Ain't That a Bite!

Appetizers, EntrĂŠs and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

A Penguin Random House Book.

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ISBN: 978-0-447-49429-5 Printed in the United States of America First Edition 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

To

julia Whose recipes and passion inspired this book.

contents

08 INTRODUCTION 12 INGREDIENTS 14 EQUIPMENT 16 APPETIZERS 20 22 24 26 28

Appetizers of the 1950's Modern Appetizers Roquefort Turnover Camembert Biscuits Potato Cheese Sticks

30 ENTRÉES 34 36 38 40 42

Entrees of the 1950's Modern Entrees Boeuf Bourguignon Braised Onions Sautéd Mushrooms

46 DESSERTS 50 52 54 56 58

Desserts of the 1950's Modern Desserts Caramel Almond cream Orange Bavarois Lady Fingers

60 INDEX

8

Introduction: The Kitchen of the 1950’ s

THE KITCHEN OF THE 1950'S

What was American food like forty years ago? Most Americans ate in the typically middle-class WASP way of the teens and twenties—a big prime-rib roast of beef for the traditional family Sunday lunch of twelve to fourteen people. If not beef we might have a fine, big, well-aged leg of lamb— always cooked medium gray, never pink or red rare, and always served with mint sauce as well as gravy. Or there would be a fat roasted chicken with creamed onions and mashed potatoes. Most families particularly remember beef, not only rib roasts but also magnificent big well-marbled porterhouse steaks. They were full of real beefy flavor in those days, and they were juicy. Of course, that was the happy era when emphasis was

on the quality of the beef, not the fat content.

Many family’s cooking was essentially simple and straightforward, and had plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables. § As to specifics, one should point out aspics. Jellied madrilene was a favorite fancy soup of the period, a beef consommé flavored with fresh tomato and topped with a splash of whipped cream—that was before sour cream came upon us. Melba toast was a standard accompaniment to the soup at ladies’ luncheons—and there were many of them then because running a household rather than having a career gave many women the leisure time. These carefully orchestrated

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However, after many years of fresh fruits, elaborate dishes and grueling hours, the 1950's home strayed towards practical and prepackaged meals.

meals often featured a large molded ring of tomato aspic, its center filled with chicken, crab, or lobster salad. § Another staple of the era were ladies’ lunches.

Hostesses would proudly lead they're guests to seats around a nicely appointed table where they would each sit down to a pretty china plate upon which stood an upright, somewhat phallic-shaped molded aspic holding in suspension diced green grapes, diced marshmallows, and diced bananas. § Surrounded lavishly but neatly with squirts of whipped cream, this lovingly constructed edifice rested on several leaves of iceberg lettuce far too small to hide anything under. After the main course,

and grandly brought in to the acclaim of the guests, was a very large and high coconut cake, almost certainly made from a cake mix and, again, constructed with utmost care. § That was a quite typical, dressy example of the period, created with the care typical of the nineteen fifty’s kitchen.

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THE MODERN KITCHEN OF THE 50’s INCORPORATED BUILT-IN CABINETS, WITH A LONG COUNTER TOP, AND INTEGRATED APPLIANCES.

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THE FLAVORS OF TWO ERAS

BACON

Remember to allow bacon to fully dry before frying or using in most recipes.

The kind of bacon used in 1950's recipes is fresh, unsalted, and unsmoked. As this is difficult to find today, we have specified smoked bacon; its taste is usually fresher than that of salt pork. § To blanch bacon place the bacon strips in a pan of cold water, about 1 quart for each 4 ounces. Bring to a simmer and simmer 10 minutes. Drain the bacon and rinse it thoroughly in fresh cold water, then dry it on paper towels.

BUTTER

In modern days, we have plenty of butter substitutes; including delicious vegan alternatives

Fifties butter was made from matured cream rather than from sweet cream, is unsalted, and has an almost nutty flavor. § Except for cake frostings and certain desserts for which we have specified unsalted butter, modern salted butter and the 1950's one are interchangeable in cooking . § When ordinary butter

is heated until it liquefies, a milky residue sinks to the bottom of the saucepan.

