Culinaire #13.8 (January/February 2025)

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S JA N UA RY/ F E B R UA RY 2 02 5

Latte Art | Speakeasies | Cooking with Love | Miso | Are we drinking less?

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contents

Volume 13 / No. 8 / January/February 2025

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

News from Alberta’s culinary scene and new restaurant openings

10 Chef’s Tips

From slow-cooked main dishes to indulgent brunch delights, the secret ingredient is, and always has been, love.

14

20 Marvellous Miso!

A powerhouse ingredient to add a savoury depth to any meal

by Natalie Findlay

34 Making the Case

…out with the old and in with the new!

36

Etcetera…

What’s new?

38 Open That Bottle

with Bill Bonar, owner of Rain Dog Bar

20

8

Three New Books ...sharing The Food We Love, baking Essential Sweets and Savories, and cooking Quick and Cozy

by Quinn Curtis, Tom Firth, and Linda Garson

14 Confetti Sweets Knows the Joy of a Cookie...

and Kathy Leskow is the founder and CEO (cookie eating officer)

by Lucy Haines

ON THE COVER We gave photographer Katarzyna Kowalewska her choice of features to capture for our front cover this issue. Would it be haggis, miso, alcohol-free drinks, speakeasies, cottage cheese – or latte art? We love her choice and her portrayal of coffee, lattes, and the art created in our coffees and lattes. Many thanks to Kasia for her always strong and dynamic images for our covers!

22

16 Raising a Tasty Toast

to the New Year!

Cottage cheese is a divisive dairy product, and it’s having a bit of a moment

by Renée Kohlman

18

The Magic of Miso

Five ideas to amp up your everyday recipes

by Mallory Frayn

22 IYKYK

Alberta’s hidden cocktail bars and speakeasies

by Lauren Kalinowski

25 Winter Spirits

Rum is the perfect beach getaway, and no beach required

by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

26 No, thank you!

Perhaps for the first time in six decades, alcohol no longer takes pride of place on the table

by Tom Firth

28 Latte Art

This culinary artistry has taken the café industry by storm!

by Erika Ravnsborg

30 Offally Delicious

This legendary Scottish dish “is truly delightful”

by Shelley Boettcher

32 Recognizing German Beer Styles

You might think there would be a plethora of German beers on our shelves, but it’s not true.

by David Nuttall January/February 2025 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

W

hen you were young, what did you imagine 2025 would be like? Would we all be flying around in bubble cars? It’s 63 years since The Jetsons aired on television, and while it was set in 2062, it’s remarkable how much they predicted that is part of our everyday lives now – flat screen TVs, smartwatches, video meetings… and the list goes on.

So we are living in the future, but am I the only one who’s excited about what 2025 might hold? I’m sensing more than a feeling of nervousness in the air, which is unsurprising as none of us know how we as a country, as businesses, and as individuals, will be affected by the changing of the guard for our neighbours at the start of this year. Of course we’re all still hoping the rumours bandied around at the end of last year won’t come to fruition, but there are so many

questions as to how this year will unfold.

I’m looking forward enthusiastically though, and I am excited. We’ve been talking about and planning new projects for quite some time, and we’re hoping that this year will see them materialize.

Watch this space in March when I’ll be able to reveal more!

And later this year it will be the twentieth anniversary of Vine & Dine!

That’s hard to believe for me, but I only have to look in my files and see every menu, and the details of all the thousands of events I’ve run since 2005.

Meanwhile there’s a lot to celebrate over the two months of this issue; for whisky fans Robbie Burns Night is coming up, the Lunar New Year starts on January 29, and Valentine’s Day is not far off.

I hope you enjoy reading this issue of Culinaire, and wish you a very happy Year of the Snake.

Claudia T Photography

Rushing headlong into 2025…

Thanks to those that wrote to ask about the pastry on the cover of our December issue. Photographer, Katarzyna Kowalewska, made it herself! It’s called Cinnamon Star Bread - ask for a link to the recipe!

Correction: The Pretzel Caramel Thumbprint cookie recipe on page 29 in December's issue should have read 2½ cups all-purpose flour, not ⅔ cup.

Gung hay fat choy, Cheers,

Linda, Editor-in-Chief

More than a grocery store!

EDMONTON

|

CALGARY

| SHERWOOD PARK

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors

Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca

A freelance writer who lives and works in downtown Edmonton, Lauren is a creative writing graduate, project manager, and mother of four. She loves to cook for a full table, eat everything, and always has an opinion. Her work has been featured in Canadian literary magazines Existere and Queens Quarterly.

She regularly contributes culture, arts, and food writing to local Alberta publications.

Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Assistant Editor Quinn Curtis quinn@culinairemagazine.ca

Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Shelley Boettcher, Quinn Curtis Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn Lucy Haines, Lauren Kalinowski Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman David Nuttall, Erika Ravnsborg Keane Straub

Proudly printed in Alberta

by Burke Group.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Lauren Kalinowski

Quin Curtis

Quinn was born and raised in Calgary and has had a passion for food her whole life. This passion has led her to search for new and exciting culinary experiences in many countries around the globe. Currently a journalism student at Mount Royal University, she loves writing about all things food and drink, and spends most of her time cooking up exciting recipes and trying out new restaurants.

LUXURY WINE AND CULINARY TOUR OF ALSACE & CHAMPAGNE September 19-October 1, 2025

From the 13th century historic city of Colmar in Alsace to the world-renowned, grand wine regions of Champagne, come and experience the real France!

This comprehensive tour includes: • Guided private visits to wineries of Alsace and Champagne • Food treasure hunt in Colmar to explore the city and its culinary specialties • Optional two days in Paris • Champagne sabering class • Premium wine tastings • Lunches and dinners with wine • Plenty of opportunities for shopping • Fully air-conditioned transfers and transport each day • and lots lots more....

Erika Ravnsborg

Erika is a freelance writer who has been writing ever since she was a child. Her love of storytelling is fuelled by her love of adventure. Always ready to inform the world of the best things that are happening whether it is a new restaurant opening, a new dish to try, or the best hidden gems in local communities, she will be happy to tell you all about it.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. We are committed to support Indigenous chefs and amplify their voices to bring awareness of the food and culture of the First Nations.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

For details, contact Linda: 403-870-9802 linda@culinairemagazine.ca

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S

What a joy it was to watch Season Eight of the Great Canadian Baking Show. Huge congratulations to winner Elora Khanom, of Edmonton!

And more congrats to the winning chefs at Calgary’s regional qualifier for the Canadian Culinary Championship. Chef Matthias Fong from Primary Colours took the top spot, with silver going to Chef Tracy Little of Sauvage in Canmore, and bronze to Orchard Restaurant’s Chef Jenny Kang!

And to Calgary’s Mercato Mission, who are celebrating 20 years as a culinary destination! To commemorate the anniversary, everyone who dines in during January and February can submit a story of dining there on Mercato’s social media channels for a chance to win a dinner for four, a private dinner for 10 at Mama Cathy’s home, or a private dinner for 10 with wine pairings!

As well as Tubi, John Gilchrist’s ‘Cuisine of the Rockies’ is now available on roku.com and distro.tv too!

Blowers & Grafton has reopened their OG Calgary Mission location, after a complete renovation! There’s not only a refurbished and refreshed look to the space, but this location has a menu with items that you can’t get in any of their Edmonton, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat, or other Calgary restaurants (yet!).

Share some of the new appetizers like their mini scallop or lobster rolls, and Orange Tamari Tuna Tartare, or go for one of their East Coast classics. Seven days 11 am-close, blowersgrafton.com 6 Culinaire | January/February 2025

Edmonton’s Westmount area is home to Fox Burger’s third location, in addition to their burger joints in Highlands and Leduc. Known for their shareables and salads, your choice of ten burgers, and a game time menu with cheap beer and cheap eats, they’re now at 11003 124 Street. Seven days from 11 am, foxburger.ca True Wild Distilling is finally open, and it’s a masterful transformation from a 1911 electricity substation to a jaw-droppingly beautiful, restaurant, distillery, and events centre. Props to Frank Architecture! Heading up the live-fire kitchen is Chef Jeff Lusis, who has returned to Calgary after eight years in Sydney - a chef who is not afraid of flavour! Just the first bites of malted barley sourdough (with malt from neighbour, Alberta Malting), and baked oysters with chicken fat butter, and you know you’re in good hands here. Distiller Justin Dziadyk (ex-Business & Pleasure) and mixologist Matt Van Buuren are blending their vodka, gin, and vermouths in-house for their excellent cocktails and alcohol-free ‘tails, and there’s a clever build your own martini program too.

True Wild Whisky is coming in four years, but meanwhile try their Roper’s Hold blended Canadian whisky, finished in house in Okanagan oak barrels. Ask for a tour, there’s a lot to love here!

3115 11th Street SE, truewilddistilling.com We’ve been eagerly waiting to hear who is stepping into NongBu Korean Eatery’s shoes in Edmonton’s Old Strathcona, after they closed their doors last September. Owner John Ahn had hinted that he was leaving the space in

good hands with new Korean owners – and now Nara Katsu has opened, a second location for the family behind Nara Chicken and Tonkatsu. Get your katsu fix (as well as your rib-eye bulgogi, corn cheese, tteokkochi and tteokbbokki!) at 8115 104 Street.

Seven days, 5-10 pm It’s the next chapter for Calgary’s much-loved DOP - DOPO is open in Marda Loop, in the lower level of the Elizabeth Complex, at 1907 34 Avenue SW. The little 30 seat room is warm and welcoming, with a low wooden ceiling, Tiffany lamps, family photos on the walls, and David Leeder (formerly at Teatro) at the helm in the kitchen. Some of your favourite DOP dishes are here, along with must-try new dishes such as the Brassica salad with crispy guanciale and white anchovy vinaigrette; and Anolini - little pockets of joy filled with potato!

Reservations essential. Seven days from 4 pm, dopoyyc.com And Edmonton has another new Korean restaurant. Chacha’s Rabokki is now open, and they say they’re the only place in Edmonton where you can enjoy Korean Hotpot Rabokki – a popular Korean spicy hotpot dish of stir-fried rice cakes and ramen noodles (and there’s Cheese Rabokki for those who prefer less spicy foods!). 10117 100A Street from 11 am, closed Sundays.

It’s taco time in Alberta! Native Tongues have opened their third Calgary location, so now as well as Beltline and Britannia, there’s another modern, yet rustic, taverna-style taqueria in the University District,

5

at 4014 University Avenue NW. It’s a place for all ages, and everyone from students to businessmen are enjoying this flavourful comfort food (you have to try the new Papas Norteñas with baked potatoes!). Executive chef Fernando Castro is cooking here, and mom Yenny is in the kitchen making all the salsas and desserts. Seven days 11:30 am-close (no resos), nativetongues.ca Look for the blue painted wall in Old Strathcona’s former Waffle Bird space, at 8116 101 Street, now the home of the tiny Taqueria El Chingon, a sister restaurant to Three Amigos. You customize your

meal here by choosing your taco, empanada, tacos dorado, or chilaquiles, and then your choice of nine proteins.

Or go for chingones with melted mozza, sauteed onions, and jalapeno.

5 Masa Mamma has opened! The people behind Con Mi Tacos pop-up, Chef Mikko Tamarra and Andrew Ocasion, have now opened their taqueria in Marda Loop at 3429 22 Street SW, and it’s busy! They say, “dope tacos, great guac, tasty snacks, sweet desserts”, and we say this is statement food – big and bold favours with different and unexpected fillings and toppings,

alongside Ocasion’s excellent bar menu too. They’re having fun with their tacos, and yes, there are really good churros too. From 4 pm, closed Monday, masamama.com Edmonton’s original specialty coffee roaster has a new location! Now in addition to their Ritchie Market coffee shop, Transcend Coffee has opened their new 124 Street, warm and bright café at 12332 106th Avenue NW. Choose from around 30 different hot drinks, and pick one (or two!) of their delicious pastries, cookies, or their beloved banana bread (from Canova Bakery). Seven days 8 am -3 pm, transcendcoffee.ca A new brunch spot for Calgary’s Bridgeland! Komorebi Brunch serves up Japanese-inspired classic breakfast and lunch dishes. For Benny fans, there are six choices with toppings of beef amiyaki (Japanese grilled beef), spicy cauliflower, and chashu with house made chimichurri. For those with a sweet tooth, you’re well looked after too, with French toast and matcha ice cream, Matcha pancakes, croffles… 725 1st Avenue NE, Wednesday-Monday 8-3:30, @komorebi_yyc

Are ultra-luxurious coffee experiences here to stay?

