Culinaire #10.6 (November 2021)

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S N OV E M B E R 2 02 1

Our Holiday

GIFT D GUIDE

D

for your Food and Drink-Loving Family and Friends!

Exploring Indian Cuisine | Chilly Day Spirits | Rice Recipes

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contents

Volume 10 / No. 6 / November 2021

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

8

Book Review

9

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

Vegetables: A Love Story

by Renée Kohlman

Fanning the Embers in November

14

28

38 Making The Case The Spice of Life

40 Etcetera

What’s new?

42 Open That Bottle

With Nathalie Gosselin of Vine Styles

42

25 12 14

ON THE COVER 18 Indian dishes are high on our list as the weather cools. Many thanks to Saffron Street, in First Street Market, for their beautiful Bhel Puri dish, and to photographer Dong Kim for capturing it perfectly!

November Spirits

As the weather cools…

by Tom Firth and Linda Garson

Born in Alberta

Many of Alberta’s favourite chain restaurants started locally

by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Impressions of India

Cuisine as vast as the land

by Karen Anderson

25 Stock Your Pantry with Rice … for all occasions

by Natalie Findlay

28 Culinaire Holiday Gift Guide Our all-Canadian gift ideas for your food and drink-loving family and friends

34 Step By Step

Eggplant and Shrimp Coconut Curry

by Renée Kohlman

36 High Alcohol Beers and Aging Explore a whole new dimension of beers

by David Nuttall

November 2021 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

November?

H

ow did it get to be November already? Time is going so quickly, is it a sign of ageing or are we just having too much fun?

We have been having fun though - in the interest of research - to not only bring you news of some fantastic new restaurant openings (we couldn’t fit them all in this issue, so more to come in December!), as well as our Holiday Gift Guide. We hope you enjoy these suggestions as much as we enjoyed trialling them to bring you only the best!

We were recently asked about the environmental impact of our choice to have Culinaire printed as a glossy publication with a UV coating. To explain, the UV coating on the cover is environmentally friendly, and necessary to stop the scratches that occur when the magazines are stacked and delivered.

The benefits of UV coatings are many: • They’re not petroleum-based like many other varnishes and do not release VOCs into the air like solvent-based coatings.

• The coating is easily decomposed by hydrolysis and oxidation, and is completely recyclable.

• It doesn’t pose any health risks, as it’s not carcinogenic or hazardous.

• And UV coatings use less energy, as they’re cured by UV light rather than heat.

Many thanks to Al V. for raising this important issue and for his response: “Thank you very much for all your information. I see you have put a lot of thought into your publications and it is appreciated. I am particularly resentful when it is unsolicited. That means it goes

to every subscriber as well and this is what gets my hackles up. Your magazine was picked up because we wanted it and that is a big difference. Thanks.”

We do encourage you to to recycle your paper copies. and also to visit our website, culinairemagazine.ca, for additional content and recipes.

Cheers

Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief

Correction: Our apologies, in our October issue, we mistakenly stated that the Jungle Farm was established in 1867 by the Quartz Family when it should have said that the Quantz Family established the farm in 1897.

For show-stopping platters and gifts that never get regifted.

We’ve got you covered this holiday season.

Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.

italiancentre.ca

EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca

Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Karen Anderson Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Dong Kim Renée Kohlman, David Nuttall Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Karen Anderson

Karen founded the award-winning Alberta Food Tours, Inc. in 2006 and innovated the Alberta Food Finder game and Alberta Cares Packages in 2020. She’s garnered IPPY, Taste Canada, and World Gourmand Cookbook Awards for her cookbook and travel writing. Daily meditation keeps her grounded.

Yoga, hiking and cooking keep her joyful.

Before publishing A Spicy Touch in 2015, she spent nine years recipe testing and teaching Indian cooking at the side of her beloved mentor, the late Noorban Nimji.

Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Busy freelance writer and broadcaster, Elizabeth writes about food, travel, and many other topics. In addition to contributing to Culinaire, national and international publications, she is a Globe and Mail bestselling cookbook author and a regular contributor to CBC Radio and the Calgary Herald. A lover of food, travel, music, and community, when Elizabeth isn't out searching for something delicious she’s likely to be found curled up with a good book.

LIBERTÀ

AWARD WINNING! JAMES SUCKLING: 2010-91/100 2011-91/100 2012-90/100 2013-92/100 2014-90/100 2015-92/100 2016-93/100 2017-92/100 2018- 92 /100

DECANTER:

2014 91 points

2021 ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS:

Best In Class Italian Red Wine Blend.

Natalie Findlay

After a brief period with an Easy Bake Oven, Natalie’s mom allowed her to use the big girl’s oven and set her on the course for a life filled with delicious outcomes. Since graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, Natalie has worked in restaurants, hotels, bakeries, and her own business. Currently, Natalie is a freelance writer, recipe developer, and photographer, and is loving every minute of it.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta.

All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

TASTING NOTES Very deep, it tells of the excellent quality of the grapes.

Balsamic, typical of the main grape variety in the blend.

Round, pervasive, with sweet tannins, perfectly balanced.

Complex, long, yet not overpowering.

November 2021 | Culinaire 5

SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S Congratulations to The Establishment Brewing Company, named Brewery of the Year at the 2021 Canadian Brewing Awards! This is the second year in a row a Calgary brewery has won the title - the 2020 award went to Common Crown Brewing Company!

Congrats too to Airdrie’s Sorso Lounge, who beat out more than 255 restaurants across the country to win Best Caesar in Canada - and then donated their $25,000 award to the community to thank them for their support during COVID. The recipe includes pineapple rum, black fermented garlic, mango nectar, and… bone marrow ice cubes!

Until November 28, 19 Banff restaurants are cooking up special fixed price menus and dishes showcasing local ingredients for Banff National Park’s Taste for Adventure. If you’re dining, you could also win one of four weekly prize packages of accommodation, lift tickets with rental equipment, helicopter tours, and dog sledding too! Check out banfflakelouise.com/tasteforadventure.

There’s no stopping Tuk Tuk Thai – building on the most popular items from Thai Sa-on’s menu, they’ve now opened their ninth location in Calgary’s Shawnessy neighbourhood at 275 Shawville Boulevard SE! The old Melrose/Royale space on Calgary’s 17 Avenue SW is now home to Porch, a bright, airy, and retro space (retro music too, we knew all the words!). Fort Architecture have done a terrific job, blurring indoor and outdoor dining, with swings at the bar and by the fireplace. The huge tree from Wurst has found a new home here too! Chef Dylan Sexton’s sharing menu is pure comfort food – elevated. We tried a lot of dishes and loved them – that chicken liver paté and ling cod? Wow! With Jimmy Nguyen’s cocktails and some of the friendliest service around, Porch is a new fave to add to our list! Seven days 11 am-late.

Connie and John’s Pizza have expanded, and now their 16” round NY 6 Culinaire | November 2021

and 14x10” Detroit-inspired pizzas are available at Blush Lane Marda Loop!

There’s a rotation of hot slices, but best order in advance for full pies, half pies and faves, as they take 20 minutes. These pizzas travel well, so you can also order with SkipTheDishes and DoorDash.

Seven days until 9 pm.

Edmonton has a new barbecue restaurant. The city’s first building with plumbing and hot-and-cold running water, 112-year-old Transit Hotel, at 12720 Fort Road, has transformed into Transit Smokehouse & BBQ, keeping much of the history as a throwback to the old west. All your favourite smoked meats and sides are here, with smoked ice cream too, and we can expect live music at weekends. Seven days 11-11.

Calgary’s Kensington Village is home to the new Meatball Project – that means great quality, great value, and great food that you can feel good about,

and that your kids can enjoy with you.

It’s privately owned and local, with all Alberta, sustainable, grass-fed beef, and no fillers or gluten, and plant-based meatballs too - you might be hardpressed to tell the difference! These are filling dishes, all handmade, and all dairy-free - even the amazing latte soft-serve ice cream with donut balls!

There’s no fryer here, only an air fryer, and service is stripped out to allow for such great prices. Watch out for Pizza Project coming soon too! Seven days, lunch and dinner.

Modern Group’s new south Calgary steak and seafood location is open at 10606 Southport Rd SW – and it’s stunning. Modern Steak chic has a vibe all of it’s own: black and white, ultra modern, with lights to admire. Even the washrooms are noteworthy! While starters are mostly the same on each side, and there are weekly features, Steakside has a meaty menu with a few seafood dishes, and Oceanside has a seafood menu with a few meat dishes, and a raw bar for 8 people too. Your table can order from either menu. Our Benchmark Angus filet was impeccably cooked and seasoned, and our king prawn risotto with lobster veloute was delicious – and short rib poutine is on offer…!

There’s a private room for 25, and a semi-private space for 50 people – and two patios, one with a fireplace! Lunch and dinner, closed Mondays.

Well cast.

With funding from Edmonton Community Foundation, the Multicultural Family Resource Society helps new Canadians find their place and purpose in our city. Much like a casting director, Ammar Jouma helps young people who have had their dreams put on hold discover roles to perform on Edmonton’s stage.

Donations to ECF inspire hope, create opportunity and enhance the Edmonton lifestyle. We work with our donors to give, grow and transform. ecfoundation.org plays an important part.

Charity begins at Home.

B O O K R E V I E W BY TO M F I RT H

Vegetables: A Love Story 92 Heartwarming Recipes from the Kitchen of Sweetsugarbean By Renée Kohlman, Touchwood Editions $45

A

WARD WINNING COOKBOOK author (All the Sweet Things), cook, writer, freelancer (and longtime Culinaire contributor), Renée Kohlman has brought out the big guns and the dashing sides with Vegetables: A Love Story.

Here in Alberta, we do like our veggies but it’s often the carnivores that rule the day, and thoughts for the accoutrements like the veggies are pushed to the side.

First thoughts for Vegetables: A Love Story could be best summed up as “Damn! That sounds good!” followed by repeating some variation of that sentiment at least 30-40 times, and then feeling really hungry for some vegetables on my plate.

Laid out by vegetable, it’s easy to find a dish when vegetables are in season or

8 Culinaire | November 2021

fresh from your local farmer’s market, and also when feeding a picky guest or child.

Sections on beets, corn, and green beans, are all welcome, but knowing that parsnips (a family favourite) or asparagus (no thanks in my house!), Brussels sprouts and cabbage are here does make it easier to figure out a meal plan; about 22 different vegetables are given ample opportunity to end up on your plate.

Stand out recipes leading into the fall are ‘Skillet Brussels Sprouts and Gnocchi with Bacon’, which might be served as a side or a main (p.51), Maple Mustard Glazed Carrots (p.81), which checks off all the boxes, and hearty and flavourful, ‘Corn Chowder with Salmon and Dill’ (p.103), to warm up even the coldest soul on a wintery day. Mushroom lovers will enjoy

the ‘Skillet Mushroom Lasagna’ (p.147), and the ‘Mushroom Risotto Cakes’ (p.153). Even the humble pea is elevated with ‘Pasta Shells with Minty Peas and Ricotta’ (p.185).

Dessert (and thankfully no cocktail section!) isn’t really covered, but likely you won’t have room for dessert anyway.

Kohlman has a way with words, and the recipes are well laid out with helpful suggestions; there’s also a sense that sometimes the dish might not come out perfectly the first time, but it will still be delicious and still look great on the plate.

Pretty sure this is a book you’ll come to love in your kitchen.

C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Fanning the Embers in November

W

hen the weather turns cold, nothing is better than slipping into something simmering with spices.

And, when those spices are fused with filling, comforting dishes, it’s nothing

At Canmore’s änkôr, owner and head chef, Danny Beaulieu, marries contemporary Canadian cuisine with knowledge and excitement. From serving in Canadian restaurants to bartending in Japan, Beaulieu soon found the kitchen calling his name.

“The restaurant industry has always been my passion,” he explains. “I made sure to collect as much knowledge as possible by working in different fine dining establishments before finally taking the leap and opening my own.”

He prides himself on sourcing products that most guests won’t encounter anywhere else and taking advantage of one or two ingredients that are currently in season. “We often create dishes that focus on one ingredient, transforming it in a way that will wow our guests.”

