From the Ground Up

Fall

Volume 4, Issue 3

2013

From the Ground Up A Gardening and Native Plants Quarterly

Colorado State University Extension-Pueblo County 701 Court Street · Suite C · Pueblo, CO 81003 · 719-583-6566 · coopext_pueblo@mail.colostate.edu KNOW YOUR NATIVES

SENECIO FLACCIDUS OR SENSATANIO FANTASTICUS

by Greg Nolan, Colorado Master Gardener, 2009, and Native Plant Master, 2011

In my bone-dry yard in Pueblo West, my super-hero, all-star plant is the Senecio flaccidus or as I like to call it, sensatanio fantasticus. I absolutely love this plant because it is tough, beautiful, and native to Pueblo County prairies. It grows into a small mound or small bush measuring about two feet by two feet with profuse yellow blossoms that are reminiscent of the plant‘s daisy heritage.

Although rather uncommon in our prairies and nearly all xeric yards, I think most gardeners would be more than impressed with this little beauty.

My first Senecio flaccidus blew in, established itself, then caught my attention over and over. It starts blooming in early June, continuing well past the first couple frosts. For me, it can bloom well into October which means five to six full months of blooms. I have actually seen this plant covered with snow only to continue blooming after the Senecio flaccidus growing on a rocky weather warms up. Being a Pueblo County native, it is slope along Pueblo very drought tolerant. Once established, it is a happy Blvd north of the camper and thrives on neglect in the middle of my unArkansas River in late August. Photo irrigated prairie yard and enjoys the company of native courtesy of blue gamma, buffalo grass, and rabbit bush.

L. McMulkin Senecio flaccidus, commonly known as threadleaf ragwort or threadleaf groundsel, is a full sun perennial that is easy to start from seed. Although the plant does not seem to readily reseed itself in my yard without help, I suspect that in pea gravel mulch it would readily pop up wild. The seeds need no stratification and start easily in regular planting pots, or when tended, in the yard. If you propagate Senecio flaccidus in your yard, it is easily mistaken for a weed when young as it looks somewhat like a dull or lightly colored Russian thistle (Salsola tragus). You will not commonly find Senecio flaccidus in most garden centers so home propagation is the way to go.

The propagation process can start now and does not require sophisticated techniques. Collect seeds from July into winter and scatter the seed in large pots or flats of potting soil that drain readily. Cover the Continued on page 2

INDEX Know Your Natives 1-2 Wicked Weeds 2 Plant Propagation Terms 3 Interesting Insects 4 Amending With Manure 5 Native Vegetation 5-6 Perennial People 7

CMG Program Digging Deeper Is It Safe?

Prairie Dogs Hardscapes Fabulous Families Garden Walks

8 9 10 10-11 12-13 13 14

Know Your Natives continued from page 1

seeds lightly with soil and place them in a south window. Keep the soil damp until established, then cut back on water. As they come up, transfer them into individual containers where they stay until they are transferred into the garden. The seeds can be started from January and throughout the winter and early spring months.

After the last frost and throughout spring and early summer, transfer starts to the yard. If a new start lays down in the soil due to wind or water, it will quickly die. Help them along by propping them up with bricks or rocks until they are established and can stand on their own. Rather than direct watering of new starts, let the water run to the base of the plant rather than squirting the top, as new starts lie down easily.

Young plants do better with some type of mulch to help retain soil moisture; grass clippings or pea gravel work well. Water young starts until established. The young Senecio flaccidus will start blooming during the first year.

Propagation Tip: If you find your seedlings die due to damping off or drying out, start your seeds in bigger pots such as 4-6 inch containers or milk carton bottoms with drain holes punched in. Make sure any containers you use drain readily and do not sit in water. You will find that larger pots that do not sit in water control soil moisture much better, mitigating the effects of both damping off and drying out.

WICKED WEEDS

TRIFOLIUM REPENS: IS IT TRULY A WEED?

by Linda McMulkin, CSU Extension-Pueblo County Horticulture

White clover, Trifolium repens, is frequently found in garden beds and lawns. It is often called a weed, but it could possibly be a friend to every gardener in the world.

Trifolium repens belongs to the Fabaceae or Pea family. It is a low growing, herbaceous perennial with trifoliate leaves that often have a white, crescent shaped band on each leaflet. The flower heads consist of 40 to 100 individual white to pinkish florets arranged in round or globular outline. The heads are borne on naked (no leaves) stalks that extend above the foliage. The flowers are long lasting and sweet smelling. The plant reproduces from seed and by above-ground runners (stolons) that form new roots at the nodes.

Like other clovers, the roots of white clover form a symbiotic relationship with bacterium in the Rhizobium genus. The bacteria, protected in the plant‘s roots, fix atmospheric nitrogen (N2) in a form that plants can use for growth (ammonium, NH4, or nitrate, NO3). This system makes clovers a great companion plant for lawns, providing nitrogen for both species.

White clover is native to Eurasia. This species and other clovers are often planted as forage crops for livestock and are favorites of honey bees. The plant is, arguably, very pretty, is loved by rabbits, and can provide hours of fun for kids searching for 4-leaf clovers or making flower crowns. So, is Trifolium repens a weed or the plant we should encourage in our yards?