You might have seen some of the social media buzz about the “$100 Cup of Coffee” on offer here in Calgary, and likely your thoughts immediately fall into one of two camps. The… “Wow, $100 for a cup?” camp and the other, “Hmm… go on… what’s this?” camp.

Tastings start this month, and for Phil & Sebastian, this is the very first step in gauging what sort of appetite there might be for top shelf, ultra-premium, coffee experiences that will appeal to pleasure seekers and well-heeled enthusiasts of the breakfast bean.

Perhaps we can be a world class coffee destination?

First off, it’s about the beans and the experience. The beans themselves fetch just under $5,000 CAD per kilogram, and for the record, that kilogram comes out to about 50ish cups of coffee – hence the $100 price tag. Finca Sophia’s coffee beans are from a micro terroir, in a

sheltered, but extremely high elevation for Panamanian coffee - and the beans are of the “Geisha” variety. This coffee came in second at the Best of Panama competition, and just one kilo of this, bought at auction, has made its way to Calgary (the #1 coffee in this category sells for MUCH more, and isn’t here – yet) for these special tastings.

I’ll be deliberately vague in my descriptions here, in part to not steal any thunder for the actual experience if one were to book one of these tasting spots.

This really is about the experience of trying and learning about this very select coffee. Sitting and watching one of Phil & Sebastian’s baristas carefully prepare the coffee is near magical, elaborate but not pretentious, and being carefully guided through the tasting as the coffee gradually cools and evolves, is absolutely worthwhile.

According to Sebastian Sztabzyb

(co-founder of Phil & Sebastian), “I’ve been thinking about this for a couple of years. Someone did this in the US back in 2023, so I thought the time to try it was ripe in Canada – if they can do it there – why can’t we?”

Bonus, there are also options to take home the special cups created for this, from Quinspired Ceramics.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 7

B O O K R E V I E WS BY Q U I N N C U RT I S , TO M F I RT H A N D L I N DA G A RSO N

Whitewater Cooks The Food We Love

by Shelley Adams and Conner Adams, Alicon Holdings Ltd $39 Since her first Whitewater Cooks book thirteen years ago, Shelley Adams has written five more very successful editions, and now here’s her seventh book in the series - this time in collaboration with her son, Connor, who lives in Venice Beach, California, so it’s a terrific marriage of her Kootenay mountain dishes and his healthy California-style plates.

Her mantra is, “Great recipes are meant to be shared!” and they’re sharing some real winners in this book, using easily sourced ingredients too. My copy is liberally peppered with sticky notes marking all the recipes I want to make, from the first chapter, ‘Starters’, and the Marinated Manchego Cheese Antipasto (p.28), right through to ‘Desserts’, and their Lavender Honey Loaf (p.142). ‘Soups and Sides’ includes Smashed Waldorf Potatoes (p.54) with candied walnuts and Roquefort cream – need I say more?

The family are known for their salads however, eagerly awaited by their guests, as they’re served after the main course.

I want to eat them all; the Venetian Brussels Sprouts Salad (p.88) is so simple to assemble, yet will surprise you with its ingredients (grapes and Marcona almonds!). I’ve skipped over ‘Dinners’ because there are too many good ones to list, so you’re going to have to treat yourself to this book (and it is a treat) to discover them all!

8 Culinaire | January/February 2025

Crust

Half Baked Essential Sweets and Savories Harvest from Victoria’s Beloved Bakery

by Tom Moore, Appetite by Random House Canada $38 Crust is one of those books that just makes you want to get up and start baking! It's going to have to stay handy in your kitchen because no matter where you flip to, there’s a recipe you’ll want to try. If you’ve ever been to Crust Bakery in Victoria, you’ll know just how creative and delicious their baked goods are — and what a treat it is to get the inside scoop and make them in the comfort of your own home!

Chef Tom Moore has done an outstanding job of presenting over 85 sweet and savoury recipes that are easy to follow, and can make even a novice baker feel like a professional.

From pies and tarts; through muffins, scones and squares; to cakes, cookies and breads, Moore’s book is filled with mouth-watering recipes, everything from the first recipe in the book - lemon passionfruit slices (p.20), to the last old-school bagels (p.229). One of the recipes that really excited us was Moore’s take on a Down Under favourite, Tom Tams (p.161), a delicious chocolatey cookie identical to the original Australian version.

You can expect only crumbs to be left on the plate after making these recipes!

Quick and Cozy

by Teighan Gerard, Clarkson Potter $44 The mark of a good cookbook should really be how exciting it is to think of all the tasty treats inside, and how much your family and friends would like to join you on this culinary journey.

Everyone, and we mean everyone, that we showed this book to raved about it or raved about how they’d seen other books or recipes from Half Baked Harvest, so we dived in.

With the review copy covered in coloured flags, it was hard to find a place to start, but the nine chapters cover the gamut from breakfast; through apps, snacks and cocktails; soups and salads; several chapters on mains; and dessert.

Each recipe has a concise estimate of prep and cooking times, with many having a tip to adjust the recipe too.

We start with breakfast where the Mini Corn Soufflé Omelets (p.29) promise a snacky morning within 30 minutes, while in Apps, Snacks and Cocktails, the Roasted Pepperoni Brussels Sprouts (p.52) catch our eyes and the Baked Broccoli CheddarGruyère Soup in bread bowls (p.94) is a promise of quick and cozy for sure. The Pizza and Pasta chapter has too many eye-openers to list, but top of mine was the Cacio e Pepe Ravioli (p.127). Wonderfully photographed, this is the rare book that will replace several other books on my shelf. Highly recommended.

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January/February 2025 | Culinaire 9

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Straight from the Heart

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

W

e’ve talked to a lot of chefs over the years, and whenever we ask them about what drives them to cook, there is almost always some mention of wanting to bring joy to the people for whom they are cooking.

Cooking a meal is an act of service, an exchange of time,

Bold flavours and Filipino influence are calling cards for Francis Martinez’s cooking. As the executive chef at Calgary’s Fine Print, he says he’s most inspired by creating amazing experiences for guests.

“Seeing guests genuinely enjoy every bite is incredibly rewarding.”

Dishes that balance tradition and creativity make up much of the menu, and several clamour for top spot on guests’ favourites list. “Branzino, sablefish, bison tartare, and brie honey toast, are some of our most popular dishes,” he explains.

But if he had to choose one to show his love, it would be the Short Rib Bourguignon. “This is a classic French stew that I’ve modernized by using short ribs and adding the vegetables at the end.” This, he says, enhances presentation and gives the dish a fresh, vibrant touch. “Calgary winters can be very cold, so this hearty dish is perfect for warming up!”

Most of the work for this dish is done in the beginning – this is one of those meals that goes in the oven to braise low and slow for a few hours. “Take your time and let the flavours develop,” says Chef Francis. “The end result is always worth the wait.”

10 Culinaire | January/February 2025

thoughtfulness, and creativity, and it feeds both the body and the soul for everyone involved. So, we asked Alberta chefs to share one special dish they would cook to show loved ones how much they care. From slow-cooked main dishes to indulgent brunch delights, the secret ingredient is, and always has been, love.

Short Rib Bourguignon Serves 4

900 g beef short ribs, cut into 4 portions 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) olive oil 1 large onion, diced 2 carrots, peeled and sliced 2 celery stalks, diced 4 Tbs black peppercorns 6 garlic cloves, minced 2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste 2 Tbs all-purpose flour 1 bottle (750 mL) dry red wine (e.g. pinot noir) 2 cups (500 mL) beef stock 1 bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, tied together) 225 g cremini mushrooms, quartered 8-10 cippolini or pearl onions, peeled (optional) 1 knob butter To taste salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Pat dry the short ribs with paper towels.

Season generously with salt and pepper.

Heat 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the

ribs on all sides until browned (about 2-3 minutes per side). Remove and set aside.

2. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and peppercorns to the pot. Cook for 5-7 minutes, until softened and golden.

Stir in the garlic and tomato paste, cook for 1-2 minutes, until fragrant.

3. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir well. Cook for 1-2 minutes. Slowly pour in the wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Add the beef stock and bouquet garni. Return the short ribs to the pot. The liquid should just cover the ribs — add more stock or wine if necessary.

4. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then cover and transfer the pot to a 325° F oven. Braise for 2½-3 hours, or until the ribs are fork-tender.

5. About 30 minutes before the short ribs are done, sauté the mushrooms and onions (if using) in a skillet with a bit of butter until golden and tender.

6. Once the short ribs are tender, remove them and the bouquet garni from the pot.

Skim excess fat from the sauce. If the sauce is too thin, simmer on the stovetop until it thickens.

7. Stir in the sautéed mushrooms and onions and season to taste. Serve the short ribs over mashed potatoes. Spoon the rich sauce and vegetables on top.

“I live to cook for my loved ones,” says Scott Redekopp, Executive Chef for The Hotel Arts Group. “As cliché as it is, you can taste love. Preparing and cooking food with care and love translates to the finished dish.”

For Chef Scott, nothing beats the classic French Onion Soup on a cold day: “The rich broth and the smell of melted Gruyere transport me to a comfortable place.” Braised lamb shank pappardelle will “wrap your heart in love,” he adds.

Deep down, though, he says he’s a sucker for cream cheese icing, which served as part of the inspiration for Carrot ‘Cake’ French Toast. “At Hotel Arts we make our own carrot cake brioche but at home I simply use thick cut white bread or brioche, or leftover baguette – use whatever you want.”

Allow the bread to soak up the egg mix, and handle it gently as it will be delicate after the soak. “Do not be afraid to use your hands,” he adds. “Make sure your cream cheese and butter are at room temperature before making the frosting.

Raisins are an optional garnish.”

Carrot “Cake” French Toast Serves 2

4 slices of brioche or white bread or baguette or whatever bread you have 3 Tbs (45 mL) cooking oil 1 knob of butter

Egg Mix

4 eggs 3 Tbs (45 mL) carrot juice 3 Tbs brown sugar 2 Tbs (30 mL) milk or cream ¼ tsp salt ¼ tsp cinnamon Pinch of nutmeg Pinch of ground cardamom, optional

Whisk the eggs, carrot juice, sugar, milk, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cardamom (if using). Let bread soak in the whisked egg mix.

Cream Cheese Frosting 1 cup cream cheese ½ cup softened butter 3 Tbs (45 mL) vanilla 4 Tbs (60 mL) carrot juice ¼ tsp salt 3 cups granulated sugar Raisins, if desired

1. Whip together cream cheese, butter, vanilla, carrot juice, and salt. Gradually add the sugar as you are whipping the ingredients. Whip until smooth and spreadable.

2. Gently heat a nonstick pan on medium heat. Coat the pan with cooking oil and melt a knob of butter. Once the knob of butter is melted place the soaked bread

in the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes a side, until golden brown. Remove from pan and allow to cool slightly.

3. Generously spread the cream cheese filling in between the layers of French toast.

4. Garnish with raisins….

5. Serve with Love.

Chef Holly Holt credits her mother’s family, which she says is full of excellent cooks, with where her love of hospitality grew. “I love to teach folks about food, and I love to learn about food,” she explains. “I want to cook to make other people feel comfortable, happy, excited to eat, and loved.”

In her 20s, she backpacked through 30 countries, learning about flavour and local ingredients as she went. As owner and operator of SheCooks Catering, she has creative freedom to take advantage of what’s on hand and in season. “In the cooler months, I love anything with wild mushrooms. Wild mushroom and wild rice risotto with sage and roasted squash?

Yes, please!”

Here she shares her recipe for Braised Bison, Butternut Squash, and Mushroom Pot Pie, one that can be prepped ahead of time. “Pot pies are a labour of love. It’s simple, but it takes a bit of time. I love making pot pies for my dad, and this recipe really highlights our Indigenous roots.”

“Don’t be scared to cheat or adjust the recipe,” she advises. “Buy premade pie dough – I’m not judging – or eat the filling as a stew with a nice baguette. Can’t find bison? Use beef, moose meat, or venison.

Or completely omit the meat and add extra mushrooms. Just have fun!”

