A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S J U N E 2 02 2
Non-Alcoholic Drinks | Durian | Summer Gins | Okanagan Chefs | Alberta Cider
A L B E RTA DI S T I L L E RS LIMITED
® of Alberta Distillers Limited Calgary, Canada
contents
Volume 11 / No. 2 / June 2022
departments 6
Salutes and Shout Outs
8
Chefs’ Tips and Tricks
8
22
News from Alberta’s culinary scene
A Taste of ‘Berta with your BC
34
Making the Case:
36
Etcetera...
38
Open That Bottle
Wines to Grill For… Part 1
What’s new? With Bruce Soley Wine Director of River Café
12
20
ON THE COVER It looks like summer, feels like summer… and this month it will be summer! So our thoughts turned to gin (see page 32), with plenty of ice, a splash of tonic and a little citrus hit. Thanks very much to photographer Dong Kim, for turning our thoughts into reality and perfectly capturing our vision!
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Noble Premium puts Bison Back on the Table
…the market is growing by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth
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24
Beef on a Budget
Summer grilling and entertainment without the price tag by Mallory Frayn
Step by Step: Fancy French Tiny Cakes
Madeleines and financiers by Renée Kohlman
How the World’s Smelliest Fruit Wafted its way onto Alberta’s Sweet Scene
Loved by some, tolerated by others, and feared by many, durian is arguably the world’s smelliest fruit. by Jade Prévost-Manuel
The Rising Tide of Craft Cider in Alberta
Is our province in the early stages of a cider boom? by Lisa Lagace
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22
Nothing Generic About This Fish
There’s more to cod than fish & chips! by Natalie Findlay
27 30 32
Water in Brewing
…it runs deeper than you think by David Nuttall
Not Partaking?
A real alternative – finally by Tom Firth
June Spirits
For whatever the weather! by Tom Firth and Linda Garson June 2022 | Culinaire 3
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
It’s letters like these from subscribers that make everything worthwhile:
Bouncing back
I
haven’t lived in Alberta all my life, but I’ve been here long enough to see the up- and down-beat cycles of growth and recession – and while it’s not an easy time for any of us in business, squeezed between rising prices and people trying to recoup their losses of the last two years, I’m constantly reminded of the reason I chose this province as my home - the people who call it their home. I’ve never known a place where people are so supportive. When asked what I do, the response so very often is “You go girl”! People here are genuinely pleased for you, they want you to succeed, and they want to help you get there. This has been much in evidence after our 10th anniversary issue last month.
I felt it wasn’t just myself that was proud we’ve survived ten years in publishing, but you were proud of, and for, us. And I thank you enormously for that. It’s not an easy path to tread; it’s demanding, and deadlines are always looming. We leave ourselves wide open to criticism if we’re not fastidious in our proofing, so we apologise that we got mixed up and mistakenly placed Uptown Jerky in Grand Prairie rather than Vulcan in our last issue. Cheers,
Linda Garson, Editor-in-Chief
Good Evening, I first found the magazine on a rack at BITE, the restaurant in Inglewood. Brought it home and was hooked. Not surprisingly, I learned that if I did not get to the rack early CULINAIRE was gone. We chose to subscribe to CULINAIRE because we did not want to miss an issue. Thank you for giving us the prompts to check out your curated list of wines, recipes and restaurants. AND Congratulations on creating, so consistently, a stellar publication about all things related to fine dining. The best to you...JR Hi Linda, Thank you for April’s copy. Found a great recipe for gyro’s and am going to get my husband the air fryer cookbook recommended. Always finds gems in the magazine! Thanks again, SS
Smell that summertime sizzle!
Our stores are stocked daily with farm-raised Piedmontese beef, Alberta pork, veal, and bison. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café.
italiancentre.ca
EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK
Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Sales, Southern Alberta Denice Hansen 403-828-0226 denice@culinairemagazine.ca Sales, Northern Alberta James Jarvis 780-231-7511 james@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Mallory Frayn Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Lisa Lagace, David Nuttall Jade Prévost-Manuel, Keane Straub
To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.
Our contributors Lisa Lagace
Lisa Lagace is a Toronto-based journalist covering the travel and entertainment industry. An obsession with finding the best cultural experiences a city has to offer led to a career writing about it for a living. Her words have been featured in NPR, Marie Claire, USA Today, Time Out New York and more. Keep up with her socials @lisalagace.
David Nuttall
David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He achieved his Beer Judge Certification in 2012, and is the head judge for Calgary International Beerfest, as well as judging the Alberta Beverage Awards and Alberta Beer Awards. He has appeared on radio, television, and in the movie Aleberta: Our Beer History. He is also a freelance writer for print and online, speaker, and has run Brew Ed beer courses since 2014. Follow him @abfbrewed.
Jade Prévost-Manuel
Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca
Journalist Jade PrévostManuel’s work has appeared in Canadian Geographic Travel, Outpost Magazine, BESIDE Magazine, and CBC News, and she was an associate producer for their current affairs programme, Marketplace. She loves nothing better than sampling dishes and treats from around the world, conventional or strange, and she’s an avid scuba diver - when she’s not telling stories on land, you can find her exploring life below the ocean’s surface.
SHOP. EAT. LOCAL. BE.VOCALLY.LOCAL
Fresh and Local Market + Kitchens is Calgary’s destination for great food. Experience Calgary’s most innovative chefs and food artisans, browse through local producers, and take some local produce home.
Local just tastes better!
COME TOGETHER. ENJOY LOCAL. Summer days accelerate the growth of our favourite summer Alberta vegetables like baby carrots, peas and cauliflower. The warmth cultivates BC fruit like apricots, cherries, peaches, pears, nectarines and apples. Our farmers market supports over 250 local producers, food artisans and culinary chefs. Finding a bright new food idea, delicous food festivals, and local products happens all summer long.
JUNE 23 - 26
Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.
Calgary’s Local Food HUB in Avenida Village 426, 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE Thursday – Saturday 11a-8p; Sundays 11a-5p
Shop online at www.FreshAndLocal.ca
SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S
Flowers and drinks are becoming popular in Calgary! Anna Ecal and Jaline Qureshi have opened Besties Floral Café, a micro café in Crescent Heights, at 920 Centre Street N, serving Blume lattes and Ritual Doughnuts. Gifting for kids and adults is top of mind here, and they share the space with Cherry Tree Lane Toys. There’s a grab and go flower wall, fresh and dried arrangements, and a lovely selection of food and drink-related gifts, online too. They also offer private and open workshops for six people max. 10-6 pm, closed Mondays. Florist Raina Moon has been wanting to open a Korean café for six years, and now her dream is a reality. And Some Flower Café is at 540 7 Avenue NW, in Sunnyside, serving all-day brunch of French toast and waffles, with sparkling soda drinks, (try lavender-ade and rose-ade!) and house-made Croffles and Croffins to eat in or take home. Moon uses only premium Korean, organic, washed leaf green tea, and the thought and care of her beautiful flowers wrapped in Korean paper is evident. Seven days, 9 am-close. Canmore’s new restaurant, EpiCanmore (EpiC), is from the Rocky Bean Co. and Crepes N Go food truck folks. Specializing in handcrafted sourdough breads and sweet and savoury crepes using organic, locally grown, milled grains and ancient methods of fermentation, they also make sandwiches and bake pastries throughout the day, all washed down with ethically sourced and locally roasted coffee. There are a few tables and bar seats inside, with mountain views from two outdoor picnic tables. 102 Boulder Crescent from 7:30 am, closed Sunday-Monday. From the owners of Edmonton’s The Common and 9910, along with head chef 6 Culinaire | June 2022
Winnie Tsing Chen, Fu's Repair Shop is a fun, Asian-inspired restaurant now open in the ex-Prairie Fish and Chips space at 9902 109 Street. Come for dumplings, dim sum brunch, and Chen’s dad’s beef noodle bowl (all priced to end with .88), boozy bubble tea and cocktails, with DJs every Friday and Saturday. Walk-ins only, Thursday-Saturday, 5 pm-late and Sunday brunch. Talking of bubble tea, Calgary has a new Chatime (its tenth!) franchise from Taiwan at 8560 8A Avenue SW, in West Springs. With a vast drinks menu, you’ll be spoiled for choice in this fun and colourful café. Partners Genevieve and Sarah make specialty signature milk teas, juice drinks with coconut jelly and tapioca pearls, sparkling fruit drinks, brown sugar pearl drinks, smoothies, slushies, and virgin mojitos. With 24-hour marinated popcorn chicken, three types of fries (and really good house-made spicy mayo) a few stools and plenty of power points, recharge yourself and your electronics seven days, lunch and dinner. You’ll also be spoiled for choice at Edmonton’s Ancaron Macarons, with 40-50 flavours of Korean-style “fat macarons” with their giant fillings! At only $2 each or six for $10, they can be picked up Thursday-Saturday, 12-5 pm at 10336 82 Avenue NW, or ordered for one of their scheduled deliveries to Red Deer, Airdrie, Calgary, and St. Paul. Thomas Dahlgren, of Calgary’s Von Der Fels, has opened Missy’s This That at 348A 14 Avenue SW, an understated bar with a laid-back atmosphere and loud music. Come for a casual evening of original or traditional cocktails, and beer or wine from the “tickle trunk” case, along with snacks of charcuterie, Canadian cheeses, and Sidewalk Citizen key-lime pie. Thursday-Sunday, 5 pm to 1 am.
Edmonton’s Cheese Factory restaurant space, at 8943 82 Avenue, is now home to Mario’s Poutine & Pizzeria, who are serving up Quebec poutine with home-cut fries and cheddar cheese curds from the Cheese Factory, as well as delicious pizza, garlic fingers, sandwiches, and panini. Seven days from 11 am. Calgary’s Pho Dau Bo has been popular for all its 14 years, and now Sarah and Long Thai have opened Mot To, a bright and fresh restaurant – just like the food! The menu is authentic but modern, with very creative takes on Vietnamese classics, like the inspired, elevated salad rolls with crunchy pastry inside, the genius Pho Grilled Cheese (made with their famous 16-hour broth), and soft-shell crab banh mi. And we applaud two friers – one for gluten-free. Open lunch and dinner, and for private events, at 1609 Centre Street N, closed Mondays-Tuesdays. The talented team at Craft Beer Market have opened another winner. Central Taps + Food is a cool, modern restaurant bar at The District in Beltline, with crushable cocktails, beer - draft and cans - $5 daily shots, and zero proof drinks, along with a curated menu from Chef Mike Pigot that fit all sizes, whatever you’re in the mood for, with a lot of shareable appies, handhelds, salads bowls, and pizzas. We love the wall of speakers and the photos of “misfits” all eating, (think Amy Winehouse meets Anthony Bourdain) - food and music do bring people together! 224 12 Avenue SW, 11 am-close seven days.
