Indigenous Cuisine | Egg White Cocktails | Spirited Coffee Drinks
ALBERTA / FOOD & DRINK / RECIPES SEPTEMBER 2024
8 Book Reviews:
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Cookbook by Jennifer Schell Lirag and Homemadeish “Recipes and Cooking Tips That Keep it Real” by Lauren McDuffie
Making the Case … why the details matter
38 Open That Bottle
With Chris Lorway, president and CEO of the Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity
September is harvest time, and our markets are full with ripe, fresh, produce. We can have our fill of colourful fruit and vegetables, and late summer is the perfect time to enjoy fresh corn; it’s plump and juicy, and ready for picking in August and September. Many thanks to photographer Katarzyna Kowalewska for her photo on our cover this issue. We’re ready to cook up corn in all sorts of dishes!
10 Hunt, Gather, and Share…
Exploring and understanding Canadian regional Indigenous cuisine and recipes from Indigenous chefs by Linda Garson and Keane Straub with Janine Windolph
19 Supporting Indigenous Artisans
26 Eggsplaining Egg White Cocktails
Some of the world’s most famous cocktail recipes include egg as an ingredient… by Shelley Boettcher
28 Lovin' Spoonful: Fresh Corn Polenta
Explore Indigenous food and drink businesses and their products by Linda Garson
20 Quick Cooking for Easy Dinners
All you need is 35 minutes or less to make these healthy and tasty meals by Natalie Findlay
24 Much More Than a Snack Mitsoh aims to preserve and share Indigenous culture too by Lucy Haines
Polenta has evolved from a basic foodstuff to a cherished component of Italian cuisine by Renée Kohlman
30 Beer Styles Getting the Love they Deserve Part 2
More beer styles are becoming the norm and part of many breweries’ core menus by David Nuttall
32 September Spirits …ten coffee-flavoured spirits for your autumn evenings and weekends by Tom Firth and Linda Garson
Back to work…
Not that we ever stopped; our hugely successful, twelfth Alberta Beverage Awards takes up most of July –thanks to all that entered their products to be judged, we can’t wait to bring you the results next month to guide your holiday beverage choices and throughout 2025!
And I haven’t stopped moving, with trips to Edmonton and Banff; a flying visit to Yellowknife to pair wines and talk about them at the second annual NWT Culinary Festival dinners; as a guest to Wisconsin’s Door County for the cherry and lavender harvests, and also in southwest Italy –Sicily, Naples, Ischia, and Sorrento, for their prickly pears, peppers, pistachios, and other foods and wines of the region. All wonderful and memorable learning experiences that I hope to share with you in future Culinaire articles.
And there’s more to come, with our Edmonton Treasure Hunt on September 15 (you’re not too late to register for it!) and
our Wine and Culinary Tour to Alsace and Champagne later this month.
In this issue, and in advance of September 30 Truth and Reconciliation Day, also known to some as Orange Shirt Day, we've turned our focus towards Indigenous cuisine; what it includes, and how it differs across the country; and to learn more ourselves and amplify their voices, we asked Indigenous chefs for their thoughts and experiences, and to tell their stories too.
We’re encouraged to see some more options for Indigenous cuisine becoming available to us, such as our two elevated dinner experiences at Little Chief next month, and I hope the interest continues to grow.
Cheers,
We love to hear from you and what you like or if things aren’t working for you, and this email made our hearts sing (and our tummies rumble!). Thanks to Jennifer B for her message, and to Natalie Findlay for her delicious recipe on page 15 of our July/August issue.
‘Hello, I attempted, and succeeded at, making the Warm Shrimp and Corn Dip from the July/August edition to take to a dinner party. It was fantastic! Served warm and cheesy out of the oven, this appie was a fan favourite!
Renée Kohlman, David Nuttall Keane Straub, Janine Windolph
Our contributors
Renée Kohlman
Renée is a professional cook and baker, freelance food writer, and columnist for the Saskatoon StarPhoenix. She's also the author of two bestselling cookbooks: All the Sweet Things (TouchWood Editions, 2017) and her most recent Vegetables: A Love Story (TouchWood Editions 2021). Renée lives in Saskatoon and you can find her every weekend at the Farmers’ Market where she sells her jumbo gourmet cookies.
Contact us at:
Culinaire Magazine
#1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802
Shelley is an awardwinning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She’s the author of the bestselling books, Uncorked: The Definitive Guide to Alberta's Best Wines $25 and Under, and currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits, or Instagram @shelleyboettcher.
For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Janine Windolph
Janine (Atikamekw/ Woodland Cree) is a storyteller, curator, and filmmaker living in Banff, and the Director of Indigenous Arts at the Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity. Janine has her Master of Fine Arts Interdisciplinary: Media Production and Indigenous Fine Arts. The National Film Board features three of her films; Lifegivers: Honoring Our Elders and Children (2007); Stories Are in Our Bones (2019), and Our Maternal Home (2023).
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. We are committed to support Indigenous chefs and amplify their voices to bring awareness of the food and culture of the First Nations.
LetsTalk@IntercityPackers.ca 825-901-9050
IntercityPackers.ca 13506 159 Street Edmonton, AB
Proudly printed in Alberta by Burke Group.
Congratulations to Gail Norton on Calgary’s Cookbook Company Cooks’ 40th anniversary! We all know how challenging it is for small businesses, and from opening a cookbook store in a little house on 17 Avenue SW in 1984 (and selling your first book, The Betty Crocker Boys and Girls Cookbook) to the acclaimed cooking school, and much more, and still to be one of only two independent cookbook stores in Canada, is impressive!
And congrats to the winners of YYC Ice Cream Fest 2024: Tajrish Market & Bistro for Best Overall Ice Cream, Hey Sugar for the Golden Scoop Award selling 378 scoops during the festival, and to Apprentice Café who took the award for Best Dairy-Free Ice Cream. The real winner though is Calgary Meals on Wheels, as Ice Cream Fest is a crucial part of their fundraising efforts.
Edmonton’s Aloha Poke and Grill has opened a second location at 8716 109 Street NW, in Garneau. Choose Mainland Style, Mini Mainland, and Hawaiian Style Poke Bowls, and your choice of two toppings, to go with the furikake Japanese white rice and salmon or tuna poke, or go for a pork burrito, inari (a filled pouch of seasoned fried tofu), or kalua pig! Lunch and dinner seven days, alohagarneau.com
Maisie Eatery is open in the Sam Centre, the new 30,000-square-foot home to the fun and fascinating, interactive Stampede exhibition. Former owner of cocktail bar and restaurant, Cleaver, executive chef Barbara Spain is at the helm,
naming the café after her grandmother, and she’s created a daily changing menu of breakfast and lunch dishes for this counter-service restaurant. Choose from a selection of well-executed and temptingly presented salads, sandwiches, savoury pies and pastries, and from the sweet side of the counter filled with impressive cakes and other baked goods. There are happy-hour cocktails, and Maisie also hosts private evening events in this bright, modern space. 632 13 Avenue SE, seven days 8am-5pm. maisieeatery.com
Two years planning and a year in construction, Fat Ox is open in Banff, and it’s very, very good! Creative Group’s (Bonterra and Posto in Calgary and Rose & Crown in Banff) new venture is adjoining High Country Inn, in the Tichino location, which was taken down to the studs for a total renovation, resulting in this warm and inviting, rustic, 97-seat space. There’s a communal group table and plenty of bar seating, and it’s 100 percent accessible, with a table that raises and lowers for wheelchairs. Chef Glen Manzer is overseeing the food program, with the original Tichino team, including Chef Michael Samson, in the kitchen. Fat Ox has a small, elevated menu of appetizers, four excellent salads (we ate them all!), seven pasta dishes (no pizza!), and a handful of mains including steaks, a giant veal chop saltimbocca, and whole lobster risotto, with an extensive wine list and boozy and fun cocktails - aperitivo hours too, and a children’s menu for miniature gourmands. And did we mention breakfast? Do it! Service staff wear jeans with white shirts, green aprons, and suspenders, and the hospitality is as good as the food. 415 Banff Avenue, fatoxbanff.ca
Chef Daniel Ramon is his own man, he wants to do what he wants to do - and he wants to work with flour. Working on his own pizza spot for nearly three years, now with chefs Jeremy Ouellette and Jordan Lawton, Pizza Letty (named for mother, Laeticia) is offering ‘neo-Neapolitan’ pies – Ramon’s 48-72 hour cold ferment crust is a unique combination of buckwheat flour with sourdough for flavour, and yeast for controlling the ferment. But there’s much more to love in this 50-seat room with its exposed concrete walls – an exemplary, seasonal small plate menu (don’t miss the grilled prawns, and be prepared to get messy!), Kat Brodie’s clever, crafted highball cocktail list, Friday lunch and weekend brunch. 247 12th Avenue SE, seven days 4pm-close. pizzaletty.com
Next door to Letty, at 1225 Macleod Trail SE, is Otie Bakehouse (short for ‘overtime’), where you’ll find more of Ramon’s flour handiwork. It’s all about quality here, whether focaccia sandwiches, laminated dough pastries, or desserts created by pastry chef María de los Ángeles Delgado, along with coffee from Chronicle Coffee Roasters. Seven days, 7am-4pm, otiebakes.com
Sherwood Park has a new Italian market – but there’s a lot more to discover at L’Oca. In the totally refurbished Rona space, and three years in the making, you’ll find an impressive 45,000-square-feet of food - to eat in, to take home and eat, and to take home and cook - from the bakery, the expansive butcher’s shop, the pasta station, specialty cheese and deli counters,
fresh produce market, refrigerated and frozen sections, and gelateria, with juice and smoothie bars, and lots of samples to try! There’s a Flora bar to build your own display, as well as kitchen and housewares for your home. And two restaurants - Oro serves up modern Italian fare, while Pyro’s menu focuses on steaks and dishes from the charcoal grill and wood forno. L‘Oca labs is a demo kitchen, and L’Oca Cellars is a boutique liquor store. Owned by a local Edmonton family, and supporting local producers, L’Oca has already provided 300 jobs, and there are ambitious expansion plans - watch out Red Deer and Calgary! 340 Baseline Road, seven days 8am-9pm.
