Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

Exploring Philippine Cuisine

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOGRAPHS BY DONG KIM

Kumain ka na ba? – Have you eaten? – is the common greeting used in the Philippines, which should tell you right away that food plays an important role in Filipino society. Their cuisine is as vast and varied as the more than 100 ethnolinguistic groups found on the 7,641 islands that make up the Philippines, and reflects the culture, geography, and history of the country. To get a better sense of the breadth of Filipino cuisine, we met with Philippine Consul General, Zaldy B. Patron, and asked him to walk us through it.

“Early Filipino society recognized food as an important component of their societies and used it to mark significant occasions,” he explains. “European explorers recounted the generous meals prepared for them, and how they signified the high status of visitors, something that still occurs in Philippine households today.”

“People welcome their relatives, friends and, sometimes, even strangers into their homes to partake in the food they prepare during the many festival celebrations that occur throughout the Philippines. Food, therefore, becomes a means to build social relations within the communities,” Consul General Patron adds.

Even the way food is eaten is linked to social relations. “Pre-Hispanic Filipinos were recorded to eat with their hands, something which is still done even today and is considered a communal experience.”

Influences from China, India, Japan, Spain, and America are evident in the dishes found in Filipino homes. Depending on where you are in the country determines what is prepared. “Most Filipino dishes have either pork, chicken, fish, or other seafood. Coconut milk, shrimp paste, garlic, vinegar, fish sauce, and tamarind paste, are some essential ingredients and condiments,” says Consul General Patron.

For Filipinos, breakfast can be a simple affair of bread, cheese, and coffee, sometimes accompanied by dried meat, fried fish, and fried rice with fried egg. Lunch and dinner are variations on dishes made with vegetables, meat, or fish. And there’s more, too, he says: “Filipinos love to snack in the morning and afternoon, which means some of us can eat up to five times a day.” Snacks range from sweet rice cakes to turon, made with saba banana and brown sugar, to halo-halo, shaved ice with sweet fruit and toppings.

If you haven’t eaten yet – or even if you have – you’re in for a treat! Alberta boasts a robust Filipino culture, with amazing chefs and restaurants in both Calgary and Edmonton. They’ve shared with us here some of their favourite dishes, all of which are reflections of the rich culture and community they come from.

For Chef Ryan Tiqui, co-founder and Owner of Calgary’s Amihan Grill + Bakeshop, his father is his biggest influence when it comes to cooking: “He somehow has this magic of turning simple dishes into extraordinary meals, and I try to mimic the same passion in cooking that my dad had.”

Because it draws from other cultures, a sense of adventure is a must when it comes to cooking Filipino cuisine, says Chef Ryan. “Don’t be afraid to experiment with flavours and put a personal touch on the food.”

His favourite dish at Amihan is the Chicken Insal – barbecue chicken marinated in lemongrass, vinegar, and spices. “The lemongrass flavour reminds me of my dad’s favourite dish, Lutung Salè Manuk,” he explains.

A dish native to the Province of Pampanga, Lutung Salè Manuk (Lemongrass Chicken Soup) is a simple, comforting dish for cold-weather days. Chef Ryan advises to sauté your chicken very well before adding the water and chicken broth to ensure the flavour of the chicken in incorporated.

Lutung Salè Manuk” (Lemongrass Chicken Soup)

Serves 4-5

2 Tbs (30 mL) cooking oil 2 Tbs garlic 1 cup onion 1 Tbs ginger 1 whole chicken, chopped into serving pieces (free-range, if available) 3¾ cups (900 mL) chicken broth 1 2/3 cups (400 mL) water (add as needed) 8 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, stalks pounded, and leaves tied in a knot 2 Tbs (30 mL) fish sauce 1 Tbs salt (adjust if needed) 1 tsp pepper (adjust according to preference) 1 bunch spinach (optional) 1. Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. 2. Sauté garlic, onion, and ginger until fragrant. 3. Add chicken until juices come out, stir occasionally to prevent from sticking. 4. Add chicken broth, water and lemongrass and bring to a boil. 5. Season with fish sauce, salt, and pepper. 6. Lower heat and simmer until chicken is completely cooked, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a serving bowl. Add spinach before serving. Serve hot and if you like, serve with a side of steamed jasmine rice.

At first glance, the menu at Calgary’s Streetside Grill & Café seems to hinge on more Western-style and European cuisines. Dive a little deeper, however, and you’ll find a handful of shining Filipino gems. Thanks to the global experiences of Chef Marlon, guests enjoy their own global experience. when cooking any Filipino dish, don’t forget the soy sauce, brown sugar, and Philippine lime. And, perhaps most importantly, he adds: “You have to sing while cooking Filipino foods for it to become authentic!”

