CTC
Spring 2015
international
Are you a buyer? A merchandiser? A product Manager? CTC’s International training program... p. 6 www.ctcgroupe.com
News magazine
at internationa
PLF - Hong Kong, A 30 March-1st April booth 1A-A01 SAF - Bombay, I 18-20 March OSH Ind ia - Chennai, 22-23 August ghai, Moda Shanghai - Shan 2-4 September
of Shoe Industry Technicians)
Expert of the UNIDO Leather Panel
CTC has many assets in meeting the needs of businesses being both a research center specializing in leather, footwear and leather goods and a service provider in quality control. CTC is also an expert present in European standardization committees (CEN) and international ones (ISO), helping to define the standards of tomorrow. The CTC training offer is unique and very specialized, dedicated to employees of companies in the sector, whether it be for tanneries, shoe manufacturers or leather goods, through to fashion brands and retailers. However, it is in the area of quality control that CTC became famous internationally, particularly in Asia with operations in China, Hong Kong, India, Vietnam, Indonesia, Cambodia and Bangladesh, covering the main production countries of leather, footwear and leather goods. The development of CTC is based on a global offer covering all aspects a company needs when manufacturing and marketing a quality product, whilst minimizing the technical and commercial risks and by enrolling in a responsible corporate approach. This originality of a provider being both specialist and global, allows our customers to have a complete diagnosis of their value chain, from manufacturing to distribution, regardless of their size and their customers.
Development
CTC WWT CTC WWT (WorldWide Team) continues to develop with new offices in Bangladesh (Dhaka). Bangladesh will be CTC’s textile hub creating greater proximity to strategic sourcing zones and CTC’s Inspection and laboratory platform in India. CTC Bangladesh : BCS - JHK Windcel, Eastern Block, Level - 4 KA - 90 Pragoti Saroni, Dhaka -1229 Bangladesh Tel: +880 2 841 2989, 841 0956 - Fax: +880 2 841 7979 ctcbangladesh@ctcgroupe.com
CTC Service Center
3 News CTC SOLUTIONS
4 M odernising Safety. Times of change for European glove standards
In January, we saw the opening of CTC Service Center at A Shoes Houjie. CTC Service center is a one-stop picking area and documentation center dedicated to the footwear, leather goods and fashion industries.
INTERNATIONAL TRAINING
6 CTC: your new training partner in Asia!
CTC Houjie: 1042, Floor 1, A-SHOES No.5 Hujing Dadao, Houjie Town, Dongguan City, Guangdong - Chine ctchoujie@ctcgroupe.com
CTC EVENTS
7 Next CTC Seminars
Certification CTC Lyon CTC Paris CTC Cholet
CTC Shanghai CTC Asia (Hong Kong) CTC Dongguan CTC Wenzhou CTC Xiamen CTC Houjie
FRANCE
Ho Chi Minh Ville Haiphong CTC VIETNAM
NEWS
Edito
NEWS
us Come & sel e fairs
Yves Morin CEO of CTC President of UITIC (International Union
CTC continues the development of its laboratory platform services for the USA and China with the integration of CPSIA, ASTM and GB frameworks. CPSIA and ASTM are Standards development organizations aimed at protecting consumers from material and chemical risks. CPSIA is an american regulation concerning consumable products sold in USA whereas ASTM is a trusted source for technical standards for materials, products, systems and services, which companies can adhere to voluntarily.
Congress
UITIC Congress in India
The Council for Leather Exports (CLE) India will organize the 19th Congress of the UITIC (International Union of Shoe Industry Technicians) on February 3rd-5th 2016 in ChennaiIndia. Brands, footwear manufacturers and experts will join together to discuss the Future of the Footwear Factory as well as innovation in the footwear Industry. It is the first time that the UITIC Congress is being held in India, the second largest footwear manufacturing country in the world.. uitic@uitic.org
Congress in Mexico León Last november, Yves Morin, CTC’s CEO, was present at the World Footwear Congress in Leon, Mexico. He spoke on a hot topic: Consumer's need for More Assurance on Ethical and Sustainable Manufacturing in the Footwear Industry. This intervention has helped to highlight the concerns and actions of CTC but also to bring awareness to other well-known figure-heads for the need for sustainable development.