Beaulieu’s other source of inspiration is his team at änkôr. “I have a vision of what we are working towards, but the technique and flavours in the dishes are created as a team.” It’s rather fitting then, that

BY KEANE STRAUB

short of satisfying.

This month we asked Alberta chefs for their take on heating things up. From roasted peppers in savoury breads, to hearty stews infused with curry,

to international takes on the humble potato, there’s no shortage of what a little spice, and a lot of love, can do to get your inner furnace flaring as we head into another Alberta winter.

PHOTO BY LINDA GARSON

this Poblano Cornbread recipe is one Beaulieu got from änkôr’s pastry chef and baker, Jo-Annie Deschamp. “It reminds me of every holiday that I shared with friends and family,” says Beaulieu. “It’s comforting and perfect for the cold season coming ahead.”

Poblano Cornbread Makes one 22.5 cm loaf

3 poblano peppers 1¼ cups butter 2½ cups corn (fresh or frozen) ¾ cup (170 mL) cream 3 eggs 1¼ cups pastry flour ¾ cup sugar 1 tsp salt ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ¾ cup cornmeal (fine)

1. Place poblano peppers directly on hot BBQ grill and blister the skin. Transfer to a sealed container and allow to steam and cool before peeling and removing the skins. Dice and peel the seeded poblanos and set aside.

2. Turn your oven on to 375º F and put in a 22.5 cm cast iron pan to heat.

3. Melt butter in a small pot over medium heat. Add corn and cook until golden.

4. Add corn and butter to a blender with the cream and blend until soft and creamy. Add eggs and blend thoroughly.

5. In a large bowl sift together all dry ingredients except for the cornmeal. Then whisk in cornmeal until well mixed.

6. Add wet ingredients and poblanos to dry ingredients and mix to combine.

7. Remove cast iron from oven and grease lightly with butter. Add batter to the pan.

Bake for about 35-40 minutes to an internal temperature of 200º F. 8. Serve with plenty of butter.

November 2021 | Culinaire 9

Chef Nitin Jadhav has honed his culinary skills in hotels of the Taj, Marriott, and Fairmont groups, from India to Jasper. For more than a decade, he’s been the Executive Chef at the Courtyard & Residence Inn by Marriott at the Calgary Airport. It’s an experience he describes as both memorable and flavourful. “I’m enjoying every moment of it,” he adds.

“Happy, satisfied guests influence my cooking,” he continues, saying that there’s no specific cuisine he prefers to cook. Guest cravings help shape Chef Jadhav’s menu, but there’s also underlying inspiration courtesy his mother. “Her food was and still is a topic of discussion in our family,” he says.

“Our friends and family always had a memorable meal at our home, so those memories always inspire me. I like for my guests to have the same memories with my food.”

Vada (potato ball) Pav (bread roll) is a dish that Chef Jadhav says is close to his heart, and resonates his home in Mumbai: “As a kid, I remember devouring this with my brother until we could not move an inch,” he recalls. “It’s a dish that takes me for a walk through my beautiful childhood memories.” Best served on rainy or cold days, Chef Jadhav advises to not rush the process. “Good food takes time and lots of love!”

10 Culinaire | November 2021

PHOTO BY DONG KIM

Vada Pav Serves 2-4

2 medium potatoes 3 Tbs (45 mL) vegetable oil ½ tsp mustard seeds 4 - 5 curry leaves 1 Tbs chopped garlic 1 tsp chopped green chilies ½ tsp chopped fresh ginger ½ tsp turmeric powder 2 tsp salt 25g chopped fresh cilantro

Batter:

2 cups chickpea flour 1 cup (250 mL) cold water ½ tsp red chili powder 1 tsp salt ½ tsp turmeric powder ¼ tsp baking powder Oil for deep-frying 1. Boil potatoes with skin on in salty water until tender. Remove from water

and allow to cool. Peel and smash potatoes, getting rid of any large lumps.

2. Heat oil in a pan, add mustard seeds and curry leaves to temper for a few minutes.

3. Add garlic, green chilies, and ginger.

Sauté for one minute, then add turmeric and smashed potatoes. Continue to sauté over medium heat for a few minutes.

4. Stir in salt and cilantro, then remove mixture from pan and spread on a plate to cool.

5. While this cools, make the batter: in a bowl mix together chickpea flour and water and whisk until there are no lumps.

Add remainder of batter ingredients, whisk together, then set aside.

6. Heat oil in a deep pan to 350º F. 7. Make small balls with potato mixture.

Once oil has heated, dip balls in batter, shaking off excess, and then deep-fry until golden brown. Remove and place on paper towel to drain.

8. Serve hot on your favourite bun with your choice of chutney and toppings.

After working in Hawaii, Spain, London, and France, Calgary-born Chef Lancelot Monteiro came home once again and was the overseeing chef for Cilantro, Bar C, and Urban Butcher. Taking a year off in 2019 after Cilantro closed, he seized the opportunity to move to Banff where he is Chef at The Prow at Buffalo Mountain Lodge.

“I always like to make people happy,” Chef Monteiro explains, “and what better way to explore new foods and different tastes.” His mother is Ukrainian, and exposed him to different styles and flavours of European cooking, while his father is from the Middle East, and introduced him to a world of curries and spices.

He shares a recipe based on his grandmother’s curry lentil soup, one that he enjoyed as a child. “My grandmother would always tell us kids, ‘Eat more ginger and garlic and turmeric! It’s good for your blood!’” Today, he makes this stew for his kids on a cold day, or when they’re under the weather. “The smell of it cooking is one of my wife’s faves.”

Cooking low and slow makes all the difference in this dish, says Chef Monteiro, but more importantly cook with love and good energy. “When people ask why my food tastes great, my answer has always been love and care!”

COURTESY BUFFALO MOUNTAIN LODGE

Lentil and Sweet Potato Stew Serves 6

4 Tbs (60 mL) olive oil, divided 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 Tbs fresh ginger, grated 1 medium yellow onion, diced 1 medium carrot, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 1 large sweet potato, diced (approximately 2 cups) 1 tsp curry powder 1 tsp dried turmeric ½ tsp dry fenugreek 1 bay leaf 2 cups (500 mL) water 1 28 oz can diced tomatoes 1 cup red lentils (soaked in cold water for 15 minutes) 1 bouquet garni (fresh thyme and rosemary) 1 medium zucchini, diced To taste salt and pepper 2 cups kale, chopped 1. Heat 3 Tbs (45 mL) olive oil in medium sized pot and add onion, celery, carrot, ginger and garlic. Cook for 15 minutes on medium-low heat.

2. Meanwhile, toss the sweet potato with 1 tbs (15 mL) olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast at 400º F for 10-15 minutes or until starting to brown.

Set aside and let cool.

3. Add curry powder, turmeric, fenugreek and bay leaf to the pot and continue to cook for 15 minutes on low heat, making a curry paste.

4. Once your curry paste is cooked, add water to deglaze the bottom of your pot, making sure there is nothing sticking to it.

5. Turn heat to med-high and add canned tomato, roasted sweet potato, soaked lentils, bouquet garni and diced zucchini.

Bring up to boil and reduce to a low simmer. Let simmer for 35-40 minutes.

6. Check to make sure the lentils are cooked through and check for seasoning (salt and pepper).

7. Remove from heat and add kale. Let stew cool slightly before serving – but it’s always better to enjoy the next day.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.

November 2021 | Culinaire 11

I

November Spirits

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

n typical fashion, Alberta’s autumn is an exercise in preparation. Will it snow today? Will it be 20 degrees later? However you are filling your days, it’s more than likely that the evenings will be on the wintery side, and we’d love to recommend a few bottles to take a little of the chill out of the air.

Proclamation Irish Whiskey, Ireland Celebrating the establishment of Ireland 105 years ago, Proclamation whiskey is one smooth operator. It’s toasty and almost creamy from being tripled-distilled and aged in new American oak. Made in small batches from Irish grain whiskies, it’s matured in bourbon casks and blended with a little sherry-finished malt, which makes for a complex, rounded whisky that’s dangerously easy to sip, with notes of crème brulée and a hint of lemon marmalade.

CSPC +848767 $49-52 The Original Koloa Kaua’i Dark Hawaiian Rum, Hawaii It makes sense that Hawaii’s first sugar plantation, in Koloa Town, on Kaua’i island, should be the home of their first distillery, and Koloa Rum Company is still producing single batch, premium, craft rums. Kaua’i Dark Rum is vanilla forward, fast followed by dark, semi-sweet chocolate both on the nose and on the palate, suggesting all sorts of fun tiki cocktails that include coconut and pineapple juice, but try as a Café Caribbean with whipped cream for an indulgent treat!

CSPC +743400 $55-65 Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey United States Is this proof that there are no new frontiers or hills left to climb? This is indeed a peanut butter whiskey, and one that successfully marries two vastly different things. On one hand you have the rich, umami-laden character of the peanut butter, and the other a fairly rich, but smooth and off-dry whisky. Together, it’s a 35 percent peanut brittle meets whisky story that should be a hit with both the bonfire crowd or the adventurous cocktail crowd.

CSPC +847605 $52-57 12 Culinaire | November 2021

Dad’s Homemade Dutch Rye Vodka Netherlands While we don’t see all that many vodkas made with rye, they can be a welcome change from excessively “neutral” vodkas that dominate our shelves. From Zuidam in the Netherlands, Dad’s showboats with a spicy nose and palate that is distinctively rye-like and still has a mild, creaminess softening any rough edges. Very good, and a solid choice for vodka-forward mixing.

CSPC +838925 Price $60-64 Casey Jones Distillery Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey Small Batch Mmmm… smooth, spicy, sweet corn, smoky, and small batch, this first bourbon from Kentucky distillers, Casey Jones, is lipsmacking with an incredibly long, dark and fruity finish. Just one-year old, it’s already a tempter, drawing you in with caramel and toffee notes and delivering a satisfying unctuousness. Master Distiller Arlon Casey Jones’ once forbidden distilling roots are showing!

CSPC +846825 $72-77 Bira! South Pacific 12 Year Old Aged Rum, Fiji Wow, this is one unique and interesting rum for lovers of fine spirits looking for something a little different, and previously only available abroad. Now we lucky Albertans have the opportunity to get our hands on this limited run of only 1272 bottles of aged Fijian rum! It’s not coloured or chill filtered, only water is added to bring it down to 55 percent ABV. It’s intense, with notes of bitter dark chocolate and spice – think pepper, olives and molasses! For you or that special person…

CSPC +855407 $125-145

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Born in Alberta: Many of Alberta’s favourite chain restaurants and mall kiosks got their start locally

BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

Edo Japan

T

here’s a misconception that eating at a chain or franchise restaurant goes against the concept of “eating local.” Many food enthusiasts believe that supporting small independent restaurants and coffeeshops is a more noble and community-minded choice, and there is an argument to be had there — being able to see the person whose vision is driving a food business first hand gives consumers greater trust and connection to their food and drink.

But shunning larger multi-location restaurants isn’t entirely fair to local businesses either, since franchise locations are more often than not locally

14 Culinaire | November 2021

owned and operated, and even corporateowned businesses employ local chefs and servers. What a lot of Albertans also don’t realize is that many of the most prominent food-related chains that we see on our high streets, in malls, and in suburban retail centres, got their start right here in Alberta.

Calgary and Edmonton in particular have been hotbeds for developing restaurant chains for decades. Boston Pizza got its start in Edmonton in 1964. Earls is another Edmonton baby, sprouting up in 1982, with sister restaurant JOEY first emerging in Calgary, in 1992. Those major players have moved their headquarters to larger

cities (specifically, Vancouver) but the proliferation of major restaurant brands in Alberta has come naturally. They were developed here, they continue to cater to local tastes, and many are owned by those aforementioned local franchisees. While those contemporary restaurant chains may be the most prominent children of Albertan entrepreneurship, so to speak, they’re far from the only ones that have grown from local start-ups into nationally recognized brands.

