Part 4 – Cliffsend to Dover

Cliffsend to Dover

PART FOUR

Part 4:

Cliffsend to Dover

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Distance: 31.7km Ascent: 330m

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Highlights

• Pegwell Bay Country Park is where the

Saxons landed in 449 and St Augustine in 597. It’s also the site of the Salty

Seal, a pleasant café to set you up for the day’s riding • Sandwich is a lovely town with interesting buildings, boat trips and cafés • Richborough Castle is worth a short detour if you enjoy history • Betteshanger Country Park has some great off-road cycle trails, as well as other outdoor activities • Deal is a lovely seaside town, with a pier, various shops and cafés, a long, shingle beach and two grand castles • South Foreland Lighthouse • Fan Bay Deep Shelter and

Sound Mirrors • View over Dover harbour • Dover Castle

Advice

• Look out for stray golf balls as you ride between Sandwich and Deal • After so much riding along the flat, get prepared physically and mentally for the climb out of Kingsdown, after Deal • Take care when entering Dover – it’ll feel busy after all the traffic-free cycling

Nature

You could be lucky to see any of the following birds through this section of the ride: red kite, red-legged partridge, grey heron, shelduck, short-eared owl, buzzard, oystercatcher, green woodpecker, curlew, marsh harrier, skylark, and lapwing, all of which can all be spotted along this part of the coast. For more information, have a look at the Sandwich Bay Observatory Club.

sbbot.org.uk Navigation

This section of the route is another simple ride in terms of navigation, as it follows close to the coastline, which if you keep on your left, you won’t go far wrong. It also has the added benefit of following the same trails as the National Cycle Network (NCN) 1, so there are numerous useful signposts that will pop up to confirm you are on the right track.

Area introduction and route summary

You set off cycling through Pegwell Nature Reserve and the country park, slowly bearing away from the coast and following the cycle path as it guides you through a quiet area which provides habitat for rare flora and fauna. The grassy seafront park has a dedicated bird-watching box not far from the entrance, which is in stark contrast to what you encounter as you soon reach Richborough Port, a noisy cacophony of vehicles and industrial workings.

Richborough Castle

Cliffsend to Sandwich

There used to be a major town and port here called Stonar, a rival to Sandwich, but in 1365 it was flooded before being invaded and razed to the ground by the French in 1389, and from which it never recovered. The path beside the A256 may be noisy with vehicles rumbling close by, but it’s easy to follow and firm track soon has you flying past the industrial estates and crossing a lovely little single-laned toll bridge into the charming town of Sandwich, one of the best-preserved medieval towns in England. Just north of Sandwich sits Richborough Castle, perhaps the most symbolically important of all Roman sites in Britain, having witnessed both the beginning and almost the end of Roman rule. After riding past it, on the other side of the River Stour, to Sandwich, you can access it by heading back northwards on the Richborough road. The site has a Roman fort and amphitheatre set amid the East Kent marshes. Here you can explore the huge stone walls that mark the site of the Saxon Shore fortress, the rolling defensive ditches and the foundations which show the scale of this once bustling Roman settlement. Now lying around 3km from the sea, this was most likely the main entry for the Romans' invasion circa AD 43. They established a bridgehead and commemorated their success by building a triumphal arch whose cross shaped foundations still survive at the site. In the third century, Roman Britain was under attack by Saxon and other raiders, making it necessary to fortify the prosperous commercial port of Rutupiae. They dug triple ditches and ramparts which can still be seen, along with a museum and exhibits showing Roman life.

Sandwich to Deal

Your journey now heads back towards the coast, joining a quiet toll road, making for a pleasant journey across this flat, open area. Once again, the coastline here is a haven for butterflies, dragonflies, moths, unique flora and, of course, birds.

Sandwich

Although the sea has now retreated, this was once one of the best medieval trading posts in the country. As well as a good selection of cafés, pubs and shops, Sandwich has a number of other attractions and sites of interest, such as a United States Navy P-22 gunboat, built in Germany in 1952 to patrol the River Rhine, and which takes tours up the river. And on the quay, which was the basis for Sandwich’s prosperity and fame for centuries, a Medieval Centre has recreations and displays on the period 1335 to 1485.

Medieval town gate

Betteshanger Park

Sandwich Bay Bird Observatory Trust is located along the lane, and offers some pleasant, simple accommodation, open to non-members. It provides a peaceful stopover for anyone who’s happy to cater for themselves. Continuing on your way, you have the option to stick to the tarmac, or as we chose, a sandy byway, to pass between the scrubland, although you’re more likely to see golfers in the heather as they pick their way from one lush grassy green hole to the next. As you continue parallel to the coast, old pillboxes sit perched on top of the dunes, standing guard as you make your way south. After rejoining the tarmac, you pass the Chequers Kitchen Cookery School, where they provide not only cookery lessons but also a chance to dine at times. Sitting on long tables together, expect a friendly and convivial meal. Entering the coastal town of Deal, and if you’ve timed it right for the market on Saturday, you’ll be treated to a range of local and foreign goods. Don’t worry if you’re here on another day, though: as with many coastal towns there are a range of cafés, restaurants and shops on hand along the seafront to satisfy your needs. Bicycles are not allowed on the pier, but there is some cycle parking available, and the Deal Pier Kitchen restaurant at the end offers a welcome treat.

