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Eggplant and Shrimp Coconut Curry STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

he unfortunate eggplant has been fighting off a bad reputation for centuries. Some T folks thought it would give them leprosy, cancer, insanity, and other maladies. A member of the nightshade family (which also includes potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers), eggplant contains an alkaloid that may cause inflammation but no scientific studies have been able to directly prove it. Eggplant grows on a short bush where the berries sprout and hide beneath large leaves, hence the term “nightshade”.

Technically, eggplant is a fruit (who knew?) and a berry. That’s right, a berry! It contains small edible seeds, so in botanical terms it’s categorized as a berry. How’s that for fun facts? However, in the kitchen, the eggplant behaves most certainly like a vegetable. It is a culinary powerhouse that is versatile, and oh so adaptable.

From the classic Italian eggplant parmigiana, to smoky Middle Eastern baba ganoush, to spicy Chinese stirfries and Thai-inspired curries, eggplant recipes show up in kitchens all over the world.

The eggplant is known for its ability to soak up flavours and oil. It is a literal sponge. The oil gives eggplant its characteristic creamy, luscious, buttery texture, but you may be afraid to keep adding oil to the skillet as it cooks. The key here is to add a little bit at a time, giving the eggplant an opportunity to absorb the oil.

You may have also heard that eggplant can be bitter. While the young, fresh eggplants are slightly sweet, it’s true that the older an eggplant is, the more bitter it may become. Salting eggplant will dispel the bitterness, as well as bring out its subtle, sweet earthiness. Besides, eggplant doesn’t really taste like much and definitely needs salt to help it along when it comes to flavour.

When grocery shopping, look for eggplants that are heavy, with smooth, shiny, taut skin. Avoid those that are dull and bruised, meaning they are likely

old. There are hundreds of varieties of this purple powerhouse, but the most commonly sold are large globe eggplants, long and skinny Japanese and Chinese eggplants, and medium-size Italian eggplants. Globes are great when roasted whole for baba ganoush, sliced and fried for eggplant parmigiana, or chopped for curries. The Japanese and Chinese eggplants don’t have as many seeds as the globes, and have a firmer flesh so are great for slicing and frying. The smaller Italian eggplants are tender and creamy, making them ideal for stuffing and plated individually for a show stopping entrée.

Eggplants don’t like to be stored in the fridge as their skin can get rubbery, so try to cook eggplant the day you buy it. If this isn’t possible, store at room temperature for 2-3 days out of direct sunlight.

To highlight eggplant’s ability to soak up mega flavour, I decided to make it the key ingredient in this Thai-inspired curry. Cubes of eggplant are sautéed in a skillet with oil and aromatics such as onion, garlic, chili, ginger, and spices. Coconut milk makes everything lush, while lime juice adds a brightness that balances out the heat of the chili pepper. I love shrimp here, but you could easily add tofu to keep things vegetarian. I added chopped chard, but handfuls of spinach would work too. There’s a lot of flavour here, and the eggplant surely shines because of it. Eggplant and Shrimp Coconut Curry

Serves 4

3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oil 1 onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 small green chili, (deseeded for less heat) finely chopped 1 Tbs minced ginger 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 1 medium eggplant, cubed (about 5 cups/1.25 L) 2 cups cherry tomatoes, some halved 1 cup (250 mL) vegetable broth 14 oz (400 mL) can full-fat coconut milk 4 cups chopped Swiss chard or spinach 450 g raw tiger shrimp, peeled 1 lime, juiced ¼ cup chopped cilantro ¼ cup chopped basil 1. In a large sauté pan, warm 2 Tbs (30 mL) of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, chili, and ginger, cooking for another 2 minutes until fragrant. Stir in the spices, salt, and pepper, along with remaining oil. Cook, stirring frequently for another minute. 2. Add the eggplant and sauté for 2 minutes, stirring to coat it thoroughly with the spice mixture. Stir in the cherry tomatoes. 3. Pour in the vegetable broth. Increase the heat to high, then when it boils, turn the heat down to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes, until the eggplant has softened. 3. Stir in the coconut milk and chard. Simmer for another 5 minutes until the sauce has thickened and the greens have wilted. 4. Stir in the shrimp, lime juice, herbs, and a pinch of sugar. Simmer for another few minutes until the shrimp turn pink and are cooked through. Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Serve immediately over bowls of steamed rice.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, Vegetables: A Love Story has just been released.

Three cheers for cocoa

• 4 oz. brewed coffee (decaf optional) • 1 oz. Creme de Cacao • 1 oz. Cointreau • 1 oz. Dark Rum • 1/2 oz. Vermouth • 1 tsp Dutched cocoa powder • Ice for shaking • Optional – Milk or Dark

Chocolate Shavings

Cococo Chocolate Martini / thanks to www.CutCooking.com

1. If you plan to rim the glass with Cococo Chocolatiers Chocolate Shavings, go ahead and do so first. (Hint: use a bit of light corn syrup to help the shavings to stay in place) 2. Combine coffee, liquors and spirits in cocktail shaker. 3. Add Cococo Chocolatiers Dutched Process Cocoa Powder to the cocktail shaker. 4. Add cubes of ice, place lid on shaker and shake well. 5. Using bar strainer, pour 2 Cococoffee Martinis into prepped glassware. 6. Decide if your evening at home is black dress or fluffy slippers. Cheers!

Wishing you comfort & joy.

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