot wait to welcome everyone back to Newport on September 16–19, 2021! See you then.

www.newportboatshow.com

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Annapolis Boats Shows Is Ready for 2021 With a Full Show Schedule While 2020 has been a difficult year for boat shows everywhere, Annapolis Boat Shows is ready to take on 2021 with gusto and determination. Taking in all the knowledge from this past year’s collaborations to keep their shows running, the management team behind it all is working hard to successfully kick off their spring and fall line-up of renowned in-water shows. The Boat Shows team is looking to begin participating in comprehensive meetings to plan and create a methodology that would ensure the safety of the county, the state, and their dedicated attendees - both local and abroad. Regular meetings and decision-making sessions will be on the calendar, with the hope of creating a steering committee consisting of county health officials, representatives from economic development, commerce, city management, the boat show producers, and their contractors. A 35-page health and safety manual has already been drafted, along with logistics and protocols, to allow each show to run safely and productively. As many in the boating industry would say, the best way to experience your next boat is in-person, on the water, and with the freedom to give it a test ride. This spring, the Annapolis Boat Show schedule will be like those of recent years with the Bay Bridge Boat Show taking place over the weekend of April 16-18, 2021. This decades-old show has grown to display 450 new and brokerage powerboats of all sizes. It marks the beginning

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of the boating season on the Chesapeake Bay and the MidAtlantic region, attracting visitors from all around Maryland and neighboring Virginia, Delaware, and Pennsylvania. Attendees can enjoy the stunning view of the Chesapeake Bay Bridge with bright sunrises and gorgeous sunsets as they browse the vast selection of boats, gear, and additional vendors. The show will also continue to include educational seminars, fun workshops, a food court, and dozens of demo boats so visitors can try before they buy and make a confident purchase. The Annapolis Spring Sailboat Show will open two weeks later and run from April 30 - May 2, 2021 at the beautiful city docks of downtown Annapolis. This show, although smaller than the iconic fall international sailboat show, is the largest gathering of sailors and boats in the first half of the year. New this year is the decision to expand the show to include a more festive vibe with the Maryland Boat Festival. Each show night will now feature evening entertainment and activities for attendees and exhibitors to enjoy. The weekend will also continue to be full of the show’s popular collection of hands-on workshops, including Cruisers University, First Sail Workshops, and many other fresh seminars for experienced and new boaters alike. Later in the year, the fall schedule will return at full strength and is sure to welcome a large and enthusiastic international crowd of boat lovers.

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Discover the San Juan Islands!

The United States Sailboat Show will return on its traditional Columbus Day weekend of October 7-11, 2021. If you are looking to experience the latest sailboat models, this show is a must-visit experience. Walk aboard and make side-by-side comparisons on new and premiering catamarans, monohulls, family cruisers, daysailers, and blue water sailboats. Attendees can also dive into several educational and training programs for boating enthusiasts of all types and skill levels. You won’t want to miss the world’s largest and most prestigious sailboat show in the historic seaport town of Annapolis. The following weekend, the United States Powerboat Show comes back to town on October 14-17, 2021. This is the largest powerboat show north of Florida featuring the latest models by top manufacturers, from trailerable center-consoles to ocean-going yachts, plus, a handful of previously owned yachts to fit every lifestyle in a dedicated brokerage section. Tents will also be stocked with nautical gear and accessories, industry representatives will be ready and available to answer any questions, and attendees can get on the water at the demo dock to test drive specific models. The home state of the blue crab and crab cake, the US Naval Academy, and the historic charm of Annapolis is ready to welcome boat enthusiasts from around the world once again. See you in 2021.

Conveniently located in the Pacific Northwest, the San Juan Islands are one of the premier cruising grounds worldwide! Even if you can’t cruise the San Juans aboard your own boat there are several great alternatives. • Learn to sail on a weeklong live-aboard sailing course. • Charter a boat and explore the islands on your own. • Enjoy the camaraderie of a guided flotilla (charter a boat or rent a stateroom on a participating captained sailboat).

CHARTER

SCHOOL

Bellingham, WA • 360-671-4300 sanjuansailing.com THE RESORT AT

NEW MOD HOM EL ES OPEN

Port Ludlow Marina is open year round and offers: • • • • • • •

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Boat in and Golf packages available 30+ miles of walking trails Waterfront Dining Covered Pavilion & BBQ Fire Pit Fuel Dock & Pump Out Free WiFi Marina Store

www.PortLudlowResort.com • 360.437.0513 Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular bsLA 16-17 Annapolis Article - MKC.indd 3

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Talk of the Dock

By Zuzana Prochazka

5 BOATS MAKING BIG NEWS The US gets a first glimpse of models freshly launched in 2020 Damn the boat shows, full speed ahead! What do you do if you’re a boatbuilder with new boats to introduce during a pandemic? You launch them anyway via special sea trials and then invite the press to have some fun. Every October, I run my feet bloody at the Annapolis boat show, trying to catch up with all the new model introductions. Then I sit and have a Painkiller, or three. This year, I thought I’d miss out, but I got the call to come and sea trial, so I donned my facemask, doused myself with sanitizer, and got on a plane to visit the sailing capital of the US. I’ve been skunked more times than I care to admit on sea trials on the Chesapeake. Typically, there’s no wind or lots of rain and sometimes both, with lightning thrown in just for fun. This year I got sunny skies, 20 knots of true wind, and flat water. Bliss. It may have been the weather, but I must say that all five models left a good impression and each one is worth putting on your short list if you’re looking for a cruising boat. As for the Painkillers? I managed to have one, or three.

Excess 11 Catamaran The baby of the new Excess (or XCS) line is the 11. At 37 feet, she’s the smallest, but truth be told, there’s nothing petite about her. A from-scratch brand new hull and a streamlined bimini make this the first of the series that wasn’t a somewhat-repurposed Lagoon. You won’t find a flybridge on an Excess. Instead, there are twin wheels far aft and out on the hulls. Not only does this give you the feeling of wind-in-your-hair sailing, but the visibility aft when docking is great. What’s surprising is that you can actually see forward too through the saloon to the opposite corner. That’s a bit of a breakthrough for aft helm cats. The XCS 11 has a self-tacking jib and an optional Code 0 on a sprit. That’s the easiest sailing combination for short-handed cruising. We zipped along at around 9 knots and didn’t want to stop. Fun!

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Arcona 435 Swedish cruiser, Arcona, has been a sought-after brand for 20 years. Now they’ve introduced something slightly different on their 43-foot hull that won the European Yacht of the Year in 2019. The boat is all-electric – the Tesla of the sea. With an Oceanvolt motor and a ServoProp Sail Drive, you can motor up to 6.5 knots on flat water and regenerate the power used once back under sail. To optimize the rate of regeneration, it’s necessary to find the right prop pitch, which can be adjusted remotely from HQ back in Europe. That’s freaky. You do need to sail at 8 knots for the best regen so it may be wise to put a generator on just so you can keep the fridge, stereo, and fans on all the time without worrying about the lithium batteries. With all the focus on electric propulsion, this is a good step in the right direction. I’m not sure the future is here, but it’s definitely on its way.

Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54 Groupe Beneteau saw an opportunity to add a little thrill to any cruising adventure, so they repurposed their First 53 racer (introduced in Annapolis just last year). With a few fashionable changes, the French builder reworked her into the new Oceanis Yacht 54, the new entry level of Beneteau’s swanky Oceanis Yacht line. The result is a performance cruiser that sails like a witch and looks like a grande dame. In 17 knots of true wind, we made 9.1 knots at 65 degrees apparent wind angle. When we hoisted the Code 0 and fell off to a beam reach, we topped out at 10.2 knots and we never reefed. Given her racing origins, it’s no surprise that the Oceanis Yacht 54 is an exciting boat that delivers a fast cruise. With the beautifully redesigned cockpit and depowered rig, she’s classy and a bit tamer for cruisers. She’s slippery and exhilarating; the one thing an owner will never be with this yacht, is bored.

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Talk of the Dock

5 BOATS MAKING BIG NEWS Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 If you want a cruiser that will fit your slip and your budget, Beneteau also introduced the Oceanis 40.1. This is a boat that feels much bigger both above deck and below, and no wonder, her LOA is actually just over 42 feet. A long chine creates a massive interior volume where you can opt for two cabins, a single head, and a workshop, or three cabins and two heads if you’re trying to pack in a crowd. I’d not opt for the forward head because it makes the master suite cramped, but it’s likely that this layout will be popular in charter. With twin rudders, this little boat tracks well upwind and backs up straight. You can supersize the rig for more performance, and the transom drops down to elongate the cockpit and provide easy access to the water. With six people on our test sail, we never felt squeezed in as we zipped around at nearly 7.5 knots.

Dufour 530 When size matters, check out the new Felcidesigned Dufour 530. You can customize this massive model to your heart’s delight: 3-5 cabins, an outdoor galley, and your choice of rigs. In fact, there are three packages of options and basics to get you started: “Easy” is for simplicity and most likely charter, “Ocean” is for serious distance cruisers, and “Performance” is for racers who want more sail area and a deeper keel with a bulb. Our test boat had the outdoor galley aft between the twin helms. When not in use, it’s topped by a cushion and becomes the place to hang out. If you’d rather lounge out of the way, there are two more sunpads on the foredeck. In 20 knots, this boat was downright regal and moved like a Cadillac, always on her feet but reeling off the knots.

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BB OO AA TT S S+ S E M I N A R S

10' Navigator

14' Whitehall Specifications

The Navigator is a great knockabout small boat. Fun to row and sail, it makes an excellent ship-to-shore yacht tender. It’s also light enough for cartop transport—handy for boating on inland lakes and the inner harbor.

LOA: 10'0" Beam: 54" Displacement: Fiberglass, 90 lbs Kevlar/Composite, 75 lbs Sail Area: Std. Main, 45 sq. ft. Optional Main, 57 sq. ft. High Performance Option

(main + Jib): 75 sq. ft.

Gig Harbor, WA • www.ghboats.com

Specifications LOA: 14'5" Beam: 55" Displacement:

Fiberglass, 145 lbs Kevlar/Composite, 125 lbs

Sail Area: The Whitehall is a classic design to row and sail. Used for work and recreation in the Harbor at the turn of the century to transport goods and people, it has a long waterline and flowing lines – amazingly fast for a small boat.

Main: 57 sq. ft. Jib, 28 sq. ft. Optional Genoa, 32 sq. ft.

Model-Specific Options: • Sliding Rowing Seat

Gig Harbor, WA • www.ghboats.com

Compact Day Sailor

The Com-Pac Legacy & Legacy Sport

12' Point Defiance Specifications

LOA: 11'11" Beam: 58" Displacement: Fiberglass, 155 lbs Kevlar/Composite, 130 lbs Based on a historical design from Sail Area: Point Defiance, WA, this versatile Main: 57 sq. ft. boat is equally enjoyable as a Jib, 28 sq. ft. standalone daysailer or a shipOptional Genoa, 32 sq. ft. to-shore yacht tender. It can be rowed either tandem or solo, is a delight to sail, and can easily accept an outboard motor to make an excellent fishing boat. Gig Harbor, WA • www.ghboats.com

The Legacy Sport is a daysailer that offers all the fun of the popular Com-Pac Legacy, but downsizes the cabin to a small forward storage area in order to make room for a bigger 9’ cockpit. The bigger cockpit means more room to stretch out and more room for family and friends. Comes ready to sail with all the goodies Com-Pac Yachts are known for!

COM-PAC YACHTS - CLEARWATER, FL • COM-PACYACHTS.COM

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Specifications Length..................... 16’6”" Draft up/down........16”/3’6" Beam. . ........................6’0"’ Displacement...... 1,000 lbs Ballast ������������������� 400 lbs Sail Area ������������ 130 sq. ft. Mast Height ������������������22’

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BOATS + SEMINARS Compact Daysailor

The Com-Pac Horizon Day Cat

17' Salish Voyager

Specifications Length..................... 20’0”" Draft up/down....... 2'2”/5’0" Beam. . ........................8’4"’ Displacement...... 2,500 lbs

Specifications

The newest addition to our fleet, the 17’ Salish Voyager is an expedition-worthy small craft made for adventure. With smooth-as-butter rowing, nimble sailing, optional tandem rowing seats, and tons of dry storage, this might just be the best-performing boat we’ve ever made.