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Many successful restaurants and markets are opening additional locations, and while we can’t fit in everyone, here’s a brief roundup: Along the hallway is 33 Acres Brewing, small batch brewers from Vancouver. A micro-brewery with 24 taps (six are brewed here), six cocktail options, and an all-natural wine list, they also offer small snacks, such as a choose your own cheeseboard, and access to Central Taps menu – just order from the QR code and Central Taps will bring it over! There’s a direct-service patio on 11 Avenue SW with a wood-burning fire too. Seven days from 11 am. Next door is Kama, Chef Kenny Kaechele’s gorgeous new restaurant (Amanda Hamilton did such a great job!). Meaning desire…wish…wanting… it’s aptly named, as when you read the menu, each dish makes you want it – and then you read the next one and want that too! Kaechele’s “Workshop” is the only restaurant in Canada to make OpenTable’s Top 100 restaurants in Canada five years in a row, and we suspect Kama might just be the second to achieve it. The menu is influenced by the fresh, robust flavours of the Mediterranean, North Africa, and Middle East, with six different house-made breads; your tapas will arrive mezze-style, so bring a crowd! There’s a separate lunch menu with most dishes under $25, a happy hour from 2-5 pm with 3 tapas for $20, and the BEST salted tahini chocolate chip cookies and Turkish Coffee Affogato for dessert. Tuesday-Friday 11-11, weekends from 5 pm, closed Monday.
A great addition to Edmonton’s coffee scene, PACT Coffee is a collaboration with Baked Brands GF vegan donuts, and is now open at 10370 82 Avenue. Their talented baristas serve quality cortados, lattes, and mocha, espresso-based drinks, with oat, cashew, and soy milk options too. Seven days 8-8 pm Calgary’s newest bar, Artist Lounge, is open in the Ruberto Ostberg Gallery, at 2108 18 Street NW, in Capitol Hill. Anna Ostberg expanded the gallery a few years ago and wanted to add another component for a relaxed atmosphere and a safe space to eat, drink, and work. Chef Trent Bochek’s (ex-4th Spot) excellent tapas menu is big on flavour, with dishes inspired by each month’s featured artist, and Jimmy Nguyen's bar menu includes his creative cocktails - all with wonderful stories - as well as natural wines, beers from five local breweries, and low- or no alcohol drinks. Thursday-Saturday 5 pm-close. And more art gallery food! Now you can get take-out breakfast and lunch of sandwiches, stews, sweets, Cree coffee and more from Pei Pei Chei Ow at Edmonton’s Whiskeyjack Art House, an Indigenous gallery and boutique at 11051 97 Street. Wednesday-Friday 7:30 am till sold out.
8 In Calgary: In addition to their Kensington location, Indie counterculture is now open in West Springs for lunch and dinner every day at 8560 8A Avenue SW. As well as their Heritage Plaza location, Toscana Italian Grill is open in Mahogany at 1370, 7 Mahogany Plaza SE. Lunch and dinner every day. Already in Royal Oak Park and the Beltline, Paros Real Greek are also new in Mahogany at 1810 80 Mahogany Road SE. Lunch and dinner, closed Mondays. Holy Grill has opened its fourth location at 1020, 19369 Sheriff King Street SW, in Silverado and it has a drive-thru! Seven days, breakfast, lunch, dinner until 7 or 8 pm. With two very popular locations in Saskatoon, Wow Pizza has opened at 221, 4307 130 Avenue SE. Seven days, 11 am-late. In Edmonton: As well as Garneau, High Dough is now open in Strathcona at 7341 104 Street from 3-10 pm, closed Monday-Tuesday. Woodshed Burgers has a fourth location as well as Cameron Heights, Ellerslie, and 124 Street, at 2909 113 Avenue NW in Rundle Park. There’s a second Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market with 40+ vendors at the Currents of Windermere. Thursdays 4-7 pm until September 29. Hoang Long has opened their third location, Hoang Long 888, weekdays from 10 am at 9892 Jasper Avenue. June 2022 | Culinaire 7
C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS
A Taste of ‘Berta with your BC W BY KEANE STRAUB
e’re always looking for ways to connect you to local flavour and talent, but let’s face it: it’s been a while since many of us have been on an adventure. So, for this month’s Chefs’ Tips we’re heading west to wine country, and all the flavours found there.
Having experienced the Rocky Mountains by foraging, camping, and working at the Fairmont Banff Springs, Chef Phil Tees says that Alberta will always have a special place in his heart. He moved to BC to experience something different, and certainly found that at Liquidity Winery in Okanagan Falls, where his job involved creating dishes for specific wines, instead of creating dishes and trying to pair them with wine. “It allowed us to highlight different flavour profiles in the wines and elevate them for our guests,” Tees explains. The recipe Tees shares is a nod to summer, full of fresh flavours often found at local farms, and in Tees’ yard. “I have a peach tree in my yard, something I've always dreamed of but never thought would happen.” But, if you can’t grow it, Tees says there’s a good chance you can find it at your farmer’s market: “Most of them have representation from BC farms.” Chef Tees has recently taken a position as Executive Chef at 1909 Restaurant in the Tofino Resort + Marina. 8 Culinaire | June 2022
The Okanagan vineyards and breweries mentioned here boast restaurants, cafes, bistros, and even BBQ joints, and while they all showcase the fresh produce from the region on their menus, there is one other element they all have in common: they all boast chefs who got their start right here in Alberta.
Ajo Blanco with Apple, Snap Pea, and Cucumber Salad Serves 4
Ajo Blanco
1 apple (or peach) 2 garlic cloves 2 cucumbers, peeled 2.5 cm ginger, peeled 1½ cups almonds 1 Tbs sumac 2 Tbs (30 mL) elderflower cordial 2 Tbs (30 mL) apple cider vinegar ¼ tsp cayenne pepper 3 cups (720 mL) water To Taste salt and pepper
Salad
20 snap peas 1 cucumber 1 apple, quartered (or peach) ¼ cup (60 mL) apple cider vinegar ¼ cup (60 mL) canola oil To Taste salt and pepper 12 mint leaves
1. Place all the Ajo Blanco soup ingredients in a mixer such as a Vitamix, and blitz on high speed for a few minutes until smooth. 2. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and adjust seasoning with salt or pepper. Depending on the size of your mixer, you might have to do this in batches. TIP: To allow the flavours to infuse and really come together, do this a day beforehand. 3. For the salad, clean, trim and cut the snap peas in half. 4. Slice the cucumber in half lengthwise and cut in an angle, rotating the cucumber ¼ turn before every cut to create misshaped pieces. 5. Slice the apple thinly. Mix all the ingredients in a bowl and combine with the apple cider vinegar, canola oil, salt, and pepper. 6. Cover one side of your bowl with the salad, top with the freshly picked mint leaves and pour the soup on the opposite side.
Currently the chef at The Bistro at Hillside Winery in Penticton, BC, Evan Robertson started his career attending culinary school in Edmonton and Calgary, where he learned the power of developing connections with local producers. “Going out to the farms and fields taught me to appreciate where my food is coming from and the hard work a lot of the producers are doing behind the scenes.” It’s a practice that you can develop, too, whether you’re at the farmer’s market, or stopping at a roadside produce stand in BC. “You will find amazing things start happening when you put the effort into chatting with people on a personal level,” says Robertson. The Bistro’s focus is on sharable dishes inspired by the seasons of the Okanagan. So, when it comes to choosing his favourite BC ingredient, Robertson says it all depends on the time of year – from cherries and apricots in June, to fresh seafood throughout the summer. For a dish that is a true blend of Alberta and BC, try this one for Pork Belly and Scallops.
The Bistro at Hillside Winery Pork Belly and Scallops Serves 4-6
Truffle Honey
(recipe can be halved) 2 Tbs (30 mL) garlic puree 2 Tbs red onion, chopped 1½ tsp canola oil 1½ cups (360 mL) honey 1/3 cup + 4 tsp (100 mL) white wine vinegar ¼ tsp salt A few drops truffle oil 1. Sauté garlic puree and red onion in oil until onions have softened. Low and slow; don’t add colour to the onions. 2. Add honey, white wine vinegar, and salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook until the vinegar smell has turned sweet. 3. Take off heat and season with a few drops of truffle oil, then blend on low speed until smooth. Pass through a sieve.
Pork Belly
900 g–1 Kg pork belly, rind/skin removed 2 Tbs salt ½ cup (120 mL) white vinegar 2½ Tbs smoked paprika 1½ Tbs cayenne pepper 1½ tsp garlic powder 1½ tsp fresh oregano 1 tsp crushed pepper Oil for sautéing 225 g carrots, chopped 450 g onions, chopped 225 g celery, chopped ½ bottle (375 mL) red wine ½ bunch fresh parsley 2-3 sprigs fresh thyme Scallops to serve 1. Mix salt, vinegar, paprika, cayenne, garlic, oregano, and pepper together and rub all over the pork belly. Place in your fridge overnight (6-24 hours). 2. Sear both sides in a hot pan. Place into an oven-safe roasting pan. 3. Sauté carrots, onions, and celery until brown and then pour red wine, parsley,
and thyme over the vegetables. Bring to a boil. 4. Pour vegetables and wine over the pork belly. If the belly is not fully submerged add more wine until it is covered. 5. Cover pan and braise in your oven at 200º F for 8-10 hours… do this while you’re sleeping! 6. Remove from liquid and place on a parchment-lined cookie sheet. Cover with parchment and another cookie sheet. Weigh the top cookie sheet down with cans and place in your fridge for 4-6 hours to cool completely. 7. Cut to desired size, pan fry to crispy and toss with truffle honey before serving. Chef Robertson like to serve his pork with sautéed Qualicum Bay scallops and spiced cabbage salad. June 2022 | Culinaire 9
Born and raised in Calgary, Chef Chris Shaften travelled and cooked around Canada before heading back west. First cooking at Calgary’s Farm, and then The Ranche, Shaften is now chef/owner at Krafty Kitchen + Bar in Kelowna, BC. A contemporary Canadian bistro with a focus on BC products, Shaften adds, “Krafty’s dishes are inspired by the cultural mosaic of Canada, childhood food memories and our travels.” Quality ingredients are dependent on region and season, but Shaften’s favourite is wild violets, available during a small window in spring. “They’re fragrant and beautiful, and make amazing syrups and infusion for cocktails, as well as a badass sorbet.” Shaften’s recipe for West Coast Seafood Risotto, packed with local shellfish, and infused with Mediterranean flavours, is inspired by the mosaic of cultures found in Canada. Source your seafood at a farmer’s market; Shaften assures this dish can be made just as easily here in Alberta.
Fennel and Tomato Broth for Risotto West Coast Seafood Risotto
West Coast Seafood Risotto Serves 4-6
8 cups (2 L) hot fennel and tomato broth ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 50 g onion, fine dice (1/3 medium onion) 20 g garlic, minced (about 5 large cloves) 2 Tbs salt 2 cups arborio rice 1/3 cup + 1 Tbs (100 mL) dry white wine 1 cup (250 mL) mascarpone cheese ½ cup parmesan cheese To taste lemon juice and salt Seafood of choice - Krafty Kitchen serve 170 g scallops, 1 cm diced; 170 g prawns, shell removed 1 cm diced; 227 g Dungeness crab meat; salmon roe A few chives, fine dice for garnish 1. Warm broth to whisping, but not simmering (80º C). 2. Add olive oil, onions, garlic, and salt to a shallow heavy-bottom pan, on mediumlow heat, and sweat until translucent. 3. Add rice and sauté without browning for roughly 4 minutes, or until it is hot to the touch. Add wine and reduce. Set a timer for 16 mins. 10 Culinaire | June 2022
4. Increase heat to medium and add hot stock, 1 ladle at a time, gently stirring with a wooden spoon. Keep adding stock, to keep level with the top of the rice. Stir regularly. If you have lots of liquid left, or it’s dry - adjust heat. 5. At 16 mins, there should be no stock left in pot, and the rice is moist and tender yet firm to the bite. If not, cook 2-4 mins longer until tender, adding liquid as needed. 6. Remove from heat and stir in the mascarpone and parmesan, adjust the consistency and flavour of the risotto to taste. Aim for a creamy texture, it shouldn’t be hard and stick to the spoon, or too liquid that it runs off your plate. 7. Fold in scallops and prawns and let rest 1-2 mins, the heat of the risotto cooks the seafood. 8. Spoon generously into bowls and garnish with crab, roe, and some chives.
