LIVE YOUR DREAM & SAIL BEYOND THE HORIZON
180 PAGES OF
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ADVENTURE SUMMER 2021
Run For Home 1,700 Miles & Some Lost Sleep The Great Gamble Sometimes You Just Gotta Throw The Dice!
Liveaboard Trial
A His & Her Point of View
BOAT SPOTLIGHT Summer 2021
Issue # 35
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In This Issue...
Issue #35
Page 17
Page 44
Sailing Alekona, Part 1
Run For Home
Page 53
Page 59
The Great Gamble
Why My Favorite Marinas Are So Good
Page 64
Page 70
Humbled Docking Perfectionist
Virtual Cruising
Page 96
Page 102
Summer 2021
One Last Thing
A Trial Liveaboard
Page 130
A o F o l l
Page 135
Quarantined in Paradise
This Place: Channel Islands Page 146
DIY Addiction
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Regular Stuff
In This Issue...
Issue #35
Page 12
Page 22
Bob Bitchin’s
Lats & Atts
Attitude
Scuttlebutt
Page 40
Page 78
Another Way
Boat Spotlight
Page 80
Page 82
Boat Spotlight
Boat Spotlight
Contest 55
Tania Aebi
Seawind 1600
Nordhavn N41
Page 84
Page 107
Underway
Lats & Atts
Page 124
Page 128
Life Aboard
Book Review
Page 134
Page 144
Cap’n Cap’n
Talk O’ The Dock
Page 152
Page 178
I Found It At The Boat Show
Boat People
Lifestyle
Photos from Cruisers
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Summer 2021
Unsinkable
Page 126 Page 176
Bubba Whartz Advertiser’s Spotlight
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This Issue’s Cover:
Cynthia Laberge and Harley Duncan 20 miles off Marcio Island aboard Hula Girl. Photo by Melanie Simons People Who Helped Us Create This Issue Adam Deem Alexandra Doerschel Capt. Jim Cash Capt. Robert Baringer Chris Appleton Diane Fowler Doug Neal Fran Lima Jessica Lloyd-Mostyn JoAnne & Bill Harris John Simpson Kia Koropp Kris & Quintin Waters Marissa Neely Morgan Stinemetz Nathan & Kate Jones Paul Kortenkamp Sonya David Vicki Seymour
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Printed in the USA We Support Boating
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Once a King, always a King. But once a night’s enough!
By Bob Bitchin I spent the first few years living aboard based out of The Portofino Marina in Redondo Beach, California. And, about every other year, I would sail a bit further, once down to Puerto Vallarta on the mainland, and once all the way down to Zihuatanejo. Each time, I would fly home every three weeks for a week. At the time, I was working at Biker Lifestyle Magazine, and they wanted me to be there occasionally, though I never did know why! Soon it lost its appeal. I needed more to get my juices flowing. Hawaii! Twenty-six hundred nautical miles to paradise. That was what I needed!. I spent a lot of time picking up all the charts, including the overall chart of the Pacific, which hung in my office with every path I had sailed well marked on it (until the fire a couple months ago that took it and everything else I owned). And then there was navigating across an ocean. This was a major. I couldn’t afford a Sat-Nav or a weather-fax or a Single-Sideband radio. That stuff was well out of my budget. No, I was going to have to learn how to navigate using celestial navigation. That meant using a sextant! Now, let me tell you, my mind was not created for the sextant. I bought a decent sextant from Celestaire, as well as the books that went with it. I studied all the diagrams and math, I looked at all the reference tables, and I did all the things that mariners of the time did. But in the end, I could not figure out how to locate where I was standing on Earth without looking around me. And I knew that looking around when in mid-ocean would not help much. My neighbor in the marina was an old salt named Bill Larson who lived on a 41’ square-rigged ketch. It was as salty as he was. In fact, he had added a square-sail on the top of his main mast. Many years later he would skipper the Lady Washington tall ship! So, I asked him to teach me. We went down below on his boat and he started talking about angles and variation and deviation (I knew how to be a deviate!!) and all kinds of things — none of which I understood. As the day to depart grew near, I was pretty worried. I still did not know how to figure my position using a sextant.
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And then it happened. Being a prudent mariner (hah!), I decided I should have a back-up sextant. Just in case. Then, as now, whatever you have as a backup means the original will not break! So off to West Marine I went, and I bought a $25 (yes, that’s how much they were then!) plastic Davis sextant. It came in a neat little plastic case, with a neat little booklet about 15 pages long... telling you how to use it! And I understood it immediately! There were two little paragraphs telling me how to take a noon site. That would be all I’d need. If I knew where I was each day at noon, I could navigate anywhere on Earth! I gotta tell ya, it worked pretty well! On my first sail across the Pacific to Hawaii, I started taking noon-sites everyday and felt confident that I knew, at least sorta, where I was on this big blue ball we call Earth. About halfway across, we saw the oil tanker Bass Pike. She crossed our path about four miles in front of us, and I radioed her, asking if they could give me a current position, just to verify what I had calculated. Wanna guess how close I was in my calculations? Not very. In fact, they told me I was “a few hundred miles” off my charted position. This was NOT good news. First, I had to figure out exactly where we were on the planet. Then the hard part: figuring out where I had gone wrong. Oh, yeah, and I had to do this without letting my crew know how lost I had gotten them. At least until I figured it out. For the next two days, I calculated and re-calculated. On the third day, I found my problem. I’d started taking noon sites sailing down the coast of the US while sailing to Cabo San Lucas. During that part of our voyage, I had been adding the declination (a fancy word for the magic formula to figure out where you are). I now realized that during the three weeks we’d sat in Cabo, the formula had changed, and I was supposed to have been deducting the declination. So, each day when I plotted my course across this huge ocean, I’d been adding distance instead of subtracting it. So, each day my mistake was compounded, and our calculated position started jumping way ahead of our actual position. Oh, as a prudent mariner, I always backed up my position on the chart with a dead-reckoning position as well, but as it was dropping so far behind, I had figured we had a current pushing us, or maybe a fast moving whale was pushing us. I didn’t know, I just knew we were kickin’ butt as we raced to Hawaii, so I was a happy captain — until I realized my dead-reckoning was almost spot on our true speed, and I’d been living in a fool’s paradise. I did eventually get it figured out. When we finally arrived at Radio Bay in Hilo, Hawaii, I was just three miles off using my sextant. That was a good feeling. Of course, I do now enjoy the benefits of a GPS. When I was using sextant, I learned that if you couldn’t see the sun, you didn’t know where you were. After a twoweek period sailing back to the mainland from Hawaii while overcast, well, let’s just say our new technology is a good thing! But I still always keep a dead-reckoning position as a backup! W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M
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SAILING ALEKONA - PART 1
“If this is what it takes to sail away… then this is what we will do”
By Jessie Zevalkink-Yeates
An eighth of a turn brings heartache. A quarter of a turn calls for celebration. A greasy slip causes bloody knuckles. A firm grip and accurate angle delivers marginal progress. I am learning. Learning. Learning. Creativity and mechanics go hand in hand; when one thing does not work, something else will. When one tool fails, you have to imagine and then make up the next. Push. Pull. Twist. Shove. Huff. Puff. A head full of blood and feet in the clouds. If this is what it takes to sail away, then this is what we will do.
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SAILING ALEKONA - PART 1 We spend one month at the dock in Alameda, California. Each day runs thin on time. Beads of water dripping down the window. If only I could slow the drip before reaching the bottom. Two weeks into our priority projects, we acknowledge we are going to need help. Four hands are not enough when two of them are continuously occupied. Our two-monthold son, Otis “Oti Boat,” not only requires my attention, but he requires my body. Each task interrupted by our undeniably likable boy is partly testing, and partly the best part of my day. I am a mother now and I am a mother first. And I will be for the rest of my life. The priority shift is exceptional, all though I remain enthusiastic about the rest of our tasks, even the messy ones. We fly out our friend and mechanic, Tyler Callahan, to assist us with necessary engine work. There are lists on the navigation table. Lists in my head. Lists in my pocket. Lists on my phone. Lists on napkins and receipts. Compartmentalizing and prioritizing each step to each project. California. Alabama. Ohio. Japan. New Zealand. We don’t make that anymore. We don’t have that in stock. What’s the part number? Press 1 to speak with a representative. Can you repeat that? Let me transfer you. What’s the serial number? Can you repeat that? I’m so sorry, that’s no longer being manufactured. One of us looping Alameda and Oakland like Formula 1. Napa Auto Parts. Svendsen’s Marine and Industrial Supply. Alternator guy. Beer run. AutoZone. Machine shop. Beer run. Svendsen’s. Alternator guy. Svendsen’s. Beer run. Another one of us, hands on the current project. Another one of us with Otis. Closer and closer we come to sailing away. We’ve replaced fuel lines and have had new ones swaged. We’ve studied and worked out a complicated fuel system with four fuel tanks and sweating copper pipes. We’ve swapped out oil, belts, impellers, and zincs. We’ve had new zinc bolts machined and confirmed our engine mounts need replacing. We’ve greased bearings and dropped many important tools in the bilge. Our handiest tools have been an extendable mirror the size of a credit card to locate what
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we can not see with our eyes, and an extendable magnet to collect what we’ve dropped into the abyss. These priceless gadgets help us move forward. Meanwhile on deck we’ve replaced pins and secured jacklines. We’ve mounted a life raft and completed our Hydrovane install. We’ve replaced the wheel break and fixed the binnacle. The most important thing I was reminded of and have re-learned, is that to understand how something works you must take it apart. You must risk the disassembly, otherwise you won’t have the confidence to fix it. To go or not to go. Do we bring Otis past the notoriously windy Central Coast of California, where the air accelerates fiercely around Point Conception? The conversation of who is partaking in the first leg south is talked through thoughtfully, strategically, methodically. The forecast is clear that the answer is no, Otis should not be on board, but it takes me some time to accept my potential absence. Not being a part of Alekona’s maiden voyage, ripping under the Golden Gate with the tide and feeling the power of all that we’ve worked for, is disheartening. I know very well it’s the right choice. Luke and crew can go sail the boat hard without reservation. They can put Alekona to the offshore test with the unforgiving forecast and never-ending downwind fetch. They can intentionally sail her under duress without me and Otis. Water is topped off and provisions are stowed. We’ve done everything that needs doing, from packing the spices tightly in the cupboard to making up the pilot berth with fresh linens. I’ve packed our bags, and Otis and I depart the boat. I wave goodbye to my husband, and to my home. The anxiety of family separation due to chosen risk and the delight of sincere adventure. An extended nasal inhale becomes essential and an oversized grin accompanies each exhale. Alekona will shine at sea, this I know for certain. See you later, my loves. Otis and I arrive in Ventura to meet three battered men 350 miles later. Skin flaking off of Luke’s, ears and his nose red as an open sore. With a jolly sailor grin he prioritizes his son, he has offspring to impress now. Alekona sits stout in her slip, unfazed by her feral passage. Thirty knots of wind and fifteen foot rollers has the crew knackered. Under a high sun in the cockpit, I listen to the narrative of their passage and learn of what I have missed and I am oh-so-grateful that I have. Alekona and crew have earned their gold stars and the central California coast late winter was no place for a baby aboard a boat we are unfamiliar with. Our friends fly home and the quietness descends. It’s just us now. In a way, knowing that
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SAILING ALEKONA - PART 1
we’ve made our first move feels monumental. There is an ease to our upcoming passages. Gently downwind to Mexico, we give ourselves time to enjoy what we’ve worked for before digging deeply into the next big project. As soon as we get to Ensenada, Mexico, our engine mounts need replacing. They needed replacing yesterday (possibly years ago), but we’ve decided to push our luck, to avoid using the engine, and sail further south where labor is cheaper and beer tastes better. Otis wakes to curb his hunger at 0200. Cries. Laying in bed my body responds with what’s considered “the let down” which feels like mercury, gravity feeding to escape your nipples. My alarm is set for an hour from now to start the kettle and warm up the engine to get us out of the harbor. Awkward timing as we are due to depart at 0400 to arrive at our destination in daylight. While nursing I go through a disorganized list in my head and I hear Luke wake to empty his bladder. We’re all awake now and there is no reason not to get on with it. So we get on with it. I tuck disco baby back in the bassinet that we call “The Dinosaur” and zip him inside with the cover on. He can’t be trusted now, and it didn’t take long to learn that the hard way. I am confident he could escape the Dino given enough frustration. Luke turns
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over the 85-horsepower sound machine and disco baby stops dancing, asleep before I switch off the light and close the door. We weave through the harbor and into the open sea by 0230. The coastline is kindly lit by the electric grid of Los Angeles. We motor just long enough to get out of the lee of land and pick up 8 knots of breeze on the beam. All sails up, we cut the engine, moving quietly along at 4.5 knots. With the slightest heel on, I sneak into Oti’s room and turn around “The Dinosaur” to keep his head above his feet. I stuff loose items in all corners to secure his space. He doesn’t wake; for over an hour Luke and I sit in the cockpit in silence, reading the stars and listening to the neighboring dolphins. At 0500 the pilot berth speaks to me. I lay down to rest, sinking into the 1983 cushions from New Zealand, fully satisfied. Nodding off, I can’t help but think ahead to the next chapter… Mexico. Engine mounts. Bloody knuckles. Heartache. Celebration. Progress. Forever learning. If that is what it will take for us to continue sailing, then that is what we will do. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Lats&Atts Scuttlebutt If It’s Gonna Happen, It’s Gonna Happen Out There
All the News That Fits Between the Sheets
Summer 2021
Art By Ron Tessensohn
Issue #35
Beware! The Doctors Are Coming There are about 700,000 physicians in the U.S. Accidental deaths caused by physicians per year are 120,000. That means accidental deaths per physician are 0.171 (statistic courtesy of U.S. Dept of Health Human Services and is a conservative number.) Now think about this: The number of gun owners in the U.S. is 80,000,000. Yes, that is 80 million. The number of accidental gun deaths per year, all age groups, is 1,500. The number of accidental deaths per gun owner is 0.0000188. Statistically, doctors are approximately 9,000 times more dangerous than gun owners. Remember, “Guns don’t kill people, doctors do.”
Round the Horn With L&A! Due to the pandemic, we have had to reschedule our Cape Horn Adventure to March 8-12, 2022. It is now available for reservations. The plan is to board the ship, (a small adventure cruise ship operated by Australis Ship Lines) in Punta Arenas, Chile. We have reserved 20 double cabins for this adventure. There are different classes of cabins, and we can help those traveling solo who want to share a cabin find a partner. The voyage terminates in Ushuaia, Argentina, the location of the Tierra del Fuego National Park. We are putting together a land tour through the National Park, which includes spending a night on the Argentina Atlantic Coast one night and transport back to Punta Arenas. The cost of that portion will be about $500 per person, including bus, accomodations, and most meals. We had it all planned, but have to wait until we can verify our plans, after some of the venues we had set up closed for Covid, and we need to verify the rates again. If you’d like more information, you can contact the ship directly and reserve your cabin with a $300 deposit. The email address is ylopez@australis.com. All you have to do is let them know you are with the Latitudes & Attitudes Group. This is a bucket list item for most cruisers, and we are no exception. We look forward to seeing you there!
Nautical Trivia
What is the “whiskey plank” on a wooden vessel?
Wanna Cheat? Answer is on page 38.
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Latitudes & Attitudes 23 4/17/21 12:36 PM
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Atty’s Legend Lives On!
Recently, folks have been wondering about our staff mascot that graces our covers each issue. It was about 25 years ago when Atty “The Dude” Tude appeared under sailing vessel Lost Soul during a particularly raucous evening anchored off Marina Cay in the BVIs. The crew had been ashore with a bunch of cruisers at the BVI Cruiser’s Party. Our hosts at Pusser’s, Charles and Joanna Tobias, were mixing up batches of Painkillers, and the crew, as good guests, downed as many as were poured. Later that evening, a glow was seen under Lost Soul, and that was the night Atty first appeared. Some say it was the rum, but everyone on the crew saw the same thing, and a day or two later, as they sailed down to Martinique, Atty was seen following. The description of Atty varied with the amount of rum that was imbibed. But all agreed, they were being followed by a sea serpent! A friendly sea serpent! Upon their return to civilization, they formed this magazine, Latitude & Attitudes. Staff artist Ron Tessensohn was tasked with rendering a likeness from the different descriptions given by the crew. It seems the apparition only can be seen when downing numerous Painkillers, laced with plenty of rum. Atty is still an active member of the Lats & Atts staff, and is tasked with bringing home crew members who may have imbibed a bit too much rum.
New Speed Record! The World Sailing Speed Record Council announced a new world record on the Fastnet Race course which begins from Cowes before passing around the Fastnet Lighthouse and finishing at the Plymouth Breakwater. Setting the new time is Peter Cunningham’s MOD70 PowerPlay, which completed the distance in 25:04:18 (23.73 knot avg), eclipsing the previous record that had been set by Phaedo in 2015.
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Electric Elan? If it works for cars, why not bring sailing boats into the fold? Sailing was never about motoring, never about engine speed – it is about that connection to nature, the serenity of the sea, and the challenge. So why not get rid of the “dirty and loud” diesel engine, and simply exchange it for “clean and quiet” electric propulsion?
Kanberra naturally eliminates musty, fishy, fuel, people and pet odors then keeps them from coming back! ®
Elan Yachts and Oceanvolt decided to partner up to create a full range of electric-powered yachts. Oceanvolt became Elan Yachts’ exclusive electric power provider, after several highly successful pioneering projects. The operating range of high-end electric propulsion systems like the one from Oceanvolt is from 25 to 70 miles at 5 knots (and more, depending on the battery pack options and power generation), which is more than enough to get you in and out of marinas and bays and still have plenty left over to get you out of a bind. The rest, you sail. And if the yacht is fast, the winds are fair, and you achieve 5 knots or more, Oceanvolt’s hydrogeneration kicks in and generates power for recharging the battery bank.
Marina Charges Hurricane Isaias slammed into Brunswick County in the late evening hours of August 3, causing catastrophic damage to Southport Marina and severely damaging many boats still moored there. Those boat owners were shocked last week when some received bills from the marina for over $20,000 to pay for the damage.
• Water-based, Alcohol/Chemical-free • Made in the USA • A complete line of products – gel, spray, wipes, soap, essential oils & anti-friction creams
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Latitudes & Attitudes 27 4/17/21 12:33 PM
Kadey-Krogen Tom Button, president of Kadey-Krogen, is stepping down, and new blood is planning some new designs. For years, Kadey-Krogen has been one of the most desired power cruisers around, and the new investors are anxious to add new cruising designs to the market!
Croatia Here We Come Ready for a Share The Sail Adventure? Join the Lats&Atts crew in the sailing capitol of Europe — Croatia! This event was sold out for 2020, but had to be cancelled for the Covid pandemic. It was re-scheduled for 2021, and once again, had to be cancelled! It is now scheduled for May 2022, and it looks like it will be happening this time.
Since many of the people who had signed on for the 2020 trip have had to change their plans, there are now a few openings for this event in May 2022. Interested in joining us? Send us an email to see what is available!
You can email Jody@LatsAtts. com for more info and to see what space we have left for this event.
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Photo by Pablo de Pastors
Vinson of Antarctica Launch The expedition vessel Pelagic 77 had her two carbon masts were set immediately after launch. Her official name is Vinson of Antarctica after the highest mountain on the Antarctic continent. She has been under construction at KM Yachtbuilders since early in the summer of 2019, and work will be continuing for a few weeks after the launch on the finishing, commissioning, and, of course, the sea trials. All of this will take place on the North Sea, and the first trip will be to Norway. After that the crew plans to sail to South America, ending at Puerto Williams in Chile, the southernmost inhabited place in the world. A schooner with a modern design, the Pelagic 77 has a centreboard and fixed keel box, and two carbon masts. All sail systems, such as winches and jib rollers, can still be operated by hand. Two Yanmar engines provide ample power. When they’re not on deck, guests on board can also relax in the comfortable living area of the large pilothouse or in the stern galley. In the foreship there are six double cabins and two communal toilets and showers.
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What’s a Proa? Proas have been around since adventurous island dwellers first strung cloth atop a dug-out canoe, with early versions developed by Austronesian sailors for exploring the unknown southern seas of the IndoPacific some 7,000 years ago.
Made up of a single hull and second ama, they are light and fast, and simple to construct. Devotees of modern incarnations of the proa praise them for their speed under minimal sail area and their ability to absorb waves with less slamming and uneven loading than a conventional catamaran. On a close reach, proas like Jzerro can easily pass boatspeeds of 17-18 knots.
Atlantic Hurricane Season Hurricane researchers are predicting an aboveaverage Atlantic hurricane season in 2021, citing the likely absence of El Niño as a primary factor. Tropical Atlantic sea surface temperatures are near their longterm averages, while subtropical Atlantic sea surface temperatures are much warmer than their long-term average values. The warmer subtropical Atlantic favors an active 2021 Atlantic hurricane season.
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Going Down? Want Ice With That? The Russian diver Alexey Molchanov, whose mother was a legendary free diver (that mysteriously disappeared on a free dive off Ibiza six years ago), swam down 262 feet beneath the ice of Siberia’s Lake Baikal, on a single breath. Already considered the greatest free diver in the world, he just added to his reputation by breaking another record, this time beneath ice. No one asked him why!
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Alaska Boaters Do Their Part! When poor visibility grounded flights to deliver the Covid vaccine to remote villages in Alaska, a charter captain named Curtis Jackson jumped in to ferry the This from the “Progressive precious cargo—along with four medical personnel— Grocer” Website — and aboard his 32-foot Munson landing craft, fighting fourkinda good news for Lats & foot seas. The 15-mile crossing typically takes Jackson Atts, as we are the #1-selling 30 minutes, but due to deteriorating weather it took boating lifestyle magazine him an hour. in the US! Home entertainment played an important role as an emotional healer during the pandemic. According to the Eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince and dinner consumer survey, 28% say they are doing more like a college kid with a maxed out charge card. AKA, reading of magazines and books. Breakfast is Gold, Lunch silver, and dinner... LEAD!
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Some of us are born sailors, we just don’t know it yet. Then, when the time is right, the sea calls us and we dream of what life would be like on a sailboat. We check ads for used boats and start calling our friends “captain.” If this describes you, it’s time to learn how to sail because deep down, you’re already a sailor.
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Out of the Mouths of Babes Sailing Ship’s used to use the trade winds to cross the ocean. Sometimes when the wind didn’t blow the sailors would whistle to make the wind come. My brother said they would have been better off eating beans. (William, age 7) My uncle goes out in his boat with 2 other men and a woman and pots and comes back with crabs. (Millie, age 6)
Mermaids live in the ocean. I like mermaids. They are beautiful and I like their shiny tails, but how on earth do mermaids get pregnant? Like, really? (Helen, age 6) Some fish are dangerous. Jelly fish can sting. Electric eels can give you a shock. They have to live in caves under the sea where I think they have to plug themselves in to chargers. (Christopher, age 7)
We Don’t Wanna Go Around Norway is about to build what it’s calling the world’s first ship tunnel. After decades of planning, the Norwegian Coastal Administration just received approval to move forward with the project, with construction slated to begin in 2022. The Stad Ship Tunnel will run through the Stadhavet peninsula in the northwest, and it should help ships safely bypass the dangerous, exposed waters of the Stadhavet Sea, where the topography and ocean currents are known to produce high waves coming from all different directions. Once complete, it will be 1.06 miles long and 118 feet wide, and it should be large enough for most of the vessels in the coastal voyage fleet to pass through, though it will be too small for most cruise ships. Currently, an estimated 20 percent of ships are delayed at Stad due to sea conditions, and much of Norway’s goods transport happens over land because of the risks associated with sailing around the peninsula. The Stad Ship Tunnel should help the country establish more reliable shipping routes. The project will take three to four years to complete and should cost approximately $330 million. Considering the Norwegians have been considering a tunnel for more than 100 years, however, this seems like a very short time to wait, and a small price to pay. Sounds like a good reason to head that way, as soon as we see how tall a mast can go through it!