Every chain business that got its start in Alberta has a different story — unsurprisingly, some started off in the “normal” way - as standalone shops - but their popularity lead to more locations

and an eventual expansion outside of their cities of origin. That was the case for the Good Earth Coffeehouse, which was started in 1991 in Calgary’s Connaught neighbourhood by Nan Eskenazi and Michael Going as a humble place to grab a coffee and a light but wholesome meal.

While it seems impossible to imagine now, at the time the idea of a cool coffee shop that offered well-prepared food was not ubiquitous in Alberta, so Eskenazi and Going expanded to 10 cafes of their own before eventually turning to a franchise model when the brand became more than they wanted to manage themselves.

Now there are almost 50 cafes scattered around Alberta and in provinces like B.C., Saskatchewan, Manitoba, and Quebec, with even more openings (including some in Ontario) scheduled over the course of the next year.

“We saw that it could be a business that people would love in other places and that there wasn’t anything like it at the time. We wanted to get Good Earth Coffeehouses into other communities but were limited in our ability to do that as a two-person owner partnership,” Eskanazi says. “We also realized that one of the most important parts of running a coffeehouse in a community is that customers know the owner. So, we looked at the franchise model as a way to bring personal ownership back into every coffeehouse.”

But not all chain eateries start off as the little boutique business that could. Cinnzeo, a mall staple that draws customers in with the irresistible smell of freshly baked dough and cream cheese frosting, may seem a lot like another American chain. That’s because the original owners were a group of Calgarybased investors who bought the rights to be master franchisers in Canada for the Cinnabon chain of bakeries in the late ‘80s. The group decided that they wanted to start their own business and converted their locations to their own Cinnzeo Bakery Cafe brand a decade later. Now the company how has a presence in Calgary, Edmonton, and Red Deer, as well as B.C. and Ontario, in addition to shops in Mexico, the Middle East, and Mongolia, with plans to expand even further. Four years ago, the company was taken over by new ownership,

but remains based in Calgary, and has entered a new period of growth while also developing new products.

It is an unconventional story with an unconventional growth pattern and pretty much the opposite trajectory to the Good Earth story, but the end result is the same: an Alberta-based company getting something delicious out to as many people in as many places as possible. The location of the head office isn’t the company’s only tie to Alberta: the mix that is sent out to franchisees to become dough is made in Calgary and the coffee served at all the shops is from a local coffee roaster.

“The company is doing all the right things to keep the brand growing and moving across Canada and into other places internationally,” says Cinnzeo CEO Brad Turner. “We use Canadian technology when we can. We’re a Calgary-based company that is a leader in its field. Plus there’s a rich talent pool here that isn’t in oil and gas, but can do retail marketing and other things we can draw on. I don’t think we’re at a disadvantage because we’re here in Alberta at all.”

While some Alberta chain restaurants have succeeded in getting a taste of the West out to other parts of the country and the world, one of the province’s most successful chains, Edo Japan, started as a way to introduce Albertans to Japanese Teppan-style cuisine. Edo was founded at Calgary’s Southcentre Mall in 1979 by Buddhist minister Reverend Susumu Ikuta, and expanded to franchise locations in Edmonton as a means of giving new Canadians an opportunity to own their own businesses.

Reverend Ikuta left the company in 1999, leaving it in the hands of a new CEO who

www.fentimansca.com

initiated a period of rapid growth with the introduction of street side stores (as opposed to just food court kiosks). The company now has well over 100 locations across Canada and recently started selling its signature teriyaki sauce by the bottle.

“Our founder really wanted to be part of building community and nourishing opportunities for people. He really has a vision and a mission to give Canadians, including a lot of recent immigrants, an opportunity to own their own businesses and build a life for themselves and become part of communities across Canada,” says Edo Japan’s current CEO Dave Minnett. “If you look at our franchise partners, so many of them come from different ethnic backgrounds, and they’ve worked so hard to come to Canada and build a better life. Edo has been a part of that.”

These examples are just the beginning when it comes to Alberta chains. In addition to the aforementioned Earls, Joey, and Boston Pizza chains, familiar storefronts like Famoso (founded in Edmonton in 2007), Jugo Juice (1998, Calgary — and its founders have gone on to found 98 Food Co. which has Dirtbelly, Chachi’s, Hula Poke, and Deville Coffee in its portfolio), Wok Box (2004, Edmonton), Moxie’s (1986, Calgary), Joey’s Seafood (1985, Calgary), and OPA! of Greece (1998, Calgary) among many others. It’s not all mall-style food either — OEB, which started as a single holein-the-wall breakfast place in Calgary has already branched out to Edmonton, Saskatoon, Vancouver, and Arizona, and is currently in the process of opening restaurants in Kelowna, Winnipeg, Toronto, and California.

Many of these businesses started in Alberta simply because this is where the founders happened to live and were propelled by that famous Western entrepreneurial spirit, but there are also some advantages of staying in Alberta: the province has a diverse pool of food and beverage professionals, and the cost of living is less than that in Vancouver or Toronto. Alberta doesn’t necessarily have something magical in the water that has ensured the success of so many food-related start-ups, But there’s also no reason why a chain’s head office wouldn’t do as well here as anywhere else.

All of this business success does mean that budding franchise companies may 16 Culinaire | November 2021

Cinnzeo

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her debut cookbook All the Sweet Things was published last year.

Saucy Burger

have their sights set on becoming the next Edo Japan or Jugo Juice — the owners of new businesses like Calgary’s VBurger or Saucy Burger, located just down the street, have said from the get-go that they had franchise expansion in sight, but a successful expansion requires more than a delicious product that appeals to the local market. Brad Turner says that there is plenty of opportunity for growth but advises businesses to take a good look at their model before letting those dreams of expansions take hold.

“There isn’t anything preventing an Alberta company from becoming a

franchise. It depends on how unique their concept is, how well-established they are, and how well they can take all of that and put it into a program for success,” Turner says. “Because that’s really what a franchise is — it’s when you want to be in business for yourself but not by yourself. You don’t want to have to create something by yourself and just hope it works.”

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

Advertising Feature

Alberta’s Gnu-est Distillery 5 Questions with Gnu Craft Spirits Introducing Gnu Craft Spirits Distillery Gnu Craft Spirits recently launched in July 2021. We had the opportunity to chat with two of the company owners, Darren Scott and Dawn Messer to learn more about this ‘gnu’ Calgary, Alberta distillery.

What are your company values and goals?

Dawn: We believe in creating a fun and community-driven company. Our goal is to create spirits and experiences that reconnect us with friends and family as we emerge from this crazy pandemic. Our families have always been involved in our communities and we believe that there is nothing better than gathering together to laugh and catch up with our herd. We use the hashtag #GatherYourHerd.

Tell us more about the name. Gnu? Darren: It’s pronounced like the word ‘new’. Initially, we thought the name was fun, but when we researched the Gnu what we discovered rang true for us as we resurface from the COVID-19 pandemic.

Dawn: The Wildebeest, or Gnu, is a spirit animal that symbolizes the importance of bonds to our friends and family. It also encourages us to strengthen and maintain those relationships.

Can you tell us about The Gnu Normal Gin and what’s coming next?

Darren: Following a traditional London Dry Gin recipe using vapour infusion, the Gnu Normal Gin is the type of spirit that can be a go-to for anyone.

We focused on bringing up the citrus tasting notes, with peel from grapefruits and oranges.

This allows the gin to be appreciated in a nice dry martini, with soda or tonic, or to really amp up your favourite mixed cocktail. The juniper we use has a classic, but not overpowering taste.

We suggest you try using a slice of orange as a garnish to let the flavours fully emerge.

Dawn: We are working on some very interesting new gin recipes that will feature more local Alberta botanicals. We are also very excited to start barrelling different whiskey recipes that will feature world-class Alberta grains.

We need to know about this little truck that is popping up around town.

Darren: That’s Gnorman the Gnumobile. Gnorman is a 1996 Daihatsu Midget, made in Japan. It has a 165 cc engine, a single seat, left-side gear shift, and the most confusing part is the wipers and turn signals are on the opposite side of what we are used to. Everyone loves Gnorman.

How do we learn more about Gnu? Dawn: We always keep our website up to date with information about us, our products, and where to buy.

We are regularly adding liquor stores and restaurants that carry us, so be sure to check back often. Following any of our social media accounts will also keep you up to date on events and information.

Our tasting room in Calgary is currently under construction. We look forward to having a social space for herd gatherings, fun events, music, and just a cool place to relax with friends and great spirits.

We can’t wait to see what this exciting and community-driven ‘gnu’ (I can’t help myself) company will do next. Support your local craft spirit producers and ask for Gnu Craft Spirits at your favourite liquor stores and restaurants.

GnuCraftSpirits.com @GnuCraftSpirits

Impressions of India: CUISINE AS VAST AS THE LAND

BY KAREN ANDERSON

Masala Daba (spice box)

C

urry. This word’s existed since newcomers hit the shores of India in the 1500s. First, the Dutch called the locals’ spicy gravies karee. Later, to the English colonizer’s ear, karee became curry. And, beyond the sauce-based dishes it was meant for, it became their word for describing ALL Indian food.

The greatest living authority on Indian cooking, Madhur Jaffrey, is baffled by how that one word kept calm and curried on. In her Master Class, she says, “India is a vast country. It’s the variety of food (and spices) we have that is what makes Indian food Indian,

18 Culinaire | November 2021

not curry. How can you take ALL that we have and call it curry?”

Curry being synonymous with all Indian cuisine is like calling all Canadian food poutine. Let’s explore!

Geographic and Cultural Influences

Three oceans surround India’s feet, with the snow-capped Himalayas at the head. Desert sands sweep from the the West and rich estuaries fill in the East.

The South is a spicy tropical paradise.

With 18 official languages, and thousands of dialects, India’s 29 states and 7 territories – not to mention a

population of 1.4 billion people, cultures vary dramatically across the country.

Religious customs, the influence of newcomers and the ingredients that grow, explain how regional cuisines have evolved. And when you dine in India, one of the first questions asked is, “Veg or Non-Veg?”

Veg and Non-Veg

A third of people in India are vegetarian. This aligns with people’s adherence to Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist religions and lifestyles.

The 84 percent who are Hindus do not eat beef but most do enjoy dairy

Saffron St

Vegetables, fruits and pulses

A huge variety of eggplants are indigenous. Cauliflower is beloved.

When onion prices soar, there are riots in the streets. The Portuguese brought potatoes, tomatoes and chilies.

Squashes, pumpkins, gourds, and greens, are plentiful.

Kashmir grows apples and stone fruits. More tropical fruits like mangoes, papaya, pineapples, melons, and a great many varieties of bananas, are key fruits grown in the south. All savoury and Seafood sweet preparations of raw ingredients Stuffedspices.

Salmon involve Perhaps the most common savoury preparation is simply referred to as dal. Dal can be made from any pulse (chickpeas, peas, beans or lentils) with regional variations in spicing. products. Yogurt, ghee (clarified butter) and buttermilk are used extensively in cooking, especially in the North.

Coconut milk predominates in the tropical south.

The 12 percent of India’s population who are Muslim do eat beef and other meats except pork. Syrian Christians of Kerala eat beef and pork, and the Goans, with their Portuguese Catholic history, are famous for their Pork Vindaloo (from the Portuguese carne de vinha d'alhos meaning meat in garlic).

People living in coastal regions enjoy fish. Mutton (usually goat, not lamb) and chicken are popular throughout the country. And, that brings us to other staples.

Rice

Many grains - millets, wheat, corn, grow in India. But, rice is the most beloved. Cultivated for over 5,000 years, rice originated here. At one point there were over 2,000 varieties and still a third of all arable land is devoted to it. Basmati, meaning Queen of Fragrance in Sanskrit, from the Dehra Dun, in the foothills of the Himalayas, is the most sought after.

In the backwaters of Kerala, a more affordable short grain red rice has three harvests per year because of the ample water there. While rice may be stored for long periods, cooks travel daily to local fresh air markets for vegetables and fruits.