In lawns, the presence of white clover indicates that the turf is being White clover. Photo courtesy of Chris Evans, Illinois Wildlife Action mowed too low (3‖ mowing height will shade it out) and that the soil is Plan, Bugwood.org. deficient in nitrogen. To reduce the amount of clover in your lawn, mow higher and apply nitrogen fertilizer at the recommended rate (see CSU Extension fact sheet 7.202: Lawn Care, http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07202.pdf).

Spot spraying with herbicides is best done in the fall. Use a product for broadleaf weeds and follow label directions. Translocation of the herbicide to the root system is very successful in the fall, when perennial plants are moving sugars to the roots for winter storage.

Or, learn to love the presence of this plant in your landscape and spend your time looking for that lucky leaf.

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Garden Tip: Wetland Plant Field Guide The Colorado Natural Heritage Program (CNHP) has released a Field Guide to Colorado’s Wetland Plants: Identification, Ecology, and Conservation. Professionals and amateurs alike can use this guide to identify the vascular species that are found in Colorado wetlands. Print copies of the guide are $39.95 plus shipping or you can download the electronic version for no charge. The order form and links are available at http://www.cnhp.colostate.edu/cwic/ident/fieldGuide.aspx. The guide will be available in a pocket version and a mobile app in 2014.

Plant Propagation Terminology: Methods of Seed Production

by Marge Vorndam, Colorado Master Gardener, 1997, and Native Plant Master, 2008

Horticulture is dependent on the production of new plants. There are a variety of ways that new plants can be propagated. It‘s easy to become confused by all of the terms involved related to propagation, so let‘s review the definitions.

Clone: Vegetative propagation. Plant clones are made by reproducing from a parent plant, but without the aid of flowers. Cloned plants are widely used to propagate new plants, because the new plant always grows true to the parent plant. Examples of cloned plants are potatoes grown from eyes, plants grown from bulbs and runners, houseplants grown from rooted cuttings or stems/leaves.

Genetically modified (GM): Plants that have been modified using genetic engineering. The plant DNA has been changed to incorporate a feature that is desirable for successful plant propagation through human effort.

Genetic modification can allow a plant to survive an herbicide, such as Roundup, for treatment of a field to control weeds. Other modifications can provide benefits to the plant to allow management of insect pests, to allow the plant to survive in a wider environmental setting or to improve the nutritional or pharmaceutical value of the crop.

Heirloom: Plants that have been grown for many generations. The plants reproduce true to the parent plant, and the progeny are copies of the parents. Heirlooms are open-pollinated plants. Heirloom vegetables are generally selected for flavor. Most of the heirloom vegetables and flowers we have today owe their existence to the fact that early gardeners, with an eye for quality, saved the seeds of their best plants, sowed them the next year, and in this way improved the species. This is a type of selective breeding.

Hybrid: A plant derived from a cross between two genetically different parents that yields the same F1 hybrid offspring in all progeny plants, resulting in a monoculture crop. The hybrid offspring characteristics will all look like the dominant parent. Hybrids are popular with growers as some desirable trait can be maintained or enhanced. For example, thicker skin or longer shelf life in grocery stores is a result of selective hybrid breeding in tomatoes. Disease resistance and speed of ripening are other traits for which hybrid crops are desirable. F1 hybrid vigor refers to the tendency of hybrids to produce more profusely and to grow better than the parent strains. These plants result from closed pollination through human assistance.

Monoculture/Monocrop: Group of plants having the same genetic code.

Open-pollinated:

See Cross-pollinated.

Cross-pollinated: Male pollen and female eggs combined produce a seed from a flower on different plants.

An example is when pollen from a corn tassle pollinates the ovary of an adjacent corn plant. Pollination is via wind, insects, bats, and humans.

Self-pollinated: Pollen is transferred directly to the stigma within the same flower or to that of other flowers on the same plant.

Humans have used all of these methods to produce plants that favor their existence. While many people are currently questioning the safety of GM plants, it should be noted that humans have been genetically manipulating plant choices via selective breeding throughout agricultural history to achieve the best plants for food production and ornamental gardens.

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INTERESTING INSECTS

ANTS: THE BRAVE AND ADVENTUROUS CLEAN-UP CREW

by Bob Akins, Colorado Master Gardener, 2013

You sit quietly with anticipation as the lights dim and the curtain opens. Then bouncing music starts followed immediately by brilliant pastel singing ants…wait a minute, wrong area. Yes, ants are the topic, but not the cartoon types.

What are your thoughts on ants? Pestiferous creatures that deserve immediate immolation (You did have a magnifying glass as a kid, didn‘t you?) or, perhaps, in a nobler vein, one of the greatest creatures of the eco society.

Greatest creature? Where does that come from? Think about it; when you need a cleanup crew who else can do what ants do. If it‘s edible, then the lowly ant can help.

Chewing off chunks up to 10 times their body weight and carrying it back to help feed their queen who can make more baby ants to help relieve the workload and cleanup faster.

Ants are also brave, noble, and adventurous. When attacked by ruthless enemies intent on taking their food or other resources, the ants bravely fight back with only one thought; protect the hive. What more noble sacrifice can be made? Adventurous? You bet. Send out lowly scouts through all adversity to find new food sources and then leave a hormone trail so that the food can be found again. Brave, noble, adventurous all in one package.