110 g celery, no leaves, medium dice 227 g white onion, medium dice 30 g garlic cloves 3 Tbs (50 mL) olive oil 1/3 cup + 2 Tbs (110 mL) dry white wine 8 cups (2 L) clam nectar 110 g fennel stalks (leave bulb for other uses) 110 g roasted red pepper, peeled (jar or can is good) 1 cup (250 mL) tomato juice 3 bay leaves 40 g peppercorns 5 g chili flake 20 g fennel seed 1. Sauté celery, onion, and garlic in oil until translucent. 2. Add wine to deglaze pan, reduce until almost dry. Add all remaining ingredients, and simmer covered for one hour. 3. If making risotto immediately, strain into a clean pot and keep warm. If using later, put pot in ice bath and cool with lid on. Do not remove lid until no longer steaming to keep in all the flavour, then strain.
Chef Ryan Byrne says his roots for cooking and his family are in Alberta. Originally from St. Albert, Byrne earned his Red Seal Certification at NAIT before moving to the Okanagan. There, he works at Kelowna’s The Hatching Post. “We use simple, traditional techniques to re-create Southern BBQ flavours,” explains Byrne. “The concept is something totally new and unique to the Okanagan.” The ingredients Byrne uses are local, of course, and the freshness and quality excite everyone who gets to use them. “It doesn’t hurt to make friends with a local supplier, farmer or chef,” says Byrne. “Try to support independent businesses when sourcing ingredients. The extra money it might cost will definitely be worth it.” His favourite of the local bounty are peaches. “They are always one of the most highly anticipated fruits in the Okanagan, and they’re so versatile.” Eat them on their own, or add them to salads, desserts, cocktails, and even BBQ sauce, like the one Byrne shares here.
BBQ Beer Can Chicken with Okanagan Peach Glaze Serves 4
1 fresh fryer chicken 1 can of beer or cider, wash the exterior of the can before using Oil To taste salt and pepper Your favourite rub You will need and a cast iron pan or baking pan with higher edges.
1. Preheat BBQ or oven to 375º F. 2. Lightly oil the skin on the chicken. Season with salt and pepper or your favourite rub. 3. Open the can of beer or cider and pour out about ¼ of it before using. Chef Byrne recommends sampling for quality control! 4. Stand the can in the middle of your pan, insert can into chicken standing upright, position legs so it stands on its own. Place the tray carefully in the middle of the BBQ or oven. 5. Cook approximately 45 minutes then rotate the pan to ensure even cooking. Probe chicken in the thickest part of breast and thigh. When it reaches 145º F, it is time to glaze. 6. Brush a healthy amount of the peach BBQ sauce (see recipe) on all areas of the skin. Continue to bake chicken until 155-160º F internal temperature. Reapply more glaze once finished cooking. Let chicken rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting. Serve the extra sauce on the side for dipping.
Okanagan Peach BBQ Sauce 1 cup red onion 2 cloves garlic 600 g peaches, fresh or frozen 100 mL canola oil 1 Tbs fennel seed 1 tsp chili powder ½ Tbs crushed chili flakes 2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste ½ cup brown sugar
¼ cup (60 mL) honey 1 cup (250 mL) beer or cider ¼ cup (60 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 Tbs black pepper Pinch salt 1. Chop red onion and garlic into a small dice. Cut peaches into larger chunks about 1 cm. 2. Heat canola oil in medium size pan on medium heat. Add onion and garlic and sauté until translucent. 3. Add fennel seed, chili powder, and crushed chili flakes stirring continuously to not burn spices. 4. Add tomato paste, brown sugar, and honey. Cook for a few minutes until fully incorporated. 5. Now add beer or cider and apple cider vinegar, reserve rest of beer or cider for sipping. Simmer the mixture for around 10 minutes on medium heat, reducing by half. 6. Next add peach chunks and season with black pepper and a pinch of salt. Lower heat and cook this mix on low for another 10 minutes. 7. Blend in a blender or use an immersion blender. Another option is to leave it chunky and serve hot or cold.
Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. June 2022 | Culinaire 11
The Rising Tide OF CRAFT CIDER IN ALBERTA BY LISA LAGACE
Journey North Cider Co.
I
n recent years, the appetite for an alternative to craft beer in Alberta has been growing. The province’s beverage scene is vibrant and rich, yet craft cider has rarely been top of mind for local makers. But as the cult of cider grows around the world, Alberta finds itself in the early stages of a cider boom. With every new cidery that pops up, the makings of a reliable and captivating craft cider community are starting to take root. This is due to a couple of factors — the initiative of locals to bring cider to the community, and the growing need for more options for those looking for a beverage free of gluten, or just preferring something a little lighter than beer. Alberta’s first cidery officially landed in Calgary in May of 2019. SunnyCider initially came to fruition in Calgary’s Sunnyside community, where a group
12 Culinaire | June 2022
of neighbours came together each fall to pick apples. The abundance of produce they ended up with each year created a particular challenge. After making applesauce, apple pie, and apple juice… they still had more apples than they could use. Someone brought up the idea of fermentation, and after a few years of trial and error, they landed on some cider recipes that their friends, family and neighbours were raving about. “A few of us decided that with the craft beer boom, Alberta could handle some cider,” says SunnyCider’s General Manager, Dennis Scanland. “So cider was born out of an opportunity, rather than a beverage choice.” For Tyler Crowdis, Owner of Calgarybased Bramble Cider, jumping into the craft cider business came about a little differently. When he was diagnosed
with celiac disease, his love of visiting breweries and trying all the new local brews was suddenly off the table. “I decided to take things into my own hands, with the vision of making craft ciders reminiscent of my favourite experimental craft breweries,” he says. In an effort to create his dream cider — a dry and hoppy one similar to his favourite, now off-limits, IPA’s — he started experimenting in his own kitchen. “Soon our little basement was filled with carboys. I tried different fruit flavours and interesting yeasts like Brett (Brettanomyces), again trying to emulate a brewing philosophy.” When friends and family started praising the product, he decided to quit his career in the electrical industry and start Bramble with his wife. Broken Spoke Cider came to be when neighbours James and Jenny Black and
Nick Ford tried and failed to make cider from Ford’s backyard apple tree. With this failed attempt they quickly learned that a great cider requires a wide variety of apples, but that didn’t discourage them. In July of 2020 they officially launched, giving Edmonton its first cidery. Bonnyville’s Journey North Cider Co. is the furthest north cidery in Canada, and the only one in Alberta situated on its own apple orchard. Owners Amber Jury and Jeremy Bourboing had always wanted to start a winery, while their business partners, Kelly and Brian Fieger, had always wanted to start a brewery. “Growing grapes in Alberta is possible, but we aren’t exactly known for our wine region,” Jury notes. Apples, on the other hand, are plentiful in Alberta, so a cidery was the perfect compromise. “It combines all the beautiful aspects of an estate winery without the pretentiousness that wine often gets labelled with. And we get to have all the fun of craft beer, making seasonal varieties and experimenting with new flavours.” And the relative newness of cider to the northern market allows them to serve as educators. “The number one question I still get asked in the taproom is, ‘What is cider?’ So hopefully with more exposure, people choose craft cider as their drink of choice,” Jury continues. Many Alberta cideries also help deal with the overabundance of fruit that would otherwise be wasted each fall,
SunnyCider
by accepting donations. SunnyCider’s Fruit Donor program is a resounding success, and has become their most valued tradition. Each fall, anyone with extra produce can drop it off, and if the donation is over 15 kg, they will even throw in a free glass of cider. “We’ve made a raspberry rose from a pallet of raspberries that had been rained on, so not marketable. We made a peach cider with 1,000 pounds of peaches that weren’t consumer quality. Generally, the public is happy to donate their fruit to keep it out of their green bins and provide a local business with a good product,” says Scanland. Does this mean the cider revolution has arrived in Alberta? If the scene isn’t in full bloom yet, it is certainly on the horizon. There are nearly 20 cider
manufacturers in Alberta now, according to Liquor Connect. That number will only continue to grow in the coming years. “People are realizing that there is more to cider than a sweet sugar bomb. It can be dry and complex, similar to that of wine,” Scanland notes. And if there is one key to creating a perfect craft cider, it’s time. “Cider is like wine in that it needs time for the flavours to come out,” he continues. Crowdis agreed. “It's very difficult as you want to get your product onto the shelves, but time is your friend.”
Lisa Lagace is a Toronto based journalist whose work has been featured in NPR, Marie Claire, USA Today and many more. Follow her on Twitter @lisalagace.
Join the Wilder Institute/Calgary Zoo each Sunday* for a unique brunch experience! *Until Sunday, November 13, 2022. Get your tickets today at calgaryzoo.com/events/safari-brunch
Beef on a Budget:
Summer grilling and entertainment without the price tag BY MALLORY FRAYN
Skip the Striploin
S
ummer sun and the sizzle of a sumptuous steak are the perfect pairing, but with rising costs, it’s harder and harder to justify feeding a crowd with Alberta’s finest AAA beef. Thankfully, there’s an in between that doesn’t necessitate ditching the beef altogether, and with these tips, you can grill on a budget this summer, while still entertaining your friends and family with backyard BBQ fare. Befriend Your Butcher
The best way to eat meat without breaking with bank is to befriend your local 14 Culinaire | June 2022
butcher. You likely wouldn’t seek to heal a broken arm without consulting your doctor, or go to court without hiring a lawyer, so why try and make yourself an expert on a topic when people exist that know the area better than you ever will? Your butcher will know which cuts are more budget-friendly, and also have insight into how to best prepare them. Chances are, some of the “off cuts” might not even be in the butcher case, so it’s worth asking what they have available in the back. You can also tell them how you want your beef cut and prepared such that it is best suited for the application you’re using it for.
Come summer, chances are your local grocery store will have value packs of steak, served in bulk, for all your grilling and entertaining needs. However, these are usually limited to standard cuts such as striploin, T-bone, and ribeye, and the reality is, none of these are cheap, usually averaging at least $40 per kilogram. Other, more cost-effective options to look for are bavette, which is similar to flank steak, but comes from a different part of the cow. Even blade steak, which is typically relegated to pot roasts, can be amazing grilled over charcoal, so long as you are willing to cut around (or enjoy) some of the interior, fattier bits. And, on average it’s about half the price of ribeye per kilo. Even lesser known than these options are coulotte, the top sirloin cap, typically served Brazilian-style, and onglet or hanger steak, which is excellent with a healthy dose of herbaceous chimichurri. The beauty of many of these cuts is also that they are more “meaty” meats, often with a stronger, beefier flavour, so you can get away with serving smaller quantities of them without anyone feeling like they are missing out.