The clear liquid above it is clarified butter.

It burns less easily than the ordinary one, as it is the milky particles in it which blacken first when heated. § Clarified butter is often times used for sautéing the white bread used for canapés, or such delicate items as de-boned and skinned chicken breasts. It’s also the base for brown butter sauce, and is used rather than fat in the brown roux for fine brown sauces. § To clarify butter, cut it into pieces and place it in a saucepan over moderate heat. When the butter has melted, skim off the foam, and strain the clear yellow liquid into a bowl, leaving the milky residue in the bottom of the pan. § The residue may be stirred into soups and sauces.

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Like with butter, cheese is an ingredient that many are eliminating from their diets.

Vegan options abound. Mostly made of soy or peas, these products will melt but not gratin.

CHEESE

The two cheeses most commonly used in the fifties were Swiss and Parmesan. § Imported Swiss cheese is of two types, either of which may be used: true Gruyère with small holes, and Emmenthal which is fatter, less salty, and has large holes. § Wisconsin “Swiss” may also be substituted.

it, and so that they can be removed easily.

Celery, garlic, fennel, or other items may be included in the packet, but are always specifically mentioned, such as, for example “a medium herb bouquet with celery stalk.” § A small standard one should contain at least 2 parsley sprigs, 1/3 of a bay leaf, and 1 sprig or 1/8 teaspoon of thyme.

HERB BOUQUET

This term refers to a combination of parsley, thyme, and bay leaf for flavoring soups, stews, sauces, and braised meat and vegetables. § If the herbs are fresh and in sprigs or leaf, the parsley is folded around them and they are tied with string. § If the herbs are dried, they are wrapped in a piece of washed cheesecloth and tied. § A bundle is made so the herbs will not disperse themselves into the liquid or be skimmed off

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1

2 3

4

5

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APPLIANCES EVOLVED

SAUCEPAN

Saucepans in a range of sizes are essential.

One with a metal handle can also be set in the oven.

CAST IRON SKILLET

A cast iron skillet, has sloping sides and is used for browning; the curved handle makes it easy to turn rather than toss the food.

THE SIEVE

The sieve or strainer was used in the 1950's when one was instructed to force food through a sieve. The ingredients, such as pounded lobster shells and butter, are placed on the screen and rubbed through it with the pestle. An ordinary sieve placed over a bowl or a food mill can take the place of a sieve.

ELECTRIC MIXER

A heavy-duty electric mixer makes light work of heavy meat mixtures, fruit cake batters, and yeast doughs as well as beating egg whites beautifully and effortlessly. § Other useful attachments include a meat grinder with sausage-stuffing horn and a hot-water jack which attaches to the bottom of the stainless steel bowl.

WIRE WHISK

Wire whisks, are wonderful for beating eggs, sauces, canned soups, and for general mixing. They are for faster uses than the electric mixer and thus should not be eliminated from the equipment. § Whisks range from minute to gigantic, and the best selections are in restaurant-supply houses. You should have several sizes including the balloon whip for beating egg whites.

Appetizers, Entrées and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

ROQUEFORT TURNOVER CAMEMBERT BISCUITS POTATO CHEESE STICKS

APPETIZERS

20

ASPIC: A CLEAR JELLY TYPICALLY MADE OF STOCK AND GELATIN AND USED AS A GLAZE OR GARNISH OR T O MAKE A MOLD OF MEAT, FISH, OR VEGETABLES.

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appetizers of the 1950’s The 1950’s brought a renewed vivacity to the country. Hope soared, giddiness rippled and money flowed. As long as I Love Lucy was on the newly invented television, life was good. So good, in fact, that over 16 million babies were born during the first half of the decade. § Gastronomically, though, the Fabulous Fifties were anything but.

Experts enthusiastically denigrate the decade as the nadir of American cuisine.