LOA: 16'11" Beam: 67" Displacement: 420 lbs Sail Area: 99 sq. ft. Model-Specific Options: • Tandem sliding seats

The The Horizon Day Cat is a classic daysailer with room for you and your friends. A real Cape Cod cat with a shallow fin keel for added stability and windward performance. She has a 10’4” cockpit, offering plenty of room to stretch out and relax.

(one comes standard)

• Storage hatches • Front hatch • Floor hatch

Gig Harbor, WA • www.ghboats.com

COM-PAC YACHTS - CLEARWATER, FL • COM-PACYACHTS.COM

Compact Cruiser

Compact Cruiser

The Com-Pac Eclipse

The Com-Pac 23

Specifications Length..................... 21’4”" Draft up/down.......1’6”/5’2" Beam. . ........................7’4"’ Displacement...... 2,200 lbs

Specifications Length.................... 23’11”" Draft........................... 2’3" Beam. . ........................ 8'0"’ Displacement...... 3,000 lbs

The Eclipse’s unique styling is a modern approach to traditional appearance. Designed for ease of trailering and of set up with the Mastendr™ System. This sloop from Hutchins has been designed with shallow 18” draft board up and 62” board down. The plum shallow entry bow allows this sloop to guide thru the roughest of sea with comfort.

The Com-Pac 23/IV offers accommodations and equipment which make her an exceptional yacht. With a two cabin layout, a standard equipment hide-A-way galley, and shoal draft keel developed from NASA low-drag, high lift wing sections, the ComPac 23/IV is ready for extended cruising.

COM-PAC YACHTS - CLEARWATER, FL • COM-PACYACHTS.COM

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COM-PAC YACHTS - CLEARWATER, FL • COM-PACYACHTS.COM

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BUILDERS

17' – 45'

RANGER TUG R-25

Built with the advanced Torqeedo electric propulsions system, the yacht has a two-year warranty on all electric systems as well as battery capacity warrantied for 8 years. Two hybrid models are available, the (IE) inboard electric and (GE) generator electric.

SPECIFICATIONS

The Ranger Tugs R-25 is brand new for 2020! The new R-25 is a feature-packed cruiser designed for comfort, ease of use, and FUN! You’ll find the Ranger Tugs DNA built into every facet of the R-25’s thoughtful design.

LOA (motor down) 28’5" Length on Trailer 34'6" Draft 34" Beam 8'6"’ Dry Weight 5,600 lbs Power Yamaha F250 Fuel 99 USG Fresh Water 34 USG Bridge Clearance 8'6" (mast down)

Ranger Tugs • KENT, WA • www.RangerTugs.com

DIMENSIONS LOA: 44' Beam: 21' Max. Draft: 3.5' Bridge Clearance: 22' Dry Weight: 22,000 lbs FUEL SYSTEM 7kW SOLAR ARRAY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • 90+ kWh of stored power • Marinized BMW batteries • 55kW HV Torqeedo Motor • Efficient 24V System • 110V appliances

TOTAL POWER: 160 HP Engine 1 Brand: Torqeedo Model: Deep Blue KW Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Electric Power: 80hp Engine 1 Brand: Volvo Model: Yanmar Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Diesel Power: 220hp

Engine 2 Brand: Torqeedo Model: Deep Blue KW Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Electric Power: 80hp

TOTAL POWER: 300 HP Engine 2 Brand: Torqeedo Model: Deep Blue KW Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Electric Power: 80hp

NovaLuxe Yacht Company • New York, NY • www.NovaLuxeYachts.com

Leopard 45

Save $10,000 on New Colgate 26

DIMENSIONS + DETAILS

LOA: 45 ft 0 in / 13.72 m LWL: 42 ft 11 in / 13.07 m Draft: 4 ft 11 in / 1.5 m Beam: 24 ft 2 in / 7.36 m Displacement: 32849 lbs / 14900 kg Power: 2 x Yanmar Diesel 45HP Fuel: 185 gal / 700 L Fresh Water: 206 gal / 780 L Mast Height: 70 ft 0 in / 21.34 m

starting at

$123,456,789.00

A Sailboat for All Reasons. Only $44,950 after Boat Show Savings!

To learn more, contact:

Steve Colgate 239-985-7505

www.colgate26.com

The Leopard 45 sailing catamaran is a true blue-water cruiser. This cat features lovely interior accommadations and a sleek exterior. And, now it offers an innovative hardtop lounge, a feature first launched on the award-winning Leopard 50! The lounge includes a seating area, sunbed, and table. with access to the lounge by floating stairs leading up from the aft cockpit. The helm station remains well-protected and is thoughtfully integrated into the cockpit and the rest of the boat. Leopard Catamarans • FRANCE • www.LEOPARDcatamarans.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS Boat Show Seminar Series:

The 5-Step Plan to Your Sailing Dreams

Selene 45

THE PASSAGE MAKER

With Captain Jeff Grossman and Captain Jean Levine, AMS

SPECIFICATIONS LOA 48’5” LWL 43’11” Draft 5’6” 15’8” Beam Power 330-hp diesel The smallest model of the 1000 USG Fuel popular and proven Selene Fresh Water 210 USG Pilothouse Trawler line. Designed Displacement 62,828 lbs and built like her larger sisters, 9 knots Speed she is a serious passage-maker, and a brilliant coastwise cruiser.

Over 500 couples have successfully followed this 5 Step Plan and are cruising around the globe from Fiji to the Bahamas! Those that “Just Went” without planning or training and often did not succeed: lost their dream, a lot of money, got divorced, lost the boat, or died, and they don’t write books or articles. It doesn’t take much of an investment in time and dollars to get the basics so that you can have a happy and fun experience! Step One: Learning sailing and the lifestyle • Learning vacation on a yacht with experienced sailors, a taste of what life is like on a cruising boat. • Training and certifications courses. Select a school close to home, or one that is near the area you are most likely to do your first charters. • There is nothing that can replace time on the water sailing to learn to feel and sense the environment of wind and wave. Join a local sailing club, join “beer can regattas” (not so serious fun races) where pick up crew are always welcome. • Or consider purchasing a small day sailor as a first step. Step Two: Cruising Experience • Many students completing their Bareboat Charter course find they are not yet comfortable as Captains completely on their own. Join a flotilla for your first charter, you have the advantage of having guides and the other boats to help you with any issues that may arise on your first time sailing as a Captain on your own boat. • Then Bareboat charter on your own in easy locales. The BVIs is where most charter first. Chartering also provides the opportunity to sail different types of boats and learn which design features best fit your desired style of cruising.

continued on page 25...

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Selene Yachts • China • www.SeleneOceanYachts.com

EXCESS 12 C ATA M A R A N

SPECIFICATIONS LOA 38’6” LWL 38’ Draft 4’5” Beam 22’1” Displacement 22,712 lbs Power Two 29-hp Yanmar diesel Fuel 2 x 53 USG tanks 79 USG Fresh Water Mast Height 59’11” The new Excess 12 aft twin-helm station allows for a view of the sails, the sea, and the bows, allowing for easy sail trimming and, thanks to a sliding stainless steel ladder, easy access to the roof area. Excess Catamarans • www.Excess-Catamarans.com

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BUILDERS

45' – 48'

Passport Voyager 470 Center Cockpit

Specifications

In a class of its own, with voluminous accommodations, head-turning design, and exceptional sailing and safety characteristics. Available with two or three staterooms.

Length Overal 47'0" Length at Waterline 39'1" Beam 14'2" Draft (deep) 6'9" Draft (shoal) 5'7" Ballast 11,000 lbs. Displacement 30,611 lbs. Sail Area: Furling Main 1,020 sq.ft.

Passport Yachts – USA – www.PassportYachts.com

Hylas H48

SPECIFICATIONS

LOA: 48’0″ (14.63 m) LWL: 42’0″ ( 12.80m) BEAM: 14’6” (4.42m) DRAFT: 6’6″ (1.98m) DISPLACEMENT: 35,360 lbs (16,039 kg) WATER TANK: 119 gal (451 L) FUEL TANK: 290 gal (1,100 L) ENGINE: Yanmar (75 hp) CE : Category A Ocean NAVAL ARCHITECT: Bill Dixon

The Five-Step Plan continued... Step Three: Buying a Boat • By now you should have good start on what your tastes are. Next learn more about boat construction and design and try as many different types of boats as possible. Try to sail on at least four different manufactures boats to compare designs, performance, and comfort. • Take your time on the shopping, it should be fun! Select a Buyers Broker to represent your interests and to offer experience in the process and communicating with other brokers. The only cost to you is commitment since your Buyers Broker’s pay comes from the Sellers commission. A Buyers Broker is not tied to any particular boat; they find the one that best fits your needs. Step Four: Learning your boat • Reserve 10% -20% of your boat budget for after purchase for repairs, equipment and training. • Modern systems are complex and there are a wide variety on the market. Work with experienced consultants who can provide in depth training. • For your first passage, find someone who has both experience and are good patient communicators. So when you arrive at your destination, you feel confident in operating, sailing, and maintaining your boat for your future cruising goals. Step Five: Taking it to the Next Level, Invest in additional Training • Advanced navigation, night sailing, heavier weather courses separate the casual sailors from those looking to move forward with sailing as a lifestyle and long distance cruising. • Sign on as delivery crew on a voyage of more than hundred miles, gain valuable sea time and experience life underway nonstop for many days at a time. Final Step: Sunset cocktails in the cockpit of your new cruising home in some exotic location! Learn more at www.TwoCanSail.com

A Boat of the Year when first launched in 2019 and production hasn't stopped since. This Bill Dixon design is an excellent choice for short-handed bluewater sailing. A self tacking staysail, power genoa and main furling with all controls within easy reach of the helm. The interior volume also appears to exceed the dimensions of the yacht. Hylas Yachts • Taiwan • www.HylasYachts.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS Passport Voyager 480 Aft Cockpit

Electric motors paired with a solar array offer a boating experience ideal for cruisers. Two hybrid models are available, the (IE) inboard electric and (GE) generator electric. Run the house load for days without ever running a generator.

Specifications

Designed for the cruising family who appreciates and requires safety, comfort, and abundant storage. Expect ease of sailing and exceptional turns of speed.

Length Overall 48.5' Length at Waterline 44' Beam 15.15’ Draft Shoa 5'7” Draft Deep 6'6” Ballast 14,000 lbs. Displacement 38,500 lbs. Fuel Capacity 300 US gal. Water Capacity 200 US gal. Sail Area: Standard Rig 1,452 sq.ft. Tall Rig 1,766 sq.ft.

Passport Yachts – USA – www.PassportYachts.com

DIMENSIONS LOA: 48'6" Beam: 24' Max. Draft: 3.25' Bridge Clearance: 22' Dry Weight: 29,000 lbs FUEL SYSTEM 10kW SOLAR ARRAY

TOTAL POWER: 300 HP Engine 1 Brand: Torqeedo Model: Deep Blue 100kW Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Electric Power: 150hp

Engine 1 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM • 90+ kWh of stored power Brand: Volvo • BMW i3 Lithium Ion batteriesModel: Penta D4 • C-Zone Digital Control SystemType: Inboard Fuel Type: Diesel • 15kW inverter Power: 300hp • Induction cooktops

NovaLuxe Yacht Company • New York, NY • www.NovaLuxeYachts.com

Specifications

SPECIFICATIONS

LOA: 49’2″ (15 m) LWL: 45′ 9″ (14 m) BEAM: 13’6″ (4.12 m) DRAFT: 3’2″ (1 m ) FUEL CAPACITY: 900 litres WATER TANKAGE: 185 gal (720 L) BLACK TANK CAPACITY: 25.10 gal (95 L) DISPLACEMENT: 11.5 tonnes ENGINE: Twin 370hp Yanmar CABINS: 2 SLEEPING CAPACITY: 7

Spacious, fuel efficient, plenty of power and exceptional craftsmanship. One level of entertaining from helm to swim platform. Grill, day heads, cockpit refrigeration, sun lounger, galley, dinette and helm can all open up to form a bright and inclusive environment. The finest handcrafted quality owners expect from Hylas. Two cabins and 1 head on lower level.

Hylas Yachts • Taiwan • www.HylasYachts.com

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TOTAL POWER: 450 HP Engine 2 Brand: Torqeedo Model: Deep Blue KW Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Electric Power: 150hp

GARCIA EXPLORATION 52

Hylas M49

26

Engine 2 Brand: Torqeedo Model: Deep Blue 100kW Type: Inboard Fuel Type: Electric Power: 150hp

For more than 40 years, Garcia Yachts has been building exceptional boats for discovering both the northernmost latitudes and the warmest seas. More than 300 ocean cruising boats have emerged from their workshops, making Garcia a name and a benchmark known throughout the world.