LIMONCELLO SPRITZ Reverse-Seared Bavette Serves 4
454 g bavette To taste kosher salt To taste freshly cracked black pepper 1. The night before you intend to serve the steak, salt it liberally and allow it to air dry in the fridge on a wire rack. This allows the meat to caramelize much nicer when cooking. 2. About an hour before you are ready to serve dinner, heat your oven to 200° F. Season the steak with pepper, if desired, and pop it in the oven. 3. The precise cooking time is going to depend on the exact size and shape of your piece of meat, so it’s helpful to have a meat thermometer on standby. 4. Because you’re going to be finishing the steak on the grill, you want to cook it a bit shy of the final temperature. The following is a helpful guide of how far to take the steak in the oven portion of the cooking: 105° F (41° C) for rare 115° F (46° C) for medium-rare and 125° F (52°C ) for medium. If you’re aiming for around medium-rare, this should take around 40-45 minutes for a 454 g piece of bavette. 5. As the steak is finishing in the oven, time the preheating of your grill accordingly so it’s ready when the steak comes out. Once the steak is cooked to your desired temperature, remove it from the oven; it’s now ready for the grill! 6. Grill until the thermometer registers 120° F (49° C) for rare, 130° F (54°C ) for medium-rare, 140° F (60° C) for medium.
Keep in mind that this won’t take too long given you completed the majority of the cooking in the oven, so you are really just looking to establish some nice grill marks and a good crust. 7. Once cooked, remove the steak from the grill. Because of the reverse searing, you don’t even have to rest it before serving. Just slice and eat. Serve with the summer sides of your choosing!
1 part Luxardo Limoncello 2 parts Pasqua Prosecco 1 part soda water Garnish with lemon slice Pour over ice and ENJOY!
Marvellous Mince
Ground beef, or mince, is too often reserved for taco dinners, or Bolognese sauce, but there’s no reason why it can’t be the star of your summer entertaining. Beef larb, a play on the Laotian classic that typically uses ground pork, is loaded with fresh summer herbs and a healthy dose of fish sauce to amp up the umami. Served in lettuce wraps, it’s a fun, “make your own” option that engages guests of all ages. Feeding a less adventurous bunch? Burgers are a crowd pleaser any time of year. And we aren’t talking pre-formed, sad, grey (and possible overcooked) patties with plastic cheese. If you’re going to do burgers, do them right. Once you’ve become buddy buddy with that butcher, ask for their recommendation on what makes the best burger mix. If they can grind it fresh for you, even better. Plus, the money you save not buying 225 g steaks for each of your guests can be used to doll up your burgers with the fanciest of condiments. Splurge on the cheese with an aged English cheddar or Switzerland’s Gruyère des Grottes. You might even go as far as making your own truffle mayonnaise for that extra flourish. Brioche buns from your local bakery are a must, naturally.
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Star Sides
Beef Larb Lettuce Wraps Serves 4
Beef can be the focal point without having to take up 90 percent of the plate. Go for a “meat on the side” mentality and bulk up your meal with all the fresh summer produce your heart desires. That way you can buy quality ingredients without racking up a price tag that will make your bank account scream. Corn is always a summer delight, particularly with access to Alberta’s delicious Taber corn. Mexican street corn, slathered with mayo, cheese, and herbs is tasty, but can also make a mess. Try turning it into this salad, that can be made in advance of your gathering and improves when all the flavours have the chance to meld together.
225 g medium ground beef 2 Tbs (30 mL) fish sauce, plus extra for serving 2 Tbs (30 mL) fresh lime juice, plus extra for serving 1 fresh Thai chili, thinly sliced, plus extra for serving 1 medium shallot, thinly sliced 1 cup fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped 2 scallions, thinly sliced 2 Tbs (30g) nutritional yeast ½ cup fresh mint leaves 2 heads Boston lettuce, for serving Extra mint and cilantro (around ½-1 cup of each, depending on your fondness for herbs), for serving 1 cup cooked sticky rice, for serving 1. In a medium sized saucepan, bring 2-3 tablespoons of water to a boil. Add in the ground beef and cook, stirring constantly until the meat turns grey and is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Unlike for other applications of ground beef in which you’re aiming to brown the beef, you don’t want that in this case. Instead, you’re looking for tender bits of beef to sop up the seasoning that you’re about to add. 2. Remove from heat and add in the fish sauce, lime juice, chili, and shallot. Let sit for 5-10 minutes for all the flavours to mingle. 3. Add in the cilantro, scallions, nutritional yeast, and mint. More than anything, the yeast is there to sop up some of the extra liquid to make the beef saucier. 4. Serve family style, allowing everyone to assemble their own wraps. Pro tip – lining the lettuce with a layer of sticky rice before dolloping on the larb itself helps make the wraps a bit less messy. Keep the condiments (i.e. fish sauce, fresh lime, chiles) at hand so people can add at their discretion.
16 Culinaire | June 2022
Mexican Street Corn Salad Serves 4
2 Tbs (30 mL) vegetable oil 4 ears fresh corn, shucked, kernels removed (about 3 cups fresh corn kernels) ½ cup finely sliced scallions, green parts only 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and stemmed, finely chopped (optional, omit if you don’t love spice) 1 to 2 medium cloves garlic, pressed or minced 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) mayonnaise 1 Tbs (15 mL) fresh lime juice 1/3 cup feta cheese, crumbled To taste kosher salt and black pepper
1. Heat a pan on high and add oil. Once it is hot, add in the corn and cook the corn kernels until charred, about 3-5 minutes. 2. Remove from the heat and put the corn into a mixing bowl. Stir in all the ingredients and season to taste. Keep in mind the feta and mayo are salty, so it likely will not require much added salt. 3. Serve immediately or keep in the fridge until ready. Garnish with extra cilantro and feta cheese if desired.
Mallory is a Calgary clinical psychologist and food writer now living and eating in Montreal. Her goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.
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Noble Premium
Puts Bison Back on The Table BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH
Noble Premium Bison
B
efore 2020, the Noble Premium Bison brand was unknown on the Canadian market. But suddenly, in those wild early months of the pandemic, the Millarvillebased company started showing up on store shelves. Now, two years after its retail launch, Noble’s bison products are available across Canada in major grocery retailers like Safeway, Sobeys, Co-op, and Costco. With its smart marketing and high-quality product, Noble Premium Bison seems to be a bit of an overnight success, but the brand’s quick rise is actually the result of years of industry experience from partners Kelly Long and Doug Griller, and a carefully laid-out business plan. Before getting into how Noble became one of the largest bison companies in North America, it’s important to know a 18 Culinaire | June 2022
little about the Canadian bison market. While bison has become a familiar menu item on restaurant menus in Alberta because of its ties to the land here, most of us still don’t include it on our local grocery lists, largely due to price and an unfamiliarity with the meat. Bison had a brief burst of popularity in the 1990s when it was billed as a leaner and more diet-conscious alternative to beef, but according to Long the market crashed completely in 2000 and keen bison entrepreneurs have been trying to build it back up since. “Bison is indigenous and the original regenerative animal that roamed not just in Canada but across North America,” Long says. “There's so much history and stories that go with bison. People look back at it and think of bison as being a sort of heritage meat.” Both Long and Griller have been
part of that move towards creating a sustainable bison market. Griller has been ranching bison for decades, and Long - who has a background in business and marketing - founded Carmen Creek Bison with her husband in the early ‘00s and eventually sold that company because of challenges in the market. When Griller approached Long to join forces to help move his supply of product in 2016, she knew that her marketing skills and his bison supply could make for a very successful company — if they built it in the right way. Successful food brands often come about when a producer has a great product that becomes popular, forcing them to scramble to ramp up production and distribution to keep up with demand, but Noble flipped that narrative around. Taking what she’d learned from running Carmen Creek, Long started by selling
into the European market, gradually building up her supply (in addition to Grillers’s ranch in Saskatchewan, Noble draws from some other Canadian bison farmers, with everything processed at a facility in North Dakota that doesn’t deal with other species of meat) so that everything would be good to go by the time she approached big retailers. Eliminating the typical “figuring things out as we go along” phase, Noble was able to make such a splash in what seemed — to the public at least — like a relatively short time. “We needed to have our supply locked in,” Long says. “We wanted to make sure that we had a very consistent program and that's what we worked on first.” The other obstacle that Noble is fighting is the public’s lack of knowledge when it comes to choosing cuts of bison and cooking the protein. Long says that over the course of her bison career she’s encountered many potential customers who have refused to even try the meat, assuming that it will have a strong flavour. There’s also the issue of the price — since bison is produced in much smaller quantities than beef it tends to be more costly and many consumers are afraid to make the investment on something that they have less experience with. “One of the things we've done is we've tried to educate,” Long says. “Bison is a little bit richer and sweeter, but it doesn't taste wild and gamey. It's got a very similar profile to beef.” Noble is continuing to push the message that bison is a healthy and sustainable high-value protein, while offering tips for cooking right on each package so that customers can get the most out of their cut of choice. The company offers everything from ground bison, which can stand in for other ground meats in burgers, pasta sauces, and chilis, to both grilling and marinating steaks, and cuts like brisket. Long says that she doesn’t expect bison to eclipse beef sales within her lifetime, but that both home cooks and restaurant customers are becoming more comfortable with bison. With Noble’s increased presence in grocery stores, that market is likely to grow. “It's becoming more mainstream,” she says. “When companies like Sobeys and
Doug Griller and Kelly Long
Bison Skewers
Bison Tostados
Costco have us on their shelf, it is not as much novelty as it used to be. When people take it home and try it a few times they get excited and want to include it in their weekly rotation.”
Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life. June 2022 | Culinaire 19
STEP BY STEP
Fancy French Tiny Cakes:
Madeleines and Financiers
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN
Lemon Poppy Seed Madeleines Makes 12
These tiny French butter cakes, which require their very own special baking pan, are worthy of all the accolades that regularly come their way. Browned and crispy on the outside, soft and spongy in the middle, they’re a bit of a process to make, but oh so terribly worth it. Lemon and poppy seed are a classic combo, and if you feel like drizzling a little glaze of icing sugar and lemon juice on top, please do. You may think that when you purchase your madeleine pan you won’t use it very much, but I assure you, such thoughts are nonsense. ½ cup + 1 Tbs unsalted butter ¾ cup + 1 tsp all-purpose flour, divided 1 Tbs poppy seeds ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 2 large eggs, at room temperature ½ cup granulated sugar 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice 1 Tbs grated lemon zest 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract Icing sugar, for dusting
W
hether you plan on hosting an elegant bridal shower, tea party, or potluck garden gathering, these fancy French tiny cakes are sure to make a grand impression. Both are rich and delicious, thanks to the addition of browned butter,
20 Culinaire | June 2022
which makes just about everything better. With big flavour and utter compact cuteness, these Madeleines and Financiers will make you feel like you’ve just been to a Parisian bakery without leaving your Albertan backyard.
1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. The butter will froth and bubble and then turn golden. (It’s okay to give it a bit of a stir.) When it starts to brown and smell nutty, remove the pan from the heat. Remove 1 Tbs (15 mL) of the brown butter to a small bowl. Let the remaining brown butter cool in the pan. 2. Combine ¾ cup of the flour, the poppy seeds, baking powder and salt in a medium bowl. In a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat together the eggs, sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, and vanilla until creamy, about 5 minutes. Fold the flour mixture into the egg mixture, then fold in the ½ cup (125 mL) of cooled brown butter ever so gently. Be careful not to overmix. Refrigerate the batter for 1 hour. 3. Meanwhile, stir together the reserved 1 Tbs (15 mL) of brown butter with the 1 tsp of
all-purpose flour and use a pastry brush to grease the wells of the madeleine pan. Place the pan in the freezer for at least 1 hour. 4. Preheat the oven to 375° F (190º C). Place the rack in the centre of the oven. 5. Use a heaping soup spoon to fill each well in the madeleine pan, but don’t fill them right to the top or they’ll spill over as they bake. I use my fingers to spread the batter out evenly. Place the pan on a baking sheet and bake for 13–14 minutes. The edges will be light golden brown and the tops will spring back when gently touched when they’re ready. Remove the pan from the oven and the baking sheet and let it cool for 2 minutes on a wire rack. Use a knife to gently remove the madeleines from the pan and place them on a wire rack or tea towel to cool completely before dusting with icing sugar. 6. These are best enjoyed the day they are made, but can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 day.