Spices

Indian cooks are masters of the subtle art of spice blending. Spices are indigenous to the jungles in the south.

They form the foundation for the cuisine throughout the country.

If black pepper from the Malabar Coast of Kerala is the King of Spices, cardamon is the Queen. South India is rich with true (Sri Lankan) cinnamon.

Nutmeg (and mace that lies within the same fruit), allspice (it’s an actual spice not a mixture of all spices), and cloves grow as well. When cooks in South India want curry leaves, they literally find them growing in their backyard.

In the North, Kashmir grows high quality saffron. Kasur in Punjab is famous for its fenugreek leaves (kasoori methi) which contribute to the signature taste of great Butter Chicken. Turmeric grows

throughout the country, as do cumin and coriander. Fennel is popular in South Indian dishes. Asafoetida, mango powder, and tamarind add sourness. Chai wallahs (tea stall workers) become famous for their ability to blend the signature spices they add to the chai (tea with milk) they peddle.

Tea and Coffee

Tea is the world’s most consumed beverage; India’s South Nilgiri hills and the Northeastern regions of Assam and Darjeeling produce vast quantities. Northern Kerala’s evertwisting hill station roads are often dotted with the cherry berry bushes of coffee plantations. Locals enjoy an afternoon ritual of South Indian filtered coffee augmented with sweetened condensed milk. How do Indians pull this cornucopia of ingredients together on the plate?

Putting it all together

A typical Indian meal contains a balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent. These tastes mirror the five elements – water, earth, fire, air and space. It’s an Ayurvedic (5,000 year old Indian holistic health practice) principle that these tastes are taken in combinations to balance the elements within our own systems.

Combinations on the plate could include a meat curry or dry masala, dal, rice, a soup or salad, yogurt raita, chutneys, pickles, and/or bread.

Truthfully, a bit of dal, a chapati and a green chilli are as elaborate a meal as most can hope for.

But almost everyone can afford chaat (street food snacks). And at festivals, sweet vendors sell every kind of burfi, pak and ladoo sweets.

Now, how does one actually take the ingredients and cook them?

The Keys to Cooking Indian

The best Indian cooks know how to pace cooking to produce maximal flavour.

And, the most important tool in their kitchen is a Masala Daba (spice box).

The spices in a Masala Daba vary depending on the region of India. A basic one for cooking North Indian food might contain black mustard seeds, cumin seeds, ground cumin, ground 20 Culinaire | November 2021

coriander, cloves, whole black pepper, cinnamon bark, Indian chilli powder, and turmeric. In the south, coriander might be replaced by fennel, and/or green cardamom pods, and star anise.

Fresh green chilli, garlic and ginger pastes are also used in most recipes.

Tamarind, lemons and mango powder are used for adding a bit of sourness.

All cooks roast their own spices to pull the essential oils out. Cooking is then sequenced slowly for the tempering of spices and blooming of flavours. Still think Indian food is just curry?

By now, you can see there’s more to creating Indian dishes than adding a dash of that often stale yellow “curry powder” the Brits commercialized.

Hopefully, you’re now curious to explore a wider range of foods here in Alberta.

Bringing it home

Because most of the early Indian immigrants to Canada were from Punjab, and that trend continued for the last 150 years, most of the food we see in Alberta is Northern Indian. The Moghuls brought Tandoor (cooking in a clay oven) to Punjab, and the Sikhs of Punjab spread this method to Pakistan and other parts of India. Clay Oven in Calgary is a great place to sample tandoor meats and breads.

Sohail Raja, of Mirchi Restaurant in Calgary’s Westwinds area, hails from Pakistan. He says he’d love for people to try more dishes on his menu and in

particular, the Karahi (high sided cast iron cooking vessels) dishes his country is famous for. “Our people love their Chicken or Mutton Karahi, Sesame Seed Naan, Bhindi (okra) and dal.”

Across town, at Moti Mahal, Jesse Mann says, “The food at our restaurant is mostly North Indian but we also wanted to showcase some of our favourite chaat from West India’s Mumbai and Goa, plus South India.

So, we opened Saffron Street in First Street Market. Favourites include Chole Bhature (puffed bread with chickpeas), Vada Pav (sweet buns filled with vada donuts) and Puris (crispy filled shells).”

You can find Bengali Fish with its prominent yellow mustard flavour at Calcutta Cricket Club; the best of Tamil Nadu’s Chettinadu foods can be found at Raj Palace’s three locations. And, many of Calgary’s Indian restaurants feature delicous Indo-Chinese Hakka or East African Gujarat fusion dishes to delve into.

It’s definitely time to educate our palates beyond curry and butter chicken to the particularities of Indian cuisine.

Eating India author, Chitrita Banerji, spent most of her life travelling India to try regional cuisines. She says, “I know that one lifetime, one memory, is not enough to eat, know and absorb India.”

Karen has led seven food tours to India since 2012. Feasting with eyes first at fresh markets and belly after with chef friends, is how she most enjoys this ancient culture.

Dine-in, order take-out or shop in person. We are OPEN for business all year long.

MAINS/ENTRÉES Arepas Ranch 403•918•3177

Gluten Free

Serving gourmet Venezuelan cuisine, our speciality is the Arepa, a cornmeal patty filled with your choice of shredded beef, chicken salad, black beans, ham and cheese; with vegan & veggie options as well.

Arepas Ranch Bowl

Pabelloncito, Rancho, Llano, Veggie, Catire, Patacon Pisao + drink

Arepa of Your Choice

Pelua, Ranchera, Llanera, Catira, Pabellon, Reina Pepiada, Jamonua, La Bomba, Domino, Veggie plus small yuca fries and drink

A Touch of India is a locally owned and operated business, serving dishes of authentic Indian cuisine. Our delicious meals can be served hot or cold, suitable for everyone. Treat yourself to Indian takeout and try the best samosas in Calgary!

A Touch of India 403•971•2579

Hot Lunch

Daily hot lunch is available for dine-in and takeout. You won’t want to miss out on our butter chicken served over rice with a piece of naan bread.

Fresh & Frozen Curries to Go All of our dishes are available in pre-packaged containers to go. These are perfect to stock up in your fridge or freezer for weekly meals.

Samosas

Vegetable, beef, or chicken samosas. Samosas are made fresh daily and also available frozen.

At Bangkok Street Food, we strive to bring you the best Thai street food with over 30 of the most amazing Thai street food dishes you will ever taste – the flavours of Thailand will keep your taste buds guessing!

Bangkok Street Food

Drunken Noodle

Large rice noodles, broccoli, carrots, egg, cilantro Chicken or Veggie; Shrimp or Beef

587•997•3344

After spending 30 years in Asia, this father/son duo are cooking food their way and changing the way you think about Asian food. 100% Gluten free, you’ll be blown away by the flavours and creativity in each dish.

ExpatAsia

403•899•2742

Gluten Free

Poutine

Crispy pork belly on tater tots topped with cheddar cheese curds, Korean chili flakes and smothered in pan made pork gravy

Chicken Wings

Choice of Korean BBQ, Filipino BBQ, Garlic salt & pepper or Spicy sweet soy served with Jasmine rice + pop or water

In Home Catering

Birthdays, Anniversaries, Graduations and more – email jeff@expatasia.ca

KFS BBQ brings you world famous flavours from the smoke pit. Brisket, pulled pork, smoked chicken and burgers are just a few things on our menu!

KFS Smokehouse 825•431•7799

BBQ Smoked Pork Side Rib Combo

Tender pork side ribs glazed with bbq sauce; choice of coleslaw, seasoned fries, gluten free pasta salad or jollof rice + pop or water

Korean cuisine, shaved ice ice cream and desserts.

Flying Bowl 825•438•9635

KOKOM’S Kokom’s Bannock Kitchen

Bibimbap

Korean Rice Bowl

Bulgogi Bowl

Marinated Beef Rice Bowl

Kimchi Bowl

Stir-Fried Kimchi Rice Bowl

Fresh & Loca Check out our full menus at www.freshandlocal.ca

Market+Kitchen

KOKOM - Plains Cree word meaning “your Grandmother.”

BANNOCK - A bread recipe from Scotland, perfected by Indigenous people.

KITCHEN - A place for family togetherness, family share and family love.

Menus at www.freshandlocalkit

403•680•2274

in Avenida Village 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p

Buy online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca November 2021 | Culinaire 21

Latin Food Specialities is your local Bodega. Family-owned and operated, they carry a huge assortment of items from Latin America.

Latin Food Specialties

403•667•7951

Feature 1

Assortment of Latin Snacks (Empanadas, Tequeños, Arepas, Cachapas)

Feature 2

Latin Sauces, Tortillas, Cheeses, Chips, Sweets, Guacamole, and grocery items

Mestizo is the place to go to get your truly authentic Mexican cuisine. From their fabulous El Pastor, to the local favourite lengua (beef toungu e), you and your taste buds will consistently be surprised!

3 Taco Meal: 3 tacos with refried beans + a can of coke Cod, shrimp, Bistec (sirloin), Suadero (brisket), pastor (pork stake marinate with orange juice), chorizo, 4 Taco Combo: 4 tacos + grilled chicken, beef tounge, cochinita pibil, Chicken tinga, Carnitas a can of coke

Mestizo Mexican Street Food 587•586•0125

Over 50 local vendors... one checkout! Take your time poking around The Mercantile. Discover so many delicious products including those from Rustic Sourdough Bakery, Irvings Farm Fresh, D Dutchmen Dairy, Taste of Ukraine, and Sabores, to name a few. Visit our website www.avenidamercantile.com for a full list.

The Mercantile

See you soon!

403•860•8794

Miss P’s Gluten Free 403•970•6175

Gluten Free

We specialize in all things Gluten Free. Fabulous breads, pastries, perogies, take home meals and so much more! Come in and check us out, we will put a smile on your face and leave you wanting more.

Cinnamon Buns

Large soft pastry dripping with cinnamon and butter, topped off with 3 different flavours, caramel, vanilla glaze, or crunchy walnut.

Caramel Apple Pie

Individual size apple pie, filled with tart apples surrounded by a soft flaky crust smothered in a smooth creamy caramel sauce.

Mykonos Street Grill is a family-owned vendor that was created out of a love for family and amazing food.

Mykonos offers delicious greek specialities with an innovative twist!

Mykonos Street Grill

Souvlaki Wrap

Your choice of chicken, pork or beef souvlaki in a wrap + Greek fries and a drink

Souvlaki & Salad

Your choice of Village or Mykonos salad with pork, beek or chicken souvlaki + a drink

403•815•3218 Ocho Rios Authentic Caribbean Cuisine is a locally owned and operated Caribbean food catering/delivery service.

Jerk Chicken

Jerk chicken meal served with spicy veggies and fried plantains

Jerk Pork

Jerk pork meal served with spicy veggies and fried plantains

Ocho Rios Authentic Caribbean Cuisine 587•817•2323

Oishidesu Ramen Shack provides outstanding choices for authentic Japanese ramen cuisine.

Oishidesu Ramen Shack

Sumo Ramen

587•966•4744

Ramen noodles in black garlic tonkotsu broth; served with roasted pork belly, roasted chicken breast and braised beef; topped with edamame beans, corn, shitake mushroom and scallions; and finished with soft boiled egg, tagorashi, naruto and shredded nori.

Gluten free option also available (rice noodles)

We firmly believe anything is great with the good ol’ perogy and we’ve had a great time being creative with our dishes. Our ingredients are sourced locally and our dishes are homemade with our highly sought-after family recipes.

Perogy Boyz 587•888•7592

The Tex-Mex

8 perogies topped with melted cheese blend/home made salsa/sour cream + 5 slices of jalepeno sausage

Classic Italian meals, made from scratch! Pranzo offers pastas, salads, dips, antipasto and more – both fresh and frozen.

Pranzo Italiano 587•707•0098

22 Culinaire | November 2021

Personal 9 inch pizza

Choose from margherita, chicken pesto, all meat, or roasted vegetable pizza

Chicken Pesto Panini

Grilled Chicken, provolone cheese, home made pesto tomato & onion on ciabatta bread

MAINS/ENTRÉES

For 30 years, Primal Soup has been Calgary’s go-to place of artisan, gluten-free, made-from-scratch soups.