One other point; the little blighters are willing to help you clean your house. Just think of that honey spill on the picnic table. Did anyone wipe it up? No, but the ants gladly clean it up for you and look for more.

Ants are found just about everywhere (OK, Antarctica is out) and nest mostly outdoors. They will come inside, though, as they are foragers and will take their food as they find it. Ones you don‘t want invading are the Carpenter ants (Camponotus species). Big, black and willing to nest in wood (read that eat your house foundation). Odorous house ants (Tapinoma sessile) are another one that will forage in houses.

They are little stinkers so when disturbed will ―fart‖ and when a lot go off at once, even the mighty cow flatulence is challenged.

One last ant to consider is the Pharaoh ant (Monomorium pharoaensis). Small, brown and hungry, these little beggars have no problem going for any sweet jam, jelly, or sugar available. Puts a new spin on the peanut butter side always lands down.

Well, what can we do to get rid of these critters? Best way is to eliminate food and water sources. Go ecologically crazy and use some nefarious chemical to clear nest areas near the house. Use bait. Flush hot water down their nest hole, not so good as you need a lot of water and they have long, varied tunnels.

Besides, they can swim and would probably appreciate a hot bath after a long day of hauling food.

All kidding aside, for more scientific information refer to the CSU Extension fact sheet 5.518, Ants in the Home by W.S. Cranshaw and other insect publications at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/menu_insect.html and http://bspm.agsci.colostate.edu/outreach-button/insect-information/arthropods-of-colorado/.

Garden Tip: Fall Blooming Annuals for Containers and Flower Beds Many warm season annuals begin to fade as the days shorten and nights get cooler. Now is the time to replant with annuals that love the fall. You can swap out fading annuals by gently removing tired plants and placing new plants in the hole. Try cool season plants like pansies, viola, African daisies, and alyssum. Some annuals perform well from spring to late fall (snapdragons, marigolds, petunias, Calibrachoa and verbena), especially if you prune the plants back by about 1/3 and fertilize them in September to stimulate new growth. These fall loving annuals may continue blooming until the first hard freeze.

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Amending With Manure by Linda McMulkin Gardeners in southeastern Colorado are aware that amending soil with organic matter can improve the growing conditions for ornamentals and edible plants. Animal manure is a common choice, but is it the best choice for our gardens?

Manure is often readily available and inexpensive. But, it can be salty or contain weed seeds. Weeds can be controlled over time, but salt in the manure can potentially push our already saline soils to the point where plants struggle to grow. Does that mean home gardeners should never use manure or manure based amendments? Of course not. But, there are a few tips that should be followed.  Submit a soil sample of the native soil prior to amending. The soil test report will list existing soil salt levels and indicate if manure is recommended as an amendment.  Use manure sparingly over several years rather than in large amounts.

Follow CSU Extension recommendations for application rates.

Remember that a little goes a long way with manure.  Mix any amendment into the existing soil as deeply as possible.  Apply in the fall to allow decomposers to break down organic matter over the winter. A layer of mulch and periodic irrigation will protect microorganisms and encourage decomposition.  Adding manure to vegetable garden soil can increase the presence of E. coli. Apply manure 4 months before planting edible crops. Wash all produce before consuming.

For more information on using manure as a soil amendment, see Colorado Master Gardener GardenNotes #242: Using Manure in the Home Garden at http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/242.pdf and CSU Extension fact sheet 9.369: Preventing E. coli From Garden to Plate at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/ pubs/foodnut/09369.pdf.

Native Vegetation Changes Due To Drought

by Rich Rhoades, District Conservationist, Natural Resources Conservation Service, Pueblo Field Office

I can remember my grandfather and me sitting on folding chairs on the front lawn watching the development of a summer thunderhead. We were in southeastern Colorado on a hot summer day. My grandfather was a rancher, so weather and native grass growth were very important to him. It was very dry that summer and my grandfather had been thinking back to the hard times in the 1930s. He described the perfect thunderstorm, which direction it developed, what time of day the clouds started to build and what direction the wind would blow. In the 30s, during the Dust Bowl, he said the clouds would build but high winds would tear the clouds apart and no rain would fall. We watched the cloud form, hoping it was the cloud that would bring rain.

Today we find ourselves in a similar situation. Depending on where you get your weather information, only 2 of the last 10 years have been average or above. The last few years have been especially brutal with hot, dry winds, little precipitation and virtually no growth from native grasses, forbs and shrubs. Our native plants developed under the arid climate of eastern Colorado but even they can succumb to multi-year drought.

What does this mean for the native vegetation and what should we expect when the moisture does come again? Based on my observations during the 2000-2002 dry period, if we have ―normal‖ precipitation, it will find the native plants in a weakened condition (low vigor) due to a drastically reduced root system. The natives are not rapidly growing and have been weakened by the effects of multiple years of drought. I expect we will have a number of annual weedy species appear. If the winter or early spring moisture is good, we can expect cheatgrass brome, redstem fillaree, annual barley and a variety of mustards. Winter annuals will be abundant. If moisture occurs in the summer, expect sunflowers. It seems that kochia, stickseed and Russian thistle are always ready to grow no matter what season the rains come. A bumper crop of tumbleweeds might be the result.