Kensington’s Bombay Tiger now has a sister - Ninja Tiger, a 44-seat restaurant with a completely different menu of Chef Prasad Patil's Maharashtra (Mumbai is the capital) coastal region home food, many of them totally new to us. There’s a lot to enjoy here: Kalava Masala - oysters cooked in onion masala; Marathwada Magic, cooked and served in a mini pressure cooker; superb chicken curries; baked-in-house paav; and plenty of veggie, gluten- and dairy-free dishes. The star is the thalieleven seafood, chicken, vegetable, or mutton dishes, including soup, raita, salad, and pickles. The cocktail and mocktail program is strong here too, try the signature sourfruit Kokum Fizz! 412 Memorial Drive, 5-10pm, closed Tuesdays. ninjatiger.ca
Edmonton has three new coffee shop cafés! In addition to their Jasper Avenue location, Coffee Bureau have opened their second, and larger, café in
the Mercury Block at 12316 102 Avenue, with Viateur Bagels still overnighted fresh from Montreal every week to pick up on Wednesdays. Common Ground Coffee is now open 8am-5pm at 2727 182 Street SW, and Deville Coffee have now opened a second location at West Edmonton Mall in addition to their Macewan University Samu Building space. devillecoffee.ca
With inner-city development forcing Calgary’s Mikey’s on 12th to relocate, chef Alli Said has started afresh with his new Don Taco, a take-out only taco joint (with a bench at the front for those who can’t wait to scarf down their tacos) in the Highwood neighbourhood, at 4121 4 Street NW. Living out his passion for casual Mexican food, Said is keeping it friendly and simple, with a choice of his delicious mix-and-match toppings on soft tortillas. Watch for his own bottled hot sauce, and rumours of a second location coming soon! Seven days lunch and dinner.
St. Albert has a new restaurantSorrentino’s (Buco and Caffè Sorrentino too), have opened Argos Bar Bistro serving up ‘Northern Mediterranean cuisine’. Choose from Spanish/Greek tapas at the tapas station, ciabatta with spreads, salads, and the signature ‘Pae-sotto’ for 2-4 people – a blend of paella and risotto with chicken, chorizo, or black truffle and porcini. ‘Land and Sea’ rounds out the mains (Seafood Bouillabaisse, yay!), and gyros are coming soon on the lunch menu. There’s a large patio, a full cocktail list, and weekly specials at Tapas Hour. 150 Bellerose Drive, seven days lunch and dinner.
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery Cookbook
by Jennifer Schell Lirag $45
Jim Wyse, founder of Burrowing Owl Estate Winery, has a philosophy in everything to “get it right first time”, and it’s stood him very well in the thirty years since he sketched his vision for a winery on a napkin in 1994.
And it follows through to this cookbook, it’s their first and we love everything about it. There are 15 threecourse menus, one for each Burrowing Owl wine (plus a holiday menu) with recipes from Midge Wyse, the primary cook for the family, to pair perfectly with each (or you can mix and match as you like), and notes from daughter Kerri. We love that they’ve included tips on
wine pairing, and suggested some really chill, family favourite albums as music pairings too!
We’re no strangers to these wines, and luckily always have several on hand to try with the recipes. I’m spoiled for choice between starting with the viognier recipes (p.61) of Grilled Peaches, Burrata, and Smoked Trout Paté; Apricot Coconut Chicken Curry; and Spanish Almond Cake; or the pinot noir recipes (p.91) of Wild Mushroom Crostini; Cedar-Planked Salmon with Chili Rub; and Chocolate Cake… but then the cabernet franc menu (p.123) of Stuffed Mussels and Venison Bourguignon is calling my name too… decisions, decisions!
And when you see the beautiful photos accompanying each recipe, honestly you could start anywhere with any wine, and be very happy. Burrowing Owl did it again Jim! burrowingowlwine.ca/shop.
Homemade-ish
“Recipes and Cooking Tips That Keep it Real”
by Lauren McDuffie Gibbs Smith $53
We see A LOT of books around the office, and it’s getting rather difficult to sort as we all advocate for different books that capture our attention. (Quick tip – it’s best to look through the first time on an empty stomach!). What really stood out here for me was the very wide assortment of dishes and sides that I’d want to enjoy at home, with family and close friends. Casual, tasty dishes with loads of flavour, dishes that can be served family style – or in many cases enjoyed by someone grabbing the “last one” with fingers instead of a utensil.
Well sorted into a number of chapters with significant attention to breakfast
(agree 100%), but also dips, bowls, meatless mains, poultry, beef and so on. Of particular interest were the “Mall Pretzels” (p.39), “Cheesy Corn and Pickled Pepper Dip” (p.42), there is a lot in between, but one can certainly see the appeal in “Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic” (p.134) and a hearty “WTF?” for that – which you know will be delicious. All in all, everything is well photographed by the author, with clear instructions, and a number of dishes take advantage of prepared or semi-prepared ingredients offering time savings without compromising on flavours or final appearances. A fine addition to your cookbook shelf.
BY LINDA GARSON AND KEANE STRAUB WITH JANINE WINDOLPH
We have long held the belief that one of the most fascinating and rewarding ways to learn about a culture is through the food of the people: the available ingredients that influence the style of the cuisine; the method of cooking, seasoning, serving, and eating, that all add to our understanding of what life is like in different places – and the hope that a greater understanding leads to a greater appreciation for it.
It was during a recent conversation about Indigenous cuisine with Janine Windolph (Atikamekw/Woodland Cree), and Director of Indigenous Arts at the
Banff Centre for Arts and Creativity, that a lightbulb went on – of course when we’re talking about Indigenous cuisine it isn’t one thing across the country – how could it be? Salmon isn’t local to Alberta, and neither is muskox or cloudberries –we have bison and saskatoon berries! Further investigation reveals six broad geographical regions for First Nations people based on their traditional cultures: Arctic, Sub-Arctic, Northwest Coast, Plateau, Great Plains, and Northeast, and so we set out to understand more of the ingredients indigenous to each of these areas, as well as talk to Indigenous chefs to ask
them about their ingredients. It isn’t simple: there are around 630 First Nations communities across Canada, representing more than 50 nations and dozens of Indigenous languages.
“Indigenous cuisine is fluid, it's active, embodies stories, and is continuously evolving with each generation of Indigenous chefs,” explains Windolph. “Within their dishes and their hospitality practices they weave together the past, the present and the future.” And Indigenous peoples have lost so much of their written history and culture that now it’s mostly spoken rather than set down in writing.
Indigenous people have been gathering as families and nations to trade for thousands of years. “It was here that feasting, ceremonies, hunting, foraging, and trade took place with other Indigenous peoples from Turtle Island,” Windolph says. Sacred Buffalo Guardian Mountain, in Banff, is one such place, having been a meeting place for all that time, and just one of many locations where this type of gathering took place.
“Presently, the exchange of ingredients is easier to find and more accessible in grocery stores, farmers’ markets, even sourced by Indigenous foragers, farmers and hunters.
Indigenous chefs, cooks, and caterers are continuing to foster the spirit of reciprocity, exchange, and celebration with their menu options that highlight their cultural and regional ingredients,” she adds.
September 30th is Orange Shirt Day, The National Day for Truth and Reconciliation, and a day to remind us of the residential schools and honour the healing journey of survivors and their families. This article is by no means all-inclusive, but we hope you also gain a greater understanding and appreciation of Indigenous cuisine, the chefs, and their stories.
Additional resources:
We have only scratched the surface of Indigenous cuisine here, and there are many resources available for a greater understanding. To learn more, check out:
tawâw: Progressive Indigenous Cuisine by Shane Chartrand [pronounced ta-WOW]: Come in, you’re welcome, there’s room. strongnations.com/store/8153/ tawaw-progressive-indigenous-cuisine
Canada Culinary celebrates Canadian food and drink by highlighting the people, places, and stories that define it. Their website is a terrific resource for Indigenous food experiences across the country: canadaculinary.com/ search/?query=Indigenous
Spectacular Northwest Territories is the website for Northwest Territories Tourism and is full of fascinating stories and information on Indigenous experiences. spectacularnwt.com
First Nations Health Authority (FNHA)
The FNHA is the health and wellness partner to over 200 First Nations communities and citizens across BC. They produce ‘Traditional Food Fact Sheets’, a fascinating book you can download at: fnha.ca/Documents/Traditional_Food_ Fact_Sheets.pdf
Indigenous Awareness Canada offers Online Indigenous Awareness Training for everyone to learn about Canada’s Indigenous People: indigenousawarenesscanada.com
Canadian Bison
The Canadian Bison website includes bison recipes and cooking tips as well as more resources canadianbison.ca/consumers/ enjoying-bison/cooking-tips
Also: thecanadianencyclopedia.ca and britannica.com/topic/Plateau-Indian
Chef Denia Baltzer
Creative
Cuisine Catering
Growing up in Liidli Kue, NWT, Chef Denia Baltzer was surrounded by family that to this day hunts and harvests. Gatherings were centred around food which she says formed an emotional connection with what she cooks. “The food I make stems from the knowledge that what we eat feeds more than just our bodies. The energy and intention it is cooked with carries over to those we are feeding.”
As owner and chef of Creative Cuisine Catering, Chef Denia has fun creating new dishes based on foods she grew up eating and still craves to this day. While it’s difficult to choose a favourite ingredient from where she currently lives and works in Rocky Mountain House on Treaty 6 Territory, lake trout stands out for a few reasons. “To me, lake trout signifies the cleanliness of the water in the north, and their flesh has a clean, fresh taste and holds up to all sorts of cooking methods.”
She adds that while it’s versatile, it's best served as simple as possible. “Less is more,” she says, and her recipe for Pan Fried Trout with Birch Syrup Glaze is exactly that. Any kind of trout is suitable to use, and the birch syrup can be substituted with maple syrup.
Pan Fried Trout with Birch Syrup Glaze
Serves 4-5
5 trout fillets, 90-115 g each
2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil
To taste salt and pepper
1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice
4 Tbs (60 mL) birch or maple syrup
1 tsp butter
3 Tbs fresh parsley
1. Heat a large cast iron or non-stick skillet over medium heat.
2. Once it is very hot add the oil, add the trout skin side down, and season with salt and pepper.
3. Let the trout cook without disturbing it for 3-4 minutes, the skin will become nice and crispy and golden brown.
4. Using a thin metal spatula, carefully flip the trout, at this point add the lemon juice, birch or maple syrup and butter. Cook for another couple of minutes-until the fish is cooked through.
5. Remove to a serving dish and pour the pan juices over, sprinkle with parsley and enjoy!
When Chef Jenni Lessard is feeling stuck for a recipe or menu, she heads outside and takes her cues from nature. Her business is aptly named Inspired by Nature Culinary Consulting: “The contrasting colours of sage growing next to lipstick red rose hips or even a swoosh of dark cloud against a sunset sky might inform my next dish.”
Chef Jenni Lessard
Inspired By Nature Culinary Consulting
She grew up in Northern Saskatchewan, but today she lives in the Qu’Appelle Valley on Treaty 4 Territory. “Since moving here I’ve started to learn more about bison and how important they were in my family’s Métis culture. From ground meat to liver, I find connection and nourishment when I cook and eat this incredible animal.”
