Making The Case

For Being Prepared

By TOM FIRTH here is a bit of an old chestnut around these parts that if you don’t like the weather, wait five T minutes. Or given the blurry line as we transition from winter to spring, we don’t really have much idea at all of what to expect from nature this month.

With that in mind, my wine picks for April cover all manner of options, from big hearty reds suitable for indoor relaxing to raging bonfire, from delicate whites and reds in case the menu (or the attire) warrants something a little more suited to chillaxing. And finally, a white port which makes a deadly (and simple) cocktail, and a honey-based wine made locally, that really changes things up. Good luck out there - and keep a jacket handy!

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Hess Select 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast, California

Proof positive that even sub-$30 cabernets from California overdeliver on quality. Hess Select’s 2018 North Coast is working with high quality, perfectly ripe grapes that show in the glass. Cherry and cassis with lots of oak quality to soften the tannins and bring a little breathing room for the fruit and acids to let the palate do what it does best, makes you hungry for a good steak or roast. A great bottle to have on hand. CSPC +335802 $23-25

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

Gerard Bertrand 2020 “Change” Merlot South of France

Nothing wrong at all with finding another steal of a deal in organic red wines, this merlot is definitely made in the European style with less than plummy or jammy fruits, but herbs, tart blackberry, and a fine earthy character. Tannins are a touch prominent, but so much the better for matching with harder cheese, beef, or even bigger pork dishes. CSPC +848751 $17-18

Cathedral Cellar 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Cape, South Africa

Fairly closed up at first, but soon opens up with some fresh and prominent red fruit structures supported by some lovely blueberry notes and a clean, almost liquorice rootiness that gives it a fine level of complexity. The palate is where this well-priced cab really shines with generous fruits, softer tannins (for a cab!), and good balance. This would rock out with some pork sliders, Memphisstyle ribs, or a nice brisket. CSPC +739661 $18-22

El Picoteo 2019 Organic Red, Almansa Spain

Few countries manage to nail the prospect of value in wine as Spain. El Picoteo is a Rhone-style blend (think syrah and grenache sort of blends), but showboats a little with loads of spice, bright if slightly tart red berry fruits, and a rather surprisingly long and clean finish. A wine that is the epitome of value, but also one that will complement all manner of barbecue-style meats or dishes. Though what comes to mind is freshly made, thin crust style pizzas on the bbq… CSPC +797026 $14-16

Sokol Blosser 2018 Estate Pinot Noir Dundee Hills, Oregon

Lean on the palate with cherry/cranberry fruits showing abundant cocoa and herbal layers too. Drier tannin structures but still generous fruits and acids really help this pinot shine, but most of all, it’s the sort of pinot that is just begging for grilled salmon dishes, or a fine prime rib or beef from the smoker. One of the first wines we saw in Alberta from Oregon, and still a classic. CSPC +709556 $33-36

Evesham Wood 2018 Le Puits Sec Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon

A pinot noir that is a step or two outside of the norm. Plenty of fruits on the blueberry and cherry spectrum but fairly floral and almost jammy characters. A dark, full-bodied pinot noir that brings a lot more presence to the palate than most. Very good and drinking exceedingly well now, it would be a showstopper with a flavourful beef dish. Worth seeking out and stocking up if you can. CSPC +834750 $68-72

Gerard Bertrand 2020 “Change” Sauvignon, South of France

A new, organic offering from the very well known and regarded French label of Gerard Bertrand, this sauvignon blanc is a dialed back, but not dialed down example with fresh and clean gooseberry fruits, melon, and a bit of capsicum, but little to no grassy or herbaciousness intruding. Very, very easy to enjoy and very well priced too. Try matching with shellfish or leafy greens. CSPC +848749 $17-18

Spirit Hills Whitetail Oaked Violet Flower Wine, Alberta

Choosing to eschew the name mead, Spirit Hills is accomplishing some pretty remarkable things with their wines. Still made via some hardworking bees, this barrel-aged flower wine (violets specifically) shows only a little of its honey-like origins. Light on the nose with gooseberry and citrus aromas, on the palate it’s a very spicy, light bodied wine with moderate oak. Very different, very interesting, and quite tasty. CSPC +9858183 $21 (at the winery)

Fonseca NV White Port, Douro Portugal

I’ve made no bones that I am a bit of a port purist in my feelings on this incredible style of wine, but I take a bit of a break from it when it comes to white ports. These uncommon, fortified wines are best as an aperitif showing off a fresh almond nuttiness and mild dry fruits, and are quite a bit drier than other ports. Best of all, these wines make a stunning cocktail with tonic and a nice garnish (about 50-50 port and tonic). CSPC +727347 $22-25

Lost Peak 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley, Washington State

It’s good news indeed that we are seeing more wines from the Pacific Northwest in our market, and better news that we are still seeing more great cabernet sauvignons too. Lush on the nose with prominent blackberry and cherry fruits, while on the palate, it’s checking off so many boxes with generous, jammy fruits, a pleasing tartness, and great, understated tannins (for cab!). Messy ribs or briskets would be very suitable here. CSPC +862881 $23-25

Flat Rock Cellars 2019 Pinot Noir Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Pinot noir is one of those grapes that is perfect year-round, but also does so well in these shoulder months (is April going to be spring-like? Or all winter?). A fresh and fruit-driven pinot with blackberry leading the way, but also that expressive floral tone and spice the berry can have. A bit lighter bodied but well balanced for drinking casually, and at the table this should sing with anything from spicy pork dishes, salmon, or even great pizza. CSPC +846133 $28-30

Flat Rock Cellars 2018 Riesling Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario

Being this far west of Ontario, we tend to see more BC examples of riesling than those from east, but this is exactly the sort of finely crafted riesling that shows why we need to seek out more from the Niagara Peninsula. From Twenty Mile Bench, this bottle is sleek, perfumed, and delicious. If it had any more minerality, you’d have to drink it from a stone goblet. Not bone dry with 22 grams of sugar per litre, but impeccable and fantastic. CSPC +846129 $22-24

Hess Collection 2018 Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

A serious cabernet for a fine dinner occasion, but also one that doesn’t break the bank. A cabernet that has all the nuance of fruit (oh- there is a lot of fruit), floral notes (so many!), and clean spicy/ cedar aromas. On the palate, it’s still quite young, but the current 2018 is just opening up a little with pure fruits, smooth yet full tannins, and a long finish. A fine bottle to stock up on for the cellar, but also a fine bottle to impress your friends with. CSPC +723241 $47-$50