Not Partaking?

Not Partaking? A real alternative – finally.

BY TOM FIRTH

For the longest time, if someone chose to abstain from drinking, their options were basically coffee, soda, or water. Most non-alcoholic beers were so thin or flavourless they were pretty well insipid, while sparkling apple juice (remember that stuff? – it’s still around!) was only for the kids to feel like the grownups, and let’s be honest, a cup of coffee in the evening isn’t always a good idea.

But in the last few years, there has been a renaissance of sorts when it’s come to non-alcoholic wines, beers, and yes - spirits. The reasons why this day has come are varied, and there isn’t a whole lot of data identifying what has really happened. But the result is the same, more people are looking for options whether they choose to abstain from alcohol, have a medical or cultural reason to avoid alcohol, or just prefer to not have it. All valid reasons, but finally, the options are pretty damn good.

Shaun Johnson, the Curation Manager of Calgary’s 5 Vines stores, sees nonalcoholic products continuing to trend upwards over the next couple of years. “It is a category which really hasn't seen a lot of interest from producers until now. With so many craft breweries and distilleries constantly vying for shelf space, I am expecting a deluge of options to flood the market.”

According to Edmonton’s Aligra Wine & Spirits Co-owner, Grant Schneider, the trend is being partially driven by the newfound interest in mocktail culture. A cautionary note Schneider shares is that, “customers complain that many non-alcoholic beers have very little resemblance to alcoholic beers made by the same company.” This is a sentiment echoed by Johnson as well, “…is it going to taste like a real beer or a bitter, carbonated, hop-water which they will have to smile and swallow because they're at the in-laws for dinner?”

Ultimately, these products have to pass the “smell” or taste test. They have to stand up to traditional versions, and many non-alcoholic spirits veer close to botanically infused water, while in the case of wines and beers, the missing alcohol does lose some of the body or mouthfeel component of the beverage. Fans of lighter, “American-style” beers might not have noticed the missing body in old-school non-alcoholic beer, but these days, most want a craftier, more flavourful one – alcohol or not.

So buyer beware, but these days, there is a valid, and often tasty alternative for traditional alcoholic beverages that won’t leave you feeling like you are sitting at the kid’s table.

Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling Rosé, Germany

Served in a very easy to manage 250 mL size can – perfect for a back country hike or single serving, this is part of the new reality of alcohol-free wines – quality driven and tasty. A very light, very pale rose with a fine effervescence and breezy, soft fruits on the nose, the palate is fairly sweet (but not saccharine) with good flavours and well balanced. You don’t even miss the alcohol. Serve nice and chilled, and enjoy! CSPC +858601 $5-6 (250 mL)

Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling Riesling, Germany

I was a little nervous tasting this, since I love good riesling, and would be sorely disappointed if this was an abomination, but it manages to hold on tight to the crisp mineral characters, tart apple and citrus fruits and a zesty acid to tie it all together. A touch on the sweet side, but quaffable and a fine alternative for the abstainer or designated driver. CSPC +858591 $5-6 (250 mL)

A real alternative – finally.

Benjamin Bridge Piquette Zero Nova Scotia

Rather than an alcohol-free wine or beverage, this is a wine-style drink instead, so it was never a wine or beer that had something “missing” from the norm. One could think of this as an alcohol-free punch or even an alternative to soda. Based around mineral water with various flavourings (including grape extracts), I’d be more likely to seek this out as an alternative to a soda than a wine. Piquette almost demands to be enjoyed on a scorching hot day with an ice cube or two. CSPC +857955 $5-6 (250 mL)

Sovi Sparkling Rosé, United States

A de-alcoholised rosé wine made from California tempranillo grapes, this is also rather dark (for rosé) in the glass. Deeply laden with tart cherry and orange flavours, it’s evoking more of that Spanish style rosé than we usually see. The alcohol might leave a little vacancy on the palate, but there is a fairly good finish here and a good mouthfeel. Serve chilled and enjoy on one of those hot days. CSPC +869075 $5-6 (250 mL)

Fahr Alkoholfrie, Alberta

Justifiably, Fahr is appreciated for their stunning, expertly-crafted beers, so I was a little surprised – but not too much when they launched an alcohol-free beer. The world definitely needs more options for the non-drinkers. Damn good and manages to smell like “real” beer with a full flavoured beer character on the palate. A fine alternative if you are abstaining. CSPC +835005 $13-15 (6-pack cans)

Silver Swallow Kombucha Blanc Canada

People just love the healthy aspects of kombucha, and this was something a little different to try under the sun. With about 0.5 percent alcohol, it’s considered an alcohol-free sparkler, but what really makes this shine is the inclusion of white tea elements. Long story short, it’s quite tasty, quite dry, and should be a unique alternative for fans of iced tea on those hot days. $19-22 on most shelves

CR*FT Easy Going Pale Ale, Alberta

Pale ales are my go-to for an end of day or patio beer, so I’m holding this to a high standard. Love the nose with a good amount of fruit and subtle hoppiness, crisp and citrusy on the palate with a great floral character, and a lighter body. Still a solid option, but lacking some of the oomph of a traditional beer. CSPC +852409 $13-15 (4-pack cans)

Sir. James 101 Bitter Aperitif Netherlands

A fresh and lively take on a non-alcoholic Spritz, with loads of bitter orange, and a rock-solid balance of infusions and herbal notes. Nicely carbonated, pleasing bitterness, and really, just darn good. A rare non-alcoholic expression where the lack of alcohol isn’t even noticed. A crushable non-tipple for a nice hot day. CSPC +861269 $5-6 (250 mL)

Sir. James 101 Gin Tonic Flavour Netherlands

To be blunt, it’s hard to make a nonalcoholic gin without skirting juniper water territory, but this pre-mixed “cocktail” from Sir. James does this one right. Crisp, citrus-driven and with the right amounts of juniper and tonic notes to tie it all together. A little ice, maybe a slice of lime, a hot day, and you are set. CSPC +861268 $5-6 (250 mL)