Making the Case

What makes the cut?

By TOM FIRTH

Late last year, I was asked about what sort of wines I like. Seems legit – right? I’ve been asked so many times over so many years that I almost never have a handy answer. There are wines I enjoy for academic purposes like the old wines, the rare wines, and the weirdly awesome wines. But there are also wines that are purely crushable, quaffable, and ready to go which are completely excellent for being accessible.

Here on these pages, not everything makes the grade. These wines are all recommendations, and wines that I feel are representative, well-priced (whether inexpensive or pricey), and yes, wines that are possible to find. Out of the hundreds of bottles I try each and every month, these 13 wines represent a range of prices and regions, but also well-suited for a cold winter’s evening – or when summer’s barbecue days start up again.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Lange Twins 2019 Sand Point Zinfandel California

I love zinfandel with all it’s brambly, wild fruit aromas and flavours, it’s mild blueberry character that tells you it was picked at the right time, and a chewy, definitely-present tannin structure – not to mention a rich, silky mouthfeel. So yeah, I love this zin too! Try matching with hard cheese or cured meats, but this will also go just as well with great pizza. CSPC 862849 $22-24

Castaño 2020 “Ecologico” Organic Monastrell, Yecla, Spain

Over the years watching what was once “fringe” winemaking, like organics becoming mainstream, has been pretty wonderful. These days being organic isn’t enough by itself, the wine still has to be good enough to compete. Here, a crisp and quaffable monastrell shows clean berry style fruits with easy tannins and a lengthy but spicy finish. Very well priced, very well made – and organic wine.

Red Rooster NV Sparkling Rosé Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Made from nearly 100 percent malbec (with a paltry 2 percent pinot noir) this might be the first, northern hemisphere sparkling malbec I’ve tried. And it is good! Very much a rosé with a pinkish, coppery hue, the fruits are all about tart plums and cherry-style fruits, with a crisp, quaffable character – made in the traditional method too. A wine as delicious as it is far off the path, and representing some cool new expressions on the way from Red Rooster. CSPC 833267 $35-38

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. CSPC 814052 $19-21

Quinta do Portal 2019 Reserva Tinto Douro, Portugal

Part of the charm of Portuguese table wines is that they embrace local, indigenous varieties (for the most part) like touriga nacional or touriga franca in the Douro – grapes near perfectly suited to the baking heat and dry conditions of the region. Here, the wine is all about black fruit with firm tannins, great acids, but also a clean, dry herbaceous character and beautiful spice. A great wine for smoked meats, charcuterie, or great cheese. CSPC 867836 $40-44

Sandhill 2021 Sovereign Opal Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A wonderfully unique wine, made from a hybrid grape that is almost completely unheard of, and boasts creamy, tropical and stone fruits, and a friendly and bright acid structure. Off dry to sweet on the palate, in many ways a bit like a mix of gewürztraminer, muscat, and riesling. A rare white that is crowd pleasing and fun to drink too – break out the appies! CSPC 833778 $25-29

Zonte’s Footstep 2018 “Lake Doctor” Shiraz, Langhorne Creek, Australia

Miles away from the overtly jammy or “fruit bomb” shiraz Australia made famous, but in a way still very distinctively Australian with opulent fruit and spice notes, and at the same time a clean and gentle savoury character showing a little cured meats and herb. Completely stunning modern shiraz that checks off all the boxes for gatherings with friends or family. CSPC 727874 $22-25

Castaño 2018 Solanero Vinas Viejas Yecla, Spain

A big, chewy, and most importantly a damn good new red (to us) from Spain. Based around old vine monastrell, with cabernet sauvignon and grenache, also spending 10 months in barrels. This is a complex, layered beast with a deep earthiness, but bursting with red fruits and a slightly resinous herbaceousness. Completely beautiful and perfect for big meats, roasted or grilled. CSPC 175372 $27-30

Lange Twins 2021 Sand Point Rosé California

A simply lovely, fresh example of a sangiovese-based rosé. Coming from a place of restraint with about 12.5 percent alcohol, there is a bare hint of sweet fruits on the summer spectrum with lemons, strawberries, and an overall generous character. A clean, smashable wine that very much overdelivers on price too. A versatile sort of wine that pairs well with light snacks, charcuterie or lighter seafoods. CSPC 783725 $21-23

Chateau de Beaucastel 2019 Châteauneuf du Pape, Rhône, France

A truly remarkable wine – one of the marquee producers, from one of the marquee regions of the wine world. Delightful with slight earthy spice and woodsy/compost characters with a bright, strawberry fruit note that almost dominates. Far too young to really enjoy at the moment – but showing all the promise and potential of a special evening in the future. Wait until at least 2030 to pull the cork if you can. CSPC 820687 $95-110

Taylor Fladgate “The Mallet” Reserve Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal

Tawny ports represent unbelievable value, unrivaled complexity, and for those occasional enthusiasts, last a little longer once opened (maybe a week to three weeks depending). The newest reserve tawny from Taylor Fladgate is packaged in a bottle evoking the “mallet” shape of bottles in the mid 18th century or so. Rich, but not too sweet, with toffee, honey and spice leading the way followed by a clean, figgy finish. CSPC 873889 $54-57

Zonte’s Footstep 2021 “Violet Beauregard” Malbec Langhorne Creek, Australia

Part of a remarkable line up of wines from Zonte’s is this very different, but well worth trying malbec – from Australia! In a much more Argentine style over a French malbec, this entirely captivating bottle speaks from the heart with plump, ripe fruits, a decidedly blueberry (and plum) driven expression, and a drop of bubblegum. Zero oak, but 100 percent a barbecue rock star. CSPC 740201 $22-25

Quinta do Portal 2019 Gran Reserva Tinto, Douro, Portugal

A true grand reserve wine, and one from the Douro region of Northern Portugal, that presents what the region is capable of in its table wines, and still at a very fair price. Centred around tourigas nacional and franca, with tinta roriz (tempranillo), and 14 months in barrel, there is plenty of depth and black fruit expression with some youthful tannins tying it all together. Enjoyable now with a little decanting, or wait about 10 more years to let the real charm shine.

Mission Hill 2019 Oculus, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

In many ways, THIS is the flagship wine of the Okanagan. Certainly, Mission Hill has been at the forefront of the development of the region as a premium one, and Oculus is among their finest offerings. The 2019 is still wisely centred around merlot, with significant cabernet franc presence, cabernet sauvignon for some structure, and a drop of petit verdot. Floral and herbal with beautiful fruits, and excellent - even now, this will improve with time. A hard to find showstopper!