MAKING THE CASE
The Spice of Life By TOM FIRTH
It’s justifiably said that variety is the spice of life, and given the unrelenting nature of our slightly cloistered lives since early 2020, a little variety can breathe a little freshness into our day to days. Our November issue of Culinaire usually focuses a little on the spicy, though with wine, spice is a little tricky to focus on. Some wines do have a dominant, spicy pepperiness, or notes like clove, herbs… or many others, but instead this month I’ve looked for a range of wines that might have a little of that spicy character, but also those that might be a breath of fresh air for a tired palate. They’re from different regions of the globe, different grapes, different approaches – but all suitable for crisp wintery days. Or in nine months or so when spring comes along. Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
689 Cellars 2018 Killer Drop Napa Valley, California
Built around grenache with about a third syrah, and a smidge of petite syrah. Look for strawberry and cherry fruits, with loads of spice and a floral character that keeps the magic going. Weighty and spicy this is the sort of glass that looks great, tastes great, and is a solid match with spicy dishes or dishes with a little fattiness over those chilly months. Drink now. CSPC +782867 $40-45
City & Country 2017 Okanagan White Alberta
Yes, that isn’t a typo, this is from the only grape winery I know of in Alberta. Using sourced grapes from the Okanagan Valley, but vinified in Calgary, it’s also the only winery tasting room one can visit in Cowtown. Made with chardonnay and about 15 percent of semillon, it shows off all the right sort of chardonnay character, with milder oak notes and a slightly spicy finish. This was also a winner at the 2020 Alberta Beverage Awards. CSPC +801272 $25-27 (or winery direct)
Tenet 2018 The Pundit Syrah Columbia Valley, Washington
An exciting home for this popular grape, the Columbia Valley’s expression of syrah is typically more smoky and earthy over the spice and floral examples from Europe. Here, the fruits are plush and deep, with prominent tannins and loads of food friendly acids. The sort of wine that near begs for tenderloins, or a tri tip, smoked meats or a great charcuterie board. . CSPC +826612 $35-39
Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.
38 Culinaire | November 2021
Sattlerhof 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark, Austria
Sauvignon blanc from New Zealand seems to be the version most are familiar with, with a lesser awareness of those from France or even from Chile, but in Austria it’s a well-loved, home-grown variety. A floral and very spicy sauvignon blanc, with lime fruits and very little of that gooseberry or cut grass character. Fresh and lively with stunning acids and clean, generous fruits on the palate - it’s a shame we don’t see more Austrian wines here. CSPC +785297 $26-38
