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FOOD&LIFE Coming Thursday
‘SEX AND THE CITY 2’ A review of the sequel
WEDNESDAY MAY 26, 2010
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Online
Brined is better
MARVELOUS MAY FLOWERS
Recipe: peach-pepper pork chops D3
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TELEVISION
Viewers pick DVR at 10 p.m. By Meg James and Joe Flint LOS ANGELES TIMES
‘Meat’ your menu Fresh ideas for sauces, seasonings and patties serve as inspiration for burger time
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Not so long ago, the broadcast networks trumpeted their 10 p.m. series as “appointment viewing” — so designated for the slate of stylish, sophisticated dramas that commanded a rapt audience. Viewers these days are still watching at 10 but often not what the networks programmed for the time slot. Instead, they are increasingly playing back shows from their digital video recorders. “Essentially, the DVR has been like adding a whole new competitor to the time period,” said David Poltrack, chief research officer at CBS. “The new competitor is often our own programming.” Last week, the broadcast networks unveiled their fall schedules during flashy presentations for hundreds of advertisers in New York. The spring ritual, known as the “upfronts,” launches the annual sale of commercial time. And, for ABC, CBS and NBC, an improvement in their 10 p.m. performances during the 201011 season is considered a priority. Yet the challenges are great. More than 36 percent of TV households are equipped with DVRs, accelerating shifts in viewing patterns. At 10 p.m., almost 6 million
FROM LEFT: Italian Sausage Burger Spiced Chicken Burger Salmon Burger
FRED SQUILLANTE DISPATCH
See DVR Page D5
By Robin Davis
Building a better one
THE COLUMBUS DISPATCH
SHOW & TELL
emorial Day unofficially starts the grilling season — and, with May being National Hamburger Month, the time for burgers on the grill. Instead of serving plain-Jane beef burgers, which quickly turn boring, why not change the meat — and the spices — to produce exciting flavor combinations? We’ve come up with three ideas to get you started: Spiced Chicken Burgers with a mint-yogurt sauce, Italian Sausage Burgers topped with sauteed onions and peppers, and pretty Salmon Burgers with an herb-filled green-goddess dressing. Try them for holiday celebrations this weekend and throughout the summer months.
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Whether you use beef or another meat, heed a few simple tips to make your burgers the best: Don’t forget the fat, of which burgers need a certain amount for juiciness. With beef, choose ground chuck; with chicken or turkey, try a combination of light and dark meat. Crumble the meat into a bowl. Sprinkle it with the seasonings before gently mixing it with your hands. To prevent toughness, try not to knead the meat. Divide the
meat into equal balls; gently press them to the desired thickness. For better durability on the grill, put the burgers in the refrigerator for up to an hour. For safety, completely cook the burgers — especially those made with pork or poultry. Thoroughly wash hands and cooking utensils that touch raw meat. Sources: Epicurious.com, Get Grilling by Food Network Kitchens
robin.davis@dispatch.com
INSIDE: Recipes for Spiced Chicken Burgers, Italian Sausage Burgers and Salmon Burgers D3 A turkey-burger recipe in For the Gourmet D2
WILL SHIVELY
BalletMet Columbus dancer Dustin James in Simply Sammy
BalletMet at dance festival BalletMet Columbus will perform during the weekend as one of 30 American dance companies at a Midwestern dance festival in St. Louis. The troupe will share excerpts from Simply Sammy, a tribute to Sammy Davis Jr. — which had its premiere as part of the spring production of American Legends. Dance St. Louis and the Touhill Performing Arts Center at the University of Missouri-St. Louis will present the Spring to Dance Festival 2010 on Thursday through Saturday. For more information, visit www. springtodance.com.
Garden to host concerts The Jazz Arts Group will return to the Discovery District for a second season of outdoor “PBJ & Jazz” concerts. The summer series will begin See SHOW & TELL Page D4
WHAT’S UP
COOKBOOKS
AT THE KITCHEN
Suggestions for grilling vast, varied By Bonnie S. Benwick THE WASHINGTON POST
Food Editor Robin Davis will make Spiced Chicken Burgers With Yogurt Sauce (see recipe, Page D3) on 10TV News HD at noon today on WBNS-TV (Channel 10). Missed the segment? Find it at Dispatch Kitchen.com.