LOA 54.63’ LWL 47.87’ Draft (shl/dp) 4.17’/9.51’ Beam 15.75’ Displacement 43,000 lbs Power 110-hp diesel Fuel 317 USG Fresh Water 232 USG Ballast 14,500 lbs

GARCIA yachts • FRANCE • WWW.GARCIAYACHTS.COM

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BUILDERS

48' – 54'

Royal Cape Catamarans Majestic 530

Sail Plan & Specs

Specifications

LOA 16.23 m / 53’ LWL 15 m / 49’ Draft 1.4 m / 4’6” Beam 8.6 m / 28’ Weight 20 T / 44,092 lbs Engines Two 80-hp Yanmar Fuel 1200 L / 317 Gal Fresh Water 1000 L / 264 Gal Holding Tanks 400L / 119 Gal

Gerry Douglas has designed most of Catalinas since the 70s, and this is his crowning achievement. Oh, and this is the first boat Lats & Atts has awarded “New Design of the Year.” The title is well deserved.

LOA 56’2” LWL 50’6” Draft (Bulb Keel) 6’6” Beam 15’6” Displacement 42,500 lbs Power Yanmar Turbo 110 Fuel 147 USG Fresh Water 201 USG Ballast Ratio 32% Lighting All LED

The Majestic 530 has been designed for the cruising lifestyle— and built for safety, space, and style. This South African catamaran has six double en-suite cabins, with a galley top, and spacious salon and cockpit areas. In all, this is a cruiser’s catamaran, made to go the distance in comfort and style. Royal Cape Catamarans • www.RoyalCapeCatamarans.com

Catalina Yachts // USA // www.CatalinaYachts.com

Royal Royal Cape Cape Catamarans Catamarans Majestic 530 Fly

SUMMIT 54'

SPECIFICATIONS Specifications

LOA 16.23 m / 53’ LWL 15 m / 49’ Draft 1.4 m / 4’6” Beam 8.6 m / 28’ Weight 22.5 T / 44,092 lbs Engines Two 80-hp Yanmar Fuel 1200 L / 317 Gal Fresh Water 1000 L / 264 Gal Holding Tanks 400L / 119 Gal

SUMMIT MotorYachts’ flagship Summit 54’ is the celebrated result of two legendary design teams: the experts at KadeyKrogen Yachts and luxury designer, Michael Peters.

LOA 58’5” LWL 48’10” Draft 3’7” Beam 15’10” 55,400 lbs Displacement Power Twin 542-hp Cummins 750 USG Fuel Fresh Water 215 USG Bridge Clearance (w arch) 23’4”

The Majestic fly-bridge version of the Royal Cape Catamaran range offers an amazing panoramic view and wonderful outdoor living and entertaining area. It includes all of the successful features of the Majestic 530 including the spacious, secure, dry & well laid out engine bays, which allow for ease of access and great storage. Royal Cape Catamarans • www.RoyalCapeCatamarans.com

Seattle, WA • www.SummitMotorYachts.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS Boat Show Seminar Series:

Why a Sailing School?

Passport Vista 545 Center Cockpit

By Steve & Doris Colgate

Specifications

Stay the course. How many times have we heard that phrase? What does it mean? Well we found out the hard way in 2020. Like most everyone, we want to put 2020 in the rearview and look forward to a new normal way of life, enjoying the sailing and boating lifestyle with our family and friends in 2021 and beyond. Teaching others how to sail, race and bareboat charter is more than just our livelihood. It’s our way of life. Despite the challenges we faced together in 2020, the sailing and boating lifestyle continues to bring joy and happiness. Led by founder/co-owners Steve and Doris Colgate still today, Offshore Sailing School has weathered several recessions, and more than a few catastrophic hurricanes affecting our business, and now a global pandemic. Yet, we’ve “stayed the course” for 56+ years, with more than 150,000 graduates, and a lifetime of memories hosting and enjoying Colgate Sailing Adventures® flotilla vacations all around the world! We remain committed to continue sharing our love of sailing and boating. Here are some things we are grateful for and what we see on the horizon as we look ahead. We’re grateful for a committed team at our Fort Myers, Florida, HQ and our branch managers and instructors on Captiva Island, Fort Myers Beach, Cape Coral, and St. Petersburg in Florida; Tortola and Scrub Island in the British Virgin Islands. We are grateful for the health of our loved ones, and the amazing services provided by our medical frontline workers, business and community partners with the Chambers of Commerce and Visitor & Convention Bureaus, sailing and boating industry organizations. Frankly, we’re grateful for Zoom and Microsoft Teams that allowed us to virtually train, educate, motivate, and remain engaged with our colleagues and constituents. We are most grateful to hundreds of confirmed students in Learn to Sail courses, Fast Track® to Cruising sail and power

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This stunning new yacht features a Solent rig sail plan with a self-tending jib and a reverse transom for ease of boarding. Her spacious accommodations make spending an extended time aboard a relaxing experience.

Length Overall 54.5' Length at Waterline 45.47' Beam 15.15’ Draft Shoal 5'7” Draft Deep 6'6” Ballast 14,700 lbs. Displacement 38,500 lbs. Fuel Capacity 250 US gal. Water Capacity 250 US gal. Sail Area: Standard Rig 1,325 sq.ft. Tall Rig 1,651 sq.ft.

Passport Yachts – USA – www.PassportYachts.com

Hylas H57

SPECIFICATIONS

LOA: 56’10″ (17.328 m) LWL: 52’9″ ( 16.138m) BEAM: 17’0” (5.20m) SHOAL DRAFT: 6’5″ (1.95m) DEEP DRAFT: 8’2” (2.5m) DISPLACEMENT: 57,685 lbs (29,000 kg) WATER TANK: 238 gal (901 L) FUEL TANK: 264 gal (999 L) SAIL AREA: 1,636 sq. ft (152 m²) ENGINE: VOLVO (Penta 150 hp) NAVAL ARCHITECT: Bill Dixon Bill Dixon has found the perfect balance of performance cruiser and luxurious living. Under way she is comfortable, responsive and easy to manage when short handed. The apres sail experience is enhanced by the unique features of the expansive aft deck. The hard top cover allows alfresco dining for 8. Below is bright, spacious and fully customizable.

Hylas Yachts • Taiwan • www.HylasYachts.com

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BUILDERS

54' – 57'

Royal Cape Catamarans Majestic 570

Specifications

LOA 17.38 m / 57’ LWL 16.42 m / 53.87’ Draft 1.4 m / 4’7” Beam 8.6 m / 28’ Weight 21 T / 47,000 lbs Engines Two 80-hp Yanmar Fuel 1200 L / 317 Gal Fresh Water 1000 L / 264 Gal Holding Tanks 400L / 119 Gal The Majestic 570 is extremely well equipped with quality appliances, communication and navigation systems. Superior battery, water and fuel capacity, plus extendable solar panels are ideal for long range voyagers. This Majestic also offers considerably more than the competition and is exceptional value!

Why a Sailing School? continued...

courses, and annual Performance Race Week, and Colgate Sailing Adventures® flotilla participants who chose to “stay the course” and reschedule their activities with us next year. 2021 is going to be one busy year! Our Florida instructors have been busier than ever. If we had a couple more catamarans available in Florida, they would be full too. Our Private Courses and family “buy the boat” bookings have increased, understandably. Looking ahead, we selected Waterline Systems of Rhode Island and North Carolina to build and service our Colgate 26 sailboat. In 2021, we’re hosting at least six more amazing Colgate Sailing Adventures® flotilla trips, setting sail in Belize, Bahamas, the Greek Islands, The Seychelles, Tahiti, the British Virgin Islands, and destinations in the U.S. to be announced in 2021. We’ll be celebrating Offshore Sailing School’s 20th Annual Performance Race Week with North U. coaches on Fort Myers Beach, Florida, in April 2021. And look for the Colgates’ memoirs to be published in 2021 too!

Our special offers for certain courses change, so call 888-851-0381 to inquire today, or email Sail@OffshoreSailing.com. Our sails are full and we’re heading out. We’ll see you soon in “The Greatest Classroom in the World!®”

Royal Cape Catamarans • www.RoyalCapeCatamarans.com

Royal Royal Cape Cape Catamarans Catamarans Majestic 570 Fly

For those unafraid of the storm. Specifications

100% WATERPROOF DRY PACK THAT FLOATS.™

LOA 17.38 m / 57’ LWL 16.42 m / 53.87’ Draft 1.4 m / 4’7” Beam 8.6 m / 28’ Weight 23.5 T / 47,000 lbs Engines Two 80-hp Yanmar Fuel 1200 L / 317 Gal Fresh Water 1000 L / 264 Gal Holding Tanks 400L / 119 Gal The new Majestic 570 Fly offers all of the features of the new Majestic 530 plus the “WOW” factor of the added flybridge, providing incredible panoramic 360-degree views. The Majestic 570 is a unique, classic blue-water cruiser, amazing island-hopper and superb charter vessel – a winner and exceptional value for a cruising family.

PROMO CODE - LA20 UGOWEAR.COM

Royal Cape Catamarans • www.RoyalCapeCatamarans.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS

BUILDERS

60' – 62'

Hylas H60

SPECIFICATIONS

LOA: 59’2″ (18.05 m) LWL: 54’9″ ( 16.74 m) BEAM: 17’3” (5.26 m) SHOAL DRAFT: 6’6″ (2.0 m) DEEP DRAFT: 8’10” (2.7 m) DISPLACEMENT: 65,256 lbs (29,600 kg) WATER TANK: 391 gal (1,480 L) FUEL TANK: 370 gal (1,400 L) SAIL AREA: 1,827 sq. ft (169.73 m²) ENGINE: VOLVO (D3 150 hp) NAVAL ARCHITECT: Germán Frers INTERIOR DESIGN: Hot Lab

Every inch is a designer’s masterpiece. Germán Frers has given her sweeping lines, clean decks and excellent performance. The interior is a Hot Lab creation that beautifully balances form and functionality. The Hylas workmanship shines through and exudes quality throughout. Hylas Yachts • Taiwan • www.HylasYachts.com

Passport Vista 615 Twin Cockpit

Beneteau Oceanis 30.1 The Oceanis 30.1 is the smallest yacht in Beneteau’s cruising range but makes up for it with it’s incredible living space, spacious two cabins, and increased headroom. The aft beam has space for two steering wheels, freeing up cockpit space.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

Bavaria Vida 33

Specifications

Designed by Bill Dixon to include the features of much larger yachts while being easily handled by a cruising couple. Expect excellent speed and unparrelled comfort.

Length Overall 61’ 5” Length at Waterline 53’ Beam 17’ 6” Draft Deep 7' 11" Draft Shoal 6’ 6” Ballast 22,000 lbs. Displacement 67,776 lbs. Fuel Capacity 510 US gal Water Capacity 25 US gal Sail Area 1,737 sq.ft.

Passport Yachts – USA – www.PassportYachts.com

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Specifications:

New from BAVARIA, their first daycruiser with outboard engines. The Vida 33 has a modern and strong design, that combines functional details and customization. This beauty comes in two versions, the Bavaria Vida 33 Open and the Bavaria Vida 33 Hardtop.

LOA 36'4” LWL 36'2” Draft 3'1" Beam 11'3” Power 150-300 hp Mercury Fuel 184 gal. Water 53 gal.

www.SJYACHTS.com

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BROKERS

30' – 36'

Beneteau Swift Trawler 35

2020

True North 34 $439,000 The accommodations plan is designed for adventurous people who want to experience nature – comfortably. The main living spaces (including galley) are all on one level, and connect seamlessly to the spacious cockpit in the stern.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 34'9 BEAM: 12'4” DRAFT: 2'0" DRAFT w enginge: 2'9" DISPLACEMENT: 11,250 lbs FUEL: 300 gals WATER: 85 gals ENGINE HP: Twin 300

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

CARLA ANNE

SINALOA

1999 36' Catalina MKII

2004 Catalina 350 $105,000 Whether you want a quiet/intimate sail or to bring guests along there are plenty of accommodations with the forward and aft cabins along with settee in the main salon that folds down into a bed.

The Swift Trawler 35 is stylishly modern with valuable new spaces indoors and gives you an incredible feeling of safety on board. The flybridge easily seats six people along with an optional fridge, a driving station with repeated navigation instruments, a rotating driver’s seat, and a double sun-lounger at the stern. Efficient, even at high speed.