Raspberry Orange Financiers Makes 24
Financiers are rich, tiny cakes made with almond flour, browned butter and egg whites. Usually baked in small molds, they are traditionally rectangular in shape, but a mini muffin tin works just as well and is much easier to find. For ease of removal, I strongly recommend lining the cups with mini muffin papers. This will make your life much easier, and ensure a successful bake. The financier batter is quite sticky,
so much so that even a nonstick pan will succumb to its sticking power. While financiers look impressive, they’re quite simple to make. With crunchy edges and a rich, buttery interior, it’s easy to see why these classic French cakes are pretty perfect bites. ½ cup unsalted butter 1 cup finely ground almond flour ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup granulated sugar ½ cup packed light brown sugar ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 1 orange, zested (or lemon) 4 large egg whites 1 tsp (5 mL) pure vanilla extract 24 fresh small raspberries (if they are large, use 12 and cut in half) 3 Tbs icing sugar 1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. The butter will froth and bubble and then turn golden. (It’s okay to give it a bit of a stir). When it starts to brown and smell nutty, remove the pan from the heat. Pour into a small dish and let cool for 15 minutes. 2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the dry ingredients (almond flour to orange zest). Whisk in the egg whites until they are fully incorporated and the mixture is thick and sticky. 3. Stir in the browned butter and vanilla, gently at first to incorporate, then vigorously to allow the batter to fully come together. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. 4. Preheat the oven to 350º F (175º C) and
line a mini muffin tin with paper liners. Use a small cookie scoop to fill each cup. Gently press a raspberry into each cake. Bake for 12-17 minutes, until they are golden brown and set in the centre. Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes then carefully remove the financiers to a cooling rack to cool completely. Dust with icing sugar before serving. 5. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month.
Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.
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PROSECCO ROSÉ
How the World’s Smelliest Fruit Wafted its Way onto Alberta’s Sweet Scene BY JADE PRÉVOST-MANUEL
B
EHIND THE UNASSUMING exterior of a Strathcona Junction, Edmonton commercial kitchen, baker Winnie Hu is carefully stacking crepes. It’s with great precision — the kind that one would expect from a life-long hobby baker turned professional — that Hu assembles a tower of buttery, ultra-thin cakes held together by pastry cream. But between each layer lurks another ingredient that strikes the fancy of some of Hu’s customers and the flight response of others: pure durian flesh. Loved by some, tolerated by others, and feared by many, durian is arguably the world’s smelliest fruit. In parts of Southeast Asia to which durian is native, such as Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Thailand, it’s even banned from entering businesses and public spaces because of its pungent odour. Some liken the smell of durian fruit to raw sewage or rotting flesh. Yet its rich, intoxicating taste is what has captivated the customers of Alberta bakeries and 22 Culinaire | June 2022
creameries who incorporate the fruit into their sweet creations. At Thousand and One Cakes, Hu and her team incorporate the fruit into their succulent mille crepes, the dessert for which the Edmonton bakery is known. Thousand and One Cakes is a business born of the COVID-19 pandemic. On a normal year, Hu travels to her home country of China, as well as nearby countries like Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand, to relish in the foods she craves here in Canada but struggles to find, like durian. In several cultures, the fruit is eaten raw or cooked. Sometimes, it’s even used as an anti-fever treatment or aphrodisiac. But for sweet tooths like Hu, it’s most delicious when used to flavour candies and desserts. Bummed by travel bans and the boredom of lockdown, Hu channelled her energy into infusing her mille crepes with tastes of home, including that of the strange fruit that captivated her at first nibble. “The first time I came across durian, I
thought the fruit looked so weird,” recalls Hu, who describes the taste as fermented vanilla. “But I liked it from the first bite, and the smell doesn’t bother me, because I like how it smells, too.” Hu knows not all her patrons feel the same way. That’s why Thousand and One Cakes sets aside dedicated durian days when they unleash the fruit into the kitchen, only making durian mille crepes to avoid imparting an unbecoming stench on the space. Hu even houses her durian mille crepes in their own special fridge. In Cochrane, family-owned creamery, MacKay’s, has a similar process for handling the processed pulp of the ultra-stinky fruit. MacKay’s produces a durian ice cream from Malaysian puréed durian fruit, which its staff mixes with the creamery’s signature ice cream base at its Cochrane manufacturing plant. It’s a process best left until the end of the day, says MacKay’s owner, Meghan Tayfel, once the other flavours have been blended, frozen, and packaged away at a safe distance. Handle with care is the
name of the game when MacKay’s ice cream makers whip up the creamery’s durian ice cream that, against all odds, produces a smooth, creamy dessert of which their customers can’t get enough. Tayfel’s family has served up chilled treats to Albertans for 73 years. Vanilla, chocolate and strawberry are all on the menu, but one of their best-selling takehome flavours is durian. That all began with Tayfel’s aunt, a hot-footed traveller and the store’s second-generation owner who heard the praises sung of a fruit named durian during her travels to Asia. She learned that, despite its unbecoming stink, the fruit could be transformed into delicious desserts, particularly ice cream, and returned to Cochrane to put durian ice cream on the local culinary map. “When she came back from her travels, she started experimenting, and managed to come up with this really great ice cream,” says Tayfel. “And truly, [durian] is a really nice fruit to work with, because it [creates] an amazingly creamy product.” COVID-19 supply chain challenges put a halt to MacKay’s durian ice cream production over the last few years. Tayfel says that getting her hands on the durian that she and her staff like to work with has been a challenge. After nearly two years of going without, MacKay’s customers were finally able to purchase one-litre take-home containers of the creamery’s durian ice cream in early 2022, when Tayfel tracked down durian from a supplier in Vietnam.
Thousand & One Cakes
Within one weekend, all of MacKay’s durian ice cream had sold out — a testament to the mesmerizing power of the fruit’s flavour. “The customers who like durian love it,” says Tayfel. “They tell us repeatedly that it’s the best durian ice cream they’ve had, that it’s super creamy, or that it reminds them of home.” Providing tastes of home to the Asian and Southeast Asian community in Edmonton is what Hu loves to do best. During the mid-autumn festival — a traditional festival when residents of China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macau, and Vietnam, enjoy mooncake desserts as part of the celebrations — Hu produces Musang King Durian Mooncrepes. The mooncrepe, she says, is her creative take on the mooncake. Instead of filling a crust with lotus or red bean
Mackay’s Ice Cream
paste, Hu envelops her mille crepes and pure durian flesh in a soft mochi coating. With each durian dessert she produces, Hu says she’s bringing home a little bit closer to the customers she serves. “It’s bringing back their childhood memories, right? And they’re just super happy and grateful to enjoy the flavour of their hometown.” Thousand & One Cakes, 1001cakes.com 6792 99 Street NW, Edmonton 587-988-3222 Open Saturdays, 2–5 pm Mackay’s Ice Cream, mackaysicecream.com 220 1 Street W, Cochrane 403-932-2455 Seven days, 10am–6pm
Jade Prévost-Manuel’s work has appeared in Canadian Geographic Travel, Outpost Magazine, BESIDE Magazine, and CBC News, and she loves nothing better than sampling dishes and treats from around the world.
Nothing Generic About This Fish STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY NATALIE FINDLAY
2. Add the oregano, thyme and garlic and continue to cook another 4 minutes. 3. Add the white wine and stock. 4. Season the cod with salt and pepper and place in the pan. Add the chickpeas and top with the capers. 5. Place in the oven at 375º F for 8 - 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of your cod. Remove from oven and serve with chunks of briny feta and a sprinkling of parsley. Cool, and refrigerate until chilled and set. This can be made up to two days ahead.
Greek Style Cod with Tomatoes
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rom over-fishing to only being thought about when serving fish and chips, cod has more to offer to your weekly menu. It can be baked, broiled, poached, sautéed, steamed, roasted, and of course, fried. This chameleon of a fish can be flavoured with a variety of combinations from a pinch of sea salt and a splash of lemon to stronghanded blackened seasonings. Cod has a light taste and delicate, flaky texture. There is another fish out there that is a cod “trickster” - Black Cod. This fish is not Codfish but another mouthwatering fish, whose name is Sablefish. It has the highest omega-3 content of any white fish, and higher than many species of salmon. Black Cod has a silky texture and rich, buttery flavour. 24 Culinaire | June 2022
Greek Style Cod with Tomatoes Serves 2
1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil 200 g tomatoes 1 tsp oregano 1 tsp thyme 4 cloves garlic ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine ¼ cup (60 mL) fish stock 450 g cod To taste salt and pepper 1 can chickpeas ½ tsp capers 75 g feta cheese Parsley, for garnish 1. In a large oven safe pan, heat olive oil. Add the tomatoes and gently sauté over medium to medium-low heat for 4 minutes.
Fresh Cod on a Bed of Onion and Potatoes
Fresh Cod on a Bed of Onion and Potatoes Serves 2
1 large onion, sliced thin 2 bay leaves 4 cloves garlic 2 tsp ground thyme 1 tsp paprika ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine ¼ cup (60 mL) fish stock (or veg stock) 1 potato, sliced 5-6mm thick 450 g cod 2 Tbs (30 mL) olive oil To taste salt and pepper
Codfish and Eggs
1. Preheat oven to 350º F. 2. In an individual or family size pan, cover the bottom with the onions and season with salt and pepper. Tuck in the bay leaves and garlic cloves. Add thyme and paprika. 3. Pour the wine and stock into the pan. 4. Add a layer of potatoes on top of the onions and season with a little salt, pepper, and thyme. Season the cod with salt and pepper and place on top of the potatoes. Drizzle everything with olive oil. 5. Cover and place in the oven and cook 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft and the fish is cooked through. Remove bay leaves. 6. Serve with a side salad and a crusty bread to sop up the juices.
Codfish and Eggs (Bras Style) (Uses salted cod) Serves 2
70 g salt cod Oil for frying 1 small potato, matchstick size slivers 1½ Tbs (22 mL) olive oil 1 small onion, thinly sliced 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 bay leaf 1 tsp thyme To taste salt and pepper 2 eggs 3 yolks Olives, for garnish 1. Fill a glass bowl with fresh cold water and add the salt cod, cover and refrigerate. Change the water every 6 hours for 24 to 36 hours. This should
Black Cod
remove the excess salt from preserving. 2. Cook cod in water for 10 minutes over medium heat, strain and let cool. Once the cod has cooled, break cod into small pieces and remove any bones and skin.
Note:
If you are in a rush - cover the salted cod with water and cook over medium heat 10 minutes. Strain off the water. Repeat as needed to remove the excess salt from the cod.