In a cookbook about grilling and barbecue, readers seeking fun with fire always find something to learn, too. What could be more appropriate for Memorial Day weekend? Here are some new books with distinct viewpoints — and, of course, mouthwatering recipes: BBQ 25 (HarperStudio, $19.99) by Adam Perry Lang, with 25 recipes With a hip, stripped-down narrative, the compact board book is designed more for beginners — with bulleted items. The recipes are basic and
“telestrated” with arrows from directions to photographs. Latin Grill: Sultry and Simple Food for Red-Hot Dinners and Parties (Chronicle, $19.95) by Rafael Palomino with Arlen Gargagliano, with 80-plus recipes The slim volume covers seviches
and sangrias, with lots of grill marks, along with citrus and cilantro, in between. The Kansas City Barbeque Society Cookbook: 25th Anniversary Edition (Andrews McMeel, See GRILLING Page D3
“I don’t work at a grocery store. D’Amico I work at Market District®.” Ben Product Development Chef Now hiring food lovers for a wide range of positions for our new location in Kingsdale.
Apply at careers.MarketDistrict.com
05-26-2010
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MarketDistrict.com Equal Opportunity Employer
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Editor’s note: The deadline to submit items for What’s Cooking is one week before the desired day of publication. Send details to: What’s Cooking, Food Department The Columbus Dispatch 34 S. 3rd St. Columbus, OH 43215 Or by fax .......................614-559-1754 Or e-mail ......robin.davis@dispatch.com
SHELF HELP Quick review of new products
WEDNESDAY, MAY 26, 2010
FROM THE COVER
CLASSES AND DEMONSTRATIONS
The Hills Market, 7860 Olentangy River Rd.: “Wine & Cheese Tasting: Spain” ($35), 6:30 p.m. Thursday; “Solera Imports” (prices vary), 5:30 to 9 p.m. Friday; Salmon Roast ($7.50 for salmon sandwich and coleslaw), 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Saturday; 614-846-3220 House Wine, 644 High St., Worthington: “Blends” ($15), 6 to 9 p.m. Thursday; 614-846-9463 La Chatelaine, 1555 W. Lane Ave., Upper Arlington: “European Wine Tour” ($20), 6:30 p.m. June 3, 614-4881911 — Compiled by Robin Davis
Food
RECIPES
The world of food and wine
TASTINGS AND DINNERS
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THE COLUMBUS DISPATCH
WHAT’S COOKING Classes require advance registration. Dorothy Lane Market’s School of Cooking, 6161 Far Hills Ave., Dayton: “Italian Cooking With Mario Rizzotti” ($50), 4 to 6 p.m. Friday; 937-4341294 or www.dorothylane.com Sur La Table, Easton Town Center: “Date Night: Spring in Provence” ($79), 6:30 p.m. Friday; “Cooking With Chilies” ($69), 6:30 p.m. Tuesday; 614-473-1211 or www.surlatable.com Williams-Sonoma, Polaris Fashion Place: “Memorial Day Recipes With Michael Symon’s Recipes” (free), 11 a.m. Sunday; 614-430-0118
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SPICED CHICKEN BURGERS WITH YOGURT SAUCE Makes 4 PER SERVING: 381 calories; 30 g Instead of a bun, try these burgers tucked into a pita pocket protein; 36 g carbohydrates; 2 g fiber; 12 g fat (4 g saturated); 101 mg cholesor wrapped in lavash. If you terol; 723 mg sodium don’t like spicy food, cut down on the cayenne pepper or eliminate it completely.
