Photographer: Caitlyn Tout Model: Eloise Knapp Oversized Puffer Jacket
Contents Page Editor’s Letter Harriet Kjellman
1-2 3-10
Creating A Conscious Wardrobe
11-12
Interviewing Onimos
13-16
New Collections
17-20
Lone Design Club
21-24
New Technologies
25-26
Influencers Leading Sustainability
27-28
Editor’s Picks
29-30
1
The Black Crop Top A Line Jeans Photographer: Jade Berry Model: Catalina Cazacu
Editor’s Letter Welcome to tion of our azine, made signers and
Juniper! This is the first edisustainable womenswear magto feature independent deother sustainable collections.
Sustainability and climate change is something that I’ve been passionate about since I was in school. It’s something that has deeply impacted me and encouraged me to alter my lifestyle. As I’ve grown up I’ve learnt more and more but noticed that those around me were completely unaware. I created this magazine as a place to educate yourself on sustainability but also to inspire. Each issue will feature a variety of brands and designers, both independent and on the high street. As well as providing tips on how to adapt and become more sustainable through different articles and interviews. I want this magazine to encourage and celebrate any changes that our readers make. Remember that a small change is better than doing nothing at all and is a great step to becoming more sustainable. We know that it is impossible to become100% sustainable instantly, but hopefully we can make this transition easier.
2
3
Denim Jacket Ecru The Black Crop Top A Line Jeans Photographer: Jade Berry Model: Catalina Cazacu
4
5
The Black Crop Top A Line Jeans Photographer: Jade Berry Model: Catalina Cazacu
6
7
The Black Crop Top 3/4 Sleeve Coat A Line Jeans Photographer: Jade Berry Model: Catalina Cazacu
8
9
The Black Crop Top 3/4 Sleeve Coat A Line Jeans Photographer: Jade Berry Model: Catalina Cazacu
Harriet Kjellman
@harriet_kjellman
Harriet Kjellman is a Nottingham based womenswear designer producing a new form of denim to suit the future of fashion. This full denim ready-to-wear collection is inspired by architectural design and sees contrast stitching with raw edges, altering the traditional silhouette. Quality is the core value of the brand, as well as supporting new businesses. Products are sourced locally when possible and made-to-order to reduce waste. The aim is to produce high quality, timeless garments which will last for years to come. The high attention to detail and craftsmanship that goes into these products really show, giving these staple pieces something different.
10
Creating A Conscious Wardrobe
11
@prophecyvintage
e
Second Hand, Vintage Clothes Ultimately these are places to find designer pieces at a much cheaper price. In a sense vintage stores are a much more stylish charity shop. By reselling unwanted clothes, their life is extended whilst also giving some value back to the previous owner or charity. The value of these items is therefore retained in the economy rather than lost to landfill. Vintage stores are growing in popularity, with many places such as Shoreditch, London becoming known for them.
Re Educate Yourself It’s very easy to shop from brands not knowing how your clothes are actually made. Take a look at their website and search for their values. How transparent are they? How much is sustainability mentioned? By doing this you’ll be surprised how transparent brands actually are. Sustainable brands take pride in showing the process of their products, from beginning to end. It takes you through a journey that fast fashion doesn’t. By buying from local and ethical brands the local economy is supported as well as making a change in the industry.
Repair, Redesign, Upcycle A very simple concept, it’s as easy as learning to sew a button by yourself from a video on YouTube or possibly going to a tailor to alter your jeans to fit.The aim of this is to extend the life of an item of clothing rather than throwing it out. Redesigning and upcycling clothes gives them a new life. Possibly a chance to alter a piece to suit your desired style and fit. Sites like Depop have created a platform to sell unwanted items, although it is becoming an increasing place for redesigned clothes. This gives the buyer a sense of uniqueness to a standard item.
Timeless Pieces Fast fashion has given consumers a wasteful mindset that clothes are easily replaceable and disposable. Whilst this can be true, it is extremely harmful to our environment with unecessary amounts of waste. By investing in items that will last you several years, waste will be reduced massively and eventually push slow fashion forward. Asking youself if you will still wear an item in 6 months may change your impulse buying habits. Timeless pieces can be mix and matched within your wardrobe when buying for longevity.
