Veggies get Greenlit!

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

Canada’s Food Guide suggests that adults should be eating about eight servings of vegetables a day. That’s a lot to take in, literally and figuratively. And while vegetarian and vegan options are becoming more common in grocery stores and restaurants, sometimes the idea of ‘one more green thing’ makes us revert to our inner five-year-old selves, turn up our noses, and huff a hearty, “No!”

Edmonton’s Happy & Olive mission is simple: to share the things they love to make. “We actively involve our staff when developing dishes and menus,” says Chef Frank Olson. “They are a constant source of new ideas.”

The global experience of the chefs is easy to see with offerings such as Vada Pav Sliders, Montreal Smoked Meat, and Saganaki. For Chef Olson, the Beet Salad does the trick. “It’s a bit of a surprise for people who aren’t that crazy about beets.”

When it comes to preparing vegetable dishes, Chef Olson advises to “keep it simple.” And, he adds, “Seasoning is so important to draw out the flavour.”

One way to try and add more greens to your diet is to not only try different produce, but different methods of preparation, like this recipe for Grilled Edamame in Sichuan Brine. “This is from our Chef Dylan Prins. He’s worked in China and had some great ideas when he came back from Asia.” Be sure to dry the pods after brining – this will make them easier to char.

Grilled Edamame in Sichuan Brine

Serves 3-4

4 tsp (10 g) Sichuan peppercorns

2 pieces liquorice root

4 bay leaves

2 star anise

3 Tbs (10 g) dried Chinese chile

1 cinnamon stick

2 tsp fennel seed

65 g garlic, smashed

1/3 cup (65 g) kosher salt

4 cups (1 L) water

300 g edamame in pods

But there’s a few saving graces when it comes to eating our greens, from letting them take cover in pasta salads, to pulling them front and centre and dressing them with a simple drizzle of lemon and good olive oil. This month we asked four Alberta chefs to give us their gold-star recipes for eating greens, and their responses will have you circling back to the produce section and hitting up farmer’s markets to keep your crisper well-stocked.

1. Boil all the ingredients apart from the edamame together and let sit and steep for a minimum of two hours, then strain.

2. Soak 300 g of unshelled edamame beans overnight in the brine.

3. Grill in a hot cast iron pan or on a BBQ grill until blistered and lightly charred.

4. Sprinkle with Maldon or kosher salt and serve warm.

“My cooking is influenced by a multitude of factors, including cultural heritage, family traditions, and personal experiences,” says chef Heonyoel Jeong of Calgary’s La Brezza Ristorante. “I’m inspired by a deep love for food, and a desire to create memorable dining experiences.”

Among the myriad of traditional Italian dishes, Chef Jeong’s favourite on the menu is the Fettuccine Al Fungi. “It’s our biggest seller in the restaurant,” he explains, “and one that allows me to use my skills and creativity.”

Cooking veggies doesn’t require much beyond a little experimentation, he adds. “Try steaming, roasting, or sautéing with a touch of olive oil and garlic. And add some crunch for texture and brighten with citrus for a burst of freshness.”

His recipe for Orzo Salad is a personal favourite because of its versatility. “It can easily incorporate a variety of seasonal veggies found in Alberta, and you can use any protein you like.” Choose seasonal vegetables, and be sure to cook your orzo al dente so it doesn’t become mushy in the salad.

Orzo Salad with Green Vegetables and Prawns

Serves 4

250 g orzo

200 g asparagus

100 g broccoli

100 g green peas

10 raw prawns

3 Tbs + 1 tsp (50 mL) olive oil

1-2 Tbs parsley

1-2 Tbs chives, chopped

1-2 Tbs green onions, chopped 1 lemon

To taste salt and pepper

1. Prepare an ice bath of iced water in a large container.

2. Follow the instructions on the orzo package and cook in boiling water. Drain and let cool.

3. Cut asparagus and broccoli into 2-3 cm pieces. Cook in boiling water for two minutes and add peas for 30 seconds. Transfer all vegetables to an ice bath.

4. Using the same hot water from the vegetables, add prawns and cook for 3 minutes, then transfer to the ice bath.

5. While all the ingredients are cooling down, make the dressing. In a bowl, add olive oil, chopped parsley, chives, green onions, lemon zest, lemon juice (from the lemon), and salt and pepper, and mix well.

6. In a bowl, put all the ingredients together and mix with dressing.

7. Best plated with salad bowls.

When a chef is excited about their food – and the journey it takes them on – you know you’re in for something special. “Sharing food with good people excites me. Travel, and Edmonton’s multicultural communities, the multitude of ethnic grocery stores/restaurants seeing what we can get here, how it's traditionally used and how I can apply it to the food, inspires me,” explains Chef Shaun Hicks of Edmonton’s Little Wolf.

