CSM Time 12 - Time To Show Off

csm time to

OFF

SHOW

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

HELLO Welcome to a special degree show issue of CSM Time … to show off!

We’ve been at our new King’s Cross home for almost a year now, and to cap that first year we’ll be hosting our degree shows under one roof for the very first time.

What a fabulous opportunity it is to show off our students’ work and our building.

We’ve already staged our first fashion show in the Crossing (see p18). And did you know we picked up the silver medal for our creative contributions to London 2012 (see p24)?

Also in this issue we bid a fond farewell to Professor Jane Rapley OBE, who retires as Head of College this summer (see p4).

On behalf of all CSM staff and students we thank Jane for her dedication, guidance and loyalty.

Have a wonderful degree show time.

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STARTING OVER—4 BUILDING OF THE YEAR—6 THE GREAT BRITISH PUBLIC—7 MA FINE ART—8 AWARD FOR FRESH CREATIVE TALENT—11 QUIRKY & PROVOCATIVE—12 Check out where our students

will be showing their work—14 TALKING CREST—16 bicycle animation—17 BA FASHION—18 DRAMA CENTRE LONDON—20 STRESS relief—21 100 YEARS OF FASHION—22 GAMES ON!—24 Fit. london 2012—26 DESIGN & EMOTION… OUT OF CONTROL—29 BACK CATALOGUE—30

csm time to show off issue 12 summer 2012

CSM Time is produced by Marketing and Communications editor@csm.arts.ac.uk in association with Rhombus Writers, and designed by Paulus M Dreibholz (alumnus and associate lecturer) and Daniel McGhee (alumnus). © 2012 Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design unless otherwise indicated. We have made all efforts to credit images correctly. Please contact us if we have omitted to credit or miscredited an image – amendments will be made in subsequent issues.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

STARTING OVER

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As she prepares to step down from college life, Jane Rapley talks to Drusilla Beyfus about new beginnings

‘I want to go back to one of the things I loved – making things with my hands’ Dean of Fashion and Textile Design Anne Smith presenting Prof Jane Rapley OBE with a bouquet on behalf of BA Fashion at this year’s fashion show in The Crossing

What a year it’s been for Jane Rapley, Head of College. It began with the great remove to the new campus at King’s Cross, and ends with Jane’s departure from full-time education.

When I caught up with her recently she put it another way, judging the past year ‘terrific, horrific’. Whatever her ambivalent personal reactions, UAL rector Nigel Carrington surely scored a tick in the ‘terrific’ box in his tribute to Jane when he announced her retirement earlier in the year. Nigel commented that, under Jane’s leadership, ‘changes in art and design education generally had been successfully navigated at CSM, at the same time as the constituent parts of the college had been brought together at its new home’.

Among Jane’s highs for the year is the completion of the Stanton Williams campus at King’s Cross, and its warm public reception. For one usually measured in her compliments she readily admits to its ‘wow’ factor. Rewards close to her professional heart include the new opportunities that await students and staff. In retrospect,

however, what strikes her about the whole ‘starting over’ experience is its burden of responsibilities. ‘I felt very strongly and emotionally,’ she says, ‘about being part of efforts to preserve what people had put into creating CSM’s core identities, while enabling the College to go on changing.’

I asked if she believed that, on balance, her efforts had worked. Her reply? ‘Up to a point.’

Was there anything she wished she’d done differently? ‘Loads,’ she says, ‘but not at the time.’ Second thoughts have led to reappraisals of certain aspects of the distribution of space. ‘The most difficult issue then and now was how we allowed the space to support our activities. We made the decision we were about making and doing.

In other words, we would support our workshops. We thought students and staff members were inventive about using other sorts of spaces, but the thing they couldn’t be inventive about was access to technologies, whether sophisticated or basic, such as within our three-dimensional workshops.

These workshops have become a magnet for students, which may be because they haven’t got many alternative spaces. We need to increase the space in one way or the other.’

The mammoth task of overseeing the move to King’s Cross has been a learning curve for Jane. Human nature’s resistance to change is part of the story. ‘The problem lies less with the students because they are here to change.

Our staff spend their time changing other people’s lives, but try and change them!’

Her eyebrows are raised. ‘Not everybody, of course.’ However, she explains that such resistance has her sympathy. She recognises that that for long years people found ways of dealing with constraints and had got things under control within the limits they had. Then they were faced with new limits and had to get to grips with them in a matter of weeks.