Continued on page 6 5

Native Vegetation continued from page 5

The period from 1982 to 1999 was the second longest sustained wet period in recorded history and the most drought-free period since 1890. The 1990‘s were the wettest decade ever in Southeastern CO. Our baseline of what is normal may have become skewed.

Native plants, our rangelands, change composition in response to good management, weather, fire, over grazing and other disturbances.

Studies of a variety of areas give us some clues as to what might happen in the next few years in response to drought. As I dust off my cracked crystal ball, here is my guess as to the vegetative changes we‘ll see. Recovery, or lack thereof, will depend on how much or how little precipitation we get over the next few years. In grazed areas, we‘ll see a decline in the Pueblo County prairie in the fall of 2007, production of blue grama, the Colorado state grass, and one of our most after a summer of good rain. common and palatable grasses. We are already seeing areas with blue Photo by M. Reynolds. grama mortality of 60-80%. I have seen native forbs and shrubs that appear to have died due to the drought. We are seeing an increase in bare ground and due to the reduced amount of grass production, litter cover on the soil surface is decreased. The litter (organic remains of previous year‘s growth) protects the soil from erosion and helps hold in soil moisture. We saw this in the 2002 drought but over time the blue grama did recover. Other observations from the 2002 drought include ungrazed and properly grazed areas seemed to recover more quickly than over-grazed areas. Pastures where grazing animals were removed early in the drought recovered more quickly than pastures where grazing continued.

The concern now is this most recent drought has lasted several years and may continue. As the result of blue grama losing its competiveness, we may see less palatable and invasive plants increasing such as broom snakeweed, galleta, red three awn and all types of annual weeds. Rangelands are resilient but proper grazing management and a little luck in the form of precipitation will be needed for the native vegetation to make a full recovery. Full recovery may take years or even decades depending on past management and precipitation.

To finish my drought story, the clouds did roll in exactly as my grandfather predicted and we sat on the folding chairs in the rain. We sat there for quite a while enjoying the cool and the wet relief from a brief drought. My grandmother came and made us get out of the rain. She thought we didn‘t have sense enough to come out of the rain; she was right.

Editor’s note: Recent rain has greened up the prairie, but according to sources at NRCS and the US Forest Service, many sites are green due to weeds. Fortunately, other sites show signs of healthy perennial grass growth. Recovery will be an ongoing process and depends on past management practices and precipitation this fall and winter.

CSU Extension Youth Programs Enrollment for Pueblo Youth Naturally and 4-H begins soon.

Please contact CSU Extension-Pueblo County at 719-583-6566 for more information.

Garden Tip: Saving seed Many home gardeners save seed of favorite vegetable or ornamental plants in an effort to grow the crop again or to increase the number of plants in the landscape. To ensure success, you need to learn details about the plant and it‘s reproductive schedule, including details of pollination, seed maturity, processing after harvest, storage, and any special handling before germination. For general information on saving seed, see CSU Extension fact sheet 7.602 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07602.pdf.

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PERENNIAL PEOPLE

DON SETTLE, SALES ASSOCIATE, PUEBLO WEST GARDEN CENTER

by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007 I recently visited Don and Katy Settle to learn more about Don‘s passion for vegetable gardening. Before we even sat down to talk, Don and Katy had picked fresh tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers for me from their beautiful garden.

Did you grow up in a gardening or farming family?

No, but at an early age I spent a couple of summers working on a farm in Penrose. At age six, my job there was to raise rabbits. While in high school, I worked a couple of summers on a cattle ranch in Westcliffe and loved every minute.

I got into gardening when Katy and I were first married, living in an apartment complex that is now the location of the Pueblo Mall. Along with two neighbors, we made a huge garden and grew everything imaginable. At harvest time, the rest of the neighbors showed up! My biggest weakness, when we bought a house, was roses. I‘d plant them, they‘d look good for a year, and then they‘d die. Over the years, I spent thousands of dollars (money we didn‘t have) on roses.

You were a Colorado Master Gardener (CMG) for many years. Any favorite memories?

When I retired in the early 90‘s, I completed the CMG course and learned how to grow roses. I served as President of the Farmers Marketeers for three years, including the year we moved the Farmers Market to Midtown. It wasn‘t a popular decision at first, but it had to be done; Mineral Palace couldn‘t accommodate vendors‘ trucks and customer traffic. Two other CMG activities I enjoyed were planting trees at local schools on Arbor Day and mentoring 4-H students in gardening.

Weren’t you also involved in the Food Preservation program through CSU Extension?

After agreeing to test pressure cookers at the market on Tuesdays, I took the Master Food Safety Preservation class, learned how to make jerky, and eventually taught several classes. I learned about canning from Katy‘s mother. And I love the finished product!

Tell me about your vegetable gardening apparatus.

I built the frame from landscape timbers. Then I mounted a series of 20-gallon pots on the frame and installed the drip system and canopy. Each tomato Don Settle shows off his vegetable garden apparatus, consisting of a platform, plant has a companion marigold, which keeps insects containers, and shade cloth. Photo courtesy of E. Brideau away. Every year, when I remove the dead plants, I replenish the remaining soil with peat moss, compost and time-release fertilizer.

What is the best part about working at the Pueblo West Garden Center?

