Chefs’ tips and tricks

Modern to traditional, Greece has it all!

BY TOM FIRTH | PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

Greece is a nation positively brimming with a deep history and a strong cultural identity. It also has a firm grip on the imagination of travelers with iconic scenery and cuisine to die for.

While plenty of variation exists in its regional dishes—whether an island visit or touring the northern stretches, Greek cuisine also transcends the seasons, making for good, wholesome, flavourful food, as well suited to a cold spring day as it is to a baking hot summer afternoon. A counterpoint to island-hopping cuisine, Yiannis in Edmonton focuses more on the mainland of Greece with more meat than seafood, and everything

is made in-house (except for their pita bread which has been made by the same Lebanese family at Mediterranean Pita Bakery since day one).

According to Sous Chef Elina Komusidi, it’s the simple character of Greek food that is so appealing, being: “spicy without heat, immensely satisfying without being (too) rich.” At Yiannis, the focus is on fresh ingredients with plenty of vegetables, citrus, zesty herbs, garlic, and tangy cheese.

Aside from a tip to buy the best feta cheese you can afford, Chef Komusidi points out, “There are many wonderful ingredients available locally. Alberta produces some of the best honey, lamb, beef, and wheat in the world! After that we have the Italian Centre Shop and Omonia Foods to supply us with the ubiquitous olives, cheeses etc. that are unique to Greece.”

A staple of Greek cuisine, try chef ’s recipe for Grilled Lamb Chops and Lemon Potatoes!

Patates Lemoni Serves 4

1–1.5 kg russet potatoes Olive oil To taste sea salt and freshly ground pepper 2 pinches oregano 1 lemon Parsley, optional for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 400˚ F. 2. Peel the potatoes and cut into quarters lengthways. Place them in a roasting pan, and drizzle with oil, seasoning with salt and pepper and add oregano. Squeeze lemon over and add small amount of water to bottom of pan. 3. Roast until golden brown and soft in the centre, 30–40 minutes. Garnish with parsley and squeeze more lemon to serve.

Grilled Lamb Chops —Paidakia Arnisia

10 Culinaire | April 2020 Olive oil 1 large lemon, juiced Oregano 1 kg lamb chops, around 4 To taste sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Mix the oil with the lemon juice and oregano. Pour over the lamb and make sure it coats them well. Let them stand for a few minutes or refrigerate for up to two hours. Grill on charcoal or gas turning frequently until desired doneness.

Located in Calgary’s Willow Park Village, Broken Plate was originally opened by a Greek family using old, family-style recipes while grandma cooked in the back. These days, under chef and owner Ervin Bushi, Broken Plate is very much a modern expression of Greek dining, plus, after a recent redesign, this light and airy location is closer to the Grecian seaside than a traditional taverna.

Bushi is a big believer that our memories, taste, and sense of smell go hand in hand. “When I eat a delicious octopus dish—my current favourite—I always feel the seaside close by me.” When asked what he loves about Greek food, he adds, “It’s the flavour and versatility. You will never eat bland Greek food. In terms of versatility, you will never run out of ideas as a Greek chef.”

For the home chef, says Bushi, “There are absolutely some traditional classic ingredients such as oregano and lemon. For me personally, the best Greek ingredient is fresh lemon because it can transform a dish, (but) simple and fresh ingredients are key. The magic is in the simplicity of a good product. A great cut of meat, fresh, plump tomatoes, a juicy lemon, a mix of aromatic spices. It is not as complicated as people believe.”

For a mouthwatering Greek casserole, try Chef Bushi’s Giouvetsi with Lamb Shank and Kritharaki (orzo pasta).

Lamb Shank Giouvetsi with Kritharaki Bake Serves 4

½ cup (120 mL) olive oil 4 lamb shanks To taste salt and pepper 4 celery sticks, diced 1½ cups carrots, diced 1 clove garlic, chopped 2/3 cup (160 mL) tomato puree ¾ cup + 3 Tbs (225 mL) red wine 4 bay leaves 15 black peppercorns 1 cinnamon stick 1 sprig fresh rosemary 440 mL can tomatoes, diced 300 g orzo pasta 2 lemons 28 g fresh mint, chopped 28 g fresh parsley, chopped 150 g shredded kefalotyri cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 400˚ F. In a Dutch oven or a heavy bottomed pan, add ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil on medium heat. 2. Season the lamb shanks well with salt and pepper. Starting with the side where the meat is cut first, sear the meat on all sides until golden brown. Place in a 10 cm deep oven-safe dish.

