Purslane

Purslane Salad with Cucumber and Yogurt

garden treasure, underfoot and overlooked

BY BY MORRIS LEMIRE

f, when you first looked at the

title of this piece, you said, “Purslane? Never heard of it”, you are not alone. I went through two-dozen cookbooks before I found a passing reference in the dog-eared family edition of Mrs. Beeton’s, Cookery & Household Management (1960), now used mainly for historical reference. Mrs. B is somewhat dated. There is a chapter on “Domestic Helpers and Their Duties”: “Go out to the herb garden, Franny, and bring in some purslane”.

Purslane likes heat; the hotter it got last summer, the better it did. Every plant has a temperature range in which it ripens. Purslane’s range is the higher end of the scale. At ground level, between the cracks of our patio stones, it thrived in heat that was over 40° C. The tomatoes shut down, the pole beans wilted, but purslane went crazy.

Among the qualities that piqued my interest in this vegetable were its commonality, its ability to thrive without fuss or bother, and its obvious tolerance to heat, an attribute we will need going forward. As I investigated further, I discovered that it is the subject of considerable scientific interest, bordering on excitement. It turns out to be one of the few edible plants high in omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids. It’s like having salmon in your garden. Scientists are fully aware of the decline in fatty fish populations (salmon, turbot, herring);

Ithey are clearly concerned about environmental change and are beginning to promote plants suitable for future food security - a new buzz phrase. The intention when choosing lesser-known garden vegetables is to re-focus our attention on foods that are overlooked by large suppliers or linger lost in weed wilderness. When is a plant a weed and when is it not? That question may be as old as “weeds” themselves. Aldo Leopold raised it in his classic essay, “What is a Weed” (1947). More recently, Michael Pollen talks about weeds in the context of purslane in his 2008 book, In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto. If it is in your canola field competing for water

and nutrients you may think of it as a weed. On the other hand, if it is in your back yard, literally underfoot, rich in melatonin, iron and amino acids it may be more beneficial to think of it as part of your home menu.

When I noticed how well it liked the heat on the patio, I transplanted it to a designated spot in the garden, in between bricks. And sure enough it took off. The bricks absorbed the heat and kept the plants out of the mud. This also made it easier to get at. While its presence is a sign of healthy soil, hence its affinity for tomatoes, it will grow just about anywhere.

Purslane self-propagates via its tiny seeds, which can live up to forty years. However, if you have to control it, then dig it out as soon as you see the first little yellow flowers. Don’t leave any broken off bits behind, because they will readily re-root. The good news is that it can be grown in pots, and it loves a hot balcony.

Edible purslane comes in two varietals. The one most common in Alberta (Portulaca oleracea) is a free-range ground-hugger. The second (P. oleracea sativa) is taller and grows wild in India and throughout the Middle East, which helps explain its tolerance to heat. Like many desert plants, it is a succulent, (95% H2O) so you won’t have to worry about watering. It also grows throughout Europe and the U.K. where it is better known as Portulaca. Use that term if you are searching for recipes. The taller sativa varietal with its bigger leaf, is easier to harvest. You can order these seeds from westcoastseeds.com, in B.C. or Johnny’s Selected Seeds in Maine, johnnyseeds.com.

Retail availability for purslane is still limited, but it’s often found at garden centres. In the Edmonton area, Reclaim Urban Farm grows it on their plot in Leduc County, and can be found at the Edmonton Downtown

Farmers' Market. In season, they also supply Blush Lane, Mo-na, and Earth's

General Store. Phone first. If you want them to supply your restaurant or grocery store, contact them well in advance.

Purslane is a pulpy, mild tasting veg with lemony notes and hints of green flavours akin to spinach. You can eat it cooked or raw; the Italians use it in many dishes, including risotto. The

French often use it in salad, which they may have adopted from the Lebanese who put it their beautiful breaded

Fattoush salad. On the Indian subcontinent purslane is used in a myriad of ways, imagination being the only limiting factor. This suggests that we shouldn’t be shy about experimenting.

Purslane is ideal in a salad. This recipe can be quickly made as a light, low calorie lunch or as a side with supper.

It’s mild and cool - perfect for a hot summer’s day. Purslane Salad with Cucumber and Yogurt

Serves two for lunch

1 garlic clove, crushed 1 loose cup purslane, washed ½ cup cucumber, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil 1 lime To taste salt and pepper ½ cup (125 mL) yogurt

1. Rub a salad bowl with the crushed garlic clove. 2. Add washed purslane to the bowl. The stems are also edible so you can leave the smaller reddish stems on if you like. 3. Add chopped cucumber, drizzle over olive oil and toss together. 4. Squeeze lime juice over the purslane, cucumber, and oil, and stir. 5. Season to taste. 6. Add in ½ cup (125mL) of fridge-cool yogurt. Toss well and serve.

Morris Lemire lives in Edmonton where he spends the summer gardening and winter skiing. He likes winter, in part, because citrus is plentiful. He uses citrus in everything from marmalade to preserved lemons, cocktails to meringues.

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