She points out that bison goes well with berries, and so she’s started using local saskatoons and chokecherries more often. “My fingernails are perpetually purple near the middle of August during the chokecherry harvest!”
Here, she shares a recipe for Bison Tenderloin with Yarrow and Sage. Bison isn’t tricky to cook but she adds, “Unless you’re braising low and slow, don’t overcook it.”
Bison Tenderloin with Yarrow and Sage
Serves 4
4 bison filets, 150 g each
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp dried yarrow*
2 tsp dried ground sage
2 Tbs butter
2 Tbs bison tallow or lard
4 cloves garlic, minced
1. Season bison with the salt and pepper, yarrow, and sage on both sides.
2. Heat cast iron or other heavy bottomed pan until almost smoking. Add butter and tallow/lard and reduce heat a little.
3. Add garlic and cook about 30 seconds, until fat is melted, and sizzling and garlic is starting to brown.
4. Place bison in pan and cook about
3 minutes before flipping.
5. Baste the second side with the garlic and fat in the pan. Cook another 3 minutes or so until the internal temperature reaches 135º F (medium rare). Let rest a few minutes before serving.
* Dried yarrow can be wild harvested or purchased from borealhartland.ca
tastings. It’s Indigenous inspired food, but also Canadian Northern inspired,” he explains. “Canada is world class!”
A member of the Enoch Cree Tribe from Treaty 6 Territory, he recently established his own business and is now the Executive Chef of Neyhiyaw SC Cuisine. Ingredients such as bear fat and wild onions are high on the list of his favourite, but elk tops it. “Elk is part of my childhood. My family hunted it, and we ate it a lot.”
Chef Shane describes elk as rich, but delicate, and says care must be taken when preparing it. “Elk is wild game, and it’s very lean. And like any wild game it can be overcooked. Treat it carefully, and be mindful of the animal.”
Seared Elk Rack with Purple Onion, Crushed Haskap Berry and Apple Sauce
Serves 2-3
3 small green apples
2¼ cups (560 mL) grapefruit juice
28 g cinnamon
Pinch of allspice
Pinch of nutmeg
1 cup haskap berries
1 whole elk rack
To taste kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper
50 g minced garlic
1 cup (250 mL) sunflower oil
2 whole bulbed purple onions
1. Poach the apples in the grapefruit
Chef Shane Chartrand
juice with cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg. Once fork tender, blend all the ingredients to create a light apple sauce with a hand blender or processor.
2. Take the haskap berries and squish them flat and strain off the juice leaving just a nice meaty, sweet berry. Add them to the cooled apple sauce and gently mix.
3. Season the rack of elk generously with salt and pepper and rub with minced garlic.
4. Heat up a heavy cast iron pan and add 50-75 mL (3½-5 Tbs) oil. Sear in a heavy cast iron skillet to create a dark crust on
the elk loin. Take elk off, set on a heavy tray or heavy pan and put in a 400º F preheated oven. Cook about 15 minutes until it reads 125º F on your thermometer.
5. Take out of the oven and rest for 15 minutes.
6. Coat the bulbed purple onion with oil and roast in the oven with skin on until lightly soft. Peel off the skin, rough chop, sauté and set aside.
7. Cut the rack of elk in to chops. On a long rectangle plate nape apple sauce all the way down diagonally. Then add the onions and the elk chop on top evenly down the plate and enjoy.
Restaurateur Inez Cook Salmon N’ Bannock
Restaurateur Inez Cook is a member of the Nuxalk Nation, from Bella Coola, BC. A child of the Sixties Scoop, Inez was taken away from her Indigenous family as a child and adopted by a nonIndigenous family. Growing up, she says there was always something missing. “I grew up without my culture, without my heritage, without my biological family,” she explains. “I was yearning for my culture my whole life.”
Having an early start in the restaurant industry, she dreamed of having her own restaurant one day, but her career took a different direction – several, in fact, as she eventually began working in the airline industry, living in Saudi Arabia, Africa, England, and India. “Once I had all of this knowledge of culture from all around the world my dream was to take people on a journey through food.”
Eventually she established Vancouver’s only Indigenous restaurant, Salmon N’ Bannock. It wasn’t an easy journey, but the best ones never are. Inspired by her world travels, much of the menu reflects Inez’s global inspiration and palette, created with local, Indigenous ingredients.
“Recently we came up with the idea of following the diet of bears in Bella Coola. So, what we did was infuse blueberries with buffalo sage, and then
use that as a marinade for salmon.” She shares that recipe with us here.
Sage Blueberry Smoked
Salmon Serves 4
1 cup frozen whole blueberries
1 cup mashed frozen blueberries
2 cups (500 mL) water
1 cup sugar
5 g buffalo sage (in a disposable tea bag)
4 sockeye salmon fillets
To taste salt and pepper
A little buffalo sage to smoke
1. Combine the whole blueberries, mashed frozen blueberries, water, sugar, and sage (in a teabag) and bring to a boil. Set aside.
2. Once cooled down place sockeye salmon filets in a shallow pan and immerse with three-quarters of the sage blueberries.
3. Add salt and pepper to taste and cover with foil. Marinade in fridge 4-12 hours.
4. Heat oven to 400º F and bake salmon for 10-12 minutes. Remove from oven.
5. Take a ramekin and place some buffalo sage in it, light it and cover pan with foil for 10 minutes, then serve with rest of sage blueberries heated up for garnish.
Chefs Michael and Marshal Crowchild
Grey Eagle Resort and Casino
Chefs Michael and Marshal Crowchild are on a mission to share the voice of their people through the food they create. Working at Calgary’s Grey Eagle Resort and Casino on the Tsuu Tina Nation allows them freedom to create endless combinations of local ingredients. “Everything is told through food, stories, history, and culture,” explains Chef Marshal.
Southern Alberta has a vast range of ingredients that can be used, like fish, poultry, beef, and wild game. “Using wild game is something we both want to see more of,” adds Chef Michael. “Using recipes from elders and turning them into works of art gives our people a voice, and sharing the stories passed down allows others to experience our culture through food.”
The inspiration behind their recipe for Rabbit and Carrots Two Ways was to pay homage to their roots while showcasing the ingredients. “We put this together with the thought of keeping true to our Indigenous roots by using snow hare, a protein not commonly used, and pairing it with garden carrots. Cooking it two ways allows for different flavours and textures,” says Chef Michael.
Chef Marshal adds: “Take your time removing the loin of the rabbit. Use small, focused cuts. Don’t feel you have to rush –cooking is therapeutic.”
Rabbit and Carrots Two Ways with Sweet Garlic Aioli, Saskatoon Gastrique, and Herb Sponge
Serves 2
1 skinless whole rabbit
To taste salt and pepper
To taste sugar
3 Tbs thyme, divided
3 Tbs rosemary, divided
4 sprigs sage
5 garlic cloves, crushed, divided
2 shallots, sliced, divided
1 bay leaf
Cooking oil of your choice
Sage leaves for loin
Butter for basting
1. Remove whole loins from rabbit including whole back legs, set aside for later.
2. In an oven-safe pot, season your rabbit legs with a pinch of salt, pepper and sugar. Add remaining ingredients.
3. Add enough oil to submerge your rabbit legs.
4. Pre-heat oven 250º F and cook rabbit for 2-3 hours until tender but not fall off the bone.
5. For the rabbit loin season all sides with a pinch of salt, pepper, sugar, and lay it flat. Lay sage leaves on top, roll tightly and truss with butchers’ twine.
6. In a pan, add the oil on medium heat.
Next, add rabbit loin and sauté on each side until brown.
7. Add butter and remaining herbs and spices to the rabbit loin and baste the loins well with butter, cooking until internal temp has reached 160º F. Remove and let rest for 3-5 minutes.
Carrot Puree
3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil
2 shallot, small dice
3 cloves garlic, small dice
1 tsp juniper berries
4 large carrots, medium dice
To taste salt
2 cup (500 mL) stock or water
Add olive oil to a deep pan on medium heat. Once hot, add the shallots and garlic, sauté until fragrant - do not burn garlic! Add juniper berries and carrots and continue to cook for 5 mins. Season to taste. Add stock or water and bring to a boil, cook until carrots are tender then blend until smooth in a food processor.
Confit Carrot
2 carrots
2 tsp rosemary
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 shallots, sliced
To taste salt
2 cups vegetable or olive oil, as needed to submerge carrot
1 tsp juniper berries
In an oven-safe pan add all ingredients and submerge in olive oil. Pre heat oven to 250º F. Once oven is up to temperature, add pan and cook carrots until tender. To serve, place pan on stove top and sear one side of carrots until caramelized.
Sweet Garlic Aioli
2 eggs
2 Tbs (30 mL) Dijon mustard
2 Tbs (30 mL) apple cider vinegar
To taste salt
2 cups canola oil
1 tsp sweetgrass essential oil
Whisk Dijon and eggs together until combined, still whisking add apple cider vinegar and slowly pour oil into mixture. Keep whisking until it starts to emulsify and thickens. Add essential oil and correct seasoning.
Saskatoon Gastrique
1/3 cup water
1 cup sugar
1 cup saskatoon berries
2 tsp apple cider vinegar
Add water, sugar, and berries into a small pot and place on medium high heat to bring to simmer. Add apple cider vinegar and stir for 2 mins, strain and keep sauce and discard pulp.
Herb Sponge
50 g flour
4 eggs
50 g sugar
50 g parsley, minced
Pinch of salt
Add everything to a bowl. Whisk until fully combined. Let sit for 5 minutes in fridge. Strain and remove left over parsley. Whisk until frothy then place into microwave safe cup, cover with wrap, and cook for 1 minute. Once done, remove from cup and tear into small pieces.
Chef Scott Iserhoff
Pei Pei Chei Ow and Bernadette’s
For Chef Scott Iserhoff of Pei Pei Chei Ow and Bernadette’s in Edmonton, inspiration is centred on a sense of simplicity: childhood memories, life experiences both in and out of the kitchen, and beautiful produce. A member of the Attawapiskat First Nations in the subArctic region, several staple foods have significance for him.
“Goose, moose, whitefish, and berries are very important as they surround the area and are local food sources. They’re the foods my family harvested, and I grew up eating.” Of those ingredients, berries are easily incorporated into several dishes. “They bring me memories of berry picking
with my parents and grandparents, watching the berries being preserved or just eating them fresh.”
They can be enjoyed in several ways, too. “Do not let berries go to waste. You can always freeze them, turn them into jam or compote, make shrubs, or dehydrate them.” Overripe berries can be used, too.
“Meenishapiy is a berry drink that we make in house,” explains Chef Scott. “It literally means ‘berry water’ in Omushkegowin.”
