Making The Case

MAKING THE CASE The Spice of Life

By TOM FIRTH

It’s justifiably said that variety is the spice of life, and given the unrelenting nature of our slightly cloistered lives since early 2020, a little variety can breathe a little freshness into our day to days.

Our November issue of Culinaire usually focuses a little on the spicy, though with wine, spice is a little tricky to focus on. Some wines do have a dominant, spicy pepperiness, or notes like clove, herbs… or many others, but instead this month I’ve looked for a range of wines that might have a little of that spicy character, but also those that might be a breath of fresh air for a tired palate. They’re from different regions of the globe, different grapes, different approaches – but all suitable for crisp wintery days. Or in nine months or so when spring comes along.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Tenet 2018 The Pundit Syrah Columbia Valley, Washington

An exciting home for this popular grape, the Columbia Valley’s expression of syrah is typically more smoky and earthy over the spice and floral examples from Europe. Here, the fruits are plush and deep, with prominent tannins and loads of food friendly acids. The sort of wine that near begs for tenderloins, or a tri tip, smoked meats or a great charcuterie board. . CSPC +826612 $35-39

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

689 Cellars 2018 Killer Drop Napa Valley, California

Built around grenache with about a third syrah, and a smidge of petite syrah. Look for strawberry and cherry fruits, with loads of spice and a floral character that keeps the magic going. Weighty and spicy this is the sort of glass that looks great, tastes great, and is a solid match with spicy dishes or dishes with a little fattiness over those chilly months. Drink now. CSPC +782867 $40-45

City & Country 2017 Okanagan White Alberta

Yes, that isn’t a typo, this is from the only grape winery I know of in Alberta. Using sourced grapes from the Okanagan Valley, but vinified in Calgary, it’s also the only winery tasting room one can visit in Cowtown. Made with chardonnay and about 15 percent of semillon, it shows off all the right sort of chardonnay character, with milder oak notes and a slightly spicy finish. This was also a winner at the 2020 Alberta Beverage Awards. CSPC +801272 $25-27 (or winery direct)

Sattlerhof 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark, Austria

Sauvignon blanc from New Zealand seems to be the version most are familiar with, with a lesser awareness of those from France or even from Chile, but in Austria it’s a well-loved, home-grown variety. A floral and very spicy sauvignon blanc, with lime fruits and very little of that gooseberry or cut grass character. Fresh and lively with stunning acids and clean, generous fruits on the palate - it’s a shame we don’t see more Austrian wines here. CSPC +785297 $26-38

Penfolds 2018 St. Henri Shiraz

For those that follow vintages closely, 2018 was a pretty good year in parts of Australia. And for those that like premium shiraz, this is a very nice bottle to have in the cellar for when the need arises. Very much on the youthful side at the moment, historically St. Henri matures nice and slowly, with an expected range between about 2025 to about 2040 or so. CSPC +751692 $150-160

Faber 2020 Grenache, Swan Valley Australia

Grenache is best known in places like Spain and France, but many countries have a healthy history of their own with this incredible grape, and Australia too with their famous GSM blends of grenache, shiraz, and mourvèdre. Fairly light on the palate, about the same weight as a pinot, but with a deep and pure fruit expression and beautiful spices too. Try pairing with pork or charcuterie. CSPC +849501 $43-46

689 Cellars “Obey” Master and Servant 2018 Cabernet, Napa Valley, California

Cabernet sauvignon dominant, in every sense of the word, with a few drops of merlot, this is a big, bold, ripe cabernet for the cellar or for the table. Classic flavours with a fine, silken texture (for cab), tightly wound tannins, and expressive fruit and barrel tones, this is exactly the right sort of wine to accompany those big, meaty dishes Albertan’s love so much. Try a big beef tenderloin, or top quality burgers from the grill. CSPC +782045 $47-52

Scala Dei 2016 Cartoixa, Priorat, Spain

Wow, simply put, a stunner from start to finish. Deeply laden with cherry and strawberry fruits, abundant floral tones, and a slightly woody and earthy base. Made with grenache and a little carignan, it’s not too heavy and not too dense to enjoy simply for the sake of a nice glass of red. This was a fine bottle to enjoy while the sun was shining, and would be at home with grilled meats like pork or something with a great marinade. CSPC +808497 $48-55

José Maria da Fonseca 2016 José de Sousa Tinto, Alentejano, Portugal

One of the best things about Portuguese wines is that they positively exude that authenticity of place that we wine folks like to call “terroir”. Utilizing a blend of local or indigenous grapes, this red is from the Alentejano region, a wide swath of land in the southern half of Portugal. Intense berry presence on the palate with a touch of herb and woody/smoky flavours, this will be a great bottle for smoked meats, briskets, or smokies. CSPC +396689 $22-24

DeMuerte 2019 Blanco Sobra Lias Yecla, Spain

A verdejo-sauvignon blanc blend from the Yecla region of Spain, it’s also a bit of an unusual combination. The nose is a stunner with fresh honey, a pleasing grassiness and bell pepper aroma, and a bright, lime-citrus tone. The palate is zesty, but also very refreshing with not too much presence from the sauvignon blanc, but making for a clean, quaffable wine – a little further from the norm. This would be excellent with freshwater fish or lighter fare. CSPC +830335 $21-23

Penfolds 2019 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz

Sometimes referred to as “Baby Grange” (which of course is one of the premium, near $1,000 a bottle from Penfolds), Bin 389 is a stand-alone, stalwart of Australian wine. A blend of almost equal portions of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, this is a wine that punches well above its weight and price, delivering opulence and character for any aficionado. A world-class wine from start to finish – and a great bottle to have nearby in the cellar. CSPC +749925 $105-115

Faber 2019 Petit Verdot, Swan Valley Australia

We don’t see tons of petit verdot in our market, but a disproportionate number of those we do see, seem to be from Australia, where this minor Bordeaux blending grape manages to shine brightest on its own. Faber is hitting this one out of the park, letting dense, opulent floral characters lead the way for rather plummy, almost jammystyle fruits. Try this as an alternative to high end American zinfandel or a big malbec at your next barbecue. CSPC +849500 $44-48

Hillside 2020 Gewürztraminer Naramata Bench, British Columbia

A long-time producer of gewürztraminer in BC, and one of my favourite examples, Hillside knows how to work with this variety. With a bare pinch of sweetness, the intense floral aromas easily come through showing off lime, quince, and yes – lychee too. Summer may be over, but a pretty little number like this will easily recall the longer days of summer. Perfect on its own, but will be a fine support to sushi, or dishes with a nice splash of fruit. CSPC +505200 $21-23