Making the Case

MAKING THE CASE for Uncommon

Grapes, Regions, and Expressions

By TOM FIRTH

here is a certain level of uncertainty that comes with fall. Specifically, even in November there might T still be a few crisp, beautiful days where it might just be shirt sleeve weather, I’ll plan at least one frost-free day to go up on the roof to put up the Christmas lights, and

I’ll have the shovels and scrapers ready to go for the inevitable, ugly, shoe drop of winter rearing its head.

For November, I’m recommending wines that are in many cases a little different or at least a little off the path. Not to worry though if you are feeling a little less adventurous, we have some very agreeable California reds along with some classic European bottles – but otherwise, a selection of relatively uncommon grapes, regions, or expressions. Enjoy!

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Chateaux de Bellevue 2018 Morgon Les Charmes, Burgundy, France

Morgon is one of the Crus of Beaujolais, and miles upon miles away from the bland, if “neat” fall release known as Beaujolais Nouveau. A bigger, more intense wine made from gamay, here a cherry laden, slightly brambly, flavourful wine that has a mild, simple perfume character on the nose and a chewy, slightly raspberry ripple flavour profile. Bloody delicious. CSPC +857709 $38-42

Château Mourgues du Gres 2021 Galets Dores, Costières de Nîmes, France

A blend of roussanne, white grenache, and vermentino, that just comes together almost perfectly. Lifted and nuanced aromas with lime, spice, and mineral, with a wonderful perfumed, floral character. On the palate, this really sings with crisp acids, a balance of citrus-style fruits, and a long finish. An excellent bottle that should be looked for. Match with grilled poultry, or lighter freshwater fish if possible. CSPC +870089 $26-28

LUI 2020 Pinot Noir, Mendoza, Argentina

In the heart of malbec country, we don’t see a lot of pinot noirs being made in Mendoza, Argentina. A recent Judge’s Selection at the 2022 Alberta Beverage Awards, this pinot carries some riper, plusher berry fruits with a mild leafiness on the nose. A lighter to medium bodied expression of pinot with slightly chunky tannins would make this a finer choice for salmon dishes or lighter meat-based sauces. CSPC +852291 $26-28

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

Bacio Divino 2018 Pazzo, California

A red blend of sangiovese with a host of classic California red varieties, this is a juicy, layered red that is best described as sinuous or even sultry. What really takes place here is a wellcrafted red with plummy, rich fruits, a bit of spice and a lot of charm. The right sort of wine that impresses the enthusiast, but also generous enough for the occasional imbiber to enjoy. Pair up with any grilled or smoked red meats, richer, meaty pastas, or cheese. CSPC +712290 $42-45

Château de Javernand 2018 Chiroubles Indigène, Burgundy, France

Chiroubles is another of the Crus of Beaujolais and often a little lighter than some of the others and better consumed a little younger too. Meant entirely as a compliment, this is a great wine to enjoy in the morning with milder raspberry fruits, a mild spicy backbone, and a wonderful weight on the palate. A completely refreshing, polished, and tasty bottle. CSPC +828073 $35-39

Secreto de Viu Manent 2019 Gran Reserva Carmenère, Colchagua, Chile

Rarely a go-to grape around my house, carmenère can exhibit a leaner, more green bell pepper or capsicum range of flavours and aromas. Delightfully peppery spice and quite dilly on the nose with a clean olive and bell pepper note, while flavours are blackberries and coffee bean with a good weight and finish. I’d love this with barbecue, especially with boar or other game meats. CSPC +369686 $22-25

Marqués de Cáceres 2020 Verdejo Rueda, Spain

Verdejo by the glass is a fine pleasure whenever it’s offered on a wine list. This awesome grape never fails to show off how cool and different it is. Almonds and cedar with a little bit of a figgy note, but also lemon and honey on the nose. In the mouth, crisp and clean with bright stone and tropical fruits with a big, zesty finish. A beautiful match with almonds or good quality nuts, shellfish, or lighter poultry dishes. CSPC +774466 $20-22

Tomato Wheels NV Lambrusco Emilia-Romagna, Italy

Feeling a little bored in your wine choices? Maybe it’s time to try this sparkling red wine from Italy. Chock a block with crushed blackberry fruits with a bit of a raw, exceedingly fresh flavour and aroma profile along with a crisp acid and lively mousse. Quite dry on the palate with a touch of mocha and jelly towards the finish. Exactly the sort of wine that perfectly evokes back road adventures on a summertime day. CSPC +871967 $37-40

Waterkloof 2019 Seriously Cool Cinsault Stellenbosch, South Africa

Cinsault is another grape that is off the beaten path for a lot of consumers, but in many ways, it can be fairly similar to grenache in body and fruit. Here, the grape is made in 100 percent stainless steel letting all sorts of tart berry come through, but still showcasing all these lovely spice notes and a longish, cherry and chocolate finish. Pairing is pretty flexible, but pork tenderloins or even pulled pork might be the way to go. CSPC +817267 $22-25

Andreas Bender 2021 Scheurebe Mosel, Germany

Likely, “scheurebe” isn’t in the pantheon of common grapes you look for at the liquor store, but this Germanic variety is making small, but significant strides with people looking for interesting and tasty whites. Look for tropical style fruits with apples and quince and plenty of zesty, citrus tones. Quite dry, and in many ways, akin to a sauvignon blanc, but a little juicier and with richer textures. Very nice, very exciting to drink. CSPC +862668 $23-26

Sogrape Silk & Spice 2019 Red Blend Portugal

The Portuguese are masters of the blend. Blessed with a bevy of unique, indigenous grapes rarely seen outside their borders, they excel at producing full-bodied authentic wines. Here, the Silk & Spice is based around touriga nacional and baga but also alicante and a little syrah too. A little smoky with dried herb and deep fruit on the palate, the finish is a little more jammy than many Portuguese reds we’re likely to see, but this is definitely a quaffable bottle. CSPC +808224 $30-34

Janzen 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California

It’s all too easy to remember how seriously good cabernet sauvignon can be – but forget how much of a pleasure it can be to drink. The 2018 Janzen showboats with this rather novel concept bringing all the classic flavours and aromas of good cabernet, but on the palate it’s often opulent, refined, and it all comes together perfectly. So perfectly, that it’s drinking wickedly now, but would still shine with a few more years in the cellar. CSPC +845244 $100-110

Road 13 2019 GSM, Okanagan Valley British Columbia

A classic blend typically found in the Rhone Valley of France, but also to great effect in places like Australia – and the warmer climates of Canada’s Okanagan Valley. A bold and spicy little number with white pepper, liquorice root, tar, but also generous currant and cherry fruits. Flavours are very consistent with the nose, but full, prominent tannins work nicely here making for a solid, and tasty bottle that will work with saucy ribs, rich sauces, or smoked meats. Yum! CSPC +579938 $33-37