A
The ocean is made up of water and fish. Why the fish don’t drown I don’t know. (Bobby, age 6) Divers have to be safe when they go under the water. Divers can’t go down alone, so they have to go down on each other. (Becky, age 8)
On vacation my Mom went water skiing. She fell off when she was going very fast. She says she won’t do it again because water fired right up her big fat ass. (Julie, age 7) w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Saving Hindu The 95-year-old William Hand-designed schooner was taking on water. The collision had caused the plank-on-frame hull to spring a leak. After she was hauled out in Provincetown, they could see the collision had knocked the stem 3 inches out of line. She would need major repairs. Shipwrights Simon Larsen and Mike Rogers, who have rebuilt a number of Hand designed vessels, have been signed on to do the job, and she will be back out there as soon as the job has been completed!!
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American Magic Dramatic Capsize American Magic skipper Terry Hutchinson was “trapped” under water during the team’s dramatic America’s Cup capsize, a potential life-threatening situation he managed to avoid thanks to help from a teammate.
Patriot lost control and capsized during the Prada Cup. Skipper Hutchinson revealed the alarming situation he was in as his side of the boat immediately sunk under water.
“My most vivid memory is when I heard Dean [Barker] say ‘I’ve lost the rudder.’
“I’m basically clipped into the boat, so I went to eject myself out of the boat and my clip didn’t come undone which straight away got my cackles up. So then I went for my knife. The cockpit filled up straight away, and it very quickly went from everything’s okay to a pretty high fever from my perspective because straight away I was under water and under the mainsail.”
Activists Using Their Own Money to Study the Seas and Combat Climate Change A group of wealthy activists are pouring their own money and energy into saving our seas. They have banded together to save our imperiled oceans, which, by all accounts are deteriorating at an increasingly alarming pace. The Philanthropic Ocean Research Vessel Operators are not waiting for governments to take action. Instead, they have applied their business knowhow to studying the seas and devising conservation projects to combat the ravages of climate change, overfishing, and the wholesale dumping of plastic.
Don’t Worry, You Are Still On My List
The last thing I want to do is hurt you, but it’s still on my list.
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West Marine Sold
America’s Cup to NZ As you know, Lats & Atts is not about racing. But as cruisers, we are fully aware that whenever two sailboats see each other, it’s a race!
The 36th America’s Cup was scheduled between March 6-21. The start was delayed until March 10 due to a Covid-19 lockdown in Auckland.
Once again Team New Zealand has retained the America’s Cup, probably more suitably named New Zealand’s cup at this point!
Since it was first held in 1851, the America’s Cup has been at the forefront of sailing technology. The race is held every four years.
West Marine has entered into an agreement with private equity firm, L Catterton, which will take a controlling interest in the company’s ownership. West Marine operates 237 locations in 38 states and Puerto Rico, as well as two ecommerce platforms reaching domestic, international, and professional customers.
Sailing Since 1896!! Sailing has been a part of all modern Olympic games, except for the 1904 Summer Games, which were held in Louisiana.
This makes it one of the longest running Olympic disciplines around. So, if people ask you: ‘Is sailing a sport?”, simply answer with: “Well, the International Olympic Committee has believed it to be, for over 120 years.”
Nautical Trivia
The “whiskey plank” is the last plank to be added on a ship being built of wood.
Answer from page 22.
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ACTIVE PIRACY REPORT from the International Commercial Crime Services: A Narrative of the Most Recent Attacks
April 7: E, Singapore Straits. While underway, four robbers armed with knives entered into the engine room of a bulk carrier. The duty motorman saw the robbers, who pushed and hit the motorman on the head before escaping. Alarm raised, crew mustered and a search was carried out. Nothing reported stolen. April 7th: Singapore Straits. Two robbers boarded a tanker underway. Master raised the alarm resulting in the robbers escaping empty handed. March 30: Singapore Straits. Robbers in two small boats approached the stern of unmanned rig under tow. They detached and stole the towline pickup buoy floating behind the rig and escaped. Incident reported to VTIS. Vessel and crew safe. March 24: Singapore Straits. Five robbers armed with knives boarded a bulk carrier underway. Master raised the alarm, crew mustered, and a search was carried out. Nothing reported stolen. March 22: Around 11 nautical miles northwest of Harf Ghabi, Oman. Duty officer onboard a bulk carrier underway observed a skiff approaching at high speed. Alarm raised, ship’s horn sounded, speed increased, PA announcement made. At a distance of around 40 meters, three armed and masked persons were observed in the skiff. The ship’s VHF calls were acknowledged by a nearby European Mission warship which proceeded to render assistance. After around 20 min, the skiff moved away. The communication with the warship continued until the ship was safe.
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ANOTHER WAY KEENONAS By Tania Aebi
Another winter has passed the torch to spring. A literal torch. Crocuses have bloomed in late March here. Unheard of. The legendary harsh weather of Northern New England is only a little cooler today than in South Carolina. And April showers that claim to bring May flowers have been non-existent. These parts are supposed to be very wet, and we haven’t been seeing enough precipitation of any kind in the past couple of years, sleet, snow, or rain. Rivers are low, forests are stressed, but the Ever Given has been freed from blocking the Suez Canal, releasing the worldwide flow of goods and toys that can distract us from other unsettling changes. On the kitchen table, there’s a pile of clippings related to this story. An elderly friend still reads actual newspapers, and marine-related articles inspire him to get out the scissors, envelope, and stamp. One week of the Ever Given resulted in four envelopes with 2 to 4 articles apiece. So, three days after this monstrosity was finally dislodged, I was still looking at the pictures of it dwarfing the huge excavators, tugs, and people struggling to set it free. I, and the rest of the news-monitoring world, and especially those who are interested in things maritime, had those images in our heads when I logged on for a scheduled Zoom celebration of the Contessa 26’s 55th birthday. The absolute antithesis to monstrosities like the Ever Given, the CO26 was my ride for the around the world sail in 1987, back when rivers were still swollen in April, and 48-foot boats were considered palatial. Harking back to how much better things used to be is me now. The Contessa 26 and I are the same wise old age, a fun fact I pointed out when the Zoom talking stick came to my screen. Most participants were in England. One other guy in Washington DC and I still had light coming in our windows while the sun set on the old country and the slides narrating the story of this indomitable little boat and her keenonas. Until being invited to this event and reminded of things once said and written, I’d forgotten I’d coined a word fifteen years ago with this very column, after going to the CO26’s 40th birthday celebration in person. In Lymington, England, I met and stayed with Jeremy and Fiona Rogers, the
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Contessa creators with all their beautiful stories between lunches, talks, cocktail hours, dinners, races, and other such gatherings in honor of their baby. Throughout, the CO26 fans kept calling each other keenonas, and I thought it was some kind of cute Briticism until realizing they were actually saying keen owners. And so, a new word for a select few was born. If the Ever Given came up for a moment during the online event, as it must have, Goliath made the David subset of keenonas collectively even prouder of smallness. David Sadler designed the little gem, Jeremy Rogers built the prototype in his garage in 1966, and this grew to a whole factory assembly-line production over the next decade. According to the host and narrator of the soiree in England—and matinee in New England—the 26 was the perfect size in the seventies, a success resulting with about 350 Contessas. The forms went to Canada, and the company that built mine in 1985, JJ Taylor, produced around 400 more. I sat in front of the computer with a couple gallery-view-screens worth of the 2021 keenona scene, listening to the CO26 story as told by the brilliant narrator who’d invited a selection of characters to remember what the tiny package had made possible for them. Two men spoke of single-handed transAtlantic OSTAR races. Another, Fiona’s brother and author of a book on celestial navigation, competed in a round-England race of textbook-grade, fullgale sailing. The fellow from DC had cruised to the Mediterranean with his fiancée, then with their two kids, while he researched the winds and wrote a book about them. We saw slides of a climber guy who sailed the CO26 to Greenland, anchoring her close to any rock face he could get his pick into. One 16-yearold boy sailed her around the world, and another young chap sailed her from Europe to Australia. Crossing oceans on a CO26 speck can be very intense, a shared relationship of drama only those who have experienced it can know. I had something to say about all that, too, and it weirdly felt like being among a bunch of former consorts gathered in a virtual room with the greatest love of our lives. Just what does this seductive package look like, you may wonder? Well, for starters, she’s lovely,
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In May of 1985, an 18-year-old Tania set sail from Manhattan, New York, and became the first American woman and youngest sailor at the time to circumnavigate the globe. Upon her return to Manhattan in November 1987, Tania had visited 23 countries and sailed 27,000 miles. Nowadays, Tania runs charters and delivers boats all over the world when she’s not at home, raising her sons, working on her next book, or battling snow in the winter and weeds in the summer.
precisely what attracted me to her in the first place at the age of eighteen. Luckily, she would prove also to be sea kindly, fast, bulletproof, and wet. Her elegant, well-proportioned lines always evoked appreciation from other sailors in many anchorages everywhere, and definitely for all the keenonas. The Canadian version has a longer cockpit than the English afterdeck. From this cockpit, you step down through the companionway into the cabin, where two settees straddle both sides and stretch aft under the cockpit. Forward of them and up against a bulkhead to port, is a small sink and icebox; to starboard, a two-burner gimballed stove. Forward of bulkhead, port side has a small hanging locker, and starboard a toilet. Forward of that is the petite V-berth. Beneath everything is water tanks and storage. As I describe the space I lived in for two and a half years, my bed, kitchen, bathroom, living room, workshop, porch, and vehicle, I think, Hmmm, all this could easily fit into just one of Ever Given’s 10,000 40-foot containers. The CO26 is enough for one healthy person to call home and never be overpowered by sail handling or anchoring. Two people aboard have to like each other very much. Her size makes her very easy to manage, and her sloop-rigged simplicity is a sublime sail. The impressively fast boat with her fetching look has won some prestigious races, which keenonas are especially proud of remembering. Back during her 40th birthday race on the Solent, I was aboard with Jeremy and Fiona, very skilled sailors handling their baby. Jeremy had won the Round the Island Race
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with his CO26 multiple times, and he entrusted me with the tiller, giving me a chance to experience an unforgettable victory too. I’ve never asked for much out of racing. The narrator started wrapping up, it was getting late in England. I could see those who had participated with their cameras on were beginning to yawn. It was time to sign off and know the big Six-Oh was next, in five years. As usual, they will fly by. Two weeks have passed since the online party, when I started writing this. The flood of Ever Given clippings from my friend have become a trickle. The behemoth is stuck at anchor in Egypt, facing a billion-dollar fine, while the Northeast has gotten a good April soaking with rain, some snow, flowers, and green, and all the signs of a new spring. Five more springs until the CO26’s sixtieth and I wonder: the newspaper clippings piling on the table between now and then will be filled with ever giving what?
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Run for e m Ho By Adam Deem
W
hew, what a trip – two months and a week, 1,700 nautical miles, a few sleepless nights, and some really memorable moments, but I’m exhausted. I need a vacation from vacation, perhaps there are some lessons to be learned here, but we can explore that later. For now, we’re tucked in at home in South Carolina—the boat is secure, and we narrowly avoided getting stuck anywhere by the emerging coronavirus pandemic. Here is the story of our not so harrowing escape from the Bahamas: We were tired. Things were good, but we had covered a lot of miles in a few weeks to get here. Evaluating how much time we had left before I had to return to work and the time it would take to get home, we decided that travelling any farther would cause us to have to push harder later to get safely home before I had a hard date to start back at my job. We decided to return to Norman’s for a few days and then make our way back to the States in a more leisurely fashion than our trip out. Normans Cay was great. We explored the island further and found the trove of conch that was rumored to be about. It turns out they hide better than I realized. Knowing that commercial overfishing had really dented the conch population in many areas of the islands, we limited our catch
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to two and made a single, delicious meal of conch fritters. We explored the lagoon and other areas of the eastern beaches on the island. It was beautiful and relaxing for a few lovely days. We explored reefs and rocks for lobster but didn’t manage to catch any. A powerful cold front was approaching, prompting us to find a more sheltered place to hide, so we decided to head to the protected Highbourne Cay Marina. The sail up along the eastern, deep ocean side of the islands was a nice beam to broad reach and we made good time in 4 to 6-foot seas. We arrived at Highbourne and were directed to an awkwardly placed corner slip at the front of the marina where the dock made an L, but close to the restaurant and store. Highbourne Cay is a nice spot that typically caters to a bit more exclusive clientele than us dirtbag sailors and is priced accordingly, but not unreasonably. It is a great place to be sheltered from weather, though. We gladly enjoyed a few days there as we waited for the weather to pass, and some nice superyacht crew kept stopping by to visit our awesome dog, Ella. The stay turned out to be a wise decision as the winds behind the front were quite strong and the waves breaking on the northern end of the inland threw spray over the top of the steep hill we stood on. There was not a lot to do, so I decided to do a bit of quick maintenance while we were docked. I jumped into the water and swapped our old, pitted fixed propeller for a shiny new Maxprop feathering propeller that we had been toting around but hadn’t found the time to install. As I was finishing up the swap using my hookah rig, a marina worker hollered, “You’re brave!” I replied, “What do you mean?” “There’s big sharks in here — bull sharks, mon!” Well, damn, if I had known that I’d have kept my ass out of the water. Oh well, too far along now, I have to finish. “Hey sweetie, could you please come up here and keep an eye out for sharks while I finish this job?” I asked Dominique. Prop installed, and weather cleared, we departed, slowly heading north back via Allen’s Cay where we could anchor with decent protection and without the pricey nightly fees of the marina. We motored the short distance upwind to Allen’s Cay and into the anchorage. Upon dropping anchor at a good spot, I put the engine in reverse to set the anchor firmly in the sand. BANG, CRUNCH…silence. The engine stopped dead, the prop fouled. I grabbed my mask and knife and dove into the water. A spring line that had been missed after the undocking debacle, had harmlessly trailed alongside in the water all the way to the anchorage. Upon engaging reverse, the end of the thick dock line wrapped firmly around w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Run for Home the propeller shaft, stopping the engine, pulling the prop shaft aft about two inches, and destroying the flexible shaft coupling. I cut the line free and the engine returned to its normal position. The well designed flex coupling did its job and prevented damage to the engine by softening the stoppage. However, the old motor mounts had torn and the transmission shift linkage was damaged in the process. Dammit, how could I have been so stupid to miss that line in the water! After a bit of troubleshooting, I was able to rethread the shift cable end, adjust the linkage arm, and get the engine working again. We’re a sailboat
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anyway. Hell, Lin and Larry Pardey went around the world a few times without a motor, surely, we can get back to the States under sail only. Next stop, Rose Island. Rose Island was a nice beach and a world away from Nassau, despite its proximity. However, the reefs out from the beach do not provide a lot of protection at high tide and it can get rolly — very rolly. As the tide began to run, swell began coming over the reef and throwing up considerable breaking surf on the beach. Dominique pointed out the couple from the other boat, on the beach, who appeared to be struggling with their dinghy. It was clear that they were in trouble. I assessed the surf condition and determined that I should be able to land a little farther down where the waves were a bit smaller. Surfing fast onto the beach in our 8-foot inflatable was a blast, but I was aware it would be difficult getting out. Their dinghy was half-deflated, and full of sand and water, and they were exhausted and overwhelmed. There was no way they could get it launched and through the considerable surf without help. Their efforts to bail were completely futile as each wave kept swamping the boat over the transom and adding more sand to the already considerable load. There must have been 200 pounds of sand in it, and it was filled to the gunwales with water. The man and I managed to drag the boat a few feet farther up the beach and then as the wave went out, dumped it on its side to empty the water and sand quickly. We turned the boat around, bow out, and kept it riding over the waves as he reinflated the ailing boat. The exhausted couple got in the dinghy and I helped steady and walk them out past the surf zone as they got the motor started and zoomed off toward their sailboat. I did the same maneuver, solo, on my dinghy and safely made it out past the surf. I realized that we were the only other people around. Were we not there, the couple would have, at best, been stranded overnight on the beach until the tour boats arrived the next day. Cruisers help each other, that is the way, and I was happy to be of assistance. The next day, conditions were perfect for a run to the Berry Islands and we made a beautiful, fast beam reach North to Frozen Cay. Upon arrival at the cut, the tide
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was running out and throwing up sizable, steep, cross seas. I held on and safely navigated the cut, anchoring behind the island. We spend a quiet, easy night off the nearly uninhabited island. I took our dog, Ella, to shore and while walking her looked back to see the dinghy about 30 yards offshore and slowly drifting out to sea. I left Ella on the beach and dove into the water. I swam my ass off and managed to reach the dinghy. Had I not, it would have been lost for sure because Dominique on the Wackadoo would have had no way of knowing we were in trouble. The following day, we decided to head back up and around to Great Harbour Cay for a few days to hide from the next cold front. It was fun sail in sporting conditions that started on a beam reach, then close-hauled heading to the west past the cruise ships off their private island at the Northernmost end of the Berry Islands. We were double-reefed in 20 knots of true wind, but the seas were not considerable, and it was actually a fun beat. Turning south toward the marina channel, another boat was sailing nearby and the race was on! Their much larger, faster boat and a few tactical errors on my part resulted in us losing majorly, but it was still fun. We met the crew of Veela, a lovely couple with their teenage son, at the marina sponsored barbeque that evening and had a great time. Again, the Great Harbour Cay Marina staff was fantastic, and everyone was extremely friendly and helpful. With a few days to kill until the next cold front passed and conditions were right to continue, we decided to explore more of the island, met some of the locals, and had a great dinner at Brown’s Garden Restaurant, known to everyone on the island as “Ronnie’s.” It did not disappoint, the food was amazing, the owners friendly, and the prices were great. We had a blast, and full bellies! A few Kaliks later, we returned to the boat satisfied and ready for some rest. While Great Harbour is not the poshest of Bahamian locations today, as it was in its 1960s heyday, we thoroughly enjoyed it and found there was lots to do, great people, and great fun to be had. While we were there, I attempted to locate a replacement prop coupling
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pg 44-49 Run For Home - MKC.indd 5
and once again was reminded of the great cruiser community. I posted the extent of our issue on the Tartan 34C Association site for ideas, and a cruiser YouTube/podcaster, Spencer Litzenberger, of Sailing with the Litzenbergers, immediately hooked me up with some contacts in Nassau that might be able to find one for me (thanks again, Spencer). Meanwhile other Tartan 34C gurus gave me options for jury-rigging the coupling to allow continued limited use until we could get one. Ultimately, there were none to be found in stock in Nassau, but I ordered one to be waiting at the Ft. Pierce
Latitudes & Attitudes 47 4/24/21 3:28 PM
Run for Home West Marine upon our arrival in the U.S. Sailors helping sailors, it’s a great tradition. Once the weather cleared, it was time to make the run home. I opted to make the run to Ft. Pierce directly as it was becoming clear that this coronavirus issue was about to be serious as countries across Europe were locking down and cases were being reported in the U.S. We had a great, easy overnight sail across the channel from Great Harbor to West End in comfortable, broad reaching conditions. Our AIS monitor was full with cruise ship, freighter, superyacht, and pleasure boat traffic along the route and I was very glad to have AIS as a small boat among so many big, fast ships. We comfortably reached West End about 10:00 the next morning and briefly anchored to take Ella ashore and take a quick rest before continuing to Ft. Pierce. It turned out, I was more tired than I thought from the previous overnight sail, so we decided to spend a night before making the crossing back to the U.S. The next morning, we left with 15 to 20-knot south winds and 4 to 6-foot seas for what turned out to be the best sail of the trip. We blasted along with one reef in the main and a full genoa at about seven knots the whole way, plus a good push from the Gulf Stream. It was amazing, exhilarating, fast sailing, and it reminded me of why I love sailing small boats on the ocean. We reached Ft. Pierce in just over 10 hours, making our average speed for the 80 mile-passage a blistering 7.5 knots—not bad for a 50-yearold, 34-foot sailboat with an amateur crew and captain. We anchored in Ft. Pierce inlet and checked in via the Customs and Border Protection
48 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 44-49 Run For Home - MKC.indd 6
ROAM application before I took Ella ashore and walked to pick up some takeout for dinner. Welcome back to the USA! The next morning, I took the dinghy to town and West Marine where the prop coupling was waiting for us. Fifteen minutes of work and it was installed and good to go. The trip up the ICW was uneventful and filled with plenty of dolphins and easy stops for fuel and food. It was a fast but pleasant journey and we only ran slightly aground once in Georgia where the chart said we should have had 10 feet of water under the keel, but so goes it on the ICW. We simply waited a few hours for the tide to lift us and then found another spot to anchor. Everything was easy until a half-mile short of our home slip in Little River, South Carolina, when the Little River Swing Bridge decided to break. There aren’t too many marina options nearby, and nearly no anchorage options in the “rock pile,” a narrow stretch of channel cut in the bedrock near the Myrtle Beach area. Thankfully, the North Myrtle Beach RV Resort and Marina allowed us to sit on the fuel dock for the night to, hopefully, make the last half mile home the next day. Early the next morning I was at the boat, alone, and sat waiting for the bridge to be fixed. It wasn’t, but I had to depart the fuel dock. As I jogged in the channel, a big line of thunderstorms decided to w w w . L at s a t t s . c o m
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move through. Being soaked, trapped in the narrow channel now between two inoperative swing bridges, and with lighting all around was quite miserable—all while nearly in sight of our final destination. I decided to take a slip at NMB RV & Marina, and after a tricky docking in a strong cross-current, was tied up securely and went home. A few days later, the bridge was fixed. I motored the last halfmile and tied up at our slip with three days to spare before I was scheduled to return to work at my international, expat flying job — all just as Covid19 lockdowns cascaded across the nation. As it happened, all flights were cancelled and I could not go to work for another two months. Too bad we didn’t find out when we were in the islands — it would have been a lot more fun than sitting at the house. This trip was a great shakedown for us and the boat. The boat held strong, but we identified some things that could be better for longer-term cruising and how best to sail the boat in variable conditions. We encountered cold weather, hot weather, stormy weather, and beautiful weather. We fought rolly anchorages and learned to work with the tide and its effects on the sea state. We broke a few things and fixed a few things (I should probably carry a spare prop coupler). In all, it was a fantastic trip, and a great experience builder. We also learned that cruising on a timeline (unavoidable while working, even a flexible job like mine) AND having a distant goal location (Exumas) coupled with weather curveballs can cause a couple to wear themselves out by doing too much transiting and not enough resting. If we could replay this trip, taking these lessons into account, we would have gone slower and probably just stayed in the Berrys and other northern islands, or made w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m
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fewer, longer passages. I also would have considered prepositioning the boat in Florida before heading to work and leaving it there while I was at work for several months. That way we could avoid the two weeks of hard transit from SC on the ICW in January and March. If weather would have cooperated (not likely in January), we could have also gone offshore direct to the Abacos. We had a great trip, but going slower and taking more time to explore and relax, and less time moving would definitely have made it a more enjoyable experience. I look forward to the next time we can travel without Covid tests and so many restrictions. I envy and applaud those cruisers who have found a way to continue during the pandemic and feel for those who have gotten stuck. I raise a tot of rum to all sailors that are out there, stuck, or preparing for a voyage to a future full of adventure and great times! Adam and his wife, Dominique, are novice cruisers and the proud owners of a beautiful and well-kept 1969 Tartan 34C, s/v Wackadoo, which they recently sailed down the East Coast to the Bahamas, and back. Adam is a commercial pilot and Air Force Reserve officer, and Dominique is a pharmacy technician. Together, they are building their sailing experience to hopefully head off someday on a great cruising voyage, one step at a time.