The mass distribution of processed foods, thanks to transportation, is often blamed, as well as the rise of McDonald’s and other hamburger chains. § Additionally, once Mom was out of the house for the duration of the war, she found it really difficult to go back home and work as a housewife

without any "industrial era" help. It was at this time that we got those ads about appliances and prepared foods freeing us from the kitchen. § So we turned to the well-advertised can, package and pouch. § Appetizers such as Jello salad, aspics and "soup package dip" found it's origin in this era. § The mantra of the times was fast, easy and delicious. Although housewives still had several hours to prepare dishes, the shift towards convenience sees it's genesis on this decade. Many of the recipes in this book may seem long winded to the modern eye; however, for a fifties cook, they were the epitome of speed and simplicity.

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Appetizers today are a true manifestation of our country's diversity of cultures and ideologies: from vegan options to Asian fusions.

modern appetizers Traditionally, an appetizer is a way to start a dinner course or a meal. It’s often referred to as a starter or canapes. They are designed to be eaten without silverware in the majority of cases. There are times that they will require a small spoon or fork. § There are multiple types of appetizers. Some are created for one-bite snacks and others help to prepare you for the next course that comes along at a dinner party. The whole point of appetizers is to peak your appetite for the next meal coming along. § However, many appetizers have moved on from this. They are now commonly used in buffets or nibbles, even though there are no other meals planned afterward. Some appetizers help to create something for guests to do, especially if

they’re nervous. § They make excellent party food options, especially for cocktail parties. You can have servers walk around with the items, and they are quickly eaten while entertaining guests. People can also place a few on a plate at a buffet, so they’re not constantly getting up for more. § In recent years, fruit and vegetable types of appetizers are among the healthiest of options; and the most popular at trendy parties. Long gone are the days of exclusively deep fried food and dairy ridden dip. § These new recipes involve no meat in the majority of cases, usually using raw fruits and vegetables or purees to help create mouth-watering dishes.

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For the pastry, instead of making it from scratch, now-a-days you can find it in the store, ready to go.

Look in the refrigerated section and save hours of work!

25

ROQUEFORT TURNOVERS

TURNOVERS

INGREDIENTS

½ Lb. Roquefort or blue cheese 1/4 lb. (1 stick) softened butter 2 egg yolks 1 to 2 Tb. Cognac 11/4 tsp. pepper 2 Tb. minced chives 2 to 6 Tb.. whipping cream Chilled pastry dough made from 4 cups of flour 1 egg beaten in a bowl with ½ tsp. water

PREPARATION

Mash the cheese in a 3-quart mixing bowl with a mixing fork. Beat in the butter, then the egg yolks, cognac, pepper, and chives. § Beat in the cream by tablespoons but do not let the mixture thin out too much. Correct seasoning. § Roll out the dough into a rectangle 1/8 inch thick. Cut the dough into 2½-inch squares. § Preheat oven to 425 degrees. § Place 1 teaspoon of filling in the center of each square. § One by one, paint a 1/8 inch border of beaten egg around the edges of the pastry. Fold the pastry over on itself and press the edges together firmly, and making a design with the tines of a fork.

Place on a buttered baking sheet. § Paint the tops with beaten egg. Make shallow Crosshatch lines with the point of a knife, and poke a 1/8 inch hole through the very center of each pastry top, so that cooking steam can escape. § Bake in upper third of preheated oven for about 15 minutes, or until puffed and lightly browned.

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These mouthfuls are made of pastry dough cut into shapes. In the center, a small lump of filling is placed. The edges of the pastry are moistened with beaten egg, then folded over upon itself to enclose the filling.

INGREDIENTS

6 to 8 ounces ripe Camembert cheese A 2-quart mixing bowl 3 ounces (3/4 stick) softened butter 2 eggs ½ tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour

PREPARATION

Scrape off the crusts and mash the cheese in the bowl with a mixing fork. Blend in the butter, then beat in the eggs and seasoning. § Work in the flour and knead everything together for a moment to make a smooth and fairly supple dough. Knead in a tablespoon or so more flour if dough seems too soft. § Wrap in waxed paper and chill until firm. Roll out ¼ inch thick, cut into 1½-inch rounds, and brush with egg as in the preceding master recipe for cheese biscuits. § Bake in upper third of a preheated 350 degree oven for about 15 minutes, or until lightly browned.