CHINA
PPE worldwide
CTC SPAIN Elda
CTC’s PPE Worldwide services in footwear and glove certification have now been extended to Russia (former GOST standards), South Africa and Malaysia. Companies targeting these countries our now able to carry out physical testing at CTC France, India or China prior to obtaining official certification for each country.
CTC PORTUGAL Porto
CTC USA Cambridge
CTC TUNISIA Mégrine
F or more information, please contact Bernard Champiré Key Account Manager bchampire@ctcgroupe.com CTC BANGLADESH Dhaka
www.ctcgroupe.com CTC INDIA New Delhi Chennai CTC HEAD OFFICE
CTC SERVICE CENTERS
CTC CAMBODIA Phnom Penh
CTC INDONESIA Surabaya
EUROPE & AFRICA
ASIA
Lyon, Paris, Cholet - France Tel.: +33 (0)4 72 76 10 17 cemarking@ctcgroupe.com Spain - Portugal - Tunisia ctcinternational@ctcgroupe.com
NORTH AMERICA CTC AGENCIES
2 [CTCinternational] Spring 2015
CTC PARTNERSHIPS
Cambridge (MA) - USA Tel.: +1 617 576 2005 ctcusa@ctcgroupe.com
Shanghai - China Tel.: +86 21 68 55 50 32 ctcshanghai@ctcgroupe.com
ASIA Wenzhou - China Tel.: +86 577 28 80 10 88 ctcwenzhou@ctcgroupe.com
ASIA New Delhi - India Tel.: +91 11 42 09 19 00 ctcindia@ctcgroupe.com
ASIA Ho Chi Minh Ville - Vietnam Tel.: +84 8 38 27 44 65 ctcvietnam@ctcgroupe.com
Dongguan - China Tel.: +86 769 23 03 77 70 ctcdongguan@ctcgroupe.com
Xiamen - China Tel.: +86 59 25 09 20 26 ctcxiamen@ctcgroupe.com
Chennai - India Tel.: +91 44 28 30 50 49 ctcindia@ctcgroupe.com
Phnom Penh - Cambodia Tel.: +855 23 962 352 ctccambodia@ctcgroupe.com
Hong Kong - China Tel.: +852 24 29 70 22 ctcasia@ctcgroupe.com
Houjie - China Tel.: +86 769 23 03 77 70 ctchoujie@ctcgroupe.com
Dhaka - Bangladesh Tel.: +880 2 841 2989 ctcbangladesh@ctcgroupe.com
Surabaya - Indonesia Tel.: +62 31 28 99 72 01 ctcindonesia@ctcgroupe.com
Spring 2015 [CTCinternational] 3
CTCSOLUTIONS AUTHOR
Jean-Claude Cannot has worked as Director of Quality and Standards at CTC groupe since 2002. He is a renowned international expert in regulatory monitoring of innocuousness, auditing and certification of laboratories, implementation of quality assurance and certification of companies. He also participates in international working standardisation committees for PPE, leather, textiles, footwear and chemical permeation risks.
CTC Solutions
Modernising Safety
Times of change for European glove standards
Modernising Safety
T
here are essentially two standards due to be modified in the coming year: EN388 protective gloves against mechanical risks, and EN374 protective gloves against chemicals and microorganisms.
EN388 PROTECTIVE GLOVES AGAINST MECHANICAL RISKS This standard applies to all kinds of protective gloves in respect of physical and mechanical aggressions caused by abrasion, blade cut, puncture and tearing. These provide protection against mechanical hazards expressed by a pictogram, followed by four numbers, or performance levels, each representing a test performance against a specific hazard.
EN374 PROTECTIVE GLOVES AGAINST CHEMICAL AND MICROORGANISMS This standard specifies the capability of gloves to protect the user against chemicals and/or microorganisms, either through penetration or permeation. It is therefore necessary to measure breakthrough times, or the time taken for the hazardous liquid to come into contact with the skin.
PROPOSED MODIFICATIONS The EN388 mechanical risks standard is one of the most commonly used standards when testing safety gloves. It currently involves four testing procedures as tearing, perforation, abrasion and cutting. In terms of the testing procedures related to tearing and perforation, nothing will change. Concerning abrasion and cutting testing procedures, the changes relate to a number of consumable products manipulated during the tests. including sandpaper, circular cutting blades and textiles. These consumables have proven unstable overtime, creating inconsistencies in the performance levels of safety gloves.
