Farm to Table

A concept whose time has come

Our Edmonton correspondent, Lucy Haines, is taking a look at the food and drink trends, developments, and openings – everything buzzworthy – in and around Edmonton.

Whether you live in the area or are stopping by for a visit, food and drink are some of life's great pleasures, so let's celebrate it!

Nowhere is the concept of 'farm to table' more evident than when out in the country, fields of green and gold shimmering in the breeze, and produce ripening in the Alberta sun. There are cattle over yonder and a couple of horses eating hay in a nearby pen: these are the sights, smells, and 3D reality of farms.

Cut to a long table dinner set up in a nearby barn, fine China adorned with charred broccoli, tomatoes and coal-cooked beef tenderloin prepared to perfection by local chefs - a delicious reminder of the benefits of supporting local farmers and

BY LUCY HAINES

producers in their endeavours. But unique events like this (held regularly through the summer months at the Old Red Barn near Leduc) are just one representation of 'farm to table'. How do we take the concept and translate it to consumer's tables in a way that benefits all?

From growers to butcher shops, restaurants, and Agri-tourism advocates - the numbers supporting farm to table are growing, and it's easy to see why. Especially in the last couple of years, when the pandemic, climate change and political unrest have affected fuel prices, the supply chain, and the labour market, it just makes sense to buy fresh and local. Supporting the area economy and reducing the carbon footprint that comes with shipping foods from afar is another plus.

For Blair Lebsack and Caitlin Fulton of Edmonton's Rge Rd. restaurant and adjacent retail space, The Butchery, it's the only way. The couple is committed to sourcing all produce and meat directly from the farm - suppliers like Lakeside Farmstead, Prairie Gardens, Redtail Farms, Nature's Green Acres, Gold Forest Grains - and their business has grown right alongside the small-scale farmers they work with.

“The relationships we have with growers and producers ensures our food security, though sometimes, we have to explain to customers why a certain item may not always be available,” Lebsack says. “On one occasion, the farmer said the bison was in the field and didn't want to get into the trailer, so we didn't have bison that week.

But what's key to us and, increasingly, to the consumer is that we know the farmer's practices and values - the breed of cow, the date it has gone to the abattoir, and then to us the very next day. We don't use big operation farms - we have control over every aspect of the animal and bypass the system of mass production - it's a mutual

respect between the farmer/producer, the product and us.”

With The Butchery, the pair is making the link from farm to our kitchen tables with fresh cuts and advice on how to use them: things like charcuterie and deli meats, butters, lard, cheeses, and schmaltz from the same farms that supply the restaurant. Fulton explains how education is a key piece of the farm to table movement; why sometimes things are more expensive, (though sometimes not, as the restaurant buys and uses the whole animal for the most cost-effective results).

Edmonton chef Paul Shufelt says it's back to the basics after the pandemic; a focus on seasonal cooking and ‘using what's in our backyard’. With his recently opened Hayloft Steak + Fish (supplied by local farmers and mongers) in the city's Cameron Heights neighbourhood, and a fourth location of Woodshed Burgers, the long-time chef says challenges of the supply chain outside the local market makes restauranteurs want to do even more to nurture the relationships and reliability of food supply from Alberta farmers and growers.

“Farm to table isn't just a sentiment. It's important for us to shorten the steps between the farmer and what is put on the plate,” he says.

Shufelt points to a wedge salad on his menu - the lettuce, tomato, pepper, cucumber and sunflower seeds that he could truck in from a California warehouse. “But the price here is comparable - there has to be value on the financial side - so we've used Doef's Greenhouses out of Lacombe since day one. We've built our brand on shopping responsibly, using the whole animal and sourcing good ingredients from growers. Some things can be challenging to find locally - citrus, for example, but when you can, why not stay close to home?”

Agri-tourism operators like Melissa and Matt Schur have made it their mission to tell the story of the farmer. Noticing a big disconnect between consumers and producers, the couple uses the Old Red Barn to bridge the knowledge gap through farm (or flame) to table dinners, supporting women in agriculture by selling their products in the Old Red Barn farm store, and offering tours as part of initiatives like Alberta Open Farm Days.

After meeting with Edmonton's ‘Kitchen by Brad’ owner Brad Smoliak and launching their farm to table dinners in 2017, the Schur's are ever passionate about making those connections between consumer, producer, and chef. Matt says hosting over 1,000 events at the Old Red Barn is evidence people are responding to the message.

Alberta Open Farm Days is essentially an open house with producers and farmers to learn about where our food comes from and the importance of rural sustainability: think berry picking, visiting a craft brewery or distillery, or understanding the contributions of beekeeping to the agricultural industry. When else might Albertans learn the province is the largest honey producer in Canada, and the third largest in North America?

The government has also launched the Agri-Food Investment and Growth Strategy and, in the last three years, has invested in some 200 projects including: plant protein, greenhouses, AgriTechnology, and emerging sectors like hemp and cannabis.

And some knowledge is coming the way of all Albertans with the Know Your Food trailer, Ag for Life's mobile education unit aiming to provide Albertans with knowledge about the province's agricultural sector. According to those behind the initiative, the trailer will help cultivate a deeper connection to Alberta food, where it comes from and the challenging work that goes into producing it. Watch for the trailer when it comes to your part of the province.

Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.