“Mix equal parts of berries, vinegar and sugar and let it ferment in an airtight container for 48 hours. This process will produce a shrub that can be added to teas, soda, dressing, etc.”
Chef Steph Baryluk grew up in the Gwich’in community of Teetl’it Zheh (Fort McPherson) and says she was very fortunate to observe her parents during harvest and processing season along the Peel River. Her inspiration comes from the Gwich’in people.
“With residential schools and the generational trauma, this is a way I can share our culture in a good way. When I’m cooking I think of my granny, my jijuu, our elders and my parents. At one point in our history we were not allowed to practice our culture. So today I share as much as I can.”
Chef Steph Baryluk
Simon Fraser University Rooted Indigenous Foods Program and Rooted Menu
Nature Culinary Consulting
Whitefish is a staple in the Gwich’in diet, explains Chef Steph, and growing up along the Peel River (branching off from the MacKenzie River) means that it is readily available. “Our community has relied on the whitefish for generations before and hopefully generations after.”
One of her favourite whitefish dishes is one her mother, Mary Ross, makes – a simple pan fry of fish fillets accompanied by wild cranberries, blueberries, and salt and pepper to taste. “I like it when the ingredients speak for themselves,” she says. “Throughout my culinary journey, I keep in mind what I was taught from my Gwich'in upbringing: respect your food, use only what is needed, and share.”
Pan Fried Whitefish Fillets with Sweetgrass Beurre Blanc Serves 4
2 whitefish fillets, skin off cut into
110 g pieces
1 cup all-purpose flour
To taste salt and pepper
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
4 Tbs (60 mL) olive oil
2 Tbs unsalted butter
1. Dry fish fillets with a paper towel. Combine flour and all spices in a small bowl. Sprinkle seasoning on all sides of fish.
2. Heat a heavy bottom non-stick pan over medium high heat and add oil and butter.
3. Once heated put the fish filet into the pan. Depending on thickness the fish will cook very quickly. Carefully flip the fish.
4. Remove from the heat and pour pan juices over the fish. Garnish with chopped parsley and sliced lemon.
Sweetgrass Beurre Blanc
Yield: 1½ cups
½ cup dry white wine
2 Tbs (30 mL) lemon juice
1 medium shallot, minced
To taste salt and pepper
¼ cup (60 mL) heavy cream
10 cm piece dried sweetgrass
2 cups unsalted butter, cubed
1. In a heavy bottom saucepan, bring the white wine, lemon juice and shallot to a low simmer.
2. Whisk in the salt, pepper and cream. Add in the dried sweetgrass to infuse the flavour.
3. When barely bubbling, slowly whisk in a few butter cubes at a time until all are added and fully melted. The sauce will thicken. If you don't keep the temperature low and whisk continuously, the sauce will separate.
4. Pour the sauce through a fine mesh sieve to remove large pieces of seasoning, sweetgrass or shallot.
Chef Steph garnishes her dish with pea shoots, radishes, salad leaves, and beet chips, and just a dribble of good oil on the sauce.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.
Mitsoh Pemmican
We’re particularly fond of pemmican because it’s denser, and with fat in the mix, generally softer to chew than jerky, and usually with berries too. Mitsoh have made it easier for us to find here in Alberta with their food truck and widely available handy pemmican strips – and we love that it’s bison, mixed with nothing more than maple syrup, sea salt, smoke, and lots of pepper. Available as Maple Saskatoon Berry, Maple Blueberry, and a limited-edition Maple Strawberry, as well as Maple Blueberry with no pepper. 23 g $5, mitsoh.com
Bangin’ Bannock
Strengthen your impact by exploring these other Indigenous businesses
White Buffalo Coffee Co. are local Edmonton coffee roasters supporting Indigenous farmers and sourcing their coffee through experienced, socially and environmentally aware Fairtrade purchasers. Their products all meet the seven ‘Smudge Certified’ criteria as well as the ‘Seven Grandfather’ values and teachings. Read more and order online at whitebuffalocoffeecompany.com
One of the best ways to connect with a culture – at home or abroad - is to try the food with an open mind and an open heart. Bannock is a quick or no yeast bread, typically fried, that has strong indigenous roots and is absolutely tasty as a part of a meal or a quick snack with a lot of flexibility when it comes to additional flavours or spreads. Bangin’ Bannock is ready to go and easy to make (though if you can try it in the hands of an expert- we suggest you try it there too!). 500 g around $12, banginbannock.ca
Authentic Indigenous Seafood Candied Salmon
You know, when you buy something from a company that cares, it makes you feel good too. Authentic Indigenous Seafood is one of these companies; partnering with small to medium-size Indigenous-owned fisheries who have sustainably sourced their fish for thousands of years. We love everything about their shelf-stable candied salmon which comes in a choice of Wild Keta, Wild Pink, and Wild Sockeye (in beautiful packs and that are all traceable sustainably harvested!), and we can’t stop snacking it! 60 g $10-12, authenticindigenousseafood.ca for stockists and more.
Hot drinks with a message (and more stunning packaging)! Kebaonish is an Indigenous and woman-led coffee and tea company who aim, cup by cup, to bring people closer to harmony, restoring the connections between people, land, and water. Their striking teas are all different blends inspired by Anishinaabe Seven Grandfather Teachings of Honesty, Love, Wisdom, Truth, Humility, Bravery, and Respect. Our favourite is Wisdom – a super antioxidant moringa green tea that tastes vegetative, a little toasty, and a little minty too. 30 sachets, 54 g $10-12, proudlyindigenous.com
Boreal Heartland Herbal Products Inc. is based in Air Ronge, northern Saskatchewan, and an initiative of Keewatin Community Development Association, a non-profit organisation supporting economic development in the region. Their products range from harvested and foraged loose-leaf teas and tea bags – including pure Labrador, or Muskeg tea; energization and restoration teas; hard to find seasonings such as spruce tips, yarrow, alder pepper, and dried chanterelle mushrooms whole or powdered. borealheartland.ca
NWC Wild Rice Company is a group of Cree, Dene, and Metis communities who farm and harvest green wild rice in Northwest Saskatchewan. Shop online for bags of organic, Grade A large or medium, or broken, wild rice. nwcwildrice.ca
Miskamâsowin Foods Inc produces ready-to-make bannock and fry bread mixes, available at all Makers Keep stores in Edmonton, Sherwood Park, and St. Albert, The Painted Door on Main Gift & Gallery in Beaumont, and Sobeys Northgate Mall, with more listings coming soon. miskamasowin.ca
Edmonton’s Indigenous Box works with more than 300 Indigenous suppliers to promote and elevate their work and create opportunities for them to reach new customers by retailing their products through their online store as well as offering a variety of curated gift boxes. They also offer a seasonal quarterly subscription box filled with Indigenousmade products and custom boxes for corporate gifting. indigenousbox.ca
Quick Cooking for Easy Dinners
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY
Back to school, back to work, back to crazy schedules - how much time is left for cooking dinner? Well, all you need is 35 minutes or less to make these healthy and tasty meals.
Making meals from start to finish requires dedication and a fair bit of time. Once the school year restarts, time and dedication to cooking gets whittled down as other priorities take centre stage.
These 35-minute meal recipes will make the September transition easier. Plus, if you double or triple the recipe you can make enough for lunches.
Another great habit that will take the stress off cooking is doing meal prep on weekends. I promise this won’t take up all your weekend time. If you spend one hour on the weekend chopping vegetables, cooking rice or quinoa, boiling some eggs and planning
your meals and lunches for the week, you will gain back more time during the week for all the other things you have to do. Try it. You will be pleasantly surprised.
Spicy Mexican Salad
Serves 4
4 chorizo sausages
1 cup (250 mL) mayonnaise
8 pickled jalapeños, roughly chopped
1½ Tbs (22 mL) pickled jalapeno juice
1 (425 g) can black beans, rinsed
8 cups romaine lettuce, cut into
2 cm pieces
2 cups corn, fresh or thawed from frozen
12 grape tomatoes, halved
2 green onions, thinly sliced
2 ripe avocadoes, cut into 1 cm pieces
1 lime, cut into 4 wedges, to serve
½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
Note: To cut the romaine lettuce hearts into 2 cm pieces, cut each heart in half lengthwise and then cut each half lengthwise into quarters. Finally, cut each quarter crosswise into 2 cm pieces.
Weekend Prep: chop romaine, slice green onion, make jalapeño mayo.
1. Preheat a large sauté pan over medium heat.
2. Slice the sausages into 2 cm pieces and add to the pan. Let cook 10 - 12 minutes, or until cooked through.
3. Whisk mayonnaise, jalapeño and pickled jalapeño juice together in small bowl.
4. Add beans to the sausages to warm through (approximately 3 minutes).
5. Add romaine to a large bowl and toss with the jalapeño mayo.
6. On a large platter, add the romaine, sausages and beans, corn, tomatoes, green onion, avocado slices, lime quarters, and cilantro (if desired).
Feta & Chickpea
Quinoa Salad
Serves 4
2 cups previously cooked quinoa
1 can (425 g) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
½ cup cucumber, diced
12 kalamata olives
¼ red onion, thinly sliced
1 tsp garlic, minced
1/3 cup (80 mL) extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp (5 mL) apple cider vinegar
½ lemon, juiced
1 tsp oregano, roughly chopped
¾ tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp sea salt
¼ tsp black pepper
¼ cup feta, crumbled
½ cup parsley, roughly chopped
1. Pull quinoa out of the fridge.
2. Add quinoa, chickpeas, tomatoes, cucumber, olives, and onions, to a large mixing bowl. Toss until everything is combined.
3. Make vinaigrette dressing by
combining the garlic, olive oil, apple cider vinegar, lemon juice, oregano, Dijon mustard, salt and pepper, to a jar with a lid and shake to combine.
4. Add the vinaigrette, feta and parsley to the mixing bowl and gently stir to combine.
Note: You can still make this salad even if you don’t have quinoa cooked. It only takes 25 minutes to cook from dry. While the quinoa is cooking you can prep the other ingredients.
Weekend Prep: make quinoa, dice cucumber, slice red onion, make vinaigrette.
Cauliflower Rice and Salmon Serves 2
2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil (divided)
4 cloves garlic
½ tsp dried thyme or 1 tsp fresh
3 cups cauliflower rice (see note below)
2 Shanghai choy or baby bok choy, ends trimmed
1 Tbs butter
2 fillets salmon
½ lemon, juiced
1 tsp capers
To taste sea salt and pepper
1. In a sauté pan, over medium-low heat, add 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil.
2. Add garlic and thyme and cook 1 minute then add the cauliflower rice. Cook for 4 minutes.
3. In another sauté pan, over mediumlow heat, add 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil along with 1 Tbs (15 mL) water and the Shanghai or baby bok choy. Cook for 4 minutes.