12
Interviewing Onimos How did your brand begin? I’m Birgit Niederhauser and I’m the owner of Onimos. It is a vintage clothing store based in Shoreditch, London but also in Germany because that is where I am from and where the company started. I founded Onimos in 2015 and then a year ago in 2018 we moved to London. Within 3 days we had opened the store. It was a crazy move but here we are!
What makes you stand out in the fashion industry? We are different because we are Onimos. No one else is Onimos and no one else does what we do or in the same way.
Why do you love being a part of this brand? What I love about Onimos is that it is everything that I have always wanted to do. Every day I can think about what we want to do next because it is all my vision. It’s all I’ve ever hoped for to do after I finished my studies.
13
14
15
Why do people buy from you? When I started the company it was the first vintage store in the city, in Germany, and still is. Although there are a few charity stores it was the first vintage one. We want everything to be trendy so our selection is very much for young people to buy and pair with items they already own. It makes it much easier to get started in becoming more sustainable.
How does sustainability play a role in your brand? We’ve always used paper bags or tote bags because why would we want to produce more plastic just for someone to carry stuff home, it doesn’t make sense. We also ask our customers if they even want a bag because its more sustainable to not use one at all. We try to produce minimal waste by reusing almost everything.
How do you find your products? We have so many different sources, over the years we have found so many. I’m always trying to find new sources for
vintage items and we hand pick mean ing that we have to travel a lot. It is also really important to me what everyone else thinks, I really listen to their opinion and try to implement it as much as possible. To me it is very much like a little family and we are growing which is great.
How has sustainability improved in your brand since opening? Sustainability has always been important even before I started the company. It was part of me thinking about what can we do to have more than just a fashion company. I was always interested in sustainable clothing, back in Germany with vintage but also with sustainable brands and local brands as a way to give them a platform. But also a way to make it easier for people to shop sustainable clothing. We of course have a selection but then those really nice pieces that you love, not just because they are sustainable but because they look great. That was how we wanted to do it rather than telling someone you have to buy it to be a good person.. Buy it because you love it but it’s also sustainable.
16
New Collections Zara
Join
Life
In 2016 Zara released a ‘Join Life’ collection dedicated to bringing consumers sustainable garments suitable for every wardrobe. Made from recycled fibres, Tencel and organic cotton, each collection features a variety of contemporary designs. In order to care for the planet they use technologies which save water, reduce emissions and the use of chemicals during production. All garments are also made to be forest and animal friendly. These pieces were all selected to reflect a capsule wardrobe. Giving staple pieces which can be styled for any outfit. As we approach the new-year it is comfortable jumpers and thick waterproof coats that we will be reaching for. Zara gives such a selection of both staple and statement pieces suitable for this time of year. Their garments work for any age as they are easy to adapt to your individual style.
17
Collection
Oversized Puffer Jacket Hi-Rise Super Elastic Jeggings Photographer: Caitlyn Tout Model: Eloise Knapp
18
Oversized Puffer Jacket Hi-Rise Super Elastic Jeggings Photographer: Caitlyn Tout Model: Eloise Knapp
19
Striped Knit Sweater Hi-Rise Super Elastic Jeggings Photographer: Caitlyn Tout Model: Eloise Knapp
20
Lone Design Club Beginning in May 2018, Lone Design Club created a place to connect consumers with ethical, independent fashion and lifestyle brands. These emerging designers have come together for a system change against fast fashion, to celebrate slow fashion brands. Throughout the year they create concept stores as seen in London, Bristol and Milan. As well as having an online store which has become a plaform to discover and purchase from brands which are incomparable to those on the high street. Their concept stores give shoppers an experience and a chance to meet the designers themselves. Throughout their stay they put on a variety of events engaging in topics of sustainable fashion, creating your own business and empowerment. This intimate store allow shoppers to talk to designers about the story of their brand and the process of how they make their collections.
These brands give the message to encourage consumers to adapt to conscious living. With products made to last and suit your wardrobe for years to come, they are calling for an end to damaging fast fashion. The events put on at these stores are a chance to educate yourself, whether that is for a personal lifestyle change or for a sustainable business. Their most recent pop up store took place in Shoreditch, London for ‘Anti-Black Friday’ which included events such as; live podcast with ‘Fashion Originators’, Fabric for Freedom Launch, jewellery reworking workshop, sustainable lifestyle awards, their Anti-Black Friday party and more. Previous concepts have been against London Fashion Week. During the rest of 2019 Lone Design Club have concept stores for a ‘Conscious Christmas’. Taking place in London, Bristol and Milan.