For example, the circular cutter blade used for the cut resistance test, notified body members have observed an increase in the level of sharpness of knives and blades available on the market place and of the resistance of materials used in the manufacturing of safety gloves. These findings have permitted an improvement in testing methods by addressing the evolution of functional characteristics to consumable products used in the testing procedure. Calibration procedures have been put into place to assess conformity to new consumable product specifications. In general, changes to safety glove standards include calibration processes to the consumable products employed in the testing procedure. Inter-laboratory testing has been implemented to double check the pertinence of the calibration procedures. Acquiring a new type of sandpaper has proven time consuming, although one was eventually sourced in Germany, which will then have to be certified with the EU testing requirements. Major changes to the EN374 chemical and microorganism hazards standard have come about due to the European Commission’s request to create a fusion between chemical infiltration evaluation methods applied to shoes, clothes and gloves, in order to have one simplified testing procedure.
© Fotolia - endostock
Changes to protective glove standards have been few and far between since 2003, but changes are now a necessity. Dr Jean-Claude Cannot looks at the proposed changes to glove standards due to be implemented in the coming years.
J ean-Claude Cannot Technical and Standardisation Director jccannot@ctcgroupe.com
There are two major objectives when it comes to creating a fusion between the testing procedures for shoes, clothes and gloves: -Greater flexibility by reducing the strictness of the directive -An increase in the thoroughness when it comes to the number of chemicals selected for testing Until now, the glove resistance standard EN374 part 1 constrained gloves to be tested according to three different chemical products. The new standard will first of all make available to manufacturers and companies a prelisted number of chemicals to be tested. Secondly, it will provide more flexibility, allowing them to test either one, three or six chemical substances. The standard will introduce the notion of deterioration testing of safety gloves.
NEW STANDARD EN16778 The European Committee hopes a new testing procedure will create a gain in homogeneity across the European nations. This singular method of evaluation for the whole of Europe comes in the form of the new EU standard, EN16778, which is designed to detect the presence of Dimethylformamide in the safety gloves. This standard is important because we need a high level of acknowledgment across Europe to enforce the standard. This new standard in glove innocuousness will mean revision of the general standard for safety gloves the EN420, outlining the general requirements.
CONCLUSION Technology is constantly growing, mechanical and chemical risks evolve simultaneously while protection standards were stable: it was necessary to update the standards EN374 and EN388.
CTC was among one of the first organisations to become a European PPE notified body, benefiting from a worldwide network of testing laboratories, which provided numerous advantages for manufacturers and brands. The CTC international presence offers a quick turnaround time and the opportunity to retest if required. CTC laboratories are all EN ISO 17 025 accredited. CTC is notified to deliver EC type-examination certificates for PPE and garments. CTC actively participates in the European coordination of official PPE organisation.
For more information on glove testing solutions: contactclient@ctcgroupe.com 4 [CTCinternational] Spring 2015
Spring 2015 [CTCinternational] 5
CTCSOLUTIONS
Seminars
Next CTC Seminars CTC is pleased to invite you to the following seminars. Our experts will present the latest updates with regard to safety, regulations and certification in gloves and footwear. Free entrance.
International training
CTC: your new training partner in Asia! CTC Training in China
The countdown begins. In a few weeks, CTC we will begin footwear and leather training in China, quickly followed by India in June. Whether you are a merchandiser, product manager, buyer, sales force member, store manager, in purchasing or a laboratory technician, CTC experts will guarantee expert technical training in leather and footwear conception and manufacturing.