Braised Bison, Butternut Squash and Wild Mushroom Pot Pie Makes 1 - 23 cm pie, serves 4-5

Pie Dough

4 cups all-purpose flour Pinch salt 1 cup cold unsalted butter, diced 1 cup cold vegetable shortening, diced 1 cup (250 mL) ice cold water Add flour and salt to a large bowl. Add butter and shortening and start to gently 12 Culinaire | January/February 2025

mix with fingertips, flaking the butter with your thumb and index finger. Work fast, you want your fat to stay very cold. Add ice water and use a fork to just mix. Do not overmix. Pour on counter and bring together into a ball. Cut into 3 equal chunks. Wrap each with plastic wrap.

Freeze 1 piece for a rainy day, leave the other 2 in the fridge.

Filling

1 Tbs (15 mL) vegetable oil 300 g bison chuck or other stewing meat, cubed To taste salt and pepper 1 tsp minced garlic ½ cup leeks, washed well and sliced thin 1 tsp chopped fresh thyme 1 tsp chopped fresh sage ¼ cup (60 mL) red wine or strong black tea 2 cups (500 mL) vegetable or beef stock 1 ½ cups butternut squash, peeled and cubed 2 Tbs butter 250 g fresh mushrooms (chef uses oyster and king oyster mushrooms) 2 Tbs flour ¼ cup (60 mL) heavy cream 1. In a large pot on medium high heat, add oil. Add meat and season well with salt and pepper. Brown all sides of meat evenly. You may need to do this in batches.

2. Once meat is browned, add back to the pot if you cooked in batches, add garlic, leeks, thyme and sage. Cook about a minute and deglaze by adding

the wine or tea. When wine starts to cook off, add the stock. Cover with a lid, lower heat and gently simmer until meat is tender, at least an hour, maybe two.

Check occasionally.

3. When meat is tender, add butternut squash and cook another 10 minutes until squash is soft but not mushy.

Remove from heat, set aside.

4. In a large pot on medium high heat, add butter. Add mushrooms and season to taste. Sauté until tender.

5. Add flour and gently whisk. Now slowly add 1 ladle of liquid from the stew.

Continue to whisk. A thick paste will form around the mushrooms. Add another ladle of liquid. Whisk and use spatula to ensure your paste doesn’t burn on the bottom. Continue until all the liquid is gone. Now add remainder of filling from the pot and use a spatula to combine. It should be a thick stew now. Taste and season if required.

6. Now slowly mix in the heavy cream to finish. This makes a great stew, so you can just stop here and serve with some nice bread if you like!

7. Prepare your pie: place your 2 chunks of dough on a clean floured surface.

Roll out one piece and lay onto your pie tin for the base of your pie. Roll out the second chunk and set aside. Pour mix into pie crust and top with pie top. Trim edges and pinch sides with a fork. Poke 3 small holes on top with a knife to allow steam to escape.

8. Bake in oven at 375ºF for 45 minutes until pastry is lightly browned. Let cool 10 minutes before serving.

The foundation of George Gimlett’s cooking was shaped by his childhood.

“Growing up in a less fortunate family where food was scarce, I learned to appreciate every meal and ingredient, no matter how simple.” These experiences are the source of his passion for creating dishes that both nourish and leave a lasting impression.

“I’ve always wanted to provide meals that make people cared for, whether it’s family, friends, or guests at the restaurant.”

The restaurant is The Casual Canoe Bourbon & Craft Kitchen in Cold Lake, where George is the owner and operator. Here, the Bourbon Braised Beef is a standout dish, one that holds a special place in George’s heart.

“While it wasn’t on the menu from the very beginning, after seeing how much my family enjoyed it, I knew it would resonate with guests as well.”

He shares it in hopes that it resonates with your loved ones, too.

“Take your time and focus entirely on the task at hand. Cooking is an act of care, and an opportunity to be present, experiment, and create something beautiful to share with others. The love you put into it will come through the final dish.”

Bourbon Braised Beef Recipe Serves 6 - 8

1.35 kg Alberta chuck flat, cut into 225 g portions, trimmed of excess fat ¼ cup salt ¼ cup garlic powder ¼ cup onion powder Splash avocado oil to sear meat 1 pear, peeled and cored 5 oranges, zested and juiced 4 Ambrosia apples, peeled and cored 1 cup (250 mL) your favourite bourbon 1 cup (250 mL) pure maple syrup 15 cloves of garlic 3 Tbs smoked paprika 1 Tbs cayenne For garnish and serving: Garlic mashed potatoes Maple and port-glazed carrots Microgreens, fresh basil, and green onions

1. Combine salt, garlic powder, and onion powder in a bowl. Generously coat the chuck flat portions with the dry rub. Let the beef sit for 30 minutes to absorb the seasoning.

2. Heat a large pan over medium-high heat and add avocado oil. Sear each piece of beef on all sides until a golden crust forms. This step develops essential caramelized flavours that enhance the dish.

3. In a blender or Vitamix, combine the pear, oranges, apples, bourbon, maple syrup, garlic, smoked paprika, and cayenne. Blend until smooth and wellincorporated.

4. Place the seared beef in a large oven-safe dish or Dutch oven. Pour the braising liquid over the beef until submerged. Cover tightly with a lid or foil. Cook in a preheated oven at 190° F for 8–12 hours, or until the beef is tender and falls apart easily.

5. Allow the beef to rest in the braising liquid for 20 minutes after cooking.

This step ensures the meat reabsorbs moisture and remains tender.

6. Remove the beef and set aside.

Strain the braising liquid, then use an immersion blender to achieve a smooth, velvety consistency. Return the beef to the sauce to coat.

7. Plate the beef with garlic mashed potatoes and maple and port-glazed carrots. Garnish with microgreens, green onions, and fresh basil. Drizzle extra sauce over the beef for a rich finish.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 13

Confetti Sweets knows the joy of a cookie

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any of us grew up making cookies with our moms, or still enjoy baking them with our own kids, or just for ourselves – it’s a simple pleasure, putting together sugar, butter and flour and reaping the rewards afterwards. But have you met Kathy Leskow? Ten years ago, the Sherwood Park mom took her love of baking up a notch, embarking on the journey of turning cookies (cupcakes and cakes too) into a thriving business. And, while people around her describe Leskow as a trailblazer and ‘force to be reckoned with’, the modest entrepreneur puts her lasting success down to a couple of things: treating employees like family and keeping things simple.

“We’re not fancy. I still think of myself

14 Culinaire | January/February 2025

BY LUCY HAINES as a small-batch, local bakery – not an assembly line,” says Leskow of the 1,400 square foot Sherwood Park bakery (and a later addition, 1,400 square feet for a retail shop and offices) she’s had from the start. While cookies are her bread-and-butter, so to speak, (chocolate chunk and confetti sugar cookies are her top sellers, and the bakery can turn out several hundred a day), there have been milestones along the way that have taken Confetti Sweets from neighbourhood bakery to influential community business.

Awards and mementos line a shelf in the upstairs offices at Confetti Sweets, representing an eventful decade in business. There’s recognition from the local chamber of commerce, thanks for charitable giving to local nonprofits,

and photo books showcasing a couple of marquee events: an invitation to be part of the Canadian Country Music Awards in Edmonton in 2014, followed by scoring big as a provider of cookies (what Leskow jokingly describes as full fat, full sugar, real cookies) for the celebrity goodie bags at a pre-awards Hollywood Oscars event in 2015 and 2016. That was the highlight of her career, Leskow says, and it raised the bakery’s profile. All of a sudden, people knew about Confetti Sweets.

She didn’t come to baking in a linear way, though. After high school, Leskow was off to study marketing in southern Alberta, which led to stints as an event planner, teaching English overseas and working as a sales manager for a hotel in Japan. It wasn’t until she started baking cakes for her young

daughters’ birthdays (daughters Kaitlyn and Jaida, and son Davis) many years later, and realizing she had ‘horrible’ decorating skills that a change of course began. After taking classes on decorating and making chocolate, a new venture started to take shape.

“I started at the farmers’ market in Sherwood Park in 2008, calling it Confetti Sweets because it was like throwing things up in the air and seeing what comes down,” she remembers. “It was a mish mash of cookies and squares, and sometimes I’d do a whole day of baking, go to the market and come back home with all of it.” That tenacity not only served her well, it made an impact with others too.

“Kathy is a force; we owe a lot of our drive to Kathy,” says friend and fellow local maker Chad Stewart, of Chocolicious (chocolate coated licorice treats). That product has long been the biggest seller in the Confetti Sweets retail space. “She was a year ahead of us at the markets and she’d share her successes, her contacts. She was already on a roll then, and I’d go to her with ideas about selling wholesale etc. I watched her grow her small business and saw her willingness to take chances.”

One such chance came when Leskow signed on to sell dry cookie mix to Costco in Japan. That much growth (and volume) came too quickly, she says, so she pulled the plug on that venture after just one order. It was a similarly hard decision to close the company’s second retail spot in west Edmonton more recently, consolidating all efforts back into the Sherwood Park space.

“That’s always been the struggle; how to achieve a work/life balance,” says Leskow, who navigated a divorce and shared raising her children as she dealt with business ups and downs. “Do I take the risk and keep going with something? It was so hard to get to where I was; I’ve never wanted to give up. I like to try things, see if it works. I roll with the punches.”

Leskow has found success using the bakeshop as a hub for local makers; some 70 Canadian and local creators have goods for sale (from jewelry to frozen food) alongside her cupcakes and specialty cookies, including a decadent flavour of the month variety. “My philosophy is that if someone comes in and asks, “Did you make this? We can say ‘yes’. For our products, everyone in the bakery is trained

on all equipment, ovens, and in making the cookies from scratch.”

In the double-bay industrial kitchen/ retail space, over a dozen full and part time employees create cookies, cakes and cupcakes seven days a week. Four ovens start running at 5 am, baking off goods for sale on-site, or rolled into cookie balls and frozen for delivery to customers like Sysco wholesaler. A dry cookie mix (in several flavours) is sold in grocery stores around Alberta (Sobeys, Save-on Foods, Freson Bros, Calgary Co-op, and more).

Leskow credits her staff for helping grow the company despite whatever challenges have come along. The core crew includes sales manager Shannon Chambers, operations manager Danielle Power, supervisors Susana and Tristina, and marketing mavens Vanessa Lukanuk and Heather Rolhesier. From team-building events, like attending haunted houses or Oilers games together, to just maintaining a light atmosphere in the kitchen, Leskow says staff satisfaction is a priority.

“Kathy gave me opportunities – I went from being a mascot to a cookie maker. It put me through university,” says Rachel McAmmond, who worked for Confetti Sweets for a decade. “Seeing Kathy dress up as Cookie Monster one Halloween is a great memory, and working the markets at Christmas too. She has a growth mindset, with world cookie domination as her goal. It was from her that I learned about

spreading the joy of a cookie.”

Leskow admits she’s better with priorities now than in the early days of the business. As the CEO (cookie eating officer), the now 48-year-old juggles a blended family, a regular work day and a five minute commute with a never-ending to-do list in her head.

“I’m always thinking of new opportunities – should we do a cheesecake or cinnamon buns, franchise the business, chase more corporate business with custom branded cookies? But we decided we weren’t going to do anything crazy this past year; we’re good where we are right now,” she says.“The most important thing is to look at something and decide if it makes sense for us.”

Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 15

S TE P BY S TE P

Raising a Tasty Toast to the New Year!

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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

he new year brings with it new goals. Maybe they pertain to fitness or healthier eating habits.

Or maybe you just want to try new foods, or get reacquainted with old favourites.

Cottage cheese (yes, cottage cheese) fits into all those categories. This divisive dairy product is having a bit of a moment and deservedly so. It’s an incredibly good source of protein, is high in calcium, potassium, selenium and B12, plus if you’re counting calories, cottage cheese is very low cal. Cottage cheese may seem incredibly ordinary, but in all honesty, it’s anything but.

16 Culinaire | January/February 2025

So what exactly is cottage cheese?

Cottage cheese is a fresh cheese that isn’t ripened or aged. It’s made by adding an acid to pasteurized milk which causes the milk solids to separate from the whey.

These solids are then cut into small pieces and drained from the whey, becoming curds. Curds are then agitated or pressed to release as much moisture as possible and when they’re dry, they’re tossed into a combination of cream, milk, citric acid, and salt thus becoming the cottage cheese we know and love. Or like. Or don’t like it yet but are going to give it a try.