$89,000

KEY SPECS

LOA: 35'5” BEAM: 12'11” DRAFT: 6’8" DISPLACEMENT: 12,937 lbs BALLAST: 5,137 lbs FUEL: 39 gals WATER: 88 gals ENGINE HP: 30

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

The Catalina 36 Mark II hits a sweet spot among weekend cruisers. It's big enough to be comfortable and capable, but small enough to easily manage it shorthanded. And, it comes at a reasonable price.

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

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KEY SPECS

LOA: 36'0” BEAM: 11'11” DRAFT: 5'1" DISPLACEMENT: 14,300 lbs BALLAST: 6,800 lbs FUEL: 25 gals WATER: 72 gals ENGINE HP: 35

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BOATS + SEMINARS Boat Show Seminar Series:

Take Your Business Aboard By Richard Anderson

BUSTIN LOOSE 2002 Sydney 38 $80 ,000 Veteran sailor, licensed captain, and world cruiser, Richard Anderson, owner of Sea-Tech Systems, will walk you through the communication technologies and solutions you need to run your business while living the cruising life. Are you itching to go cruising but not ready to give up the business you’ve laboriously infused with your time and money? Don’t wait until retirement to go cruising — take your business with you. In this comprehensive session, Richard will provide solutions to your most pressing concerns about working while cruising, such as:

This magnificent Sydney 38 is a serious racer that comes with some bragging rights. BUSTIN LOOSE raced weekly in Monterey in all series and specialty races including the Spinnaker Cups, which she won class and overall.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 38'6"” BEAM: 12'4” DRAFT: 8'8" DISPLACEMENT: 12,260 lbs BALLAST: 4,225 lbs FUEL: 26 gals WATER: 2 x 52 gals ENGINE HP: 24

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

• Managing the harsh reality of mobile internet • Time management • Voice communications • Handling postal mail (use a mail scanning service!) • Customer support • Retail fulfillment • Shipping • Bookkeeping • and more! Following your cruising dreams doesn’t mean you can’t work while cruising, it just requires the right preparation. Inevitably, issues can and will arise — and the problem of needing to conduct business and not being able to connect can become very real, very fast. The important thing is to prepare properly and outfit your boat with communication solutions that will fit your needs. Proper preparation will allow you to meet your day-to-day business obligations head-on, and then enjoy the cruising that you love so much. When you are not in a marina (and sometimes even when you are), connectivity can be a challenge. The ability to connect when you need to will vary depending on where in the world you are. But there are solutions, and with the right preparedness, you can be ready for any number of obstacles that might pop up while cruising. Sea-Tech Systems has product solutions available to suit every type of cruiser. You need to solve a wide variety of scenarios, based on your own cruising experiences, and find the path to bring your

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AOLANI

2015 38' Catalina 385 $249,900 Lead keels, long travelers for precise sail control, and lengthy inboard genoa tracks so the sail plan is balanced in all wind conditions are just a few of the many design features that sets the Catalina 385 apart from other yachts.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 39’2” BEAM: 13’1” DRAFT: 6’10" DISPLACEMENT: 19,000 lbs BALLAST: 6,800 lbs FUEL: 40 gals WATER: 100 gals ENGINE HP: 40

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

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BROKERS

38' Take Your Business Aboard continued...

DUCELLA 2015 Hanse 385 $199,000 The Hanse 385 is the 4th new model out of the new Hanse family of Hanse dynamic cruisers, characterized by the optimum space efficiency and comfort. as well as outstanding cruising performances.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 37'5” BEAM: 12'7” DRAFT: 5'5" DISPLACEMENT: 17,417 lbs BALLAST: 11,012 lbs FUEL: 42 gals WATER: 84 gals ENGINE HP: 30

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

business aboard, as well as what needs to be learned and the finding solutions for your own type of business. From long-range Wi-Fi and cellular “boosters” to cellular and Wi-Fi routers, we’ve found solutions for every connectivity and connection need. Sea-Tech’s own Narwhal System integrates Wi-Fi, cellular, and satellite into a single system with automatic switching. You need to consider geo obstructions, light voice and email, web browsing needs, data usage, and there are many customer solution success stories. If you’ve been dreaming of cruising but can’t step away from the demands of their business, It is possible. For a “business aboard” scenario, you need detailed solutions that have solved these issues which have worked for Sea-Tech customers. Whatever your field — or whatever space you aspire to work in — with the right planning and management, chances are you CAN turn it into a cruising-friendly business. SeaTech can help with the challenges often presented by specific businesses and how they can be handled cruising, such as operating in the retail space, offering professional consulting services, and working in software development. Let us help you “Take Your Business Aboard” and find out just how to bring your business along while cruising.

For more, visit us at www.Sea-Tech.com

Beneteau Oceanis 38.1 With twin rudders, a mast positioned further aft, and optimized sail plans, the Oceanis 38.1 delivers excellent performance and offers incredible stability underway. A redesigned deck plan gives the boat a sleeker profile while maintaining the cruising features of the cockpit completely free of maneuvers under sail.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

2003 39' Beneteau 393

Santa Maria

$

PRICED TO SELL

$74,500

This 2003 Beneteau 393 offers a spacious, comfortable cruising experience. Since the hurricane, she has received a replacement rig and all new standing and running rigging, upgraded Axiom Raymarine chartplotter and secondary unit. Theis cockpit is impressive, almost as wide as the maximum beam. It has a pedestal where the wheel is, and a good space for electronics. The skipper has within reach the winches of the Genoa, so it is not difficult to handle alone or with little help.

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

Catalina 385

Specifications

LOA: 39'2" LOH: 38'2" Beam: 13'1" Draft: 4'8" Mast Clearance: 54' The 385’s moderate Weight: 15,500 lbs beam is carried well aft Sail Area: 802 sq. ft. for a spacious cockpit; modest freeboard reduces Engine: 40 HP windage and a beautiful Fuel: 40 US gal hand-finished teak interior Water: 100 US gal brings it all home with classic warmth and styling that has been a trademark of Catalina for 41 years.

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BLACK SWAN 2007 Saga 409 $199,000 BLACK SWAN is an exquisite semi-custom sailboat. Designed by Tony Castro, it features a triple spreader standing rig, with a full batten Quantum Spectra mainsail and a Quantum roller reefing jib.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 40'9” BEAM: 12'6” DRAFT: 5'11" DISPLACEMENT: 18,500 lbs BALLAST: 7,300 lbs FUEL: 74 gals WATER: 110 gals ENGINE HP: 56

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

Lagoon 40

Specifications

LOA: 38'6" Beam: 22'2" Draft: 4'5" Mast Clearance: 60'5" EEC: 10,885 tons Sail Area: 861 sq. ft. Engine: 2 x 29 HP Fuel: 2 x 56 US gal Water: 76 US gal # of Berths: 4 - 12 A symbol of the new generation Lagoons, the 40 is endowed with advanced performance features and a wide choice of accommodation layouts to meet the needs of owners and large families: available in three or four cabins.

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BUILDERS

39' – 42'

Bavaria R40

Specifications:

Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 The Oceanis 40.1 distinguishes itself with a surprising amount of space on deck and volume below. The boat is available in different layouts, draughts, and rigs to meet the requirements of a variety of sailors, in terms of comfort and sailing pleasure.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

Feel the quality and experience the value of the Award Winning BAVARIA R40 ( Coupe or Fly). Large reclining area on the foredeck. Comfortable lounge seating area aft. Hydraulically lowerable bathing platform. Indoor/Outdoor living. Unique space below; 2 large staterooms each with ensuite head/separate shower.

LOA LWL Draft Beam Displ. Power Fuel Water

41’ 6” 38’ 1” 3’ 6” 13’ 1” 21,165 lbs Twin 380 hp Volvo 238 gal. 92 gal.

www.SJYACHTS.com

BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

2001 42' Island Packet 420

Beneteau Swift Trawler 41 With an aft galley, lots of storage space, and a pleasant atmosphere, the Swift Trawler 41 will appeal to anyone whose sea trips revolve around leisure activities and enjoying good company. Available in two versions, Flybridge and Sedan, it can be used for a wide range of family outings, accommodating up to eight people.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

Cajun Moon PRICED TO SELL

$ $205,500 Island Packet builds distinctive, full-keel boats that have almost a cult following. They’re solid glass, heavy cruisers that will get you there in safety and comfort. This sturdy, aft cockpit boat boasts good water and fuel tankage and a spacious two cabin, two head layout with perhaps the best master stateroom found on any boat under about 45′ today. She is fully equipped to take off on a cruise right now and is surprisingly fast both under power and sailing too.

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS Boat Show Seminar Series:

Float Your Boat More Easily with Private Charters

Lagoon

By Captain Joe, USCG 100T, MSAR Charter captain, owner operator, s/v Chaton Mouillé

Specifications

LOA: 42' Beam: 25'3" Draft: 4'1" Mast Clearance: 67'9" EEC: 26,681 lbs Sail Area: 968 sq. ft. Engine: 2 x 45 HP Fuel: 79 US gal Water: 79 US gal # of Berths: 6 - 12 A SLEEK, MODERN DESIGN. While keeping a family resemblance and retaining the main features of the latest generation of Lagoons, it shows us a new path: unhurried evolution, a new "organic" approach, in search of harmony between living space and man.

So you want to charter your own boat? If you’ve already sorted through the all the big questions about seaworthiness, what kind of charters you want to provide, insurance, maintenance and more, then it’s time to get the word out. Now you have a story to tell. If it was as simple as hanging a ‘For Rent’ sign on your bow, the marina would be full of signs. Marketing a business is a lot like running a boat and plotting a course for happy horizons. Like sailing, where no one single thing makes you faster, it’s the combination of everything working together that does the trick. Marketing is NOT advertising; it’s the process of bringing a product to market. Advertising is simply the “Hey look at me!” part of the process, albeit a critical part. Simply put, you need to tell your story to people who care. If you’ve chosen to handle things yourself (rather than with a management company), you could spend valuable beer and boat bucks paying to get the word out about your little venture. Social media options provide a free and direct means to begin the process, if by free you have the time to invest in the process. Each platform has nuances to learn and you are by no means positioning your venture in it’s own space. One outlet that addresses this is BoaterBase™, an online marketing solution that provides a comprehensive place to present your vessel and your venture. The platform offers a beautiful multimedia

Catalina 425

Specifications

The 425 incorporates all of Catalina’s hallmark features: a functional, spacious cockpit, a comfortable, carefully detailed interior, and all the 5 Series features that have redefined the Catalina brand.

LOA: 43'6" LOH: 41'8" LOW: 39'1" Beam: 13'8" Draft: 6'8" Mast Clearance: 63'6" Weight: 17,500 lbs Sail Area: 914 sq. ft. Fuel: 56 US gal Water: 114 US gal

continued on page 37...

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BROKERS

42' – 45' BoaterBase continued...

BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

2013 45' Lagoon 450

Sandy PRICED TO SELL

$ $475,000 Unlike many Lagoon 450s, ‘Sandy’ has NEVER BEEN CHARTERED. Therefore she does not have the wear and tear, engine hours, or telltale signs of a rental. She is set up for extended blue water cruising as she is equipped with radar, satellite TV, watermaker, washing machine, generator, and air conditioning. The sellers are motivated and all reasonable offers will be considered!

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

gallery that supports native video, a place to highlight specs and features, and the ability to customize your presentation. Optionally, you can offer multiple boats and charter packages and link to online booking and payment services. Marketing features are set BoaterBase™ apart. The company calls it a “living listing”. The Logbook feature lets you share your charter adventures with all your social media outlets, websites and more. The “Follow this Boat” feature lets you build a potential list of customers, and send updates to them automatically. Your BoaterBase™ listing can even serve as a website solution, with your profile and direct contact but right in. It’s pretty good place to sell a boat, too. Of course, your listing appears on the BoaterBase™ site, where the folks there are helping to get the word out for all their customers. A single solution with an introductory rate of $9 per month is an all inclusive and economical way to tell a better story to more people, in more places.

Check it out today at www.boaterbase.com marinemotion®, inc -

providing marine industry marketing solutions

BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

2014 45' Lagoon 450F

Goat Herder PRICED TO SELL

$ $469,000 ‘Goat Herder’ has recently completed an extensive refit, with thoughtful upgrades such as all new sails, engines, water maker, rigging, hard top bimini, cushions and bluetooth sound system— this is the perfect catamaran for extended charters or an ‘off-grid’ lifestyle on the water!