4. In a small sauté pan over medium heat, add the butter. Lay the salmon, skin side up in the hot pan and cook 4 minutes.
5. Flip the salmon and cook skin side down for 3 minutes or until salmon is cooked through to your preference. Remove salmon pieces from the pan.
6. Add the lemon juice and capers (you can add another knob of butter if you like) and cook 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Serve the cauliflower rice with the salmon on top drizzled with the lemon caper sauce and the Shanghai choy on the side.
Note: You can buy cauliflower rice in the grocery store or you can make your own: In a food processor, add roughly chopped cauliflower and pulse till it is the size of rice grains. If you don’t have a food processor, you can roughly chop the cauliflower with a knife until you have small pieces of cauliflower the size of rice grains.
Weekend Prep: make cauliflower rice.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.
Vine & Dine at Primary Colours
September 5 and 18
We're excited to be bringing Vine & Dine to Chef Matthias Fong’s Primary Colours. They’re opening specially for us for two nights in September!
Castello di Bolgheri Super-Tuscan Winemaker Dinner at Modern Steak
Southport, September 7 We’re in the private dining room at Modern Steak Southport, for a special 4-course dinner with Max Schwiesfurth of Castello di Bolgheri and his Super-Tuscan range.
Vine & Dine at Aama Restaurant
September 12 and October 30
We’re coming to one of Cochrane’s best restaurants! We’re at Aama for two 6-course dinners of outstanding Nepalese food, carefully paired to complement Chef G’s menu!
Champagne Charpentier Winemaker Dinner at The Living Room
September 16 Stephanie Creyssels of Champagne Charpentier in France, is coming to Calgary for the first time this September for a one-off special winemaker dinner for only 25 people!
Special Viberti Winemaker Dinner at Bar Chouette, October 9
3rd generation Claudio Viberti of Viberti Giovanni winery in Barolo, Italy, is coming to Calgary for a one-off special six-course winemaker pairing dinner!
Vine & Dine at Bar Chouette, October 17 and 29 Chef Duncan Ly has hosted us for multiple Vine & Dine evenings at Foreign Concept, and now we’re excited to be coming to Bar Chouette, his new French-influenced restaurant.
Indigenous Cuisine Experience October 11 and October 26 Two special, elevated and curated, premium 6-course Chef’s Table dinners of
creative, modern Indigenous cuisine in Little Chief’s new private dining room for just 20 people!
Chefs Table Shoe & Canoe Kitchen Party, October 18 and November 22
We’re in the upstairs kitchen at Delta Downtown Hotel again for Chef Eugene’s elevated 6-course pairing menu!
Luxury Wine & Culinary Tour of Champagne and Alsace, September 20-October 1, 2025 From the pristine 13C medieval town of Colmar to the grandeur of the Champagne region, discover the historic regions and cuisine of east and northeast France.
New events are added regularly so check vineanddine.ca as these evenings can (and do!) sell out quickly! Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places, and to be included in our bi-monthly updates. We try to cater for all allergies.
Much more than a snack:
Mitsoh
aims to preserve and share Indigenous culture too
BY LUCY HAINES
It is said when you’re passionate about your work, it doesn’t really feel like work. For Ian Gladue and his Indigenous enterprise Mitsoh (‘eat’ in Cree), it’s much more than roundthe-clock attention put into a flourishing business. It’s his life. And what a life. Drugs, homelessness, a life-altering accident – every step has led Gladue, (who comes from Wabasca First Nation on Treaty 8 Territory) to where he is today, sharing his culture and traditions while growing Canada’s first national Indigenous food company.
Gladue’s rapid rise (first with Native Delights food truck and restaurant, and now the wholesale and online brand of dry meat snacks, Mitsoh), is impressive, coming about a decade after his lifelong love of cooking led him to create Edmonton’s first Indigenous food cart. “I failed the inspection to get the okay for the cart, probably eight times. But I just
couldn’t give up. It wasn’t in me,” Gladue says, pointing to a stubbornness he’s had all his life. “It’s partly why I left home at 13 and made my way to Edmonton. For many years after, I was taking and selling drugs, and had a lot of money in my pocket. It was all about living for the day.”
Gladue’s story (which he now shares with Indigenous youth and at other motivational speaking engagements), included years spent couch surfing and living on the streets, working on the oil rigs, selling and using drugs and alcohol, and even enduring two stints in jail, until his first child was born. It was a real wakeup call. “I looked in the mirror one day, and saw that drugs had consumed me. I quit right then and there. I wanted more for my daughter, more for me,” Gladue says.
Fast forward a few years of saving money (though the plan was derailed when he sustained burns to over 25 percent of his
body in a workplace accident, thus ending the career on the rigs). After months in hospital re-learning to walk, and working to forgive others and, most importantly, himself, Gladue returned to his first love – preparing food in kitchens and concessions. “I let go of a lot of anger and I finally did pass that food cart inspection. I had a dream of working for myself, and I hadn’t given up on that.”
His first effort, dubbed Mercedes (for his first daughter), became a hit when Gladue started selling bannock burgers and ‘native’ tacos in Edmonton’s Churchill Square on weekday lunchtimes to a public eager for that cuisine. “We blew up on social media. I saw how popular Indigenous food could be, but until then, it had only been available at Pow Wows,” he remembers. “I was determined to change that; to bring it to the city and expose it to other Canadians too.”
A food truck came after the food cart,
(at local events like K-Days, A Taste of Edmonton, Folk Fest, Big Valley Jamboree and more), and then the restaurant –Native Delights, on 118 Avenue. After a couple of years spent showcasing bannock burgers and Rez dogs, it was the burgeoning sales of dry meat (Pânsâwân), which revealed a different path forward.
“Success with the food truck and restaurant was my goal. But people kept asking to order the dry meat, and that part of the business just took off,” he says. “I started to see my bigger purpose – to preserve and share my culture; to teach about Indigenous traditions.”
As Mitsoh launched during the pandemic, Gladue (with wife and co-founder Rondell), made the difficult decision to shut down the restaurant and go all in with dry meat/pemmican sales.
“We had been kicking butt. Everyone knew who we were. But I had to swallow my pride and shut the restaurant to refocus my time and energy on Mitsoh,” Gladue recalls, adding Native Delights hasn’t disappeared completely. Thanks to catering and some summer events, the bannock burger lives on. “At the time, I told my mom I still felt something was missing, that I wanted to give back more. Over the previous years, I had received thousands of messages from Indigenous people saying, ‘You inspire me,’ I hadn’t even realized the impact we were making on our people.”
Gladue says he watched his mom cutting meat one day when the answer came to him: “What could be more authentic to Canadian cuisine than our own, original foods?’
Now, with Mitsoh, it’s all about authenticity. Dried bison meat, prepared
traditionally as Indigenous ancestors have done for centuries, is mixed with prairiesourced berries (saskatoons, blueberries, strawberries) and a bit of maple syrup, smoke, and salt and pepper to create pemmican sticks (a higher end jerky-type snack) sold at over 600 retail stores across the country, online and locally through Uproot Collective. Bulk bagged dry meat is also part of the product line for public and wholesale/retail sales.
Brandon Markiw is Mitsoh co-CEO, a food industry pro who jumped on board with Gladue after hearing his story over a coffee meetup a few years ago. “I met Ian and two weeks later, we were in business together; five months later I became his partner,” explains Calgary-based Markiw, who founded the Groundswell Food Group which produces a few brands out of the Food Processing Development Centre in Leduc. “I’m obsessed with these meat snacks. It meets my personal criteria for a natural quality snack, and it resonates with athletes, hikers, backpackers. It’s a high protein, gluten free ‘superfood’ with no additives, no preservatives,” Markiw says. “We took Pânsâwân through the pandemic and have repositioned it for mass market appeal. It is going mainstream.”
Gladue acknowledges there’s a movement underway in the country; a hunger to embrace an Indigenousled business partly because of efforts/awareness around Truth and Reconciliation. But there’s also a desire for authentic, unique, experiences around the country’s founding foods, traditions and culture. Mitsoh is a perfect fit, Markiw says, pointing to its place in a booming food category (part of the $12 billion US snack industry in North America, and
the emerging sub-category of ‘better-foryou’ snacks). Mitsoh pemmican sticks are already being distributed across the country, sold in big groceries, convenience stores, health/organic spots, hotels, gift shops, to school boards and first responders, and potentially to industrial camps in Northern Alberta.
But just as important to Gladue, if not more so, Mitsoh gives him a platform to tell his story and that of others affected by intergenerational trauma and residential schools; of those who’ve lost homes, land, or their native languages. “I’m a spiritual man – I see all of this as a blessing,” says 46-year-old Gladue, now a dad to six (Mercedes and Paige, and four boys; Bodhi, Kai, and twins Kaelo and Maz).
Living on an acreage near Beaumont with his mom and auntie, Gladue says he’s more connected to his community than ever; hosting occasional sweat lodges since he got clean and sober in 2013, and consulting with elders on major decisions around his company.
As the company continues its rapid trajectory, Gladue says work is still a 24/7 venture, and balancing it with family is the next short-term goal. But in the meantime, he’s finding great satisfaction in creating a food that nourishes body and spirit, and honours the deep connection to his heritage. “It’s been a leap of faith,” he adds. “But we’ve always believed in what we’re doing. It’s exactly what we wanted to happen.”
Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.
Eggsplaining Egg White Cocktails
BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER
The Ramos Gin Fizz and its predecessor, the Gin Fizz, depending on who’s making it. The Pisco Sour. The Pink Lady. The Whiskey Sour. And — let’s not forget — a rich, rum-spiked eggnog.
Look closely at some of the world’s most famous cocktail recipes, and you may see egg as an ingredient. Egg whites give certain boozy drinks a light, white, fluffy layer. The spirits settle into the bottom of the glass, while the egg white floats, forming a delicious meringue-like foam on top.
The egg white won’t make a cocktail taste egg-y. Not at all. “But they make a drink a little smoother. They can help emulsify the ingredients,” says Calgary mixologist Greg Williams.
“And they just make the flavours all come together a little better.”
Williams, the Concorde Group’s Bar Operations, Logistics and Liquor Control, is not alone in his thinking. Bartenders have added egg to their concoctions for generations. Posset, a cold and flu remedy in England in the Middle Ages, called for hot milk with spices and wine or ale; somewhere along the way, eggs were added in, a sort of early eggnog. A few hundred years later, in 1892, the whiskey sour first appeared in print in Jerry Thomas’s Bartender’s Guide, the world’s first cocktail recipe book. And references to Peru and Chile’s famous Pisco Sour — likely based off the whiskey sour — date back at least to 1903.