Betteshanger Country Park

Just off the route is Betteshanger Country Park, with more than 10km of off-road cycle trails, graded for difficulty, as well as other activities such as archery and den building. Situated on a former colliery spoil site, the area has been transformed into a wonderful outdoor area offering a range of activities and events.

betteshanger-park.co.uk

Statue at Betteshanger

Deal Pier

The current pier is the third incarnation. The first was built in 1838 but was washed away during a storm in 1857. In 1863, a replacement pier was commissioned and built to a length of 1,100 feet. It had a tram that carried luggage and goods up to a steamer landing stage for the convenience of its patrons, and a pavilion built in 1886 for concerts, plus a reading room added in the mid 1870s.

However, even after it survived a number of collisions with ships, the army was given permission by Winston Churchill to demolish it in 1940, to allow coastal guns a clear line of sight during the Second World War. The third and current structure, built from reinforced concrete to a length of 1,026 feet, was opened in 1957 by the Duke of Edinburgh. The four shelters on either side of the pier are popular with anglers and always attract large numbers for the 'heaviest fish of the month' competition run by the local angling shop.

After so much riding along the flat, get prepared physically and mentally for the climb out of Kingsdown, after Deal.

Deal Castle

Shortly, when the road bears inland, you keep ahead to join the cycle path along the coastline, passing in front of Deal Castle, which was constructed by Henry VIII between 1539-40. This artillery fortress was built to protect against invasion from France and the Holy Roman Empire, and to defend the strategically important naval anchorage offshore, called the Downs. Although designed to allow all-round firepower from more than 140 guns, it never achieved that number. However, it was called into action for a hard-fought siege between Royalist and Parliamentarian forces during the English Civil Wars in 1648.

From 1730, the castle was gradually transformed into a genteel residence and ceased its military role around 1800. Thankfully, it still stands and remains one of the finest Tudor artillery castles in England. Visitors can explore everything from the circular rooms at the top to the store rooms and tunnels at the bottom.

The route continues south along the coast, following a traffic-free cycle path. If you wish to explore the town further, Deal is actively making itself more cycle-friendly, so look out for the new maps showing places to visit, such as conservation areas, green spaces, other cycle paths and useful amenities such as public toilets and cycle parking.

Deal to Dover

The coast is always popular, but with such a long stretch of coastline and a shingle beach stretching southwards, it becomes quieter as you continue. Finding a quiet spot to call your own, and even enjoying a refreshing paddle in the beautiful turquoise sea to cool your feet, should be straightforward. Just a short pedal further along the coast brings you to some more recent and tragic history in the form of the Royal Marines Memorial Bandstand. It was built to commemorate 11 Royal Marine musicians killed on 22 September 1989 by an IRA bomb at the Royal Marines School of Music in Deal, and plays host to a popular memorial concert held in July each year. You are soon jumping back in time again as you pass another of the 42 artillery forts built under King Henry VIII’s rule. Walmer Castle became a stately home for the Lords Warden of the Cinque Ports, including the Iron Duke of Wellington, and the picturesque coastal castle is now home to more than eight acres of awardwinning gardens. With colourful displays and cool, shaded spots, as well as a fascinating history, this is a pleasant and interesting stop along your journey. Having become accustomed to the flat terrain, the climb out of Kingsdown may come as a bit of a shock to the system, but the tarmac surface is good, the vehicles few and far between, and with a cool coastal breeze it could even be described as enjoyable. After passing through St Margaret’s at Cliffe, for the moment you will need to continue along the road on NCN route 1, until it directs you to turn left near the coastguard station. Unfortunately this misses out on the fantastic South Foreland lighthouse, which offers both a café and, on a clear day, great views of the French coast. Cycling UK is in discussion with the National Trust and Sustrans about modifying the NCN route to use the well-surfaced track that leads from the lighthouse and behind the WW2 Fan Bay Deep Shelter. There are currently kissing gates at either end of the track, so until this is resolved you may have to retrace your steps a little if you decide to visit the lighthouse.