I like helping people. Even if a customer brings in a soil sample that looks like it came from a rock pile, I can help him plant in it. My formula: 1/3 native soil, 1/3 compost, 1/3 peat moss. I also encourage new residents to visit the Xeriscape Demonstration Garden at Cattail Crossing.

The Pueblo West Garden Center has a large stock of xeric perennials, in response to demand and because it‘s the right product to offer. I firmly believe in the seven steps of xeriscape, and homeowners would be wise to follow them. We can‘t continue to irrigate thousands of square feet of Kentucky Blue Grass lawn. Even if we‘re willing to pay $300 or $400 water bills, there is a limit to the water that‘s available. And, a garden of xeric perennials is so much more attractive, wouldn‘t you agree? Yes. 7

Become a Colorado Master Gardener!

Colorado Master Gardeners learn in local gardening classes, at state-wide seminars, while attending field trips, by answering questions from clients and by doing it themselves.

The majority of CMG training courses will be taught via CSU‘s well-developed Distance Education Program. All classes will have local staff as facilitators and experienced Colorado Master Gardeners will be available to answer questions and assist with hands-on activities.

Course Schedule: Dates: January 23—March 27 Days: Thursdays Time: 9 a.m. - 4 p.m.

Location: CSU Extension/Pueblo County 701 Court Street, 2nd Floor Pueblo, CO 81003

Applications available October 1st online, http://pueblo.colostate.edu/hor/hort.shtml, at the location listed above, or by calling 719-583-6566.

Training Options To be considered for the Colorado Master Gardener Volunteer Option:       

Ability to volunteer 50 hours Complete and submit CMG application Complete background check Provide references and attend an interview Sign volunteer commitment agreement Must attend 80% to complete Pay reduced tuition (cash/checks only): Before Jan. 3—$135 + manual fee Late fee assessed Jan. 6-10—$185 + manual fee

To be considered for the Colorado Gardener Certificate Option:   

There is no volunteer commitment Complete and submit CGC application Pay tuition—$535 + manual fee by Jan. 21

Required Course Textbook: Nationally recognized Science of Gardening manual, compiled by CMG State Coordinator David Whiting.

Available in:  hard copy for $90  electronic version (from publisher) for $78.40

Garden Tip: Declining Health of Blue Spruce in Home Landscapes CSU Extension offices and the CSU plant laboratory have received numerous calls regarding spruce trees with purple needles and declining health. Some homeowners have heard that a fungus is causing the problem, but that has not been confirmed on any sample submitted to the plant lab.

According to Dr. Tamla Blunt, ―The purpling needles can be caused by many things…drought/temperature extremes/cold temps before the tree has hardened off/wind desiccation/root compaction/salts/herbicide damage.‖ She reports that, ―Any talk of needlecast disease in spruce has been rumor‖. This means that drought, improper irrigation, fluctuating temperatures, and poor soil conditions are the most likely cause of health problems on blue spruce.

According to Dr. Blunt, ―Spruce trees are not as drought tolerant as we once thought. Blue spruce need more consistent watering and winter watering to help them survive. Also, the needles falling from the inside of the tree usually indicate stress on the tree. It is trying to shed older needles so it can send energy and food to the current year‘s needles‖.

If you would like to send a blue spruce sample to the lab, please contact your local CSU Extension office for details or see CSU Extension fact sheet 7.246 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07246.pdf.

If you need any special accommodation(s) to participate in any Colorado State University Extension event, please contact CSU Extension-Pueblo County at 719-583-6566. Your request must be submitted at least five (5) business days in advance of the event. Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Pueblo County cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination.

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DIGGING DEEPER

THE WELL-TENDED PERENNIAL GARDEN reviewed by Edith Brideau, Colorado Master Gardener, 2007

This book first came to my attention in 2007, while working as a volunteer in the CSU Extension Office in Pueblo. At that time, my experience with perennials was very limited but I was determined to feature them in my new landscape. It became apparent after just a few minutes of sampling the chapters that this was a ―must-have‖ book. My copy is now well-worn, with pages dog-eared, especially useful passages highlighted, and notes written in margins.

The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting and Pruning Techniques by Tracy DiSabato-Aust thoroughly discusses the requirements for successful perennial gardening – design, bed preparation, planting techniques, and maintenance. Although hundreds of gardening books cover this same territory, the author does an especially good job of explaining why and how to perform important gardening tasks. Her intended audience includes home gardeners and professional landscapers who maintain their clients‘ gardens or educate their clients on proper maintenance. The chapter on preparation for winter and spring is especially helpful for beginning gardeners who may be unaware of the benefits of winter interest and habitat.

Nearly one-third of the text is devoted to an explanation of pruning.

Drawings illustrate where to make deadheading cuts on a variety of plants, how to pinch, cut back, and thin. The author even suggests tools that work especially well for each technique. Photographs illustrate the benefits of properly timed pruning, often comparing plants that were pruned to those that were not.

The second half of the book features a 160-page encyclopedia of perennials, listed alphabetically by botanical name. Each full-page entry includes a color photograph and begins with information typically listed on a plant label, followed by a detailed discussion of suggested pruning, other maintenance, and related plants.

Following the encyclopedia are blank maintenance journal pages, designed for the reader to document in detail their own experience with pruning, feeding, pest control, etc. Because each page is devoted to one particular plant during one season, readers may wish to copy these pages or use them to design their own journal.