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Latitudes & Attitudes 49 4/24/21 3:28 PM
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4/20/21 10:32 AM
The Great Gamble
By Kia Koropp
When playing a game where you don’t know the rules, it is a huge risk to lay it all down on the table before picking up the dice to roll on the bet you just made. We did just that earlier this year when we decided to travel during the Covid19 pandemic. We were in South Africa preparing Atea, our 50-foot Ganley Solution cutter-rigged sloop, for the next cruising season when countries around the world started closing down their borders due to the Covid-19 outbreak. With the beginning of March set as our departure time frame, we were working hard
to complete boat projects and preparations while being fully aware that as we progressed, so did this horrible disease. We worked hard during the day on getting the boat ready and followed the news at night, trying to determine how wide-spread and far-reaching the epidemic would travel. South African President Cyril Ramaphosa was warning the nation to stay calm and not panic at the exact time I was madly pushing around overloaded grocery carts, trying to get us ready for an extended time at sea. While I was used to this routine, the public was not accustomed to the sight of mass hoarding and gave steely glares,
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wagging fingers, and tsk tsks as I bulldozed my way through the aisles. While we may have offended the general public, we were met with much laughter by the marina staff as they watched our liquor stocks being unloaded onto the dock. I’d been out exploring a local wine region that day and the cellar owner had caught wind of a possible change in the lockdown level. After warning me it may be the last hour before sales would be capped, we negotiated a deal on 150 bottles of wine. She had been correct. The following day Ramaphosa announced a ban on all liquor sales. For the first time, the laugh was on us. The inevitable happened on March 17: Ramaphosa declared a State of National Disaster and the national guard was deployed to maintain order as strict lockdown measures were put into place. Borders were closed, curfews were set, all non-essential services were stopped, and people were asked to stay in their homes. With the boat in mid-repair, all workers were called off their jobs and the staff were sent home. We’d been running at full speed for a few weeks so the sudden inactivity felt decadent. The urgency to get everything completed as quickly as possible evaporated,
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and what followed was a period of calm. We pulled mussels off the rocks and clams out of the sand to cook with one of our uncorked bottles of wine. We played with the kids on the jetty and built a fort at the end of the pontoon that they camped out in for days. We puttered around the boat during the afternoon and had time for a movie or a game in the evening. The marina was situated on port property and sat on a long peninsula that extended into the bay. The area was registered as a protected nature reserve and provided a home to wild guinea fowl, cape spurfowl, dosie, and springbok; our outings were full of natural discoveries and beautiful landscapes. Off to one side of the peninsula was a private beach, and we quickly established a routine that included daily treks through the reserve, a quick splash in the surf, and beach games in the early evenings. With no one coming or going, we were free to roam and explore. With the rest of the population forced indoors, we were very aware of what a luxury our little oasis was. Our mooring was a small 20-berth marina with three other cruising boats on lockdown with us. At first we all maintained w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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our distance, enjoying a relaxed sunset social hour separated by an empty slip. By late March we had our first occasion to celebrate as one crew member had a birthday and we all agreed it was time to become properly acquainted. As the wine flowed, the music blared and we danced on deck into the early hours. The bond was quickly formed. For the reminder of our time in lockdown, these seven strangers became family. While we were enjoying each other’s company as a group, all of us were individually trying to figure out what our forward plan was going to be. All four boats had been intending to travel into the Atlantic this year and none of us knew the best course to take. Should we fold our cards and repatriate back home to New Zealand? Should we call our bet and wait out the lockdown in hopes of getting into Namibia and Saint Helena when the borders opened? Should we raise the bet and head for Brazil, where Covid was starting to run rampant but was still open to foreign visitors? Or should we go all in and head for Europe, where lockdown rules still applied? Eventually, John and I decided to go all in — we would not wait any longer. While Namibia and Saint Helena had been our highlight destinations,
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it didn’t look like they would be opening their borders anytime soon. Judging the cards on the table, we made the assumption that Europe would be the first to open their borders as they were the first to close them. With all countries still holding up a big “Do Not Enter” sign, we decided we would make our move. We laid our bet, flipped our cards, and let the showdown begin. On June 1, we sailed out in the thick morning fog under the nose of the Port Authority. That was day one of a 52-day sail from the South Atlantic to the North Atlantic. The conditions we experienced in transit were textbook: We had the southeast winds behind us for our first thousand miles, we sailed through the equator during our next thousand miles, we hit the doldrums the following thousand and the northeast trades a thousand miles after that. Our last thousand miles we sailed through the Azores High to our final destination, completing a 5,888-mile passage from Saldanha Bay in South Africa to Horta in the Azores. The gamble paid off. As we rolled into the Azores it was clear they had an efficient process in place. We were greeted by two men in PPE suits an hour after arrival with a bag of hamburgers w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
in one hand to complement the champagne we were drinking and a bag of fresh vegetables in the other. We were told to stay onboard for the night but invited ashore in the morning for a free Covid test with a 24-hour turn around on the result. By the morning of our second day we were officially welcomed into the country and given permission to travel throughout the islands. In a high-stakes game, the Azores was our sweet reward. The Azores was also our gateway into Europe. Things were still shifting in terms of the handing of Covid, and countries were easing and tightening restrictions by the week. As we prepared to depart the Azores for mainland Europe, it was hard to pick the destination. France and Spain were open, but Portugal was closed. Then France closed their borders, but Spain remained open. Then Spain closed, but Portugal opened. Travel in 2020 required a comfort with uncertain conditions and shifting parameters. We took what was available and at the time of departure Portugal still had the green light. Fortunately, it remained so during our two-month tour of Europe’s western Atlantic coast as we made our way from Porta to Portimao, exploring forts, castles, and churches while sipping and nibbling our way down the countryside. I assume that our experience here, as it was in the Azores, is much more tempered in nature than the usual tourism that buzzes about under non-crisis times. But looking through a glass half full, I can say there is beauty in traveling when the majority of travellers aren’t about. No bookings required. Sites void of the usual stampede. Anchorages more intimate in reduced numbers. No bars blasting dance music through the night. Less is so often more. Currently, there is a dramatic increase in the number of new Covid infections, and countries around the world are considering a second phase of national lockdowns. As we sail away from Portugal, France and Spain have just announced such measures. Some of the countries in the Caribbean are starting to echo the same. So, we set sail again under uncertain times, not knowing what will close when or where we will be when it happens. In poker terms, the current cruising season is one of win, lose, or draw. There are a great many cruisers who have folded their hand and cancelled plans for the year. For now, we are choosing to stay in the game. As all betting games go, no one is able to predict the winning hand; we drew a straight flush last time, but Covid is proving to be a mighty opponent. Our cards have been drawn as we cast our lines and set sail towards the Caribbean. Now we wait to see how the game will unfold. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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s a n i r a M e t i r u o v a ! F t a y e r M G o S W hy e r A d l r o W e h T d A ro u n
By Vicki Seymore
There is nothing like a welcoming marina after a long sea journey or a few stressful days in wind and seas larger than you’d like. You can tie up the boat, forget about the wind and the sea, and finally relax for a bit – not to mention, it’s much easier to get to all those jobs that need doing from a berth than out at anchor. I can’t say I’ve been to all of them, but I have definitely found a few favourite marinas as I have sailed around the world. But just what is it that is so great about them? They are not always the flashiest, nor do they always offer more services. Here’s what made me love these five marinas. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Why My Favourite Marinas Around The World Are So Great! Wind Creek (or Renaissance) Marina | Aruba www.windcreekmarina.com
Apart from the very friendly staff, this place is all about location, location, location — and ownership. As part of the Renaissance Resort complex, you get access to all the hotel amenities — not only the excellent pools and the laundry facilities of the hotel itself, but to the private Renaissance island, complete with complimentary towels, sun loungers, hammocks, and beaches — of course, and the company of the very stately strutting pink flamingos of Instagram fame. Could you ask for more? Oh, and then there is the water. Aruba is famous for its water, second best in the world! As you head east, you will hear people talking about how much water from Aruba they have left — a prized possession.
Other bonuses: The shops are right there if you want them,
and the little movie theatre beside the marina has the latest films for you to have a bit of a catch up – yes, in English! What’s more, Aruba is out of the hurricane belt, and with all this entertainment on hand is a perfect place to sit out the season or have as a base to sail between the ABCs if you need to stretch your sails.
Cost: It’s cheap – a crazy good deal when you consider what you get.
Downsides: Well, it’s not the flashiest of marina piers around, but quite frankly, who would care?
Port Denarau Marina | Fiji www.denaraumarina.com
The people. Fiji knows how to do friendly and kind so well and it starts as soon as you arrive in the marina. That aside, it’s a modern marina and very secure. Additionally, the laundry facilities are the best I have seen and very cheap – you can wash all the blankets and cushions in these commercial machines and it will cost you peanuts!
Other bonuses: The marina has a lot of buzz with plenty of shops, restaurants, and services nearby. The spa options are definitely worth checking out. Cost: It’s on the moderate to cheaper end of the scale.
Downsides: During cane burning season you can get the smell of smoke in the air, and ash might drift on your boat occasionally.
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Port Louis | Grenada
en.cnmarinas.com/port-louis-marina It is a mixture of things. The general setting and scenery is varied and pleasant, and made even more so with a lovely pool to cool off in. It’s also in a great location – definitely worth having your dinghy in the water as it’s easy to get to chandleries and the town in your dinghy from the marina, which is always more enjoyable than heading along roads and traffic.
Other bonuses: The marina is just
below the hurricane belt, so it’s a good option for the off-season. There is a great bread shop nearby with yummy cinnamon rolls – get in early. I also definitely recommend the Yolo Sushi Bar and Restaurant – try the volcano roll! Oh, the bathrooms are pleasant as well.
Cost: Heading toward the more expensive end of the scale.
Downsides: Expensive laundry and not very secure – keep your boat locked.
Sandy Lane Yacht Club | Canouan, St. Vincent and the Grenadines www.slycr.com
There’s nothing like the six-star treatment, which at this marina starts the minute you call them to say you are arriving. Eager dockhands with a cool face cloth and bottle of water await you on arrival and check in, and it only gets better. The facilities include a gorgeous, gently curving white sand beach and a lovely cool pool where you can sip your martinis from the high-end bar and restaurant alongside. They also have a handful of boutique shops – the bakery being a place you will definitely return to more than once. And the pièce de résistance? The bathrooms! Oh ladies – the bathrooms. Fabulous, darling, fabulous. Other bonuses: Down the end of the marina canal there is a lovely beach and rockpool – and the even better Scruffy’s bar and restaurant. It was built for crew and staff, but is very definitely a great place to frequent. Enjoy having a few beers in the rock pool before heading back to those luxury showers. The marina will also organise hire of a golf cart for you to explore the island. It’s a load of fun – this is a hilly island and I’m not sure golf carts were designed for what we put ours through, but we had an awful lot of fun.
Cost: Expensive – as you would expect from a six-star facility. Downsides: It’s expensive (but oh so worth it), and you won’t want to leave! w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Why My Favourite Marinas Around The World Are So Great!
Victoria & Albert Marina | Cape Town, South Africa
www.waterfront.co.za/business/marine/the-marina/
You are right in the heart of the V&A entertainment and shopping centre – and it’s big, bright, and fabulous after a long time without anything like this. I don’t think there is anything you can’t get there – from gorgeous crafts to staple foods and high-end fashions. If that’s not enough to entice you, it is an extremely secure marina and has fantastic views of Table Mountain.
Other bonuses: For animal lovers like me, there are resident seals to entertain you, and the occasional sunfish may pop by your boat to give you a wave. You can get out your paddle board and enjoy the waterways around the boats as well. The marina staff also collect your garbage every day. Cost: Moderate – and worth it. Downsides: The local residents in the adjacent apartments get very upset if you hang any laundry on your boat, so it is not allowed. They may also be overlooking your cockpit, depending on where you are berthed.
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64 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 64-69 Current & Gale Humbles Docking Perfectionist! - MKC.indd 2
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By Doug Neal
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Current and Gale Humble Docking Perfectionist
“Release the spring line, hurry!” I shouted over the howling night wind to my wife, Angelique, who had already moved forward to the next dock cleat to secure the bow. Up until that point, everything had been going according to plan; just as we had discussed and rehearsed in our heads multiple times during our passage from Fort Lauderdale to St. Simons Island, but I had miscalculated. The horror of my mistake materialized instantly as the stern of our 2007 25-ton Hylas 54, Naboo, swung wildly and accelerated away from the dock — pivoting on the taut aft spring that was fastened midship. We both knew that we had only seconds before the strong ebbing current astern combined with the rising gale-force wind from the same direction would make the situation become, as boaters say, expensive, as the cement piling supporting the floating dock loomed in our path. Angelique was focused on securing the bow, as planned, and couldn’t hear me over the screaming wind. But, even if she could, it was too late. The spring line was pulled so tight that un-cleating was an impossibility. Crash! The 73-pound Rocna, standing watch on our bow, struck the rectangular dock piling with the agonizing screech of polished metal on cold concrete. “Full-reverse!” my inner captain’s voice yelled. I dutifully obeyed and demanded 3500 RPM from the 125-horsepower steel beast below. I have learned to rely on the mechanical, hydraulic, and electronic systems on Naboo, like many sailors when moving up to bigger boats. That being said, I’m sometimes nostalgic for my earlier days of sailing 20-30 footers, when I could muscle a sheet or fend off from the dock by hand. Of course, as I write this, the saying “The grass is always greener…” chides me, as I remember drooling over the thought of someday owning electric winches when I was sailing our 35-foot sloop off Southern California decades ago, but that doesn’t erase the trade-off one must make. If
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Current and Gale Humble Docking Perfectionist you want to go big, you have to exchange your reliance on muscle for trust in systems — which may, at some time fail. But not today. “Full-reverse-aye!” the steel beast bellowed in response. This was seconded by the growing vibrations of the engine revving beneath my feet which comforted me since I couldn’t hear anything through the ferocity of the wind. I spun the helm to port and braced myself in anticipation of freeing Naboo from this dangerous crash landing. And yet, the boat did not move. It is as if we were hard aground on a rocky shoal as the anchor blade was gripping the far side of the piling, setting firmer than the strongest holding ground. Pinned between the cement piling and a raging current with a rising gale, stern 60
degrees from the dock held by a single straining mid-aft spring that could break at any moment. Cue panic. We recently purchased Naboo in Fort Lauderdale after a multi-year search for THE boat (our fifth, actually). Our search criteria were somewhat simple, yet very specific: we wanted a 50 to 60-foot bluewater monohull for speed and comfort on the open ocean, a protected rudder and watertight bulkheads for safety, and something that pulled at our heartstrings — the you-know-it-when-you-see-it test. And, of course, our budget. Naboo ticked every box. Since we are not yet retired, we have set aside multiple weekends and brief vacations throughout the year to move her up the East Coast, through the St. Lawrence, to our home in Michigan while managing the conflict of wanting to see as many new ports as possible with the limited free time of the still-working class. I count myself as one of the fortunate few, as I have been married to my first mate, best friend, lover, and soulmate for almost 30 years. I am inspired by her courage when facing tough sea conditions, and I’m grateful for her confidence in my sailing skills. As we near the empty-nest phase of our 30+ year voyage together, Naboo is the perfect platform to help us achieve our dreams. We had left Fort Lauderdale two days previously, directly into a strong northerly which was forecasted to clock around to the east
Leaving Lauderdale
Doug and Angelique before leaving Fort Lauderdale
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and south as a low-pressure system off the East Coast was currently dumping record snow across New York while headed on its transatlantic journey. We stayed west of the Gulf Stream, which can be very dangerous in these conditions and proceeded north under power 7 to 10 nautical miles from shore, for about 6 hours, battling 8 to 10-foot head-on seas. I was impressed with how Naboo’s German Frers designed bow sliced through the waves, never pounding and prop never cavitating as I experienced on lighter production sailboats in these conditions. Finally, we sought refuge in Lake Worth Inlet to catch some rest and check our systems. Naboo proved that she could handle these conditions, but the crew needed a break. The next morning, we left at dawn, heading to St. Simons Island with a goal of Broad reaching up the coast
completing the passage in 36 hours. The easterly, at 15-18 knots, was right on cue, and we relished the beam, then broad-reaching, cruising up the Florida coast averaging 8.5 knots. We entered the St. Simons Inlet channel near Buoy G3 just after dusk and as we turned to 330 degrees-true, the winds increased to 30 knots. It was clear that nothing about this landing was going to be easy. As we approached the floating transient dock, Angelique was busy making final preparations on deck for a port-side tie-up, adjusting fenders and readying lines. I knew our approach would be with the wind and current, so I informed Angelique that we were going to test the conditions by slowing the boat in reverse in the channel. I set the throttle to idle, and then gently into reverse, slowly increasing the RPMs until the forward momentum was nullified. We were now 75 feet abeam of our target and the boat was steady. I then carefully adjusted the helm to port, then center, then port again, adding in some minor bow thrusting for good measure. In a delicate dance, Naboo slid gently sideways in the current and wind. I was so proud of how well this was working, and I wish someone would have been onshore to appreciate the beauty of this large vessel gently sliding sideways towards her berth. The distance to the dock continued to shrink, and
Sunset off the coast
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Current and Gale Humble Docking Perfectionist bow careening into the concrete piling, holding us there firmly as if a professional wrestler had just pinned us to the mat. I was tempted to jump off the boat onto the dock and help Angelique with the lines, but I knew the two of us would not be able to pull the stern closer on our own. And if the spring line fails, there would have been nothing stopping Naboo, with its 74-foot mast, from being carried 200 yards north into a losing battle with the 9-foot clearance of the island causeway. Fortunately, my wife and I have been sailing together long enough that after our brief panic, we got to work. It became clear that the spring line was simultaneously saving us from being dragged away by the current and locking us in place against the anchor gripping the cement piling. It would have to be cut away. Before doing that, we took one of the longest dock lines we had and secured the port stern cleat of Naboo to the farthest aft cleat on the dock that we could reach (about 30 feet!), and took up the slack. This would become our new pivot point once the spring line was cut. Next, Angelique eased out and secured the bow line with as much slack as she could. Even though the bow would not move, the slack would be taken up once we were free. The final step in this plan was for Angelique to Naboo at dock next cut the to cement pilings that she was hung up on
we reveled in the beauty of our plan: the boat would nestle itself gently alongside the dock, allowing Angelique to easily step off and begin executing the docking plan. My docking plan, however, was for a completely different situation. In normal conditions, a boat that is docked to port with a mid-aft spring secured first can be held in position with minor forward thrust, and the wheel turned slightly to starboard. We have done this with ease many times before. In this configuration, the boat will stay locked in place, pressed gently against the dock with her forward movement arrested by the spring line. This allows time to secure or remove the other lines. Perhaps it was a lack of sleep, but I was convinced that we were stopped at the dock, and at night with a howling wind the visual illusion concurred, but in reality, we were still fully in reverse, doing 3+ knots over water. As soon as the mid-aft spring was secured, I proceeded to put the engine in neutral, then forward gear, while simultaneously turning the helm slightly to starboard. Instantly, the strong current and wind grabbed hold of the boat, slammed the rudder fully to starboard, and swiftly forced the stern away from the dock. We pivoted on the straining dock line, which sent the
Minor damage occurred to our anchor pin after the collision
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straining spring line, as it was under tremendous force and impossible to un-cleat. I handed her my pocket knife, and instantly we both realized that this little knife was no match for the 7/8”-thick line. But she was ready for the task, and as soon as she touched the knife to the line, it exploded. Instantly, the Rocna yielded its grip on the cement holding, and the boat pivoted parallel to the dock, held by the long port stern line and now tight bow line. I was then able to once again put Naboo in reverse, and regain our backwards momentum over the water. Increasing thrust and again gently guiding the stern, Naboo slid to port and nestled once again against the floating dock likely silently cursing her negligent captain. Angelique took up the slack in the stern, spring, and bow lines which then allowed me to relieve the beast below of its duty with an idle setting — and I finally exhaled. We were now secured properly. Success! Having just completed two days of ocean sailing, we were already tired upon reaching St. Simons Sound. But after the adrenaline-rushed docking, we were now thoroughly exhausted. I proceeded to inspect the damage forward and do the absolute bare minimum amount of deck cleanup necessary, while Angelique went below to prepare a hot meal and select a welldeserved bottle of cabernet for us to enjoy. Fortunately, the only casualties, besides my pride, were a scratch in the chrome anchor roller casing and a bent anchor locking pin, both of which hardly register in the encumbrance of boat ownership. We were lucky. Since being back home in Michigan, with four inches of snow on the ground, I have been replaying this crash-landing in my mind imagining different ways I could have handled it better. I admit I’m known in my family as a docking perfectionist and frequently enjoy improving my knowledge with meandering searches on YouTube. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Angelique is kind as I have never actually caught her rolling her eyes when I excitedly show her some new technique I’ve just discovered. I must have missed the Stopped-at-Dock-Fullyin-Reverse video which I have now added to my growing mental-video library. It comes with a bonus first-person 3D Director’s cut, rated G, for Grateful to be secure at dock. Author and first mate in Fort Lauderdale, FL, glad to be home!
Naboo, glad to be back safely at her home port
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By Paul Kortenkamp
Virtual Cruising
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Editor’s Note: Paul Kortenkamp wrote this story shortly before he passed away from a heart attack. Paul was a long time part of the Latitudes & Attitudes family, and he will be missed.
This issue in Virtual Cruising, we check in with two very different styles of YouTube sailing channels. Both are monohulls with international crew, and both have hundreds of thousands of subscribers: Uma and Expedition Drenched. Their very different styles and content highlight one of the best things about getting out there… anyone can go cruising! You don’t need to spend years learning to sail or be able to repair anything the ocean might throw. You just need to be ready to learn, explore, and embrace the adventure.
Dan and Kika aboard Uma Feel you don’t know enough about sailing, boats, or cruising? Uma, with Dan and Kika, famously promotes not buying a couch. Why? As Kika from Uma notes, “It is about not following someone else’s dream and not going down a path of consumption and debt.” As Dan from Uma stated, “We never owned a boat, did not know anything about sailing, and decided we would start documenting the whole process how to get from zero to one in hopes to inspire those longing to start their own journey.” They started from learning how to video the process, to doing the repairs, to sailing and sharing adventures. They don’t just share their sailing adventures; they teach us how they accomplish them. Done on a scrappy budget starting with only a $3,000 boat, over fit years they totally refit her while sailing from the Caribbean to the Arctic Circle in Norway. Their show is part hard work and part sharing the rewards of such determination.