“What influences my cooking is the availability of ingredients in the market to create my own fusion dish out of the traditional dishes including the Filipino dishes,” he explains.

When he cooks, his mother is his source of inspiration, and it brings back childhood memories of helping his mother cook and feed the farmers working in the family’s rice fields. “I will never forget the joy and satisfaction on the farmer's faces every time they get a taste of my mother's cooking.”

At Streetside, Chef Marlon’s go-to is his version of Tapsilog, a popular breakfast dish from the Philippines consisting of tapa (beef), sinangag (garlic fried rice), and itlog (fried egg). “It reminds me of where my roots come from,” he adds.

Keeping your workplace clean as you cook is a must, says Chef Marlon, and Tapsilog

Serves 6

1 Kg beef sirloin, sliced thln ¾ cup (180 mL) water 6 eggs ¾ cup (180 mL) cooking oil

Marinade

6 Tbs (90 mL) soy sauce 1½ cup (360 mL) pineapple juice 12 cloves garlic, crushed 4 Tbs brown sugar ½ tsp ground white pepper

Sinangag (Garlic Rice)

10 cloves garlic, chopped 10 cups cooked rice 2 tsp salt

1. Place the beef in a large bowl. Combine all the marinade ingredients and pour over beef. Mix well and cover the bowl. Place in the fridge and marinate overnight. 2. Cook the garlic fried rice (slnangag na kanln) by heating 3 tablespoons (45 mL) cooking oil in a pan. Add chopped garlic. Cook until garlic turns light brown. Add the cooked rice. Stir fry for 3 minutes. 3. Season with salt. Continue to stir-fry for 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside. 4. Heat a pan and pour the marinated beef into it, including the marinade. Add ¾ cup (180 mL) water. Let the mixture boil. Cover the pan and continue to cook until the liquid reduces to half. 5. Add 3 tablespoons (45 mL) cooking oil into the mixture. Continue to cook until the liquid completely evaporates. Fry the beef in remaining oil until medium brown. Set aside. 6. Fry the egg by pouring 2 tablespoons of oil (30 mL) into a pan. Crack two eggs and sprinkle salt on top. Cook for 2 minutes to make sunny side eggs. Continue with remaining eggs. 7. Arrange the beef, sinangag (garlic rice) and fried egg on a large plate to form Tapsllog. 8. Served with vinegar as dipping sauce for the beef. Garnish with fruit.

Calgary’s Pacific Hut Restaurant has you covered for traditional Filipino dishes and desserts morning, noon, and night. Growing up in the Philippines, Chef Centene was influenced by his parents, who showed him how to create his first dish.

He says that traditional Filipino dishes are made by measuring your ingredients but then tasing and adding to the dish as you work. “My biggest suggestion for those who want to learn how to cook Filipino food is not to set boundaries.”

Among the dishes he prepares in the restaurant (and there’s a lot!), his favourite to cook is the Pacific Hut Ribs Special. But if you’re just starting out, he suggests trying your hand at something like adobo and beef kaldireta. “This is one of the main dishes in Filipino cuisine, and it’s the first one my parents taught me how to cook.”

Best accompanied with bread or steamed white rice, Chef Centene’s recipe for Beef Kaldireta is made with several ingredients you probably already have in your fridge or pantry, and it’s perfect for simmering on cooler afternoons and evenings. Chef’s Centene’s parting advice? “Don’t be afraid to experiment with this dish!”

Beef Kaldireta

Serves 4

2 Tbs (30 mL) cooking oil 1 medium onion, chopped 1 tsp garlic. minced 500 g beef, cubed 4 Tbs (60 mL) tomato paste 120 g liver paté 2 medium potatoes, cubed 2 medium carrots, chopped 2 medium red/green bell peppers ¼ tsp ground cloves 2 bay leaves, dried or fresh 1½ tsp salt ½ tsp ground black pepper 1. Heat cooking oil and sauté onion and garlic together with the beef. 2. Let it simmer for 60 minutes until tender. 3. Add tomato paste and liver pate. 4. When the meat is almost tender, add potatoes, carrots, and bell pepper. 5. Add cloves, bay leaves, salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer for about 15 mins. 6. Serve while hot.