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS

Catalina 445

Specifications

This all-new model from Catalina incorporates the crisp, contemporary styling that make Catalinas comfortable and secure. With a long waterline and moderate beam and freeboard, the 445 has excellent performance potential.

LOA: 44'5" LOH: 43'4" LOW: 38'4" Beam: 13'7" Draft: 6'11" Mast Clearance: 62'10" Weight: 23,500 lbs Sail Area: 856 sq. ft. Fuel: 66 US gal Water: 179 US gal

Lagoon 46

Specifications

LOA: 45'11" Beam: 25'10" Draft: 4'3" Mast Clearance: 78'8" EEC: 36,603 lbs Sail Area: 1,507 sq. ft. Engine: 2 x 45-57 HP Fuel: 2 x 137 US gal Water: 2 x 79 US gal # of Berths: 6 - 12 The Lagoon 46 combines excellent sailing performance, ease of handling with voluminous interior and exterior living spaces.

Southerly 480

Specifications:

Southerly Yachts: strong, fast, luxurious blue water yachts with the added advantage of a variable draft swing keel. Built by Discovery Yachts in the UK for 42 years. Over 1,000 boats sailing the oceans & enjoying the advantage of the swing keel. Deep draft performance & shallow draft freedom with a “breast plate of armor” under her for added protection.

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LOA LWL Draft Beam Displ. Power Fuel Water

47’ 3” 42’ 2” 5’ 8” 14’ 8” 26,323 lbs 80 hp Yanmar 66 gal. 171 gal.

Beneteau Oceanis 46.1 The Oceanis 46.1 is a major development of the line, with a shape widening to the bow, freeing up interior space without altering the performance under sail. The incredible amount of space on deck and inside, as well as the choice of fittings, set the Oceanis 46.1 apart.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS www.SJYACHTS.com

(619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

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BROKERS

44' – 48'

BIG MEDICINE

TERRĒO

1999 Beneteau 47.7

2003 Beneteau 473

$169,000

$199,000

BIG MEDICINE is sleek, and stands tall with a custom black hull and many upgrades. Bruce Farr designed the hull and powerful rig to provide excellent sailing capabilities, whether you're racing around buoys or cruising offshore.

The three stateroom Beneteau Oceanis 473 offers a spacious and comfortable interior with room to sleep up to nine with three double staterooms, a convertible dinette that sleeps two and a settee to sleep one.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 48'7” BEAM: 14'9” DRAFT: 7'8" DISPLACEMENT: 26,657 lbs BALLAST: 8,377 lbs FUEL: 63 gals WATER: 164 gals ENGINE HP: 75

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

KEY SPECS LOA: 46'9” BEAM: 14'2” DRAFT: 6'3" DISPLACEMENT: 24,277 lbs FUEL: 57 gals WATER: 4 x 55 gals ENGINE HP: 63

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

Bavaria C45

Specifications:

Beneteau Swift Trawler 47 Clever, elegant and incredibly safe, the Swift Trawler 47 will tempt you to explore places and get away from it all, in your own personal style.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

Feel the quality and experience the value of the BAVARIA C45. She stands out through an exceptionally spacious interior, individual layout and draft options for all requirements and astounding additional options for a boat of this size, such as a large dinghy garage, swim platform and a wet bar with a grill aft.

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LOA LWL Draft Beam Displ. Power Fuel Water

47’ 3” 42’ 2” 5’ 8” 14’ 8” 26,323 lbs 15 hp Yanmar 66 gal. 171 gal.

www.SJYACHTS.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS Boat Show Seminar Series:

Night Cruising Demystified

BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

1997 50' Voyage 500

By Captain Lisa Batchelor Frailey, Kinetic Sailing

Sea Chateau PRICED TO SELL

$ $379,000 What dangers lie in the murky depths? For many new and veteran boaters, the prospect of cruising at night can be daunting. As racers, cruisers and passagemakers who are also sailing instructors, Andy and I felt this was a key focus area to help our students and new cruisers expand their horizons. Getting comfortable with night cruising allows sailors and powerboaters to head offshore on longer passages, take advantage of more weather windows, cruise safely in fog, or simply enjoy an evening cruise. We found surprisingly little material on night operations in texts or reference books, so we drew on basic seamanship and watchstanding principles, a few articles by ocean passagemakers, and our training and experiences (good and bad) to pull together a variety of tips and techniques for cruising at night. In our courses and presentations we cover preparation, expectations, physiology, watchstanding, situational awareness, navigation & piloting at night. Here we’ll focus on on-deck preparation. When you plan an overnight trip in your car, you probably take a bit more care to prepare. Servicing, checking lights, reviewing a navigation plan, ensuring you have snacks and drinks readily at hand, and music to keep you engaged are a few examples of preparation items. Similarly, night cruising requires extra preparation. Before night falls, ensure your boat’s navigation lights are functional and unobstructed. Under sail, a masthead tricolor light saves energy (it uses a single bulb) and is visible at longer range offshore. Inshore, however, deck-level running lights allow other vessels to better orient themselves to you, and gauge your boat’s size. LED lights make you visible to others with far less expended battery power. A flashlight or headlamp with red lens will allow you to see instruments and line controls without burning out your night vision. It takes about 20 minutes for your night vision to readjust after an errant flash of white light photobleaches your eyes’ rhodopsin – the chemical

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‘Sea Chateau’ is one of the highly successful Voyage 500s; she has 4 Double Cabins + 4 Heads, Galley up, new engines, is fully air conditioned and includes a very successful crewed yacht charter business! The current owners of this 50′ Voyage 500 is very motivated to sell, so now is the perfect opportunity to get an up and running charter business for a fraction of the price!

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

2008 50' Voyage 500

Irie PRICED TO SELL

$ $479,000 ‘IRIE’ is a beautiful example of the Voyage 500, a capable all ocean cruising catamaran which has also become popular in the charter fleets here in the Virgin Islands as well. ‘IRIE’ shows what a top notch charter company can do in proper care and maintenance of their vessels, and is in all ways completely ready to go right now, either back into charter service or off around the world with your family onboard.

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

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BROKERS

50' – 51'

Bluewater 50 Catamaran

Specifications: LOA LWL Draft Beam Displ. Power Fuel Water

50’ 0” 48’ 9” 4’ 6” 25’ 8” 36,376 lbs Twin 57 hp Yanmar 248 gal. 182 gal.

The Discovery Bluewater 50 catamaran was conceived to provide a luxury platform for world cruising. It benefits from the legendary Discovery build quality combined with the expertise of renowned designer Bill Dixon. Custom layouts below decks offer owners the freedom to design and configure personal touches to create a truly remarkable blue water catamaran. A Yacht of the First Class! www.SJYACHTS.com

Beneteau Oceanis 51.1 The Oceanis 51.1 is equipped with a spacious cockpit, many well-positioned relaxation areas, and an aft swim platform. In the interior, the architectural choices create a generous amount of space with large hull portholes that allow for exceptional amount of natural light.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS

Night Cruising continued... responsible for low-light vision. Set your electronics to night mode – red and black instruments, and as dim as possible. Reduce your chartplotter brightness to bare minimum, and experiment with night color palettes. These measures help retain your night vision, so that you can visually scan between instruments, sails, and horizon. Scanning also shifts your focus between near to far, which helps reduce eye fatigue. For your night watch, pay special attention to deck seamanship. Have your gear at the ready in the cockpit. Position your VHF, horn and binoculars so you know exactly where to reach for them. Clear and stow excess gear, and have the offgoing withstanders’ take their jackets and water bottles below. Be consistent in your cleat knots, and have safety wraps on winches so that you can feel they are secure without looking. Mark your halyards and reefing lines so that reefing in the dark is easier (be sure not to mark with red ink, since it disappears in red light!) Well before night settles in, rig low-stretch jack lines close to your boat’s centerline, and test them! Wear your Harness or Type V PFD, and tether yourself to secure padeyes or jack lines. Practice moving around the deck with a tether. If you’re not racing, settle the boat down for the night. If conditions indicate that you may need to reef overnight – then put in the reef before dark. Be sure your jibe preventer is set if you’re sailing downwind, as disorientation at night increases the chance of an accidental jibe. Vision is only one of your five senses, so bring the others into play. Know what sounds your engine normally makes at cruising rpm; recognize the sound of an untrimmed sail. Pay attention to the smell of an upwind fishing vessel, and the feel of an abnormal vibration on the deck or rigging. If a flying fish smacks you in the face at night, try not to taste the residue. Respect the night, but do not fear it. Enjoy the cathedral of the stars! While this article just scratches the surface of night sailing, we hope you’ll join us for a course or webinar on the topic soon. Check our schedule, or contact us to learn more.

Learn more about night cruising and many other cruising and passage making topics - engage with Lisa & Andy Batchelor of Kinetic Sailing at: www.kineticsail.com or 410-474-7844

(619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS BVI YACHT SALES • CURAÇAO

2001 52' Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 52.2

Just Like That

ARETHA

PRICED TO SELL

$399,000

$ $239,000 ‘Just Like That’ is on her second long-term ownership and has been exceptionally well maintained and upgraded by her knowledgeable owner over the years. Originally bought NEW and kept in California with very little use for the first half of her life then sold to the current owner who has been solo sailing her for the past 10 years. He has continuously maintained and upgraded the vessel along the way to accommodate his solo sailing lifestyle.

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

2001 Oyster 53 A true blue-water cruising boat. A solid grand sailboat unmatched in comforts. This boat has circumnavigated the earth with a family husband and wife with three young kids.

KEY SPECS

LOA: 53'10"” BEAM: 15’3” DRAFT: 7’3" DISPLACEMENT: 49,600 lbs BALLAST: 14,010 lbs FUEL: 230 gals WATER: 198 gals ENGINE HP: 170

www.AtomicTunaYachts.com

Catalina 545

2013 Shannon 52 RDP

Specifications

MIRAMAR

Specifications

Newport, Rhode Island $975,000

Length: Beam:

14'3"

MIRAMAR, a fitting name for a yacht of this caliber, "to look at the sea". The name MIRAMAR had special meaning for the owners of this incredible Shannon, as during her extensive build and outfitting process it formed the baseline for the yacht's design.

Draft:

8'

52'

Engine:

2 x 75 HP Yanmar

Water:

160 gal

Fuel:

222 gal diesel

Holding Tank Capacity:

LOA: 56'2" LOH: 53'6" LOW: 50'6" Beam: 15'6" Bulb Keel: 6'3" Mast Clearance: 74'6" Weight: 36,000 lbs Sail Area: 1,350 sq. ft. Fuel: 130 US gal Water: 225 US gal

56 gal

sales@davidwalteryachts.com • (954) 527-0664 www.DavidWalterYachts.com

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BROKERS

52' – 60' BVI YACHT SALES • NANNY CAY, BVI

2015 57' Hanse 575

Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 54

Fortiter

The Oceanis Yacht 54 paves the way for a new generation of cruisers by reinventing the traditional central cockpit into a space that allows for freeflowing movement, ample seating areas, and safety throughout. The stunning new sailing yacht features cutting-edge technology such as the new Beneteau Ship Control.

PRICED TO SELL

$ $589,000

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com

2008 Oyster 56

MANITOU

This never-been-chartered Hanse 575 represents the pinnacle of quality yachting found in the BVI today. Few if any boats have had the good fortune here in the Caribbean to be kept in private management by their factory authorized dealers and kept always in top condition of perfection. You won’t find many other Hanse 575’s for sale that have been kept in such immaculate condition!

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

BVI YACHT SALES • DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

2016 60' Beneteau 60

Alkemia

Specifications

Sausalito, California $759,000

Length: Beam:

16'3"

Manitou offers a unique blend of performance, comfort, accommodations, and features— everything that is ever needed and desired is aboard. Nothing is compromised on her, for she is a complete package. It will be love at first sight when you lay your eyes on her.

Draft:

8'3"

56'

Engine:

160 HP Yanmar

Water:

251 gal

Fuel: Hot Water:

277 gal diesel 19.25 gal

sales@davidwalteryachts.com • (954) 527-0664 www.DavidWalterYachts.com

PRICED TO SELL

$ $589,000 ‘Alkemia’ represents what is simply the most well outfitted, best set up for voyaging example of this type of boat on the market today! All the options you could want, kept always in immaculate condition with a full time live onboard captain in charge of all her maintenance and care and operation, she is as nice as it gets, and priced to sell now! With power and elegance, this large cruising yacht will transport you beyond the realms of the joy of sailing.