One of the great things about cottage

cheese is just how versatile it is. Like a blank canvas, you can do almost anything to it, and it will taste great.

For me, the curds aren’t an issue so for a mid-afternoon snack I’ll add some cottage cheese to a bowl then add sliced cucumber, salt, pepper, and if I’m feeling fancy, some chopped fresh herbs. I’ve also been known to eat it straight out of the container with just some lemon pepper stirred into it. The high protein keeps me satisfied until dinner, and I love that I’m getting calcium too. Being over 50, these are the things I think about!

If all my talk about curds hasn’t scared

you off, I’m here to tell you that you can enjoy cottage cheese without the curds.

I realize that cottage cheese doesn’t look super attractive, and that some folks don’t enjoy its texture either. Want an easy fix to alleviate these issues? Just whip it, whip it good! That’s right. All you have to do is toss the cottage cheese into a food processor with a little olive oil, lemon juice and salt and process until it’s creamy. Gone are the curds, but all of the high-density nutrition remains. How easy is that?

Now that I’m aware of the wonders of whipped cottage cheese, I’ve been on a tasty toast kick. Sweet or savoury, I love a good piece of toast. And variations abound. I played around with what I had in my kitchen, and the toast will change with the seasons as fresh fruit and vegetables come into play. Cottage cheese toast is best made right before you want to eat it, but if you’d like to bring it to work, the components are portable and perhaps use a sturdy flatbread or cracker in place of the toasted bread. If you’re more of a dip person than a toast person, feel free to add your favourite things into the whipped cottage cheese to make a killer dip. Things like fresh herbs, caramelized onions, roasted or raw garlic, hot sauce, grainy mustard, you get the picture. But seeing as this is a post about toast, let’s get toasty.

Whipped Cottage Cheese Serves 6 to 8

2 cups (500 mL) cottage cheese (4% or 2% is best) 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil ½ Tbs (7 mL) fresh lemon juice Pinch of salt

In a food processor, add all the ingredients and process until smooth and creamy. Scrape into a bowl and keep refrigerated for up to one week.

Cottage Cheese Toast with Jam

Lightly toast slices of sourdough or baguette. Spread with a few heaping tablespoons of whipped cottage cheese and top with your favourite jam or fruit compote (I used sour cherry jam), pomegranate arils, and fresh mint.

Cottage Cheese Toast with Roasted Tomatoes, Balsamic Reduction, and Basil

Preheat the oven to 375º F. Place cocktail or cherry tomatoes in a small shallow pan or baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Roast until the tomatoes slump in their skins, about 15-20 minutes depending on the size of the tomatoes.

To make the balsamic reduction: In a small saucepan over medium heat, pour in about ¼ cup (60 mL) balsamic vinegar.

Simmer until it’s reduced by half and seems syrupy. Remove from the heat.

Lightly toast slices of sourdough or baguette. Spread with a few heaping

tablespoons of whipped cottage cheese.

Top with the roasted tomatoes, drizzle with balsamic reduction and garnish with fresh basil leaves, flaky salt, and fresh black pepper.

Cottage Cheese Toast with Pear, Honey, and Toasted Walnuts

Lightly toast slices of sourdough or baguette. Spread with a few heaping tablespoons of whipped cottage cheese.

Top with slices of fresh pear, toasted walnuts and drizzle with honey. Flaky salt is optional.

Cottage Cheese Toast with Crunchy Vegetables

Toast sturdy multigrain or sprouted wheat bread. Spread with a few tablespoons of whipped cottage cheese.

Top with slices of cucumber and radish.

Garnish with broccoli, or alfalfa sprouts and fresh dill. Sprinkle with flaky salt and fresh black pepper.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 17

The Magic of Miso

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Ideas to Amp Up Your Everyday Recipes

BY MALLORY FRAYN

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iso is having a heyday right now as fermented food products have never been more popular with chefs and home cooks alike.

This fermented soybean paste is dead simple to make, just cooked and mashed soybeans and salt, left to sit covered at room temperature to ferment until it has aged as desired (usually taking a couple of weeks to a month for white or “shiro” miso, and up to a year for red or “aka” miso). However, in the Western world, we’ve historically bought the stuff at the store, relegated it to miso soup and little else, leaving you with a mostly full tub that gets forgotten in the back of your refrigerator. Until now, that is!

Miso soup is delicious, but only one of the many applications for this versatile foodstuff. Let’s explore ways to get creative with this fermented fare!

1

Marinades and glazes

Probably the easiest and most forgiving starting point for experimenting with miso in your everyday recipes is to use it as the salt component in marinades and glazes.

Meat, especially red meat, can hold a lot of seasoning without tasting too salty, so it’s a good entry point for

18 Culinaire | January/February 2025

playing with miso because the chances of messing up are low.

White miso marinated duck is something that is easily whipped up with the addition of garlic, ginger, citrus, rice vinegar, and some soy sauce, allowing the works to mingle overnight before searing or grilling the meat. You could easily do the same with other proteins, whether beef, chicken, or pork.

Miso glazed ham would make a

welcome addition to any holiday meal.

Simply mix the miso of your choice with mustard (ideally Dijon and grainy) and maple syrup, and brush it onto the ham, glazing it as it cooks.

You could also mix a touch of miso with soft butter and some chopped, fresh herbs to baste under the skin of a whole roast chicken or turkey, helping to add moisture to the white meat, especially as it can tend to dry out.

2

Salad dressings and condiments

Condiments are great on their own, but often even better when mixed with other condiments. Mustard mayo, honey mustard, and chipotle mayo are all excellent examples of this, and miso is no exception.

Stir it into homemade or Japanese kewpie mayonnaise for a tasty dipper for fries. Alternately, mix it with mustard and use that to top your burgers or grilled sausages. You could even add red miso into homemade barbecue sauce in place of soy sauce or Worcestershire sauce to add the umami that these more traditional ingredients would usually lend. White miso also makes a fun addition to pesto recipes, especially if you swap parsley for cilantro to make it more Asian-inspired.

Finally, miso can serve as the seasoning source in many of your favourite salad dressings. Use it in place of anchovy paste in Caesar salad, or even instead of salt in your preferred vinaigrette, as it will also help to emulsify the oil and vinegar.

4

Pasta sauces

3

Seasoning for vegetable purées

Ever get bored of basic mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes? While these staples are always solid on their own with just a bit (ok, a lot) of butter and salt, sometimes variety is the spice of life, and you want to experiment with something off the beaten path.

Blending white miso into extra creamy mashed potatoes won’t have everyone at the dinner table freaking out over what you did to wreck this classic side, however it will add that extra something that may have them questioning what

While generations of Italian Nonnas might roll in their graves at the thought of adding miso to pasta, it’s a sensible addition when you consider the role that miso plays in various Asian noodle dishes (think ramen, cold sesame noodles, soba, etc).

White miso’s primary attributes that play well in pasta dishes, are both its saltiness and its creaminess, so you can riff on traditional cream-based pastas as a starting point. Alfredo sauce already has some funk from the addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano, so a hint of miso just helps to amp that up even further.

Carbonara is another vessel that is well suited to benefit from miso’s salt and slight sweetness, to counter the richness of the bacon and eggs already in the recipe.

If you want to go deeper down the rabbit hole though, there is no reason why you couldn’t add darker, red miso into tomato or meat-based sauces like Bolognese.

Simply swap the beef stock in the recipe for red miso broth instead!

you did different this time for them to have an added depth and savouriness. It's your call as to whether or not you want to disclose your secrets.

Miso, either white or red, might be even better puréed into sweet potatoes, yams, celeriac, turnips, or parsnips, given that all the above have some inherent sweetness that plays well with salt. A little goes a long way; remember you can always add more, but you can’t take it out, so start small and taste as you go.

5

Salty sweets

The last place you would probably think of adding miso also has the potential to be the tastiest: dessert! A little goes a long way when you’re supplementing sweet applications with it, however it can add both salinity and umami, for that “je ne sais quoi” to balance out the sugar.

Salted caramel is a fun starting point; just sub miso for salt, to taste, when finishing your favourite recipe. Similarly, it can be melted into many different ice cream bases, like milk chocolate and miso, with pretzel bits stirred in at the end for texture. Generally speaking, miso and chocolate make a pretty stellar combo, given that chocolate has a bitter, savoury quality to it that is rounded out by the richness and salinity of the miso. Miso chocolate mousse? Yes please!

You could even add it into various frosting or icing recipes when baking cakes - for example, carrot cake with miso cream cheese frosting. Just be mindful to be thorough when incorporating miso into your dessert of choice, to make sure it fully dissolves so you avoid ending up with unwanted mouthfuls of salt.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 19

s u o l l e v r a M iso!

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Miso Butter 100 g unsalted butter, room temperature 1 Tbs (15 mL) shiro miso paste

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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY

HERE ARE ONLY THREE ingredients that make up traditional miso: soybeans, salt, and koji (a type of fungus cultivated on rice and other grains). Allowing this mixture to age for months or years gives miso it’s generous umami flavours.

Miso is a powerhouse ingredient to add savoury depth to any meal.

The most complementary miso to use is Shiro miso (white miso). It is adaptable, being slightly lighter in flavour. Shinshi miso (yellow miso) is fermented for a longer time having

20 Culinaire | January/February 2025

a stronger flavour. Another miso that you may find in your local grocer is Genmai miso. This miso is made with brown rice, giving it a sweet, earthy flavour and golden brown colour.

In spite of miso’s distinguished flavour profile, it isn’t precious nor does it need a host of ingredients to show off. Its beauty is in its simplicity.

From popcorn to Nobu style sable fish, miso transcends every day to extraordinary. From home cook to master chef, you will never want to run out of your new pantry staple.

Combine butter and miso until well mixed.

Store in the fridge for a couple of weeks or in the freezer for 6 months.

Uses: this is great to keep in the freezer for when you need a punch of flavour in a dish.

- You can melt a couple of tablespoons and pour over freshly popped popcorn.

- Sauté greens in this butter and take them to another level.

- Use this butter as a base for gravy or soup.

- Melt this over boiled potatoes or before roasting potatoes.

- You can even use it to butter a thick piece of toasted sourdough bread.

Miso Roasted Sablefish

Miso Steak Bites

4 sablefish fillets 4 tsp kosher salt 7 Tbs (105 mL) sake, split 6 Tbs (90 mL) white miso 3 Tbs (45 mL) mirin 1 tsp sugar

1½ Tbs ginger, roughly chopped 1 clove garlic 1 Tbs (15 mL) red miso paste 1 Tbs (15 mL) rice wine vinegar ½ tsp (2-3 mL) sesame oil 5 Tbs (75 mL) avocado oil 1 Tbs (15 mL) mirin 500 g steak (ribeye, sirloin or strip loin) or 4 chicken breasts ½ tsp black pepper 2 Tbs (30 mL) oil

Serves 4

1. Sprinkle the kosher salt over the sablefish fillets and let sit for 30 minutes.

2. Rinse the sablefish with 4 tablespoons (60 mL) of sake (not water) and pat dry.

3. In a small bowl combine the miso, mirin, 3 tablespoons (45 mL) sake and sugar.

4. In a container that you can lay the sablefish fillets flat, add the marinade and the fillets. Cover the fillets with the marinade on both sides. Leave the fillets flesh side down in the marinade and cover. Marinate in the fridge for 2 to 4 days.

5. When you are ready to cook, scrape the marinade off the fillets with your finger and place, flesh side down, on a parchment paper lined baking sheet.

Note: the marinade burns easily so you want to remove most of it.

6. Preheat the oven to 400º F. 7. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Do not turn.

Serves 4

1. Make the dressing by combining the ginger, garlic, miso, rice wine vinegar, sesame and avocado oils, and mirin in a blender and process until smooth and creamy.

2. Season the steak (or chicken) with black pepper.

3. In a medium skillet, over mediumhigh heat, add 2 tablespoons (30 mL) oil and let it get hot.

4 Add the beef (or chicken) cubes to the pan, being mindful as the oil will splatter.

5. Let the steak cook 45 seconds on each side (and the chicken a minute each side). Then turn the pieces and repeat on the other side. Cook the steak to your liking and the chicken all the way through.

6. Remove from pan and reserve in a bowl, continue cooking until all meat

is finished. Add the dressing to the cooked meat and stir to coat.