‘People do get terribly melodramatic in this building,’ Jane adds. Because of the scale and complexity of the changes planned and the possible psychological effects, CSM had

consulted an adviser who had worked on the move and development of University College Hospital. The words of advice were communication, communication, communication – you can’t do too much of it. Explaining she was in agreement with this approach, Jane adds a caveat. ‘It’s not just about giving information. It’s about having it listened to, and it’s also about perceiving.

Given the nature of this organisation, many people aren’t necessarily absorbing what communication is out there – or if they are, they translate it into Chinese whispers.

We’re a very imaginative bunch, and can happily turn three words into five.’

Among developments Jane wishes had progressed further is the overhaul of the management structure of the College – a change in keeping with new thinking across the University. ‘It’s a matter of people in new roles, in different relationships, in different ‘families’. What has changed is that these families aren’t based entirely on course.

We’ve centralised our student registry and

our finance, plus the management of our course support. In that instance certain long established relationships – some good, some bad – have been ruptured. It means we’ve lost a lot of tacit knowledge of the kind that oils the wheels, and there’s a great deal of relearning to do.’ Explaining the underlying aim, Jane says: ‘We were looking to achieve consistency of strengths across the whole range of our courses. We wanted a fairer distribution of support, and I’m not sure we’ve quite got that yet.’

What will Jane be up to after she leaves her post in July? Her plans reflect her belief in making and doing – CSM’s precepts. From a personal viewpoint, she intends to return to being a part-time student. ‘I want to go back to one of the things I loved and why I went to art school – making things with my hands’.

She’s hoping to have continued staff access to short courses at the University. ‘I’d like to learn new methods and re-practise drawing.’

Professionally, among possibilities she’s considering are some interesting invitations

to communicate her ideas on organising creative education. Leaving CSM will be an emotional experience for her after two decades of, as she puts it, ‘loving and hating the place’. She guesses it might take a couple of years before she gets it out of her bloodstream.

Drusilla Beyfus was a Senior Lecturer on our Fashion Communication with Promotion pathway for 19 years.

A former features editor at Vogue, she contributes regularly to the Telegraph Magazine and continues to work closely with CSM on special projects.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

THE GREAT BRITISH PUBLIC The talk, part of this year’s London Festival of Photography, is a rare opportunity to hear four of our best-loved and most respected reportage specialists speak about what they do best.

BUILDING OF THE YEAR

Peter Dench is an English photographer based in London. His solo exhibitions include LoveUK and England Uncensored. Liz Hingley is currently artist in residence at the Migration Research Unit based at University College London.

A giant building, yet respectful and dignified

CSM’s new King’s Cross home, designed by architects Stanton Williams, has won ‘Building of the Year’ at the annual AJ100 Awards in London. The award, made in association with Philips, is for ‘quite simply the finest building to be completed by an AJ100 practice in the past year’.

shout too loudly, and enhances the buildings around it. The detailing is elegant, but it’s most successful in navigating its context.

A giant building, yet respectful and dignified.’

The AJ100 is a list of top practices in the UK (measured by the number of architects employed) as compiled by the AJ, the voice The Stanton Williams master plan for the new of architecture in Britain.

35,000 m2 campus saw off stiff competition The CSM building has won a clutch of other from a national shortlist of eight prestigious first prizes for Stanton Williams in 2012, projects. including World Architecture News Education Award, AIA UK Excellence in Design Award, Commenting on CSM’s site, the judges said: and Building Awards Public Building of the ‘Although a very large building, it doesn’t

Year. Building and architects were also shortlisted for the LABC London Building Excellence Awards in the Best Education Project slot.

So far in 2012, site constructor Argent has won the Mayor’s Award for Planning Excellence and the RICS Awards London (Regeneration Category) for the CSM campus.

Building and builder were runners-up together in the RICS Awards London (Building Conservation Category).

© Arnhel de Serra. The New Forest and Hampshire County Show 2004

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© Arnhel de Serra. The East of England Country Show 2006

Love photography?