3. In a high sided pot add enough oil to fill 1/3 of the pot. 4. Submerge potato slivers in cold water, strain. Completely dry potatoes on paper towels or a clean dish cloth. 5. Turn on stove to medium-high. Place potatoes in the cold pot of oil and fry until they turn light brown, stirring occasionally to separate the potatoes. Reserve. 6. In a medium pan, over medium-low heat, add the olive oil. Add the onions and cook 5 minutes, they should soften but not take on much colour. 7. Add the bay leaves, thyme, salt and garlic and cook 2 minutes. 8. Add the cod and cook another few minutes, gently stir to combine ingredients. Over low heat, add ¾ of the fried potato to the pan and gently stir together. Let the mixture cook approximately 5 minutes. 9. In a medium bowl, add the eggs and yolks and whisk to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Remove pan from heat and add the egg mixture. Gently stir the egg mixture into the potatoes working at not cooking the eggs too quickly.
10. Add pan back to heat. Let cook another 5 minutes, stirring to incorporate everything together. Serve topped with olives.
The Infamous Black Cod
(which isn’t cod at all but sablefish) Serves 2 2 Tbs (30 mL) white miso 8 Tbs (90 mL) sake 3 Tbs (45 mL) mirin 1 tsp brown sugar 2 fillets black cod 1. To make marinade, in a medium bowl add the miso, sake, mirin, and brown sugar and whisk until everything is fully incorporated. Pour the marinade into a glass container and add the black cod, covering both sides. Refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours. 2. Preheat oven to 375ª F. 3. Remove fish and place on a parchment lined baking sheet, skin side up. Bake for 20 minutes. 4. In a small pot, add marinade and cook over medium-high heat for 5 minutes stirring occasionally. After 20 minutes, remove fish from oven, brush some sauce over the fish and broil for 1-2 minutes until charred but not burnt. Reserve the rest of the sauce for drizzling over the rest of your meal.
Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes. June 2022 | Culinaire 25
Enter Today!
REGISTRATION IS OPEN for Alberta's largest and most respected drinks competition – THE 10th ANNUAL ALBERTA BEVERAGE AWARDS.
Visit culinairemagazine.ca/ABA to enter your products OPEN TO ANY: WINE < BEER < SPIRITS < MEAD < CIDER < MIXER SAKE < LIQUEUR < NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGE Registration Deadline: June 30 • Judging: July 18, 19, and 20
For more information, contact competition director Tom Firth: tom@culinairemagazine.ca 26 Culinaire | June 2022
Water In Brewing:
It Runs Deeper Than You Think BY DAVID NUTTALL
“Try to leave this world a little better than you found it and when your turn comes to die, you can die happy in feeling that at any rate you have not wasted your time but have done your best.” ~ Lord Robert Baden-Powell
In the past couple of years, our planet has seen a massive shift in activity. Whether it’s work, leisure time, travel, or even home life, people's lives have been inexorably changed. Obviously, the arrival of COVID in 2019 has been a major reason for this transformation, but it has also gone far beyond health measures. Whether it is climate change, workplace culture, water management, environmental stewardship, supply chain issues, staffing challenges, e-commerce, or something else, many of these matters have been of interest for decades. The liquor industry has not been
immune to these topics. From the agriculture that provides the ingredients for all alcohol, through the production facilities, to the delivery chain of goods and all points in between, no part of the industry has escaped unscathed. While many factors affect all sectors, some are more prevalent to specific segments of the industry. For instance, distilleries may have supply shortages, from barrels to bottles; restaurants and bars deal with staffing shortfalls and minimizing food waste; while sustainability and climate change are leading issues for wineries. For breweries, water usage is the number one concern. However you slice it, water is the driving force behind brewing. It is the largest component of beer, accounting for about 95 percent of the final product. To get to that point though, it is estimated that as much as 300 litres of water are needed for each litre of beer, when accounting for all the water needed from seed to package. While breweries can't control the agricultural factors (unless they own
their farms), they can manage the water inside their building. While we all think of water as the base of the beer, it is used all throughout the brewery. When including packaging, equipment cleaning, wastewater, utilities, and ancillary usages, like restrooms and food service (if applicable), the water-use ratio (or WUR) of an average brewery twenty years ago used to be around 10:1 for each litre of beer produced. Today, breweries are aiming for ratios of one half to one quarter of that and the improvement has to come from many areas within and outside the brewery. It's apparent by these numbers that breweries use a massive amount of water that doesn't end up in the beer. Most of it is wastewater that heads down the drain and contributes to a large proportion of their environmental impact. In response, the industry is developing techniques that can help minimize this. The simplest way is to monitor, test, and measure water use, such as detecting for leaks, using multiple flow meters, or improving cleaning procedures. June 2022 | Culinaire 27
In addition, wastewater can be reclaimed and treated within the brewery itself through a series of processes that can involve filtration, aeration, chlorination, reverse osmosis, and sterilization. The resultant clean water can be used for anything but the beer, as reclaimed water is not currently legal to brew. In the United States, water usage is monitored much more closely than here in Canada. It is estimated this current two-decade old drought, which has been prominent over the US mid and southwest this century, is the most severe on record and probably the worst in over 1,200 years. As a result, the (American) Brewers Association has published a Water and Wastewater: Treatment/Volume Reduction Manual to help breweries control their water usage. In Canada, there is no such comparable guide, but then our brewers' association is only just over three years old. However, one shouldn’t fall for the fallacious assumption that Canada has an inexhaustible supply of water. Drier summers, shrinking glaciers, and decreased snowpacks all manifest themselves as diminished flow rates in rivers and lower levels in lakes and reservoirs. This has a multi-tiered effect on breweries. Low rainfall seasons or droughts affect grain levels. According to the Canadian Grain Commission, the drought of 2021 resulted in Western
We’re delighted to announce new dates, new pairing dinners, and new menus! Check culinairemagazine.ca/events regularly, and email to be included in our bi-monthly updates to hear about events before the rest of the city. They do sell out rather quickly! Surf-Turf Fine & Dine at Big Fish/ Open Range Thursday June 9 A fabulous one-off premium evening, with a reception and canapes, followed by a 4-course dinner with five pairings! We sold out very quickly for this dinner last time! 28 Culinaire | June 2022
Canadian barley production being approximately 37 percent lower than 2020, despite the total area planted being 10 percent higher than the year before. Water levels and consumption rates also require conversations with communities and governments, who control permits for construction and the expansion of breweries. In the US, some localities have declined brewery approvals based on lack of infrastructure or water supply. In addition, fluctuations in flow rates can alter the chemical composition of existing water sources, which in turn will influence brewing recipes and processes. The way to mitigate some of these issues is for breweries to keep in constant contact with local government water
Vine & Dine at Las Canarias Wednesday June 15 and Tuesday June 21 This year we have two nights of this authentic, 6-course Spanish pairing dinner, with some of the best paella in the city! Patio Party Vine & Dine at Shoe & Canoe Wednesday June 29 Celebrating summer with a welcome reception and first course on the patio, followed by five more pairing courses in the always excellent Shoe & Canoe restaurant! Vine & Dine at Buffo Saturday July 9 and Thursday July 14 We’re coming back to Buffo for two Vine & Dine evenings of delicious, Italian 6-course pairing dinners!
authorities and to partner with farmers to formulate plans for water conservation and sustainability. Simple things like strategic tree and vegetation planting can control erosion and help filter pollutants from entering water sources. Better and smarter water usage all down the line is an accessible starting point. The panic button hasn’t been pushed in Alberta yet, but climate change is here now, and how breweries deal with their water footprint will determine their very survival. David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.
One-Off Fine & Dine at Oxbow Thursday July 21 We’re delighted to be at one of Calgary’s top restaurants, Oxbow, in Hotel Arts Kensington, for one evening only, to treat ourselves to a very special pairing dinner! Peak Cellars Winemaker Pairing Dinner at Sirocco Golf Club Friday July 29 We’re thrilled to have winemaker, Stephanie Stanley, of Peak Cellars in the Okanagan’s Lake Country, with us for this 6-course Fine & Dine pairing dinner. New evenings are added regularly, so check them out and email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve. We try to cater for all allergies.
OUR 8TH ANNUAL CULINAIRE
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Everyone has gone home a winner at our Culinaire Treasure Hunts and Taste Tours; they’ve been so popular that the spots sell out every year, so now we’ve planned a new and exciting World Taste Tour with new treats to enjoy. And it’s all in one location – just park up and walk, Bison Tostada no driving across town! You’ll answer questions to learn and enjoy different foods at each stop, and use your new knowledge and skill to complete the 17th Avenue SW culinary puzzle to win fabulous prizes! And there are prizes for the best costumes, the funniest team names, the funniest photos on social media... and lots more! It’s another very fun and rewarding day, so grab a partner and sign up as a team of two, or sign up solo at culinairemagazine.ca/treasure-hunt.
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culinairemagazine.ca June 2022 | Culinaire 29
Not Partaking? A BY TOM FIRTH
F
or the longest time, if someone chose to abstain from drinking, their options were basically coffee, soda, or water. Most non-alcoholic beers were so thin or flavourless they were pretty well insipid, while sparkling apple juice (remember that stuff? – it’s still around!) was only for the kids to feel like the grownups, and let’s be honest, a cup of coffee in the evening isn’t always a good idea. But in the last few years, there has been a renaissance of sorts when it’s come to non-alcoholic wines, beers, and yes spirits. The reasons why this day has come are varied, and there isn’t a whole lot of data identifying what has really happened. But the result is the same, more people are looking for options whether they choose to abstain from alcohol, have a medical or cultural reason to avoid alcohol, or just prefer to not have it. All valid reasons, but finally, the options are pretty damn good. Shaun Johnson, the Curation Manager of Calgary’s 5 Vines stores, sees nonalcoholic products continuing to trend upwards over the next couple of years. “It is a category which really hasn't seen a lot of interest from producers until now. With so many craft breweries and 30 Culinaire | June 2022
distilleries constantly vying for shelf space, I am expecting a deluge of options to flood the market.” According to Edmonton’s Aligra Wine & Spirits Co-owner, Grant Schneider, the trend is being partially driven by the newfound interest in mocktail culture. A cautionary note Schneider shares is that, “customers complain that many non-alcoholic beers have very little resemblance to alcoholic beers made by the same company.” This is a sentiment echoed by Johnson as well, “…is it going to taste like a real beer or a bitter, carbonated, hop-water which they will have to smile and swallow because they're at the in-laws for dinner?” Ultimately, these products have to pass the “smell” or taste test. They have to stand up to traditional versions, and many non-alcoholic spirits veer close to botanically infused water, while in the case of wines and beers, the missing alcohol does lose some of the body or mouthfeel component of the beverage. Fans of lighter, “American-style” beers might not have noticed the missing body in old-school non-alcoholic beer, but these days, most want a craftier, more flavourful one – alcohol or not. So buyer beware, but these days, there
is a valid, and often tasty alternative for traditional alcoholic beverages that won’t leave you feeling like you are sitting at the kid’s table. Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling Rosé, Germany Served in a very easy to manage 250 mL size can – perfect for a back country hike or single serving, this is part of the new reality of alcohol-free wines – quality driven and tasty. A very light, very pale rose with a fine effervescence and breezy, soft fruits on the nose, the palate is fairly sweet (but not saccharine) with good flavours and well balanced. You don’t even miss the alcohol. Serve nice and chilled, and enjoy! CSPC +858601 $5-6 (250 mL) Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Alcohol Free Sparkling Riesling, Germany I was a little nervous tasting this, since I love good riesling, and would be sorely disappointed if this was an abomination, but it manages to hold on tight to the crisp mineral characters, tart apple and citrus fruits and a zesty acid to tie it all together. A touch on the sweet side, but quaffable and a fine alternative for the abstainer or designated driver. CSPC +858591 $5-6 (250 mL)
real alternative – finally.