South Foreland Lighthouse

Built in the nineteenth century, its primary function was to warn mariners to steer clear of the Goodwin Sands, a ten-mile-long sandbank, three miles off shore, known as the Great Ship Swallower. These sands are constantly moving and have a quicksand-like consistency during high tide, making them dangerous to shipping. It’s said they have claimed more than 2,000 recorded wrecks. In 1872, South Foreland became the first lighthouse to use electricity, and in 1899, the first to use international wireless transmission following the invention of the radio. After surviving 142 years and two world wars, the lighthouse was decommissioned in 1988, and is now owned by the National Trust, which offers tours of the building. Visitors are treated to spectacular views from the top and see the simple, yet sophisticated, clockwork mechanism installed in 1904. Used to turn the lens and make the lighthouse flash, it still turns smoothly today. Alternatively, just enjoy some quintessential English refreshments in the tearoom, with loose-leaf tea served in china tea pots and cups and a mouth-watering choice of cakes. This section of the coast was known during the Second World War as Hellfire Corner because of the exchange of gunfire across the Channel between the British and German superguns. It’s hoped in the near future tourists will be able to visit two of the British guns, Jane and Clem, thanks to the National Trust which has purchased land at Wanstone, home to the largest of Dover's Second World War coastal batteries. The guns were installed on the site with a deep shelter, plotting room, guard room and ammunition stores. Although the guns looked impressive and were useful for propaganda purposes, they were not effective in inflicting any useful damage to the German forces. Just off the Cantii Way route is the Fan Bay Deep Shelter, an intriguing tunnel complex constructed in 1940-41 as accommodation for the British gun battery. These were integral to British defences during the Second World War. Hidden within the cliffs, the tunnels are virtually all that remains of these long-forgotten defences. Tours are available allowing you to explore beneath the white cliffs and include a visit to the Fan Bay Sound Mirrors.

This section of the coast was known during the Second World War as Hellfire Corner because of the exchange of gunfire across the Channel between the British and German superguns.

These interesting constructions were built in 1917 and 1920, making them some of the oldest surviving sound mirrors in the country. The sound mirrors were one of the first early warning detection systems ever invented. A forerunner of radar, the idea came about in 1915 by English acoustic pioneer, Dr William Sansome Tucker, to detect the sound of enemy aircraft from around 15 miles away, providing the British army an extra 15 minutes’ warning of an imminent attack.

Dover Castle

Fan Bay Sound Mirrors

Both of these mirrors here were initially cut into the chalk and lined with concrete to form the distinctive dish shape. Facing towards France, they were designed to give advance notice of approaching enemy aircraft by reflecting the sound and amplifying it to a focal point where an operator or sound collector would use a stethoscope to identify the different sounds. The operator would require specialist training and the complex task of distinguishing the sounds was so difficult, they could only work for around 40 minutes at a time. After being considered an eyesore in the 1970s, they were covered up, but the 600 cubic metres of soil has now been removed to reveal the constructions once more.

Cycling is not allowed on the cliff path, but bicycles are welcomed around the visitor centre further along the route, where there are bike racks available. So it’s best to continue along the permissive track where the route joins the road briefly and you are rewarded with a tantalising view across the valley of the mighty Dover Castle. You soon dive back off-road and descend to the National Trust car park and visitor centre, where you’re treated to superb aerial views of the busy Port of Dover docks below. Snag yourself a picnic bench here and watch the cross-Channel ferries come and go or pop into the visitor centre where you can park your bike and explore the centre or Fan Bay Deep Shelter. Finally, there is the steep descent into Dover town itself, and although you might be tempted by the more direct, traffic-free option, beware as there are lots of steps. There is a narrow ramp to wheel your bike down, but it’s easier to zip down the hill on the road and around the castle instead. Following NCN 1 (River Dour Greenway) signs help guide you through the centre of town with relative ease, although after so much quiet and traffic-free riding it’ll seem pretty busy and require care riding among the pedestrians and vehicles once again. You pass beneath an underpass which pops you back out beside the sea and back into the present day, to finish this historical section of the journey and prepare to begin the next chapter.

Further riding

If you follow the River Dour to the Alkham Valley, and Kearsney Abbey and Russell Gardens, the most popular historic parks in Dover, Cycling UK has developed a cycle route where you can not only enjoy the parks, but also explore this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty further.

cyclinguk.org/route/experience-dover-kearsney-and-alkham

Wildlife on the River Dour

The River Dour

The River Dour, a chalk stream which flows from the village of Temple Ewell, is just 6.4km long, and originally had a wide estuary and a natural harbour for Bronze Age settlers and traders on the site which is now modern Dover. The river now flows into the English Channel through a culvert at Willington dock in Dover Harbour, but is still important, being one of only 200 chalk streams in the world, making it a habitat for rare flora and fauna. Water quality of chalk streams is exceptional due to filtering through the chalk beds, and a stable temperature, enabling them to support a rich mix of botanical and invertebrate life such as river water crowfoot and starwort plants and brown trout.