Appendix A is devoted to the care of ornamental grasses. Appendix B is a suggested month-by-month schedule for planting, general maintenance and pruning of perennials. Because the schedule is a guideline for Midwest gardens, it should be adjusted for regional conditions. Appendix C contains 36 plant lists by specific pruning and maintenance requirements, for example: clay busters; lower maintenance perennials; perennials that may require division every 4-5 years; perennials to deadhead to lateral flower, bud or leaf; perennials with seedheads that attract song birds; perennials that require maintenance in the spring.

Gardeners in our region may disagree with a few of the author‘s suggestions, which she acknowledges are based on her experience in the Midwest. However, this book provides valuable instruction in pruning techniques that are applicable to plants in all regions and encourages readers to experiment with pruning to enhance the beauty and health of their perennials. It is a worthy addition to any gardener‘s library.

Garden Tip: Fall Lawn Care Fall is a great time to give your cool season lawn some extra attention.

Fertilization, aeration, reseeding, and weed control are all easily done as the weather cools off. Remember to schedule irrigation days on your calendar. For details on fall lawn care, please visit the CSU Extension website at www.ext.colostate.edu/ and type in ‗fall lawn care‘.

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Is It Safe? by Lois Illick, Extension Agent, Family and Consumer, CSU Extension/Pueblo County How do you know if a food preservation recipe is safe? Because it was Grandma‘s and no one has died (yet!) is not an indication.

The only recipes that we can say are safe are the ones that have been tested to be safe. That means someone has taken the time to check proportions, acid levels, processing and methods. The best web sites are .edu and .gov. Other web sites may not adjust for elevation, know the details of food characteristics in preservation, or other food safety principles.

One of the best web sites is the National Center for Home Food Preservation http://nchfp.uga.edu/.

They have a huge variety of recipes and information. Any of the land grant universities like Colorado State University (jerky research), New Mexico State University (chili heaven!) or Purdue or Cornell, will have food preservation tips.

Alaska has some of the best recipes for fish, but unless you are really experienced, only do pints and not quarts of fish.

If you have questions on food preservation, call your local Extension agency – we know this stuff!

Subscribe to this quarterly horticulture newsletter by contacting Carolyn at 583-6574.

Available in paper and electronic formats.

The Dogs Are Moving In—Prairie Dogs

by Marcia Weaber, Colorado Master Gardener, 2005, and Native Plant Master, 2007

Prairie dogs have become an urban as well as a rural problem in Pueblo County. The most abundant and widely distributed is the black-tailed prairie dog (Cynomys ludovicianus), which is named for its blacktipped tail. They are communal rodents that live in colonies called ―towns‖. If not controlled, their numbers can increase by 20% per year.

Prairie dog adults may live from 5 to 8 years. They feed mostly on grasses and forbs from which they obtain needed water. They also consume flowers, seeds, shoots, roots, grain, grasshoppers and other insects when available. The prairie dog town is notable for its close cropped appearance. The animals eat the grasses and chew off the plants they deem inedible. Prairie dogs want a clear field of vision so they can see the approach of predators.

Prairie dogs are most active during the day. In the summer, during the hottest part of the day, they go below ground where it is much cooler. Black-tailed prairie dogs are active all year, but may stay underground for several days during severe winter weather.

The family life revolves around rearing one litter of pups per year, usually consisting of one to six pups. The pups emerge from the Black-tailed prairie dog. Photo courtesy of Alfred Viola, Northeastern University, burrows in May or June. The survival rate of the young prairie dogs is Bugwood.org very high due to the vigilance of the town, with sentinel prairie dogs acting as a predator alarm system. Predators that invade the burrows include badgers, and weasels. Coyotes, bobcats, foxes, hawks, and eagles also kill prairie dogs. Prairie rattlesnakes and bull snakes may take young, but rarely take adult prairie dogs.

One species that does not prey on prairie dogs but lives in their burrows is the Burrowing Owl, a rare species that is considered threatened in Colorado and needs to be protected. Whatever method of control used, be observant of the possibility of the burrowing owl. Watch for signs of the diminutive owl by droppings on the burrow. In Colorado, burrowing owls are a migratory species, and can be found almost anywhere there are prairie dog burrows from late March or early April through October. During winter, Colorado owls migrate to Mexico and Central America.

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Prairie Dogs continued from page 10

In the urban setting, natural predators will not be effective as most tend to stay away from human habitation. Control of the rodents is by human intervention.

Public health is a primary concern regarding prairie dog colonies that are in close proximity to residential areas and school yards. Prairie dogs are susceptible to plague, a severe infectious disease caused by the bacterium Yersinia pestis. Plague is often fatal to both humans and prairie dogs, and can be transmitted by the bite of an infected flea. The disease is curable if diagnosed and treated in its early stages. It is important that the public be aware of the disease and avoid close contact with prairie dogs and other rodents.

Several types of control are available for use in the urban landscape. Fencing for the exclusion of prairie dogs is rarely practical, although they may be discouraged by tight-mesh, heavy-gauge, galvanized wire, 5 feet (1.5 m) wide, with 2 feet (60 cm) buried in the ground and 3 feet (90 cm) remaining aboveground.

A slanting overhang at the top increases the effectiveness of the fence. The main problem with fencing is the inability for complete exclusion because of driveway and walkways.