3. In the same pot where you seared the shanks, add the diced celery, diced carrots, and the chopped garlic. Sauté for around 5 minutes. When the vegetables are starting to brown, add the tomato puree. Sauté for 2 more minutes and deglaze with the red wine. Cook until ⅔ of the wine has evaporated. 4. Add to the shanks wih the bay leaves, peppercorns, cinnamon stick and the rosemary. Add the diced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. 5. Add hot water to cover the shanks with 2 cms water above the shanks. Cover with the lid or foil. Braise in the oven for 2 hours. 6. When the shanks have been braising for 1 hour and 50 minutes, take another saucepan, add ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil and sauté the orzo pasta until golden brown. 7. Remove dish from oven. Add orzo pasta and mix. Remove the cinnamon stick. 8. At this point, the dish needs 2 cm of liquid above the pasta. If the liquid level of the dish is low, add boiling water. Check seasoning. Cover, and continue braising further for 30 minutes. 9. To serve, finely grate the zest of two lemons, and mix with the chopped mint and parsley. Sprinkle the dish with the lemon herb mix and kefalotyri cheese.

In Edmonton’s south is another notable Greek restaurant—Koutouki South, bringing authentically styled dishes, but also the atmosphere many still associate with traditional restaurants: belly dancing, plate smashing, and classically Greek music can all be found some evenings here.

Chef Collin Macleod again focuses on selection and quality ingredients telling us, “we use nothing but the freshest ingredients for our dishes, that are homemade daily.” For his favourite dishes at Koutouki, he’s quick to recommend the Koutouki Meze, which is a bit like a small plate, family-style feast meant to be shared and explored among friends or family—or the Arni Kleftico which is a slow roasted lamb shoulder.

For a tip, chef Macleod has a very easy suggestion: “follow your heart, and your stomach!” so taste, taste, taste!

Chef Macleod’s Moussaka is a casserole of eggplant, beef, zucchini, and potatoes in a rich béchamel sauce.

Koutouki South Moussaka Serves 4–6

3 eggplants, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 cm slices 3 zucchini, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 cm slices 3 potatoes, peeled and cut lengthwise into 1 cm slices To taste salt and pepper ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil 1 Tbs butter 450 g lean ground beef 2 onions, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp nutmeg ½ tsp finely chopped herbs 2 Tbs dried parsley 1 egg, beaten 4 cups (1 L) milk ½ cup butter 6 Tbs all-purpose flour 1½ cups parmesan cheese, freshly grated ¼ Tbs ground nutmeg

1. Place eggplant, zucchini, and potatoes on paper towel and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Let sit 30 minutes. In a pan over high heat, heat the olive oil. Fry vegetables until browned. Put on paper towels. 2. In a pan over medium heat, melt 1 Tbs butter and add the ground beef, salt and pepper to taste, onions, and garlic. When beef is browned, sprinkle with cinnamon, nutmeg, herbs and parsley. Simmer for 20 minutes. 3. For béchamel sauce, scald the milk in a medium saucepan. Melt ½ cup butter in a pan over medium heat. Whisk in flour until smooth. Lower heat; gradually pour in the hot milk, continue whisking. Add egg and continue whisking until the sauce thickens, season with salt and white pepper. 4. Add a layer of eggplant and zucchini, and all the potatoes in a deep baking dish. Add all the meat mixture, and then sprinkle ½ cup of parmesan overtop. Cover with remaining eggplant and zucchini, and sprinkle another ½ cup of cheese on top. Pour the béchamel sauce over the top, Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake for 1 hour at 350˚ F.

In Calgary’s northwest, one can find family owned and operated, Calypso’s Greek Taverna, and most likely Peter Kaitsas, chef and owner. It’s hard to talk about Greek cuisine without talking about lamb, and Kaitsas is justifiably proud of their lamb dishes like their padaikia, the kleftiko, and of course lamb souvlaki. But as chef laughingly shares when asked what he likes about Greek cuisine, “Everything! The blending of flavours and the satisfaction after eating an authentic Greek dish are what we think draws many to it.”

Kaitsas points out traditional ingredients that are a must-have, “good Greek olive oil, garlic, lemon, and oregano are absolute necessities.” But he’s also well aware of local food, and tries to support local producers and ingredients – the fresher the better of course. As for any additional tips, chef makes a good point, “Have fun with it! If something goes wrong, just yell “Opa!” and keep going!”

The restaurant offers wild Pacific salmon as a special, but has shared a dish they make at home for family, a Solomos Plaki. Calypso’s Solomos Plaki (Mediterranean-style Salmon) Serves 4–6

6 salmon fillets, skin removed 2 heads of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 3 large onions, thinly sliced 2 cans diced tomatoes, 440 mL ½ bunch of fresh parsley, chopped 1 Tbs (15 mL) tomato paste 2 Tbs fresh dill, minced 1 Tsp chopped fresh mint 1 cup (240 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 large potatoes, cut in half and thinly sliced 3 cups (720 mL) water To taste salt and pepper

1. In a large pan mix all ingredients together except water and salmon. Pour water over mixture, stir well. Bake at 450˚F for 30–40 minutes until potatoes are cooked and mixture is simmering. 2. Remove from oven and place salmon fillets across the top of the mixtures. Once placed, spoon mixture over the fillets so they are generously covered. Shake pan to resettle the mixture base to level. Place in oven and bake until salmon fillets are cooked and flaky. Approximately 40–50 minutes. Serve with crusty bread and salad of your choice, we suggest Greek!

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