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For the pastry, instead of making it from scratch, now-a-days you can find it in the store, ready to go.

Look in the refrigerated section and save hours of work!

29

POTATO CHEESE STICKS

15

10

60 PIECES

INGREDIENTS

½ lb. baking potatoes (2 medium potatoes) 2/3 cup of flour 4 ounces (1 stick) softened butter 1 egg 4 ounces (1 cup) grated Swiss cheese 1/5 tsp. white pepper Pinch of nutmeg Pinch of cayenne pepper Salt as needed 2 lightly buttered baking sheets

PREPARATION

Peel and quarter the potatoes. Boil in salted water until tender. Drain, and put through a ricer. You should have 1 cup. § Stir the potatoes over moderate heat in a heavy-bottomed saucepan for 2 to 3 minutes until they form a light film on the bottom of the pan, indicating most of their moisture has been evaporated. § Beat the flour into the potatoes, then the butter by fractions, then the egg, cheese, and seasonings. Taste for seasoning. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. § With a fluted pastry tube 1/4 inch diameter, squeeze the mixture into 2½ inch lengths spaced ½ inch apart onto the baking sheets. § Bake both sheets at a time in preheated oven for about 15 minutes, or until sticks are lightly browned.

Appetizers, Entrées and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

BOEUF BOURGUIGNON BRAISED ONIONS SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS

ENTRÉES

34

entrées of the 1950’s In the hopeful 1950’s, the bright future ahead was on everyone’s mind, and modern technology pitched in to create some very trendy foods. A huge trend was the TV dinner, which came pre-made and frozen, and didn’t require any clean-up. § Fresh foods were replaced by packaged ones like the super-popular Tang and Lipton’s Onion Soup Mix (when mixed with a container of sour cream it gave rise to an oddball dip that’s still popular today). § Thanks to the efforts of entrepreneurs like Don the Beachcomber, the Tiki fad was in full-swing in the 1950’s, and for reasons unknown to man, gelatin-based dishes and salads were

also de rigueur at every dinner party. § These gelatin dishes were not just reserved for desserts or appetizers. They were also entrées and main courses. § Fortunately, we're not going to include any of these in our book, they're just absolutely inexcusable. § Besides the TV dinners and the aspics, the 1950’s also saw an awakening in international cuisine. With the arrival of the jet, Paris was only 7 hours away! Many french recipes started crossing the pond, and a first wave of fusion food was created.

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TV DINNER: A PRE-PACKAGED, FROZEN MEAL, THAT REQUIRES LITTLE PREPARATION AND CONTAINS ALL THE ELEMENTS FOR A SINGLE-SERVING.

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Entrées today are a true manifestation of our country's diversity of cultures and ideologies: from vegan options to Asian fusions.

modern entrées Contemporary trends generally fit into larger movements, around healthy eating, ­­­­­­­—with a greater emphasis on vegan cooking and curative foods— and concern for the planet through sustainable practices.

It’s also notable a generational shift in ethnic cooking, where second­­ —and third—generation children of immigrant families are taking over their parents’ kitchens and shattering norms. § Some items on previous years trend lists have gone truly mainstream: avocado toast, poke, foods in bowls, fried chicken, truff les, kale, the ever growing acceptance of farm raised fish, Brussels sprouts, customized fast food, upscale vegan cooking and restaurants filtering and bottling water on site. § A good representative of

today’s culinary landscape is the vegan burger. There’s been a change in meatfree ‘meats’; many of them making huge strides on taste. § Brands like Impossible Foods are making plant-based burgers lots which have been well received. And the acclaimed veggie burger at Shouk in Washington, D.C. incorporates chunks of beets, mushrooms, cauliflower, lentils, black beans, onions and more, dresses it with tomato, pickled turnip, arugula, charred onion and tahini instead of mayo.