Virtual Cruising
Expedition Drenched, with Nate and Jordan, took quite a different path to starting their channel and building their amazing, huge cast of international crew. Starting from backpacks of camera gear, they sailed with others,
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learned many lessons, and jumped straight to their first boat, a massive 23-meter steel ketch with berths for 16 crew. Their evolution is totally unique on YouTube. About the only thing the two channels share in common is
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Sylfia at anchor
amazingly, each boat has only one head! You may have seen Nate and Jordan before on some other popular channels because they have a very welldeserved reputation as one of the best underwater camera teams. Prior
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to starting their own sailing project, they spent time with some of the very best cruising channels: Sophisticated Lady (from the Fall 2020 article), Delos (cover of the Summer issue), and La Vagabonde (who famously sailed Greta Thunberg from USA to EU
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Virtual Cruising
Sailing Vessel Uma under sail
last summer). If you were to learn from the best, you could not have selected better. The reason they were able to have such opportunities now shows in their own channel: they are great travelers and crew, and they have an amazing talent to share our underwater world. Nate
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stated it simply, “Our purpose is to make people fall in love with the ocean.” Expedition Drenched features an expedition yacht larger than almost any other channel, and a crew full of international underwater adventure enthusiasts. Uma is a couple
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The crew of Drenched visting a village
from Canada and Haiti sailing a small, highlymodified, electric sailboat. Enjoying the differences in style and content, being a virtual cruiser has the advantage of allowing us to be in two different hemispheres at the same time. We find Drenched in the South Pacific and Uma currently in Norway. The boat Drenched showcases some of the best underwater footage on the internet, but they are not some David Attenborourgh Blue Planet show. This crazy crew of people from all over the world, with many different personalities, explore the cultures of the islands they visit while showing some underwater gems in the process. Viewers easily connect to someone in the crew. Additionally, for those of you that miss the YouTube cat videos, they have a salty pig named Peanut. Certainly, they are capable of doing serious underwater science documentaries, but as Nate stated, “Scientists don’t speak in layman’s terms. Starting their sentences always with ‘so basically’ which is followed with nothing that is basic.” To this end, the channel feels like you’re part of the crew and not part of a classroom. Drenched also appeals to viewers outside a typical sailing channel. The best example of their eclectic appeal is their most viewed episode with over 15 million views which has zero underwater footage or sailing footage. This whole episode is focused on the art and tradition of Samoan tattoos. Nate has a full back tattoo of his spirit animal, a manta ray, and shares a
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Virtual Cruising
Sylfia whale watching
Cave diving
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powerful story about how that animal started him down the path that led to the sailboat Sylfia and the show Expedition Drenched. Nate shared, “This episode actually grew in views very slowly, but it has now spread to a whole new audience that is learning about cruising.” Again, one of the best things about being a virtual cruiser is experiencing completely different styles of how to cruise. With real-life proof electric motor yachts are more than an idea, Uma shows us you don’t require a million dollars of space technology to sail electrically. Uma has a totally different look, feel, and focus. Like you find while cruising, there are people from many different perspectives all enjoying the life of cruising. Dan and Kika show exceptional design talents and a fearless wiliness to cut up their boat, even below the water line. They are on a 36-foot Pearson from 1972. They bought her shortly after graduating with architectural degrees. Unlike other YouTubers, they had no video experience and doubled down with having no sailing experience. We get to see from the start how not buying a couch can lead to a lifestyle of exploring the world, learning along the way, and sharing. They removed the broken diesel at the very start and have been running an electric motor sailboat now for years, even crossing the Atlantic. Their show highlights the travel and the simple joy of living a life within your means. That stated, they also are exceptionally bright and share
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The Soloman Islands (Photo by drone)
many ideas that will make anyone with a boat question, “What improvements and upgrades should be next?” In conversations with both these very different channels, there were two similar messages they both conveyed: “Sharing gives the adventures purpose beyond just seeing cool things.” And “We thought about what we wanted and kept connecting the dots, in the end it made a picture that looked like a sailboat.” These comments together made me pause with a sudden vision. Different shows and personalities can draw in very different people… just like opening a copy of Lats & Atts suddenly provides comfort from a shared passion, and often even new company, at a salty bar anywhere in the world… So, take a copy of this issue and open it up at the next remote bar you visit and watch the magic of sharing this cruising passion unfold. Expedition Drenched and Uma create becuase they hope more people are inspired by the ocean and sailing, something we can all agree on. Big budget or small, salty or dusty, YouTube is finally catching up to showing many different amazing ways the lifestyle we love from Lats & Atts is growing!
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What’s Out There? Cruising Monohull
There’s a new game in town, and it’s the Contest 55CS. It has what most cruisers are looking for: a stunning combination of style, design, and luxury. The newly redesigned Contest 55CS remains true to its long-standing reputation as a bluewater performance cruiser, while maintaining it’s great looks and feel. This boat has been designed to take a cruising family anywhere in the world they want to go, in comfort and style. They have managed to give the boat owner plenty of space above and below decks, while maintaining ease of handling. Above decks you will find a vessel that is easy to handle by a cruising couple, and at the same time the design will brinågs looks of envy from those who see her under sail. This boat was designed for both beauty and performance from the ground up.
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The Contest 55CS was built in collaboration with naval architects judel/vrolijk & co design + engineering, and interior designers Wetzels Brown Partners. This newly redesigned model also brings much of the superyacht styling and features of the Contest 85CS and Contest 67CS to a size that fits the lifestyle of the smaller cruising family, or even couple! Just look at that coachroof sweeping back into the expansive twin cockpit plan. This attention to detail, outside and in, is new to the industry for a boat this size. Especially in a yacht so sleek, yet also so accommodating. The decks are vacuum-bonded sustainable teak, and the deck plan incorporates a walk-through cockpit for simple and surefooted working and side deck access. If you’ve been considering a cruising monohull in this size, we suggest this could be the boat you are looking for!
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Contest 55CS
GET ALL THE FACTS: www.ContestYachts.com
Contest 55CS LOA 55.75’ LWL 51.94’ Draft (shoal / deep) 8.37’ Beam 16.47’ Displacement 55,027 lbs. Power Volvo Penta 150hp Fuel 224.6 USG Fresh Water 191.5 USG w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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What’s Out There?
Cruising Catamaran
The folks at Seawind Catamarans have come up with a vessel designed for extended ocean crossings. The Seawind 1600 has a cruising personality, but is also a highperformance sailing vessel. The use of carbon and Kevlar in the hulls with collision bulkheads make the boat both safe and fast. The high aspect retracting dagger boards add both performance and practicality The interior shows the experience their designers have in combining comfort and easy maintenance for the cruising couple or family. The light oak interior shows Italian style, while the teak interior option offers the classic styling many offshore cruisers love. The chic grey of the oak interior contrasts well with the modern walnut floor timbers. Soft LED lighting and a quality sound system enhance the carefully planned atmosphere aboard.
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The Seawind 1600 has been named the SAIL Best Boat, in the category “Best Large Multihull 50ft and Above. The 1600 strikes a balance between comfort and performance by paying close attention to weight saving throughout the design. Strategically placed carbon fibre reinforcements to the daggerboard case, bow, and other areas not only make the 1600 stiff and fast, but also gives her the beachability that so many Seawind catamarans are known for. Through the use of retracting daggerboards and rudders, the 1600 is safe on a sandy shoal. The minimum draft is 2 feet, 1inch. That means the Seawind 1600 can enter many areas typically reserved only for mini-keeled multihulls or daysailers, such as reefs and sandy inlets. Want to know more? Visit their site at www.seawindcats.com.
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Seawind 1600
GET ALL THE FACTS: www.SeawindCats.com
Seawind 1600 LOA 51’8” LWL 51’6’ Draft (shoal / deep) 4’7” / 8’6” Beam 25’10” Displacement 28,000 lbs Power two 57 hp Yanmars Fuel 200 USG Fresh Water 155 USG Mast Height 71’8” w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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What’s Out There? Power Cruiser
The new N41 is following in the footsteps of its slightly smaller brother, the venerable Nordhavn 40, which holds the world record for the fastest circumnavigation by a production powerboat. Their plan was to use all of their experience and start from scratch and incorporate the world’s most advanced computational fluid dynamics analysis to produce a capable, efficient, safe and sea kindly Passagemaker. The all new Nordhavn 41. Their test hull pushed above eight knots, and at that speed, she just burns 4.1 gallons per hour. The increased waterline length and a slightly less displacement improved output to the twin engines and the configuration of the props. And, in the event of an engine failure, the boat can maintain cruising speed on one engine Like her predecessor, the N41 was built to go long distances and has the ability and range to do it. For
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ocean crossings, the N41 has a range of approximately 2,100 nm at 7 knots. The N41 at approximately 6 knots burns 1.66 gph and has a range of more than 3,300 nm. The N41 is proving to have a very global reach, with about half of the first dozen hulls being sold to international clients. There’s been considerable interest from both international and North American buyers taking delivery of the boat directly from the factory in Turkey, cruising the Rhine, Danube, and around the Mediterranean before returning her to a major European shipping port, such as Mallorca, and having PAE take care of transport, offload, and service in Florida so she can resume exploring around the Americas and Caribbean. Nordhavn has been known as the power cruiser made for world cruising, and this new N41 fits that bill and more. For more information you can go to www.Norhavn.com.
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Nordhavn N41
GET ALL THE FACTS: www.Nordhavn.com
Nordhavn N41 LOA 41’ LWL 40’ Draft (shoal / deep) 4’6.5” Beam 13’4” Displacement 43,300 lbs Power Two Betamarine 85T Fuel 900 USG Fresh Water 300 USG Grey Water 70 USG Black Water 70 USG w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Underway! Ever wondered why people love the boating lifestyle? Well, here in the Underway section, folks from all over the world show us what it’s really like out there. If you have a photo you think tells a good tale, why not send it to us? We prefer you send a digital pic in the highest resolution possible. Tell us who took the pic and where it was taken. We will probably throw it into our “digital pile” and pull it out someday. We won’t send you any money, but you will be famous worldwide! Email to: Underway@LatsAtts.com.
By Bill Mathus, heading south, but not fast enough, aboard s/v Carolina Soul in Georgia w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Curt and Jill Albro aboard Namahana in Mexico
By Steve Dudka, Degage at anchor
By Chris Geankoplis of s/v Enosis entering Island of Procida in Bay of Naples, Italy By Russ & Lori Rackliffe in the Bahamas
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By Eugene Weathrup, sailing north on the west coast of Florida, 55 miles from Anclote Key to Cedar Key with 10-knot winds from the east
By Doug Shiply, underway
By Randy Hicks, on Grapevine Lake, TX, aboard Rhondavous
By Capt. Howard Clayman, in Herzliya, Israel
By Monica Rae, Taken at Shroud Cay in the Exumas w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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By Cindy Holden, on Tenacity
By Mike Stinson
By Jeff Thornton, off s/v Grace in Fort Pierce, FL
By Gary Peterson, Mexico
By John Simpson, Firth of Clyde during a cool April
By Tom Young, a boat just south of Snook Bight Marina in Fort Myers Beach, FL, exemplifies the term “high and dry”
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By Chris, of Trinity at anchor for the night in Westbrook, CT w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
By Peter Nangeroni, of Blu Lagoon, St. Vincent in the Windwards
By Ken Shelli Branch, Last Trade’s final sail near the “Dogs” in the BVI, two months before our relocation to Florida
CB Stokes and Shelstad kids getting splashed on the trampoline on crossing down to St. Croix
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By Rob Hawkins, chillin’ in Princess Cove off Wallace Island of the Gulf Islands in Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada
By Sandy Edmonson
By Mark, of Deb by Shoe Tree in the Bahamas
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A goal without a plan is just a wish. - Larry Elder
By Max Shaw, in Rongerik testing our survival suits before heading from the Marshall Islands to Dutch Harbor in the Aleutians 3700 NM away
By Len Dewit, of daughter studying while cruising
By Terry Billingsby, on a Catalina 301 on Watauga Lake in Butler, TN
By (grandfather) Ray Muzika, of Lila at the wheel of The Pride of Baltimore
A goal without a plan is just a wish. - Larry Elder
By BL Muzyka
By Jessica, crewing in Maine
By Jeff, of Marie and Abby aboard Ppalu in the Caribbean w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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By Chuck Calvert, summer on the hook in the San Juan Islands By Tom, of Evelyn at age 82 sailing Raritan Bay
By Dave, aboard the s/v Call Me Crazy, sailing Narragansett Bay, RI
By Steve Olson, dinghy touring in Nuevo Vallarta, MX
By Kevin and Andrea Clark, in the BVI
By Mary Ann Hopkins, of Diego as she motored out for a sail in Tampa Bay
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By Richard Frankhulzen, of White Bay in Guana Island
By Donna, of the BVI
By Jeff Inshaw, in the Caribbean By Rick Andrews
By Captain Tony, in the Turks & Caicos Islands
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By Ron Koris, of a cat that needs to go on the wagon!
I’m almost always doing something, and when I’m not, I should be!
By Robert Feld, in Newport Beach
Lori Bergstresser on Ma Mere on Lake Ponchartrain in New Orleans
By Marlene Murphy, hiding from the rain in Indian River FL,
By Michael Carr, a day on the boat
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By Robin Stout, of race day
By Jason and Molly Camper, anchored out in Pueblo, CO, a balmy 8ºF on our Catalina 320, s/v Chasing Rays
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By Mark Simmons, the crew of Au Soleil at the Baths in Virgin Gorda
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A T Liv ria ea l bo ar By
Na
tha n (an and d S Ka on te ny Jo ne )
s
d
We bought our 1997 Hunter 376 in 2019 and keep it on Tampa Bay. This is our sixth boat, with most being fishing boats. We did own a sailboat for a year— over a decade ago. And we enjoyed our time on it, but did not sail far or often. It was mostly our condo on the water. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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A Trial Liveaboard Since purchasing this Hunter, we have taken two one-week trips: one within Tampa Bay, one to Burnt Store. Once Covid started, we spent almost every weekend on the boat, sailing around the bay with Sonny, our miniature pinscher. After returning from Burnt Store in July, we agreed to take a trip to the Florida Keys after Christmas. Nathan wanted to reserve a dock for two months, but Kate insisted only one month because she didn’t want to be gone that long. These are our testimonials of our trial run for liveaboard and cruising while working. General Thoughts on Cruising Prior to Trip: HIM: I have dreamed about the cruising lifestyle on and off over the years. I love being on the water. I worked on boats in college, racking up over a thousand sea days as first mate on 100-ton passenger vessels, and I’ve even done a delivery from Maine to Florida (but never got a captain’s license). I have owned fishing boats and fished hard for years, but that was always with the guys. Now I decided to try going to the dark side and buy a “blow boat” so that hopefully I can do more with Kate and eventually sail off on our own adventures. For years I have read Lats & Atts, Good Old Boat, and related books. Several times a week I watch YouTube sailing channels, but Kate finds them boring. I have been impressed by Sailing UMA and others who take a nearly worthless boat and create a dream life. I am not starting with a cheap boat. It is a high price to this risky venture, but I am willing to give it a try. I have spent the last 20 years in an office and want more out of life. I want to feel like I am living life and not just getting through it with a few weekends to actually live. Little weekend and weeklong trips are nice, but if we are not going to do real adventures, I don’t know that is worth owning this boat. As stated by Bob Bitchin, just set a date. So I did, at least for a trial run to the Florida Keys. HER: Nathan has a fantasy about cruising, but it just does not appeal to me. I don’t want to give up my house, car, space, my hair stylist, my nail tech, and other luxuries.
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Sonny: I like going to the boat. It gets me out of the house a lot and the neighbors always give me treats. Mom and dad never give me as many treats as these wonderful people at the marina. I don’t know why we have to move the boat all the time. It is a really long day for a small dog like me to hold it. Leading Up to Departure: HIM: I am busy every weekend trying to make sure the boat is ready and I am ready to handle everything on my own. Over the past year, Kate learned to handle the helm station. I added a wifi system since I will be working remotely. I am hopeful that this goes well. I want to expand our use of the sailboat beyond being a weekend home. However, Kate is not excited and doesn’t even want to do this trip. In the last few weeks before departing, I tell friends we will either come back happy or divorced. HER: As the trip approaches, I am overwhelmed with anxiety. I do not want to take this trip but I have to. Did I pack enough? What am I going to do without a car? How am I going to get my hair and nails done? What am I going to do with my time? The Trip South: HIM: Finally D-day has arrived. I planned this to be an easy ride down the coast from Tampa Bay to Marathon over six days plus a couple days in case of weather. We move onto the boat the day after Christmas, ready for departure the next day. Unfortunately, a full moon winter tide prevents us from leaving the dock till after lunch. The first day is a slow sail across the bay and anchoring at Longboat Pass. We have a nice sail down the coast and drop anchor on the beach in front of the lighthouse at Boca Grande. During the night, the wind and waves turn to 90 degrees to each other and practically throw us out of bed. I quickly add a line from the stern to the anchor line and turn our bow into the waves. A few hours later, we are up at first light and on our way again. Winds are turning to the southeast, pushing us farther west. As we get close to Captiva, the winds turn east and are on our nose headed to Ft. Myers Beach. Time for the iron genny. The marina we reserved had a mix-up in reservations, but all is good once we are moved to the far dock. We plan to stay two nights so that Kate can get a break and enjoy making stops as part of cruising. Our next stop is Marco Island for anchoring. A large trawler runs through the inlet at full speed, kicking off a large wake that lifts us and slams us on the bottom as we are navigating the shoaling inlet. I hope nothing is broken, at least as nothing is leaking. The next day we wait for high tide to start our crossing to we’re gonna have to motor. That’s ok, Marathon. The winds are on our nose — we have autopilot, well we did until two hours into this leg. As Captain Ron says, it’s gonna happen out there. We hand-steered the next 14 hours until dropping anchor off Fanny Keys. After a few-hour nap and a phone call to the marina, we pulled into our new home at Marathon Marina and Resort. A few hiccups, but no disasters. What a great trip, I am loving this. HER: The trip down was fine. I am not really enjoying being cold for several days. (We only have a bimini top.) I just want to get this over with. We had to motor part of the way from Boca Grande to Ft. Myers Beach. When we finally arrive at our dock for two nights in Ft. Myers Beach, I am so glad just to be stable. However, the marina has overbooked the transient docks, so they move us three times. In the morning, we wake up to find the boat at least two feet out of the water, leaning on the rudder, held up only by the floating dock. This is not good. But not all is lost. Nathan works it out with the marina to move us to deeper water once the tide rises and we get to spend some time exploring and window shopping. I even find a stuffed toy lionfish for Sonny. The second night here, we decide to close down the bar here at the marina, but for us that means a large chocolatey dessert. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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A Trial Liveaboard Nathan’s rule is no drinking before sailing. Our next stop is Marco Island for one night. It is New Years Eve, Nathan is tired and crawls into bed around 9pm. But I stay up and enjoy a lovely evening of simply watching some YouTube and relaxing. This is peaceful and quiet. Tomorrow is our longest leg, a run across Florida Bay to Marathon. The winds are against us, so we decide to motor our way across the bay to arrive first thing in the morning. I will never make fun on the YouTube sailors anymore for motoring. I now understand motoring versus tacking back and forth. Sonny: This trip won’t seem to end. I am cold and spend most of the day under the blanket. I have held it for two days and finally have to let it go and I am just going to right here so I know how much I had to hold. Now Dad wants me to go on this carpet thing in the shower. This is weird. When are we going back to our dock? Living Aboard in Florida Keys: HIS: This has been an amazing time. While I am trapped by my laptop and Zoom calls during the day, I get to enjoy breaks on the docks, evenings socializing with other cruisers, amazing sunsets, and happy hours everywhere. Of course, doing Zoom calls in the tropics with real backgrounds while coworkers are snowed in just makes the experience that much more enjoyable. Why would anyone want to leave? I don’t want to wait until retirement to enjoy this. After two weeks, we discuss our departure date and decide to align with the holiday in February, extending our stay two weeks. My little trick to stay longer worked! Then Kate asks the marina to reserve us for next year and puts down the deposit. That’s a good sign. After four weeks, I ask the marina how much I owe for the next two weeks and what it would be for the whole month, only $200 more. I brief Kate and she says let’s stay. Victory! I get the two months I originally wanted! HER: It would be nice to have a kayak, paddleboard, or something to do during the day while Nathan works. I visit the aquarium, go to happy hour, sit on the deck
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watching sunsets, but I am kinda bored. I purposefully buy small bottles of milk, fruit, etc. just so that I have an excuse to walk to get more. If I come back, I need to have something to do with my time. The great thing though is all the like-minded people. There is great comradery here. Within a few days we made some new friends and have an excuse to enjoy happy hour with new friends. Here we are not the exception. There is no rat race or competition in life. These people understand the lifestyle and are enjoying it as their retirement dream, but we get to do it now. Spending a few hours in the afternoon sitting by the pool looking out at the bay is so peaceful and relaxing. I think we will stay here a little longer. Sonny: Well this isn’t too bad. I am not cold anymore. I like having the bow into the dock. I get to spend several
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hours a day running around the deck. I can see everyone all the way to the end of the dock and make sure they know that I see them. A few of them bribe me to not bark by giving me treats. I wonder if I make more noise if more people will give me treats. I learned that jumping on the anchor locker lid does make more noise, but no more treats yet. I will have to keep trying. Return Trip North: HIM: Based on weather, I decided it would be best to leave a couple days earlier to take advantage of a southeast wind to carry us back up the Florida Gulf Coast. I convince Kate to try making the trip back nonstop. On departure day it is blowing 15 to 20, and gusting 25+. The waves are 2-to-3 feet at 3 seconds, with the occasional bigger wave across Florida Bay. I cut across the waves at broad reach to point us toward Marco Island. Our autopilot is fixed, but not happy with the following seas at this angle on a short period. I hand steer for the first several hours while maintaining our speed at over 7 knots, grinning ear to ear. This is fun! Once we get in the protection of the coastline, I take a more direct northwest direction for an easy downwind run the rest of the way. We decide to motor across Tampa Bay due to lack of wind, which slowed us down for the last several hours compared to our sailing. The trip back was without event until we get the entrance of our home marina. It is low tide and we can’t get in. We just ran 39 hours straight and can’t go the last quarter-mile. We drop anchor and set an alarm to get back up in four hours. A few hours later, we tuck into our slip and fall asleep. We completed the 250 miles with an average speed of 6.4 knots. Those numbers make me real happy. HER: The ride back really sucks! I am seasick and cold again. I just want to get this trip done and over with. I feel bad for Sonny too. He is being stubborn and won’t go to the bathroom; he must be not enjoying this as well. Why did I agree to making this trip straight through? Advice for anyone, don’t be like and forget to take Dramamine. Also, keep up your caffeine intake. Well, now that we have sailed for over twenty-four hours, I am starting to feel proud of myself. I w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
have overcome the seasickness, taken night watches, and feel great. I would have never thought no way in hell I would have done this. Sonny: Oh no, we are out here again? Where are we going this time? I can’t keep holding it for days on end. At least I found a place to go up here on the front of the boat, hope they don’t mind. I will just continue my dog duties and bark at every boat I see, especially these motorboats. They are going too fast. That should keep us safe. Post Trip: HIM: Now I have to do house projects and don’t want to. I prefer the boat projects that need done. Nine weeks living aboard. We have lots of stories to tell while earning our tan in the middle of winter during one of the harshest winters for parts of the country. I had no issues working while on the boat and think I can do this a lot more. Now I just have to convince her to go on an adventure up the East Coast after our next trip to the Florida Keys next year. HER: Being home is nice. I have my big kitchen, am able to walk around in open spaces, have no limits on water use, use my car, visit my hair and nail professionals. But all is not right. This first week home, I am missing the laid-back attitude and atmosphere. Nathan says I have tropical depression. Oh my, I have changed. I can’t wait to do it again. I am not afraid anymore. I want to plan our next adventure. Nathan is already pushing to go further and rent the house. I don’t know if I am ready though for extended cruising. As I reflect though, is it bad that my favorite moments were when I was alone? That’s when I pushed my limits. Wow, Nathan has pushed me, and I feel like a better person. Sonny: Oh, my favorite toys! I get to play all day with them and run all over the house. It is so nice being able to run back and forth all day. There are so many more things I can grab so I can make Dad play chase with me. Final Verdict: HIM: Guilty. I have successfully converted my wife. HER: This is not for everyone, but I am glad we did it and I am looking forward to doing it again next year.