Note: The dressing goes well with

edamame, bok choy, and rice. It is also lovely as part of a salad with rice noodles, grated carrot, edamame, cucumber and radish.

Parmesan Miso Roasted Butternut Squash Serves 4

1 butternut squash 1 Tbs (15 mL) soy sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) white miso paste 2 Tbs (30 mL) avocado oil ½ tsp black pepper ½ cup Parmesan cheese (but who am I to tell you how much Parmesan to use?)

1. Preheat oven to 375º F. 2. Split the squash in half lengthwise and peel and remove the seeds. Slice the squash in 1 cm thick slices.

3. Combine the soy sauce, miso, oil, and pepper, in a small bowl. Brush the paste onto both sides of the squash. Place on a parchment lined baking sheet.

4. Roast approximately 20 minutes or until soft when pierced with a fork.

5. While the squash is roasting, grate the Parmesan.

6. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and sprinkle the Parmesan. Return to oven and roast another 3 minutes or until cheese is melted.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 21

Rundle Bar, Fairmont Banff Springs

IYKYK

Charlie's Watch Repair

Alberta’s Hidden Cocktail Bars and Speakeasies

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ear your best going-out ‘fit, do your hair, and sneak through the hidden, Narnia-like entrance to a dim, cosy, wood panelled speakeasy. A well-dressed mixologist will stir you up an artisanal cocktail from the curated bar, just to your liking, while they entertain you with clever jokes and a showy pour. It's that feeling of exclusivity - that you’re in on a secret - and mystery in an intimate venue, that impresses friends and brings us back for more.

Each bar manager, mixologist and restaurant curator has their own definition of what a speakeasy is. “For me, it's a lot of things, it's a space that’s a cocktail bar, that’s creative that has something fun to it, and it shouldn’t be

22 Culinaire | January/February 2025

BY LAUREN KALINOWSKI

easy to find. Maybe it has a password or it’s behind a bookcase, there’s a secret element that surprises you, so it doesn’t look like what it is at first,” says Matt Eagle of Charlie’s Watch Repair in Calgary.

The best speakeasy bars show that you are a part of the in-crowd, sharing with your friends a unique and intimate night out. Google and social media make it almost impossible to run a truly secret spot, but the glamour and nostalgia drives us out to these places anyway (I acknowledge the irony of this article).

It's hard, economically, to fill a bar on word-of-mouth alone.

Speakeasies, hidden hangouts where alcohol would be served during a time it was illegal, are usually associated with

American mob culture. But Canada participated too, with the Canada Temperance Act of 1878 that gave local governments the option to ban alcohol.

By 1917 all provinces except Quebec had opted in.

One hundred years ago, Alberta did away with prohibition, but it existed here from 1916-1923. There’s a remnant in one last dry county, Raymond, in the southern part of the province. Producing and exporting alcohol was legal, but consumption and sales were not. We’ve made something that was necessary back then, fun now.

And post-COVID, we’re seeing nostalgia in cocktail culture, food, and fashion; we want experiences and novelty. Bring on the pearls, blow outs

and mystique of romanticised eras gone-by. We want the carefully designed ambience of low lighting in vintage decor. We’re looking to the past as we follow the projection of the crafted cocktail. These small venues with excellent service, glamorous settings and customised drinks are the experience people want right now. They’re creative, artistic and unique.

Trending nostalgic drinks include reinventions of the old classics - served in stunning glasses, you can taste housemade infusions, interesting bitters, and creative garnishes. Mai-tais and tiki drinks are appearing in fun drinkware, as well as plays on the 90s Cosmo. Almost all establishments are offering zeroproof non-alcoholic options that are just as pretty and delicious.

Try some of these in Alberta’s resurgence of modern speakeasies across the province. They offer bespoke drinks (tell the bartender your favourite spirits), nostalgic snacks like devilled eggs or steak tartare, and luxurious decor. They’re lovely venues for a private party if you have a special occasion.

EDMONTON

“Secretive by nature” up the stairs of the JW Marriott and behind a bookshelf, Alchemy is an intimate high-end cocktail bar with a gorgeous heated patio overlooking the ICE District.

Classic cocktails mix with modern flavours and techniques.

Try The Paper Plane, a bourbon, amaro, aperol and lemon cocktail.

Echoing the elegant colonial era, Little Hong Kong (LHK) is a beacon of sophistication hidden behind a cabinet in Baijiu. This secret spot experiments with all sorts of unexpected ingredients, especially teas, but also wasabi, curry, sundried tomato, and house made cordials. Head Bartender Lex Pocock would prefer not to have a menu, making drinks on the fly all night, and he’ll make any prompt into a cocktail, “if it doesn’t work out, I’ll put it to the side and make another, and I’ll go back to it later to figure out why it went wrong.”

Try one of his Japanese Highball creations at the bar, made with gin, vodka or whiskey. According to Pocock,

The Sidecar Room, Rundle Bar, Fairmont Banff Springs

speakeasies are “full creative freedom and you get the experience of a place.”

The Asian-inspired Sencha Negroni of gin, Campari, Cocchi Americano, and Galliano, infused with tangerine sencha tea showcases the many ways tea can be incorporated.

“Follow the butterfly” to the hidden NABI, a Korean bar on 104 Avenue for carefully curated drinks and snacks. Try the dessert-like Shochu Cobbler with shochu, tahini almond orgeat, melon, cucumber, lime and orange blossom mist or the NABI Frappe mocktail featuring Fawkes Coffee cold brew, sesamealmond orgeat, cinnamon, lemon peel and Seedlip spice.

BANFF

The Rundle Bar in the Banff Springs is a treat in itself, but behind a bookcase to the right of the bar there’s The Sidecar Room embodying the cozy darkacademia feel for “a new era of glamour.”

Try the Luna, a tropical-fresh drink of Coconut Vodka, dry curaçao, yuzu, honey, lemon and clarified milk.

CALGARY

“Ask for Charlie” inside Salt & Brick.

This one looks like a real business under the guise of Charlie’s Watch Repair with the promise that “time stands still” as patrons enter. Its “a 1940’s elegant space, with beautiful, crushed velvet booths, amazing pictures and wallpaper, a bespoke bar and great music, we’re always changing things up,” Matt Eagle, the Manager and Curator says. There are no reservations and you have to ask to speak to Charlie to be led to the entrance.

Experience the “art of bartending” with The King of Kyoto, a cocktail of Japanese Whiskey, pomegranate liqueur, sweet vermouth and scotch. Its Eagle’s personal favourite, “I work to create a balanced menu for everyone, I want to create something for everyone, and this one’s for me.” Perhaps you’ll prefer The Starlet, a pretty cognac, Aperol, strawberry syrup, lemon, lavender bitters and bubbles drink. In any case, Eagle reminds us “food and drinks are the only art you can experience with all January/February 2025 | Culinaire 23

your senses,” and they certainly stand out here.

Enter “the underbelly of Comery Block Barbecue,” past the kitchen and down the stairs to find Prickett Richard under a brick arch in the basement. “We don’t advertise ourselves as a speakeasy but that’s probably how people refer to us,” says General Manager Zachary Fox. Creative, unique drinks, a cozy atmosphere and simple, delicious snacks. They also opened a new bar, Blue Rock Swim Club last November, with another riff on the speakeasy style, it’s behind a wooden door, below South Block on 25th Avenue SW. For something different try Lady Lazarus and taste mezcal, reposado Tequila, raspberry Liqueur, vanille de Madagascar, lemon, chili syrup.

“We’re trying to find ingredients that pair together that you wouldn't think of,” Fox says, “there’s always room to play.”

A “moody experience”, Shelter Cocktail Bar mixes “pre-prohibition

Vine & Dine at Vero Bistro January 16, 23, and 29 As always, we're starting 2025 with a first class favourite, and it will be our 16th year at Vero Bistro feasting on Chef Jenny’s outstanding cuisine and her carefully created dishes.

One-off Vine & Dine at The Artist Lounge, January 31 Always so enjoyable, join us at The Artist Lounge for a relaxed wander round the new exhibition, then take your seats for our new 6-course pairing menu!

Vine & Dine at La Brezza February 12, 20, and 27 Lucky us, La Brezza's new chef, Luca Brunelli, who has just arrived from Italy, is going off-menu and preparing new 24 Culinaire | January/February 2025

style cocktails with modern mixing technology” in a truly unique set up.

For the nostalgic 90s kids, try the Jawbreaker, candy-like cocktail of mezcal, aperitif wine, passionfruit, banana, lemon, blue delta, lapsang and popping candy or for the more mature drinks, a spirit-forward Nightmare on 1st Street containing Ardbeg Wee Beastie, rye, cacao and vanilla.

Amidst cozy decor and low-lit charm, Alberta’s modern speakeasies offer a dash of escapism with a generous pour of nostalgia. Each secret entrance and curated cocktail is a chance to timetravel, all while enjoying the warmth of a cozy venue and a well-crafted drink.

So, dress up, step in, and raise a glass to the experience-driven night out— where every visit is an invitation into a hidden world.

There are so many speakeasies that we couldn’t fit here, and there’s more opening every month, but do pay a visit to: CALGARY

-Paper Lantern

-Betty Lou’s Library

-Ajito

-Prohibition Bar & Lounge

CANMORE

-La Hacienda

-Bar Deja Vu

Lauren Kalinowski is a freelance writer who lives and works in downtown Edmonton. She loves to cook for a full table, eat everything, and always has an opinion.

contemporary Italian dishes just for Vine & Dine!

new menu of Safari Grill's satisfying and flavourful food!

Best of NOtaBLE February 21 and March 6 Return of the classics! NOtaBLE The Restaurant is celebrating 15 years this year, and we’re celebrating with two nights at this always superb restaurant, and enjoying a pairing menu of their much-loved classic dishes over the last 15 years!

Vine & Dine at Queens March 20 and 27 We're coming back again to Queens on March 20 and 27, when they’re opening just for us with a six-course pairing dinner created especially for Vine & Dine!

Bogle Winemaker Dinner at Oxbow February 25 6th generation Jody Bogle, of California's Bogle Family Vineyards, is with us for one special night at Oxbow for a premium winemaker pairing dinner!

Corks and Talks with Brian Keating at Safari Grill, March 15 Brian Keating is away all January and February filming more animal antics to entertain us with hilarious new videos and stories, while we're feasting on a

Wine and culinary tour to Alsace and Champagne September 19 - October 1, 2025 Our wine and culinary tour to Alsace and Champagne last year was so superb that we’re coming back again this year so more people have a chance to enjoy it!

Just the last four places available now!

New events are added regularly so check vineanddine.ca as these evenings can (and do!) sell out quickly!

Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places, and to be included in our bi-monthly updates.

We try to cater for all allergies.

Rum The perfect beach getaway, no beach required W

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

e love rum – and what’s not to love about it?

Long eschewed for the characteristics of its most popular brands with flabby, saccharine, or poorly balanced examples, rum is having an incredible moment with the best examples showcasing traditional flavours, but the spirit is becoming more for sipping and savouring rather than mixing

with coke or shooting.

As a side bonus, for January and February we really felt that focusing on a spirit that encapsulates the beach getaway might be welcome indeed. While these are all delicious spirits worthy of attention, we won’t blame you if enjoy a couple of piña coladas after you shovel the walk too.

Appleton Estates 8 Year Old Reserve Rum, Jamaica The Appleton 8 was created to celebrate the 250th anniversary of one of the great distilleries in the world. A beautiful rum on the nose with a balance of cane and molasses notes, spice and lime citrus, but also a clean honey and vanilla scent. Robust and spicy on the palate, it’s more akin to a sipping spirit than a mixer, but you’ll be happy to have this around – however you wish to enjoy it.

CSPC 829043 $40-44

Rest and be Thankful Lluidas Vale Small Batch Rum Jamaica A Jamaican rum aged for 4 years in the hot tropics and then shipped back to Scotland for a further 3 years, and finally – here in our hands. Limited to only ten casks total, this won’t be widely available, but if curious, look for a bit of heat (46 percent ABV) showing off abundant tropical fruits akin to pineapple and banana, toffee, chalky minerals, and a bit of fresh leather. Excellent on the palate, it could also work as a whisky alternative in mixed drinks.

