K-Food

BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

At Calgary’s Korilla Korean BBQ, owner and chef Simon Park lets his past come through in the food he cooks. Born in Korea and raised in California, he eventually traded the bright lights of the Las Vegas strip for the endless skies of the Saskatchewan prairies. “I’ve travelled to many countries to experience different cultures. Those multicultural experiences have had an effect on my food.”

His favourite on Korilla’s menu? Daeji Galbi (galbi marinated pork shoulder):

“In Korea, Daeji Galbi is very popular but each restaurant has a different flavour. It’s a very traditional dish but the galbi marinade is enjoyed worldwide,” he continues. While Korean food looks difficult to many, Chef Simon says the secret is having the right recipe for a marinade or a sauce.

“This is my L.A. Galbi recipe, a very authentic Korean marinade.” He adds that the temperature of the pan is important when cooking, to get the flavour of the finished dish right. “Don’t cook the meat before the pan is ready.”

“Don’t think Korean dishes are complicated. It’s very simple to make a traditional flavour, and I hope readers aren’t afraid of trying this and other Korean recipes.”

L.A. Galbi

Serves 4-6

2 Kg beef short rib, Maui cut

1 cup onion, minced

¼ cup garlic, minced

½ cup ginger, minced

1 cup (240 mL) soy sauce

½ cup (120 mL) cooking sake

½ cup sugar

3 cups (750 mL) 7-Up

2 Tbs (30 mL) sesame oil

Pinch black pepper, course ground

4 bunches green onions, chopped

1. Soak the short ribs in cold water for 15 minutes.

2. Blend together onion, garlic, and ginger.

3. Combine remaining ingredients, apart from meat and green onions, until well mixed to make the marinade.

4. Add green onions.

5. Marinate meat 12 – 48 hours in marinade.

6. Pre-heat grill or pan to 325º F.

7. Remove ribs from marinade and grill or fry the ribs 2 minutes on each side.

Korea’s four distinct seasons are the inspiration behind Chef Hun’s cooking at Edmonton’s SANG. Each season offers different ingredients at their peak, he explains, using them to create dishes that are a blend of traditional Korean flavours with a modern touch. “I also enjoy experimenting with Canadian ingredients and take inspiration from local foods that I experience first-hand.”

Take, for example, Hun’s favourite dish at SANG, Beef Tartare and Gimbap. “The chewy and savoury taste of the beef tartare pairs perfectly with the vegetables in the gimbap, making it a fulfilling and wholesome meal.”

“The essence of Korean cooking lies in its jang (fermented pastes),” he adds. Soy sauce, doenjang, and gochujang are all fermented over long periods of time giving them their rich umami taste. Using these pastes will help cooks recreate the authentic, deep flavours of Korean cuisine. His recipe for Doenjang Chicken Maekjeok (Soybean Marinated Chicken) makes good use of soybean paste, removing unwanted odours and tenderizing the meat.

He adds, “Since barbecuing is popular in Canada, I thought this recipe would allow people to enjoy a familiar barbecue dish with a Korean twist, making Korean cuisine more approachable.”

Doenjang Chicken Maekjeok Gui

Serves 4

4 boneless chicken thighs

2 heads romaine lettuce

100 g baby arugula

¾ cup + 1 Tbs (200 mL) canola oil

Doenjang Marinade:

300 g soybean paste (doenjang)

1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL) white wine

1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL) water

100 g sugar

Sesame Dressing:

5 Tbs (75 mL) soy sauce

1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL) sesame oil

¾ cup + 1 Tbs (200 mL) canola oil

75 g sugar

100 g ground sesame seeds

1. Prepare the boneless chicken thighs by slicing into them with a knife.

2. Combine all the ingredients for the doenjang marinade in a mixing bowl and blend with a hand blender.

3. Place the sliced chicken thighs in the marinade and let them marinate for 24 hours.

4. Combine all the sesame dressing ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth.

5. Grill the marinated chicken thighs over a charcoal grill or in a pan, turning them frequently to prevent burning.

6. Cut the romaine lettuce into bite-sized pieces, wash the arugula, and remove excess water. Toss them in the sesame dressing.