Latitudes & Attitudes 101
Just One Last Thing Before We Start Our Cruise! By Kris and Quintin Waters
H
ere is how it all started...Three years ago, my husband, Quintin, and I bought a lightly used 2004 Lagoon 380 in beautiful condition. While living aboard s/v Wandering Souls, we have worked long and hard to get her to what we felt was “cruising” ready. The goal was to be off the dock in the fall of 2020, when Quintin retired, and be in the British Virgin Islands by Christmas. This whole Covid-19 nonsense sure messed that up. But, we soldiered on with our plans, and we are going somewhere! While neither of us is hugely mechanical, together we have figured out what works for us: Google, YouTube, and help from family and
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friends. We KISS while working on the boat (keep it simple, stupid). We have streamlined, improved, and upgraded many systems, including new electronics, new sails and running rigging, upgraded hard top, rebuilt head hoses, adding solar panels, a battery charger/inverter and a major electrical upgrade, all of which lead to one of our final major installations, the watermaker — our last step before getting off the dock for good. Decisions, decisions. Which one should we go with? We knew we wanted the most water production for the least amount of power consumption at a reasonable cost for quality materials — and who doesn’t? Luckily for us, refitting a boat in South Florida does have its benefits, as we have distributors of all the major brands right here in town, and access to not one but two major boat shows every year. We had done the lookie-loo for years trying to decide, but then we got serious and started to compare apples to apples. One company seemed reasonably priced but had very high energy consumption, one brand didn’t even make anything small enough for our needs. We finally reached out to our friend, the guru of all that is boating, and asked Bob Bitchin what he would recommend. Bob knows a guy, and his guy gave us the name of a local guy... we finally met with JT Halden of Halden Marine Services. His company is based on a few quality products and amazing customer service, and does he deliver!
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Halden Marine Services is the local distributor for Spectra water makers and we had heard nothing but good things. JT spent hours on the boat reviewing the different models and their complexity and power consumption, and helping us design and plan for the installation of a Spectra watermaker, answering each and every one of our endless and probably dumb questions. We had originally thought we were interested in the Catalina model, but after speaking with JT, we decided on the Cape Horn model. The Cape Horn has two feed pumps, so it can be run for maximum output OR minimum power consumption, and is manually operated, keeping with our KISS motto! It produces 15 gallons an hour using 19 amps, easily handled by our 1125 amp solar panels. This was very exciting stuff on paper... yet we didn’t really understand how it would work in reality, yet.
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We sent JT the go-ahead email and provided our credit card numbers and scheduled the installation to be done by one of JT’s qualified technicians, Neil Anderson. Yay! The installation was planned to take about three days and if we let one of them walk us through the commissioning process, we would get an additional year on the warranty. But first, we had to haul out to have a dedicated thru hull installed, bottom paint applied, and finish the solar panel installation while we were at it. That process went as well as can be expected with its own set of snafus but that’s a story for another time... Installation day arrived and so did Neil, all 6 foot 5 inches of him...this big dude was going to climb in those small spaces and put the watermaker where??? And yet he did, with the assistance of our boat cat, Mohea, and us. Over the course of the three days, Neil ran wiring and hoses, installed circuit breakers, feed lines, brine discharge thru hull, two feed pumps, the diaphragm pump, product sampling, and tank fill hoses; he bent and folded himself into tiny spaces... all while we lived in the same tiny space and peppered him with stupid questions. It looked like a major explosion of stuff, and he was drilling holes, which I hate doing on a boat! On the fourth day, a couple of connections were revised as they were leaking and we finally got a watermaker installed and commissioned... woo hoo! Notes were taken, and hopefully we remember how to do it ourselves when we were “out there.” On December 16, 2020, we left our home dock to go cruising. We are officially nomads with a watermaker. A couple of days later, in the Florida Keys, our solar panels were cranking away, the batteries were charged, and we made fresh water for the first time by ourselves... and yes, we had to get out our directions and make sure we followed the notes. Our notes were not as complete as hoped, and resulted in a phone call to JT and Neil. Neil called back promptly on a Saturday. Remember what I said about great customer support and service? Amazing! We got it all sorted out and never, ever has a sip of water tasted as sweet!
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Boat Names Are Funny Things By John Simpson
Many years ago, I bought a 22-foot British GRP production yacht second hand that was called Miss Content. Being a highly superstitious sailor, I never renamed her, and even came to like her name. Especially as she took me safely across the Atlantic three times (on one and a half circuits!). We left twice at the back end of October, which was always a bit late for a small engineless yacht to cross Biscay. Sometime while there, as we were fighting south through several bad low pressures with strong foul winds, I renamed her Miss Incontinence because she was very wet in a heavy gale. My father’s last boat was called Brat. She was a lovely classic yawl designed by the old Charles Nicolson in 1913. Perhaps that was why she was so named. Recently, I’ve been lucky W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M
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enough to find her again, in the midst of being rebuilt in South Africa which was marvelous. I sold Miss C in the Caribbean because my wife and I had bought a second wee sailboat, a Dutchbuilt clinker (or lapstrake!) 27-foot wooden sloop called Blauwe Slenk. Needless to say, we didn’t change her name. Nor could we afford two boats whilst I was messing about in the sun. After a two-and-a-half year re-fit (both of us were working with two young kids!), we took her back to Holland where she’d been built at Kampen on what used to be called the Zuiderzee. It was where I’d first spotted these lovely boats as a boy cruising on holiday with my parents. I had always coveted one; the bloke Mr. G.A. Kroes became a friend of my father. He’d designed and built these yachts before and after WWII; but was in his 90s
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Cruising in the early 90s. How did they do it? By Fran Lima
What was boating like without all the technology we have now? My husband and I cruised for two years, in 2011-2012. During our trip, I often thought about my friend Ruth who cruised the entire Caribbean and Central America from 1989 to 1994 with her husband, Herb, using very little technology. Ruth gave me her hand-sewn country flags as a bon voyage gift for our trip. Those flags are a precious reminder of an era when there was more time and no internet shopping. When Ruth met Herb in 1984, he had retired and wanted to go cruising. Herb was inspired by an anonymous quote, “On an ancient wall in China where a brooding Buddha blinks, deeply graven is the message – It is later than you think. … Go cruising now my brother – It is later than you think.” Herb had extensive boating experience and a captain’s license; Ruth had raised two children as a single mom and her dream was to live in a cottage on the beach. Ruth loved the water, was eager to learn how to sail, and realized that their dreams were very compatible. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Ruth and Herb married in 1986 and bought an Island Packet 38. They covered a lot of ground on that Island Packet, Happy C’s II. They took a clockwise trip around the Caribbean Sea, starting in St. Petersburg, Florida. They sailed to the Bahamas, down the Caribbean island chain, across the north coast of South America, up Central America to Mexico, and back to Florida. The trip lasted almost five years. Like any cruiser, Ruth was happy to be interviewed about her trip. My first burning question was “How did you navigate?” Ruth’s answer was two words: “Dead reckoning.” The modern cruiser may not be familiar with dead reckoning, but it is a good navigation method to know about. It involves marking the boat’s estimated position on a paper nautical chart every hour with a pencil. The position is figured using a formula based on boat speed, time, and compass course. The position marked is not exact, of course. There may have been wind or current affecting the boat speed or direction. We all know that the boat can be pointing due north but traveling off to the east or west based on sea and weather conditions. The position can be verified but only near shore using large objects and landmarks. This is called taking a bearing. Herb liked to use his favorite piece of equipment, binoculars with a built-in compass to get these bearings. When out of sight of land, you cannot take a bearing. This navigational method must have been where these two sayings came from, “Get your bearings” and also “I reckon.” That last one probably originated in the South! Ruth and Herb had been cruising for a year when the first handheld GPS became available. They ordered one from the States, which cost $2,500.00, and waited in the Turks and Caicos for it to be delivered. The GPS did one thing only, it gave you your latitude and longitude. This position could be marked on the chart, to know exactly where you were, and not just “reckon.” Being brand new technology, the GPS did not work all the time. There were not always enough satellites overhead to get a good signal. The US government also restricted the accuracy of the GPS
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for the public. Even so, the GPS was a huge help. Ruth and Herb continued to use dead reckoning navigation through the entire trip and used the GPS to verify their estimated position. How about keeping in touch with people? They both had family at home. The islands they visited had telephone service, but Ruth said international phone lines were “few and far between.” To call family and friends, some islands had businesses with an operator and phones in small cubicles. To make a call, you told the operator the phone number and sat in the cubicle to have your conversation. Calling from the boat was possible through the high seas operator. For that you needed a single sideband (SSB) radio. The high seas operator would patch you through to a phone connection. It was an expensive call charged to the person on the land line, so it was used mostly for emergencies. Friends would come to Ruth’s boat occasionally to call this way. Not everyone had an SSB radio, but Ruth and Herb did. Every morning they listened to the weather on the SSB when the forecasts were available. Remember the good old snail mail? There was no internet in the early 1990s. Ruth had a friend in Florida, Sharon who collected their mail during those five years. When Ruth and Herb were on an island and planned to be there for a while, they looked to see if there was a DHL service available. DHL, an international shipping service from Germany, was the only way to receive mail because the island post offices were unreliable. Some post offices had stacks of mail piled up, not going anywhere, and others had no employees most of the time. If conditions were right, Sharon would send a box of mail. Ruth said she always got her Christmas cards in February. The cruising magazines were Ruth and Herb’s main source of boating information during those years. Cruising World was one of them and they always looked for the latest issue and shared it with other cruisers. I wondered how folks got in touch with cruisers in an emergency. People find a way to do things no W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M
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matter what type of technology they do or do not have. Every evening on the SSB radio an emergency service made the same announcement: “The following boats need to get in contact with their family…” and they called off boat names in alphabetical order. If your boat name was called, that meant your family had contacted the service and you needed to call home. It is fun to think about technology, but I like to remember that it is mostly a tool to explore the world and communicate with others. Ruth said that this emergency system was how she learned her father was terribly ill. They were in the Bahamas at the beginning of their trip and Ruth flew home for two weeks. She had a good visit with her father and he, understanding the expense of travel, told her to not come back when he died. Ruth and Herb were in Georgetown, Bahamas, when they learned that her father had died. They found a spot to have a special dinner to remember him, the Peace and Plenty Inn. Ruth explained that it was just right because she said “My father was at peace then, and when he was alive, he had plenty.” The Peace and Plenty Inn was still there when we cruised by in 2012, still charming and lovely. As much as things change in life, luckily some things stay the same. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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Giving Back
By Capt. Robert Beringer There’s nothing like jumping aboard a boat and sailing off to exotic places; it’s a feeling like few others I’ve known in my life. But whenever I talk to my nonboating friends about sailing, they smile and presume that time spent on the water is a decadent pursuit full of nothing but long, leisurely meanderings on gentle waters that always end in sundowners and hors d’oeuvres in the cockpit, watching a lazy sunset. Of course, you know that’s not true—mostly. Sailing is the hardest day of leisure anyone can have. But still, that perception bothers me and I wanted to show everyone that it’s possible to give back to a community while you sail. There are many ways to do this, but I needed something that wouldn’t require a lot of resources and time. Enter the North Florida Cruising Club, where I hang my burgee. During a recent Zoom meeting, we were discussing ideas for a winter cruise and I had an epiphany that I blurted out: “Let’s go sailing to Exchange Island and clean it up!” I was a little unsure of myself as I said it, but the idea caught on and we set a date. In Jacksonville, much of the sailing is done
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on the St. Johns River, and Exchange is an island near downtown that is a rarely visited city park. After some careful planning, club members boarded their respective vessels on a cool and blustery January day and sailed down river to Exchange for a visit and to give the place a good sprucing up. The heavily wooded, man-made island hove into view and despite having much experience on these waters, I needed four tries to get the boat, Jerry Holt’s Pearson 35, Summer Wind, tied to the dock. (In my defense, the spring flood ran against a strong opposing wind and pushed us all over the place.) Members fanned out over the 34-acre island—originally named Rattlesnake Island, which I decided to keep to myself—and picked up consumer garbage, most of which washed ashore with tides and storms. And some of it, glass bottles and such, looked to be over 50 years old! The island has changed much since my last visit—there were stout park benches and picnic shelters on concrete platforms now. It would make a nice layover for a boat going downriver, but make note that no overnight camping is permitted.
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Even on a small island, it’s easy to get lost. “I got lost in the jungle,” said an amused NFCC member Brenda Hazell. “But I kept going till I could see the river. Guess I wouldn’t make a good Robinson Crusoe.” The bags filled quickly; I felt like Reverse Santa, groaning under my increasing load of dumpster presents. This really was giving “back.” How could there be this much trash on such a small island? After 2.5 hours we were beat, but had made great progress improving the appearance of the island. The winner of the “Most Interesting Piece of Garbage” contest went to Richard Leonard, who found a message in a liquor bottle from a distraught teenager. Back at the marina, we gathered in Summer Wind’s cockpit and medicated our sore backs with tasty adult beverages. We took in a gorgeous fiery sunset and all agreed that this cleanup cruise should become an annual NFCC event. “Isn’t this a decadent evening?” I mused. • • • • • •
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Inform the municipality in advance that you want to do a cleanup, it may require a permit and for everyone involved to sign in. Schedule a rain date should the weather be bad on cleanup day. For safety, stay in teams of two or more. You’re going to get wet, wear protective clothing, bring bug spray and sunblock Extra points if you separate the recyclable garbage into a separate bag. Be nice to your back: use a garbage picker or a boat hook.
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Latitudes & Attitudes 113 4/20/21 12:32 PM
Teachable Moments By Chris Appleton
Like so many other sailors around the world this past year, Covid-19 put a major dent in my sailing plans. For me, after years of scrimping, saving, hemming, hawing, soul-searching, and dutifully poring over every sailing magazine and YouTube video I could find, 2020 was going to be it: the year I quit my teaching job in Buffalo, NY, and became a full-time liveaboard traveler and vagabond on my (mostly) rehabbed 1968 Chris Craft Cherokee sailboat, Mother Ship. Over the last few summers, I had worked on her and sailed her up and down most of the American side of Lake Erie, and then through the Erie Canal, down the Hudson, and into Connecticut, and, in the summer of 2019, solo-ed the boat from Connecticut into Casco Bay just north of Portland, Maine, where she wintered over on jack stands. With money saved, and a new chartplotter and Hydro Vane still in their boxes and ready to install, I was just on the edge of a serious takeoff—that is, until sometime in the middle of the spring of 2020 when it became obvious that the coronavirus excrement was showing no signs of slowing its headlong flight into the proverbial fan. Technically (at least in NY State), you
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weren’t even supposed to leave the county, much less the state, without quarantining and testing and God knows what other rigamarole. And then, even though (touch wood) none of my immediate family became sick, both my kids and their mom lost their jobs and went onto my health insurance. It just seemed wrong to leave everyone and everything behind for an indefinite gallivant about the world, so I decided to stay. Maybe I could be accused of just chickening out, but so be it. It wasn’t long after I signed on the dotted line of my high school teaching contract for another year that I found myself surfing around on Craigslist looking for something small, simple, and cheap to sail here in my home waters around Buffalo on Lake Erie. After a week or two of hunting I found Tringa (later to be named ringa after the “T” mysteriously disappeared). She was a deVries Seafarer Kestrel 23 with a shoal keel (only 2’6” draft with the board up), an attached rudder, and a squat little cabin that was nothing more than a spartan boxy hole with zero amenities. She cost $600, not including the cost of the U-Haul to tow her to Buffalo, and while pretty nicked
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up and rough-looking, she was exactly what I was looking for, or at least good enough. The main sail had to be washed and duct-taped (a mouse had taken up residence in it), the cracked tiller had to be replaced with two glued-together hockey sticks, and an automatic bilge pump and battery had to be installed to deal with an annoying leak somewhere in the centerboard trunk. Under sail, she was wet and atrocious to windward, but off the wind sailed like a champ, and had a nice habit of gently zig-zagging to windward when I let go of the tiller to go forward and deal with the hank-on jib. Best of all, I found a funky little mom-and-pop mooring field wedged between an abandoned steel mill on one side and a highway on the other for just $20 per foot for the season. Figuring that shooting the mooring under sail wouldn’t be much of a problem, I ditched the non-functioning and illfitting outboard motor that came with the boat. And so, besides being able to get out and enjoy the water for a very reasonable price, I also hopped aboard that roller coaster learning curve known as engineless sailing, or sailing “au naturel,” as my friend calls it. Hey, what else was I going to do all summer?
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Most of my “teachable moments” (read: “moderate to massive screw-ups) came, predictably, in the mooring field and near docks. There was the time I learned just how vigorously I could scull that two-hockey-stick tiller when I missed the mooring and had to keep from plowing into the boat next to mine, sculling and waggling the rudder like a madman until the bow inched away from the boat ahead (funny how much closer the boats seem to be when it’s windy!). Or the time I learned just how nice it would be to have an anchor at the ready in a thunderstorm—anchoring would have been much more preferable than getting plastered against the concrete wall where I wound up for a half-hour one squally summer afternoon. (Yep, that one left a mark). Or the many times I learned how to elicit interesting responses from onlookers at various docks I was approaching: “Is something broken on that boat?” or, “Is he all right?” or, my personal favorite, “Does he have ANY idea what he’s doing?” To answer their questions in order: Yes, probably not, and, no, not really… Other lessons involved learning the art of patience and observation in light air sailing, in conditions where most normal people would just fire up the motor and point the bow where they want to go. It takes patience (OK, maybe just stupidity) when you’re the only idiot trying to drift into or out of a windless harbor while wallowing around in powerboat and jet ski wakes, or when on an otherwise beautiful day you become focused like a laser on the flukey microscopic wind shifts and tell tails, knowing full well that if you lose your pathetic half a knot of boat speed, it may take you another hour to go the next hundred feet. I had also never bothered with a spinnaker before (other than to use the bag as a convenient pillow), and found it to be an awesome light air tool. Keeping the sail “poofed,” of course, was key, and I had one magical overnight glide in almost utter silence thanks to it. Naturally, I also had some ridiculous white-knuckled moments with “the chute” too. One in particular I remember on the same trip a few days later where ringa wiped out in a building wind and rolled on her side like the old dog she is, refusing to get up until her captain scurried forward and dragged the now underwater sail back to the cockpit, dumping
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the whole soggy rainbow mess into the cabin down below. Ah yes, I think I read somewhere that you should reduce sail like they used to vote in Chicago: early and often. This is especially true, I think, with the spinnaker. And it still makes a darn good pillow—provided, of course, that you dry it out first. Now, with summer long over and ringa in her trailer, I’m looking ahead to the summer of 2021 like almost everyone else in the world. Fingers crossed, I’ll be living aboard the relatively palatial 32-foot Mother Ship, and I’ll probably have to sell the little old ringa before long. Even now, I’m working to repair and erase some of the hard-earned scars I put on her during all those “teachable moments” of this past summer. Was the summer what I had planned and hoped for? Of course not, but it sure wasn’t a total loss. The truth is I learned a lot and had a lot of fun doing it—and who could ask for anything more? Now, with any luck I can find some restless soul with a few pennies to rub together who’s willing to sail “au naturel” and let ringa teach them a few more lessons. Here’s to 2021’s teachable moments!
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Latitudes & Attitudes 117 4/20/21 12:32 PM
Cruising During Covid By Diane Fowler
Looking to escape cabin fever, we decided to cruise on our 32-foot Catalina, Windy City. I have cruised the Gulf Coast of Florida for 22 years. When we have a schedule, it seems we spend most of the time motoring against the wind. This trip we really wanted to sail, so we would base our decision to go north or south depending on the long-range wind forecast. Saturday, November 14, the forecast dictated a northern cruise. We unwrapped the boat from her recent Hurricane Eta lines, loaded up, and headed southwest on the Caloosahatchee River. The winds were 1 to 3 knots behind us. It was 87 degrees and we were drenched with sweat! I wondered if it was all worth it! We dropped anchor south of York Island, a small uninhabited island just west of Pine Island, off the Intracoastal Waterway. We saw 14 white pelicans flying in V formation, three dolphins frolicking nearby,
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an eagle, and ospreys—and the sunset was the usual amazing: pink, orange, and yellow glow. YES, it was worth it! It was warm overnight, so we were anxious to get underway on Sunday. Unfortunately, the winds were 2 to 3 knots again, so we motored up the ICW and debated where we should go. So much freedom! Blue, blue sky with no clouds….Life was good! We knew a cold front was coming, so we continued north up Charlotte Harbor Bay to Punta Gorda. We motored to Fisherman’s Village Marina. The temps were in the 80s again; but we only saw one bare-poled sailboat and five power boats the whole day! Where was everyone? Boats are the best place to be to keep socially distanced. Although co-captain Roger looks young, he is actually 77! I have survived cancer four times. We have to be very careful about the air we breathe, and being out in the middle of a bay is the best place.
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We arrived at 3pm and tied up at the marina. They only charge $2.25, and the staff is most welcoming and the showers are clean. We couldn’t wait to jump in the wonderful heated pool. Two couples from Minnesota were vacationing, so we chatted while 20 feet apart. We met some friends at Harpoon Harry’s and enjoyed a table in the fresh air. Most folks had masks on, except while eating. After a tasty grouper dinner, we walked out to the Big AH! The Christmas lights had just come on! We decided to stay another day! We said hello to folks, but we kept our distance and it was great to hear a new story! After dinner, we enjoyed The Village Brewhouse. We sat at one side of the bar alone. A guy was singing, and it was a lovely sunset. Monday morning, we checked out the free bicycles and rode to downtown Punta Gorda. They were hit hard in 2004 by Hurricane Charlie, but have been tastefully rebuilt. We rode by swanky condos, outdoor restaurants, high rise hotels, and pickleball courts, and stopped at Laishley Marina, where an airy second floor restaurant awaits. Here we found an ice cream shop and public restrooms. The city owns mooring balls on both sides of the bridge. They cost $13 a night. Enjoy the 300-foot long FREE dinghy dock. Be sure to bring a copy of your boat insurance. We had lunch at Dean’s. Again, we chose an outdoor table on the edge of the patio. High winds were blowing out of the north the next day. When we tried to leave, we got stuck in our slip! I had Roger pushing on the bow while our neighbor yanked on the stern line. Thankfully, we motored out and sailed south and west in north winds of 17 to 20 knots to Pelican Bay, near Cayo Costa Island. We have been
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here dozens of times, and always enjoy dinghying in, taking the beach shuttle, and walking. But, that day, there was yellow tape across the docks after Hurricane Eta! Normally, this popular anchorage hosts 60 to 70 boats, but today, it was just six. The park ranger said we could dinghy in, but all services were closed. So, we tucked our bow up against the mangroves and evaluated. It would be a very wet ride, so we popped in a DVD and settled in. Our inverter runs the TV and DVD. We use a mobile hotspot for internet. Next? We continued North to Palm Harbour Marina in Placida. Music and dancing en route; love this social distancing; right? On the way, dolphins escorted us, pelicans soared, and we saw seven roseate spoonbills and three storks. We got halfprice tickets for the water shuttle, so just $5! One other couple aboard. Someone new to talk to. The golf cart rental was closed, so we walked to the wide beach, where we saw just three people. Dinner at Johnny Leverock’s was great. All staff wore masks and sanitized tables. We felt safe. The next morning, we made the Boca Grande Causeway 9:00am opening. Motor turned off, and sails unfurled, we sailed south for 5.5 hours! There were gusts of 20 to 22 knots. South near Sanibel Island, the ICW turns east, so we continued sailing to Merwyn Key, across from Picnic Island. Again there were giant white pelicans, dolphins jumping wakes, stingrays, and a perfect sunset. After the anchor was down, we enjoyed sundowners and felt safe and happy. Friday? Winds were north 12 to 15 knots, so we reached east, under the Sanibel Bridge into the Gulf of Mexico by Fort Myers Beach. We saw two sailboats traveling west bare poled. I recognized them as boats from SW Florida Yacht Charters, in our home city of Cape Coral, FL. I yelled over to them, “It doesn’t get any better than this!” After a great day sailing in the gulf we had to, reluctantly, return home. Overall, I highly recommend that you get on your boat and enjoy nature and the fresh, fresh air. Stay healthy, y’all.