Calgary mixologist Greg Williams
My 1968 paperback copy — the 28th edition (the first was published in 1940) of The Bartender’s Guide, by Patrick Gavin Duffy, is slowly crumbling into dust. But I pull it out from time to time for research and for fun. Recipes containing eggs are scattered throughout the time-worn pages — a Wassail punch for Christmas calls for 12 whole eggs, as does the Pendennis Egg Nog. Named for a club in Louisville, Kentucky, it contains 12 eggs, a bottle of bourbon, a pound of sugar and two quarts of whipped cream. And there’s an entire section on flips: typically just a spirit, sugar, and a whole egg.
Whatever you aim to make, less is more, Williams says. Even half an ounce of egg white can be enough for one drink. “As long as your sugar and egg white are equal, you’ll get that really good foam,” he says. “Then, the secret to success is a dry shake,” he adds. Basically you combine your ingredients, including the egg white, in your shaker, minus the ice, and shake vigorously so that the white is emulsified. Frothed. Foamed. And then add the ice. Keep it cool, baby. Keep it cool.
Indeed, any discussion on eating raw eggs has to include a conversation around food safety. Wash your hands thoroughly before and after making egg white cocktails, and consume your creations quickly. Don’t leave them sitting around at room temperature for a long time. Put your eggs in the fridge promptly upon buying and use them before the expiry date on the carton. If you find a broken egg in the carton, discard it. And if you’re still concerned, pick up a carton of pasteurized egg whites and use those instead. The texture may be slightly different — “They don’t foam as much,” Williams says. Overall, however, egg white is actually pretty good for you. It’s high in protein and contains folate, selenium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and potassium. Does that convince you to head for the
nearest happy hour to do some taste testing? Then you’re in luck. It’s hard to find a restaurant cocktail list that doesn’t contain at least one egg white-based drink. Head to Bar Clementine in Edmonton for the Zookeeper, made with Bengal teainfused scotch, amaretto, banana, lemon, orange and — you guessed it — egg white. Also in Edmonton, Baijiu’s Baijiu Sour is a delicious combo of Remy Martin VSOP, Baijiu, five spice syrup, lemon and… yes, egg white. Egg white is also in the China Rose cocktail at Fu’s Repair Shop in Edmonton, along with Skyy Vodka, Good Day Lychee Soju, hibiscus and ginger syrup, citric acid and lemon.
At Shelter in Calgary, you can sign up for cocktail-making classes that teach the finer points of three cocktails, plus how to use egg whites to make a perfect sour. At Proof, also in Calgary, the For the Hour contains Suntory whisky, St. Germain, lime, coconut genmaicha (Japanese brown rice tea) and egg white.
And Williams cemented his place in Calgary cocktail history with the creation of the Lonely Mouth Sour. A longtime home bartender, Williams didn’t turn pro until he was in his 30s, working at Catch and then Bridgette Bar before joining Lonely Mouth when it opened in 2021. The Lonely Mouth Sour was one of the first drinks he invented there, and it quickly became a bestseller.
Lonely Mouth Sour
“It’s a coalescing of flavours I have enjoyed for a long time. It’s a throwback to my youth in Australia, where Midori is a very common liqueur,” says Williams, who didn’t hesitate when asked to share the recipe. “There are no secrets. I think it turned out to be just a really refreshing combination of flavours, a well-balanced and surprising drink.” All held together by that not-so-secret ingredient: egg.
Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits.
Vegan egg substitute
If you’re making a cocktail for a vegan or someone with an egg allergy, but the recipe calls for an egg, you can substitute aquafaba, the gelatinous liquid from canned chickpeas. Williams says he once made two cocktails for a well-known chef, who didn’t believe a decent egg substitute was possible in a cocktail.
One of Williams’ creations contained egg white; the other was identical except that instead of egg, it contained aquafaba. The chef tasted the two blind and chose the one with aquafaba. From that point on, the restaurant team used both on the menu, says Williams. If you’re wanting to try it at home, use about two tablespoons of aquafaba in place of one egg white in your shaker.
Take a crack at making an egg white cocktail
The Sterling Sour
Here’s a recipe that uses Canadian whisky.
2 oz Canadian Whisky
1 oz lemon juice
1 oz simple syrup
1 egg white (optional)
Add ingredients to a shaker and dry shake for 30 seconds without ice. Add ice and shake until wellchilled. Strain over ice into a rocks glass. Serves one.
The Lonely Mouth Sour
“Since yuzu is expensive, adding a little yuzu juice to regular lemon juice provides a more affordable solution, stretches your yuzu further, and is barely noticeable,” says Greg Williams, the drink’s creator.
1 oz Midori (a sweet green Japanese melon liqueur)
1 oz shochu (a Japanese hard liquor)
0.75 oz yuzu 0.75 oz egg white 0.5 oz simple syrup
To prepare, add all ingredients to shaker and dry shake (i.e. shake without ice) for up to 30 seconds. Add ice and hard shake to chill. Double strain into a coupe glass. Serves one.
Sterling Sour
Lovin' Spoonful Fresh Corn Polenta
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
With autumn days right around the corner, thoughts of comfort food fill my head. Say goodbye to the popsicles, and hello to bowls of creamy polenta! Thick and creamy, and laced with Parmesan cheese and butter, each spoonful is like a hug from your favourite person.
Polenta is a traditional Italian dish made from cornmeal, broth (or water), Parmesan cheese and butter. I put my own twist on this classic comfort food with the addition of fresh corn sautéed in butter, which gives a boost to both the flavour and the texture of the dish. It makes for an incredible side dish, so think about topping it with grilled sausages and peppers, ragouts and stews, blistered tomatoes and shrimp, roast chicken, fish or pork. Polenta is a creamy canvas just waiting to be topped with your savoury cravings.
Simply put, polenta is essentially just cooked cornmeal. That may sound rather dull, but the history behind it is rich and fascinating. Polenta has played a significant role in Italy’s agrarian history, and its journey from a simple staple to a symbol of Italian culture is a testament to the deep-rooted connection between food and agriculture. The history of polenta is intertwined with the cultivation and processing of corn, which has been a vital part of Italy’s rural economy for centuries. Early versions of polenta were made from spelt, barley or buckwheat flour, but in the 16th century, field corn - a New World ingredient - was introduced and became a real game changer. A favourable climate and fertile soil of regions such as Lombardy, Veneto and Piedmont provided ideal conditions for flourishing fields of corn.
Corn cultivation was extremely labour-intensive. Soil had to be prepped, seeds sown, and irrigation practices implemented so those all-important seeds would grow into healthy crops. Ears of corn were handpicked, then the kernels were removed and dried. This task required skill and attention to detail as the best quality of corn was vital for producing the fine flour for polenta. Traditional stone mills or hand-operated grinding tools were used to process the dried
corn kernels, and this practice was a communal effort within the farming communities.
Originally, polenta was the humblest of peasant foods, made with just cornmeal and water. This “mush” provided sustenance to rural communities, and over time as corn cultivation became more widespread and techniques for processing the corn improved, polenta evolved from a pretty basic foodstuff to a cherished component of Italian cuisine. As polenta became more prominent within the Italian diet, it also became deeply ingrained in the traditions and customs of rural communities.
Polenta soon became a culinary icon representing the resourcefulness and unity of the Italian people.
Polenta recipes and traditions vary across the different regions and have created a rich tapestry of culinary diversity within Italy. Each region has its own way of preparing polenta, often a reflection of their agricultural practices, availability of ingredients, and climate. Northern Italy prefers a creamy polenta, topped with sausages, beef stews, or ragouts. Whereas in Venice, you may find polenta topped with little shrimp. If you’re lucky enough to be in the Veneto region, polenta will be firmer and grilled, waiting to be topped with tomatoes and mozzarella.
Making polenta at home is terrifically easy, and impressively economical. A good-sized bag of cornmeal will set you back just a few dollars, and will yield many bowls of this nourishing and delicious side dish. It’s ready in less than 30 minutes, and can be topped with a simple stew or the fanciest roast chicken.
Polenta is a classic for a reason, and not going anywhere any time soon.
Fresh Corn Polenta
Serves 4
¼ cup (60 mL) salted butter
3 cups fresh corn kernels cut off the cobs
(4 large ears)
3 cups (750 mL) chicken stock
½ cup (125 mL) water
2 garlic cloves, minced
¾ cup (180 mL) fine cornmeal
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese ¼ cup (60 mL) coffee cream
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1. Heat the butter in a large (30 cm) skillet over medium heat. Add the corn and cook for 6-9 minutes, depending on the starchiness of the corn, until the kernels are cooked through and starting to brown around the edge of the pan.
2. Meanwhile, combine the chicken stock, water, and garlic in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat. Slowly add the cornmeal while whisking constantly so there are no lumps. Switch to a wooden spoon and add the salt and pepper. Simmer over low heat for about 15-20 minutes, until the polenta is thick and creamy. Be sure to stir frequently and scrape the bottom of the pan so the polenta doesn’t burn.
3. When the polenta is cooked, stir in the sautéed corn, Parmesan cheese, cream, and thyme leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.
Back in June, we looked at some beer styles that craft brewing has embraced as mainstream. To be clear, out of the couple of hundred recognized styles, some lie in the darkness, only to be released by breweries as limited editions, seasonals, or experimental beers.
Others become so popular they expand into a whole range of sub-styles, such as the IPA, which has even mutated into a related-but-totally-different genre; the NE/Hazy/Juicy IPA. However, gradually, more and more styles are becoming accepted by the public as “normal”, and have become part of many breweries’ core menus.
Here are five more styles that are becoming increasingly easy to find at local breweries and on liquor store shelves. Each listing has a classic European brand followed by a locally brewed example, so search for them and other imported and craft versions available in Alberta.
Beer Styles Getting the LOVE they Deserve Part II
BY DAVID NUTTALL
Kölsch
Let’s face it, until about ten years ago, almost no one in Alberta had ever heard of kölsch. Even in its home country of Germany, it is rare, as it can only be brewed in Cologne (Köln), under the watchful eye of the Kölsch Konvention. This beer is a hybrid, being top-fermented and cold conditioned. It is clear and very pale yellow, giving it the appearance of an American light lager, but with noble hops providing a grassy/herbal bitterness and a dry finish. As such, it is a great patio beer, and has become a favourite of craft breweries who formerly only brewed ales.