Join top snappers Chris Steele-Perkins, Homer Sykes, Peter Dench and Liz Hingley at CSM for a lively and fascinating discussion of the works they’re showing in The Great British Public exhibition

Magnum legend Chris Steele-Perkins has won a string of awards including the Tom Hopkinson Prize for British Photojournalism and the Robert Capa Gold Medal. Homer Sykes, who taught the documentary photography MA at LCC, has work in major collections including the British Council’s and the V&A’s.

Public, and over 30 events encompassing documentary, street and conceptual photography. This year, the festival has chosen King’s Cross as its hub.

Now in its second successful year, the London Festival of Photography features 18 exhibitions, including The Great British

www.lfph.org

The Great British Public talk is at Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design on 25 June 2102.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

MA FINE ART In May the MA Fine Art interim show, hosted by the V22 gallery in Bermondsey, offered students a challenging but exciting opportunity to exhibit their developing practice publicly at the half-way point of their course Organisation of the show is led by a student committee that takes responsibility for all aspects of staging the off-site exhibition of work by the full cohort of year 1 MA Fine Art students. Teaching staff members offer advice and support as needed.

The critiques also allow teaching staff to offer advice in these areas as they apply to the work of individual students, identifying strengths and weaknesses in order to consolidate or improve academic and professional performance.

It’s a valuable exercise for all concerned because the issues that arise from presenting this kind of show mirror issues faced by students in professional visual arts contexts after graduating.

This is the first year of the new MA Fine Art course in its 2-year extended study mode.

It’s also the first time the interim show has been held in the cavernous interior of a former biscuit factory in Bermondsey!

The interim exhibition is followed by a series of studio critiques that enable student groups to evaluate the whole experience and to explore the knowledge gained from curating, installing and promoting their artworks in the public realm.

Our event coincided with the launch of V22’s Summer Club featuring 54 days of collaborative arts happenings. It was great timing from our point of view – V22 had included a pop-up cinema, which meant our students were able to present films to a wider audience.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

AWARD FOR FRESH CREATIVE TALENT

‘Operation Christmas’ by Lowe SSP3 Colombia

‘Pleasure Hunt’ online gaming by Lowe Brindfors Stockholm for Magnum ice cream

Global ad agency Lowe and Partners will sponsor CSM’s 2012 degree shows while renewing a commitment to Nova – the Lowe and Partners Award for Fresh Creative Talent

‘Noah’s Ark’ by Lowe Buenos Aires for Lynx deodorant

The Nova Awards, now in their second year, invite a panel of expert judges to select a winner plus two runners-up from a shortlist of 20 exceptional students representing the full spectrum of CSM degree show courses and disciplines.

Having created the Nova Awards in 2011, Lowe and Partners views the related opportunity to sponsor this year’s degree shows as a natural strengthening of its ties with the College.

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As a major player in a fast-moving industry whose principal currency is creativity, the agency recognises the role and value of Central Saint Martins in nurturing tomorrow’s talent.

Says Zoe Lazarus, Creative Director, Nova Awards, Lowe and Partners: ‘Our business is driven by innovation and brave thinking, and that’s exactly what we see at Central Saint Martins. So it’s really an ideal meeting of minds.’

The partnership, explains Zoe, works for Lowe on many levels, helping several thousand staff stay in touch with cutting edge arts and design. ‘It gives us a chance,’ she adds, ‘to experience raw creative talent without the commercial restraints within which we often have to work.’

Lowe and Partners is a global network of agencies, rich in local culture, offering both scale and intimacy. Clients include Unilever, Microsoft and Saab. Ad campaigns by Lowe scooped three Yellow Pencils, the industry’s top accolades, at this year’s D&AD Awards.

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ALEX LANDRUM AND SUSAN TRANGMAR SENIOR LECTURER, MA FINE ART AND READER, SCHOOL OF ART CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ARTS & DESIGN

‘THERE IS NO PLAN’

ACTICE

LLERY

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

QUIRKY & PROVOCATIVE

Euston Road Underpass Billboard

EXHIBITING COURSES BA (HONOURS) ARCHITECTURE: SPACES & OBJECTS

HELEN INGRAM TUTOR, LETTERPRESS AND GRAPHIC DESIGN CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ARTS & DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) CERAMIC DESIGN BA (HONOURS) CRITICISM, COMMUNICATION & CURATION: ARTS & DESIGN BA (HONOURS) FASHION BA (HONOURS) FINE ART BA (HONOURS) GRAPHIC DESIGN BA (HONOURS) JEWELLERY DESIGN BA (HONOURS) PERFORMANCE DESIGN & PRACTICE BA (HONOURS) PRODUCT DESIGN BA (HONOURS) TEXTILE DESIGN GRADUATE DIPLOMA IN FASHION MA COMMUNICATION DESIGN