CSPC 895327 $90-105

Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum, United States This old-school rum is named for Norman Collins, aka “Sailor Jerry” from Nevada, the irreverent father of the old-school tattoo.

It’s now 25 years old, and made in the Virgin Islands from a blend of Caribbean rums infused with baking spices as well as lime, but on the nose it’s all vanilla and chocolate, which follow through to the palate, and then comes the caramel and a little oak, with a little pepper at the end. Try in a hot cider this winter, with lemon, and some mulling spice!

CSPC 733799 $33-40 Chic Choc Spiced Rum, Quebec A rum for ‘daring explorers and adventurers’, and people who enjoy a soft and rounded sipper with a big personality, Chic Choc is a blend of three to seven-year-old Caribbean rums infused with six wild boreal spices from the Chic Choc mountains on Quebec’s beautiful Gaspé Peninsula: green alder, spikenard, lovage root, gale seeds, angelica, and witherod berries. I can’t tell you I know what those all taste like, but I can tell you it’s a totally enjoyable, easy drinking, warming sip on its own or in a cocktail.

CSC 889866 $33-39

Appleton Estates 8 Year Old Double Cask Rum, Jamaica Appleton’s first cask-finished release with Speyside single malt whisky barrels meeting American white oak on the sunny island of Jamaica. Strictly limited to 13,000 bottles worldwide, Canada only got a smallish number of this one-time bottling. The epitome of a sipping spirit with a slightly heady 43 percent ABV look for honey and raisin hints with caramel and citrus and a mouth pleasing feeling. Absolutely delicious.

CSPC 100192 $54-58 Burwood Honey Spiced Rhum, Alberta So here’s something entirely different – a Calgary rum not made from sugar cane or molasses - but it’s from Burwood, so we know it’s distilled from honey (that’s what the ‘h in ‘rhum’ is for)! After fermenting and distilling, the spirit is aged in second use bourbon barrels and then they add 12 spices: citrus peels, baking spices, pepper, mace, and banana – and then a little raw honey too. So perfect for your hot buttered rum or your dark and stormy!

CSPC 899211 $41-43 January/February 2025 | Culinaire 25

No,

thank you!

BY TOM FIRTH

A

lcohol consumption is declining, and no one is really 100 percent sure why these days. Is it changing tastes? A renewed focus on health and wellness? Or are we just moving on from our old consumption patterns?

When I was younger, moderate consumption of alcohol (primarily wine) was deemed a near necessity for its healthy benefits, but also around the mid-nineties, wine became the hot new thing. It was aspirational, it appealed to educated consumers, it was classy, fun, and mixed aspects of hobbies, eating and drinking for pleasure, travel, and science – who doesn’t get excited talking about soils and plant physiology? Just me? Ok then.

Back in the early days of fall, when planning these pages, we had the chance to take on some Mount Royal University Psychology Students for a “Work Integrated Learning” project and we tasked our six students with collecting, collating, and delivering, all manner of data on alcohol consumption and trends.

Unfortunately, space and timing don’t allow us to include all their material or

26 Culinaire | January/February 2025

name them – but they were crucial in helping us to understand the data out there.

COVID altered alcohol consumption habits and accelerated some of those trends too. We perhaps all got a little stir crazy for a bit, but as we moved on, we started looking a little closer at our health and habits, but also at how the economy and inflation affected our spending. Post COVID burnout, an aging population, and discretionary funds, all play a role, but at the same time, cheap, legal, and widely available cannabis products are everywhere, with the added benefit of precisely measured doses too. One can choose exactly what their recreational drug will contain - far more precisely than moving from one pint to two.

This isn’t to say that “no one” is drinking anymore. Ask some of the more premium brands or even some of the more boutique-y shops around, and they might say things are great. Business as normal - carry on my good chap, but we are finding that certain segments of the population are reducing their consumption.

A population that is aging and perhaps more alert to some of the health risks of moderate consumption (let’s refuse to define that for now) is another consideration. Remember when the news was all about bacon and processed meats being bad for you (about 2018)? Some, if not most, of that study was debunked, but quite a few of us chose to rethink some of those meat choices or reduce the occasions we enjoyed them. Health Canada announced in 2023 the updated guidelines for alcohol consumption, and many were shocked – or at least in

disbelief that the “healthy” amount of alcohol was effectively… zero. Whether there is a health benefit to some, or limited alcohol consumption versus none will continue to evolve, but perhaps we were traditionally overstating the healthy aspects of a little bit of booze?

Are older, more affluent Canadians still drinking like they used to? Possibly, but at the same time, we also see significant data that suggests that younger – under about 35 years old – Canadians are somewhat ambivalent about alcohol and perhaps more likely to drink only

occasionally, but more likely to use cannabis in place of alcohol. Those youngest Canadians of drinking age are also more likely to not see alcohol as part of a “bon vivant” or acceptable overindulgence as a social or party component. Gen Z (1997- 2012) drink about 20 percent less than Millennials (1985-1996) – who also as a segment, consume about 43 percent of no and low-alcohol products. Think too, that younger Albertans of around 25 years of age, weren’t going to the bars for fun from about 2020-2023. Is it middle aged Canadians then who are also drinking less? It seems that way. That 40ish to 60ish demographic is still drinking, but less frequently for the most part, and in smaller quantities too.

But also, we have renewed diligence towards a zero-tolerance approach to drinking and driving. In short, it’s just not worth the risk - and likely your friends or family will not shrug off a connection who “drives anyways” anymore. Rideshares or other options are so widespread now that there is really no excuse for having too much to imbibe and driving home. On the other side of that coin, we don’t go out quite as frequently as before. Going out for dinner or for a few drinks is a less common activity as we stay at home more or enjoy smaller get togethers if we do entertain. The pressure to drink is diminished.

There also is a significant lag between alcohol production and that same bottle getting into the hands of consumers. A grape harvested in France in 2021 or 2022 might only be reaching Canada around now. But in that time, that bottle might have been bought and sold a few times, from regional distributors to importers to

wholesalers, finally to retailers and into the drinker’s hot little hands. Every single one of those steps might report strong sales or optimistic numbers only for that bottle in the end to languish – in a manner of speaking - in a restaurant cellar or retail shelf. It’s not the individual bottle that is languishing, think of it like… “time on the shelf per thousand bottles” - that’s the number going up.

So, when we see reports of countries pulling out vines or growing “wine lakes” these are the results of those changing habits. China isn’t buying premium wine like it used to, and impending American tariffs will likely quell the appetite of imported beverage alcohol, as the practice should incentivize domestically made products. Here in Canada, several liquor boards have trumpeted that sales are higher than ever, but usually that is referencing dollar sales rather than volume. Increasing distribution channels in some markets can artificially “boost” volume, but that is the volume moving from a government warehouse to another retail channel – not reflecting consumed products.

All this just means that now, perhaps for the first time in six decades, alcohol no longer takes pride of place on nearly every table. It’s perfectly fine to enjoy alcohol, but it’s also 100 percent acceptable not to imbibe – and it’s really no one’s business but your own.

The old adage still applies, “Drink less, but better.” So, if you are still enjoying wine, beer, or spirits, now is as good a time as any to pop the cork on that special wine, enjoy that locally made craft beer, and share a dram or two with some good company. But if you aren’t – no blame from us.

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 27

Latte Art

W

e’ve all seen it—whether at our favourite local coffee shop or in viral videos on social media — those beautiful pictures painted in our coffees and matcha lattes inspire joy in anyone who loves a good caffeine fix. This culinary artistry we’ve become so enamoured with is latte art, and it’s taken the café industry by storm!

The intrigue and fascination surrounding latte art have grown so much in recent years that anyone who wants to participate in the foamy fun can take specialty classes to learn how to do it themselves. Unsurprisingly, it is as challenging as it looks… For culinary artists, however, this can be an exciting opportunity to test their skills or learn a new trick.

So now you’re probably wondering: What constitutes true latte art? Where did it come from? And what kind of skills are needed to master it?

If we want to get technical, latte art is the design you see on a hot beverage made with foamy milk. While that 28 Culinaire | January/February 2025

BY ERIKA RAVNSBORG

sounds simple, thanks to the creativity of baristas worldwide, it can be so much more. Latte art can be as sweet and simple as a heart in the middle of your drink or as intricate and exquisite as Starry Night by Van Gogh, which is currently trending on social media.

The origins of latte art remain somewhat mysterious. While the combination of espresso and steamed milk dates back to the 19th century, the actual art of the latte appeared later. Some believe it began in Italy in the 1980s when Luigi Lupi and his master, Petro Merlo, experimented with cappuccinos to make them more aesthetically pleasing. Others argue that latte art originated in Seattle, Washington, at the popular coffee shop Espresso Vivace.

Creating a decent latte is an art in itself, but adding this unique and creative touch requires hand-eye coordination, precision, timing, and a bit of flair. For baristas skilled in latte art, the espresso serves as their canvas, the milk as their

paint, and the magic happens when the two combine, opening up endless design possibilities.

Perfecting latte art doesn’t just begin when you pour the milk into the cup. Mastering the steam wand is an accomplishment in itself. Baristas must control steam pressure with a steady hand, allowing just enough air into the milk to create a velvety, foamy texture.

The great news? With enough practice, anyone can learn to create latte art.

So, how can you start at home? Begin with the basics: practice holding your cup, pouring milk from a pitcher, and maneuvering your hands to form an image. Having the proper equipment, like a milk steamer and espresso machine, certainly helps, but it’s not essential. A French press or electric whisk can froth milk, and a Moka pot works well for making espresso.

Success comes down to trial and error—developing muscle memory is crucial for creating consistent designs.

Since beginner latte artists might not

always have fresh espresso and milk on hand, some baristas suggest using leftover coffee grounds as a substitute for espresso and water mixed with a squeeze of dish soap to emulate milk for practice.

Making latte art is a journey, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have fun along the way. Sure, you might not create Starry Night on your first try, but don’t be afraid to experiment. And never underestimate the power of online tutorials!

If you’re inspired to pursue this artistic endeavour, give it a try. Remember, it takes time, practice, and patience—but the results can bring immense joy. In the meantime, grab your favourite hot drink and enjoy! And if it happens to have a fabulous design on top, that’s just one more reason to smile.

Erika Ravnsborg is an Alberta freelance writer/ blogger/adventurer/explorer. Her blog, “This Magical World”, (magicalstoriestoshare.com) features her enchanted tales of travel, food, shopping, and culture.

Interested in Learning More?

You don’t have to be pursuing the art of coffee as a profession to learn more about making coffee beverages or making them look great at the same time. Dates do come and go regularly, and in-person classes can range from shorter, more introductory offerings to closer to half day sessions.

Classes in Edmonton

Ace Coffee Roasters have several regular classes to choose from, including milk steaming and latte art at several locations in the Edmonton area. $180 acecoffeeroasters.com

Classes in Calgary

The Canadian Barista Institute offers in-person classes in person for barista training. $279 canadianbaristainstitute.com Phil & Sebastian Coffee Roasters offer several regular classes including Brewing at Home and Introduction to Latte Art & Steaming.

About $100 philsebastian.com

Feeling bookish?

Coffee Art, by Dhan Tamang, is a wonderful resource running the gamut from the easy to esoteric, including stencils with plenty of attention devoted to getting started. Maybe it’s time to start a little morning hobby? Cassel $17

Offally Delicious: This legendary Scottish dish “is truly delightful”

Y

ou’d be forgiven if you thought haggis sounds, well, unappetizing.

Scotland’s national dish is made of sheep offal (the heart, organ meat etc.) chopped finely with onion, oatmeal, spices, stock and suet, the hard white fat found around an animal’s kidneys. The mixture is then stuffed into a sheep’s stomach and steamed or boiled.

Despite its lumpy oval shape, a sort of squished football, it’s technically a type of sausage. Or is it a pudding? It depends who you ask.

However you choose to classify it, fans say it tastes better than it sounds.

“It’s meaty, it’s hearty and it has a deep umami to it,” says long-time haggis aficionado Don McSwiney. “A good haggis is a bit peppery, a little spicy. It’s truly delightful.”

And it’s the star of the menu at Robbie

30 Culinaire | January/February 2025

BY SHELLEY BOETTCHER

Burns celebrations across the province in January and early February.