Burgers: 1 pound ground chicken 2 large egg whites, lightly beaten 1 ⁄2 cup plain dry bread crumbs 1 ⁄4 cup finely chopped green onions 1 ⁄4 cup chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 ⁄2 teaspoon salt plus extra for sprinkling 1 ⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 ⁄2 teaspoon ground coriander 1 ⁄4 teaspoon ground cumin Vegetable oil Yogurt sauce: 1 cup plain yogurt, preferably Greek style 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice Salt and pepper Toasted buns, pita bread or lavash Sliced cucumbers, lettuce leaves, tomatoes (optional) To make burgers: Preheat grill for medium-high heat. Combine chicken, egg whites, bread crumbs, onion, parsley, garlic powder, salt and spices. Using hands, mix until wellblended. Divide mixture into 4 equal portions. Gently shape each into a patty, about 1 inch thick each. Brush grill grates with oil. Place burgers on grill. Sprinkle lightly with additional salt. Cover grill. Cook 3 to 4 minutes. Turn burgers over. Cover. Cook until cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes longer. Meanwhile, prepare yogurt sauce: Stir yogurt, mint and lime juice together. Season with salt and pepper. Place burgers on buns or in pita. Drizzle with yogurt sauce. Top with lettuce, tomatoes and cucumbers, if desired.
SALMON BURGERS WITH GREEN GODDESS DRESSING Makes 4 These taste spring-y and light, with the beautifully herby Green Goddess dressing as a condiment. Use the leftover dressing on salads. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week.
Dressing: ⁄2 cup reduced-fat mayonnaise 1 ⁄2 cup reduced-fat sour cream 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 tablespoon capers, drained 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste Burgers: 1 pound skinless fresh salmon 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions (white and green parts) 1 ⁄4 cup dry bread crumbs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Vegetable oil Toasted hamburger buns Lettuce leaves (optional) 1
To make dressing: Combine all ingredients in blender or food processor. Pulse to combine. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. To make the burgers: Cut the salmon into large pieces. Combine a quarter of the salmon pieces with the mustard in a food processor. Process until the mixture is pasty. Add the remaining salmon pieces with the green onions. Pulse until the large pieces are somewhat combined into the paste mixture. Scrape the mixture into a bowl.
Stir bread crumbs into the salmon mixture. Season generously with salt and pepper. Divide mixture into 4 portions. Gently shape each into a patty, about 3⁄4-inch thick. Prepare grill for medium heat. Brush salmon burgers lightly with vegetable oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Place burgers on grill. Cook until golden brown and just cooked through, about 3 minutes a side. Serve burgers on buns with Green Goddess dressing (use about a tablespoon per serving). Garnish with lettuce, if desried. PER SERVING (with 1 tablespoon dressing): 336 calories; 78 g protein; 28 g carbohydrates; 1 g fiber; 11 g fat (2 g saturated); 66 mg cholesterol; 451 mg sodium
SAUSAGE BURGERS WITH PEPPERS AND ONIONS Makes 4 servings In this burger, we’ve taken the classic sausage, peppers and onions combo and turned it into a sandwich of a different kind.
Kraft gives its “blue box” macaroni and cheese a face-lift with this Homestyle line. The difference is primarily the preparation. Cooks boil the noodles, melt butter, then stir in a seasoning packet that’s mostly flour. Milk is added, and the sauce is cooked until thickened. Then the cook opens a foil packet with semiliquid cheese and stirs it in along with the noodles. To top it off: crunchy bread crumbs. The product comes in two flavors: Classic Cheddar and Old World Italian With Parmesan and Romano. They taste fine — not as artificial or neon orange as the powdery mac and cheese. My problem is this: Once you’ve melted the butter, stirred in the flour then added milk, you’ve already created a white sauce, the basis for any homemade cheese sauce. So why go add the cheese goo instead of freshly shredded cheese of your choice? And if you’re going to do that, why buy the mix at all? — Robin Davis Food editor
Preheat the grill for medium-high heat. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the peppers and onion. Saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato juice, cook until most of the liquid evaporates. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Form the sausage mixture into patties, about 4-inches in diameter. Brush lightly with oil. Place burgers on grill. Cover and cook until browned and cooked through, about 4 minutes a side. Top with provolone. Cover grill until cheese melts. Transfer burgers to buns. Top with onion and pepper mixture. PER SERVING: 426 calories; 30 g protein; 30 g carbohydrates; 3 g fiber; 59 mg cholesterol; 1,085 mg sodium
GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Wine review
Squeezed filling simplifies pasta By Alicia Ross with Beverly Mills UNITED FEATURE SYNDICATE
Pat Hoffmeister of Coppell, Texas, had a problem with her pasta. “Do you know an easy way to stuff manicotti?” she asked. “I’m always splitting them when I try.” To help Pat, we posted her question on our website, and Elise Legaspi of Oxnard, Calif., came swooping in with a terrific answer. “I put the filling in a gallon-size, zip-top plastic bag,” Elise said. “I snip off one of the corners and squeeze away.” Fill one side of the manicotti shell, Elise continued, and then turn it around and fill the other side. “This works like a charm for lots of things,” she said, “such as deviled eggs and cream puffs.” (You can also use a quart-size bag for a smaller recipe, like the one today.) Contact Desperation Dinners, c/o United Media, 200 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10016, or send e-mail to tellus@kitchenscoop.com. Or visit the Desperation Dinners website at www.kitchenscoop.com.