‘An art school has to be a mixture of a monastery, a pub, and a sweatshop’ Invitations use quotes from CSM staff and students

Third-year BA Graphic Design students Katherine Goodridge, Krista Radoeva and Agostino Carrea have won a CSM competition to create signage and literature for the first ever degree shows held in our landmark new building The competition brief, which covered invitations, posters and banners for both print and digital platforms, targeted our primary degree show audiences imcluding press, collectors, alumni, VIPs, and family and friends.

Tone and style requirements included imagery that celebrated our new site while reflecting our ongoing degree show brand values – quirky, provocative and rebellious.

The winning team started by exploring the ideas and attitudes prevalent when we first moved into the building. Is it a sterile space?

Does it look like an art school? Is it a place for making?

‘The major challenge,’ recalls Krista, ‘was to arrive at an identity that acknowledges the wide range of courses we offer using a strong voice that represents us all.’

EXHIBITING COURSES

MA CREATIVE PRACTICE FOR NARRATIVE ENVIRONMENTS MA DESIGN: CERAMICS, FURNITURE OR JEWELLERY MA INDUSTRIAL DESIGN MA INNOVATION MANAGEMENT MA TEXTILE FUTURES BA (HONOURS) ACTING – DRAMA CENTRE LONDON BA (HONOURS) DIRECTING – DRAMA CENTRE LONDON Please visit www.csm.arts.ac.uk/drama for performance details and how to obtain a ticket. Please note that this invite does not give you access to performances.

The following courses exhibit off schedule: MA Applied Imagination in the Creative Industries, MA Fashion, MA Fine Art, and MA Performance Design and Practice.

For more information please visit www.csm.arts.ac.uk

Posters sent to top 40 feeder colleges EXHIBITING COURSES

JANE LEE

PROGRAMME DIRECTOR, BA FINE ART BA (HONOURS) ARCHITECTURE: SPACES & OBJECTS

‘It was important,’ adds Katherine, ‘to consider the degree shows not simply as a finite event but as a culmination of the creative process that happens in the building.’

CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OFSPACES ARTS &&DESIGN BA (HONOURS) ARCHITECTURE: OBJECTS

BA (HONOURS) CERAMIC DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) CERAMIC DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) CRITICISM, COMMUNICATION & CURATION: ARTS & DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) CRITICISM, COMMUNICATION & CURATION: ARTS & DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) FASHION

BA (HONOURS) FASHION

BA (HONOURS) FINE ART

BA (HONOURS) FINE ART

BA (HONOURS) GRAPHIC DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) GRAPHIC DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) JEWELLERY DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) JEWELLERY DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) PERFORMANCE DESIGN & PRACTICE

BA (HONOURS) PERFORMANCE DESIGN & PRACTICE

BA (HONOURS) PRODUCT DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) PRODUCT DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) TEXTILE DESIGN

BA (HONOURS) TEXTILE DESIGN

GRADUATE DIPLOMA IN FASHION

GRADUATE DIPLOMA IN FASHION

MA COMMUNICATION DESIGN

MA COMMUNICATION DESIGN

MA CREATIVE PRACTICE FOR NARRATIVE ENVIRONMENTS

MA CREATIVE PRACTICE FOR NARRATIVE ENVIRONMENTS

MA DESIGN: CERAMICS, FURNITURE OR JEWELLERY

MA DESIGN: CERAMICS, FURNITURE OR JEWELLERY

MA INDUSTRIAL DESIGN

MA INDUSTRIAL DESIGN

MA INNOVATION MANAGEMENT

MA INNOVATION MANAGEMENT

MA TEXTILE FUTURES

MA TEXTILE FUTURES

BA (HONOURS) ACTING – DRAMA CENTRE LONDON

BA (HONOURS) ACTING – DRAMA CENTRE LONDON

BA (HONOURS) DIRECTING – DRAMA CENTRE LONDON

BA (HONOURS) DIRECTING – DRAMA CENTRE LONDON

Please visit www.csm.arts.ac.uk/drama for performance details and how to obtain a ticket. Please note that this invite does not give you access to performances.