Toxic baits are another method and fairly effective way to control prairie dogs. Toxic bait is most effective when prairie dogs are active and when there is no green forage available. Therefore, it is best to apply baits in late summer and fall. Zinc phosphide baits can only be applied from July 1 through January 31. The only toxic baits currently registered and legal for use to control prairie dogs are 2% zinc phosphide-treated grain bait and pellet formulations. Zinc phosphide baits are effective and relatively safe regarding livestock and other wildlife in prairie dog towns including the Burrowing Owl, if used properly. These baits are available through national suppliers. Zinc phosphide is a Restricted Use Pesticide, available for sale to and use by certified pesticide applicators or their designates. Contact the Colorado Department of Agriculture at (303) 239-4100 for Bait should be scattered over a 6-inch circle at each burrow entrance. Illustration from Prairie Dogs, published by the information on acquiring EPA certification.

Internet Center for Wildlife Damage Management, Other products that are effective are aluminum http://icwdm.org/handbook/rodents/PrarieDogs.asp. phosphide and gas cartridges. Aluminum phosphide is a Restricted Use Pesticide, registered as a fumigant for the control of burrowing rodents. The tablets react with moisture in prairie dog burrows, and release toxic phosphine gas (PH3). Use a 4-foot (1.2-m) section of 2-inch (5-cm) PVC pipe to improve placement of the tablets. Insert the pipe into a burrow and roll the tablets down the pipe. Place crumpled newspaper and/or a slice of sod in the burrow to prevent loose soil from smothering the tablets and tightly pack the burrow entrance with soil. To increase efficiency, work in pairs, one person dispensing and one plugging burrows.

Gas cartridges have been used for many years to control prairie dogs. When ignited, they burn and produce carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, and other gases. To prepare a gas cartridge for use, insert a nail or small screwdriver in the end at marked points and stir the contents before inserting and lighting the fuse. Hold the cartridge away from you until it starts burning, then place it deep in a burrow. Burrows should be plugged immediately in the same way as with aluminum phosphide. Be careful when using gas cartridges because they can cause severe burns. Do not use them near flammable materials or inside buildings. Gas cartridges are a General Use Pesticide, available through USDA-APHIS-Wildlife Services. They provide up to 95% control when applied correctly.

No matter what method is applied to eradicate prairie dogs, safety needs to be the first consideration in handling the product. When a license is required, or if the landowners are uncomfortable with the idea of handling the products, it might be advantageous for several landowners to pool their resources and hire a person to work the acreage that is infested by prairie dogs. It is recommended that a target of 90% eradication of prairie dogs be achieved. From personal experience, it will be an ongoing problem unless all area ―towns‖ are treated.

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HARMONIOUS HARDSCAPES

AN EASY-TO-DO “TREE” FOR CLIMBING PLANTS

by Ed Roland, Native Plant Master, 2009, and Colorado Native Plant Society –SE Chapter President

After finding that the metal trellises sold at garden centers were too short and otherwise inadequate for my Climbing Trumpet Vine (Campsis radicans), I decided to make my own 7-foot "tree for climbing plants."

This tree idea should work great for many other vining and climbing species; another common example would be ornamental grape. And it's a simple project requiring minimal tools.

First, the materials you need* are: 2 x 20-foot 1/2-inch diameter metal reinforcement rods (aka rerods or rebar), available at any home center, cut in half to make four 10-foot sections. Home centers will almost always cut them for you on request.

3 high quality stainless steel pipe clamps. Any size of 1/2" or so width that will fit around the four rerods. (If you have a welder, you can just weld the rerods together.)

1 bag of concrete.

1 or 2 narrow boards and a piece of wire or cord for holding the tree in place while the concrete sets.

Tools: Propane torch. This is one of the cheapies that use the mini-tanks from the hardware store. A welding/cutting torch also works.

Level for making sure your tree is plumb Shovel or post hole digger Screwdriver for the pipe clamps Vicegrip or pliers Assembly: 1) Lay out rerods on a horizontal surface.

2) Install one pipe clamp just below where you want "branches" on your tree. My clamp was just over 3 feet from the end of what would be the branches. (See the illustration.)

3) Install another pipe clamp about 20 inches from the other end of the four rerods.

4) Divide the remaining space in half and install the third pipe clamp. Tighten clamps as much as possible but be careful not to strip the mechanisms.

Shaping the tree: Heat a section of each rerod with the propane torch just above the pipe clamp while pulling down on the end with a viceDrawing by E. Roland grip or pliers. When the rerod becomes hot enough, it will soften and easily bend into position.  You can control the kind of bend you get by how much of the rerod you heat up. A longer section heated will give you a more gradual bend. If you heat only a small section, you'll get a relatively sharp bend.  A bench vise to hold the assembled rerods makes this a bit easier, but it's not really necessary.  Important: You want to pull the rerods in diametrically opposite directions to get maximum separation between the four branches.

I put a double bend in my tree branches, but any shape will do. I also put a very slight bend in the other end of the rerods to keep them secure in the concrete.

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“Tree” continued from page 12

Installing the tree: 1) Dig a 12-inch diameter hole, approximately 18 inches deep, where you want your tree.

2) Set the tree in place and wire or tie a board or two to keep it vertical. Check for plumb with your level and put a rock or other weight on the ends of the board(s) to keep the tree stable.