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

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BOATS + SEMINARS

1999 Sundeer 60

CRAZY HORSE

BVI YACHT SALES • FORT PIERCE, FLORIDA

1989 65' Custom Cruiser

Malolo

Specifications

Annapolis, Maryland $498,000

Length:

60'

Beam:

13'7"

CRAZY HORSE is a safe modern liveaboard cruising yacht that can be sailed by a couple. Few contemporary designs can compare to her fast passagemaking capability with long waterline, moderate displacement, and manageable sail plan.

Draft:

7'5"

Engine:

88 HP Yanmar

Water:

200 gal

Fuel:

125 gal diesel

Holding Tank Capacity:

40 gal

sales@davidwalteryachts.com • (954) 527-0664 www.DavidWalterYachts.com

PRICED TO SELL

$ $159,000 ‘Malolo’ is a 65′ custom built steel cutter/cruiserdesigned and built in New Zealand to commercial specifications, this boat was made to last! Not only is she intended for durability and safety, this boat sails extremely well too, a great option for both cruising adventure or operating charter business! Between the four cabins you can comfortably sleep 9, with a total sleeping capacity of 13.

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

SIXT Y7

Beneteau Oceanis Yacht 62 The majestic Oceanis Yacht 62 is in a class of its own, with a slender profile and large wraparound portlights. Free of the usual constraints of a yacht of this size, the first, impeccably mastered yacht by BENETEAU unites many of the features normally found exclusively on semi-custom vessels. The experience is unique under sail and at anchor, with a perfect combination of power, technology and comfort.

Specifications

LOA: 66'1" Beam: 32'11" Draft: 3'9" Mast Clearance: 26'11" EEC: 106,502 lbs Engine: 2 x 340-440 HP Fuel: 4 x 363 US gal Water: 2 x 132 US gal # of Berths: 8 - 12 Imagine a haven of peace. Home away from home. A sanctuary shelter from which to explore the vastness. This is freedom. At its purest.

SOUTH COAST YACHTS (619) 224-7784 • info@scyachts.com 44 bsLA 21-47 boats + seminars - MKC.indd 44

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BROKERS

60' – 72'

2015 Hylas 70

BVI YACHT SALES • TORTOLA

1986 Custom Built 72' Sailboat

INNISFREE

Pacific Wave

Specifications

Fort Lauderdale, Florida $1,500,000

Length:

70'

Beam:

18'

INNISFREE is, without a doubt, the finest and best-equipped example of the H70 Flagship series by Hylas Yachts. This impressive yacht has enjoyed the benefit of a professionally managed maintenance program since her commissioning in April of 2015.

Draft:

8'

Engine:

260 HP Yanmar

Water:

360 gal

Fuel:

PRICED TO SELL

$ $389,000

710 gal diesel

Holding Tank Capacity:

66 gal

sales@davidwalteryachts.com • (954) 527-0664 www.DavidWalterYachts.com

'Pacific Wave' is a strongly built, superb sailing yacht which has been set up to sail quickly and easily, with few crew. Her designer interior layout is ideally suited for charter use and is exceptionally light and airy. Easily sailed by just two crew this go-anywhere, strong but high performance 72-footer is fully equipped for blue water offshore sailing. Her best charter year was 2011/12 when she worked 15 weeks and generated sales worth $221,000 USD!

BVI Yacht Sales • BVI • www.BVIYachtSales.com

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“Our boat 10 years after Coppercoat was applied, no touch ups. It’s the best thing we ever did!”

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BOATS + SEMINARS Boat Show Seminar Series:

Purchasing Your Offshore Escape Vehicle By John Neal

The dream of buying a boat and sailing to exotic islands is a powerful and exciting one and an important part of achieving that dream is selecting the right boat to take you over the horizon in safety and comfort. Here’s how to successfully go about it. It’s All About Sailing First, ensure that you enjoy sailing and living on a boat, and unless you plan on single handing, that your partner does as well. If you’re new to sailing, sailing and navigation lessons are an excellent starting point. Try a weeklong live aboard cruising/learning experience such as Offshore Sailing School’s Fast Track to Cruising or Fast Track to Passagemaking. Even better, consider a course in an area you’re interested in eventually cruising on your own. If the Caribbean is a possible destination on your own boat, you could select a Fast Track to Cruising course in the British Virgin Islands. Educate Yourself Read boat reviews, scan owner’s group websites for troublesome problems specific to certain makes or models, read about yacht design and safety. Go sailing on as many different types of vessels as possible and consider crewing on local races. Take courses on navigation, offshore passage making, marine weather, sail repair and diesel engine maintenance. If your cruising plans include ocean crossings, consider signing up for a sail-training passage where you’ll be standing watch and learning 24/7. The more time and energy you put into obtaining skills important to cruising, the better yacht selection choice you’re likely to make and the more self-sufficient you’ll likely be. Be Realistic Many people searching for their dream boat have unrealistic expectations or get fixated on specific design issues. If your plans are for serious offshore cruising, ensure that safety and seaworthiness rate higher on your priority list than in-port comfort and interior volume. Compromise is important when selecting any boat. Chances are you will not find any boat in your price range that exactly meets all your criteria, so be prepared to be flexible. Timing You should plan to purchase your boat at least a year before departure bearing in mind that it may take 6-12 months of serious shopping to find a boat that meets

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your criteria. If the boat you purchase is over 15 years old and in need of some work it can easily take 6-12 months or longer to get it offshore-ready. You’ll also want to allow time to become familiar with sailing your boat and getting accustomed to living aboard. Boat Size Planning on cruising as a couple? Then each of you must be prepared to singlehand your boat, being conscious of your abilities and limitations. Seasickness or illness may incapacitate either of you, leaving the other person to handle everything. Safety dictates a boat with manageable sails, a dependable wind vane self steering system and a powerful, dependable autopilot. If you’re planning on purchasing a boat over 42’ and aren’t as strong as you used to be, consider increasing your level of fitness and the option of selecting a boat with or adding a furling mainsail, bow thruster and possibly electric winches. This equipment adds cost, maintenance, weight and complexity but being able to easily handle your boat is important and adds to the enjoyment of cruising. Go Newer and Smaller To purchase a newer yacht that isn’t going to need an expensive, time-consuming refit, you may need to downsize your ideal size requirements. If this means purchasing a 12-year-old 38’ boat instead of a 20-30-year-old 45’-50’ boat, you will be far ahead; having more time to cruise and reducing your overall cost of ownership. Also, maintenance, insurance and moorage costs go up exponentially with the length of boat. Boat Age vs Your Age The older you are, the newer the boat you purchase should be. If you’re in your 20’s, you’ll likely feel like you have more time and energy than money. You’ll have the energy and motivation to work hard on a bare bones boat and then be keen to set sail, with or without a lot of gear that older people frequently deem necessary. If you are over 60 and inexperienced, you should consider a boat less than ten years old. Age of Boat vs Time and Cost of Ownership The older your boat is, the more time and money it will take to go cruising.

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On a boat 20+ years old, you can easily spend an additional 50% to 100% of the purchase price replacing rigging, sails, tanks, engine, and electronics and upgrading the electrical system. This refitting process frequently takes one to two years. With a boat that is new or less than ten years old much of the refit time and cost and is saved. Another good option is to purchase an older boat that has recently been refit by the seller and is ready to go. It will likely cost slightly more than comparable boats of the same age but will cost far less than outfitting an older boat that has only coastal equipment aboard. Finding Your Boat Sites like Yachtworld.com are invaluable as they cover most of the world. Bargain basement boats priced under $30,000 are easier to find on FSBO sites. If you’re within six months of purchasing and have your financing in order, you may consider using a buyer’s broker. They should have connections to potential boats that you may not be aware of and save you time by cutting through the “broker babble”. Market Trends Currently it’s a seller’s market in North America, with the very limited inventory of quality, offshorecapable boats in the under $100,000 and under $200,000. In the $350,000-$400,000 category there are amazing values on recent high-quality boats that have been priced at over $600,000 especially in Europe, North America and Australia/New Zealand. Distress Sales You may come across vessels that have recently had substantial and expensive upgrades completed yet haven’t cruised anywhere. Often these boats are the result of people who, during the refit and preparation process, have had health or financial hurdles arise or become too exhausted to go cruising. If the sellers have selected quality equipment and undergone an intelligent refit, these distress sales can represent excellent savings of time and money. It’s still imperative to get the right boat for your plans as a great deal on the wrong boat is still the wrong boat. Where to Purchase It is wise to spend considerable time researching and deciding where you most want to cruise and just as importantly, where will be an easy place to purchase and outfit a vessel. Perhaps charter in your destined cruising grounds first, at the same time research the selection and prices of boats available, boat yards and outfitting services. If you're interested in cruising specific areas before planning long passages, purchasing a boat on location may be a good choice.

For the remainder of 2020, mention that you found B&G in Latitudes & Attitudes and receive a 15% discount on labor and in-stock materials! B&G Marine Services is exactly the

partner you need to keep your cruising dream on track. They offer a multitude of services, including yacht purchase assistance, fullservice refit and maintenance work by their ABYC-certified technicians, and private yacht management, from their main base at Nanny Cay Marina in the British Virgin Islands with mobile capability along US East Coast.

To discuss your cruising dreams: Todd Patterson, Managing Director 401-324-9569 OR todd@bgbvi.com www.bgbvi.com

This article is taken from a free e-book, available at: http://www.mahina.com/book.pdf For a list of 300 offshore capable cruising boats, check out: http://www.mahina.com/forms/ BoatsToConsiderv1.19.pdf

Since 1976 John Neal professionally consulted with 10,000 sailors seeking cruising boats. His experience in the marine industry is unique; 346,000 offshore miles and 46 years worldwide ocean sailing experience plus boatbuilding, surveying and previously owning a yacht brokerage.

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Talk of the Dock

By Zuzana Prochazka

Marine Industry Innovations New Stuff in a crazy world

I’m part of a lot of judging panels in the marine industry, so I get to see some of the most innovative technology up close and firsthand. One set of prestigious awards I actually run is the National Marine Manufacturers Association Innovation Awards that are judged by marine journalists and members of Boating Writers International. These awards are featured at three boat shows, including the Miami show, the Minneapolis show (mostly pontoons and fishing craft) and IBEX, which is the International Boatbuilding Expo that is focused on the marine trade. Each year we have dozens of products and boats to evaluate—and it’s a tough call because we’re not judging the coolest products or the neatest gizmos, but actual innovation in the industry. The Miami show in February was healthy, reaching upward of 100 products and boats, but that was before the &*%$show really settled in. By September, when IBEX is usually held, the landscape had changed. The previous year, at IBEX 2019, we had 103 entries. In 2020 we had 32 products. A third may not sound like much, but given the curveballs this year has thrown at everyone, I was glad to see how many companies were still focused on R&D and pushing forward with new products for boaters. I’d like to take a look at some of the entrants that popped up at both of the recent shows. Many of the most exciting developments were in large outboards and big boat systems, neither of which is really the target for this readership of sailors and cruisers. But I’ve picked out a few that may just tickle your fancy, or at least make your boating easier and more fun.

Sahara Mk2 Bilge Pump Air locks suck – quite literally. That’s why Attwood is coming out with the Sahara Mk2 automatic bilge pump at the end of this year. Their patented X-Air impeller is engineered to force air bubbles that are trapped in the hose and underside of the pump out of the pipework. This means the pump won’t run dry and burn out, and it may make for quieter nights at anchor. Built for both freshwater and saltwater applications, the Sahara Mk2 has external mounting feet and an integrated outlet so it’s faster to install in a full 360-degree orientation and the universal mounting pattern makes replacement simple. The company’s SteadySwitch reduces cycling. According to Attwood, the switch also extends the life of the pump, which has 40% better protection against water ingress and electrolysis than the competition. Best of all, the pump has a single-hand cartridge release that you can get just about anywhere.

Retail: $110. www.attwoodmarine.com 48 bsLA 48-50 Zuzana's Awards.indd 48

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Vividia ME-610 Borescope Seeing is believing and there’s not much you won’t see in the tight spaces of an engine room when you use the new Vividia ME-610 borescope. The latest in Oasis Scientific’s lineup, this inspection camera has a joystick so the scope can articulate smoothly over 360 degrees, which is an advance over the previous and somewhat restrictive 180-degree (back and forth) angle. Much like medical endoscopes, this inspection camera is perfectly suited for diagnostics. The probe is one meter long and 6 mm in diameter and is made of a titanium alloy for high wear resistance. The camera at the tip has a sapphire protective lens which is impact- and scratch-resistant and is rated for water resistance to IP67 standard, so you can dunk it into the bilge or check out the insides of your diesel pistons. In fact, there’s just about nowhere you can’t peek whether under the engine or behind structural bulkheads. Heck, you can even use it below the waterline to see what’s fouling your rudder. The joystick is on the handle of the ME-610 and can be operated with your thumb. It also has a 3.5-inch LCD screen with a digital zoom function, so the images are large and clear. You can even record still images or a 1280x720 video and save them to an 8-gigabyte SD card to share with your mechanic or to forward to the engine manufacturer for remote troubleshooting.