Please visit www.csm.arts.ac.uk/drama for performance details and how to obtain a ticket. Please note that this invite does not give you access to performances.

The following courses exhibit off schedule: MA Applied Imagination in the Creative Industries, MA Fashion, MA Fine Art, and MA Performance Design and Practice.

For more information please visit www.csm.arts.ac.uk

The following courses exhibit off schedule: MA Applied Imagination in the Creative Industries, MA Fashion, MA Fine Art, and MA Performance Design and Practice.

For more information please visit www.csm.arts.ac.uk

Says Agostino: ‘When we heard we’d won we were happy and scared at the same time.

None of us has delivered a project on this kind of scale before. There were so many practicalities to think about, and we’ve learned a huge amount along the way.’

‘You can’t define it, but it’s there, and you’ll only ever recognise it when you see it’

ALEX HOOK STUDENT, BA (HONOURS) GRAPHIC DESIGN CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS COLLEGE OF ARTS & DESIGN

‘BE BRAVE AND DO WHAT YOU LOVE’

‘We really do give a shit, some of us just dress well at the same time’ The Spire, Western Avenue Billboard

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

Check out where our students will be showing their work

Private view Thursday 14 June, 6 – 11pm (last entry 10pm)

By INVITATION only Public opening times: Friday 15 June, 12 – 8pm Saturday 16 June, 12 – 6pm (Sunday 17 June, closed) Monday 18 – Wednesday 20 June, 12 – 8pm Thursday 21 June, 12 – 6pm (last entry 30 minutes prior to closing time)

1ST FLOOR

2ND FLOOR

For more information on venues, times and dates, please visit our website. www.csm.arts.ac.uk/ degree-shows-2012

GROUND FLOOR

3RD FLOOR

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

TALKING CREST A team of students from Central Saint Martins will host a free event on 16 June at 6.30 pm in celebration of King’s Cross and its diverse communities.

A joint initiative by MA Creative Practice for Narrative Environments and BA Graphic Design, the Talking Crest event celebrates the area and its people though a series of vibrant community-led processions and a live performance in Granary Square.

The project is the brainchild of CSM students Sara Angelucci, Alex Augustus, Mia Frances Kennedy, Seung Youn Lee, Leticia Lozano, Radha Mistry and Rebecca Wood.

A workshop in May brought College and community together for a fun day of fabric stencilling and other creative activities designed to help set the tone and style of the June event.

Come and get involved. Start discovering (or rediscovering) the area, take part in our colourful parades, and enjoy the live finale just a stone’s throw from Regent’s Canal at Granary Square. www.talkingcrest.co.uk

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

Bicycle Animation

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Katy Beveridge’s amazing degree show interactive exhibition The Bicycle Animation, realised with CSM product design input, lets us share the magic of animation by mounting a static bike and then pedalling.

Inspired by early zoetropes (revolving cylinders that used light projected through slits to set static images in motion), the project deploys a camera, a lamp and the wheels of the bike to create a looping animation projected onto a wall or screen.

The pace of the pictorial narrative is determined by how fast the bike is ‘ridden’.

With over one million YouTube hits in a month and some high-profile exposure on choice news and media websites, the Bicycle Animation is already a trending topic and award-winner.

See Katy’s bicycle animation in The foyer at King’s Cross at the degree shows.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

BA FASHION The BA Fashion press show was held in the new King’s Cross building for the first time and the designers didn’t let down the new surroundings. With collections inspired by flowerpot men, cats and the new campus, such diversity made for a colourful and emotional show.

‘What I love about this year’s winning collections is that all of them had a very urban, clean feel to them. It’s a really good cross-section of all the students’ work.’

All we can say now is ‘watch this space’.

The L’Oreal Professionel Young Designer of the Year Award was given to Erin Hawkes, whose casual combination of skate shorts, oversized denim and worker jackets, were inspired by the influx of builders at King’s Cross, worked well juxtaposed against her floppy nun-like headpieces.

It’s a really good selection of all the students’ work Erin Hawkes

First runner-up, Alan Lee, picked up the prize for his minimal sportswear-inspired collection, which layered long casual dresses and jackets into an elegant silhouette.

With hints of a metallic sheen, Lee demonstrated how a sleek and sophisticated look can still be covetable and wearable.