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By Alexandra Doerschel
The urge to leave the country is strong. Last year, our dream of finally becoming nomads was so close, we could practically feel the wind hitting our face and the sea’s salty taste on our tongues as we set sail for mysterious places. After years of planning and taking short versions of our great escape from societal norms, we packed our floating home with provisions to last us a crossing of the Pacific Ocean, plus two-fold. But then Covid19 happened. One day before we were to set sail, a slew of countries issued travel bans, immediately killing our plans and leaving us physically cut off from the world. We watched the news, read articles, and immersed ourselves in sailing groups on social media for information on island lockdowns. We funneled our energy into researching other routes. We came up with one, but it was truly a reach. We would forget island hopping through the Bahamas and the Caribbean and set sail on a nonstop expedition to Mexico. After all, we had prepared our Fountaine Pajot Lipari 41 catamaran, Hatchi, to cross the Pacific, so why not the Gulf of Mexico? It’s very possible that we could have made the trip, but our worrying minds produced a lot of doubts and questions. Could we travel that long without w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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䈀漀挀愀猀 䐀攀氀 吀漀爀漀Ⰰ 倀愀渀愀洀愀
䘀甀氀氀 匀攀爀瘀椀挀攀 䴀愀爀椀渀愀 泰 䌀愀氀礀瀀猀漀 䌀愀渀琀椀渀愀 眀眀眀⸀戀漀挀愀猀洀愀爀椀渀愀⸀挀漀洀 戀漀挀愀猀礀愀挀栀琀挀氀甀戀䀀礀愀栀漀漀⸀挀漀洀 䠀愀甀氀 伀甀琀 夀愀爀搀 泰 㘀 ⴀ吀漀渀 吀爀愀瘀攀氀椀昀琀 眀眀眀⸀戀漀挀愀猀戀漀愀琀礀愀爀搀⸀挀漀洀 戀漀挀愀猀礀愀挀栀琀猀攀爀瘀椀挀攀猀䀀礀愀栀漀漀⸀挀漀洀
㤀뀀㈀ ᤠ⸀ 㔀ᴠ一Ⰰ 㠀㈀뀀㐀ᤠ⸀㐀㔀ᴠ圀 Latitudes & Attitudes 121 4/20/21 12:33 PM
stopping? Did we need to have a Covid test in hand—and how long would the test be good for? Or, were we able to get a pet permit and the right vaccines in time for our four-legged family member? We began to question why we’re forcing ourselves to make this trip possible when we would most likely get stuck at the new location, unable to move to the next? We all know that Covid-19 is a pandemic affecting the world, not just an epidemic. The whole thing just didn’t sound exciting anymore. It became stressful, a chore, and a constant back and forth on where it would be safest to take our family of four. We felt defeated and trapped in the marina that we’ve lived in for over three years. The marina has been a good home for us. We’ve met so many sailing families and made some great friends, but we needed to get out. Our life there felt stagnant—a routine that we were eager to abandon. The amazing thing about us wanderers is that we are accustomed to change because it means new adventure is waiting just around the corner. Our family decided that if we can’t travel the world, let’s travel our country while helping fight Covid-19. The surge of infection and death rate due to Covid19 brought on an insatiable demand for nurses, leaving me with the benefit of helping areas severely short-staffed while travelling as a family. In April 2020 we packed up our belongings and set off on my first travel assignment. We were not traveling by sea, but we were still forming unforgettable experiences. The food from the local places may not be as exotic, but it’s still delicious. Our kids didn’t get to swim in warm tropical waters, but they got to experience their first snowfall in Nevada. The satisfaction a parent feels when they see the joy in their kid’s face as they slide down a snow-covered hill didn’t feel any different than it would anywhere else. I even had the honor of holding the hand of dying patients, so they were comforted in their last hours on this beautiful planet. We did, and continue to do, so many memorable
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⠀㐀 ⤀ ㈀㘀㌀ⴀ㐀㠀㠀 泰 㘀 䰀攀最椀漀渀 䄀瘀攀⸀ 䄀渀渀愀瀀漀氀椀猀Ⰰ 䴀䐀 ㈀㐀
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Latitudes & Attitudes 123 4/20/21 12:33 PM
LIFE ABOARD
Editor Robin Stout Aboard Mermaid
Life Aboard for a 20-Year-Old
Many people are afraid of stepping outside of the mainstream and living their dream. Here’s the story of Alison, a young woman who decided to leave college to pursue her passion for the sea. Growing up living aboard was incredible — looking back on it now — but at the time it seemed quite terrible. Imagine living within 30 feet of not only your parents but also your annoying little brother. It seems like a dream come true, until you are trapped in a tiny space for so long with the same three people. That being said, living on a boat and getting to experience living in the world in such a way has a major impact on how you view the world. The world seems much bigger yet much simpler when you are traveling at 5 knots. I grew up in a military family. My dad was in the Coast Guard, so we would move every few years, traveling to the new location on our Hunter 43. We would live in the new city on the boat for a year or two while we found a house, move into the house for another year or two, and then promptly move back on the boat for another move. In 2013, my dad retired from the USCG and we moved to the Bahamas for a winter. The constant moving and change of culture every few years, I would say, fueled my passion to travel, and living on a boat definitely made me want to travel by sea. I reluctantly decided to go to college at the University of South Florida, even though I didn’t have a true career goal. I struggled a lot through classes as my motivation usually comes from working toward a goal. But everything must happen for a reason because within my first month of school I had met Rudi, a wide-eyed adventurer much as myself. He is a Melges 24 sailor who decided that he too needed a change in scenery and decided to move from Lake Tahoe, California, to Tampa, Florida, for school. We had been dating for a year and a half when coronavirus hit. I’d had this idea in my head for so long that I just randomly asked him one day if he would want to take some
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time off from school and sail to the Bahamas with me. He said yes way too quickly and we started devising a plan. My parents were a little shocked when I told them what my plans were; I guess because I am only 20 years old and most 20 year olds don’t buy small sailboats with a plan to live aboard and sail the world. My dad’s friend from New Jersey was selling his Catalina 30 tall rig, so I called him up, told him what my plans were, and asked if he would be willing to sell her to us. He said yes! I got to the boat, which was on the hard in Salem, New Jersey, in early September and sailed her to Deale, Maryland. Rudi met me there. After a failed raw water pump, a few impeller failures, buying a little kitten, making some new lifelong friends, and just the right amount of procrastination, we headed south out of the Chesapeake and down the Intracoastal Waterway. I named the boat Kipona, which means “to be upon sparkling water” in a Native American language. I was going to name her Kipona Aloha, which means “the deepest or truest form of love,” but I thought it was too long, so I looked up what just Kipona meant, and what do you know! “To be upon sparking water” it was. Kipona has been a perfect starter boat for us. She is easy to handle in all conditions and has just the right amount of space for a young couple. I sailed Optis when I lived in New Orleans and then lasers and 420s in Jacksonville, Florida, during high school and into college at USF. I did pretty well in dinghy sailing, but big boats are a totally different breed. Learning to let go a little bit with the specifics of sailing, such as sail trim and what the word “overpowered” means, has been a bit of a harsh learning curve for both Rudi and me. “Overpowered” used to mean tighten the vang and cunningham and hike your butt off. Now it means don’t go sailing or everything you own is going to fly across the boat, including your cat. We’ve been trying hard to make our boat a home. Moving from a house with a shower and hot water, you do W W W . L AT S A T T S . C O M
4/20/21 11:29 AM
miss the amenities. Being younger and moving on to a smaller boat has had its advantages. We have a lot of “stuff,” but we just have not had the time to collect things like furniture and other earthly possessions yet. I think that being able to cook food you caught or had to walk a few miles to buy is very rewarding. Honestly, everything I do on this boat is rewarding because it is my home. It’s my tiny moving home that I was able to buy myself at 20 years old. I understood the relationship challenges that living aboard brings from my childhood experiences. Living with another person in a small space will either bring you much, much closer or push you very far away from each other. While most of the time we have a lot of fun doing what we are doing, sometimes we both feel like we’re being suffocated. We definitely go through waves of being totally fulfilled with the life we are living and being overwhelmed by the intensity and closeness. The best thing about what we are doing, I think, is the exponential learning curve. Every day I learn something about my boat, my crazy cat, my crazy boyfriend, and my crazy self. I learn something new every single day. I am constantly learning things about the boat, the world, and myself. It’s hard to describe the feeling of doing something so rewarding that you often have to slow down your pace to let your brain recover. I have learned so much about inboard diesels, mostly because things continuously break and need to be fixed. I’ve learned about boat design, fishing, offshore preparedness, and doing absolutely everything while constantly moving. That was probably the weirdest thing when I moved into the boat. You are constantly moving and swaying. It’s gotten to the point now where I trip over myself when I walk on land. I think I might have better balance on the water than on land. Having a kitten on board has been a part of the learning experience. We bought Ila the cat in Deale, Maryland, when she was 8 weeks old. She has gotten used to the boat because she really doesn’t know anything different. One W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M
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thing that is very difficult about having a kitten on a boat is trying to prevent her from getting into, well, everything. For example, yesterday we sailed from West Palm Beach to Fort Lauderdale, fishing the whole time, and thought that we had put the hooks away afterwards. Well, it turns out that we did not and Ila got a hook stuck in her paw. This type of thing is going to happen with a child like a kitty on a boat. I also feel my brain getting stronger all the time. I learned in school that pushing your brain through tough problems over and over again actually grows and strengthens your brain, and I can really feel that. Since I’m constantly solving problems, I feel that I’ve become quicker on my feet and even better at speaking without stuttering my words out. Having just turned 21, I get some weird looks when I tell people what I am doing instead of going to college. When I tell them that I am trying to find a passion, they don’t really understand. I try to explain to my friends and family that having a passion and having a career are usually two very different things. A select lucky few are privileged to find passion in their career. What I am trying to do for myself right now is find a passion I can turn into a career. Being unhappy for the rest of my life doesn’t sound worth the income or peace of mind it might bring me. Being a woman running a boat is kind of like a fly on the wall. Men will come up to me and Rudi and ask him questions rather than me, like I am not even standing there. Even when I am alone, one of the questions I get all the time is, “Do you have a guy on that big boat with you?” Yes, I do have a guy on the boat with me, but that doesn’t make me his second hand. If anything, the negative comments make me want to keep doing this and even do more single-handed sailing. Any woman who is even considering this lifestyle, I say do it. Take the jump. I am constantly hearing women saying how much they want to but can’t because of reasons they can’t even explain well enough to themselves. I am here to tell you that if a broke 20 year old can do it, you can sure as hell do it too. Make the jump and reap the rewards.
Latitudes & Attitudes 125 4/20/21 11:29 AM
Bubba Whartz and BUBBA’s Neighbor
By Morgan Stinemetz When I entered the Blue Moon Bar, Bubba Whartz, liveaboard and live-alone sailor, had most likely been speaking of his sailing experiences. I could vaguely see a cluster of bodies close to where his voice originated. Like most of us who call Florida home, I was suffering from temporary blindness caused by leaving the bright sunshine outside and transitioning to a dark interior. For about 30 seconds I was trapped in an ocular purgatory, until my eyesight transitioned to “inside” mode. First, the neon lights advertising various beers came into focus, and then some seconds later I spied Doobie, the Blue Moon bartender, on station behind the bar itself. In her traditional leather trousers that fit beautifully, she made grown men drool, and not just the older ones. They drool easily anyway. It was nice to see Doobie. Well, it’s always nice to see Doobie. Bubba came into view next. Attired in overalls, a tattered white T-shirt from a sailboat race, Teva sandals, and a red baseball cap with a Peterbilt emblem on it, Captain Whartz, owner of the ferro-cement sloop Right Guard had a knot of about six men around him. They seemed to be spellbound by what he was saying. I joined the entanglement. One of the listeners interrupted Bubba’s discourse, saying, “Tell us again about how the couple who showed up at the marina where you have been staying. I liked the part about the 20-year-old woman being nude from the waist up. And tan.” “Okay, one more time,” Bubba agreed. “I didn’t say she was 20 years old, incidentally. I said she looked 20 years old. Anyway, the boat she was on occupied the slip next to Right Guard. This lady was sun bathing on the boat’s foredeck when I started to step aboard Right Guard. She was on her belly, so I didn’t pay much attention to her. But when she sat up, and didn’t have a top on, I stopped. She said, ‘Hello, Captain.’ While being courteous and replying, I didn’t look where I was going and I lost my footing. I fell into the water between Right Guard and her sailboat. Even old salts like me sometimes make mistakes. When I surfaced, she was leaning over the side of their boat looking down at me. Gravity made my perspective unique. That’s when I tried to speak and swallowed a lot of seawater. A few seconds later she dropped me a life ring and I was able to paddle to a ladder and get out of the water.” “How big was the woman?” asked a man in the knot. “About a C,” replied Captain Whartz, squinting. “A tan C.” “What happened next?” I interjected.
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Bubba acknowledged my presence by expelling a squirt of Red Man into the Mountain Dew bottle he was holding and winking at me. “When I got dry clothes on, I was invited aboard their boat for a drink. It’s an old sailing tradition for someone who has rescued another mariner from certain death to salute that mariner with a drink, you know,” Bubba explained. I’d never heard of the tradition, frankly. But by questioning it, I would have – at my peril – cut in on Bubba’s narrative involving semi-nude women and cheating certain death in a marina. I remained mute. “First, I met her boyfriend, Vincent. He’d been in the head when I fell into the water, so he wasn’t able to come on deck and help. Vincent made us drinks. The girl, her name was Polly, never put a top on. Sometimes luck shows up in the strangest ways. And he served the drinks in Waterford crystal glasses. I’d never seen Waterford crystal on a sailboat. Skippy Peanut Butter jars, maybe. Plastic, certainly. Just no Waterford. I commented on that. Vincent said they hadn’t broken one yet. When I asked him how far they had sailed, he said they had just gotten their boat – it was a Hinkley – recently. “The talk drifted to how they were equipping their new boat. I could see the nav station was full of electronics, GPS, radar, autopilots, WSI, depth sounder, and all kinds of gauges and screens I had never seen before. It looked like a airliner cockpit, with backups for the backups. Vincent said he thought they could sail around the world and never have to touch the helm. Then he added he’d have to take over to dock the boat. Of course. “Polly was taking courses on, she said, celestial navigation. They had a new Weems and Plath sextant, the best available, in the box with the cellophane wrapping still on it. Polly showed me her HO 249. She talked about learning how to prepare a Universal Plotting Sheet, determining latitude and longitude by sightings using sight reductions of celestial bodies, and how she would calculate the deviation of the ship’s compass by the use of a celestial body. That would be after she graduated from navigation school. “Vincent chimed in on the ground tackle they had on board. They had a CQR and a Danforth, he told me. Then he said they’d use an anchor chain to be safe. He said he carried four shots. That was the first time I’d ever heard a civilian sailor use that term. A shot is six fathoms. He’d marked the end of the first shot with red paint, the end of the second shot with white paint, and the end of the third shot with blue paint. The last 50 feet of chain, the bitter end, was all painted red. He said all the chain made their boat bow-heavy, but he’d balance that out by adding weight in the stern.” One of the listeners said that it sounded as if Vincent and Polly would be world cruisers. Bubba agreed. He said the boat had a generator to accommodate the air conditioning system and the trash compactor. Bubba mentioned an inflatable dinghy stored in the lazarette. The boat had a custom-fashioned crane alongside the cockpit to lift the dinghy and the motor used to propel it out of its assigned storage place. “Polly showed me the custom owners’ flag they’d had made at a pennant maker in St. Petersburg, Florida. The design looked like a backgammon board. She said they’d fly w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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it from the starboard spreader if they weren’t displaying any of the nautical flags they had bought. She said they had the entire nautical sequence, alphabetical flags and repeaters. They’d take courses on which flags worked best and how to use them. She said they also carried day shapes. Bubba told the group that Vincent and Polly had invested a large amount of money in the best foul weather gear available and also had an entire wardrobe of fashionable nautical clothes for sailing. Captain Whartz allowed that while clothes are all good, Polly in her half birthday suit worked just fine for him. The communications array on their boat, Bubba acknowledged, was huge. It consisted a single sideband, a sat phone, several cell phones, a VHF with AIS, and two hand-held radios for close-in work in marinas. Out of the cluster of men, one asked, “What is the name of their boat, Captain Whartz?” “I believe they are going to call it Fantasea, with ‘y’ replaced by ‘ea.’” “Bubba, that play on words has been used a million times,” I scoffed. “It’s as old as Bettie Page pinup pictures.” “It’s their boat,” Bubba countered. “They have put their money – and a lot if it – toward their dream. The boat carries every extra known to the maritime world. That’s just who they are. Who am I to question their taste?” Bubba had me there. He’d named his own boat, Right Guard, either after a political philosophy or a deodorant. I never have been sure which. “Tell me about the sail inventory,” I requested. No one had asked about sails, and my curiosity was piqued. “They can’t afford sails,” is the way Whartz explained it. “They’ve spent all their money on the things they already equipped their boat with. They are so broke now that it may be five more years before they can get sails, which have gotten outrageously expensive.” One of the audience members posed a pertinent question. “What’s a sailboat without sails?” he asked. Captain Whartz had this to say: “Think about it. As long as they can’t sail, they will never have to put up with crooked customs officials in a foreign country. They won’t get the trots from bad water. They can have all the firearms they want on board. Bothersome planning and provisioning the boat for an extended cruise is not a factor. Vincent and Polly won’t have to sail in storms. Their anchor won’t drag in the middle of the night. They will be able to sleep through the night every night. Unusual sounds won’t scare them. They won’t have to look for a sailmaker in a foreign country so he can repair damaged sails. There’s a laundry in the marina, so Polly won’t have to create a wash cycle on board with a five-gallon bucket and bungee cords. And they’ll never run aground if they never take the boat out of the marina. I’d say getting sails for their boat is of no consequence.” “Does Polly appearing semi-nude on their boat have anything to do with your opinion?” some pesky man asked. Captain Whartz, a thunderstorm of a frown on his face, left the Blue Moon without saying another word. He’s touchy now and then. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m
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Latitudes & Attitudes 127 4/18/21 12:17 PM
Book Review By Capt. Jim Cash
UNSINKABLE
A Young Woman’s Courageous Battle on the High Seas! By Abby Sunderland and Lynn Vincent In previous book reviews in Lats & Atts, you may have learned that my “day job” is a yacht broker along the Gulf Coast. In 2020, the Covid-19 pandemic has brought many first-time buyers out of the proverbial woodwork. As if sailing has always been something they would like to do and now is the time. Along with this newly found resolution, I have been told over and over they want a boat they can single hand, to sail solo without dependence on finding a crew and having to compromise on destinations. Hearing these dreams and seeing the wanderlust, combined with a bit of fear in their eyes, brought to mind many of the solo sailing books we have read in the past, from Joshua Slocum’s classic Around the World Alone, to Robin Lee Graham’s Dove, Bernard Motiessier’s The Long Way, and Lats and Att’s own Tania Aebi’s Maiden Voyage, to name only a few. However, the book that I believe gives the wouldbe solo sailor perhaps one of the best descriptions of what it is like to prepare for and sail a sailboat single handedly, is Abby Sunderland’s account of her dream of a solo circumnavigation, which she attempted at age fifteen. Her book, first published in 2011, is written in three distinct voices: We have Abby telling the story from her perspective, sharing her fears, joys, and emotions. Then there is a narrator’s voice bringing in the objective observer. Finally, there are the voices of those that participated in her miraculous rescue in the middle of the Indian Ocean where Abby’s dream comes to a disastrously abrupt but safe end. The book actually starts in reverse, with the prologue describing the storms in the Indian Ocean that rolled and dismasted Abby’s Open 40 sailboat in what could
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be described as one of the most remote sections of over 2,000 nautical miles from the Indian Ocean — the closest rescue operation. I first met Abby and her Father, Laurence, in the 1990s, when as a toddler, she was accompanying her Dad to look at a potential project on my boat, which I had docked in Marina del Rey, California, at the time. Chapter one appropriately gives the reader the background of the family, including their liveaboard experience on a mooring off Catalina Island’s Emerald Bay, followed by their three-year cruise aboard Amazing Grace, their 51-foot Aleutian sailing yacht with Abby (age 8), and her siblings Zac (10), Toby (4), and Jessica (3). “Those three years with my family are some of my best memories,” she writes. Abby’s dream of someday solo sailing around the world started to take fruition at age 13 while she helped her Dad deliver boats up and down the West Coast of California, including several solo experiences delivering boats on her own. One wet and cold delivery while she was following her Dad through the night, he thought this trip might cure Abby of this notion she has of sailing around the world. When the boats were tied up, he asked, “So, Abby are you still ready to sail around the world?” “Show me my boat… I’m ready to go,” she answered. “Let’s see how it goes,” Dad said, and continued to give Abby more delivery opportunities. Abby’s desire to solo sail around the world continued to grow even stronger, so Mom and Dad consented to exploring the idea. Unlike her brother Zac’s solo circumnavigation the year before, Abby wanted to do it nonstop. While Zac’s production Islander 36, used the “equator route,” Abby instead wanted a more contemporary vessel capable of handling the Southern Ocean. To do this, she was going w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
to need a deep-pocket sponsor. Her mom, Marianne, felt neared Cape Horn her autopilot started acting up again, and sure this would be the end of the quest, but after the press a marathon 10-hour satellite phone session ensued with her release went out there was a call from Shoe City. They now electrical team while Abby, stuffed into a tight compartment, had a sponsor, and the boat search was on in earnest. They cold and soaked to the skin, swapped out tiny wires. Finally, debated heavy displacement vs. open “sled” style, finally a suggestion of moving a fuse allowed one of the pilots to deciding that using a faster boat would mean less time in the come to life. “After the display let up… my first thought was Southern Ocean and opted for the Open 40. They looked at I don’t have to stop. I was really doing this,” she thought. several boats and selected a circumnavigation veteran they And, despite what the critics were saying, on March 31 she located in Rhode Island, sailed it to Florida, and shipped became the youngest person to ever solo around Cape it to the West Coast for preparation. While the boat was Horn. Though due to exhaustion from the autopilot fix, she completely gone over from keel to masthead, Abby’s training reports she slept right through it, 60 miles offshore. continued and her confidence built. Though Abby wanted to continue her record-setting During this time, the word got out to the media and pace, her team talked her into putting into Cape Town and the critics came out of the woodwork. Why would any giving her autopilot and other equipment the needed tune parents allow their adolescent daughter to attempt such a up to allow her to continue safely. She was met on the pier foolhardy expedition? There were accusations about the in Cape Town by her dad and team, but also the assistant Sunderlands risking the life of their daughter for money. “My manager from the 5-star Cape Grace Hotel holding a silver solo-round try was my decision,” Abby proclaims. “After tray. “After 100 days of dehydrated space noodles, I was Zac’s around the world trip, my parents would much rather met with the largest platter of cheeseburger and fries I’ve I stay home,” she responded. With the boat as good as ever seen.” While the boat was being tuned up and refit, it was going to get, Abby’s scheduled departure was set Abby learned that Jessica Watson had finished and set for January 2010, from Marina del Rey. A flotilla of boats the record as the youngest female solo circumnavigator. escorted Abby out through the breakwater into the Pacific, This was a good reason for Abby to say, “Well, I gave it and Wild Eyes was underway. “Staying busy helped me get a try but enough is enough.” However, no, after the refit used to life alone on the water,” Abby writes. Also regarding Abby insisted she wanted to continue, even if there were single handed sailing, she says, “I slept as much during the no further records to set, so on May 21, she and Wild Eyes day as at night because keeping up with the boat required made it back out to sea. Making 12 to 15 knots and liking being up at all hours.” The first leg down the Baja coast the new autopilot, she rounded Cape Agulhas, the southern demonstrated that she was going to need more electrical tip of Africa, and headed into the notorious Indian Ocean. power to keep up with the demand of her equipment, and Sailing [single handed] was becoming more like work. she made the decision to pull into Cabo San Lucas at the Then the main halyard got tangled off Cape Agulhas and southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Her rationale was that would not come down to reef. The situation was becoming she could now start and end her solo circumnavigation from desperate. The winds were building, and the only solution there. She alerted her team of her needs and a private pilot, was to go up the mast. This is not something one wants Bill Bennett, volunteered to fly new bigger batteries to Cabo. to do anytime at sea, but especially as the waves were Though upset about having to start over, she was still in building and the wind gusts increasing. She called home position to set a world record of being the youngest to sail to let her family know what she was going to have to do… solo non-stop around the world. She was in competition just in case this was her last time she could talk with her with Jessica Watson, a 16-year-old Australian also making mom. Then, miraculously, the line untangled itself and the solo attempt that started three months earlier. The thing she was able to reef. Maybe God did send an angel to about solo sailing is keeping a positive attitude and both untangle the line, she thought. “Nightmare at sea, June Abby and Jessica write about this in their blogs. Isolation 2010 – 40.5 South, 74.4 East - I’m rolling, I thought blurrily, can lead to depression — “Stinkin’ thinking,” as Laurence and everything went black.” Abby was upside down in the describes it. With a new power source, and wind instrument middle of the Indian Ocean. The next wave brought the recalculated, Abby was anxious to get started again. Though boat back vertical, but it was over. The boat was a mess, there was another batch of criticism from the media, Abby’s both inside and out. “Flipping that switch [EPIRB] was the parents were supportive. “Thankfully, my parents trusted me hardest thing I ever had to do.” When she pushed that enough to let me follow my passion.” This was it, last stop in button, she thought she was proving all the critics right. the northern hemisphere, she was on her way. When the signal hit the SES (State Emergency Service) Sailing south, she crossed the equator and earned in Australia, the spotter plane took off, bound for one of her “Shellback” designation. She was hoping for a good the most remote places on Earth. How long can I last? A storm to put her into the big leagues. Soon she got her wish rescue at sea could take weeks, or if the beacon did not and was surfing 25-foot waves and reaching boat speeds activate maybe never. “At that moment, a noise from above of 20 knots. Abby hugged the coast of South America but caught my attention. I looked up to see a gigantic white was careful to stay far enough offshore not to get caught airplane fly by.” Abby knew, though her quest to sail around up in the opposing current. She crossed the 40 degrees line the world solo was over, she was alive to tell about it. known as the Roaring Forties then into the Furious Fifties, Abby now lives with her husband and four children though she reported “hummm---not all that furious.” As she in Mobile, Alabama. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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There’s This Place:
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The Channel Islands By Marissa Neely
The Channel Islands are a chain of eight islands off the coast of Southern California, USA. The largest of these coastal gems is Santa Cruz that is home to 8 endemic species of flora and fauna, including the most-notable Island Fox. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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There’s This Place: Sailors and boaters alike flock to this uninhabited island to absorb the rich history as well as separate themselves from the hustle and bustle of city life; considering that Los Angeles is only about 15 nautical miles southeast, this island is the perfect getaway, offering prime diving, hiking, and scenery. Amongst the various anchorages there are a handful of collective favorites, one of which being Fry’s Harbor which is popular in the summertime and almost always full. The heart of the anchorage is tucked under the lee of the highest peak of the island, Diablo Point, and is sheltered by the surrounding mountains. This anchorage provides a solid holding and is spacious when you are alone, but you will likely have to use two hooks when it begins to fill up; some smaller vessels stern anchor well up onto the beach itself. Although it is noted that up to 20 boats can fit here on a well-weathered summer day, our boat, Avocet, is a Cheoy Lee 41, and we would personally begin to feel cramped if two other boats of a similar size (41 feet/12.5 meters) decided to join us. A landing permit through the Nature Conservancy is required to go ashore, but it is well worth it so you can explore the remains of a 1929 quarry that collected the rock to build Santa Barbara Harbor’s breakwater. Although the earth has begun to absorb many of the artifacts, you can still clearly see how the rail track operated and follow it from the rubble into the trees alongside a small freshwater stream before the
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track disappears into the ground. Like much of the island, this is a hotspot for marine life, so please be mindful of the islands only “full-time” residents and give them a wide berth as you observe them — check out the tide pools located in the rubble of the quarry, but watch your step for rusted industrial remains! You can often catch the crew of s/v Avocet at Santa Cruz Island during any season and in any given weather enjoying all the island has to offer. For more information, visit our website www.svavocet.com.