Fruh Kölsch (Germany) - The only
German kölsch available in Alberta, it is classic in both its light body and nice soft bitterness. 845342 $6, 500 mL bottle
The Establishment My Best Friend's Girl - Made with local Hogarth malt and German noble hops, it’s as close to the original versions as you can find from a craft brewery. 853596 $17, 4 pk. cans
Red Ale
Red ale is a bit of a misnomer, as they aren’t truly red; they are more of a medium dark amber with ruby or garnet highlights. Sometimes known as Irish
Red, craft breweries commonly drop the geographical moniker to create a variety of beers often made with caramel and roasted malts. Depending on the hopping, some brewers have taken to brewing it much like a darker version of the American Pale Ale or even an IPA. Either way, it is a nice mid-level beer for those wanting something slightly dark, but not to the level of a porter or stout.
Smithwicks Ale (Ireland) - Dominant caramel/toffee notes with a touch of coffee finish from the roasted malt. 754683 $14, 4 pk. cans
Sawback Irish Red Ale – Easy drinking with a bit of spiciness. 815644 $17, 4 pk. cans
Fruit Beers
It was almost impossible to find a fruit beer outside of Belgium and a few other places through most of the twentieth century. In Alberta, the old ALCB stores carried exactly zero fruit beers until their demise in the early 1990s, whereupon clever agents began importing all sorts of beers from Europe and beyond. Locally, Alley Kat of Edmonton with Aprikat Ale and Wild Rose of Calgary with Wraspberry Ale debuted their versions later that decade and they are still among their top selling beers almost 30 years later. Since then, almost every brewery has added fruit beer to their menu. There is nothing inherently complicated about the category; any beer style becomes a fruit beer once a single or combination of fruit is added either pre or post fermentation.
There are certain groups of beers that lend themselves to added fruit, notably sours, wheat ales, light lagers, and dark beers like stout and porter being the most common.
Brouwerij Huyghe Fruli Strawberry Beer (Belgium) - One of the first imported fruit beers to appear in Alberta. While its 4.1 percent ABV makes it a lower alcohol beer, it tastes like strawberry jam in a glass.
766624 $20, 4 pk. bottles
Blindman Lemon and Lime SourThe zest of thousands of lemons and limes reside in this low alcohol (4.5 percent ABV) beer. While classified as a sour, it is more fruity and tart than astringent. 109083 $14, 4 pk. cans
Radler/Shandy
While fruit beer has taken off in several directions, it is the radler that first appeared in Alberta in the early 2000s where they really made their mark. Surprisingly, radler is not a recognized style but nonetheless it has become ubiquitous. Along with the British version, the shandy, the radler (meaning cyclist in German) is a mixture of (usually) lager and fruit juice or soda. By playing with the percentages in the blend, brewers can create a range of low alcohol beers with a 50/50 mixture yielding a 2.5 percent ABV final product.
Best of Kin Summer Crush Radler
A 4 percent ABV wheat ale with tangerine and blood orange juice. 876604 $19, 4 pk cans
Smoked Beer
Smoked beer (or rauchbier in German) is somewhat of an acquired taste. Much like the peatiness in scotch, it can vary in intensity. Originally, almost all beers were somewhat smokey until Daniel Wheeler patented his process of hot air kilning in 1818.
Still a favourite of Nordic countries and a specialty of Bamberg, Germany where beechwood smoked rauchmalz is produced, craft breweries have been brewing this style of beer using either imported or locally produced craft smoked malt.
Any style of beer can become a smoked beer with even a small addition of this malt, but it is more commonly found in darker beers.
Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Maerzen (Germany) - The campfire smell arrives as soon as you pop the cap from this almost 620-year-old brewery from Bamberg. Dark and smooth, the smokiness is strong, but not overwhelming. 757301 $6, 500 mL bottle
Radlers are available in multiple flavours, but shandies tend to be lemonlime. Their low alcohol and drinkability makes them such a popular refreshment option even Big Brewing has variety packs with multiple flavours.
Stiegl Grapefruit Radler (Austria)Probably the best selling fruit beer in Alberta. Also available in raspberry and lemon flavours in single cans. 802720 $17, 4 pk. cans
Smoked Red Ale - Using their own maple smoked malt, the red ale stays smooth with only a hint of smokiness. 880744 $19, 4 pk. cans
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
Coffee Drinks
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
While we know that there are going to be a few more weeks of the nice, summery weather, when September rolls around and the Labour Day weekend is in the rear view, it’s probably back to the grind for
Van Gogh Espresso Vodka, Holland
A long time presence in the Alberta market for espresso vodkas, this one opens up slowly in the glass but in a few moments, we start smelling the rich coffee notes with citrus and a little bit of cocoa too. A little lower in alcohol with 35 percent ABV, this gives an almost sweet finish and sense of body. Would work very well in more complex mixed drinks.
CSPC 721256, around $50
Back 40 Farmers Blend Coffee Liquor, Alberta
A favourite when it comes to coffee flavoured bevvies, carrying an excellent balance of spirit notes, but more importantly, rich, robust coffee flavours. Not too sweet, but the coffee has the right taste for those that like their coffee a little stronger – but not bitter. Perfect for “topping up” your coffee on the weekends, or in any manner of mixed drinks that need the café perk.
CSPC 800163 $38-42
most people. The vacation days are done, and you may be getting back to your heavily caffeinated mornings. While we don’t advocate these coffee flavoured spirits for your morning coffee, maybe they’ll work in your evenings, or those well-deserved weekends.
Bepi Tosolini Expre Premium Coffee Liqueur, Italy
Giuseppe (Bepi) Tosolini spent 75 years of his life in Friuli, northeast Italy, distilling grapes to make grappa and grappa-based spirits, and raise the quality of both. It really shows in a liqueur like Expre, where arabic beans are distilled in grape spirit, and won’t go unnoticed by espresso drinkers and aficionados. It’s sweet with rounded bitter edges, and reminds me of eating dark chocolate-covered caramels while sipping strong black coffee.
CSPC 795129 $48-50
Galliano Espresso Liqueur, Holland
A perfect liqueur to sip and savour with the citrus and spiciness of good espresso and a healthy enthusiasm for welcoming sweetness. Vaguely peppermint flavoured on the palate too, it’s pleasant enough to enjoy neat or over ice, but would be excellent in coffee- or chocolate- based cocktails. Yum!
822894 $18-20, 375 mL
Luxardo Espresso, Italy
Newest in Luxardo’s extensive lineup of liqueurs, Espresso is a blend of predominantly Arabica coffees from Brazil, Columbia, and Kenya, heatinfused in neutral spirit for a month, and sweetened with a little sugar beet spirit, to give an intense espresso-style drink. It’s chocolatey, smoky, and with just the right amount of bitterness on the finish when poured over ice for a satisfying after-dinner drink or chilled as a martini before your meal.
CSPC 100999 $25-28
Park Distillery, Espresso Vodka
Alberta
Carefully balancing the delicacy and bitterness of espresso beans with the very finely crafted vodka from Park Distillery in Banff, this is a treat for the senses. Well integrated flavourings coupled with smooth vodka notes, this likely isn’t much of a sipping vodka, but wow does it work well in those cocktails. CSPC 778210, around $50
Copper Club Espresso Martini
Alberta
A lighter style of ready-to-drink espresso martini, made from vodka and coffee liqueur sweetened with cane sugar, Copper Club suggests on the front label to simply shake it with ice and strain –and it’s ready to roll. Indeed, and very easy to drink even at 20 percent ABV. It’s a crowd-pleaser, so get out your martini glasses and invite the crowd over!
CSPC 108176 $24-29
Cappuccino King Brandy Caffe
Alberta
Cappuccino King are celebrating their 50th anniversary this year, and were looking for ways to commemorate the occasion. Planning for something small to give as gifts, when they joined forces with neighbours, Bridgeland Distillery, the project developed and grew. Brandy Caffe combines Vince’s Blend Italian Roast coffee with Bridgeland’s brandy to give a deep, rich roast, full-on coffee brandy – a perfect way to finish any meal! $48 at the distillery
Netherlands
While making an espresso martini at home isn’t too hard, sometimes you just want to be able to enjoy one without the fuss and in an extra-convenient format. Very smooth, and very enjoyable on all counts, but best of all is that each of the ingredients has a moment to shine on the palate and it finishes so well. Only a garnish of a few coffee beans and a glass are required!
CSPC 857458 $22-24
Crystal Head Espresso Martini USA
Well, Crystal Head have done all the work for us. Their brand new small batch (and small size too, with convenient pocket- or purse-size 100 mL cans) are a blend of their original Canadian corn vodka with nitro-brewed coffee – and a little chocolate and agave added to give a bitter-sweet, and lip-smacking espresso martini for a no fuss, anytime drink.
CSPC 109067 $5-6
All-Natural
No Fillers
No Binders
No Preservatives
Bols Cocktails Espresso Martini
MAKING THE CASE Why the Details Matter
By TOM FIRTH
“ ou can’t see the forest for the trees” is a wonderful line attributed to John Heywood, but it’s an incredibly relevant way of forcing yourself to look at the big picture, but also paying attention to the details. This comes into play quite a bit with wine (and other beverages too). You can get caught up in the minutiae of the wine making or the vineyard (Slovenian oak versus Hungarian anyone?), but in the end, it’s about those dozens of details and choices the winemaker made to bring their best product from the vineyard to your glass – and hopefully at a good or reasonable price.
This month, I’m sharing an eclectic assortment of bottles that I thought were all great, but most importantly, they were interesting or exciting too. A few lesser known grapes, a few lesser known styles or regions, but all wines that share an attention to detail that hopefully will be apparent in the glass too. I hope you enjoy them even a smidgeon as much as I did.
Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Dovetail 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon
Lodi, California
Sporting a connection to Evander Kane (of the Oilers, but also made in Calgary at the City & Country Winery via imported premium grapes from Lodi) this is a wonderful and interesting foray into wine for the player. A limited edition, so it might be getting hard to find (try the winery), but what’s in the bottle is a fine example of Lodi fruit character. Big Cab notes with cherry and graphite aromas and an excellent weight and length on the palate. Serious, ageable wine – perhaps hang on to it until Alberta’s next Stanley Cup run….
CSPC 103405 $42-45
Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.
Chasing Rain 2019 Merlot, Red Mountain, Washington State
Another beautiful merlot for fans of this noble grape. Deeply laden with intense fruits but also a fine tarry and mild smokiness, supported by gentle floral tones too. A bigger expression on the palate with fairly big and chewy tannins to go with the fruits – helped by a generous amount of cab sauv in the blend. Exceptional value for premium quality merlot. Honestly.
CSPC 858562 $30-32
A white blend centred around malvasia with trebbiano and rossetto and positively bursting with intentional aromas of stone fruits, flowers and a clean straw and chalky note for minerality. On the palate, tight and dry with a razor sharp acidity and a lengthy, expressive finish with plenty to talk about. Serve chilled but not too cold, and try matching with firmer cheese or grilled poultry. Delicious from start to finish.