Meanwhile Knitwear student Serena Gili won the second runner-up award. Her unforgettable collection, which juxtaposed her intricate hand beading with solid rounded skirts, was solemn and otherworldly.

‘While Serena’s collection was very lyrical, the others made me want to get up and dance,’ Course Director Willie Walters said.

Alan Lee

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Serena Gili

Written by Rachel Hardwick, 2nd year student Fashion Communication with Promotion

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

DRAMA CENTRE LONDON

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STRESS RELIEF BA Acting students at CSM have staged a degree show production of ‘The Last Days of Judas Iscariot’ by award-winning American playwright Stephen Adly Guirgis With director Michael Longhurst (Jerwood Directors Award 2007) at the helm, the play enjoyed a successful three-day run in May at the new Centre for Performance’s Platform Theatre. Set and costume design was by Amy Cook. Lighting design was by Tim Deiling.

Invited to find a large-cast piece to direct at Drama Centre, Michael thought immediately of Stephen’s work. The Last Days of Judas Iscariot – with its parade of street-talking sinners, saints and celestial superstars – seemed to offer too vibrant an opportunity to miss,’ he says.

First staged in New York with direction by Philip Seymour Hoffman and premiered here by the Almeida in 2008, Last Days is a profound, profane, and deeply personal exploration of faith and forgiveness that examines the fate of one of the most reviled men in history.

Says Michael: ‘Drama Centre London’s students were a pleasure to work with.

Their fearless commitment to craft is admirable, and I wish them the very best as they enter our profession.’

We all know how tough it can be moving home.

And, boy, have we moved home! Here’s a reminder of the support on offer to help us all cope with change Major upheaval – of the kind associated with our King’s Cross move and the restructuring of the College – is bound to place staff under pressure. That’s why CSM has put in place a coherent programme to minimise the effect of stress levels that are inevitable in these circumstances.

On hand was the head of the employee assistance programme retained by UAL to support staff (PPC online). She met some 50 CSM colleagues and distributed leaflets explaining services on offer free to all. Staff members were also offered six days during which specialist counselling was available in Following our move, we put in place a further one-to-one sessions designed to elleviate stress. The PPC counselling service for staff support programme to help staff cope with is available 24/7. change.

In the year before we moved we launched an extensive programme of change management training. Open to all staff members, it was designed to facilitate the process of transition to our new building and new structures and prepare staff for this major change.

© Paul Cochrane. BA (Hons) Acting 3rd year students, cast of ‘The Last Days of Judas Iscariot’

Our Wellbeing Day gave colleagues a chance to have a medical check, to talk to a nurse about health issues, to consult nutritionists about eating, drinking and exercising to combat stress, and to attend sessions on stress management, better sleep, and a healthy heart.

We’re aware of the pressures inherent in our move to a new building, and in the changed roles taken up by significant numbers of colleagues. Staff members who feel they’re being placed under undue stress should discuss this with their line manager in the first instance.

With the opening in June of Granary Square and hopefully the onset of some decent summer weather, the canal-side attractions of our site should tempt us increasingly to get out and relax a bit. After moving house, it’s nice to pop out into the garden.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

100 YEARS OF FASHION

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Cally Blackman’s latest book turns the spotlight on fashion’s most exciting era

Published in May by Laurence King, 100 Years of Fashion brings together iconic images and a fascinating commentary to tell the story of fashion’s most compelling age – from 1900 to today. Why, though, the last one hundred years?

More than any previous era, the last century saw a transformation in women’s fashion, with the restrictive corsetry of the early 20th century giving way to looser styles, including those made fashionable by French designer Paul Poiret. As women’s lives changed dramatically under the shadow of two world wars, so their clothing altered beyond recognition.

Queen Elizabeth II has reigned for much of this dynamic period in fashion history.

Having come to the throne during the golden age of couture, which began in 1947 with Dior’s ‘New Look’, she witnessed the end of wartime austerity and the birth of a new era in dressing. From the start of her reign, as this book recognises, women have looked to the monarch for fashion inspiration.

During her life, the Queen has seen fashion shift from home dressmaking to couture and mass manufacture, taking in the irresistible rise of the teenager along the way. A modern dresser, Her Majesty is adept at mixing couture with less expensive garments from

mid-range manufacturers. For her 1954 Commonwealth tour, for example, she teamed Hartnell and Amies with a summery cotton frock available from Horrockses for just five pounds.