3) You can mix the concrete, or just pour it in dry and then add water. Use a stick or narrow piece of board to mix the concrete in the hole by moving it up and down until all of the concrete is wet. A bit of excess water isn't a problem since the soil will absorb it.

4) Double check the plumb, adjust if necessary, and then allow the concrete to set.

Final notes:  I spray painted my tree before installation, but the growth is so profuse that this turned out to be an unnecessary step.  I bought a Campsis radicans from a nursery and also started four more plants from seed for a total of five trumpet vines planted around the base. This resulted in complete coverage of the tree with vines and a few flowers the very first year. The tree's second year flowers were profuse and much appreciated by the many hummingbirds visiting it.

----------*One enhancement I added, but later thought unnecessary, was a short piece of chicken coop fencing wrapped and wired around the "trunk" to help get the vines climbing. This might be important for other vining plants, but I found the Campsis radicans vines really didn't need any help to find their way up the tree.

Photo courtesy of E. Roland

FABULOUS FAMILIES

EUPHORBIACEAE—THE SPURGES by Linda McMulkin The spurge family (Euphorbiaceae) is a large, diverse, group of plants with a few common characteristics and many variations between individual species in the family. The common themes of Euphorbiaceae are imperfect flowers (separate male and female), colored bracts, and milky sap. The flower parts are often reduced to just the essentials. Carpellate flowers consist of a single superior ovary with three lobes elevated on a pedicle (see drawing). The staminate flower is reduced to a solitary stamen. Showy bracts (colored leaves) and nectariferous glands serve to attract pollinators. Identification of individual species involves morphological differences in leaf structure and arrangement on the stem, variations in hair on leaves, if the plants are monoecious or dioecious, and the presence or absence of stipules.

Worldwide, the family includes species that produce rubber, cassava, tapioca, castor oil, arrowroot, and the toxin ricin. The family also includes houseplants such as croton, poinsettia, and crown of thorns. Native Euphorbiaceae include Agaloma marginata (Snow on the mountain) and Chamaesyce fendleri (Fendler‘s sandmat). The family also contains Tithymalus myrsinites (Myrtle spurge) and T. esula (Leafy spurge), introduced plants listed as noxious weeds in Colorado.

Agaloma marginata is commonly seen along local highways in late summer.

Photo and drawing courtesy of the United States Department of Agriculture Plant Database, http://plants.usda.gov/java/.

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GARDEN WALKS

PUEBLO WEST XERISCAPE DEMONSTRATION GARDEN

by Pat Stuckey, Vice-President and General Manager, Xeriscape Gardens at Catttail Crossing

The award winning Pueblo West Xeriscape Garden at Cattail Crossing covers a half acre on the north side of Cattails Crossing Park and Pond at the intersection of McCulloch Blvd. and Joe Martinez Ave. The garden is zoned by the plants‘ needs for water, soil, and light. Themed beds include ornamental grasses, roses, butterflies, Pueblo West natives, and a rock garden. New for 2013 is a Prairie Area that shows Buffalo grass as a turf, mixed grasses left natural (mown once annually), and grasses mixed with prairie flowers. Plants are labeled with their proper botanical names.

Cattail Crossing Park is about 10 acres, centered around a 4-acre pond. There is parking available on the northwest corner of the park, adjacent to the golf course parking lot. A 1/3 mile trail circles the pond and connects with a trail that parallels McCulloch Blvd.

Between the pond and the trail are several fishing piers for children 15 and under. There are picnic tables with shade covers. The parking lot, loop trail, and fishing piers are all ADA (handicapped) accessible. The park is open to the public yearround during daylight hours.

The Xeriscape Demonstration Garden is designed, planted and maintained by The Gardeners at Cattail Crossing, usually referred to simply as ―The Gardeners.‖ Sponsorship and financial support has been through the Gardeners‘ own fund-raising efforts, Pueblo West Metro Views from the path above the garden and one of the main walkways.

District‘s Parks and Rec Department, Pueblo West Photos courtesy of L. McMulkin Women‘s League, and various other entities including Plant Select®.

In 2010, the Xeriscape Demonstration Garden was designated a Plant Select® garden, one of 78 in Colorado, Montana, Utah, and Wyoming. Plant Select® is a cooperative program administered by Denver Botanic Gardens and Colorado State University in concert with horticulturists and nurseries throughout the Rocky Mountain region and beyond. The purpose of Plant Select® is to seek out, identify and distribute the best plants for landscapes and gardens from the intermountain region to the high plains. See more at http://plantselect.org. A qualifying garden must have good design, maintenance, and an educational program. Plant Select® plants are used throughout the garden in appropriate zones.

The Pueblo West Xeriscape Garden at Cattail Crossing was selected to receive the Showcase Garden Award for 2013 from Plant Select®. The award was given, ―In recognition of exceeding the program‘s expectation through the creation and maintenance of an exceptional public demonstration garden‖. Other Honors: In 2006 the garden received $2,500 as a finalist for Scott‘s Community Beautification Gardener of the Year Award. In 2009 the garden received a Keep Pueblo Beautiful Award for outstanding Non-Profit Landscape. ―The Gardeners‖ can be found working in the garden every Friday morning during the growing season and welcome questions.

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