MAKING THE CASE for getting out of a rut

By TOM FIRTH

I’ve been up to my eyeballs in bottles recently. We’ve recently published all the results from our 2024 edition of our Alberta Beverage Awards (check them out online if you didn’t see the magazine on stands), where tasting and tasting and tasting more is the order of the day, and we’ve also seen a number of great wineries putting Calgary (and Edmonton) back on the tour circuit.

So finding great wine hasn’t been too hard, but instead this month, in what is typically our spice or international issue, I wanted to showcase and share some gems. Some from less common countries, a few lesser known grapes, and not to worry, a few bottles that aren’t that hard to find, but are standouts for their value or expressions.

I hope you enjoy these good, interesting wines that are remarkable in some way and a pleasure to drink.

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Les Fleurs du Mal Rosé, Cévennes France

A very light, and very delicate rosé yet deeply perfumed with floral characters and mild herbal notes. Fruits are more akin to strawberry, cranberry and orange, which make for a clean, rather citrusy approach. There is some residual sugar here, so it is off dry, but this is wonderfully refreshing and an easy glass to enjoy – if you close your eyes, you might be fooled that it is still summer! Try matching with lighter, even salty appetizers, or grilled poultry.

CSPC 360073 About $18-20

Weingut Steininger 2022 Grüner Veltliner, Langenlois, Austria

Grüner is so fantastic; one, it just makes excellent wine, two, it’s unique in its expression, and finally, it’s one of the few wines we see here from Austria. The nose here is rife with apples, limestone, white pepper, and lime wedges, and on the palate zesty and dry, very crisp, lean, and mineral driven. Love it!

CSPC 888102 $42-44

Finca Los Primos 2023 Malbec San Rafael, Argentina

A blend of fruit from both San Rafael and Mendoza, but alllll malbec at a heck of a price. Deep, dark plummy fruits with a bit of blueberry jelly and brambly aromas too. In the mouth, full bore tannins with the fruit to back it up and a bit of spice and bitter chocolate at the finish. A solid bottle to keep around for when brisket or large scale grilling is in the cards.

CSPC 632919 $15-17

Possibly my favourite table wine blend is the one we find in the Côtes du Rhone – centred around grenache, syrah, and mourvèdre (sometimes called a GSM) where each grape brings something a little different, but each component can also make stunning wines on their own. Here, loads of spice and tannin, but also exceptionally ripe fruit tones supported by liquorice root, rich earthy tones, and a lovely finish.

CSPC 872789 $33-36

MAN Family Wines 2022 Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch, South Africa

Absolutely chuffed to see “Free-Run Steen” on the back label, “steen” being the South African traditional name for this awesome grape. Made in a slightly more traditional style, this is packed with flavours bringing to mind honey, wool blanket, and zesty lemons too. Completely delicious, and a seriously big wine to enjoy.

CSPC 896469 $24-27

Draaiboek Onskuld 2021 Chardonnay Hemel & Aarde Ridge, South Africa

A standout bottle at a tasting crowded with great bottles, my notes for this wine enthusiastically had stars and underlining throughout. A multilayered, vibrant, and still elegant chardonnay carrying a fair bit of oak and lees, but remarkably, the fruit carries the day with ease. For those that like their chardonnays a little opulent – but wow is this one dignified too.

CSPC 883699 $57-62

Hello Someday 2023 Syrah Rosé Columbia Valley, Washington

We don’t see a lot of rosé here from Columbia Valley, but would definitely love to see more of them. Syrah is put to good use here with a slightly off-dry approach, but abundant cherry fruits and also a touch of orange marmalade on the nose, with just a wee bit of green apple. Nicely balanced on the palate too, it is a pleasure to enjoy on its own but would be a good match for slightly spicy dishes with some protein too.

CSPC 108725 $25-30

Aberdeen Angus the Bull 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, Central Victoria, Australia

A consistent performer at the Alberta Beverage Awards, what the judges love is what I love about it. Bright, classic cabernet expressions with cedar, cherry, and tobacco aromas, and a fairly subtle bell pepper undercurrent. Big, chewy tannins and excellent flavour balance make for a fine glass of wine – with… you guessed it – beef, if you can.

CSPC 713074 $24-26

Lawson’s Dry Hills 2023 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand

Personally, I am enjoying a little bit of a renewed love of sauvignon blanc. Its “excesses” have softened somewhat and more about the grape itself is really shining. Lots of gooseberry and lime on the nose with a generous olive and jalapeño structure show up here along with all those requisite acids. A great glass of wine, pair with zesty, citrusy dishes like seafoods or lighter fare.

CSPC 849590 $21-25

Morgenster 2021 Cabernet Franc Stellenbosch, South Africa

Honestly, a wine so good that once I had tried it, I went out, made some calls, and ordered a case to have around the house for personal enjoyment and sharing with wine savvy friends. A fine blend of traditional approaches to the grape yet with an appreciation of modern tastes and purity of fruit too. Absolutely spectacular with beef, and a solid pairing with pizza, cheese boards, or just on its own. A stunner.

CSPC 817363 $29-34

JoieFarm 2023 Rosé, Okanagan Valley British Columbia

A regular bottle on the circuit of great rosé to enjoy whenever the opportunity is nigh, JoieFarm delivers – year after year. Love this wine. Fairly dark in the glass with intense, brambly fruits, loads of floral tones, and a full flavoured, balance palate. A great summer sipper, but also a cool weather gem that is a fine match with pork, poultry, and charcuterie.

CSPC 731772 $34-38

The Fledge & Co. 2020 Veld Versnit Stellenbosch, South Africa

Another wild blend to get the palate excited. Cinsault with 20 percent cabernet franc and 10 percent alicante bouschet. All coming together in a wine that is slightly smoky and tarry with the blackest of fruits and loamy earth. Multifaceted for sure, with excellent balance of fruit and earth. I’d love to enjoy this with all manner of dishes, but I think a brisket or roast would be the way to go.

CSPC 885202 $35-38

LASVino Albino

A very different approach for pinot noir. Technically a white wine from red grapes, it still could bear the name rosé, but it certainly isn’t a blush, pink, or off-dry bottle. Think of this as a lean, steely, and excellent white wine from pinot noir and you’ll find it’s zesty and tight, with mild orange and strawberry notes, crisp acids, and a beautiful length on the palate. Entirely delicious! Versatile at the table, I’d give the nod to a pairing with seafood, or something with a creamy sauce.

CSPC 883253 $53-55