As the spotlight falls on London for the Diamond Jubilee and 2012 Olympics, Cally Blackman shows how the ‘London look’ has influenced fashion over the last century.

The author discusses themes including Bloomsbury, punk, and Swinging London, showcasing photographs of fashion icons like Twiggy, Mary Quant and Vivienne Westwood.

Cally Blackman is an associate lecturer on CSM’s BA Fashion course. Her previous publications include 100 Years of Menswear, 100 Years of Fashion Illustration, Costume: From 1500 to the Present Day, and The 20s and 30s: Flappers and Vamps.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

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THE MUSICAL TORCH

GAMES ON!

MA Creative Practice for Narrative Environments students at CSM have collaborated with Kings Place, three Islington schools, and award-winning chamber orchestra the Academy of St Martin in the Fields to create The Musical Torch for the Cultural Olympiad.

Inspired by the idea of the Olympic torch, CSM’s Elisa Magnini, Alexander Schnell Sramek, Amy Wallace, Kevin Yeo and Seung Youn Lee worked with Academy musicians to devise a series of workshops for the children exploring music and art through a game of Chinese whispers.

Each class created a piece of music together and then cast a set of unique hand sculptures in a signature colour. The music passed from one class to the next in a chain of inspiration, with the results on show as a playful installation at Kings Place during March.

Musical Torch

Martin Richman

PRIZE-WINNING WAYS Back in May, Central Saint Martins hosted a celebration of UAL’s successful engagement – via a wide range of cross-disciplinary projects – with London 2012.

CSM contribution boosts UAL’s award-winning engagement with London 2012 ART AT THE OLYMPICS

UP AND RUNNING

One Whirl by CSM alumnus Martin Richman has won an Olympic Delivery Authority competition to incorporate an art commission into one of the new walkways at the Olympic Park.

Sophie Hirsch, a final-year BA Jewellery Design student at Central Saint Martins, is one of six UAL students chosen to represent the University as a London 2012 official torchbearer.

Staff, students and alumni who worked on an eclectic mix of Olympics projects had their reward when UAL’s London 2012 programme won the silver medal for Creative Cultural Project at the Podium Awards announced in early May.

Martin’s successful artwork concept, which is inspired by the energy of the Games, will be seen on a bridge near the Velodrome and on the walls and ceiling of an underpass that allows visitors to cross the A12 road.

Course Leader Caroline Broadhead nominated Sophie with the citation: ‘Her work is already of professional quality and we expect her to make a strong showing in the world of jewellery when she launches her career.’

Podium is the FE and HE unit for London 2012. The award recognises the contribution made by the whole UAL community, commending our superlative creative engagement with the Games.

Hackney-based Martin, who studied fine art at Central Saint Martins from 1988 to 1991, had an earlier career as a lighting designer in the music industry working with legendary acts including Jimi Hendrix and Pink Floyd.

Sophie’s leg of the torchbearer route takes in a patch of South Kensington in London during the final stages of the relay. ‘It’s obviously an honour,’ she says, ‘and a once-ina-lifetime thing. My family is pretty excited by it all!’

From Team GB’s kit (designed by alumna Stella McCartney) to the Paralympic medals, the creative contributions of our university community are woven into the fabric of the impending Games.

The event at CSM was an opportunity to celebrate with staff, students and alumni.

It was also a chance to communicate with project partners like the RSC and the BBC with a view to building legacy relationships that foster new engagements through research or student practice.

Currently up to her neck in degree show preparations, Sophie is also working hard to get her website up and running. ‘It’s all a bit hectic at the moment,’ she admits. www.sophiealicehirsch.com

STRICTLY SHAKESPEARE First-year MA Communication Design students at Central Saint Martins have contributed to the RSC’s ambitious Shakespeare Festival, a flagship strand of the upcoming Cultural Olympiad.

For the myShakespeare project, CSM students were invited to think about the bard in novel and challenging ways. More than a million have already viewed the results online.

MA Character Animation students at CSM, meanwhile, have created short films in response to The Tempest, Shakespeare’s enduringly popular study of betrayal and forgiveness (and a key text in the RSC’s festival programme).

Said Jo Morrison, Olympics engagement co-ordinator for the university: ‘It’s very satisfying to help our students team up with venerable institutions like the Royal Shakespeare Company in order to have these extraordinary creative experiences.