Burns was a Scottish poet who lived in the 1700s and is now celebrated with special dinners around the world on January 25 — the anniversary of his birthday — each year. (The celebrations start a week or two beforehand and often go into February.) One of his most famous poems is Address to a Haggis; his tribute to the “great chieftain o’ the puddin-race” is the reason why haggis is served at every true Robbie Burns dinner, where the poem is typically read aloud to great fanfare. And bagpipes.

For many years as a child, McSwiney lived in Stonehaven, a small town north of Aberdeen in Scotland. Haggis was a staple on the menu at friends’ homes throughout the year, not just in January.

“Haggis is an ordinary working-class

delicious dish, like meatloaf. It’s one of those things I grew up eating,” says McSwiney, a member of the Calgary band, The Dino Martinis. “I never really worried about what it was made of. I just ate it.”

He has fond memories of buying battered and deep-fried haggis served with fries (“chips,” as the Brits would say), at the local fish and chip shops in Scotland. And when he married, he introduced his wife and children to the joys of haggis, too. (His son took the photos for the story.) And now, every year for the past couple of decades, he and his family throw a Robbie Burns celebration for friends and family. “The traditional Scottish way to serve it is with ‘neeps and tatties,’ turnips and potatoes,” he says. “Sometimes at the fancy Burns dinners in Calgary, you’ll

Try haggis at a Robbie Burns dinner There are so many Robbie Burns tributes across the province, we can’t begin to list them all. Many wine shops also host events, although they may not serve haggis; ask at your favourite store.

- The Pipes and Drums of the Edmonton Police Service dinner, edmontonpolice.ca, January 18 - Edmonton Scottish Society dinner, February 1 edmontonscottishsociety.org - Calgary Burns Club dinner, calgaryburnsclub.com, January 24 - St. Andrew-Caledonian Society Robbie Burns Night, February 1 standrewcaledonian.ca

be served things like Cornish game hens and salmon, and they treat haggis like it’s this daring side dish, like a plate of deep fried crickets. “But for the Scots, the haggis is the star of the show.”

Niall Towey is the owner and operator of MacTowey Artisan Butcher in Calgary.

From Ireland, he moved to Canada in 2018. “I’m not Scottish, but I’m from pretty close,” he says with a laugh.

While there is, of course, a big demand for haggis around Robbie Burns Day, he makes 1,000 pounds or more of the stuff throughout the year. He can even make a vegetarian haggis; just order in advance, he says.

There are so many ways to enjoy haggis, he says, adding that he’s trying to convince a local pizza chef to make a haggis pizza. “If you put it in a perogy, it’s like a little cloud of happiness,” he says. “Or put a sprinkle of it in stew — haggis stew. It’s like a dumpling.”

McSwiney doesn’t put it in stew or on pizza. Nor does he make his own haggis from scratch. “It’s best to buy from someone who knows what they’re doing,” he says, pointing out the effort involved in chopping up all those bits of offal — not to mention fussing to fill the sheep’s stomach. “That’s not something I’m going to do any time soon,” he says.

Hunting for haggis

He does, however, keep a couple on hand in the freezer, for a handy, hearty, comforting meal on a chilly winter’s night. “I steam it for an hour. When you see the ‘golden dew’ coming from the pores of the haggis, as Burns would say, then you know it’s ready,” he says.

And foodies may panic at the thought, but McSwiney has even had haggis in a can occasionally. “It’s not that bad,” he says with a laugh.

“If you’re desperate for haggis, it’s actually pretty good. “For me, haggis recalls memories of home. And honestly, I just like it because it’s delicious.”

Shelley is an award-winning Calgary-based writer and editor whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. She currently splits her time between Calgary and Italy. Visit drinkwithme.com for her food, wine and spirits exploits

You don’t have to wait until Robbie Burns Day to try haggis. Nor do you need to make your own.

- The Bothy Wine & Whisky Bar, Edmonton, has haggis on the menu year-round for your dining pleasure, thebothy.ca - The British Banger Company, Okotoks, makes haggis in two traditional forms: the regular “bung” and in a roll, so you can simply slice and eat, britishbangercompany.ca - MacTowey Artisan Butcher, Calgary, makes haggis year-round; order in advance to guarantee availability, 403-702-2434, mactowey.com - Bon Ton Meat Market, Calgary is where Don McSwiney buys his haggis; it’s consistent, he says, and it’s available year-round, bontonmeatmarket.com

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 31

Recognizing German Beer Styles

A

S ONE OF THE OLDEST AND largest brewing countries in the world, you would think there would be a plethora of German beers on Alberta liquor store shelves, or craft breweries copying German beer styles in their taprooms. Alas, neither is true.

Even as the leading beer producer in Europe, with over 1,300 breweries and the originator of dozens of unique beer styles, Germany doesn’t seem to get the same recognition as say, Belgium and the UK. In Liquor Connect, only 130 items are listed from Germany, about half as many as are from Belgium, a country 1/7 the size of Germany.

Many of its over 7,500 different brands are brewed by larger breweries. While

32 Culinaire | January/February 2025

BY DAVID NUTTALL

they have created a vast array of beer styles which have become staples all over the globe, Germany is mainly known for its lagers and wheat ales, predominantly because, for half a millennium beginning in 1516, the Reinheitsgebot restricted brewing. During this time, many local styles disappeared, and only recently have German brewers begun producing them again. While not many originals make it to our market, some craft brewers have recreated these styles.

Weizen/Weissbier

Once the most popular style in Germany, especially in the south, until lager took the crown in the late 1800s. It has regained some of its glory in the past 60 or so years,

and has become a favourite with craft brewers who started by only producing ales.

The historical weizen style harkens back to ancient Bavarian practices of using wheat to brew ales. Regulations now dictate true weizens must have at least 50 percent of the grain bill consist of malted wheat. The rest is usually pilsner malt, and results in a straw to pale gold colour. The combination of the high protein content in the wheat and special weizen yeast produces a cloudy, medium bodied beer with a large, fluffy head, usually served in a tall weizen glass, which allows extra room for the high carbonation.

The aroma and flavour are full of bananas, cloves, and other fruity esters, with almost no hop presence.

The Bock Family

Bock is not really a style but a series of beers. First appearing in the town of Einbeck in the 14th century as a strong lager, it made its way to Bavaria, where the pronunciation of its hometown was “ein bock”, which translates to billy goat, hence the presence of that animal on many bock beer labels. It has become almost a code word for a stronger than average beer, but remains a malt forward beer in whatever style it is.

There are four main types of bock: the Helles/Maibock, Doppelbock, Eisbock and Weizenbock. The helles is the lightest in colour and is brewed to around 7-8 percent ABV, often released for spring festivals, with the doppelbock first being brewed by monks as a rust coloured or dark brown lager with an ABV that can be as high as 12 percent. Eisbock is very rare, as it involves freezing the beer and removing some of the ice, leaving behind a very strong beer that comes in at 12-14 percent ABV. Weizenbock is brewed with top-fermenting yeast and is a higher alcohol adaptation of weiss bier. What is consistent among this group is the lack of noticeable bitterness due to the malt

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary.

Follow @abfbrewed.

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With one notable exception, when most craft breweries produce these beers, it is usually only as a limited run.

Big Rock Brewery has had Grasshopper (their kristalweizen) as a core beer almost from their beginning, and hefeweizens have become a trendy craft style. Yet Alberta does have one brewery that produces German style beers almost exclusively, and that is Fahr Brewery of Diamond Valley.

With German born founder and brewer Jochen Fahr at the helm, they stay as close to traditional German brewing as possible. Look for their Hefe, Pils, and all their other beers in cans or on tap throughout Alberta.

This piece only scratches the surface of German beer styles. Look for the imported brands in liquor stores and some restaurants, and give local craft brewers’ interpretations a go whenever you can find their releases.

Albe r

This is one of the most popular beer styles in the world. While German in inspiration, it has truly become a global phenomenon. First brewed in the mid1800s, as German brewers emigrated in the 19th century and created beer empires in the United States, China, Japan, Latin America, Africa, and elsewhere, this became the standard bearer of nearly every Big Brewery worldwide.

It is the more premium rendition of the Standard American Lager and slightly less bitter than the German Pils/Pilsner.

It is generally made with either two-row or six-row barley malt, a small amount of noble hops, and clean lager yeast. It may contain rice, corn, or other adjuncts in differing quantities, although the German

Beck's Lager, CSPC 322362, $4 500 mL can

e

International Pale Lager

Ayinger Weizen-Bock, CSPC 740887 $7 - 500 mL bottle DAB Maibock, CSPC 756776, $4 500 mL can Ayinger Celebrator Doppelbock, CSPC 721429 $21 - 4 pk. bottles Schneider Aventinus Eisbock, CSPC 834158, $9 - 330 mL bottle

in

Erdinger Weissbier Wheat Beer, CSPC 402230, $6 - 500 mL bottle Weihenstephaner Dunkel, CSPC 125435, $7 - 500 mL bottle

dominance, giving them a sweetness that you won’t find in most German beers.

originals tend to stay adjunct free. With very little malt or hop aroma, the result is a simple, light bodied, easy drinking beer.

It is usually pale straw in colour, with only a touch of bitterness, and is usually around 5 percent ABV.

Albe r

There are different versions of this beer; the Hefeweizen (with the yeast left suspended in the beer), and Kristalweizen, where it has been filtered out for clarity, although this style lacks the character of the hefes. The dark (dunkel) brown style includes the addition of Munich or Vienna malt for colour, but results in a less pronounced banana/clove aroma and flavour. Still, with very little hop presence on the nose or palate, it does however have a rich, malty, almost light milk chocolate flavour.

aire M a g a

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MAKING THE CASE

Out With The Old and In With The New

I

By TOM FIRTH

I’ve never quite liked that phrase, but I do deeply enjoy revisiting old favourites and reminiscing about the memories they evoke. At the same time, I love trying new wines and putting them into context, comparing them to other examples, and fitting them into a changing world.

So, with the early days of 2025 upon us, I wanted to share some recommended bottles from British Columbia, the first wine region I ever visited about 30 years ago, but also some other old favourites I’ve long enjoyed. I’ve included a few sparkling wines too – some excellent, well priced prosecco for perhaps a nice romantic evening in mid-February. Last, but not least, there are a pair of bottles from what may be an emerging wine region – India. I hope you get a chance to enjoy a few of these.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Hillside Estate 2020 Howe Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Naramata Bench, British Columbia

Limited to fewer than 200 cases, this is a wonderful vineyard for a finely crafted cabernet sauvignon. Wildly intense with dark cherry fruits, hints of smoke, cedar, capsicum, and a deeply buried lilac aroma.

Serious cabernet for certain, with rather hefty tannins now, but all the elements are here for short to medium term aging.

Stunning wine, and if enjoying soonish, try decanting and pairing with a prime rib, roast beef, or even great steaks.

Best to contact the winery directly.

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

34 Culinaire | January/February 2025

Burrowing Owl 2022 Chardonnay Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Oh my! Another “knock it out of the park” vintage of Burrowing Owl’s chardonnay. Full bodied, but not too oaky with slightly toasted nuttiness and what really sets it apart – some incredible fruit. Slightly tropical on one sip and at other times more towards pear and yellow apples. Interesting, dynamic, and delicious too. A pleasure to drink.

CSPC 1072531 $45-48

Hester Creek 2023 Merlot, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Oh – that’s the ticket! A beautiful, almost tart expression of merlot with bright fruit scents, a little tar, and a little tea leaf too. In the mouth, an easy going, rather approachable merlot with good purity of fruit, mild vanilla and cocoa qualities, and a slightly jammy finish. Perfectly enjoyable on its own, but a recommended pairing might be burgers, Bolognese type sauces, or beef from the smoker.

CSPC 467324 $27-30

Burrowing Owl 2022 Cabernet Franc Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

My birthday arrived early when this bottle showed up at my door. Being a big fan of cabernet franc – but also the love I have for Burrowing Owl. Crushed raspberry and cherry fruits with a touch of cocoa powder, resin, and forest scent move into a seriously good flavour expression with tight tannins and a fine progression from first sip to graceful finish. A touch young to be drinking now, but it’s calling to mind a nice brisket for the weekend.