All our artisan soups come in 1 litre, ready to eat, frozen tubs. www.primalsoupcompany.com

Hot Specials

• Soup of the day and 1/2 turkey or egg salad sandwich • Grilled Reuben Sandwich • Chicken Pot Pie or Three Cheese Mac n Cheese

Primal Soup Company

info@primalsoupcompany.com

Que Chivo brings the savory and sweet flavors of Salvadoran street food to the streets of Calgary.

Specializing in pupusas, tamales, yucca frita, Salvadorean tacos, sweet plantain empanada and more.

2 Pupusa Combo

Choose from any 2 puposas chicharron, revueltas, pollo or vegetarian plus yuca fries + canned pop

3 Taco Combo

3 tacos (chicken or steak) + canned pop

Quechivo Salvadoran Street Food

403•472•9998

Sabor a Peru brings a piece of Peru to Calgary, a taste of our authentic and traditional Peruvian cuisine to our Peruvian friends and all who love Peruvian food.

Seafood Fiesta

1 ceviche, 1 arroz con marisco (Peruvian seafood paella) + 2 cans Inka

Sabor A PerÚ 825•712•5522

Siomai or pork dumplings are one of the famous Filipino street foods in the Philippines. Siomai is the favorite snack of Filipinos and is known for the dipping sauces that comes with it - chili, garlic and toyomansi. It is best paired with sago’t gulaman or tapioca drink.

Siomai (pork dumplings)

24 pcs served steamed or fried with FREE dipping sauces soy lime & chili garlic

Siomai Rice

10 pcs fried Siomai with special pandan rice

Stir-fried Noodles with Siomai

Stir-fried chow-mein noodles with teriyaki & sweet chili sauce topped with 7 pcs fried siomai

Siomai Queen Filipino Street Food 403•835•8790

Thai Curry Kits include our homemade curry paste and quality hard-to-find ingredients like palm sugar, fish sauce, bird’s eye chilies, coconut milk and lime leaves. All you need is a kit, then you add your protein and veggies for a divinely fresh homemade Thai curry.

Thai Manna Regular Combo

1 regular Thai curry bowls - your choice of pop or juice box

Thai Manna Small Combo 1 small Thai curry bowls (half size), 1 New mango coconut tapioca pudding + your choice of pop or juice box

Thai Manna 403•870•0341

Red Bowls: GF/DF/Vegan; Green Bowls: GF/DF; Panany Bowls: GF/DF; Yellow Bowls: DF Protein Choices: Beef, chicken, beyond beef or none

“Te Amo” means “I love you” in Spanish, that inspires us with vision to making everyone fall in love with tea in a healthy way. We strive for providing healthy drink, which is completely free from any artificial preservatives or fruit syrup. Each TeAmo fruit tea is made of 100% freshly cold pressed fruits, mixed with our selected premium tea base. Please come on in and be healthy!

TEAmo Fruit Tea

403•397•7398

Canadian driven, travel inspired. Creating classic comfort food and adding a culinary twist. From burgers & sandwiches to Asian fusion tacos and more.

J Spot Burger & Fries

House beef patty, secret sauce, charred melted cheese skirt, lettuce, yuzo pickled onions + triple cooked fries

3 Soft Tacos

Choose from our beef bulgogi, char sui pork, KFC (korean fried chicken) soft tacos

The J Spot

403•971•2508

Calgary’s original Fried Chicken and Waffles. Bringing southern soul food directly to you!

Waffles and Chix

Fried chicken and waffles, maple syrup + white gravy

Fried Chicken Poutine

Fries and poutine

Waffles & Chix 403•617•7147

In Avenida Village • 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE November 2021 | Culinaire 23

DESSERTS, TREATS & PAIRINGS Beyond dietary labels... just real food. Old school nutrition. We aspire to celebrate food the way it was in generations past!

Food, Drinks & Products:

• Organic, keto, paleo, traditional food & drink options.

• Organic coconut butter blended hot drinks, Tisane sparkling organic herbal teas, kombucha

Gelato:

Assortment of delicious gelato flavours available by the cup, milkshakes, floats. Dairy free options too!

At Fantasy Doughnuts and Pretzels, we twist our dough fast! From Sweet to Savoury, you are sure to find something for each of your friends and family. Our Doughnuts are classically decorated, like they should be.

Donut, peanut butter, oreo

403•473•1811

Fantasy Donuts & Pretzels

Salted Maple Cream Donut Donut, cream, maple, coarse salt Oreo Peanut Butter Donut

Brühe Real Food

403•890•0001 / 403•926•7349

The best cannoli in Calgary, featuring 21 flavoured fillings. With hand made shells & filling from our secret family recipe. Small batch local roasted coffee.

Specialty cake and pastry orders available (ask Elizabeth for details) “Leave the gun, take the cannoli.”

from The Godfather movie

Holy Cannoli 403•617•7453

The one stop shop for all your Latin food needs. Latin full sized dessert, spices, snacks and frozen meals.

Dessert Features:

• Tres Leches Cake – Our homemade Tres Leches cake; an ultra light cake soaked in a sweet milk mixture and topped with fresh whipped cream and cinnamon • Passion fruit cheesecake, crema volteada (full sizes desserts) • Frozen: meals, empanadas, tamales

Warike

825•712•5522

SIPS is Calgary’s only licensed vendor located in a market and Alberta’s first purpose built food hall.

Serving local and Canadian wines and beers and owner Vince is on hand to pair any meal with a delicious beverage for you!

Licensed Sit In Dining

SIPS Wine & Beer

GIFTS & MORE Herbal Healing

403•874•7072 Hand-made products which are all natural, vegan and use sustainably sourced herbs and botanicals, by a registered herbal therapist.

Le Bouquet

Casa Corazon

825•438•5132 Specializing in creating wild and unstructured modern designs, using locally grown flowers and plants wherever possible.

403•467•0011 Fairly traded hand-woven goods from Guatemala. Bags, scarves, shawls, men’s shirts and more.

PRODUCERS, PRODUCE, BULK & BREAD WALKERS OWN PRODUCE Farm Outlet

Fresh & Local Farm Outlet Order Online

FreshAndLocalFarmOutlet.com

Bridgeland Bread

403•701•4997

in Avenida Village 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p

Buy online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca

24 Culinaire | November 2021

Walkers Own Produce

Sunworks Farm

403•475•4155 ext 5

Calgary Bulk Foods Order Online

www.CalgaryBulkFood.com

Stock Your R Pantry with Rice FOR ALL OCCASIONS

ICE IS A STAPLE ALL OVER the world, with each country having its own speciality that allows the versatility of rice to shine.

Dressing:

¼ cup (60 mL) water 2 Tbs (30 mL) Thai fish sauce 1 tsp coconut sugar 1 clove garlic, minced 1 Tbs lemongrass, minced 1 Tbs (15 mL) lime juice

Salad:

Salad

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY Black Japonica rice is a blend of short grain black rice and medium grain mahogany rice. It is high in healthpromoting anthocyanin antioxidants, has a firmer bite and can be eaten cold from the fridge. Its deep, rich colour makes a wonderful base for bright herbs and vegetables.

Black Japonica Thai-Style Rice Salad Serves 3-4

1 cup Japonica rice 1½ cups (360 mL) water ½ cup (120 mL) coconut water 1 tsp salt 3 dried lime leaves, optional

2 cups green beans, trimmed and cut into 4 cm pieces 2 medium tomatoes, bite-sized 1 yellow sweet pepper, bite-sized ¼ cup basil or that basil leaves or both, packed ¼ cup mint leaves, loosely packed ¼ cup cilantro leaves, loosely packed (can substitute parsley) 1 medium red onion 1/3 cup toasted coconut shavings (unsweetened) Garnish Thai red pepper (optional) 1. In a medium pot over medium heat add rice, water, coconut water, salt and lime leaves.

Cover, bring to a boil and reduce heat to simmer. Cook 40 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, add the water, fish sauce and coconut sugar to a small pot. Place on medium-low heat and cook until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat. Add the garlic, lemongrass and lime juice, and stir to combine. Let sit and allow the flavours to infuse until needed.

3. In a medium pot over high heat bring 5 cups (1.25 L) of water to boil. Add the green beans and cook 3 minutes.

4. Tear or roughly chop the basil, mint and cilantro. Peel and thinly slice the red onion.

5. In a medium bowl, add the rice, beans, tomatoes and sweet pepper and cover with the dressing. Gently stir to combine. Add the basil, mint and cilantro and red onion and gently stir to combine. Top with toasted coconut and Thai red pepper (if desired).

November 2021 | Culinaire 25

1. In a medium pot over medium heat add oil. Add onion and sauté 3 minutes.

2. Add garlic, thyme, and bay leaves and sauté 2 minutes.

3. Add rice and stir together, cooking another 2 minutes.

4. Add the coconut milk, stock, kidney beans and salt. Stir and cover. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes. Remove from heat and let rest 10 minutes.

5. Fluff, plate and enjoy.

Mexican Red Rice Serves 4-6

Rice and peas is from the West Indies with roots back to Ghana. it pairs beautifully with jerk chicken, oxtail or curry goat.

Rice and Peas Serves 4-6

1½ Tbs (22 mL) olive oil 1 small onion, finely diced 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 5 sprigs thyme 2 bay leaves 1½ cups medium or long grain rice 1 cup (240 mL) light coconut milk 1½ cup (360 mL) vegetable or chicken stock 1 can kidney beans, drained 1½ tsp salt

1 large onion 2 medium red tomatoes 6 small orange tomatoes 1 each medium sweet peppers (red, orange and yellow) 3 cloves garlic, peeled 2 tbs (30 mL) olive oil 1 tsp smoked salt 1 tsp chili powder 2 cups long or medium grain rice 3 cups (750 mL) stock (vegetable or chicken) or water 1. Preheat oven to 425º F. 2. Peel onion and cut into 8. Remove stems from tomatoes and cut in half.

De-stem and seed the sweet peppers and cut in half. Reserve half of each.

3. In a medium bowl, add chopped onion, tomatoes, sweet peppers and garlic cloves. Add oil, salt and chili powder and stir to coat vegetables. Pour vegetables

room at Flower & Wolf, to enjoy Chef Cole Glendinning’s superb menu. Six delicious dishes await, each perfectly paired.

Many evenings are selling out with waiting lists, so reserve your places!

Special One-Off, Surf-Turf Premium Pairing Dinner at Big Fish Open Range Thursday November 4.

A fabulous one-off Fine & Dine evening, with a sparkling reception and canapes, followed by a 4-course premium dinner with five pairings!

Vine & Dine at Flower & Wolf Friday November 26 We’re in our own large private dining 26 Culinaire | November 2021

Vine & Dine at Safari Grill Wednesday December 15 We’ve been missing this rich and flavourful, satisfying food, so we’re coming back to Safari Grill for a 6-course Vine & Dine pairing dinner, for one night only!

Restaurants and menus are added regularly, so keep checking culinairemagazine.ca/events.

Contact linda@culinairemagazine.ca, 403-870-9802 to reserve, and to hear about these very popular events in advance! We try to cater for all allergies.

This red rice dish (or arroz rojo) has its roots in Mexican cuisine. Its reddishorange colour is the highlight of any meal, along with the deep roasted flavour of the vegetables combined with the undertone of the smoky chili powder for a flavour explosion.

onto a lined baking sheet or dish. Roast for 15 - 20 minutes until vegetables are soft and starting to blister.

4. Remove from oven and pour ingredients into a blender. Puree until ingredients have turned to liquid. You should have 2 cups (500 mL) of puree. Top with water if needed.

5. Heat stock (or water) on medium heat until stock is hot. Wash rice thoroughly until the water runs clear. Drain.

6. In a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the oil. Add the rice to the hot oil and stir to coat the rice with oil. Continue cooking the rice until golden brown, 10 minutes.

7. Add the puree mixture to the rice and stir as it comes to a boil. Add the hot stock and continue to stir to combine. Taste and add more salt if needed. Let boil 3 - 5 minutes and then reduce heat to low.