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Quarantined in Paradise By Bill & JoAnne Harris
The Bay Islands
Forty miles off the northern coast of mainland Honduras lie the Bay Islands. These eight islands and 53 small cays are a part of the Mesomamerican Barrier Reef, which is the second largest in the world after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. The islands are famous for their natural beauty, brilliant beaches, stunning wildlife, great tourist scene, and some of the very best scuba diving in the world. The Year 2020
The year 2020 will be one to remember for many, and we are no exception. We began 2020 in Belize with fellow cruisers John and Jenn of s/v Lady J, by celebrating the New Year and their wedding anniversary in Placencia. After exploring Belize, we jumped off from Glover’s Reef, Belize, for an overnight to the island of Roatán in the Bay Islands. Our arrival would mark our fourth time visiting the Bay Islands. Upon arrival, we anchored out in beautiful French Harbour since we always enjoy the fabulous view and spectacular breeze that being on the hook provides. We snorkeled and scuba dived daily as well as reunited W W W .L AT S A T T S . C O M
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U LT R A with several fellow Ocean Cruising Club friends in the anchorage. We had been so looking forward to meeting up with local and cruiser friends alike. All was going great. We began seeing old friends, and making new ones. JoAnne held daily yoga instruction for cruisers. We had a blast hosting lots of parties aboard ULTRA, and exploring the island by land and sea. Just before the lockdown, we even were startstruck whilst sipping Cuba Libres during an island adventure with great friends, Jerry and Kris, and had the pleasure of meeting actor Michael Douglas. A few days after that, we were invited to a wonderful party at the home of our friends, the Klucks. One day later the lockdown began. At the time the Bay Islands went under lockdown and into quarantine mode, there were no reported cases of Covid in the islands. On March 17, our friend and the incredibly helpful Governor Dino Silvestri began giving live streaming video updates for the Bay Islands to keep everyone informed. Soon, islander travel was restricted on and between the Bay Islands. We were asked to place grocery order deliveries instead of going shopping on our own. March 25 was Bill’s birthday, so JoAnne organized a socially distanced kayak Fun Day with cruisers from sailing vessels Chat-Eau, Coragem, Lady J, and Panache. One bright sunny day, we loaded up coolers and headed for a kayaking adventure. We celebrated with cupcakes and champagne. It was our first of many events that we would celebrate under the pandemic lockdown. A few days later on March 29, we celebrated our twelfth anniversary of full-time liveaboard cruising life by going scuba diving and hosting a great happy hour and dinner aboard with cruiser friends. With still no cases on Roatán, we continued to plan a number of fun events for cruisers and resort staff, such as yoga instruction, biweekly ULTRA movie nights under the stars whilst serving free popcorn, themed parties, potlucks, snorkeling adventures, local dance performances with Osmar, and more to fulfill our passion to entertain others and bring them joy. We felt truly blessed to be living in a Covid-Free Bubble, since no one was allowed in or out of Fantasy Island. We also had many enjoyable moments aboard ULTRA with our friends from sailing vessels Lady J, Canapesia, Suzie Too, Soham, Chat-Eau, and Lianda. On June 23, our 20th wedding anniversary arrived. We sincerely appreciate Don Justo and Ivan, our friends
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and Fantasy Island Resort owners, for attending and granting us permission to conduct our wedding vow renewal ceremony on their new and not-yet-sealed, over-the-water wooden platform. As a 20th wedding anniversary surprise for Bill, JoAnne created a unique yet meaningful Castaway Playlist and submitted it to our great friend, DJ Madison, for his brilliant local show on Blue Wave Radio 101.1. We were both the first and only sailors ever to be on the show and JoAnne was asked to sing and play her ukulele live on the radio. A huge thank you to Madison for helping us make this brilliant memory that we will both cherish forever. For our anniversary gifts to each other, JoAnne received a new outboard engine, since our ten-year-old Yamaha 15 was no longer reliable. Since Bill is all about safety and security, he received a flamethrower that shoots out a flame of almost 10 feet. Yes, these are the types of gifts that cruising couples give to each other. They must be useful, practical, and all about improving everyday life aboard. Unfortunately, the virus soon arrived within the islands. After being allowed to move about more freely, all islanders were reduced to only being allowed to move about the islands with enforced curfews and restricted road and foot travel using ID numbers. Mandatory face masks, hand sanitizer use, body temperatures checks, and social w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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distancing were all enforced throughout the islands when out in public to prevent the spread of the virus. September rolled around, bringing with it more reasons to celebrate. It turned out to be a trifecta since Paul and Sabina of s/v Chat-Eau and JoAnne are all September babies. Chat-Eau experienced their first hurricane watch on Paul’s birthday and the possibility of the first hurricane of the season passing extremely close to the islands. We gave them advice, lent them heavy boat lines, and prepared them and other boats for the possible big winds. Thankfully, the islands were spared. A few days after the storm passed, the four of us headed for a great day that Sabina planned of visiting the Manawakee Eco Park to experience the local culture and see sloths, monkeys, and more. We cannot thank the owner, Mr. William, enough for the great memories and his attention to detail — the park was incredibly clean, the staff friendly, and the animals happy and free. On September 25, JoAnne’s birthday arrived. Her wish was to give back to the local businesses of the
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island. The restaurants, bars, resorts, and more had been closed since March, and a handful were beginning to re-open. Every Friday since then, we have continued to rent a car with Chat-Eau to visit as many local businesses in one day to help support them by buying drinks and food. We continued to snorkel, scuba dive, and explore the stunning surrounding reefs and visited Little French Cay several times to see the animals there. We often visited the tigers via dinghy at their waterfront cage to talk to and pet them. Everyone knows we are crazy about cats, even the big ones. Since this is the longest us two nomads have ever stayed anywhere in the 13+ years of cruising full time, we completed heaps of boat projects. We also continued to help local friends with their homes, boats, and business projects since many of them also had closed down businesses.
Truly Eden
We feel truly blessed to have been here in Roatán for so long. After being at anchor, we spoke to our friends, the owners of Fantasy Island, and moved into Fantasy Island Marina as a security precaution a week after the lockdown. We were concerned that with the pandemic lockdown and so many unemployed that desperation would set in quickly. To our surprise, there were not too many cases reported of theft on the island, and none against yachts in French Harbour. There are six security guards at night and five during the day here at Fantasy Island. We have become
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extremely close to all of them. We always enjoy surprising them with weekly hot dogs, tacos, popcorn, coffees, sweets, and more. We cannot thank them enough for their dedication and ensuring our safety. The two of us along with Chat-Eau, were soon given the fantastic opportunity to care for all of the Fantasy Islands animals when the resort closed for the pandemic and the staff departed. The four of us began caring for the animals that included chickens, ducks, peacocks, parrots, iguanas, water rabbits, a goose, and more. The animals have brought us tremendous joy and some sorrow. Mr. Carlos, the resort office manager and second in command, held down the fort after the rest of the staff left the property. We thoroughly enjoyed helping him tend to the unoccupied yachts in the marina and also care for the landscaping and grounds. When the islands went into the March lockdown, the maritime and air borders were closed. Tourism came to a screeching halt since no planes or boats were allowed in or out. Since the island’s economy is based almost 100% on tourism, many families immediately began to struggle financially. Since the lockdown, we have been fundraising and collecting donations of monies and goods for families in need by continuing to support a family of 30 and distributing food bags throughout the community. For hurricane season, there were only a handful of liveaboard cruisers left in the marina, and we moved ULTRA to the back of the marina to be safe in the lagoon and less exposed. Since Covid had made its way to the island, we feel truly blessed to have had Paul and Sabina of Chat-Eau as our quaranteam during this pandemic and to be such close and wonderful friends. We have had a blast making a zillion memories!
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Jungle Chicken Park Bill and JoAnne made for Fantasy Island its beautiful animals
George, the beautiful and free sloth
Bill, JoAnne, Paul and Sabina, drinks at the Sunken Fish, Roatán
Mother Nature Packs More Surprises
Bill and welding team that made ULTRA new engine part
Along with the pandemic and island lockdown, came a 5.7 earthquake just before morning yoga class, and then a series of tropical storm warnings: three super close calls of Category 4 Hurricanes, Eta and Iota; and a Category 1 Hurricane, Nana. Since the two of us are from the Texas Gulf Coast and have heaps of experience with hurricanes, we helped the cruisers prepare their boats with our ULTRA Hurricane Boat Prep Class. Since everyone in the marina had zero experience with hurricanes or hurricane prep, we enjoyed teaching them all how to secure lines to the mangroves to allow for the spring action for high winds and different tide levels. We also showed everyone how to put anchors out to kedge the boats off of the docks. Unoccupied boat owners contacted us to help them sort out their boats also for the hurricanes, since they knew we
Mr. Sherman and JoAnne another yummy fish after a fun day of fishing with him
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Quarantined in Paradise
had lots of experience. In turn, all of them donated to our ULTRA community projects to help the Bay Islands families in need. Furthermore, we assisted the resort owners and manager with their boats. Since they were preparing the hotel for possible hurricane damage, we assisted them with the info for bailing rainwater, and putting more fenders and lines out. We celebrated Christmas lunch with our amazing long time island friends, the Mr. Sherman Arch family. Afterwards, we hosted Christmas Dinner aboard ULTRA with Chat-Eau where Paul cooked eight yummy dishes and we prepared two. Fun times once again and feeling blessed to be celebrating yet another event together. We rang in the New Year with them on the beach and toasted to a super happy and healthy 2021 for everyone around the globe.
Bill and his new flamethrower
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JoAnne’s 20th anniversary present
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U LT R A
Outlook
At this time, plane travel has resumed somewhat. However, the one year anniversary of the islands’ shutdown will arrive soon, and tourism is still significantly down. There have not been any cruise ships allowed to visit the islands, and private yachts may only enter with prior approval along with a Copeco/Sinager Government letter. As Seven Seas Cruising Association Hosts for all of the Bay Islands and mainland Honduras, we are trying to keep everyone informed. We are more than thrilled to share with all of you that our ULTRA community projects to give back and help families in need have been recognized as a Clean Wake Project for the Bay Islands and mainland Honduras. For Christmas, we distributed 65 Christmas food bags filled with cleaning items, personal care items, and holiday treats to spread joy throughout the community. If you wish
Movie night under the stars
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Full Moon Beach Party
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to see our community projects, please subscribe to our YouTube channel at: www.youtube.com/user/yachtultra1 or our Instagram account: @yachtultraadventures If you wish to participate in donating or volunteering for one of our many community projects here in the Bay Islands, please contact us on Facebook at: Bill N JoAnne Harris. We sincerely appreciate your consideration of contributing. Our main focus is still on the island of the Roatán with a population of 65,000, since there are so many families in Christmas in the Caribbean
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need here. On mainland Honduras, there has been a huge spike in Covid-19. Medical professionals there sincerely appreciate the help for all of the hurricane victims, however, advise that due to this help the virus has spread exponentially and hospitals are full of Covid patients in many towns. No matter is ever too small. If everyone that reads this article donates at least $1, it would help to change the lives of others forever! We wish you all peace, love, happiness, and great health! Be safe everyone. Paco the capuchin monkey helping with the hurricane lines
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Talk of the Dock
By Zuzana Prochazka
SHIFTING SANDS 4 charter changes & updates
Worldwide charter has been on its butt. No boats moved for a long time – anywhere – but that’s changing. You now have options to charter with the majors in the US, explore Mexico, check out more of the Caribbean, or even train for a new career. Caribbean as well as European bases have different opening dates. For example, Grenada and St. Lucia may be open this summer while Croatia is expected to be open as of May 1. But nothing’s written in stone so check first and book soon because as the world opens, everyone will be clamoring to land a yacht to anywhere.
Florida charter is booming
Domestic travel is exploding. Everyone is done with being cooped up but maybe they aren’t quite ready for international excursions, so Florida has become a big draw and local charter companies have benefited greatly. The majors, like Dream Yacht Charter (DYC) and The Moorings, have taken note and while some of their bases have suffered in the Caribbean, they’ve shifted their fleets and opened new ones in Key West. Check out the sunset from Mallory Square and the cats at the Hemmingway House in Key West, and then set sail to Bill Baggs State Park at Key Biscayne. Stop at Isla Morada, Key Largo and Marathon and slip into island time. For experienced skippers able to make
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the long haul, The Moorings even has itineraries down to fabulous Fort Jefferson in the Dry Tortugas National Park. Both companies have their fleets at Stock Island and/or Ocean’s Edge Marina & Resort in Key West. A wide variety of monohulls and cats are available – there are even some powercats so you can cover a lot of territory quickly.
Mexico is wide open
Warm waters and cold margaritas are waiting down south. Mexico stayed open and charters in the Sea of Cortez have been busy. DYC’s base in La Paz has seen steady traffic and now that Espiritu Santo Island is open, more folks are headed there even in the summer months. w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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The Latest Industry News & Gossip You can anchor and go ashore although hiking into the interior of the island is still not allowed. Meanwhile, West Coast Multihulls is operating from both La Paz and Loreto which is about two thirds of the way down the Baja peninsula. Loreto National Park, just off the coast, is made up of five islands and is about 125 miles north of La Paz. You can fly directly into Loreto, a laid-back town of just 15,000, stroll the Malecon, visit the mission in the Gigante mountains and then provision for a weeklong charter on the pristine waters of the Sea of Cortez.
BVI cracks the door open
The British Virgin Islands have been locked down tight with long quarantine periods, multiple test requirements and overall, the tightest restrictions it the Caribbean. But there’s hope on the horizon with this statement issued the last week of April: “EFFECTIVE 15TH MAY 2021, FULLY VACCINATED PERSONS TRAVELING FROM OVERSEAS WOULD REQUIRE A PCR TEST WITHIN FIVE (5) DAYS OF TRAVEL, PROVIDE SATISFACTORY EVIDENCE OF BEING FULLY VACCINATED, AND WILL BE SUBJECT TO A PCR TEST UPON ARRIVAL (DAY ZERO). FULLY VACCINATED PERSONS WILL BE QUARANTINED UNTIL A NEGATIVE TEST RESULT IS RECEIVED FROM THE
BVI HEALTH SERVICES AUTHORITY. IN
OTHER WORDS, IF THE
TEST ADMINISTERED ON ARRIVAL RETURNS A NEGATIVE RESULT, THE
FULLY VACCINATED TRAVELER WILL BE IMMEDIATELY RELEASED FROM QUARANTINE (UNLESS THEY HAVE BEEN IN CLOSE CONTACT WITH A POSITIVE CASE).”
Okay, it’s still over-the-top restrictive, but if you just have to have a Painkiller in paradise, there’s a ray of sunshine on the horizon.
Train while you wait for the world to open
Charter is poised to explode once the world gets back on its feet and by then you could have a new career. Dream Yacht Charter (DYC) is offering four-week internships that groom applicants for two types of positions in the charter industry – marine mechanic and dock team staff. The training is offered at the company’s base at the Stock Island Yacht Club & Marina in Key West, FL. The internships are free and applicants are provided accommodations and an allowance for expenses for the duration of the program. Graduates are expected to be offered jobs with DYC’s fleet for positions in the US in summer and in the Caribbean in the winter. Skipper and hostess/chef training programs are coming soon. It’s not a bad way to use the pandemic to change careers and launch a new life.
As an insider, Zuzana has the privilege of seeing a lot of what’s going on inside the boating industry. If you are into the boating lifestyle, chances are you’d like to be privy to some of the things that will affect your lifestyle as soon as they become available. So, here is some of the inside information she has found while working the boat shows and industry functions. w w w .L at s a t t s . c o m
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thePyrate s th
are here
Pyrate Radio - The Global Digital HD Radio Network, by and for Crew and Cruisers!
Music for Livin’ the Dream “Feet in the Sand, Boat Drink in Hand” Direct from a tiki-bar, boat, or beach near you! LISTEN ON
Smartphone (including 5G), marine VSAT, worldwide marina & public Wi-Fi, select island FM stations, and waterfront businesses worldwide.
All links available at www.pyrateHD.com
T roprock &Boatsongs played right ´roun da clock ~ FEATURING ~
Broadcasting legend "Captain Ron" weekdays 10am-2pm Key West Time The Five o'clock EVERYWHERE show with Pyrate Barbarossa 2pm-6pm Key West time The Lats & Atts Show featuring Bob Bitchin Trending on the Triton news featurette – Nautical News for Captains and Crews Eric Stone and Jimmy Buffet songs every hour 24-7 Live radio broadcasts from your favorite boat shows Live concerts and Parrothead parties!
opportunity@pyrateradio.com +1 305 459-1559 www.pyrateradio.com www.pyrateradio.uk
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By Sonya David
Necessity, Passion, or Addiction?
DIY Boatwork: 146 Latitudes & Attitudes
If you are reading this article, I think you can agree that sailing is addictive. The wave of calm that flows through your veins as you shut off the engine and let the wind carry you to a new destination. The breeze rustles in your hair and the sunlight warms your face, the swish and gurgle of water rushes under your hull. No matter how salty or tired your body may feel, you crave to untie the dock lines again the second you step back onto firm ground.
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This exact feeling is what got me hooked on sailing back in high school. When I moved to the Bay Area for college, I dreamt of buying my own sailboat to live aboard. To get on the water as much as possible, I hopped onto any race boat that would accept me as crew. Until this point, I was still clueless as to the amount of time, money, and effort it took to maintain and own a sailboat of any size. A couple months after moving to San Francisco, I met a woman with a classic wooden boat and began helping her with small projects onboard and spent my other days following a boatwright friend around to learn from his spectacular brightwork skills. I quickly realized that a boat is a never-ending project that requires attention to detail, skill, and endless monetary investment. It was about this time that I met Jack, a young and enthusiastic sailor who had purchased his liveaboard boat just months before we met. We quickly became very fond of each other, and within four months of dating, I gave up my San Francisco apartment and moved aboard his boat, a Hunter Legend 37 from 1987. We jumped into some pretty hefty projects right away, first of which was replacing the 30-year-old holding tank and the rest of the waste system. Some would have jumped ship at the first sight of having to tackle such a gross and daunting project, but we both dove right in, eager to learn. This project was my first taste of real do-it-yourself boatwork: research, planning, measuring, and purchasing the parts needed to create a simple but functional waste system. The old aluminum tank was built behind a fiberglass cabinet and the head countertop was conveniently glued down with our newly discovered enemy: 5200 adhesive. It felt extreme to bring in a Sawzall to get the countertop off, but I quickly learned the tenacity of this 3M adhesive and understood this was the only solution. Once the countertop was off and sitting on the dock, it was out with the old and in with the new. If you know anything about boat work, you know it wasn’t that simple, but I will spare you all the gory details. After all, much like the stench that is left behind, every sailor has their own stinky head tale that lingers in their mind for years to come. Weirdly enough, after tackling such a gross and difficult project, we were anything but discouraged. In fact, we had our first dose of DIY work and we wanted more!
