The Mighty Pomelo

BY MORRIS LEMIRE

In Western cultures, the pomelo is a bit like the odd one out of the citrus family. It’s only in Southeast Asia that it is made to feel at home – well, because it is home. In some ways, it’s a wonder that the citrus industry even bothers to market it in places like Canada. But thankfully it is here. I urge you to discover just how wonderful this big beauty is.

The Latin name for pomelo is the rather appropriate, Citrus maximus, the giant of the citrus world. Some varieties are as big as a soccer ball. Its size makes it just a little harder to ship, package, and price. Do you sell it by weight, or as a unit? If you sell it by weight, the consumer is sure to ask, how much did I pay for the peel? Because 30 percent of the total weight, or 50 percent by volume, is peel, but you can use the zest for marmalade and shrubs. To better understand the pomelo, we have to meet it on its own terms. The pomelo is not a grapefruit! The grapefruit is a hybrid off-spring of a sweet orange and the pomelo. If we compare it to a grapefruit, you risk missing its own distinct flavour, subtle, floral, and its own unique physical features. More importantly we might miss what it brings to the kitchen and the cocktail bar. Try it in a next level Pomelo Greyhound! The best way to start is to just dive in – buy one and eat it. Peeling this large citrus requires a knife and therefore an adult in attendance. It’s fun and if you have kids around, they love the process. It’s large size and thick rind amuses the kids, and the less bitter, sweeter fruit is a revelation. It has a firm texture that makes it easy to eat with your fingers; you won’t have juice running out all over the place. This is also why pomelo works so well in a salad, or on a fruit plate. Variations of the recipe below, can be found throughout Southeast Asia, which isn’t surprising, because what grows together gets cooked together. Not fussy about shrimp? Go up-market with crab. Pork and chicken also work well. Like home cooking everywhere, the idea is versatility, and the results, attractive and very tasty.

Pomelo & Shrimp Salad

Serves 4

1 pomelo, about 3 or 4 wedges per plate (in summer, you can use grapefruit) 500 g shrimp, or about 10 medium shrimp per plate (or use chicken)

1. Slice the top 2 cm off the pomelo, then score the rind about 1 cm deep, top to bottom into 8 strips. Peel off strips, banana style. Pull the ball apart into halves and separate into individual wedges. 2. Using a paring knife, slit open the wedges, cutting along the top seam. Carefully pull away the membrane. Break the wedges into bite size pieces, place in a bowl, keep cool. 3. If frozen, thaw and peel shrimp, rinse and store in fridge.

Dressing

1 hot red Thai pepper, fine diced *Note: wear rubber gloves when cutting 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 4 tsp (20 mL) light soy sauce 1 lime, juiced 4 tsp (20 mL) Thai fish sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil 2 tsp (10 mL) sugar (optional)

Combine ½ tsp hot pepper (or more if preferred), garlic, soya sauce, the juice of half a lime, fish sauce, sesame oil, and sugar, if using. Set aside.

Sauce

4 tsp (20 mL) light soy sauce 4 tsp (20 mL) Thai fish sauce 1 lime, juiced 2 tsp (10 mL) sugar (optional)

Combine soy sauce, fish sauce, 1 Tbs (15 mL) lime juice, and sugar if using.

Salad

1 cup (30 g) mint, cut into thin slices 2 cups of salad greens, chopped, loosely packed (cilantro or mild lettuce) 1 medium carrot, julienned ½ cup cucumber, sliced thin 1 red or yellow pepper, julienned 4 tsp (20 mL) sesame oil 1 shallot, finely diced 30 g peanuts or cashews, roasted 1. Add mint to a salad bowl. Add in salad greens, carrot, cucumber, and peppers. 2. Heat 4 tsp (20 mL) sesame oil in a wok to medium. Quickly sauté the shallots until they turn bright green. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. 3. Turn the heat to medium high, and using tongs add shrimp. Cook on one side for about one minute and turn them over for another minute. 4. Add in the sauce, toss well, when the sauce just sizzles, quickly remove the shrimp and place in a bowl. 5. Add the salad dressing to the greens and toss well. 6. Place the cool pomelo pieces on the plates and cover with the dressed salad greens. Place the warm shrimp on top of the greens, and garnish with nuts.

Morris Lemire lives in Edmonton where he spends the summer gardening and winter skiing. He likes winter, in part, because citrus is plentiful. He uses citrus in everything from marmalade to preserved lemons, cocktails to meringues.

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