Any Way You Slice It

VEGETABLE TIAN

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

Cooking in late summer/early fall is all about embodying the essence of the best-tasting vegetables. The days of garden-fresh produce are numbered, so this is the time to dive deep into all they have to offer in terms of flavour.

One such dish that makes fabulous use of tomatoes, zucchini and eggplant is tian.

This iconic dish originates from Provence - the sun-drenched region of France.

Originally, a “Tian” described glazed earthenware vessels from Provence, used for both cooking and serving, as it went directly from the oven to the table. These types of sturdy vessels are usually large, shallow, and meant to withstand high temperatures.

Back when homes didn’t have their own individual ovens, families would take their Tian, which was used to cook a variety of foods, to the bakers’ ovens to cook in the residual heat after the bread was baked. As time went on, it became popular to use the tian dishes for cooking layers of Provencal vegetables: tomatoes, zucchini and eggplant. Eventually, the dish gave its name to this culinary preparation of arranging thinly sliced vegetables, a goodly amount of a decent olive oil, and lots of garlic and herbs.

Tian is colourful, loaded with flavour, and the perfect side dish to your late summer feasts. While it is fairly simple to prepare, there are a few tips and tricks to help it become a success. When picking out the vegetables, try to choose tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplant with a similar circumference. This could be tricky as eggplants and zucchini can range in size.

I cut some slices of eggplant in half, which helped. I also stacked a few zucchini slices together. Ultimately, you want the vegetables to be relatively the same height in the dish. Be sure to pack the slices together tightly. The vegetables will shrink as they cook, but if they are tightly packed, there won’t be any huge gaps.

A tian is a very simple dish composed of alternating layers of vegetables baked in the oven, but it can also be rather dry if not cooked properly. Adding a layer of onions in the bottom of the dish will bring extra moisture to help soften the vegetables, and add gorgeous flavour. Don’t be shy with the olive oil either. The final drizzle of ¼ cup (60 mL) will ensure the vegetables are tender, and well as create those delectable crispy edges.

The cooking time of at least 90 minutes may seem extreme, but it's necessary for the vegetables to cook in their own garlicinfused juices. Just like love, you can’t hurry a tian! And lastly, adding a small ramekin of water to the oven while the tian bakes creates steam, which will also prevent the vegetables from drying out.

Tender and bold with late summer flavour, serve tian alongside roasted or grilled chicken, fish, or meat. Have some crusty bread alongside to help sop up those succulent juices.

Vegetable Tian

Serves 6-8

1 large onion, thinly sliced into half moons 1 garlic clove, minced 2 Tbs (30 mL) extra virgin olive oil Pinch salt 2 medium eggplants, cut into 6-7 mm slices 3 medium zucchini (green and/or yellow) cut into 6-7 mm slices 6 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into 6-7 mm slices ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp pepper 3 garlic cloves, minced ¼ cup (60 mL) extra virgin olive oil ½ tsp herbs de Provence OR 5 sprigs fresh thyme, chopped

1. Preheat the oven to 350º F. 2. Add the sliced onion, minced garlic, and olive oil to the bottom of a 22 x 28 cm (9 x 11”) ceramic or earthenware baking dish. Toss to evenly coat. Sprinkle with salt. 3. Arrange the eggplant, zucchini, and tomato slices vertically on top of the onion in alternating layers. The slices should be arranged tightly in neat rows. If some of the vegetables are smaller in circumference, such as the zucchini, you can add 2-3 slices. If you see any gaps, you can fill in with small slices of zucchini too. 4. Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the garlic, making sure most of it falls in between the slices. Drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with the herbs. 5. Cover the dish tightly with aluminum foil. Poke a tiny hole in the foil with a toothpick so steam can escape. Fill a small oven-safe ramekin with water and place it and the vegetable dish in the oven. 6. Bake for 50 minutes, then remove the foil and bake again for another 40 -50 minutes until the vegetables are fully cooked and wrinkled on top. Optional: To add additional charred bits, place under the broiler for a couple of minutes. 7. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, ‘Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published.