CSPC 884394 $23-26
Catena 2020 La Marchigiana Criolla Chica, Mendoza, Argentina
While at best – I am cautious about the natural or ancestral wine trend, it can make some pretty spectacular wines. Catena has always been a trailblazer and watching with bated breath their next amazing release is a minor hobby of sorts too. The Marchigiana is ancestral in style, earthy and tropical too with rich mineral and amphora presence on the palate. Wildly complex, it’s meant to be enjoyed and discussed – perhaps with some light nosh.
CSPC 877457 $36-38
Rossi di Medelana 2021 Vigna Ferri Frascati, Lazio, Italy
Year in and year out, this is a stunner for semillon fans – for good reason. Made with about 18 percent sauvignon blanc and letting the intense lemon, guava, honeydew, salinity and mineral shine through. Made with zero new oak also lets only the best of the grape show through. Delicious, refined, and good today or in the cellar for a couple of years too. Incredible wine.
CSPC 374140 $40-44
Reflecting a different approach, the twisted rosé is predominantly gamay with riesling(!!?) and pinot noir. The colour is a little darker than most rosés, while the nose leans towards cranberry and blueberry with a mild jammy or rock candy quality. Definitely off-dry, but this is entirely crushable with consistent flavours joining nose and palate – this would rock a late evening on the deck or patio.
CSPC 39974 $23-25
Semillon and chenin blanc? Together? From Argentina? Yes to all the above, and my excitement of this bottle ranks pretty high up on that list of fun wines to try. Semillon is most of the blend here and the characters are all about lemon, honey, chalk, and flint. Very well balanced on the palate with minor notes of nectarine and pear coming through too. Refined, delicious, and versatile at the table.
Koshu is pretty much the unique, indigenous wine grape of Japan – Japan of course making wine, and the Grace winery (established in 1923) is one of the top producers in the country. A different grape, think of it as similar to pinot gris, but with a bit more power, showing pear skin and waxy apple fruits and a touch of candy stick too. Zesty on the palate with tight acids, and with a palate evoking semillon. Delicious.
CSPC 784981 $39-43
Will wonders never cease? We also have a red from Japan in our market. Made from an uncommon grape found almost entirely in Japan, it does bear the unusual name of “Muscat Bailey A”, with merlot, cabernet franc, and a drop of cabernet sauvignon. Flavours are of slightly earthy blueberries with supporting cranberry and delicious spices. Nice acids and tannins wrap it up too. In some ways very similar to gamaybased blends. Fantastic!
CSPC 824457 $30-32
Made from gaglioppo grapes and completely, 100 percent meant to be served chilled, this red is still good year round, but might be a start in the autumn months too where warm days lead to chilly evenings. Black berry fruit and a mild juiciness offset by earthy spice and grippy but mild tannins, this is excellent wine to enjoy on its own or with light appetizers that may not traditionally go with red wine. Worth seeking out.
CSPC 805555 $26-29
10,000
State
Why ten thousand hours? It’s often said that to become good at something, it takes about that amount of time to get there (or to five-six years of full time attention). Syrah itself is a fickle grape and probably takes about that long to get it to really shine. A bit of a fruit bomb here with generosity of fruit, fine levels of spice, and a good, silky feel. Tight on the palate with rich spices and a bit of cherry cola too. Interesting and tasty, try with smoked or cured meats –maybe even pepperoni pizza!
CSPC 103405 $42-45
CSPC 867601 $27-30
While syrah/shiraz and petite sirah are only very distantly related, petite sirah is known for its small berries giving the grape better potential for higher tannins and a more robust flavour too. Aromas of blackberries and a hint of blueberry, yet also smoke and spice, lead into plenty of tannins, but a balanced mouthfeel and acidity too. Those tannins are a little chewy, so likely pairing with something like big cuts of beef will work best - or a juicy, messy burger….
CSPC 431478 $26-28
Merlot… rocks. That’s all that needs to be said about this one. I love well made ones no matter where they are made and love experiencing the lofty heights it can achieve. A little more than 80 percent merlot in the blend with generous amounts of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc (and a pinch of malbec) lets the best of each shine with deep plum and complementary bell pepper, cocoa, and spice with a little library dust too. Big, balanced, and precise, this is great wine for a good table.
CSPC 374157 $49-55
Hours 2019 Syrah, Red Mountain Washington
Grace 2022 Gris De Koshu, Yamanashi Japan
L’Ecole No.41 2022 Semillon, Columbia Valley, Washington
Flat Rock Cellars 2023 Pink Twisted Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
Catena 2022 White Clay, Lujan de Cuyo Argentina
L’Ecole No. 41 2019 Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington
Grace 2021 Yamanashi De Grace Yamanashi, Japan
Bogle 2021 Petite Sirah, California
Tenuta Iuzzolini 2022 Belfresco Calabria, Italy
Maille Dijon Mayonnaise
Do you remember the mustard shortage a few years ago? It’s levelled out now and mustard company, Maille, have been busy coming up with new products and new packaging, relaunching their Traditional Dijon and Honey Mustards in squeezy bottles, and they’ve released my fave - the new Dijon Mayonnaise –the creamiest, smoothest, and most delicious mayo for your sandwiches, potato salads, meats… with everything! 340 mL $7-10
PowerXL SMARTSYNX Dual Oven
McCain Medleys
We are always looking for tasty, flavourful options, and convenience is always a handy thing too. Made in collaboration with Canadian celebrity chef Susur Lee, and joining the existing frozen food aisle flavours of Italian-Style Roasted Potatoes and Veggies and Roasted Potatoes and Broccoli, come Smoky Paprika & Pepper and Mexican Style. Oven ready in about 15 minutes, they are also versatile enough for the air fryer or even the skillet. Try them as a scrambler with eggs or sausage too!
Power XL has released a new line of appliances to help make your everyday dinners professional-quality meals. We put the PowerXL SMARTSYNX Dual Oven, through its paces and yes, it’s powerful. With two ovens and 10 different cooking methods (including air fry!), you can even cook a main and a side at two different temperatures with the two separate ovens. This small but mighty oven fits comfortably on a kitchen counter for easy and efficient cooking. Canadian Tire online and in-store, $260
Ghostly Garlic Salt Grinders
The passion project of owners and growers Jenn and Nick, these little grinders pack a punch of flavour with garlic grown on their farm in Millarville. There’s garlic powders, salt shakers, and grinders with flavours like Dill Garlic Salt, Truffle Garlic Salt, and even Turkey Day Garlic Salt. We got our hands on the Black Garlic Salt grinder and we’re pretty much obsessed with it, seasoning steaks and burgers, French fries and mashed potatoes, and it’s epic in a Caesar!
$15, ghostlygarlic.com
Brunch King
Joey Maggiore’s vibrant personality and love for brunch have culminated in the most amusing and enjoyable cookbook timed for National Brunch Day on September 15. Why save the partying for the evening when you could cook up these tasty recipes and use the DJ set list on page 15 to create your own “daytime brunch club”? Brunch King includes eats, beats, and boozy drinks to elevate your morning meal and maybe even get you up on the dance floor before noon! Figure 1, $39
Foothills Creamery Ice Cream
Calgary-based Foothills Creamery has launched some new ice cream flavours! Campfire S’mores and Lactose-free Strawberry (you’d never know!) are available in 1.4 L tubs, and Root Beer Float in 500 mL packs. Our favourite was the Cinnamon Bun (500 mL), which has yummy pieces of real cinnamon bun sprinkled throughout. And they’ve released new waffle and flat-bottom cake cones too! Widely available at grocery stores, 1.4 L around $10-11, 500 mL $6-7
...with Chris Lorway
BY QUINN CURTIS AND LINDA GARSON
PHOTO BY RITA TAYLOR
Chris Lorway grew up in Nova Scotia, attending school in Sydney, transferring to Dalhousie University to study music, and then transferring again to Western University to study music education. “I went back to Cape Breton for a bit and worked on the Celtic Colours Festival, getting that off the ground. And then went to graduate school at Columbia University in New York City,” says Lorway.
With his extensive music education under his belt, Lorway quickly integrated himself into the arts, culture, and entertainment sector. This is where he worked on everything from the strategic planning for the Edinburgh Festivals to the West Kowloon Cultural District in Hong Kong, and the redevelopment of the World Trade Center site after 9/11 to strategy for New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina. “So lots of really interesting projects that got me under the hood of so many different arts organizations and so many important projects as well,” says Lorway.
After spending seven years as the first Executive Artistic Director of Stanford Live, Lorway got the call to head down to the Banff Centre, where he is now president and CEO. “The big thing since I've arrived here is understanding the history and using that as a tool to think about the future. I don't want to get trapped in nostalgia, but I also want to be grounded in all the amazing things that have happened here,” says Lorway.
“The big thing that I did right away as there was a whole history of summer arts festivals here, a time when all the differentt programs that we do were collectively curated and thought
through so that from June until Labour Day weekend, amazing things were happening at the Centre,” he says. “I wanted to essentially bring that back. We've launched that this year, and we're seeing a great response.”
But one thing that Lorway is proudest of is his team at the Banff Centre. “We have a great team that is a mixture of people who've been here forever along with some really great new thinkers. And I think as we head towards our hundredth anniversary in 2033, we have so many exciting opportunities to really take the Centre forward. So that's what I'm focused on,” he says.
So what bottle has Lorway been saving for a special occasion?
Well, living in California meant that he had direct access to Napa and Sonoma, and many other great wine regions. This means that he spent a lot of weekends going out and indulging in great wine. “After a while, you decide what your favourite places are. And in some cases, you also get a bit of a palate upgrade as well, where your tastes become more and more expensive. And what I found was that the wines that I was often drawn to
were ones where I had to wait for some time to get on a list to be able to even access the wines,” says Lorway. He discovered his special occasion wine at a wine class at Stanford during the pandemic, which was hosted by Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible. “I was asking if there were any producers in California who did a really nice job of the buttery, oaky Chardonnays that you get in California. And she said, well, actually Andy Erickson, who was one of the top winemakers in Napa, had bought a farm and he and his wife had a few vineyards right on the property. And one of those was a brand called Carbone, which was a very French-style Chardonnay,” he says. So, being the bold person he is, he sent an email directly to their website, asking if he could try a bottle. “It wasn't a winery that was open to the public; it was a sort of private space. But Andy and Annie invited me up to see their cellar and sit in their back garden to try a few things, and it was wonderful,” he says. “I think as I head into year two at the Banff Centre it'll probably be the perfect time to drink it. And, the perfect time to celebrate having survived two years in Banff.”
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