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NECESSITY
At first, all our DIY work was financially motivated as we could not afford to hand these projects off to an experienced boatyard or marine technician. This seems to be the most common reason for people doing their own boatwork — saving thousands that could be spent on more boat toys, or more sensible things like rent or mortgage payments. Boats are well known for being a financial hole that never seems to fill up, no matter how much money you throw at it. For many people, their DIY motivations are mainly to save money. Like many others, our list of things to fix and upgrade was much larger than our budget. Beyond the financial savings of DIY work, both Jack and I grew up with the “I can do it” mentality, making us too stubborn to fork over the dough to have someone else do the dirty work for us. Of course, learning as you go means there’s plenty of room for mistakes to be made, and we definitely made our fair share. With this in mind, some people feel it is safest to put their boats in the hands of experienced technicians, wanting to avoid inexperienced mistakes that may be more costly or have to be re-done. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with letting professionals handle repairs onboard. In fact, we are forever grateful for those who do, since we are marine technicians ourselves. Projects can be daunting and time consuming, and we understand that not everyone has the time it takes to complete big installs or repairs, especially if there’s a big learning curve involved. There are plenty of advantages to hiring out work to experienced professionals who’ve most likely tackled the same project before and will be efficient in doing so. However, there’s no better way to learn a boat inside and out than to tackle repairs yourself. For Jack and myself, we felt that in order to achieve our cruising goals safely and within our budget, we had to be completely self-sufficient. In only months of boat ownership, we had learned that things tend to break when you least expect it, usually when you are miles away from any sort of repair facility or professional help.
PASSION
Beyond the necessity to save money to fund our cruising dreams, our sincere passion for boatwork grew, and we could not get enough. Determined and hooked on boat life and the projects that came along with it, we w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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spent the next three and a half years tackling everything that came our way. During this time we realized our passion had potential. Turns out, we loved boatwork and dirty hands so much that we started our own marine maintenance and repair business, Spirit Marine Services. Our business was appropriately named after our first boat, which had been the spark that ignited our DIY addiction. There’s such satisfaction in bringing a boat back from neglect, and completing repairs and upgrades that motivate boat owners to get out on the water, while learning heaps of new skills along the way. Our love for life on the water never waned throughout those three and a half years, and neither did our passion for boatwork. We were a good team and headstrong determination had us yearning for more. It was time to give up our Hunter to purchase a long-term blue water cruiser. We fell in love with Gemini, a Passport 42 from 1986 with bare bones and tons of potential. The new boat came with a whole new set of challenges and opportunities to make her our own, and we were itching to get to work.
ADDICTION
Many times, no matter how passionate they are, a boat owner can reach a limit in their do-it-yourself endeavors. Not every project is created equal; some require not only time, but special skills and specific machinery that most people don’t have access to. So, when they are confronted with a problem, for example leaking steel fuel tanks, they deem this out of their wheelhouse and hand it over to a professional. After all, not everyone has a welder in their garage or the time to tackle this project on their own. For many boaters, completing necessary repairs and upgrades are the means to an end: fix the leaky fuel tank to be able to hold diesel safely and continue to sail. For us DIY addicts, such a complex project is an excuse for us to learn a new skill and push ourselves further into the world of boat repair. This brings us to our biggest challenge so far as boat owners and DIY fiends: learning to fiberglass and build our own fuel tanks for Gemini. One evening, we discovered a diesel smell coming from the bilge and traced it back to our fuel tanks — two 55-gallon steel tanks located in the compartment beneath our cockpit sole. We never dreamt of having to replace the fuel tanks, so we had absolutely no game plan as to how best to tackle this type of project. Our boat minded brains began running through possible repair solutions to fix this dreaded problem. We turned to advice from fellow boatyard friends, getting as many opinions as possible. If you have ever asked fellow sailors for advice on a project, you know that you will receive a million different “right” ways to reach the same end product. The biggest problem was that the existing tanks were too large to fit through any of our compartment openings. Our friends at Berkeley Marine Center boatyard suggested we cut the cockpit sole out to gain easy access and swap out the tanks for identical new ones. Alternatively, we could
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redesign the space to fit multiple smaller tanks that could slide through our existing compartments. Both of these options required someone else fabricating the new tanks for us. The simple answer was to hand over the project to the metal shop to remake our tanks, but our stubborn “I can do it” voices in our head kept nagging, begging us to dive in and do it ourselves. For us to tackle it on our own, our plan had to be achievable with the tools we had, and while still living aboard the boat. We soon discovered an alternative solution that seemed to best fit our dilemma: cut the tops of the tanks off and build fiberglass tanks inside the existing space. Keep in mind, each of us had only done a couple of very rudimentary fiberglass jobs, mainly to the extent of filling holes with epoxy. Needless to say, we had a big challenge and a steep learning curve ahead. We had many sleepless nights, lying awake thinking about this project and wondering if we were absolutely crazy in attempting it on our own. Jack spent countless hours staring at the fuel tanks, devising the best plan to tackle this fiberglass project. Special fuel-specific resin had to be used and everything had to be water-tight. Weirdly enough, once we got over the fear of not having a clue about fiberglass, we were giddy with excitement to start this project. We suited up in protective gear, and got right to work, cutting itchy fiberglass, mixing bucket after bucket of resin, and trying different glassing methods to get the results we strived for. After days of living in a construction zone, cutting accidental gobs of resin out of our hair and whipping up quick snacks with full-face respirators on, somehow it still seemed like the most practical solution for us DIY junkies. Our stubbornness paid off, yielding a custom fiberglass fuel tank without cutting any holes in our boat and we learned new valuable skills to add to our repertoire. It was no doubt the most challenging and difficult project we’ve tackled so far but also the most rewarding, expanding our skill level and pushing our boundaries. So I now ask you, is DIY boatwork about necessity, passion, or addiction? Is it a mix of all three? Was it because we just love lying sideways in a lazarette decked out in full on hazmat gear? The rush of slapping on quick setting resin in the two hottest weeks of San Francisco summer, not knowing if it would be good enough to hold fuel? Maybe it is part of the DIY addiction, needing to push ourselves out of our comfort zone. We have grown addicted to the satisfaction of such rewarding work. It has gone beyond the love for fixing our own vessel, as we get the same feeling when working on our clients’ boats. Handing over a finished product that we are genuinely proud of to a client while helping them get out sailing again is the best high we could ask for. When it’s our boat we are working on, we are thrilled to gain intimate knowledge of every system while also learning a new skill. Upon completion of a big project we instantly crave more, much like the feeling of stepping onto land after a good day of sailing. As we continue to feed this insatiable thirst, we look back at each accomplishment with great pride. Will this craving ever go away? As true DIY addicts, we sure hope it doesn’t! w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
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I Found It At
The Boat Show design M.D.
She’s a cruiser, she’s a doctor, she’s a designer! Your yacht is much more than a boat. It’s a place to escape your busy schedule, celebrate your accomplishments, and reconnect with the people who matter most. Do all that and more in a luxury craft customized to reflect your personal style, inspire your guests, and capture that “this-is-the-life” feeling every single time you step aboard. Dr. Stephanie has been a part of the Lats & Atts family for more years then she wants to admit to. She was one of the first models for our T-shirt line, seen here, taken at the St. Pete Boat Show about 15 years ago. Design M.D. is dedicated to helping people find the best interior designs for their boats, including custom salon tables created from natural wood. If you’ve been looking to upgrade your boats interior, give Dr. Stephanie a shout out. You will like what she comes up with! You can contact her through her website, www.designMD.co. Tell her Bob sent ya!
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I Found It At
The Boat Show Edson Chain Care+ Life is maintenance —Edson makes it easy! Sailboats chain and wire steering systems do not last forever — so now is the time to inspect and replace one of the most critical systems on your boat! If your chain links have any corrosion or cracks near the pins, or if the wire cables show signs of fraying or “meat hooks,” it is time to replace the entire chain and wire system. Edson has made installing new chain and wire a little easier by including a can of Chain Care+ with every kit. Edson’s Chain Care+ is a great way to keep your chain and wire protected from the saltwater’s harsh environment and avoid the mess of traditional 30W motor oil! Chain Care+ is equipped with three nozzle settings, including a 360-degree nozzle and extended nozzle that deliver a range of application options, allowing for complete chain and wire coverage. Consisting of a fully synthetic hydrocarbon oil, it provides superior corrosion protection by combining a high-penetration ability with high viscosity, while naturally repelling water. Following evaporation of the solvent, it forms a thin, even, water-insoluble film. This long-term lubrication excels under high loads, is thermally stable, and works actively to mitigate contamination. After installing your new kit, apply Chain Care+ for an unrivaled smooth feel and the best in corrosion and wear protection.
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I Found It At
The Boat Show Shadetree Fabric Shelters Keeping decks cool for decades!
Shadetree boat awning systems have been around for a whole lotta years, and is the answer to the boater’s need for protection from sun and rain while at anchor or in port. Modeling the design on dome tent technology, Shadetrees are self-supported fabric structures. Flexible carbon/fiberglass wands support a coated Dacron fabric canopy. This self-supporting feature eliminates the need to hold up the awning with a halyard, and makes setup and take down an efficient process. This system did not evolve easily. But it did evolve with the cruiser in mind. In fact, the company was created by cruiser Tom Schlinkert for his own boat.
Ventilation is improved with Shadetree as hatches and companionways are covered rain or shine. The “tunnel” shape of the Shadetree provides shade at all sun angles, and reduces the effects of blowing rain and channels breezes over the deck, reducing cabin temperatures. The Shadetree works well with biminis and dodgers also. The Shadetree system is in use all over the world. Take a few minutes and check out their website at www.ShadetreeFabricShelters.com and you will see why this system is really designed by and for the cruising sailor!
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6
1995 GOZZARD 44 AC A well equipped, comfortable, and safe cruising yacht. Asking $245,000
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Get YOUR Yacht Sold Fast!
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We Need YOU to List with US!
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CELEBRATING OUR 42ND SUMMER ON THE ANNAPOLIS HARBOR! 326 First St #405, Annapolis, MD 21403 Phone 410-268-4100, Fax 410-630-7621 cary@sailyard.com www.sailyard.com
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54’ Hylas 54... 2005... $675,000 arne@sailyard.com 53’ Trumpy 53... 1959... $149,000 arne@sailyard.com 51’ Morgan 51... 1976... $100,000 arne@sailyard.com 50’ Beneteau 50... 1997... $144,900 arne@sailyard.com 50’ Lagoon 500... 2012... $468,000 arne@sailyard.com 49 49’ Taswell Center Cockpit... 1992... $325,000 rich@sailyard.com 46’ CAL 46... 1977... $89,900 cary@sailyard.com 45’ Bruce Roberts... 1997... $114,500 cary@sailyard.com 45’ Island Trader 45... 1978... $74,900 arne@sailyard.com 45’ Bruce Roberts 45... 1999... $74,900 arne@sailyard.com 44’ Beneteau 44.7... 2005... $135,000 arne@sailyard.com 43’ C&C 43 1972... $49,900... arne@sailyard.com 43 43’ Taswell 43 Center Cockpit... 1988... $179,500 rich@sailyard.com 43’ Formosa 43 Sloop... 1985... $69,500 rich@sailyard.com 43’ C&C 43... 1982... $44,900 arne@sailyard.com
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37’ Tartan 37... 1979... $34,000 arne@sailyard.com 37’ Rafiki 37... 1977... $44,900 arne@sailyard.com 36’ Tashiba 36... 1986... $149,900 rich@sailyard.com 33’ Cobra 33... 2019... $123,000 arne@sailyard.com 33‘ Flying Tiger 10M... 2007... $41,900 cary@sailyard.com 33’ Cape Dory 33... 1982... $24,900 cary@sailyard.com 30 30’ Islander Bahamas... 1984... $14,900 cary@sailyard.com 18’ Herreshoff American Eagle... 1978... $19,900 cary@sailyard.com
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“READ OUR REVIEWS ONLINE AND JOIN OUR HAPPY FAMILY OF CRUISING CUSTOMERS!” pg 168 Annapolis sailyard.indd 1
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Latitudes & Attitudes 169 4/22/21 11:46 AM
The Bosun’s Bag Hard-to-Find “Stuff” for the Cruiser
SternPerch Seats
You’re never too old to learn something stupid!
After market seats, pads, and rail cushions
170 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 170-174 Bosun's Bag 35 - MKC.indd 2
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4/25/21 5:31 PM
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Hydrogenerator
Latitudes & Attitudes 171 4/25/21 5:31 PM
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510-900-3616 ext. 104 Fax: 510-900-3617 172 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 170-174 Bosun's Bag 35 - MKC.indd 4
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Now Sailing Francisco Bay with educational programs for young and old.
Call of the Sea’s mission is to inspire young people to unleash their potential through experiential, environmental education under sail. To Donate, Participate, or Volunteer, go to:
CallOfTheSea.Org
Wanna Cheat? Here are the answers to this issue’s Extra Large Maritime Crossword Puzzle. Go ahead, no one will know... except you! On Page 174
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Latitudes & Attitudes 173 4/25/21 5:31 PM
Giant Latitudes & Attitudes Nautical Crossword Puzzle Created by Myles Mellor
Across
Down
1 Fancy dock 2 Energy 3 Ways out 4 Highest grade of seafarer qualification, 2 words 5 Smart 7 Leave out 8 Score a victory 9 Making a racket 10 Puerto Rican natives, e.g. 11 Small boat 12 Throw out a fishing line 13 Greek island 17 About to arrive 20 Ancient Mariner’s companion
174 Latitudes & Attitudes pg 170-174 Bosun's Bag 35 - MKC.indd 6
22 Fountain for one 26 Weight measure, for short 27 Beachcomber’s find 29 In motion on a voyage 30 “Don’t bet ___!” - 2 words 31 Breakfast drink Mosquitos, e.g. 32 34 Small coastal or river craft Navigation aids in the sky 35 36 Pirate ship emblem, 2 words 37 2000 Tom Hanks movie 38 Rainbow shape 46 Soaked with rays, 2 words 47 Largemouth or smallmouth 50 Of the, in France 51 The Sunshine State 53 Leonardo’s middle name 54 Barrel 55 Smooth singers 57 Like a buoy at sea 59 Ocean motion 60 Ravens’ havens 61 Open ocean, old word 62 Sailor’s tattoo, perhaps 68 America’s Cup contender 70 Cup, plate, and fork for example 71 Mixologist’s workplace 72 Dizzy Gillespie’s forte 74 Roman 7 76 Household computer, for short
Wanna Cheat? The answer to this are on page 173
1 Tall spar or arrangement of spars 6 One way to sail 14 “O Sole ___” They are often carried out in 15 drydock 16 West Indies grouping, 2 words 18 Go with your ___ Gets closer 19 21 Alexandria’s locale 23 Blue color 24 Inert gas symbol 25 Congers 28 “Once in a __ ___” (2 words) 31 Changes from one tack to another away from the wind 33 Expression of surprise 35 Solar energy source 37 Multi-hulled watercraft, slang 39 Lifting device 40 It is, poetically 41 Shallow water that’s a hazard to navigation 42 LAX landing time, abbreviation 43 High card in poker 44 Cleaning the decks, e.g. 45 Partial deck above the upper deck and at the head of the vessel Stomach muscles, briefly 48 49 Floating with no control 52 Wine and fruit juice drink 53 Coloring 54 __ and the Sunshine Band 56 Jessica of the “Fantastic Four” series 58 Type of sailing vessel 61 Optical illusions 63 Self image Woman’s hairstyle 64 65 Makes turbid 66 Belted constellation 67 Sun beam 69 Soak up the sun They’re skewered and grilled, 2 words 70 73 Bad thing to wreak 75 Nope! 76 Before as a prefix 77 Asian big cat Orange-flavored liqueur, 2 words 78 79 Go off course
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Latitudes & Attitudes 175 4/18/21 12:03 PM
FFE EATU RERDE D ATU LATITUDES & ATTITUDES - Advertiser Spotlight
Peggy Huang YEARS IN LATS & ATTS: 18 BUSINESS: Cruising Yachts LOCATION: Taiwan “We think of Hylas owners around the world, industry partners, the production team in Taiwan, and support staff here in the US as being part of a big family. Each of these family members gets the attention they need to be able to customize their Hylas experience to meet individual goals. That’s exactly the way we feel about working with Bob and Lisa and their team. Not only does Lats & Atts do a great job of appealing to a broad spectrum of cruisers, sail or power, they work extremely hard to make their advertising partners feel part of the family. They listen carefully to be able to meet our objectives. A great team and a superb read whatever your latitude.”
www.hylasyachts.com 176 Latitudes & Attitudes
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You
ADVERTISER INDEX These are the smartest advertisers in the marine industry! Be sure to tell ‘em where you saw ‘em.
Marine Advertisers
AB Inflatables 179 Aero Yacht 28 American Sailing Association 32 Annapolis Hybrid Marine 109 Annapolis Sail Yard 168 Artisan Mattress 38 Atlantic Towers 123 ATN 117 Atomic Tuna Yachts 166 Aumaris 33 B&G Yacht Management 58 Bacon Sails 123 Bavaria Sail & Power 5 151 BB Books Beta Marine 39 Blue Water Sailing School 42-43 Bocas Marina 121 Conch Charters 169 Coppercoat 115 CS Johnson 113 Curtis Stokes & Assoc. 156-157 35 Defender Marine design M.D. 52 Doyle Sails Advertorial 63 Doyle Sails 21 Eastern Yacht Sales 165 109 Clean e-Marine Edson 7 El Cid Marinas 36 eMarine Systems 24 eMarine Systems 117 Forespar 119 Froli Sleep System 123 Great Lakes Scuttlebutt 105 Hamilton Ferris 49 HMC Handcraft Mattress 113 How Not To Sail 127 Hylas 2-3 Indiantown Marina 111 Kanberra Gel 26
Keenan Filters 23 Kiwigrip/PYI 115 L&A Jackette 133 Lats & Atts Ship Store 106 Lee Sails 31 Little Yacht Sales 164 Mack Sails 25 Mack Yacht Services 27 Main Sheet Partners 127 MarTek Davits 127 Massey Yachts 162-163 Mystic Knotwork 121 Newport Boat Show 34 127 Next Gen Nexus Green 30 OCENS 111 Offshore Sailing School 13 Pacific NW Boater 103 Passport Yacht Brokerage 158-159 Passport Yachts 10-11 Port Ludlow Marina 108 PYI 119 Pyrate Radio 145 Rainman Watermakers 9 Ronstan 29 Royal Cape Catamarans 37 S&J Yachts 160-161 Safe Harbor Products 30 Sailrite 180 Sailtime 14-15 Sea Frost 48 Shade Tree Fabric Shelters 109 Smiths X-treme Cleaners 123 South Coast Yachts 155 Subscription Ad 50-51 Ultimate Sailing 133 ULTRA Marine West 16 Wakespeed 108 Whiteaker Yacht Sales 167 Wichard 8
ADVERTISERS
You can reach the most active segment of the boating market - in print and online! w w w .L at s A t t s . c o m
Boats & Boat Brokers
Aero Yacht 28 Annapolis Sail Yard 168 Atomic Tuna Yachts 166 Bavaria Yachts 5 Conch Charters 169 Curtis Stokes 156-157 Eastern Yacht Sales 165 Hylas 2-3 Little Yacht Sales 164 Massey Yacht Sales & Svcs 162-163 Passport Yacht Brokerage 158-159 Passport Yachts 10-11 Royal Cape Catamarans 37 S&J Yachts 160-161 South Coast Yachts 155 Whiteaker Yacht Sales 167
Hart Sytems Hydrovane International Marine Inc. Keylime Sailing Club King Air Marine KISS-SSB Radio Tek M&B Shipcanvas Masthead Enterprises No-Wear Guard OceanMedix Offshore Passage Opportunities Sailmaker’s Supply Technautics Wolfgang Harms LLC (book) Zarcor
Bosun’s Bag
Non-Marine Advertisers
Atlantic Towers Banner Bay Marine CruisingConcepts.com Cruise RO Watermakers Escape to the Islands Forget About It Foss Foam & Rudders Gig Harbor Boat Works
None! Why would we want that? This is a boating magazine. Ya wanna see fancy watches, pick-up trucks, and high-priced cars, read the other mags!
Don’t Wait! Contact Ad Director Lisa O’Brien aboard Traveler in the San Juan Islands. 510-900-3616 Ext 105 Lisa@LatsAtts.com
Latitudes & Attitudes : Winter - Spring - Summer & Fall Issues Next Issue: Fall 2021 Ad Insertions by 7/12/21 - Art Due 7/19/21 - On Sale 8/31/21 Contact Us Today: Ads@LatsAtts.com 510-900-3616 ext.105
Latitudes & Attitudes 177
Boat People
Meet some folks who have managed to make a lifestyle out of most people’s dreams. Boat people can be found on oceans and seas, scattered around the globe. They can be spotted easily. They are the ones who have a glazed look in their eyes as they scan the horizons. Here are a few we’ve seen. Have you seen any lately? If so, email a photo and information to: submissions@LatsAtts.com
Bernard grew up in Mobile, AL, during the civil rights movements of the ‘60s. Living on Mobile Bay, he bought a 26’ San Juan and took a year off work so he, his wife, and baby girl could spend the year island hopping. He became the first black Commodore of the Mobile Yacht Club. Now in his 70s, he sails his C&C 36 with his son, Bernard II, in the weekly beer can races.
Christopher Armstrong is a retired contractor from San Diego and captain of s/v Wishlist. Chris has been cruising the Sea of Cortez for the past four years. He and Wishlist sailed from Zihuatanejo to Manzanillo at the end of March 2020, before anchoring in the bay of Las Hadas, where the sunsets are always stellar.
Here’s Capt. Jean and John at Basil’s on Mustique. John says, “Our first visit to Basil’s was when Basil was actually waiting on the yachties! He set a Hairoun beer coaster down on the table, which was new to me, and when I asked him how to pronounce it, he said, ‘COASTER,’ and looked at me like I was the dumbest sailor he had ever seen.”
This is John. He lives in the greater Denver area. Living aboard there is tough. Thus, they charter once or twice yearly, depending on how many wallets they can fleece. This keeps it novel and fresh, and has only caused a couple of divorces, so far! He watched us refit on the Lost Soul many years ago, and got hooked on Lats&Atts.
Musician, sailor, husband, and father, Mark Nooney loves heading out of his slip for a day of filling the sails while dreaming of cruising beyond the waters of the Chesapeake. No wind? No problem! Mark drops the hook and serenades the fishes and his first mate, Jeanne, who joins him on sax!
Meet Sonya, cleaning her catch while Fathom the boat cat acts as supervisor. She and Jack are what you might call “DIY” sailors. In fact, they have a story in this issue about DIY projects while living aboard and cruising. She is an avid sailor and really lives the cruising lifestyle.
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