2008 Frascati Superiore by Fontana Candida ($8.99) This widely distributed brand of the Frascati wines of Roman fame has been significantly upgraded through the years. What was once a dry white wine meant for quaffing with simple summer fare is now fleshier, with a more complete aroma. But it’s still priced right, and the moderate alcohol level and food-friendly structure are preserved. This wine is available at both Andersons locations, Buehler’s in Delaware, Carfagna’s, Chateau Wine & Spirits, Corner’s Beverage, Crown Beer & Wine, Europia, Fresh Market, Gentile’s, Hausfrau Haven, the Hills Market, Huffman’s, Kenny Road Market, Ross’s IGA Granville, Sawmill Beverage, Sharon Square Wine Shop, Weiland’s, Wine & Cheese Emporium, the Winery and most Kroger and Giant Eagle stores. — Jon Christensen Dispatch wine reviewer jac@iwaynet.net
SPINACH MANICOTTI Makes 3 generous servings
⁄2 package manicotti shells (7 pieces) Nonstick cooking spray
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GRILLING FROM PAGE D1 $24.99) by Ardie A. Davis, Paul Kirk and Carolyn Wells; with 200-plus recipes The collection of recipes comes from the “cookers” association, begun in 1986. The book covers much more than the competitive categories of chicken, pork ribs, pork and beef brisket, and not everything is exposed to smoke or fire. Side dishes and desserts filed in the Boneyard chapter read like crowd pleasers.
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THE HEALTHY PLATE
LARRY CROWE ASSOCIATED PRESS
Grilled Pork Chops With Peach-Jalapeno Glaze
Brine holds moisture in meats, adds flavor By Jim Romanoff ASSOCIATED PRESS
1 teaspoon olive oil plus additional for brushing 2 green bell peppers, seeded, sliced 1 large onion, sliced 1 ⁄2 cup tomato juice Salt and pepper 1 pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, casings removed 4 slices provolone cheese 4 hamburger buns, toasted
DESPERATION DINNERS Kraft Homestyle Deluxe Macaroni & Cheese Dinner ($3.19 at Giant Eagle)
If you grill meat regularly, it’s worth considering ways to cut the fat but keep the flavor. Although the marbling of many meats can’t be cut away (and to keep things flavorful, you wouldn’t want it to be), trimming any visible fat from the exterior of the meat is an easy way to reduce your intake. With poultry, the same effect is achieved by removing the skin, which contains a large percentage of the bird’s fat. Now that you’ve cut the fat, it’s time to add flavor. Brines (salted water with seasonings) not only boost flavor, they also help keep meat moist (a problem with lean cuts) by drawing water into it. A basic brine can be made by dissolving 1⁄3 cup kosher salt and 1 ⁄3 cup sugar (white or brown) in a quart of water. Additional flavorings such as herbs, spices or even juices can be added. Always be sure your brine is ice cold (below 37 degrees) before adding the meat, then refrigerate everything during the soak. The process makes meats and poultry saltier but not as much as you think. Tests done by Cook’s Illustrated magazine have shown that meats and poultry brined for up to an hour absorb about 250 to 350 milligrams of sodium (about 1 ⁄8 teaspoon) per serving. If you’re watching your sodium intake, you can put less salt in the brine. And, in all instances, the meat should be rinsed (which washes away some salt) and dried before grilling. Of course, there’s no need to season with any additional salt, either. These juicy grilled pork chops with peach-jalapeno glaze get a quick flavor brine in a simple kosher-salt-and-brown-sugar solution. Be sure to brush the chops with the glaze only during the final minutes of grilling. Otherwise, the glaze will burn.