Benjamin Bridge Piquette Zero Nova Scotia Rather than an alcohol-free wine or beverage, this is a wine-style drink instead, so it was never a wine or beer that had something “missing” from the norm. One could think of this as an alcohol-free punch or even an alternative to soda. Based around mineral water with various flavourings (including grape extracts), I’d be more likely to seek this out as an alternative to a soda than a wine. Piquette almost demands to be enjoyed on a scorching hot day with an ice cube or two. CSPC +857955 $5-6 (250 mL) Sovi Sparkling Rosé, United States A de-alcoholised rosé wine made from California tempranillo grapes, this is also rather dark (for rosé) in the glass. Deeply laden with tart cherry and orange flavours, it’s evoking more of that Spanish style rosé than we usually see. The alcohol might leave a little vacancy on the palate, but there is a fairly good finish here and a good mouthfeel. Serve chilled and enjoy on one of those hot days. CSPC +869075 $5-6 (250 mL)
Fahr Alkoholfrie, Alberta Justifiably, Fahr is appreciated for their stunning, expertly-crafted beers, so I was a little surprised – but not too much when they launched an alcohol-free beer. The world definitely needs more options for the non-drinkers. Damn good and manages to smell like “real” beer with a full flavoured beer character on the palate. A fine alternative if you are abstaining. CSPC +835005 $13-15 (6-pack cans) Silver Swallow Kombucha Blanc Canada People just love the healthy aspects of kombucha, and this was something a little different to try under the sun. With about 0.5 percent alcohol, it’s considered an alcohol-free sparkler, but what really makes this shine is the inclusion of white tea elements. Long story short, it’s quite tasty, quite dry, and should be a unique alternative for fans of iced tea on those hot days. $19-22 on most shelves CR*FT Easy Going Pale Ale, Alberta Pale ales are my go-to for an end of day or patio beer, so I’m holding this to a high standard. Love the nose with a good
amount of fruit and subtle hoppiness, crisp and citrusy on the palate with a great floral character, and a lighter body. Still a solid option, but lacking some of the oomph of a traditional beer. CSPC +852409 $13-15 (4-pack cans) Sir. James 101 Bitter Aperitif Netherlands A fresh and lively take on a non-alcoholic Spritz, with loads of bitter orange, and a rock-solid balance of infusions and herbal notes. Nicely carbonated, pleasing bitterness, and really, just darn good. A rare non-alcoholic expression where the lack of alcohol isn’t even noticed. A crushable non-tipple for a nice hot day. CSPC +861269 $5-6 (250 mL) Sir. James 101 Gin Tonic Flavour Netherlands To be blunt, it’s hard to make a nonalcoholic gin without skirting juniper water territory, but this pre-mixed “cocktail” from Sir. James does this one right. Crisp, citrus-driven and with the right amounts of juniper and tonic notes to tie it all together. A little ice, maybe a slice of lime, a hot day, and you are set. CSPC +861268 $5-6 (250 mL) June 2022 | Culinaire 31
June Spirits
G
BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON
in is what’s on our minds. After a seemingly endless winter, with some brutally cold days, and a little wintertime apathy affecting most of us, we are clamouring to get out on the deck, relax on the patio, or just even take in the summertime heat – and for that, we’ve been thinking about gin. Not just any gin, we’ve been sampling and tasting a number of cool, unique, and fairly far out there examples and have some recommendations from Italy, Scotland, Newfoundland, and yes, a few from Alberta too! Don’t forget to stock up on some tonic while you are out! Emporia Mediterranean Gin Calabria, Italy A very expressive gin to beat the heat with showing off stronger herbal and citrus characters on the nose. It’s on the palate that this really starts to come together, all those herbs and botanical notes over spice and a not too bitter finish, but still quite a lot of depth and a fantastic smoothness that should make this a key element to a martini or simple cocktail. CSPC +845736 $55-57 Isle of Raasay Gin, Scotland Scotland’s Raasay Island is about the same size as Manhattan but with only 160 residents, many of whom work at the distillery. Their gin is the first legal spirit from this island known for centuries of illicit distilling – and it’s a beauty. Made with water from their well and ten botanicals, it opens with notes of sweet citrus and rhubarb which follow through to the palate. It doesn’t need tonic yet makes a great G&T, but even better add a little Lillet Blanc and orange zest for a superb martini! CSPC +846751 $70-73 The Newfoundland Distillery Co. Seaweed Gin, Newfoundland We so love the focus on using local ingredients to give a sense of place, and Newfoundland Distillery use locally grown barley for both their gins, and pick all the botanicals from the land nearby or from the sea. For their Seaweed Gin, they macerate juniper and dulse together for six months and add savory, resulting in a delicate, sweet nose, and a deliciously salty, herbaceous flavour. I’d be very happy to sip this neat – or with a touch of olive brine in my martini! CSPC +817404 $47-50
32 Culinaire | June 2022
The Newfoundland Distillery Co. Cloudberry Gin, Newfoundland Newfoundland Distillery’s Cloudberry Gin is surprising (in a good way) as it’s so different to the Seaweed Gin, equally delicious but much more fruity. There they call these yellow raspberry-like berries bakeapples, and they add juniper from Placentia Bay, and a touch of savory to the maceration before triple distilling. It’s bright and a little citrus – perfect for what they call an ‘Atlantic 75’, adding just lemon juice, simple syrup, and sparkling wine for a summer celebration drink. CSPC +834507 $47-50 Burwood Distillery Grapefruit and Lemongrass Gin, Alberta Completing the trio of Garden Party small batch seasonal gins launched last year with the Cucumber Gin and Triple Berry Gin, Calgary’s Burwood Distillery have now released their new Grapefruit and Lemongrass Gin. Its citrus-juniper nose is fresh and inviting, and it’s full of flavour - ideal for so many drinks. We’re thinking gimlets, salty dogs, any number of fizzes, and sangria. And the delicate pink colour is perfect for summer garden parties. CSPC +869169 Around $50 District Distillery Empire Gin, Alberta A polished and exotic gin, that was a pleasure to enjoy, District Distillery is making some seriously noteworthy bottles in St. Albert. Showing off floral and potent botanicals, with a clean, almost warming profile, but it’s in the mouth that the care and attention really come through with spice and a rather mellow finish. Perfect for gin-centric cocktails or drinks where you still want to taste the spirit, but not have it overwhelm or still be suitable in a simple drink. CSPC +856064 $45 at the distillery
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MAKING THE CASE
Wines to Grill For… PART 1 M
By TOM FIRTH
e? I’m absolutely a creature of habit. While I do change things up from time to time, when the nice – uhh- nicer weather is upon us, I’d much rather spend my time out of doors, whether it’s cooking, socializing, enjoying a nice book, or a nice glass or two. Plus, there is more than enough activity to get some fresh air through the system including a little yard work, getting a quick peddle in, or just strolling around town. Wine-wise, this time of year, I want to see and enjoy wines that match up perfectly with enjoying the outdoors, and this often involves being near the barbecue, or enjoying lighter fare that suits the day. We know in Alberta that we can just as easily enjoy a +30º day in the sunshine that might be hovering around 10-12º C when the sun dips. For wine picks, these are all great, well-priced bottles that are all-stars around an outdoor entertaining menu. Naturally, we have a few Argentine wines which fit the bill perfectly, but a smattering of American and French wines, Australian and Canadian bottles which contribute nicely to a fine evening in the backyard. Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.
Chartron et Trebuchet 2019 Cremant de Bourgogne, Burgundy, France
It’s hard to share how much I enjoyed trying this wine without being overly effusive, or excessive in my praise, but this was exactly the sort of well-crafted, well-priced sparkler that breaks our tendency to only think about sparkling wine for special occasions. Completely alive with bright fruits, mild toastiness, and gentle nuttiness on the nose and palate. A subtle, enjoyable wine for any day of the week. CSPC +804981 $24-28
Cantina Girlan Fass Nr.9 2020 Vernatsch Südtirol Alto Adige, Italy
Completely new to me, the grape here is vernatsch and almost completely unknown outside Alto Adige but that might be changing in the years to come. All around, this is a totally tasty and versatile wine that shows off plump and clean berry fruits, a finely expressed cocoa and earthy/spice back palate, and smooth and mild tannins. Fun to drink and a new experience, this will handle roast beef or game, and a wide variety of meaty sauces – even pizza! CSPC +853961 $27-30
Chartron et Trebuchet 2019 Pouilly-Fuisse Burgundy, France
A complete stunner of a French chardonnay showing off the very best of the fruit and some fantastic balance from start to finish. Clean, creamy fruits with plenty of tropical and apple presence but with a tightly wound acidity that complements those fruits, and a fine mineral tone. Completely at home on its own, but would be fantastic with poultry, lighter seafood dishes, or even a little charcuterie. CSPC +264945 $34-38 Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.