COUNCIL FOR LEATHER EXPORTS IN KOLKATA www.leatherindia.org
This seminar will focus on standardization and testing for gloves Date: Saturday, 21 March 2015 Time: 10:30 - 13:00 Venue: 1B, 1st Floor Tel: 033-22835479/80 - Email: cleer@cleinda.com
COUNCIL FOR LEATHER EXPORTS IN KANPUR
AN INTRODUCTION TO FOOTWEAR CONCEPTION AND MANUFACTURING Focus on the footwear industry from design to manufacturing as well as a look at chemical substances. This training course will cover the following topics and benefits: > Footwear components and construction techniques What’s hot and what’s not > Different manufacturing processes What will pass tests and what won’t > Shoemaking materials What are popular and problematic > Styling and design Design that works and doesn’t & why > Sizing systems Comfort sells - The right fit is ? > Main chemical substances to check for Watch out for these health hazards > Materials sampling How to know what you’ve got is good
AN INTRODUCTION TO LEATHER MANUFACTURING Focus on leather and its characteristics from identifying different hides and skins manufacturing techniques. This training course will cover the following topics and benefits: > A detailed look at different types of leather How to recognise different species > A look at variations in aesthetic and structural aspects of leather How to recognise differences in quality > Key steps in the manufacturing process of leather Understand the impact on the quality of the final product > Main chemical substances to look for Watch out for these health hazards
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Safety Gloves, Process, Regulation and CE Certification
Training courses are available in English in Shanghai, Dongguan and Hong Kong from 23rd March to 1st April 2015.
www.leatherindia.org
Safety Footwear, Process, Regulation and CE certification The training programs will help master technical vocabulary, understand the processes and different techniques relating to footwear and leather manufacturing, as well as providing trainees with the confidence and expertise they need in bringing more accurate information to customers, ultimately helping to maximise sales in leather goods and/or footwear, and build brand loyalty.
This seminar will focus on standardization and testing for footwear Date: Monday, 23 March 2015 Time: 10:30 - 13:00 Venue: H.B.T.I Campus (Adjacent to Central Bank of India) Tel: 0512-2534198 - Email: cleknp@cleindia.com
MODA SHANGHAI www.aclechina.com
EXPERT TRAINERS French CTC experts will be managing the training courses in the Asian market. Christophe Cumin is Head of footwear training at CTC. His experience in footwear covers all major market segments: luxury, everyday and sports, with technical expertise ranging from product design and conception to shoe manufacturing and market legislation. Prior to working at CTC, Christophe worked for the footwear brand Palladium France. His colleague, Anne-Laure Leprêtre is CTC leather consultant. As a material & leather engineer, she is a wellknown figure in the leather industry, managing R&D projects at the CTC Research Center in France for 15 years, as well as managing training sessions for professionals and students and speaking at the technical congress (IULTCS).
CTC business activities. Waste Water Index Date: 2-4 September 2015 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC) Speaker: Jean-Claude CANNOT, Technical and Standardisation Director of CTC Contact: jccannot@ctcgroupe.com
REACh You will hear from CTC experts on updates of the European REACh regulation and what businesses in the leather, footwear, textile and accessories industries have to be aware of in order to make their products harmless. Date: 2-4 September 2015 Venue: Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC) Speaker: Arnaud Dyduck, Executive Director Greater China of CTC Contact: adyduck@ctcgroupe.com
This is your chance to become a specialist! Get more information at ctcgroupe.com/training or contact Charlie Zhu training@ctcgroupe.com +86 21 68 55 50 32
Spring 2015 [CTCinternational] 7
LABORATORY AUDIT Laboratory Assessment CTC Laboratory Approval Laboratory Set-Up
PHYSICAL TESTING Quality Assurance Consulting Mechanical Resistance Heat Behaviour Color Fastness Luggage Testing
CHEMICAL ANALYSIS Prohibited Chemical Analysis Leather Chemical Analysis Performance Chemical Analysis Tanning Agent Analysis Effluent Analysis REACh/GB/CPSIA
CTC SOLUTIONS FOR LEATHER GOODS PROCESS-PRODUCT-INNOVATION
Š Fotolia - Peter Atkins
Product Development Quality Product Specifications Biomechanial Assessment Wear test
SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT Ecoconception Environmental and Safety Assessment Leather Assessment Programm Arduous Working Conditions Environmental Audit Social Audit
TRAINING Industry and Methods Production and Quality Product Conception and Development Products and Materials Style and Creation 100 YEARS OF QUALITY
Worldwide leader in Quality Assurance, Consultancy and Training for Footwear and Leather Goods
FACTORY CONFORMITY CHECK In-Line Inpection Final Inspection Leather Assessment
France - Spain - Portugal - Tunisia - China - India - Bangladesh - Vietnam - Indonesia - Cambodia - USA
www.ctcgroupe.com contactclient@ctcgroupe.com