As Jean de Jesus explains, Edmonton’s Manila Grill Express was the dream of her mother, Aurea, who had many influences growing up surrounded by a large family. “Food was a love language for her,” says Jean. “She showed her love to others by cooking large homemade feasts.”

Patience is key when it comes to preparing Filipino food, says Jean. “Some dishes need a little bit more preparation so if you have the time, get your family involved with cutting vegetables and make it an event!” As with any cuisine, fresh is best, and Jean advises sourcing your ingredients from local butchers and farmer’s markets.

Among Jean and Aurea’s favourite dishes on the menu is Crispy Pata. “It’s a showstopper of a dish that is usually only brought out during a special occasion due to time and preparation. However, with the growing popularity of the air fryer, this can also be made easily at home!” Don’t rush the boiling process, advises Jean, and allow the meat to dry before frying: “This will result in the juiciest, crispiest crispy pata!”

Crispy Pata (Pork)

Serves 2

12 cups (3 L) water 3 Tbs salt 2 Tbs peppercorns 4 cloves garlic 1 onion, quartered 2 dried bay leaves 1 whole pork hock or pork knuckle 6 cups (1.5 L) cooking oil 1. Pour water in a cooking pot and bring to the boil. 2. Add salt, peppercorns, garlic, onion, and bay leaves. 3. Place the cleaned pork hock in the boiling water then simmer until the leg becomes tender, about 1 hour depending on size. 4. Remove the leg from the cooking pot and set aside until the temperature goes down. The dryer the skin, the crispier! 5. To deep fry: Heat oil in a clean large cooking pot to 375º F. Once oil is hot, deep fry the dried pork hock. Cook until one side becomes crispy, and then carefully flip to crisp the other side. Use a splatter guard if you have and use caution as this is a large piece of meat being fried. To air fry: Brush dried pork hock with oil and put it in air fryer at 450º F for 10 minutes then flip and cook for another 10 minutes. Lower temperature to 350º F, and air fry the pata again, but only for 10 minutes! Let cook, cut then enjoy!!

Spicy Soy Vinegar dipping sauce

½ cup (120 mL) vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) soy sauce 1½ tsp black pepper 1 small red onion, chopped finely 2 birds eye chillies

Despite growing up surrounded by the cooking of his mother and grandmother, Chef Ariel del Rosario of Edmonton’s Filistix didn’t realize he had a passion for food until he started reading Gourmet Magazine. These days he’s inspired by Filipino chefs and restaurateurs levelling up Filipino cuisine on a global scale.

“For far too long, Filipino restaurants serviced only the Filipino community exclusively,” Chef Ariel says. “My mission, as with these new chefs, is to introduce and educate the dining public outside of the Filipino community to the deliciousness of Filipino cuisine.”

“Filipino food is the original fusion cuisine,” Chef Ariel explains. “It’s a mix of Spanish, Malay, Chinese, and American cuisines.” Get a feel for the four flavour profiles – salty, sour (acidic), sweet, and ‘funky’, and you’re on the right path.

Chef Ariel shares a recipe for Sinigang na Baboy, a sour, tamarind-based soup with pork ribs and veggies. “This is actually my wife's recipe but I'm stealing it(!) She learned this from her lola (grandmother) and it is purely by feel and by taste.”

It takes time, but it’s well worth the result. “Don't be afraid to use the readymade Mama Sita's or Knorr Sinigang powder,” adds Chef Ariel, and adjust the amount you use to your taste. Pork Rib Tamarind Soup (Sinigang na Baboy)

Serves 4-5

2 kg pork ribs (side or baby back is fine, or even spareribs) 1 onion, sliced 4-5 medium tomatoes, diced or wedges (whatever you feel like) 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) fish sauce 1 packet of Mama Sita's or Knorr Sinigang powder 1 Chinese eggplant, cut into medallions 1 small daikon radish, peeled and cut into medallions 10-12 okra

1. Cut pork ribs into individual ribs. 2. Fill a large soup pot 2/3 of the way with water and on high, bring to a boil uncovered. 3. Add the pork ribs, turn down to medium and return to a boil, skimming off as much impurities as possible, about 15 minutes. 4. Add onion and tomatoes and simmer for another 15 minutes. 5. Add fish sauce and continue to simmer for 30-45 minutes or until the pork is tender and falling off the bone. 6. Add the Sinigang powder, eggplant, and daikon, and simmer for another 15 minutes. 7. Turn the heat off and finally add the okra and cover with a lid for 5-10 minutes until okra is cooked through. 8. Serve with steaming hot rice and side dish of fish sauce with Thai chili.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories.