Not Partaking? A BY TOM FIRTH
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or the longest time, if someone chose to abstain from drinking, their options were basically coffee, soda, or water. Most non-alcoholic beers were so thin or flavourless they were pretty well insipid, while sparkling apple juice (remember that stuff? – it’s still around!) was only for the kids to feel like the grownups, and let’s be honest, a cup of coffee in the evening isn’t always a good idea. But in the last few years, there has been a renaissance of sorts when it’s come to non-alcoholic wines, beers, and yes spirits. The reasons why this day has come are varied, and there isn’t a whole lot of data identifying what has really happened. But the result is the same, more people are looking for options whether they choose to abstain from alcohol, have a medical or cultural reason to avoid alcohol, or just prefer to not have it. All valid reasons, but finally, the options are pretty damn good. Shaun Johnson, the Curation Manager of Calgary’s 5 Vines stores, sees nonalcoholic products continuing to trend upwards over the next couple of years. “It is a category which really hasn't seen a lot of interest from producers until now. With so many craft breweries and 30 Culinaire | June 2022
distilleries constantly vying for shelf space, I am expecting a deluge of options to flood the market.” According to Edmonton’s Aligra Wine & Spirits Co-owner, Grant Schneider, the trend is being partially driven by the newfound interest in mocktail culture. A cautionary note Schneider shares is that, “customers complain that many non-alcoholic beers have very little resemblance to alcoholic beers made by the same company.” This is a sentiment echoed by Johnson as well, “…is it going to taste like a real beer or a bitter, carbonated, hop-water which they will have to smile and swallow because they're at the in-laws for dinner?” Ultimately, these products have to pass the “smell” or taste test. They have to stand up to traditional versions, and many non-alcoholic spirits veer close to botanically infused water, while in the case of wines and beers, the missing alcohol does lose some of the body or mouthfeel component of the beverage. Fans of lighter, “American-style” beers might not have noticed the missing body in old-school non-alcoholic beer, but these days, most want a craftier, more flavourful one – alcohol or not. So buyer beware, but these days, there
is a valid, and often tasty alternative for traditional alcoholic beverages that won’t leave you feeling like you are sitting at the kid’s table. Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling Rosé, Germany Served in a very easy to manage 250 mL size can – perfect for a back country hike or single serving, this is part of the new reality of alcohol-free wines – quality driven and tasty. A very light, very pale rose with a fine effervescence and breezy, soft fruits on the nose, the palate is fairly sweet (but not saccharine) with good flavours and well balanced. You don’t even miss the alcohol. Serve nice and chilled, and enjoy! CSPC +858601 $5-6 (250 mL) Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling Riesling, Germany I was a little nervous tasting this, since I love good riesling, and would be sorely disappointed if this was an abomination, but it manages to hold on tight to the crisp mineral characters, tart apple and citrus fruits and a zesty acid to tie it all together. A touch on the sweet side, but quaffable and a fine alternative for the abstainer or designated driver. CSPC +858591 $5-6 (250 mL)