“Our brand founders a place to be inspired, collaborate, inquire, learn and grow” 21
22
Lone Design Club Review
Lone Design Club’s Shoreditch store shared the concept of ‘Anti-Black Friday’. For 2 weeks in November, designers came together to showcase their brand. The idea behind the concept being to give designers what they deserve. A products price is chosen because of its quality and the design as a whole to reflect the designer’s work. I attended a live podcast event with ‘Fashion Originators’ featuring ‘Amadeus’ (jewellery brand), ‘Gung Ho London’ (womenswear brand) and Alice Rose (head of growth and operations at Lone Design Club). At first I was unsure of the event, however the atmosphere was great and it was so interesting to hear opinions from those in the industry. During the podcast they spoke about the importance of ‘Anti-Black Friday’, consumer habits, sustainable packaging, supply chain production and block chain. The brand owners agreed on the importance of producing a product to last. In ‘Amadeus’ case it is a product for generations, rather than something which won’t last 6 months. Although independent brands are typically more expensive, they also made a point that consumers will therefore take more care of their purchase. Another hot topic was wastage, smaller brands often produce fewer and less specific sizes in order to reduce waste. Along with made to order also being popular. ‘Gung Ho London’ stated that they use any waste materials to create other products like scrunchies to match a garment.
23
@LoneDesignClub @FashionOriginatorsPodcast
We also saw an insight into how Lone Design Club work. Their criteria for a brand is they must be independent and recommend to specialise in one sustainable area. This can allow for your brand to be well known for that one thing, once achieved well you can then spread further towards becoming fully sustainable. In my opinion, this was a hugely interesting and successful event, full of such a variety of people both in and out of the industry. I learned about topics I hadn’t even considered and was introduced to some fantastic brands. ‘Fashion Originators’ has now been added to my podcast list, along with other events that Lone Design Club will be hosting. If you would like to learn more or meet people with similar interests, this is the place to go.
24
New Technologies Weekday’s
size-free
At the end of 2019 ‘Weekday’s’ organic cotton jeans were named the best-selling denim product for its style and durability. The use of organic cotton results in 46% less climate impact than conventional cotton as it is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Whilst also using 62% less energy. After partnering with start-up ‘Upsun’, a size-free digital service has been developed, which will create a jean to personally fit you. A customer’s measurements will be taken by using a 3D scanner and then create a paper pattern. The product is completed within 10 days using a blueprint along with any extra detailing and personalisation. 100
25
jeans
people have trialled the service and come back with 80% positive feedback. However, before the service is able to be released to the public, there are some issues which must be resolved first, including what happens to any unwanted products. This will become deadstock and contradicts the strategy to reduce waste. Although once issues like this have been resolved, it could redefine the whole system of production. If it proves to be successful each product will have more emotional durability. As well as encourage a buy-less, wear-more mentality which many believe the industry should be striving towards.
26
27 @best.dressed
Influencers leading sustainability Meet Ashley a.k.a BestDressed Ashley is a 21 year old UCLA film graduate with a combined following of 3.5 million. Her YouTube channel documented her time at film school as well as a space to upload different fashion tips. Whether that was thrifting, look books/ styling, closet clear outs and how to sell your clothes online. Fashion was ultimately a hobby for her however it soon picked up her YouTube following and allowed it to become her full-time job. At the beginning of her career she began selling her unwanted clothes on several marketplace websites until she decided to take the plunge and make her own in 2018 (https://www. bestdressedstore.com). This is a place to extend the life of her clothes and to give them to a new home. At a similar time she began thrifting and saw that she could carry on their life. In previous videos she shows how these garments are altered to fit her style as well as tailoring them to fit her perfectly. Over on her Instagram she showcases her different day to day looks, often taken on self-timer with an iPhone tripod. Ultimately her theme and style is beautiful and a great inspiration for others wanting to gain a sustainable but stylish wardrobe.
28
29
Conflict Of Ego - Womenswear
Tala - Activewear
Editor’
Katherine Barber - Jewellery
’s Picks
Koi Footwear
Farleigh.io - Ready-To-Wear
House of Sunny - Daywear
30
£3.50