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Instead of the complicated steps described here, you can also add all ingredients to a slow cooker and simply wait 3-5 hours for a delicious approximation to this mid-century delight.

INGREDIENTS

A 6 ounce chunk of bacon A 9- to 10 inch fireproof casserole, 3 inches deep 1 Tb.. olive oil or cooking oil A slotted spoon 3 Lbs. lean stewing beef cut into 2 inch cubes (see preceding list of cuts) 1 sliced carrot 1 sliced onion 1 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. pepper 2 Tb.. flour 3 cups of a full-bodied, young red wine 2 to 3 cups brown beef stock or canned beef bouillon 1 Tb.. tomato paste 2 cloves mashed garlic ½ tsp. thyme A crumbled bay leaf The blanched bacon rind

PREPARATION

Remove rind, and cut bacon into lardons (sticks, ¼ inch thick and 1½ inches long).

Simmer rind and bacon for 10 minutes in 1½ quarts of water. Drain and dry. § Preheat oven to 450 degrees. § Sauté the bacon in the oil over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon. Set casserole aside. Reheat until fat is almost smoking before you sauté the beef. § Dry the beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Sauté it, a few pieces at a time, in the hot oil and bacon fat until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the bacon. § Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with the salt and pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly with the flour. § Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat and return to oven for 4 minutes more. This browns the flour and covers the meat with a light crust.

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BOEUF BOURGUIGNON

90

30

6

SERVINGS

Remove casserole from oven, and turn temperature down to 325 degrees. § Stir in the wine, and enough stock or bouillon so that the meat is barely covered.

Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs, and bacon rind.

Bring to simmer on top of the stove. Then cover the casserole and set in lower third of preheated oven.

Regulate heat so liquid simmers very slowly for 2½ to 3 hours. The meat is done when a fork pierces it easily. § When the meat is tender, pour the entire contents of the casserole into a sieve set f lush over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and bacon to it. § Skim fat off the sauce. Simmer sauce for a minute or two, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2½ cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons of stock or canned bouillon. Taste for seasoning.

Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables.

FOR IMMEDIATE SERVING

Cover the casserole and simmer for 2 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in its casserole, or arrange the stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles, or rice, and decorated with parsley.

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Brown-braised onions are used whenever you wish a brown effect, such as in fricassees like coq au vin and boeuf bourguignon, or in a mixture with other vegetables.

BRAISED ONIONS

6

SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS For 18 to 24 peeled white onions about 1 inch in diameter 1 1/2 Tb. butter 1 1/2 Tb. oil A 9- to 10 inch enameled skillet 1/2 cup of brown stock, canned beef bouillon, dry white wine, red wine, or water Salt and pepper to taste A medium herb bouquet: 4 parsley sprigs, 1/2 bay leaf, and 1/4 tsp. thyme tied in cheesecloth

PREPARATION When the butter and oil are bubbling in the skillet, add the onions and sautĂŠ over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling the onions about so they will brown as evenly as possible. Be careful not to break their skins. You cannot expect to brown them uniformly. Pour in the liquid, season to taste, and add the herb bouquet. Cover and simmer slowly for 40 to 50 minutes until the onions are perfectly tender but retain their shape, and the liquid has evaporated.

Remove herb bouquet. Serve them as they are, or follow one of the suggestions at the end of the recipe.

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Instead of butter, you can use either coconut oil or olive oil to achieve the same results and keep this delicious recipe not just vegetarian, but also vegan friendly.

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A modern grill, like a George Foreman, will allow you to cook large batches of these vegetables, without crowding; which will create an unpleasant steamed effect.

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Sautéed mushrooms are lightly browned and don’t exude juice while being cooked. To achieve this, the butter must be very hot, the mushrooms must be dry, and not crowded in the pan.

SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS

2

10

6

SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

A 10 inch enameled skillet 2 Tb. butter 1 Tb. oil ½ Lb. fresh mushrooms, washed, well dried, left whole if small, sliced or quartered if large 1 to 2 Tb.. minced shallots or green onion

PREPARATION

Place the skillet over high heat with the butter and oil. As soon as you see that the butter foam has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add the mushrooms. Toss and shake the pan for 4 to 5 minutes.

During their sauté the mushrooms will at first absorb the fat. In 2 to 3 minutes the fat will reappear on their surface, and the mushrooms will begin to brown. As soon as they have browned lightly, remove from heat. § Toss the shallots or green onions with the mushrooms. Sauté over moderate heat for 2 minutes. § Sautéed mushrooms may be cooked in advance, set aside, then reheated when needed. Season to taste just before serving. § Use these mushrooms either as a vegetable alone or in a combination with other vegetables, or as an integral part of such dishes as, boeuf bourguignon, or braised onions.

Appetizers, Entrées and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

CARAMEL ALMOND CAKE ORANGE BAVAROIS LADY FINGERS

DESSERTS

50

desserts of the 1950’s During this decade there wasn’t much of a health craze; recipes were made for taste, which made dessert recipes extra delicious. § Meringue was a big business and recipes like Knickerbocker Glory or Baked Alaska featured it in a truly glorious form. § Gelatin’s easy moldability ­—it takes the shape of the container it’s poured into, and retains that shape after it cools— made it ideal for the wavy, curved contours of a Bundt cake pan or the myriad of pleasingly shaped molds that came into vogue in the 1950’s. § A veritable library of gelatin salad and dessert recipes were published, suspending everything from fruit, nuts and

marshmallows to various vegetables, meat products in shimmering towers and tumbling blocks of gelatin. § But with its steady popularity among creative dinner party hosts and design-savvy homemakers alike, it seems there’s room in every era for this lasting fad. § Unlike the unpalatable savory versions, the desserts were truly stellar. § Mainly featuring canned fruit, pineapple rings and whipped cream, many of these plates were quick and easy. § The bavarois, a more elevated french import was the perfect marriage of gelatin, bavarian cream and fresh fruit.

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SOME BELIEVE GELATIN WAS A STATUS SYMBOL, AS IT REQUIRED REFRIGERATION, AND REFRIGERATORS WEREN’T YET UBIQUITOUS.

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The spotlight has been on cupcakes, with the bijou creations popping up everywhere.

modern desserts In the last decade, the trend has been to new ways to reinvent older desserts.

A good example is the cupcakes in the 2000’s. Small and f luffy, colorful and couture or giant and covered in sprinkles, these mini, overly frosted sponges are still hanging around. § The 2000’s were also when science lab and kitchen collided, with Heston Blumenthal kick starting the obsession for liquid nitrogen everything. § All manner of puddings were frozen or set alight at the table and you weren’t anyone if you weren’t indulging in these danger-tinged desserts. § So far this decade has proven to be a real portmanteau paradise in the food world with recipe rebels fusing any two ingredients they can lay their hands on.

§ From cronuts and cruffins to cookies, cupcakes and duffins (doughnut and muffin), the craze for these sometimes monstrous Frakenpastries is still going strong. § However, that doesn’t mean we’ve forgotten our love of all things small and delicate. § Minute macaroons, available in every color and f lavour under the sun, are the antithesis of mutant desserts and have taken over from the cupcakes in the more fashionable circles.

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If the ladyfingers are not stale, dry them out for about an hour in a 200 degree oven. This will give them a crunchy taste that will compliment the cream.

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A cream is a custard filling into which beaten egg whites and a flavoring or fresh fruits are folded. It is spooned over ladyfingers or sponge-cake, then chilled. A cream makes a surprisingly attractive dessert.