While many items on the menu change, a few staples stand out. “Hummus and za'atar focaccia is one of my favourites. There's so much to learn about making bread and trying to always make the hummus better - it’s a constant labour of love in such a humble dish.”

For Chef Hicks, the key to any dish is about what he’s saying by creating it in the first place, and vegetables are no different. “I feel like I’m making a statement that’s saying, ‘This vegetable is amazing and beautiful, here it is showcased by ingredients that bring the best out in it.’”

This recipe for Smashed Cucumber

Salad is based off one Chef Hicks used to enjoy at a now-closed Vancouver noodle shop. “It's such a simple dish with easy ratios that can be tweaked easily for anyone’s preference, so take it and run with it and adjust where needed for how you like to eat.”

Little Wolf Smashed Cucumber Salad

Serves 3-4

2-3 long English cucumbers or the equivalent amount of baby cucumbers if you want more crunch, diced into bite sized pieces

1-2 bunches green onions, chopped 1 bunch cilantro, rough chopped

1 Tbs roasted white sesame seeds

1/3 cup (80 mL) Chinese black vinegar

1/3 cup (80 mL) regular soya sauce or gluten free tamari

1-4 Tbs (15-60 mL) Lao Gan Ma Chili Crisp* (depending on how spicy you like your salad)

1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil

Mix everything together and enjoy!

* Lao Gan Ma Chili Crisp is a hot sauce, a combination of crunchy chili flakes, crispy garlic, and savoury spices. It is available in Asian and specialty markets or substitute for another chili crisp available locally.

For Chef Ashish Damale of Calgary’s Namo, years of travel have influenced his style of cooking. “I try to stay true to the original recipes and add my own touch,” he explains.

The menu for Namo boasts this global approach, with dishes ranging from the New Brunswick Lox Benny to the Oaxacan Lamb Torta. For Chef Ashish, Steak and Egg Donburi hits the spot: “It’s just perfect. Rice is always nice.”

When it comes to vegetables, fresh is best. “If you have a green thumb, grow your own,” he advises. For a quick green addition, stir fry fresh spinach with garlic and chili flakes, and finish with honey and black pepper.

Brassica Saag Burrata is a collaboration of cultures and cuisines. “It’s a fusion of my love for Indian food and the love for Italian cheeses and ingredients,” explains Chef Ashish. “Take the time to destem and devein your greens. Speed things up by using a pressure cooker if you prefer, and tear the burrata over the top of the hot saag so it melts evenly.”

Brassica Saag Burrata Spice Mixture

2 Tbs (30 mL) virgin mustard oil (available in most Indian stores)

¼ tsp asafoetida

1 Tbs cumin seeds

1 small red onion, sliced

5 cm ginger, julienned

2 cloves garlic, sliced

4 whole red chilies

2 Tbs chopped cilantro

1 Tbs kassori methi (dried fenugreek)

1. In a small non-stick pan heat the mustard oil till smoky and let cool a bit.

2. Add the asafoetida and cumin seeds and let them crackle.

3. Add in the onions and sauté till golden, then add the ginger, garlic, and chilies and cook for 2 minutes. Add in the fresh cilantro and dried fenugreek.

The Saag

500 g rapini (broccoli rabe)

½ bunch fenugreek leaves

250 g spinach

250 g kale

6 cloves garlic

5 cm ginger

2 green serrano chilis

To taste salt

30 g masa harina (nixtamalized ground corn)

100 g butter or ghee

1 Burrata, around 125 g Garlic naan to accompany (optional)

1. Wash and rinse all greens, prepare the fresh fenugreek and spinach by removing stems, and remove the ribs from the kale.

2. Add fenugreek, kale, and rapini, to a heavy bottom pan with just enough water to fill the pot to 2-3 cm (about 1 cup).

3. Add in the garlic, ginger, and chilis and season to taste. Cook covered till the greens have wilted and soften (about 30 mins).

4. Blanch the spinach separately and shock in ice water to retain its colour.

5. Cool down and puree the cooked mixed greens and spices with the masa harina in a food processor.

6. Puree the spinach separately (we will add this at the very end to make our saag super green).

7. Melt butter in a pan and bring the saag mix to a boil to cook the masa. Add the bright green spinach puree, adjust seasoning, and stir in the spice mixture above.

8. Plate the hot saag in a bowl, and place the torn Burrata right in the centre. Serve with garlic naan if desired.