Simmer, covered for 10 minutes.

8. Remove from heat and leave covered for another 15 - 20 minutes. Remove lid and let sit 5 minutes. Fluff rice and serve.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

ADVERTORIAL

BRUMONT: The Soul of Madiran

M

ore than a craftsman, Alain Brumont is a wine artist, independent and committed. A man who distrusts trends, and develops every vintage as a work of art in its own right.

Wines should be able to excite the five senses of those who taste them. And for that, the Man of Madiran relies on local varieties with unmistakable personalities – Petit Courbu, Petit Manseng, and Tannat – which he has not only worked tirelessly to renew, but has also successfully elevated to the level of the great French varieties.

By controlling their yield, determining their optimal ripeness, taking great care in the vinification process, and growing them with respect and aplomb, he manages to show that not only do these varieties have a place in the world of wine, but that they also bring something new to it.

A trailblazer, Brumont uses the bounty of nature to perfect every aspect of the harvesting process, from the diversity of soil types and exposure to altitude, defining each of his wines through a mosaic of terroirs, and establishing unique and legendary parcels of land, like La Tyre and Vieilles Vignes. From the beginning of his career he was on the hunt for select parcels of land, rehabilitating existing vines, and seeking traces of ancient vineyards. Today, he cultivates the finest of the appellation’s terroirs, and each parcel grows the variety best suited.

Since he began observing the landscapes of his Pyrenean Piedmont, and taking delight in these exceptional surroundings, Brumont has come to believe that nature is always generous to those who know how to respect practicing an approach that is respectful of the environment, as well as tailored to his varieties and to his terroir.

~Alain Brumont As he likes to say, “One needs to know when not to work”. The strategic use of agricultural machinery, contribution of organic materials from farms in the Pyrenees far removed from intensive agriculture, and sodding to regulate soil heating, are also practices that have enabled the fauna and flora of the land to be preserved.

Due to climate change, cultivation methods need constant adjustment, so as not to be caught off guard, on-site teams try to anticipate needs, always listening to what the soil has to tell them.

Preserving the secondary flora, natural mychorrization, and microbial life by opting for tailored plant cover, means maintaining soil structure, and allowing for the remediation of parcels, while attempting to limit the effects of high heat.

But Brumont has taken this approach further still. By planting his vines in the heart of the forest, they benefit from an intra-parcel microclimate that fosters a healthier viticulture. Both Château

Bouscassé and Château Montus are the direct result of this exceptional expertise.

Alain Brumont doesn’t just make wine, he interprets terroir.

Château Bouscassé Tannat, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Château Montus

Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon

2021 HOLIDAY

GIFT GUIDE For our gift suggestions this year, we’re staying as local as possible to support Canadian companies, so we scoured our province and country to find gifts for your food and drinkloving family and friends. We’re delighted to present 19 of our favourites here. We hope you enjoy them as much as we do!

LANNIE RAE GOURMET

Cochrane’s Lannie Rae Gourmet have been making artisan, gourmet pancake and waffle mixes for 13 years, and have now brought out a range of six new flavours for the holidays – and we can vouch that they’re very delicious! Choose Irish Cream, Snickerdoodle, Pear Frangipane, Bourbon Butter Pecan, Rum & Eggnog, and Pumpkin White Chocolate. $15-16, stockists/orders at lannieraegourmet.com/pantry

COOKING WITH KIDS

Finding tasty, nutritious meals that also let kids get involved in the kitchen can be really tough. Cooking with Kids went straight to the source and asked foodies and local folks for their recipes that are tried and tested, kidfriendly, and sure to help spark a love of cooking in the wee ones. And 100% of the proceeds go to children’s and youth initiatives in the community! $25 online at cpyfstore.ca.

28 Culinaire | November 2021

HUMMINGBIRD CHOCOLATE SALTED CARAMELS

Erica and Drew Gilmour are international aid workers who spent their careers working in developing countries, and now produce artisan bean-to-bar, small batch chocolate in Almonte, Ontario. Their delicious Chocolate Salted Caramels are wrapped in 70 percent dark chocolate and topped with flaky sea salt from Vancouver Island Salt Co. 9-piece box $22, see hummingbirdchocolate.com for stockists.

HANDFUEL BAGEL CASHEWS AND LEMON MARCONA ALMONDS

WINEGUARD

No one wants flies and wasps in their drinks, so Calgary’s woman-owned, Blossom Bench Group have created stainless steel WineGuard glass covers and colourful, food-grade silicone DrinkGuard lids (which double as a nonslip coaster on your boat!) to protect them – a perfect stocking stuffer! Single WineGuard in sleeve $13, set of 4 with stand $47, singe DrinkGuard $5, set of 8 $37. wineguard.com to order.

A new to us company we’re thrilled to get to know, is Ontario’s Handfuel.

Cole Richman creates flavourful, quality nut and berry products, and they’re really good! We can’t stop popping our faves, Everything Bagel Cashews and Lemon Marcona Almonds! 150g packs are at Sobeys stores as well as online at handfuel.ca, where you can also order 10, 16, or 24-bag mixed boxes from $65 with free shipping.

EATABLE GOURMET POPCORN

Air-popped corn is coated in premium Belgian white chocolate and sprinkled with Champagne-infused sugar crystals that literally "POP" in your mouth!

These elevated popcorns are made with a process that eliminates the alcohol to leave the residual flavours, and every pack donates to rePurpose Global and Second Harvest charities. $9-10 at eatable.com, and at Indigo, Saks OFF 5TH, HBC Marketplace and more.

π

SPIRIT HILLS RESERVE PORT STYLE FLOWER WINE, ALBERTA

It’s always nice to see bottles that transcend styles and elevate the drinking experience. A fortified “flower” wine in the style of mead, it tastes much closer to tawny port than the work of local bees, but proudly showing off lifted floral characters, tawny, nutty notes, and a rich sweet palate. Very nice, and very local in every way. CSPC +842125, 375 mL $46

CUISIPRO ROASTING RACK

We suspect you’ll want to keep this for yourself rather than gifting, as these Cuisipro roasting racks make getting your roast or bird from the pan to your serving platter or cutting board, a whole lot easier! With large handles, these nonstick racks fit a regular 41x33 cm roasting pan and hold up to an 11 kg bird or roast.

They fold for easy storage, and have a removable pin to take them apart. $37 at zestspot.com.

November 2021 | Culinaire 29

ITALIAN CENTRE SHOP ADVENT CALENDAR

The Italian Centre Shop have produced their first curated advent calendar with 24 individually wrapped mini versions of treasures for the holidays! Each pack includes a postcard with clues about that day’s product, available at full size in the stores. From November 4, each of the five locations in Edmonton and Calgary will have only 100 calendars, so you’ll have to be quick to be sure of getting yours! $50.

WHITEWATER COOKS TOGETHER AGAIN

TOMATO WHEELS WOODEN SPOONS

The sixth cookbook in BC’s Shelley Adams’ Whitewater Cooks series, ‘Together Again’ was the name chosen before the pandemic, and is now more apt then ever. Filled with nearly 80 brand new, simple yet elegant, easy to follow recipes, beautifully photographed and produced, there are far too many dishes we want to make to list here, so do check it out – we suspect you’ll be thrilled, as we are!

Alicon Holdings Ltd $37.

The pandemic has turned everything on its head for Edmonton’s Moirae Choquette. She was awarded a culinary scholarship in Italy, and was set to launch and offer her quick Italian food last fall, but instead has created kitchen tools brand, Tomato Wheels. Her inaugural products are winners – the light yet very strong, Acacia wood Corner Scraper and Stir Stick are really well made. $25 each at tomatowheels.com

WABANAKI BARREL AGED MAPLE SYRUP

ALCHEMIST VINEGAR BY TIPPA DISTILLERY

The Tippa nano-distillery in Okotoks makes the awarded Lovebird Gin and Magpie Rum – and now Alchemist Vinegar too! We’re really enjoying Honey Blackened Garlic Vinegar, from fresh Alberta garlic blackened in a sous vide for two months, and added to honey mead before being converted to vinegar with birch bark. With many culinary uses, we’re loving a few drops in our cocktails too! 500 mL $17 at tippadistillery.square.site 30 Culinaire | November 2021

Wabanaki Maple is Indigenous, woman-owned and located on Neqotkuk (Tobique First Nation), and committed to helping to preserve the environment and Indigenous communities.

This beautiful package contains three 100 mL bottles of barrel-aged maple syrup, with Bourbon, Whiskey, and Toasted Oak. The syrups are $12 each or $33 for the pack of three.

Check out wabanakimaple.com for stockists and to order.

POPPY BARLEY TABLEMATS

People and the planet are top priority for Kendall and Justine Barber, founders of luxury Alberta footwear brand Poppy Barley, and now they’ve branched out to include homeware with the limited edition Table-Top Collection of PB Casa. The range includes covetable, chic leather placemats and coasters in three colours. From $30 at Edmonton and Calgary Poppy Barley stores, and at PoppyBarley.com/Casa.

Amarone Classico Riserva Ripassa Valpolicella Sergio Zenato DOCG 2013 Lugana Riserva Lugana San Benedetto DOC 2017 Sergio Zenato DOC 2017 DOC 2020

Amarone Classico DOCG 2016

www.zenato.it

93 PTS.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM

92 PTS.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM

99 PTS.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM

94 PTS.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM

94 PTS.

JAMESSUCKLING.COM

Taste & Tradition

For generations the Zenato family has perfected traditional Veronese winemaking methods to create their award-winning wines.

Available at your favourite liquor stores Alberta wide! (CSPC)

Ripassa Valpolicella DOC '17 (479766) Lugana San Benedetto DOC '20 (479584) Amarone Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato DOCG '13 (746088) Lugana Riserva Sergio Zenato DOC '17 (703575) Amarone Classico DOCG '16 (413179)

www.galileowineandspirits.com

Prepared by our incredible

Calgary Zoo catering team

Watch for Themed Safari Brunches and Takeaway Dinners.

Keep an eye out for upcoming experiences at: calgaryzoo.com/events/events-at-a-glance

JOLENE’S TEABAG GIFT PACK

JOLIE POP

Calgary wine girl, Kelley Abbey, would start her wine tastings with a glass of bubbles and a bowl of her famous truffle popcorn. As much as people loved the wine tasting, they always talked at the end of the night about that darn truffle popcorn! It started to have a bit of a cult following… So Abbey perfected her recipe and now we can buy a kit to make at home. $21 DM @thejoilepop or email thejoliepop@gmail.com.

FOOMAN COOKIES

New this year, Calgary’s Buddy’s Bakery are baking Fooman Cookies fresh daily – they’re delicious, traditional, Iranian treats, and stuffed with a cinnamon, sugar and walnut filling, With a crumbly texture, heat these cookies briefly in a microwave or oven and eat warm.

They’re especially good with a topping of ice cream, or mixed into ice cream! $3 each and $10 for 4 cookies. Pick up or order at buddysbakery.ca.

32 Culinaire | November 2021

Jolene Brewster and Jess McNally of Jolene's Tea House have been hand blending organic teas in Banff since 2005 – and we’ve only just discovered them, and are now big fans! Their 24-bag, organic teabag pack makes a great gift for tea lovers like us, and contains three bags of each of eight flavours: three black teas, two green teas, and three caffeine-free herbal teas. $30 in store or at jolenesteahouse.com.

WAYNE GRETZKY NO.99 SALTED CARAMEL CANADIAN CREAM

Imagine three-times Alberta Beverage Award winner, Wayne Gretzky No.99 Red Cask Whisky, blended with fresh from the farm Ontario cream, salt, and caramel, and you have a truly Canadian holiday cream liqueur for sipping over ice, pouring over your pudding, or adding to your coffee! It’s rich, with marshmallow, toffee, and milk chocolate aromas, following through to the creamy palate.

