Rum Retakes the Limelight

BY TOM FIRTH

Rum languished in many circles for a long time, as most examples gracing our shelves or cabinets were overly sweet, rather simple in execution, or spiced rums more similar to a rum raisin lifesaver than to an authentic, crafted rum experience. These days, quality rums abound and many bottles are rich, complex spirits that can be enjoyed neat like a fine cognac or whisky and equally as good in a mixed drink or cocktail. While many of us might be pining for a beach getaway or a break from the winter chill, here are a few for your glass that might aid in your daydreaming of warm, surf-soaked beaches.

El Dorado 15-Year Old Rum, Guyana

Honestly, a stunning little number that manages to ooze authenticity in its profile, but also with a number of aromas and flavours that evoke a much older rum. Rather spicy with deep molasses notes but also a clean citrus character on the nose, and on the palate, smooth and rich with a peppery finish and mild smokiness. Very, very good neat, but would add excellent depth in a simple cocktail. CSPC 411124 $55-59

Barcelo Imperial Rum Dominican Republic

In several regards, enjoying the Barcelo Imperial Rum is a bit like enjoying a fine, older cognac. A bit fiery on the palate with rich, wood barrel characters supporting a deep and complex spirit that rolls around the tongue. Leather and caramel, with a bare hint of sweeter flavours, this Best in Class at the 2022 Alberta Beverage Awards is a fine addition to your back bar, or a special occasion rum by the fire. CSPC 803037 $45-50

Kōloa White Rum, United States

There have only been a handful of times in my experience, where a white rum – often the least of a rum distillery’s offerings – has been completely stunning. This was one. Kōloa Distillers in Hawai’i is making one of the best white rums I’ve ever come across. Ridiculously smooth, clean, and mellow on the palate and nose with a rather delicate citrus and sweetness on the palate. A clean sipping rum, that would also be perfectly at home replacing vodka in many mixed drinks – it’s that good. CSPC 743401 $53-59

Admiral’s Old J Tiki Fire Spiced Rum Guyana

Coming on hard with a kick to wake you up, the Tiki Fire is all about rich caramel, spice and maybe a little citrus, but on the palate, that 75.5 percent ABV brings in some serious heat, but still allowing juicy limes, and a whole bevy of spices to shine though. Generally, spiced rum is a hard sell around the office, but Tiki Fire is something a little different, and pulls it off with style. CSPC 876098 $44-47

Kōloa Coconut Rum, United States

A small possibility exists that you might have been scared off coconut flavoured rum in the past – by sugary-sweet, cloying examples that often appear on the backbar. But it might be time to rethink this aversion. Bottled at 40 percent ABV, and using infusions made from real coconuts too, it’s pleasingly dry with pure, fresh coconut characters. Perfectly suitable for enjoying neat or in simple cocktails, but will definitely up your umbrella drink game around the tiki bar. CSPC 759992 $53-59

Flor de Caña ECO-15 Rum, Nicaragua

We likely don’t think much about the impact of our spirits, but this rum is carbon neutral, fair trade certified, and distilled with renewable energy too. These are all laudable goals. A crisp, zesty rum with demerara sugar notes and a clean, cereal character on the nose. This really sings on the palate with caramel and spice flavours moving along slowly to a finely robust finish. Very nice neat, but will accentuate a rum cola with style. CSPC 845737 $60-70

Wing commander.

Dale Gienow’s passion is working with animals. With funding from Edmonton Community Foundation and as Director of WILDNorth, Dale is saving animals in distress in and around Edmonton; protecting the living nature that surrounds us.

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