CSPC 1076601 $45-48

Masi Modello NV Brut Prosecco Veneto, Italy

Fiol NV Extra Dry Prosecco Veneto, Italy

Joseph Drouhin 2021 Macon-Villages Burgundy, France

Hillside 2023 Estate Muscat Ottonel Naramata Bench, British Columbia

Wild Goose 2023 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Gerard Bertrand An 825 2021 Crémant de Limoux, Limoux, France

Sula NV Sparkling Shiraz, Nashik, India

Hester Creek 2021 “The Judge”, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Masi is at the pinnacle of Italian producers we see on our shores – and for good reason – their wines are always great! Their prosecco is vibrant and alive with beautiful bubbles but a crisp, green apple character with a jaunty juiciness about it too, making for an exceptional quaffer that is perfectly at home on a weeknight or quiet weekend too.

CSPC 803847 $18-22

One of several favourites from Hillside, I love the uniqueness and deliciousness of their muscat ottonel. A highly uncommon variety, it’s aromatic, sometimes “grape-y” – summery and tropical. Richly floral on the nose with tropical fruits in abundance. On the palate, off-dry, but lively and bright with all those promised tropical fruits and freshness. Easy to enjoy with Asian style cuisine or a salty snack. $26 Winery

Sula NV Sparkling Tropicale Rosé Nashik, India

A blend of chenin blanc with riesling and a smidge of syrah, it wasn’t readily apparent if the winemaking was the traditional method, but that may not be important to too many people. Rather peachy and rather tropical on the nose, there is also a fine scent of honey and green apple. Only slightly coloured with a faint coppery tone, there is some sweetness on the palate and fine fruity notes. Very different, but a fine quaffer for those that like off-dry sparklers.

CSPC 103807 $18-21

An extra dry prosecco, which means it's slightly sweeter than most, or brut style examples. But this sweetness here adds a little richness and a bit more tropical fruits rather than sugary notes. Fruits evoke grapefruit, pear and peach with a bit of lemon too, but on the palate, well balanced with consistent flavours. Very nice, very enjoyable, and rather tasty.

CSPC 812819 $19-22

Wild Goose has a deservedly high reputation for a number of its wines, but it’s the riesling that has my vote for their best. Lean and a little racy on the nose with apple and lime fruit and limestone mineral tones. On the palate the balance is perfectly dialed in between the very light sweetness, juicy style stone fruits, and a zesty, acidic finish. Easy to match with saltier dishes or even Pacific-fusion style menus.

CSPC 414730 $27-30

Sparkling shiraz started hitting our shores around 2000, and at the time they were primarily from Australia (go figure) but we eventually saw other sparkling red wines from a number of places and renewed interest in lambrusco, a lightly sparkling red from Italy. Here, from India? Why not? A deep, chocolatey, slightly smoky character supports chewy red fruits and a bit of tannin too. Those flavours, and a slightly saline finish might make this a fine match with dessert, dark chocolate, or blue cheese.

CSPC 103808 $18-21

Loving – absolutely loving – the restraint in this lovely chardonnay from France. Limes, apricots, peaches, but also a clean floral scent to go with straw and toasted hazelnuts.

It’s in the mouth that it all comes together with a little bit of creaminess on the palate and more of that nutty, bready characters.

Exceptionally well made at a very good price too, this is a treat to have close at hand.

CSPC 24976 $28-32

Still made in the traditional way, the sparkling wines of France that aren’t from Champagne bear the name “crémant” and offer tremendous value at the same time.

This one from Gerard Bertrand is centred around chardonnay with chenin blanc and pinot noir, and has a marvelous nose.

Mildly honey and honeysuckle floral tones with crisp apple and gentle leesy tones.

Fresh and clean on the palate too, this is a gem with or without food.

CSPC 47217 $29-33

The Judge – Hester Creek’s “big dog” has been around for a long time, and typically very hard to find unless you are at the winery.

But now you can order it direct! A Bordeaux style blend centred around merlot, this vintage was under the influence of some significantly hotter conditions than usual, yielding smaller grapes, but more intensity.

A big, cellar-worthy bottle (or decant) with intense black fruits, plenty of savoury and earthy notes, and some real layers of complexity – if you are willing to wait.

CSPC 781691 $68-72 January/February 2025 | Culinaire 35

e tce te r a . . .

My Bread – the Revolutionary No-Work, No-Knead Method

Hand up anyone who has tried their hand at the ‘no-knead’ bread recipe? Ah, most of the province! The creator of the most appropriated recipe of the digital age, Jim Lahey, has released his 15th anniversary revised and updated edition of My Bread, with new recipes too. His story of how it all came about is a fascinating read, and his ‘Specialties of the House’ and pizza recipes are must-tries. He’s included recipes for fillings too in ‘The Art of The Sandwich’ and ‘Panini’ chapters, and there’s a whole chapter devoted to ‘Stale Bread’! Perfect for both novice and experienced bakers. Norton $47 Café William Coffee

In our constant search to find new ways to experience a better early morning, we gleefully had the chance to taste and explore a few coffees (well – five of them – we work hard at this). These fair trade Columbian coffees are sustainable with some lofty goals to be the MOST sustainable out there, in part by coming all the way to Canada via the largest modern sail-powered cargo ship!

Our preferences were for the medium roast “Sustain” and the “Impact” dark roast – but follow your heart and preferences too. About $16, widely available at Safeway, Sobeys, Costco and more.

Boursin Dips

Two Quebec companies, Fontaine Santé and Boursin have joined forces to bring out a new range of dips and spreads, and it’s a great collaboration. Imagine Boursin’s flavours of garlic and herbs added to hummus, tzatziki, or artichoke dip, and they’re all kicked up several notches! We love that it changes the texture of the dips too, so that tzatziki, which might normally be quite thin and runny, becomes thicker and creamier (and very much more flavourful!) when combined with Boursin. 1 + 1 = 3 in this case! 227 g, $6-7

Compost Genie

Anyone who’s had to live with or care for a baby these days is likely familiar with the incredible Diaper Genie, which can be a real lifesaver (and nose saver too!) around the home. So it makes perfect sense to see the Compost Genie for the kitchen. With compostable bags (for municipal compost facilities) and all the convenience and odour control one could ask for, this is well made and well suited for families, mixed households or even crowded homes, to help keep on top of your kitchen waste. About $100 (refills widely available online for about $15 for 40 bags).

30 Breads to Bake *Before You Die* Nuts for Cheese Creamy Cashew Dips

London Ontario’s artisanal, vegan cheesemakers, Nuts for Cheese, are celebrating their 10th anniversary this year with a brand-new range of creamy cashew dips. Available in three superdelicious varieties: Dill Pickle, Artichoke and Jalapeño, and Roasted Red Pepper, as their name says, these full flavoured dips are really creamy and made from 100 percent organic cashews.

They’re also full of live probiotics from the fermentation, but you won’t find any dairy, soy, gluten, or oil here! At Sobeys locations, 210 g $10.

36 Culinaire | January/February 2025

Sure, a lot of us might have gotten on the bread train during the pandemic, but for those that didn’t or perhaps even want a little wholesome hobby to enjoy at home, this might be right up your alley. With only 30 recipes, this is entirely possible to work your way through without being overwhelmed, but we’d also assure you that the recipes are well-curated, well written with detailed steps, and more than enough options for bread lovers of the world.

C’mon, live a little! Ulysses Press $34

Fody Foods Pasta Sauces and Salsas

As garlic and onion lovers, we thought there was no way a sauce could be this delicious without our fragrant friends.

But boy, were we mistaken! We tried Fody Foods' Marinara and Tomato Basil sauces as well as their salsas, and not only did they leave us feeling good afterwards, but they were also packed with flavour and had our mouths watering. We would suggest trying these sauces for their real ingredients, not only if you have stomach issues but also if you appreciate rich and satisfying sauces and salsa. Sauces $10 547 mL, salsas $8 - 450 mL.

Grape@Riedel Glassware

These days, any Champagne winemaker or producer of sparkling wine will tell you that it’s ‘out with the flutes’ and ‘in with white wine glasses’ for sparkling wine.

They want you to see the bubbles and smell the aromas, which means a wide, flat-bottomed glass tapered at the top to trap all the lovely fruity, yeasty, and citrus notes. Those clever people at Riedel have brought out a new range of clear crystal glasses in three sizes, and with Valentine’s Day looming, we thought you should know of the new white wine/champagne/spritz drinks glasses! Around $55 for two glasses, riedel.com/en-ca

Our Place Cookware

‘Our Place’ has everything you need at home: cookware, bakeware, tableware, kitchen tools, and appliances, and it’s our latest discovery! We put their ‘Perfect Pots’ through their paces, and cooked with the Perfect Pot (a 5.2 L pot) and the Mini Perfect Pot (2.4 L pot) both of which boil, bake, fry, roast, braise, strain, and serve.

They’re both super non-stick with their toxin-free ceramic coating, and oven-safe to 450º F (so we can bake our no-knead bead in them!), and beautifully designed with a built-in strainer, and a lovely choice of colours to match your kitchen décor. Check them out at fromourplace.ca

Enjoy a taste of Tuscany from the South Okanagan.

Find us at your favourite Alberta liquor store.

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OFFICIAL SUPPORTER

January/February 2025 | Culinaire 37

O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with Bill Bonar

B

ill Bonar is a true Calgarian, born and raised in the city.

Although he tried moving away twice, it never stuck — he always found himself back in his hometown. “My first apartment when I was born was about two blocks away from where I live now — I walk by it on the dog walk every day,” says Bonar.

While Bonar always imagined himself pursuing a career in the arts, the idea of opening a bar was always in the back of his mind. “My friends and I always talked about what it would be like if we opened a bar. Well, what our bar would be like.

But we were in high school, so we weren’t even going to bars yet. Still, we’d talk about what it would be like if we opened one. You know, we’d have a coffee shop out front and all-ages punk rock shows in the back — the stuff I loved. It’s weirdly something I always talked about, even though I didn’t think it was what I’d end up doing,” laughs Bonar.

38 Culinaire | January/February 2025

One of the times Bonar tried to move away from Calgary was to Winnipeg, where his girlfriend had gotten a job.

He left his position as a bartender at Vintage Chophouse, packed up, and assumed he’d have no trouble finding work in Winnipeg. “I didn’t think about that in January in Calgary, where I know people, no one’s really hiring. Never mind January in Winnipeg, where I don’t know anyone. So no one is hiring at all,” Bonar recalls.

After trying and failing to find a job, Bonar admitted defeat and decided to move back to Calgary. “I basically couldn’t find work out there. Same story — I’m trying to tell people, ‘Just Google Vintage Chophouse. Google this place.

It’s legit. I’ve got some legit stuff on my resume.’ But no luck,” says Bonar. When he returned to Calgary, however, he found a job within two to three days.

Fast forward to today, and Bonar’s bar, Rain Dog Bar, is his pride and joy.

BY QUINN CURTIS AND LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM He can’t imagine doing anything else.

“I’m 48 now. I can’t imagine what else I would do. It’s basically all I’ve ever done. I just bounced around, moved up through all aspects of kitchen jobs until I moved out front and did everything I could in managing and serving,” he says.

Bonar has always been the go-to beer guy. Even when working at wine bars, he developed beer lists customers sought out. “People would come to the wine bar, check out my beer list, and ask what great beers I had stashed away.

That inspired the idea behind Rain Dog Bar,” Bonar says. “I wanted to flip that concept on its head at Rain Dog. I’m the beer guy, so I’ve got great beer, but I also have a sneaky good wine list. You come in, and there’s this wine list you wouldn’t expect to find — but it’s still a beer place. Now, I get to run a place with wine bar-level attention to food, detail, and service, but it’s beer-focused.

That’s what I love.”

As for the one special bottle Bonar has been saving? Unsurprisingly, it’s not a bottle of wine, but a beer. “I decided to go with a beer because it’s kind of my thing. I was the beer guy in wine restaurants and in that world, and I’m still the beer guy in the fine dining scene. So it makes more sense for me to choose a beer over a wine,” he says.

The beer he’s chosen is Anchor Brewing Christmas Ale. Anchor Brewing, based in San Francisco, was one of the first-ever craft breweries.

“Fritz Maytag, the heir to the Maytag fortune, fell in love with Anchor Steam Beer and bought the company in ’76, saving them from closing. That was seen as the first step in the American craft beer revolution. That’s the beer I credit with making me fall in love with beer and moving from wine into beer,” says Bonar.

Sadly, Anchor Brewing has since closed, but Bonar plans to drink his Christmas Ale sometime this year after aging it for nine years — his personal limit for beer aging.

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