CSPC +837957 $32-35

MEDIUM RARE TERRANOVA APRON

We see chefs wearing Calgary’s Medium Rare aprons on most of the Canadian TV cooking shows and in a lot of our favourite restaurants, so we know they’re long lasting and look good too. We can buy them to wear at home, and they make superb gifts for the cook in your life! These 100% cotton Terranova aprons come in different colours, and we really like this Seafoam (pictured) too! $75, check out mediumrarechef.com.

2021 Winning Wines, Beers & Spirits!

2021

Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits Beer is pleased to offer four special November packs of award winning wines, beers, and spirits from the 2021 Alberta Beverage Awards!

Food Friendly Libations:

A mixed case of 6 Best In Class Wines! six mouthwatering recipes included

Special for November, only $144.99!

Cocktail Worthy Creations: 3 Award Winning bottles of Vodka, Whisky, & Tequila!

cocktail recipes included

Special for November, only $132.99!

Highly Rated Reds: A mixed case of 6 Award Winning Red Wines!

Special for November, only $122.99!

Buzz Worthy Brews:

A mixed case of 12 Award Winning Beers!

Special for November, only $51.99!

Now available online at rmwsb.com or in-store Rocky Mountain Wine Spirits Beer 5-225 58 Avenue SE, Calgary • 403.305.0096 • Info@rockymountainwinespiritsbeer.com

artisan food market bringing Alberta to your plate

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are you in on the secret?

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Charcuterie, Sausages, Cheese & Preserves Use promo code CULINAIRE for $10 off your first month

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STEP BY STEP:

Eggplant and Shrimp Coconut Curry STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

T

he unfortunate eggplant has been fighting off a bad reputation for centuries. Some folks thought it would give them leprosy, cancer, insanity, and other maladies. A member of the nightshade family (which also includes potatoes, tomatoes, and peppers), eggplant contains an alkaloid that may cause inflammation but no scientific studies have been able to directly prove it. Eggplant grows on a short bush

34 Culinaire | November 2021

where the berries sprout and hide beneath large leaves, hence the term “nightshade”.

Technically, eggplant is a fruit (who knew?) and a berry. That’s right, a berry!

It contains small edible seeds, so in botanical terms it’s categorized as a berry.

How’s that for fun facts? However, in the kitchen, the eggplant behaves most certainly like a vegetable. It is a culinary powerhouse that is versatile, and oh so adaptable.

From the classic Italian eggplant parmigiana, to smoky Middle Eastern baba ganoush, to spicy Chinese stirfries and Thai-inspired curries, eggplant recipes show up in kitchens all over the world.

The eggplant is known for its ability to soak up flavours and oil. It is a literal sponge. The oil gives eggplant its characteristic creamy, luscious, buttery texture, but you may be afraid to keep adding oil to the skillet as it cooks. The key here is to add a little bit at a time, giving the eggplant an opportunity to absorb the oil.

You may have also heard that eggplant can be bitter. While the young, fresh eggplants are slightly sweet, it’s true that the older an eggplant is, the more bitter it may become. Salting eggplant will dispel the bitterness, as well as bring out its subtle, sweet earthiness. Besides, eggplant doesn’t really taste like much and definitely needs salt to help it along when it comes to flavour.

When grocery shopping, look for eggplants that are heavy, with smooth, shiny, taut skin. Avoid those that are dull and bruised, meaning they are likely

old. There are hundreds of varieties of this purple powerhouse, but the most commonly sold are large globe eggplants, long and skinny Japanese and Chinese eggplants, and medium-size Italian eggplants. Globes are great when roasted whole for baba ganoush, sliced and fried for eggplant parmigiana, or chopped for curries. The Japanese and Chinese eggplants don’t have as many seeds as the globes, and have a firmer flesh so are great for slicing and frying. The smaller Italian eggplants are tender and creamy, making them ideal for stuffing and plated individually for a show stopping entrée.

Eggplants don’t like to be stored in the fridge as their skin can get rubbery, so try to cook eggplant the day you buy it. If this isn’t possible, store at room temperature for 2-3 days out of direct sunlight.

To highlight eggplant’s ability to soak up mega flavour, I decided to make it the key ingredient in this Thai-inspired curry.

Cubes of eggplant are sautéed in a skillet with oil and aromatics such as onion, garlic, chili, ginger, and spices. Coconut milk makes everything lush, while lime juice adds a brightness that balances out the heat of the chili pepper. I love shrimp here, but you could easily add tofu to keep things vegetarian. I added chopped chard, but handfuls of spinach would work too.

There’s a lot of flavour here, and the eggplant surely shines because of it.

Eggplant and Shrimp Coconut Curry Serves 4

3 Tbs (45 mL) canola oil 1 onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 small green chili, (deseeded for less heat) finely chopped 1 Tbs minced ginger 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 1 medium eggplant, cubed (about 5 cups/1.25 L) 2 cups cherry tomatoes, some halved 1 cup (250 mL) vegetable broth 14 oz (400 mL) can full-fat coconut milk 4 cups chopped Swiss chard or spinach 450 g raw tiger shrimp, peeled 1 lime, juiced ¼ cup chopped cilantro ¼ cup chopped basil

1. In a large sauté pan, warm 2 Tbs (30 mL) of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic, chili, and ginger, cooking for another 2 minutes until fragrant. Stir in the spices, salt, and pepper, along with remaining oil. Cook, stirring frequently for another minute.

2. Add the eggplant and sauté for 2 minutes, stirring to coat it thoroughly with the spice mixture. Stir in the cherry tomatoes.

3. Pour in the vegetable broth. Increase the heat to high, then when it boils, turn the heat down to medium-low and simmer for 5 minutes, until the eggplant has softened.

3. Stir in the coconut milk and chard.

Simmer for another 5 minutes until the sauce has thickened and the greens have wilted.

4. Stir in the shrimp, lime juice, herbs, and a pinch of sugar. Simmer for another few minutes until the shrimp turn pink and are cooked through.

Season to taste with more salt and pepper. Serve immediately over bowls of steamed rice.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan.

Her second cookbook, Vegetables: A Love Story has just been released.

Three cheers for cocoa • 4 oz. brewed coffee (decaf optional) • 1 oz. Creme de Cacao • 1 oz. Cointreau • 1 oz. Dark Rum • 1/2 oz. Vermouth • 1 tsp Dutched cocoa powder • Ice for shaking • Optional – Milk or Dark Chocolate Shavings

Cococo Chocolate Martini / thanks to www.CutCooking.com 1. If you plan to rim the glass with Cococo Chocolatiers Chocolate Shavings, go ahead and do so first. (Hint: use a bit of light corn syrup to help the shavings to stay in place) 2. Combine coffee, liquors and spirits in cocktail shaker.

3. Add Cococo Chocolatiers Dutched Process Cocoa Powder to the cocktail shaker.

4. Add cubes of ice, place lid on shaker and shake well.

5. Using bar strainer, pour 2 Cococoffee Martinis into prepped glassware.

6. Decide if your evening at home is black dress or fluffy slippers. Cheers!

Wishing you comfort & joy. chocolate together

Shop in person at 5 locations | Easy curbside pickup: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights Shop online: www.CococoChocolatiers.com Recipes: www.CococoChocolatiers.com/blogs/recipes

chocolate together

High Alcohol Beers and Aging O

BY DAVID NUTTALL

ne of the great things about beer is it comes in a variety of styles, each one unique due to differences in a number of factors including colour, bitterness, clarity, aroma, and especially flavour. Nevertheless, its most scrutinized aspect is alcohol content, not because there is such a great discrepancy, but primarily because governments care about it for taxation purposes. While beer can be brewed to various alcohol levels, in reality the vast majority fall in and around the 5 percent Alcohol By Volume (ABV) range.

The reason comes from alcohol being a by-product of yeast's fermentation of sugars. As it turns out, the yeast varieties commonly used by brewers, and the sugars inherent in the most popular grains (barley, wheat, oats, rye, et al), when combined in the volumes of water needed to produce a batch, equate roughly to the magical 5 percent number.

However, when brewers get creative by adding ingredients, using different yeast strains, and altering brewing methods, beer really starts to get interesting.

Of course, beers can go lower than 5 percent ABV, but the real fun begins with those that raise the bar.

Beer wasn’t always measured for alcohol content. Although the hydrometer has been around since the ancient Greeks, it didn't become a relevant instrument until the late 18th century. Brewers and distillers began measuring their products for identification and as some form of control, so naturally governments soon began applying tariffs based on alcohol content. As the temperance movement gained steam throughout the 19th and into the 20th century, ABV levels became the determinant between legal and illegal beverages.

Coming out of Prohibition, the 5 percent level or lower became the

36 Culinaire | November 2021

benchmark for almost all the world's beers. In the United States, it is still not federally mandated that alcohol content be listed on the label or can. In Canada, all beverages containing 1.1 percent or more alcohol by volume must have that percentage shown, according to Federal Food and Drug Regulations.

Since every mega-brewery active throughout the first three-quarters of the 20th century in North America essentially made adjunct-laden lagers, this wasn't much of an issue. The biggest selling "new" style introduced postProhibition was light beer, coming in at around 4 percent ABV. Since debuting in the 1970s, almost every large brewery now has a low alcohol version of one of their popular brands. On the other hand, outside of the occasional malt liquor, very rarely did a beer stray above 6 percent ABV. Even when craft breweries began en masse in the 1980s, they stuck to traditional styles that stayed in the 5 percent ABV lane.

Still, nobody puts (a) brewer in a corner. As soon as craft breweries could expand their repertoire to introduce

customers to hoppy IPAs and dark beers, high alcohol versions soon followed.

Coupled with the return of legalized home brewing in the late 1970s and the subsequent expansion of import beer selections in restaurants and stores, the public became exposed to beer varieties that hadn’t been seen in North America for decades, if ever. Soon doppelbocks, eisbocks, Scotch ales, Baltic porters, barley wines, double and triple IPAs, a whole host of Belgian styles, and almost any beer with “imperial” in its name, led many drinkers into their first foray of near double digit ABV beer. Once a craft brewery reached a certain age of maturity, their versions of these styles would penetrate the market. With the addition of barrel-aged beers, thanks partly due to the growth of the craft distilling industry, the public now had access to more varieties of beers than ever before.

This led to bottle sharing, collecting, and storing. It has long been known that beer changes as it ages; the confusion often lies in what styles work best. To be sure, the vast majority of beer produced

is meant to be consumed fresh, i.e. soon after being brewed. Light coloured, average ABV, or hoppy beer (like an IPA) do not improve with age, and that represents about 95 percent of the world’s production.

Contrastingly, dark, high alcohol (above 8 percent ABV), malt forward, bottle conditioned, barrel aged, or wild fermented beers will all transform over time; it is up to personal preference as to when the most opportune time for consumption is. Levels of acidity and tannic structure will all drop over time, much like they do in wine, and other flavours will develop. However, the timing is like a bell curve, and waiting longer is not always better, as the beer can reach a point where it degrades into a lacklustre muck.

Even so, most abbey styles such as dubbels, tripels and quads, dark strongs, imperial ales and stouts, old ales, barley wines, and ultra strong ales will all handle anywhere from one to twenty years or more of aging. As long as the storage location is cool, dry, and dark, and corked bottles are stored upright, then all you need is patience.

Exploring and aging high alcohol beers can be a worthwhile endeavour if you

want to discover a whole new dimension of beers. In the coming months some of these styles will be explored further on these pages and we will also see what versions Alberta breweries have brought to the table.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary.

Follow @abfbrewed.

MAKING THE CASE

The Spice of Life

By TOM FIRTH

It’s justifiably said that variety is the spice of life, and given the unrelenting nature of our slightly cloistered lives since early 2020, a little variety can breathe a little freshness into our day to days.

Our November issue of Culinaire usually focuses a little on the spicy, though with wine, spice is a little tricky to focus on. Some wines do have a dominant, spicy pepperiness, or notes like clove, herbs… or many others, but instead this month I’ve looked for a range of wines that might have a little of that spicy character, but also those that might be a breath of fresh air for a tired palate. They’re from different regions of the globe, different grapes, different approaches – but all suitable for crisp wintery days. Or in nine months or so when spring comes along.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

689 Cellars 2018 Killer Drop Napa Valley, California

Built around grenache with about a third syrah, and a smidge of petite syrah.

