Making The Case

MAKING THE CASE For Californian Wine

By TOM FIRTH

Since the “Judgement of Paris” in 1976, where in a famous blind tasting (in Paris!), wine from the newfangled wine region of California outperformed the wines of Bordeaux – long held as the paragon of quality wine around the world, California has been continuing to produce stellar wine after stellar wine.

There are many reasons why California can manage this, a near perfect climate for winemaking, that can-do American dream, access to capital. There’s that old joke you’ve likely heard? …..How do you make a small fortune in the Napa Valley? Take a large fortune and start a winery! This month, it’s all about California’s wine with plenty of Napa cabernets, Sonoma zinfandels, and much more worth trying and bringing to the table!

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Robert Biale 2019 “Party Line” Zinfandel North Coast, California

One of the masters of zinfandel, Robert Biale knows how to bring out the best from this grape. For those old enough to remember a “party line” - an open phone line, which wasn’t very private. The Biales provided wine during prohibition, often over these lines using some select code words. Party Line is all about brambly fruit, loads of spices, a bit of jamminess and also about being delicious. A fine match for pork or spicier dishes with a little bit of fat. CSPC +810883 $35-39

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine, email tom@culinairemagazine.ca.

Merryvale 2018 Silhouette Chardonnay Napa Valley, California

Drinking this chardonnay was a pretty spectacular way to start a day. After that revelation, there isn’t too much else to say about it. So many ripe and balanced fruits of nectarines, peaches, and tropical fruits, but also spicy and creamy notes too. My notes also called this wine sexy and sassy, but what it really is, is a fine, world-class chardonnay for a special occasion. CSPC +711024 $95-110

Sequoia Grove 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

Such a remarkable, and quality-driven expression of cabernet sauvignon. Deep cherry and cassis fruits, with graphite, cola, spice, and cedar/capsicum aromas, but the list doesn’t stop there – it goes on like this! Firm tannins, but not too heavy – perhaps in small part due to 20 months in barrel, with zippy acids and an almost silken texture on the palate. Big and chewy, this is the right sort of wine for a big, beef-centric meal. CSPC +740382 $62-65

Racines 2017 Santa Rita Hills Cuvée Pinot Noir, California

It can be rather hard to find out a lot of information about the winemaking philosophy at Racines, but what becomes apparent every step of the way is that this is a place where no decisions are made lightly, and every decision seems to be focused around “what will make the best wine”. Deep and complex with a fine, pure expression of the grape – it’s almost staggering. Long story short, if you are a fan of great pinot, this should be on your radar. CSPC +847297 $85-90

Seghesio 2019 Zinfandel, Sonoma California

For a long time, one of my favourite wineries in California, owned by some wonderful people, who among other things, loved zinfandel. The original family sold it a few years back, but the quality never suffered – which is awesome! Rather floral for a zinfandel with deep plummy notes, wild berry fruits, and a zesty acid to tie it all together. Big, seriously good zin for the enthusiast! CSPC +710681 $30-32

Cakebread Cellars 2019 Chardonnay Napa Valley, California

A clean, stylish, and very modern style of chardonnay from the Napa Valley with plenty of room on both the nose and palate for classic fruits and the right amount of those bready, yeasty, and oak characters. The best thing about this chardonnay is that it is so easy to start thinking about pairing at the table (grilled veggies or a roast bird comes to mind) or even just enjoying a fine bottle of chardonnay. CSPC +1070336 $68-72

Wente 2020 “Louis Mel” Sauvignon Blanc, Livermore Valley, California

Sauvignon blanc – especially outside of New Zealand examples - is criminally underrated. Wente, well known to many Albertans, is serving up a bright and crisp sauvignon blanc with zesty citrus notes, a bit of tropical fruits and peach, but also clean zippy acids with none of that cut grass or gooseberry. A great wine that is priced right for a weeknight, and should rock some lighter seafoods or grilled poultry. CSPC +47993 $18-20

Dancing Crow Vineyards 2018 Zinfandel Lake Country, California

I love California zinfandel, it’s big and brassy, completely unapologetic, and delivers exactly what it promises. From California’s Lake Country comes this juicy, brambly zin, packed with all those wild fruits, spice, and a little blueberry too. On the palate, chewy tannins and a mild chocolate note towards the finish should make this a hit with grilled meats, a charcuterie board, or my favourite with zinfandel – pepperoni pizza. CSPC +806473 $32-34

Lapis Luna 2018 Pinot Noir, North Coast California

A fresh and very modern take on pinot noir sure to impress, but also make for a fine quaffer in the evening. Plusher, riper fruits leaning towards blackberry over cherry, and on the palate it’s also a little bit of a fruit bomb with good juiciness, but also spice, earthy notes, and some chewy tannins too. Would be a real stunner with duck confit, but also grilled sausage, smoked meats, or a nice cheese plate. A well-made versatile wine for the table. CSPC +834062 $20-22

Starmont Vineyards 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, California

A blend of vineyard sites from Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino, this is the sort of cabernet sauvignon that is impeccably balanced showing off all the very best from the variety. Clean and classic, with cocoa, herb, spice, good berry fruits, and still, somehow, big but richly smoothed tannins. In a good spot right now for drinking, it’s also going to be in a fine place with a few more years in the cellar – around 20252028, plan on some nice steaks too. CSPC +333336 $50-55

St. Francis 2018 Old Vine Zinfandel Sonoma County, California

Zinfandel is having a bit of a recalibration. Almost long-gone are those plush, over the top alcohol levels, fruit bomb-esque zins, and in their place are these almost restrained big reds. Significant oak characters hold back fruits that are a little jammy, but still present is a spicy, earthy core and clean, brambly fruits. Made with 50-100 year old vines, for pizza (my favourite match), or when you are firing up the grill for some nice burgers or flank steaks. CSPC +421974 $32-35

Stag’s Leap 2017 Hands of Time Red Blend, Napa Valley, California

A blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot with about ten percent of cabernet franc and a smidge of petit verdot and petit syrah, this wine shows why Napa is a world-class region. Each variety is showing its best, with black fruits, spice box, and dark chocolate and bright, flowery characters. On the palate rich and exceptionally smooth with silky tannins, a big mid-palate and a long, lingering finish. Try pairing with the best burger you can manage. CSPC +741942 $55-57

Bonny Doon 2019 Le Cigare Volant Central Coast, California

A blend of grenache, cinsault, and syrah, this is an American expression of France’s Châteauneuf du Pape, (which has an ordinance prohibiting flying saucers from landing in the vineyards - luck favours the prepared). The 2019 edition has dropped the traditional mourvèdre and bumped up the cinsault for a zesty and spicy wine with plumper, blueberry fruits and a prominent wild berry expression. Match with bigger beef dishes, rich stews, or charcuterie. CSPC +838054 $25-29