Retail: $1,000. www.oasisscientific.com

SC12DC Battery Air Conditioning You may have already seen DC chillers on the market, but so far none have been able to run on 12V battery power, not to mention had the ability to heat as well as cool. Enter the SC12DC by Mabru, a self-contained marine climate control system with heating capabilities that’s perfectly suited for the needs and electrical situations of most sailboats. Equipped with variable speed, dual-coil, permanent magnet DC compressors, this little chiller can run continuously for five hours at maximum speed in South Florida weather or up to 7.5 hours on low speed at night using a single 250ah lithium battery. (For a 125Ah battery, that translates to 2.5 hours at high and four hours at low speed). The pump is noise- and vibration-free and it provides new climate control possibilities away from the dock to a whole host of smaller vessels that don’t carry a generator. Efficient and powerful, this 12,000 BTU unit is small enough to fit just about anywhere, and the brushless pressure blower can rotate up to 180° for creative installations. It features an antimicrobial copper evaporator that eliminates a host of bacteria and viruses and carries a lifetime warranty on the compressor and a 2-year warranty on the unit itself.

Retail: $5,500. www.mabrupowersystems.com Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular! bsLA 48-50 Zuzana's Awards.indd 49

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Marine Industry Innovations

Talk of the Dock Sirius Signal C-1002

Sirius recently came out with the USCG-approved “electronic flare” that can be substituted for pyrotechnic visual distress signal lights. Now they’ve improved on the original. The C-1002 is the first such distress “flare” that shines white as well as red/orange and cyan. These colors are more visible against a shoreline at night or background light clutter. It even has an infrared SOS pattern that can be picked up by overhead search and rescue aircraft. Presumably, even a satellite may be able to pick up the light’s emissions. The light generates the equivalent heat of a 20-watt, but it has a patented heat sink to keep itself cool. Like most things today, it also has an app with features like a float plan, a “check me” test, and the ability to send location coordinates.

Retail: $299. www.siriussignal.com

Karver KC 45 Winch Karver’s new KCW is a compact 2-speed winch for sailboats up to 40 feet. This trick new winch offers a high speed and a torque speed so hoisting a heavy laminated racing mainsail is a snap. Touted as the hottest winch development in 40 years, the KCW45 selftailing winch is the size of a 28 with the power of a 45. This anodized winch is only about 6x5 inches, so it won’t get in the way even on small boats. It has a safe working load of 1,850 pounds, handles rope 8-11 mm, and comes with a 5-year warranty. This is the kind of little workhorse that a small cruising boat can really put to use as a halyard winch, a primary, or even for davits to hoist a heavy tender.

Retail $1,280. www.karver-systems.com

FoulFree by OceanMax New Zealand company OceanMax has been marketing underwater coatings that help keep propellers (PropSpeed) and underwater lights (LightSpeed) free of growth. Now they’ve come up with a coating that keeps transducers clean for up to 12 months without scrubbing. The main target for FoulFree is transducers for fishfinders, but you can use it on your speedo and your depth transducer as well. The “super slippery” coating is biocide free, so it doesn’t poison marine life. It works so well because it’s too smooth for anything to attach. You can buy FoulFree as a DIY kit and apply it with the brush that’s included. Now you have something productive to do as you’re socially distancing this winter.

Retail for kit: $40. www.oceanmax.com So, these are just six of the products that moved the innovation needle in the industry this year. Each one is likely to make your sailing better, your boating safer, or your workload lighter. Who says there’s nothing new in boating anymore?

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Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular! 10/26/20 1:14 PM


GEAR

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Cruising Mariners Brought to you by the crazy folks at

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Canvas Snap Cleaner & Lubricant This is the first patented tool to clean and lubricate metal snaps found on boats, RVs, and all sorts of other outdoor equipment. Here is a tool that can not only clean the snap head but lubricates it as well.

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Make stern-tying quick and easy! Stow up to 330’ of Dyneema floating line in an elegant 316L stainless steel package. Includes winch and Quick Release Mount ($135 value)!

Nexus Green: non-toxic, non- flammable lubricating solution that penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture. Manufactured with eco-friendly ingredients, Nexus Green offers a safer alternative for all marine environments.

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GEAR

The Very Latest Boat Show Gear for

Cruising Mariners

Meet the latest in a line of premium 100% waterproof products that float from ugo wear. The ugo™ SLIM is sleek, but mighty this innovative design using uZIP™ technology is extremely reliable and built to outperform and outlast any competitor in its class. You can use your phone right through the clear TPU window, talk, text, take photos or videos above, and even below the water. Load it up with gear like your phone, a friend’s phone, a key fob, or whatever else you might need for a worry-free day on the water.

To get yours visit ugowear.com.

promo code LA20

DUAL FUEL FILTER MANAGEMENT SYSTEM Don't let dirty fuel stop your cruise! Our full feature, dual filter, MK60DP management system will keep your fuel clean and motor running smoothly worldwide.

OneMail is the ideal solution for accessing YOUR Gmail, Yahoo, HotMail, Exchange, and other email accounts via satellite or low bandwidth connections such as Iridium, Globalstar Inmarsat and others.

www.ocens.com/onemail

Sail On Sailors! www.KeenanFilters.com

New Turk's Head Quattro Rings Redesigned for those who are tired of broken strands

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Tower In A Box® Sail Arches are designed to fit virtually every mono and multi-hull sailboat made. With a capacity of up to 1,000lbs they are fabricated to accommodate the type of sailing you do. Shipped in a box anywhere in the world directly to you. Installation is easy and completed by many owners or by marine technicians at your place of dockage. Call today for huge winter boat show discounts (expires 1/31/2021). For more detailed information visit: www.atlantictowers.com. Sail On! Shelley Golden sgolden @ atlantictowers.com 1.800.831.8889 Tell her Lats & Atts Sent You!

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2021 Calendar The Ultimate Sailing Calendar is a perennial favorite of sailors. Action-packed and vibrant, big and bold: it’s 24” by 18” when displayed. Printed on durable, high-quality paper with environmentally friendly ink – it’s friendly to Mother Nature while looking good all year long. The 2021 Ultimate Sailing Calendar brings you the things dreams are made of! www.ultimatesailing.com/products/2021-ultimate-sailing-calendar-gift

DIGS LIKE NO OTHER The Mantus Anchor is designed to penetrate dense, grassy bottoms and set with unparalleled holding power. When tested, our anchors set faster and deeper than any other tested anchor. EASY TO STORE The Mantus Marine anchor lineup simply has the best boat anchors available, whether you are a long-range cruiser, racing or going out for a daysail. The Mantus quick-set anchor is stowable and breaks down for easy storage, so you can store one or two as spares without taking up much needed boat space.

Considering Buying a Cruising Boat? Team Jeff & Jean can help you find your Dream Boat!

We represent YOU! As licensed Buyer’s Brokers and authors of “The 5 Step Plan to Buy a Boat to Go Cruising”, we can help you find the right boat for the right price, at no cost to you! Call or email us today so we can get you started on the right track, potentially saving you thousands! Live Advanced Training Learn Your Boat your dream without drama! Buy the Boat Call 727-644-7946 or email info@ info@TwoCanSail.com

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Bellmarine

electric propulsion systems State of the art water or air cooled AC motor systems in sizes from 1.5kW up to 45kW for sail & power. Contact: www.AnnapolisHybridMarine.com

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GEAR Boat Show Seminar Series:

Medical Preparation for Coastal Cruising & Ocean Voyaging By Denny Emory

For medical situations encountered by boaters 40% are due to injury while a startling 60% are due to illness. Yes, there will be the stubbed or broken toe, sprain, dislocated shoulder, laceration, fishhook incident or head trauma, yet it is more likely that the issue will be sickness, dehydration, severe sunburn, an infection, or an aggravated existing medical condition. A great many of these if properly addressed at the onset can be dealt with and, as often as not, thwart the escalation into a true medical emergency and the possible need for outside assistance. There is no single source of information for the outfitting of a boat and no perfect way to prepare for a first aid or medical emergency while onboard. It is vital to consider all the information and advice available, update equipment as required, and continue the learning process through experience and training. Preparation can be an interesting and enjoyable part of the overall process, with the reward possibly of helping another or even saving a life. Training opportunities for Basic First Aid and CPR are available in most communities, while more comprehensive advanced First Responder and EMT training courses are found in many, more active, outdoor communities. USCG Certified Marine First Aid courses are available to the public and are offered by the many maritime academies and colleges around the country. US Sailing offers a number of Safety at Sea seminars annually and others offer a selection of Offshore Medical programs. Your medical kit should be consistent with the experience, level of training and confidence of those onboard. Consideration should be given to the number and age of your crew, the durations of your cruise and the time and distance away from professional medical care. Most commercial first aid kits configured for recreational boating are based on the number of persons onboard, duration of the cruise and the time / distance away from professional medical care. Based on that criteria, outfitting should include the appropriate: • First Aid Manual • First Aid Kit • Emergency Medical Equipment (AED, neck brace / extrication collar, back brace / emergency stretcher, ….) • Prescription Medications carried in anticipation of need • Normal Vessel’s Medicine Cabinet • ConsumablesOver-the counter pharmacy supplies

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Each crew member onboard should be confident of their health and conditioning to avert a potential medical incident while underway. If in doubt, a physician should be consulted. All medical conditions of consequence should be addressed and should be called to the attention of the skipper of the boat prior to departure. Before heading out be completely familiar with the first aid manual and the contents of the medical kit and consider the existing medical conditions of any crew member as well as any others that might arise. Have a plan in place to communicate any situation to an outside professional medical provider by radio or sat phone if necessary. This should include radio frequencies, protocols, phone numbers and contact information Even in home waters, getting outside professional medical assistance or direct intervention in a timely basis may not be possible. Prior planning, proper training and the assembly of a complete medical kit will provide peace of mind and prepare you to best cope with a wide range of medical emergencies onboard.

Denny Emory holds a U.S. Coast Guard 100-ton License. A former certified Wilderness EMT, he has voyaged more than 100,000nm on both sail and power vessels, visiting 42 countries on five continents. Denny has been active as an event speaker and seminar presenter nationwide covering medical, emergence and safety topics. OceanMedix - The Source for Medical Emergency and Safety Equipment - Since 2006

Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular! 10/28/20 7:45 PM


The Very Latest Boat Show Gear for

Cruising Mariners DIGS LIKE NO OTHER M2 Mantus Anchor is designed to penetrate dense grassy bottoms and set with unparalleled holding power. Expect the Mantus Anchor to set every time the first time! EASY TO STORE Whether you are a long range cruiser, racing or going out for a day sail. The Mantus breaks down for easy storage, so you can store one or two as spares without taking up much needed boat space. A single bolts is used for the construction to facilitate easy dissassembly and storage. www.MantusMarine.com/ mantus-anchors

Avast Ye, Matey!

The D.H. Russell Yachtsman Knife, fabricated in Pictou, Nova Scotia by Grohmann Knives. This belt knife has a partially serrated, high carbon steel blade, Xtra Water-Resistant Resinwood handle, lanyard, stainless steel marlin spike with shackle key slot, and open leather sheath. It comes boxed. I saw this knife from across the room, and it was clear that I had to have it. It's just so beautifully crafted, I should have bought two! - Capt. Denny Emory For this and all your medical, emergency and safety needs see: www.oceanmedix.com

Oceanvolt ServoProp variable pitch sail drive

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Saga Explorer (Saga) is your global source for premium weather, ocean and fishing GRIBs, coastal, offshore, and high seas text forecasts, buoy data and Nexrad radar loops.

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YOUR BOAT SHOULD REFLECT YOUR STYLE. Contact Stephanie@ designMD.co to discuss ways to customise your vessel's interior and be the envy on the dock and sea.