Look for strawberry and cherry fruits, with loads of spice and a floral character that keeps the magic going. Weighty and spicy this is the sort of glass that looks great, tastes great, and is a solid match with spicy dishes or dishes with a little fattiness over those chilly months.

Drink now.

CSPC +782867 $40-45

City & Country 2017 Okanagan White Alberta

Yes, that isn’t a typo, this is from the only grape winery I know of in Alberta.

Using sourced grapes from the Okanagan Valley, but vinified in Calgary, it’s also the only winery tasting room one can visit in Cowtown. Made with chardonnay and about 15 percent of semillon, it shows off all the right sort of chardonnay character, with milder oak notes and a slightly spicy finish.

This was also a winner at the 2020 Alberta Beverage Awards.

CSPC +801272 $25-27 (or winery direct)

Tenet 2018 The Pundit Syrah Columbia Valley, Washington

An exciting home for this popular grape, the Columbia Valley’s expression of syrah is typically more smoky and earthy over the spice and floral examples from Europe.

Here, the fruits are plush and deep, with prominent tannins and loads of food friendly acids. The sort of wine that near begs for tenderloins, or a tri tip, smoked meats or a great charcuterie board. .

CSPC +826612 $35-39

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

38 Culinaire | November 2021

Sattlerhof 2020 Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark, Austria

Sauvignon blanc from New Zealand seems to be the version most are familiar with, with a lesser awareness of those from France or even from Chile, but in Austria it’s a well-loved, home-grown variety. A floral and very spicy sauvignon blanc, with lime fruits and very little of that gooseberry or cut grass character. Fresh and lively with stunning acids and clean, generous fruits on the palate - it’s a shame we don’t see more Austrian wines here.

CSPC +785297 $26-38

Penfolds 2018 St. Henri Shiraz

Faber 2020 Grenache, Swan Valley Australia

Penfolds 2019 Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz

689 Cellars “Obey” Master and Servant 2018 Cabernet, Napa Valley, California

Scala Dei 2016 Cartoixa, Priorat, Spain

Cabernet sauvignon dominant, in every sense of the word, with a few drops of merlot, this is a big, bold, ripe cabernet for the cellar or for the table. Classic flavours with a fine, silken texture (for cab), tightly wound tannins, and expressive fruit and barrel tones, this is exactly the right sort of wine to accompany those big, meaty dishes Albertan’s love so much. Try a big beef tenderloin, or top quality burgers from the grill.

CSPC +782045 $47-52

Wow, simply put, a stunner from start to finish. Deeply laden with cherry and strawberry fruits, abundant floral tones, and a slightly woody and earthy base. Made with grenache and a little carignan, it’s not too heavy and not too dense to enjoy simply for the sake of a nice glass of red. This was a fine bottle to enjoy while the sun was shining, and would be at home with grilled meats like pork or something with a great marinade.

CSPC +808497 $48-55

Faber 2019 Petit Verdot, Swan Valley Australia

José Maria da Fonseca 2016 José de Sousa Tinto, Alentejano, Portugal

DeMuerte 2019 Blanco Sobra Lias Yecla, Spain

For those that follow vintages closely, 2018 was a pretty good year in parts of Australia. And for those that like premium shiraz, this is a very nice bottle to have in the cellar for when the need arises. Very much on the youthful side at the moment, historically St. Henri matures nice and slowly, with an expected range between about 2025 to about 2040 or so.

CSPC +751692 $150-160

One of the best things about Portuguese wines is that they positively exude that authenticity of place that we wine folks like to call “terroir”. Utilizing a blend of local or indigenous grapes, this red is from the Alentejano region, a wide swath of land in the southern half of Portugal.

Intense berry presence on the palate with a touch of herb and woody/smoky flavours, this will be a great bottle for smoked meats, briskets, or smokies.

CSPC +396689 $22-24

Grenache is best known in places like Spain and France, but many countries have a healthy history of their own with this incredible grape, and Australia too with their famous GSM blends of grenache, shiraz, and mourvèdre. Fairly light on the palate, about the same weight as a pinot, but with a deep and pure fruit expression and beautiful spices too. Try pairing with pork or charcuterie.

CSPC +849501 $43-46

A verdejo-sauvignon blanc blend from the Yecla region of Spain, it’s also a bit of an unusual combination. The nose is a stunner with fresh honey, a pleasing grassiness and bell pepper aroma, and a bright, lime-citrus tone. The palate is zesty, but also very refreshing with not too much presence from the sauvignon blanc, but making for a clean, quaffable wine – a little further from the norm. This would be excellent with freshwater fish or lighter fare.

CSPC +830335 $21-23

Sometimes referred to as “Baby Grange” (which of course is one of the premium, near $1,000 a bottle from Penfolds), Bin 389 is a stand-alone, stalwart of Australian wine. A blend of almost equal portions of cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, this is a wine that punches well above its weight and price, delivering opulence and character for any aficionado. A world-class wine from start to finish – and a great bottle to have nearby in the cellar.

CSPC +749925 $105-115

We don’t see tons of petit verdot in our market, but a disproportionate number of those we do see, seem to be from Australia, where this minor Bordeaux blending grape manages to shine brightest on its own.

Faber is hitting this one out of the park, letting dense, opulent floral characters lead the way for rather plummy, almost jammystyle fruits. Try this as an alternative to high end American zinfandel or a big malbec at your next barbecue.

CSPC +849500 $44-48

Hillside 2020 Gewürztraminer Naramata Bench, British Columbia

A long-time producer of gewürztraminer in BC, and one of my favourite examples, Hillside knows how to work with this variety. With a bare pinch of sweetness, the intense floral aromas easily come through showing off lime, quince, and yes – lychee too. Summer may be over, but a pretty little number like this will easily recall the longer days of summer. Perfect on its own, but will be a fine support to sushi, or dishes with a nice splash of fruit.

CSPC +505200 $21-23 November 2021 | Culinaire 39

E TC E TE R A . . .

Fresh Prep

We have to say, we’re very impressed with new to Alberta, Fresh Prep meal kit delivery service – it ticks all the boxes! It’s zero waste, and pre-portioned in reusable containers (no plastic or paper bags!), and supports local producers with optional add-ons from local businesses too. There are 10 recipes each week to choose from, and the meals are easy to cook and really delicious – and with very generous portions! Check out freshprep.ca for details they deliver to 11 cities across Alberta!

Macedonia: The Cookbook

Built on tradition with a rustic simplicity, Macedonian cuisine draws from its neighbours: Greece, Serbia, Kosovo, Albania, and Bulgaria.

From mezze (small plates) perfect for grazing, to salads, soup, meats, poultry, fish, side dishes, breads, sweets, and preserves, ingredients are readily available, and need no special equipment. Do try Roasted Red Pepper and Feta Dip (p 38), Tavche Gravche (Traditional White Bean Stew), and of course, Baklava (p231)!

Interlink Books, $35

Gradient Gradually Reducing Vodka Soda

Well here’s a thing – Calgary’s Gradient Vodka Soda has launched a new pack that contains six cans of flavoured vodka-based RTDs with decreasing levels of alcohol to suit your mood and the situation – mindful moderation! The highest strength is 8% ABV, and they reduce to 7%, 6%, 4%, 3%, and lastly 2% ABV. Gluten- and sugar-free, Gradient uses Western Canadian ingredients in their Raspberry Lemon, Lime, and Cucumber Mint flavours. $16-18 in stores and at gradientvodkasoda.com.

Just Soup RX Bars

We all want to know what’s in our food, particularly pre-packaged snacks, which often have unrecognizable ingredients, and now RX Bar have brought out a range of flavours of their “No B.S” protein bars, each featuring 5-8 ingredients listed on the front that serve a purpose, eg: egg whites for protein, dates to bind, and nuts for texture. We’re snacking on Blueberry, Banana Chocolate Walnut, and Coconut Chocolate, 52 g $2-3 at Real Canadian Superstore and Save On Foods.

40 Culinaire | November 2021

Zestspot Pack It Bags

There’s a new online Canadian kitchenware store and culinary hub, Zestspot, with cooking ideas, kitchen hacks, and recipes too, and we’re loving their offerings of premium cookware products and accessories. We’re particularly taken with these platinum silicone, reusable, Cuisipro Pack-It Bags for storing, cooking, marinating, sous-viding, and freezing your food. They come in a range of sizes from 200 mL-2000 mL, and they’re dishwashersafe too! $12-30, zestspot.com.

Our thoughts are turning to soup now it’s getting chilly, and it’s perfect timing for the two new ready-to-serve flavours from Toronto family soup makers, Just Soup. They’ve partnered with notable Canadian Chef and judge on Food Network Canada’s Fire Masters, Devan Rajkumar (aka Chef Dev), for their Bombay Tomato and Island Sweet Potato soups that come in glass jars in two sizes, and are made with fresh, natural, and locallysourced ingredients. 314 mL $3-4 and 580 mL $6 at Sobeys.

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O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with Nathalie Gosselin

BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM

A

t university, Nathalie Gosselin had no idea that the twists and turns in her life would lead her to where she is today. She studied business, marketing, and retail management, and towards the end of her degree, met a boyfriend who was an adventurer and wanted to move to Australia. She really liked him, but wanted to graduate first.

“So he waited for me for a year and a half,” she says, “and in 2003, we bought a camouflage-coloured troop carrier.”

They traveled round Australia in it for a year until they ran out of money and time, then returned to their hometown of Montreal, but didn't want to settle back there. They moved to Banff for a couple of years, before separating.

Gosselin started at the Banff Centre in 2004 as a sales coordinator for the conference department, then was promoted to conference services manager. “So that's when I started learning a bit more about wine, because I was working with the banquet team and the chef team,” she says. “I was drinking wine. I did really like it, but it was never something I thought I would ever do [as a career].”

In 2009, Gosselin was promoted again to manage all the conference services managers. “It was a turning year for me,” she says. “I did a one-week leadership development program called Building Personal Leadership. It was not about managing people, it was about learning about yourself and how to be a good leader.”

It changed her life; by the end of that week she had decided to open a wine store in five years: “The plan was to work with Banquet a little bit more closely to get to know the industry. I went to the Okanagan again, and took wine courses.”

Gosselin started working part-time in a wine store in Cochrane, and took WSET courses, where she met her business partner. They opened Vine Styles in Kensington exactly a year later, in 2014, 42 Culinaire | November 2021

though towards the end of their five-year lease, things were changing, and she bought him out.

“We started the wine club in 2016, and we went from 80 people before COVID to 155 people now,” she says. “People were excited to get those four bottles a month.

They wanted to know what we had picked for them, and they're getting a great deal.”

“The way we organize the store makes people comfortable trying a new wine because it fits in a style that they're comfortable with; the style concept gives them that additional safety net - they don't need to know everything about the grape or about the winemaking technique,” Gosselin continues. “It’s not just a wine store, it’s a community.

During COVID, people had opportunity to get great wines at crazy deals, but they still wanted to come to us because they wanted to make sure that we were continuing that relationship. And for me, that's what community is.”

So what bottle is Gosselin saving for a special occasion?

“I love champagne, and when I met my partner, one of the first things he said was, “I don't really like sparkling wine.” And I thought, ‘can I actually do this?’ And then I realized it means every time we open champagne, I get most of it.” she laughs.

Day-to-day, Gosselin admits that she doesn’t drink much champagne, but one of the first bottles that her partner really loved was Oeil de Perdrix (which, because of the colour, means ‘eye of the partridge’), from Jean Vesselle.

“We fell in love because of wine and our passion for it, and he proposed a couple of months ago with Oeil de Perdrix,” Gosselin continues. “This is their step up, their Grand Cru 2009. I just love everything about this producer, and the love and passion that comes from them. Passion is such a recurring theme in my life, and it felt so appropriate that I found the vintage that changed my life. We're going to be opening it for our wedding next summer with our family and friends. Obviously we might need more than one bottle!”

calgary november

24

2021

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