34 Culinaire | June 2022
Catena 2019 Malbec Mendoza, Argentina
One of the best-known Argentinean producers we see around these parts and for good reason. The wines always deliver! Classically malbec on the nose with a clean and almost dominant floral aroma to go with those black fruits. On the palate, a very well-balanced wine with harmony between the fruit, herb, and an almost chocolatey finish. A fine choice for bringing to the barbecue, it will work well with those rich proteins, but also would stand up to top quality pork sausage or smokies. CSPC +478727 $24-28
La Posta 2020 Pizzella Malbec Mendoza, Argentina
Murphy Goode 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon, California
Colomé 2019 Estate Malbec Calchaqui Valley, Argentina
La Crema 2019 Chardonnay Sonoma Coast, California
Bodegas Atalaya 2020 Almansa Laya, Spain
Bench 1775 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Okanagan Valley
Calliope 2019 Figure 8 Cabernet Merlot British Columbia
Tenuta di Castellaro 2018 L’Ottava Isola Etna, Italy
Wirra Wirra 2019 Church Block Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Merlot McLaren Vale, Australia
A wonderfully reasonable purchase for malbec lovers, La Posta is a barbecue star that punches above its weight. Deep plummy and cocoa style aromas with a pinch of dried herbs lead into a clean, fruit-driven palate with some nice and chewy tannins, and some lovely acids. An easy going (for malbec) bottle that would be an all-star at your next meat-centric barbecue – but also great with pizza or some hard cheese. CSPC +923789 $22-24
I’ve been seeing a lot of people in my social circles rediscovering this gem, and it’s an easy one to recommend for having great quality and a very reasonable price. Aromas are bright and fruit driven, with only a subtle oak or yeasty character, but on the palate a rich and creamy expression with well integrated lees notes, some prominent oak, and a long finish. A fine white that would be excellent with creamy dishes, but also that big steak you have planned. CSPC +366948 $29-33
A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot, at a heck of a price too, Calliope’s Figure 8 is a gem. Cherry and blackberry fruits on the nose with a clean, herbaceous perfume, it’s on the palate where things really come together. Generous, almost jammy fruits with a wild brambly fruit character for added depth, tied together with firm, meat-friendly tannins. Very accessible to drink and would be a fine choice with smoked meats, ribs, or a nice selection of hard cheese. CSPC +175976 $27-30
Cabernet is a grape that often takes itself too seriously, but this is certainly one of the easiest and most approachable examples I’ve seen recently. Good varietal expression with cherry and cassis fruits, a clean spiciness, a little bell pepper and liquorice, and some fairly soft tannins for cabernet sauvignon. A crowd-pleasing example that would be just at home with a brisket as it would with some thick homemade burgers. CSPC +739671 $22-24
A blend of garnacha and monastrell, two grapes that are firmly part of the fabric of Spanish wine, the 2020 Laya is a fine choice for those that love great barbecue-friendly wines. Bursting on the nose with brambly berry fruits but also a peppery spice and a light dried woodiness, the palate is alive with flavour and some slightly gritty tannins that nearly beg for those bigger dishes. Would handle flavourful pork dishes with ease, but also gooey, saucy ribs too. CSPC +742414 $20-24
Some of the most interesting and exciting to drink wines coming from Italy these days are coming from volcanic soils and vineyards and this is no exception. Made from the awesome variety nerello mascalese (and nerello cappuccio) which is a little lighter in the glass and in many ways similar in body to pinot noir. Authentic in the glass, this terroir laden bottle shows off savoury herbs, dry cherry and tobacco flavours and completely impeccable balance. Will blow minds with a homemade ragu or Bolognese sauce. CSPS +793795 $30-34
Malbec lovers take note, this is one of my favourite Argentinean producers, and a top shelf malbec for enthusiastic fans of this wonderful grape. Very dark in the glass with a deep, earthy aroma of dried herbal characters, smoke and rich loamy soil, but also a ripe black plum fruitiness. Lush and full of berry fruits on the palate with a huge tannin presence. A nice glass on its own, but better with that big, protein-rich dinner or special occasion meal. CSPC +956896 $31-35
There is a soft spot in my heart for several wines made by Bench 1775, and the cabernet merlot is making its way there too. Clean, expressive fruits lead off on the nose with an exceedingly mild bell pepper and olive aroma over just a whiff of smokiness. Big, chewy tannins with tight acids offset abundant fruits with graphite and cola undercurrents. A touch young to enjoy now, but this would be a treat to enjoy with good quality steaks or tender, saucy ribs. CSPC +483529 $27-30
Australia might just be the global leader in barbecue (though Argentina, Alberta, and some parts of the States might give them a run), and the Church Block is blending together three of the best grapes for a summertime grilling. In the end, it’s a full flavoured, slightly fruit forward red with a herbaceous and earthy expression too. An easy-going red that will work with dishes from the smoker or gas grill (but my money is on gourmet-style cheeseburgers!). CSPC +19380 $22-25 June 2022 | Culinaire 35
E TC E TE R A . . .
Flora Fromage
Chef Janice Buckingham started experimenting with nuts as an alternative to dairy in 2018, and was blown away by the flavour and texture she could achieve with cashews. We’re blown away by her Garlic & Herb Macadamia cheese and her Truffle Black Pepper cheese, both handmade from organic and fair-trade nuts, used in dishes just as you would goat or cream cheese. 130 g $10-$16, florafromage.com for Alberta stockists and residential deliveries.
Too Good To Go App
Since launching in Calgary two months ago, Too Good To Go has already helped more than 100 stores save more than 7,000 meals, and now they’ve launched in Edmonton too. Estimates are that 40-58 percent of food we produce becomes waste, so markets, restaurants, and grocery stores post when they have leftover products, which are then put in significantly discounted, $5 to $10 ‘surprise bags’. When you purchase a bag, you’re given a time for pickup – it’s a “win-win-win” for businesses, consumers, and the planet! toogoodtogo.ca.
naturSource Nuts
Garry and Trudi Oberfield founded naturSource in Quebec in 1980, and take high quality, natural ingredients and turn them into delicious and healthy snacks. We can’t stop popping their Tamari Almonds –crunchy, salty, and full of umami; and Olio d’Oliva premium almonds with extra virgin olive oil and sea salt, both addictive! We also love that they’re all dry-roasted and not fried. At Sobeys, Safeway, Costco, and Save On Foods, with excellent recipes for cookies, cakes, and salads, at natursource.com. $12-15 Yonedas Chocolate BBQ Rub
Two of our Edmonton faves, You Need A BBQ and Jacek Chocolate, have joined forces to make a complex, chocolate Mexican BBQ rub – and we love it! Think lightly spiced mole – southern-style, rich, sweet, and salty flavours that are perfect for your beef, pork, and chicken – and terrific with black beans as well. Do try the other three Yonedas rubs too: smoky and spicy Gold, sweet and savoury Red, and the brighter White Rub. Around $14-15 at all their retail locations and online at youneedabbq.com and jacekchocolate.com.
Booze and Vinyl
Brother and sister, André and Tenaya Darlington, are back with Volume 2 of Booze & Vinyl – pairing 70 more notable albums, from 1956 to 2016, with 140 new cocktail recipes. Chapters take us through Rockin’ albums, to Beats, Mellow, Jazzy & Bluesy, each with a Side A and Side B cocktail, and a chapter with tips for making great drinks, setting up a home bar, and more. What to drink with Janis Joplin, The Gypsy Kings, Metallica, and Loretta Lynn? Booze & Vinyl has the answers! Running Press $33. 36 Culinaire | June 2022
Booze and Vinyl: A Music-and-MixedDrinks Matching Game
Now there’s a game version of Booze & Vinyl too. A great icebreaker at your next party, the pack includes 100 cards for you to match the music and cocktail, as well as a little book with 50 recipes and notes on the music. What pairs with Rolling Stone’s Sticky Fingers? Roxy Music’s Avalon? Petty’s Full Moon Fever? Abba’s Gold? Play the game and find out, and have fun with it too! $22
Mott’s Clamato Reserve - Cucumber Basil
Mott’s have released a new premium Clamato Reserve – Cucumber Basil flavour, with cucumber purée and basil as well as fire-roasted jalapeno purée, onion, garlic, horseradish, red and green peppers, and all the other flavourful, natural ingredients that make up their Reserve, without the use of any artificlal flavour or colours. And we're really enjoying the bright, fresh taste that it’s bringing to our Caesars this summer. 1 L around $6. 50 Things to Bake Before You Die
Hey, we all have a bucket list, and we all love hearing (insert number) of (blank) you should experience before shuffling off this mortal coil. So why not baking? Why not indeed? Wonderfully short and still packed with delicious, and possible at home treats to enjoy, Allyson Reedy has assembled a likely batch of suitable classics like Apple Pie (p.79) and Carrot Cake (p.71), but also the exotic like Chocolate Babka (p.100) or Pistachio Cheesecake Bars (p.113). Ulysses $34
Wines Of British Columbia Online Wine Course
Wine Growers British Columbia (formerly BC Wine Institute) is offering a series of educational courses to increase our knowledge of BC wine – and now Culinaire readers can take Level One online at your own pace, at no charge! Head to winebc.com, and in the drop-down menu go to ‘Ambassador Program’ under ‘Education’, and enter the code BCWINE22 for complimentary access to the online course, and become a certified BC Wine Ambassador.
Nourished by Heirloom
SAIT graduate, Darian Pestell, has created a beautiful range of organic seasonings – and we’re impressed. ‘Umami’ is exactly what it promises, and we’ve used it instead of salt in many recipes - Umami popcorn is a must! ‘Taco’ is now our go-to for chilis too, and ‘Everything’ is crunchy, garlicy, and makes a terrific crust on proteins and sprinkled on and in many other dishes. 75 g $13, nourishedbyheirloom.com to order and for stockists.
Canadian Club and Ginger Ale, Canada
Ever just feel that a product should have already been out there long before you actually see it? Enter Canadian Club’s Ginger Ale ready to drink. Not quite the classic rye & ginger, but we get some of the most famous whisky in Canada ready to roll with spicy sweet ginger ale in an exceedingly convenient package. Perfectly refreshing from the fridge or in a glass over ice on those hot days. CSPC +862076 $16-$17 (6-pack cans).
June 2022 | Culinaire 37
O PE N TH AT B OT TLE
...with
Bruce Soley BY LINDA GARSON PHOTO BY DONG KIM
“I've been a keen follower of history ever since I was a little kid,” says Bruce Soley. “I used to read encyclopedias at night, and my sister used to tease me.” He grew up in a family that loves food: “I basically grew up in my mom's kitchen; she is a brilliant cook, so I’ve really been cooking my whole life.” Her father was a third-generation butcher who had left South Wales after World War I to homestead in Vermilion, and opened a butcher shop in Lacombe. Soley’s father moved from Edmonton to Lacombe around 1949, and with his grandfather, opened ‘Soley's Hardware and Furniture’, which they ran for 50 years; it’s now a Home Hardware store. Soley came to Calgary in 1984 to study history and geography, and on leaving university in the late ‘80s, found it was hard to get work, and he fell into the restaurant business, and was hooked. He cooked for five years at The Keg before switching to the front of house and bartending, and then took a job at The Wine Gallery in Bankers Hall, where he discovered an interest in wine. He joined River Café in 1999 to run the bar, started sommelier school in 2005, becoming a “somm’ in 2007, and took over the wine director duties in 2011. What bottle is Soley saving for a special occasion? He produces a bottle of Marqués de Riscal Rioja Gran Reserva 1964. “I have all kinds of bottles, but this one's really cool,” he says. “Sal (Howell, River Café’s founder and proprietor) gave me this bottle; it was in the cellar when I started here. I'm a huge Rioja fan. I love the wines, and the history of the bottle is remarkable.” “It’s 58 years old; it's been in the 38 Culinaire | June 2022
bottle through the Cuban missile crisis, the Vietnam war, the Yom Kippur war, the Beatles, fascist Spain, the fall of communism… the nineties,” he continues. “The history this bottle has watched go by is just amazing.” And the story of the bottle gets even more amazing - it’s survived two floods, one in 2005 and one in 2013. “In 2005, we had about three feet of water in the basement, and it wiped out all the infrastructure on the island,” Soley explains. “So if we didn't have that flood in 2005 it would have been way worse in 2013, because after 2005 they redid all the power, the sewers, and water supply. If it hadn't been done, in 2013 we probably would never have been able to reopen that year.” The flood was June 19 and River Café reopened the second week of August which is truly remarkable because there was nine feet of water in the basement. Soley tells how the police came to help them get out as the water was coming in fast. They threw their last case of Bordeaux at the top of the stairs and then had to go, returning four days later when the water receded.
“It was just a complete disaster; this whole island was covered in a foot of glacial silt. It's like potter's clay, when it dries, it's hard as rock,” he adds. “It covered all the labels, and the wine was all underwater for four days. It wasn't necessarily spoiled, but because the water's full of everything from diesel fuel to bacteria, you never know. And then the next day it was 28/30 degrees, and the humidity was unbelievable - we could see the mould growing in the cellar walls by the hour. Everything was gutted in the basement right down to the concrete, we tore everything out and it all had to be completely redone.” Soley inventoried all the wine that they were able to save, as well as around 2,500 bottles of highly collectable wine that was lost. And when will he open the bottle? “They're remarkable, they show really well, so I'll probably open it when the wine is 60 [years old]. There's only two more years, can you believe that? It's crazy,” Soley laughs. “Or maybe when I retire, I’ve waited this long. I don't think I'll ever “retire” retire, but I’ll probably retire from the restaurant business.”
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