CARAMEL ALMOND CREAM

6

SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

6 stale squares of sponge-cake or ladyfingers, about 1 1 /2 inches across and 1 /2 inch thick A 2-quart serving bowl about 4 inches deep 2 Tb.. rum mixed with 2 Tb. coffee 4 eggs, yolks and whites separated 1 Tb. and a 1 /3 cup granulated sugar 3 Tb. flour 2 1 /2 cups boiling milk 1 Tb.. vanilla extract 1 Tb.. butter Pinch of salt 3 Tb.. praline (caramelized almonds)

PREPARATION

Arrange the ladyfingers in the serving bowl.

Sprinkle with the rum and coffee. § Beat the egg yolks and the 1 /3 cup of sugar in a mixing bowl until they are pale yellow and form a ribbon. Beat in the flour. Then beat in the boiling milk by droplets. § Pour into a clean saucepan and, stirring with a wire whip, boil slowly for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and beat in the vanilla, then the butter. § Beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks are formed; sprinkle on the 1 Tb. of sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed. Mix in with cream. § Spoon into the serving bowl, over the ladyfingers and chill for 2 to 3 hours, or until serving time. Just before serving, sprinkle with praline.

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A Bavarois is a molded custard sauce with gelatin, beaten egg whites, lightly beaten cream, and a flavoring. It is unmolded after it has been chilled, and makes a dessert as beautiful to see as it is to eat.

ORANGE BAVAROIS

90

20

8-10 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

2 large, fine, bright-skinned oranges 2 large sugar lumps A 4 quart mixing bowl A measuring cup A strainer 1½ Tb.. (1½ packages) gelatin 7 egg yolks 1 cup granulated sugar 2 tsp. cornstarch 1½ cups boiling milk A 2-quart enameled saucepan A wooden spoon Optional: a candy thermometer 5 egg whites Pinch of salt 1 Tb.. granulated sugar A rubber spatula A bowl with a tray of ice cubes and water to cover ½ cup chilled whipping cream A 3-quart metal bowl 2 Tb.. orange liqueur Lightly oiled waxed paper A long, thin knife A chilled serving platter Peeled orange segments sprinkled with orange liqueur and sugar

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Another way to cool the Bavarois quickly is by using a modern freezer. Unlike their icy midcentury counterparts, a modern fridge will be able to cool this dessert in half the time!

PREPARATION

Wash and dry the oranges. One at a time, rub the sugar lumps over them until all sides of each lump are impregnated with orange oil. Mash the sugar lumps in the mixing bowl. Grate the orange part of the skins into the bowl. § Squeeze the juice of the oranges into the cup, to make ½ to ¾ cup of strained juice. Sprinkle the gelatin over the orange juice and set aside to soften. § Following the procedure for crème anglaise, add the egg yolks to the orange sugar in the mixing bowl. Gradually beat in the granulated sugar and continue beating for 2 to 3 minutes until mixture is pale yellow and forms the ribbon. Beat in the cornstarch. § Beat the milk in a thin stream of droplets into the egg yolk mixture. Pour into saucepan and set over moderate heat. Stir with wooden spoon until mixture thickens enough to coat the spoon lightly (170 degrees). Do not overheat or egg yolks will scramble. Remove from heat and immediately add the orange juice and gelatin mixture, beating for a moment or two until gelatin has dissolved

completely. Rinse out the mixing bowl and pour in the custard. § Beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks are formed; sprinkle on the sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed. Using the rubber spatula, fold the egg whites into the hot custard. Set over the ice. Fold delicately with spatula frequently while mixture is cooling, to keep it from separating. When cold and almost but not quite set, proceed with recipe. § Beat cream over the preceding bowl of ice until cream has doubled in volume and beater leaves faint traces on the surface.

Fold the whipped cream and orange liqueur into the custard. § Rinse mold in cold water and shake out excess. Turn the Bavarian cream into the mold. Cover with the waxed paper. Chill for 3 to 4 hours or overnight. § Remove waxed paper. Dip mold in very hot water for 1 second (a second or two longer for a porcelain mold) run knife around the edge of the cream, and reverse on a chilled serving platter. The Bavarois may be unmolded and refrigerated several hours before serving. § Serve surrounded with the orange segments.