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The Oceanvolt ServoProp variable pitch sail drive combines a high efficiency sail drive with the most powerful hydro generator on the market. Contact: www.AnnaplisHybridMarine.com

Choose silver or gold shackles

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GEAR

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Cruising Mariners

Victron’s quick response to changing environmental conditions on the solar panel allows maximization of the energy harvested. Available with or without Bluetooth, allowing for instantaneous access to the solar energy production/historical information. Fully programmable (incl lithium ion. Available 10-100A, 12-24-48VDC.

The AGM alternative to Li-Ion Batteries Highlights:

• Unparalleled Resistance to Sulfation – Sulfation is what usually kills AGM batteries. Operate or store in a partial state of charge for long periods of time without loss in capacity • Depths of Discharge to 80%-100% of rated capacity without any loss of performance • Superior Life Cycle – 3X the number of deep discharge cycles than other lead acid batteries • Strong Performance in Extreme Cold and Heat– performance -20° C to 50° C • Fast Bulk Charging and topping of is seldom required • Greater Usable Capacity– replace existing bank with a smaller one due to it’s deep discharge capability

Online Show Discount Code:

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good through 1/30/2021

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LABSVICT

LABSFF

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Balmar SP200 battery monitor features a large color display. Monitor battery state of charge (SOC) at multiple onboard locations. Connect several networked shunts for easy expansion to monitor multiple batteries. Highest SOC provided plus monitor several other batteries. Bluetooth dongle allows for smart phone interconnect. Fits standard 2-1/16” opening, 8-60VDC.

www.eMarineinc.com/Firefly-Oasis-12V-Group-31-Battery

The Xantrex solar Max 80W, 165W, and 220W flex solar panels feature a mix mesh grid technology with 2000 points of contact per cell allows the panel can be flex up 180° without impacting power output. The top ETFE lawyer allows for better light transmission, corrosionstain-weather resistance and overall superior durability. Excellent in harvesting energy in low light conditions.

Online Show Discount Code:

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good through 1/30/2021

good through 1/30/2021

LABSBAL

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www.eMarineinc.com/xantrex-solar-max-flex-kits

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 Quiet-Smooth operation  Low wind energy production  Marine grade - 5 yr warranty

No more gasoline or heavy outboard to manage, a lightweight electric outboard makes it easy to take on and off. Battery pack is completely removable and even FLOATS. The sealed lithium battery pack stores a whopping 1276 WHr of energy providing maximum distance. The high-efficiency submerged drive motor is stealth quiet. Tiller mounted LCD display provides clear and accurate consumption and range info. Solar panel Online Show Discount Code: recharging kits available LABSPRO from eMarine. good through 1/30/2021 www.eMarineinc.com/categories/ePropulsion

 12-24-48V / 13 lbs  165,000 installed since 1995  Made in the USA

SCAD new TM series tank monitors replacing the classic tank monitor technology. Models for one or two tanks (great for catamarans)! • External sensors adhere outside non-metallic tanks • Continuous read for hands free monitoring • Alarm LED for empty or full conditions • External Alarm connection available • Works with metallic Online Show Discount Code: tank internal sensors

LABSSCAD

good through 1/30/2021 www.eMarineinc.com/SCAD-TM1-TM2-Tank-Monitor

Rutland 1200 Wind Turbine boasts a 500W outputting directly to the down mast controller. Low speed startup and silent operation across all wind speeds. The hybrid controller is easily programmed for different battery types and includes a solar PV input (MPPT) . It supports charging 2 battery banks e Marine is a full stocking distributor & warranty service center. Online Show Discount Code:

LABS1200

good through 1/30/2021 www.eMarineinc.com/categories/Rutland-1200-Wind-Turbine

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GEAR

The Very Latest Boat Show Gear for

Cruising Mariners

This colorful and challenging jigsaw puzzle features a fleet of sailboats parading down San Francisco Bay during the Big Boat Series hosted by St. Francis Yacht Club. From the Sharon Green-Ultimate Sailing Collection 1988.

PUZZLE

ULTRA ANCHOR “The ULTRA Anchor range is the pinnacle of anchoring technology and design. Completely hand made from 316 stainless steel and hand polished, every ULTRA Anchor is designed for excellence.”

• Pieces: 1000 • Size: 19″ x 27″, suitable for framing • Photographer: ©Sharon Green www.ultimatesailing.com/products/flying-colors-puzzle

www.UltraMarineWest.com

KISS-SSB TM THE SIMPLE PROVEN MARINE SSB GROUND PLANE Meet version 2.0 of the N impr ew and oved ve KISS-SSB counterpoise/ 2.0!! rsion ground plane. After ten years of over 10,000 satisfied customers, the KISS-SSB ground plane has been tweaked to perform even better. www.KISS-SSB.com

Spirit 1.0 Plus electric outboard engine

The lightweight, silent, 3hp equivalent electric outboard for dinghies, fishing boats, and small sailboats. Contact:

This patented boat hook secures your mooring line to a buoy ring in one continuous motion! Available in 3 telescoping lengths: 6', 8.2', and 10.4’.

The most practical portable compressor in the world. Compact, light weight and completely marinized (all components made to survive in the marine environment) This compressor is powered by a 110V electric motor that only draws 13 amps (max). This guarantees you can use it anywhere there is an outlet or power it with a small generator. Designed to be quiet, easy to transport and store. Perfect for use on the boat!

www.AnnaplisHybridMarine.com

www.MantusMarine.com/ mantus-scuba-compressor

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Brought to you by the crazy folks at

s

r!

Feel the freedom of sailing with a Hydrovane self steering windvane. Hydrovane is: 1) you best crew member – steers 24/7 without complaint, and 2) an emergency steering system/rudder for your boat.

www.Hydrovane.com

Searching for the perfect nautical earring? Classic gold Sloop earrings for pierced ears with lever backs

www.Aumaris.com

Two Can Sail

“The 5 Step Plan to Buy a Boat to Go Cruising” By Captains Jeff Grossman & Jean Levine Pick an idyllic cruising picture; this book ensures someday you’re in that picture and you’re both still smiling long after it’s taken!

Available on Amazon.

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I found it at the

Windy App

Get blown away—or not—by this app!

Keep an eye on weather fronts

Windy.app is a professional weather app, created for water and wind sports: sailing, surfing, fishing, and etc. In the app you have access to detailed weather forecasts, a live world wind map, and local weather reports. The app is available for iOS and Android. The free version offers many features. The pro version offers even more useful tools, such as real-time wind data from weather stations near you. You’ll also be able to compare up to 10 weather forecast models from all over the world and download weather forecasts for offline use—pretty kewl! In the five years since the app started, Windy has become a leading professional weather app for wind sports and outdoors enthusiasts. It is available in 15 languages—including English, Dutch, French, German, and Spanish. It helps you to be an expert in weather forecasts to have a better outdoors experience. You blown away yet? Go to your smartphone’s app store and check out Windy for yourself! Data Measured: • wind speed • temperature • atmospheric pressure • wind barbs

Atmospheric pressure readings

Extra Offerings: • save your favorite spots • find sport-specific locations, like for sailing or fishing • share a forecast • automatically download forecasts for offline use

Wind barbs for sailors

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10/26/20 6:22 AM


Cruising Concept Tables Table designs that are works of art and engineering!

Cruising Concepts has designed and handcrafted solid wood and starboard boat accessories that have improved the sea-faring experience of hundreds of discerning boaters for more than three decades.Their line of teak tables are perfect for deck dining on your boat. Mounted to the floor or portable with folding leaves, these beautiful wooden cockpit tables can be used inside or out on boats, yachts, and trawlers. Our custom teak cockpit tables are constructed from solid planks of teak–no veneers! We can oil or varnish the tables at your request, or leave them with an unfinished texture for a more classical look. The teak designs can also feature their custom, multi-colored inlaid designs, all according to your request. Their dining table designs are perfectly measured to ensure the right balance of seating room and surface space. Somehow, they’ve managed to cut storage space in half and enable dining tables to be stowed in sleeper position. All folding tables come with stainless-steel hinge plates that are installed flush with the table surface, and pneumatic aluminum legs in single or dual pedestal designs. The table feet are crafted from teak to match the table’s color and shape. When requested they can also design teak legs, or fit the tables to attach directly to the main mast or the transom. The size and versatility of folding dining tables enable a variety of inlaid design options, such as mirrored inlays on the top and bottom of the folding leaves. The inlay designs are graphically plotted and machine cut to ensure perfect symmetry. Don’t settle for a mundane accessory in your pleasure craft! Check ‘em out at www.CruisingConcepts.com, and tell ‘em Bob sent you!

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I found it at the

PowerEgg X Wizard We can’t stop buzzing over this drone!

The PowerEgg X Wizard is a high-performance, all-weather drone that provides comprehensive drone flying experience—any time, any place, and any weather—for photographers, outdoor enthusiasts, travelers, and more! PowerEgg X Wizard includes a full waterproof kit and an extra battery. The waterproof housing provides ultimate protection for PowerEgg X which makes flying and filming in heavy rain possible. The water landing floats adds an extra level of fun by allowing PowerEgg X to take off from and land on water. Equipped with a 4K/60fps UHD camcorder, the PowerEgg X produces professional quality video and stunning 12 megapixel images. And, its patented SyncVoice technology allows users to narrate in realtime by using their mobile phone’s microphone or a wireless earphone. The narration is then automatically synchronized with the footage, effectively ending silent-aerial photography. The PowerEgg X can also be used as an AI camera when attached to a tripod, or a handheld gimbal camera when the handstrap is installed. The device’s AI algorithm and robotics technology capabilities enable facial recognition, deep learning, and a tracking field of view up to 170°. The three-axis gimbal efficiently filters out vibration and produces smooth footage. Wanna find out more? Check them out at www.powervision.me, and tell ‘em Bob sent you!

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Harken Marine Grip Get a grip—safely and reliably—with Harken!

Harken Marine Grip is a thin, reliable, nonabrasive grip tape that is more effective than adhesive alternatives, waxes, and other products that reduces slipping. It also stands up to extreme marine conditions on boats, docks, and stairs. On the boat or on the dock, you’ll like Harken Marine Grip for what it does. You’ll like it even more for what it doesn’t do. This product does what a lot of competitive products claim to do—keep you from slipping. The superior grip is simple to install, clean, and apply, and is cost effective. And because it’s nonabrasive, it won’t damage clothing, wetsuits, or skin. Harken Marine Grip is nonabsorbent, UV stable, and good for all temperatures. Testing proves Marine Grip does this at least 40% more effectively than competitive products or wax. But please note, it doesn’t do everything. It doesn’t rip up your hands and knees, your swimsuit, or your foul-weather gear. It doesn’t hold onto dirt, change color, or get slippery after exposure to UVs or the sea. Plus, it doesn’t take all day to remove it. When compared, Harken Marine Grip outgrips other adhesive alternatives and waxes. Wanna find out for yourself? Go to www.Harken.com and see which product grips you!

6x12” black

3x12” translucent

2x12” gray

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6” honeycomb, black

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CR U I SER’S P A R T Y

PEOPLE

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What can we say, we miss our Cruiser’s Parties! We can’t wait to get back to the boat shows in 2021. Hopefully the pandemic is over by then! To tide us (and you!) over until the next party, here’s some pictures from past ones! Got some you think we should have? Send them to submissions@latsatts.com.

Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular!

10/28/20 10:30 AM


Latitudes & Attitudes International Boat Show Spectacular!

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C R U I SE R ’ S P ARTY P E O P L E

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FABRIC

SEWING MACHINES

TOOLS

KITS

FOAM

NOTIONS

HOW-TO VIDEOS

Everything you need, all in one place. We know you’re busy. That’s why we pride ourselves on being a one-stop shop for all things DIY. We have the fabric, foam, tools, hardware, notions and more that you need to conquer your next project. Make Sailrite your go-to DIY resource and never look back.

 Sailrite.com | ð&#x;“žð&#x;“ž 260.244.4647

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#sailrite

10/25/20 11:57 AM


at boot Düsseldorf. boot Düsseldorf has always risen to meet new challenges. There is still no better place for your business to take off again. The international sector who has a passion for water sports will come together at the world’s largest boat and water sports trade fair in 2021. As always, we are fully committed to you and your business – especially when the seas get a little rough.

Düsseldorf, Germany

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For show information: Messe Düsseldorf North America Tel. (312) 781-5180 _ info@mdna.com www.mdna.com For hotel and travel arrangements: TTI Travel, Inc. Tel. (866) 674-3476 _ info@ttitravel.net

14.09.20 10:51 10/25/20 11:59 AM


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