It’s all about enhancing their learning.’

Lin Cheung

INSPIRATIONAL MEDALS Lin Cheung, BA Jewellery Design senior lecturer at CSM, has won a competition by LOCOG to design the medals for the London 2012 Paralympic Games. Lin’s designs draw inspiration from classical Greek art and the winged goddess of victory, Nike.

The reverse of the medals, which depicts ‘the heart of victory’, is a close-up of an area ‘near the heart’ of an existing sculpture of the goddess. Inspired by the idea of togetherness,

the design is overlaid with textures moulded from the plaster cast of the British Museum’s Nike of Paionios.

The obverse of the medals, which depicts ‘spirit in motion’, imagines the outstretched wings of the victory goddess, providing inspiration and a visual metaphor for the Paralympic ethos.

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

London 2012 Inspired Posters

by Contemporary British-based Graphic Designers

Lethaby Gallery, King’s Cross, 29 June – 10 July Windows gallery, King’s Cross, 29 June – 30 august An exhibition of posters inspired by the London 2012 games will be housed in the Lethaby Gallery and Windows Gallery at CSM. The group show, which is the idea of Vaughan Oliver and Jonathan Barnbrook, aims to fly the flag for UK graphic design.

Key British practitioners have accepted invitations to create posters that communicate the positive message of the Olympics, including Ian Anderson, Phil Baines, Jonathan Barnbrook, Neville Brody, Catherine Dixon, Fuel, Malcolm Garrett, Graphic Thought Facility, Angus Hyland, Alan Kitching, Jeremy Leslie, Domenic Lippa, Morag Myerscough, Vaughan Oliver, David Pearson, Michael Place, Tomato, Why Not Associates, Matt Wiley, Marina Willer, Graham Wood and Michael Worthington.

Said Vaughan Oliver: ‘We feel that our hugely talented graphic design community isn’t being fully represented at London 2012 and this is a point of topical concern amongst our peers.’

Added Jonathan Barnbrook: ‘An opportunity to highlight the UK’s depth of talent has so far been overlooked. A chance has also been missed to show the important role graphic design can play in crystallising the spirit of this kind of globally observed event in visual terms.’

Archer by Jonathan Barnbrook

Gold by Vaughan Oliver and Marc Atkins

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

DESIGN & EMOTION… OUT OF CONTROL

CSM alumnus Hussein Chalayan

CSM will host the 8th International Conference on Design & Emotion from 11–14 September 2012 at King’s Cross.

Chaired this year by Dr Jamie Brassett, MA Innovation Management course leader at CSM, and with lead support from CSM Head of Research Professor Janet McDonnell, the biennial conference invites contributions from prominent academics all over the world.

leading academics, industry practitioners, researchers, students and commentators.

While the overarching Design & Emotion agenda embraces all facets of design and the human experience, the conference’s theme this year is ‘Out of Control’.

As uncertainty, crisis and chaos loom large, a world framed or driven by fractured experiences demands new responses from design – as a community, a practice and As the first major international conference to be hosted by CSM, the event makes full use a process. of the state-of-the-art teaching and learning environment now in place at the King’s Cross On the one hand we can configure systems that withstand or manage the challenges – campus. here the focus is on design as a ‘problemsolving’ activity. On the other, we can use Focus of the conference is design and the these challenges as springboards to a user experience across different commercial creative future, with ‘opportunity mapping’ sectors and walks of life. For four busy days as our guide. in autumn, CSM will welcome over 300

In addition to over 100 academic papers and more than 12 workshops, Design & Emotion will feature a stunning line-up of keynote speakers reflecting the conference’s important emphasis on the engagement between academia and industry.

Keynote speakers include Ron Dennis CBE, Chairman McLaren Group; Hussein Chalayan MBE, Creative Director Puma; Professor Michael Apter, Director Apter International; Clive Grinyer, Director of Customer Experience at Cisco; Cecilia Weckström, Global Head of Consumer Experiences at Lego; and Bernardo Fleming, Head of Olfactory Design at International Flavors and Fragrances. www.csm.arts.ac.uk/de2012/

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csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

csm time to show off — issue 12 / summer 2012

BACK CATALOGUE

You can read any back issues of CSM Time at

www.csm.arts.ac.uk/csm-time

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