7. Slice the grilled chicken into bite-sized pieces and serve with the salad tossed in sesame dressing.

8. Enjoy the chicken and sesame salad together!

The dishes you’ll find at Calgary’s Tiger K are one part Culinary Creative Director Sharon Choe, and one part Executive Chef Tomo Mitsuno. Blending Choe’s Japanese-Korean heritage and Chef Tomo’s experience, the result is what Choe calls “unique Korean flavours that are exclusive to Calgary, blending elements of both Western and Japanese cuisine.”

Designing a menu around Choe’s favourite dishes means that every dish is her favourite, and you can bet they all start with quality ingredients, something that Choe says is most important. “Use fresh vegetables, good soy sauce, and, if possible, find Korean essentials like gochujang and sesame oil at local Asian markets.” She adds that you can’t rush the process, especially with dishes like bulgogi or soups.

Kimchi is another dish that traditionally relies on time for the fermentation process. Here, Choe shares her recipe for Instant Kimchi. “I picked this dish as the recipe is perfect for beginners who aren’t yet accustomed to the strong, fermented taste of traditional kimchi.” Follow the recipe and use exact portions as listed and avoid adjusting the amount of gochugaru. “If you prefer less spice, try using the less spicy brand for a milder flavour.”

Instant Kimchi

1 Napa cabbage

5 chives

½ onion

200 g gochugaru (Korean chili powder)

1/3 cup + 1 heaped Tbs (100 mL) anchovy fish sauce

2 Tbs (30 mL) salted shrimp sauce

130 g ground garlic

130 g sugar

1. Rinse the Napa cabbage and chop it into easy to bite sized pieces.

2. Chop the chives into 2.5-5 cm sized pieces.

3. Slice the onion thinly.

4. In a large bowl, combine the gochugaru, fish sauce, salted shrimp sauce, ground garlic, and sugar. Mix well to form a thick paste.

5. Using gloves, add the cabbage, chopped chives, and sliced onion to the paste. Mix thoroughly, ensuring each cabbage leaf is well coated with the sauce.

Note: This is a fresh kimchi, ready to eat right away — no fermentation required!

Co-owner of Hanjan Restaurant & Bar in Edmonton, Sam Kyungeun Lee learned a lot about cooking from his business partner and mother, Lisa. “Growing up we didn't have a lot, but my mom is very resourceful and knew how to throw down in the kitchen, so my sisters and I were blessed to always come home to a delicious and comforting meal.”

When it comes to making Korean food, Lee reminds us that our hands are our greatest tools. “Whether you’re mixing banchan, marinating meats or peeling garlic, don’t be afraid to really get in the food with your hands!”

Growing up in Sanbon, Korea, Lee has many memories associated with his mother and food. His recipe for Dotori Mook (Acorn Jelly) reminds him of hiking a mountain with his mother. “During our hike I would gather as many acorns as I could and ask my mom to make me dotori mook. It was and still is one of my favourite dishes.”

Similar to tofu in both texture and versatility, dotori mook is often eaten cold and served with a soy-based dressing. “It’s slightly earthy, but mostly neutral,” explains Lee. “Don’t be afraid if you don’t have all the ingredients for the sauce. Dig into your cabinets and try your own combination. And if it works well, please send me the recipe!”

Dotori Mook - Acorn Jelly

Serves 2-4

100 g acorn flour (you’ll find it in Korean supermarkets and other Asian markets)

4 cups (1 L) water

4 Tbs (60 mL) soy sauce

1 Tbs (15 mL) honey

1 tsp garlic

1 tsp coarse Korean pepper powder

1 tsp (5 mL) sesame oil

½ tsp vinegar

1 tsp chopped green onion Sprinkle sesame seeds

1. Grease a 20 cm square baking pan and set aside.

2. Combine the acorn flour and cold water, and mix well.

3. Transfer the mix with a rubber spatula into a pot, and cook on medium heat, stirring occasionally. As you cook, the mixture will thicken. Keep stirring and cooking even after it thickens until the mixture becomes very thick, with large pieces sticking to your spatula, and it feels too thick to pour (around 8-10 minutes).

4. Move the mixture into a square baking pan and smooth the top out with your spatula. Put parchment paper on top and leave to cool for a few hours to overnight. Do not cool in the fridge as the rapid change in temperature can ruin the texture.

5. Mix remining ingredients together in a bowl to make a sauce. Save some green onion and sesame seeds for garnish.

6. Once the acorn jelly is cooled, take it out of the baking pan and cut into rectangles. Pour sauce on top and garnish with green onion and sesame seeds.