GRILLED PORK CHOPS WITH PEACH-JALAPENO GLAZE Makes 4 servings
⁄4 cup kosher salt ⁄4 cup packed light brown sugar 2 cups boiling water 3 cups ice cubes 4 boneless center cut pork loin chops, trimmed of fat 2 teaspoons chili powder 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 ⁄2 cup peach preserves 2 tablespoons lime juice 1 large or 2 small jalapenos, minced but not seeded 1 ⁄4 teaspoon ground pepper 1 1
ALICIA ROSS UNITED FEATURE SYNDICATE
Spinach Manicotti
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 ⁄4 cup finely diced onion 2 cups firmly packed baby spinach leaves 1 garlic clove 8 ounces part-skim ricotta cheese 1 large egg 1 cup prepared tomato-based pasta sauce of choice 1 ⁄2 cup shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese Cook the manicotti shells in a pot of boiling water until tender but still firm to bite. Drain. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a small casserole dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, spinach and garlic. Stir until the spinach wilts, about
Planet Barbecue! An Electrifying Journey Around the World’s Barbecue Trail (Workman, $22.95) by Steven Raichlen, with 309 recipes The hardest-working grill master with signature tongs seems not to have missed a trick. Profiles of significant chefs and home cooks who grill are woven among recipes, tips and sidebars on must-try restaurants. The goat dishes look especially intriguing. The Art of Wood Fired Cooking (Gibbs Smith, $19.99) by Andrea Mugnaini, with 97 recipes The author has spent two decades teaching people how to
05-26-2010
2 minutes. Remove from heat. In a medium bowl, combine the spinach mixture, ricotta cheese and egg. Mix well. Scrape the cheese mixture into a quart-size, zip-top plastic bag. Cut one corner off the bag to make a small diagonal slit. Using the bag like a pastry bag, squirt the cheese mixture into both sides of each manicotti shell until filled. Repeat with each shell. Place the filled shells into prepared casserole dish. Top with pasta sauce and mozzarella cheese. Bake 10 minutes or until heated through and beginning to bubble along edges. PER SHELL: 181 calories; 10 g protein; 18 g carbohydrates; 2 g fiber; 8 g fat (3 g saturated); 45 mg cholesterol; 263 mg sodium
manage the intense heat and variable temperature zones of her medium. The recipes are mostly Italian and boldly flavored. Veggie Burgers Every Which Way (the Experiment, $16.95, due in July) by Lukas Volger, with 30-plus recipes The small volume has a big mission: to raise the flavor profile of the particular vegetarian genre. The reach goes beyond beans to include spinach-chickpea burgers, curried-eggplant-andtomato burgers, corn-bread buns and rutabaga fries.
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In a medium bowl, combine the salt and brown sugar. Add the boiling water and stir to dissolve. Add the ice cubes and stir to cool. Add the pork chops. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to an hour. Meanwhile, make the glaze. In a small saucepan over low heat, stir the chili powder and cumin until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Add the peach preserves, lime juice and jalapenos. Stir well. Prepare a grill for medium heat. Oil the grill grates. Remove the pork chops from the brine, rinse well and blot dry with paper towels. Season both sides of the pork with ground black pepper. Grill the pork chops, turning once, until an instant thermometer inserted at the center registers 145 degrees, 2 to 4 minutes a side. Brush both sides of the chops with the reserved glaze, and grill, turning once, for 90 seconds more. Serve with additional peach-jalapeno glaze on the side. PER SERVING: 298 calories; 21 g protein; 30 g carbohydrates; 0 fiber; 11 g fat (4 g saturated); 58 mg cholesterol; 927 mg sodium