Appetizers, Entrées and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

58

Instead of separating the eggs, beat them whole using a kitchen aid and warming them up to about 160°F over a water bath, helping them achieve better volume.

59

24-30

LADY FINGERS

LADYFINGERS

INGREDIENTS

Two 12- by 24 inch baking sheets 1 Tb.. softened butter A pastry bag with a round tube ½ inch opening 1½ cups powdered sugar in a sieve or a shaker 1 Tb.. and ½ cup granulated sugar 3 egg yolks and 3 egg whites 1 tsp. vanilla extract Pinch of salt ½ cup all-purpose flour, turned into a flour sifter

PREPARATION

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. § Butter baking sheets lightly, dust with f lour, and knock off excess; beat the sugar into the egg yolks, add the vanilla, and continue beating for several minutes until the mixture is thick, pale yellow, and forms a ribbon. § Beat the egg whites and salt together in a separate bowl until soft peaks are formed. Sprinkle on the sugar and beat until stiff peaks are formed. § Scoop one fourth of the egg whites over the top of the egg yolks and sugar mixture. Sift on one fourth of the flour, and delicately fold in until partially blended. § Then add one third of the remaining egg whites, sift on one third of the remaining flour, fold until partially blended, and repeat with half of each, then the last of each. § Scoop the batter into pastry bag.

Squeeze out even lines onto the prepared baking sheets, making finger shapes 4 inches long and 1½ inches wide, spaced 1 inch apart.§ Sprinkle with a 1/16 inch layer of powdered sugar. To dislodge some of the excess sugar, hold baking sheet upside down and then tap the back of it gently; the ladyfingers will not budge unless you are rough with them. § Bake in middle and upper third levels of preheated oven for about 20 minutes.

Appetizers, Entrées and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

60

LISTING OF TERMS

A

D

Aspic, 10, 22 Almond, 52

Dough, 26–30, 52–56

E B Bacon, 14 Butter, 14 Biscuits, 29 Bouef (Beef ), 36, 40 Bourguignon , 36, 40 Braised, 42 Bavarois, 54

Electric Mixer, 16 Eggs, 26–30

C

L

Camembert, 28 Cast Iron Skillet, 16 Cheese, 14–30

Lady Fingers, 56

F Fruits, 54

H Herb Bouquet, 14

Ain't that a Bite!: A Modern Twist on Vintage Fare

61

O

T

Onions, 40–42

Tamis, 16, 40

P

U

Pans, 16 Potatoes, 30

Unmolding, 54

R

Vanilla, 48–57 Vegetables, 32–47

V Roquefort, 24–27

S

W

Sauce, 40 Sauce Pan, 16 Sauté, 44 Sieve, 16 Stick, 30 Sugar, 48–57

Wine, 40

Appetizers, Entrées and Desserts of the 1950's with a modern day approach.

colophon TYPEFACES

The text is set in Sentinel, designed by Hoefler & Co. and issued digitally by Hoefler & Co. 611 Broadway, Room 725 New York, NY 10012-2608 USA. The headings are set in Franklin Gothic, designed by Morris Fuller Benton, first cut and cast by American Type Founders in 1902.

The decorative type is set in Sacramento, designed by Brian J. Bonislawsky and Jim Lyles of Stiggy and Sands in 2015 and issued digitally by Google fonts.

SOFTWARE

Adobe Creative Cloud, InDesign, Illustrator, Photoshop.

EQUIPMENT

27 inch iMac Canon Pixma iX6820

PAPER

Mohawk Via Smooth Warm White 100T Mohawk Via Smooth Warm White 100C

PUBLISHER

Penguin Random House (Fictitious book not actually published by Penguin Random House)

DESIGNER

Carmen Zagazeta

PHOTOGRAPHY

cookingwiththemasters.com

CONTENT

Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle & Simone Beck.

“Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume 1.”