Making the case

Making the case for Italian wine By TOM FIRTH

i don’t know of any serious wine enthusiast who doesn’t like Italian wine. Granted, painting one of the largest wine countries with such a broad yes/no brush is a bit of a fallacy, but what is undeniable is the range of quality wine regions in Italy, but also such a swath of wines that go so well with food.

Coupled with the stereotypical images we have of checkered tablecloths, straw-covered fiasco bottles of chianti (thanks Lady and the Tramp!) we almost equate Italy with fine

dining, good wine, and special occasions. This month, in only 13 bottles, I tried to showcase a range of Italian wines

from different regions, but also not just talking about sangiovese or Tuscany. I hope you enjoy them!

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate. Planeta 2019 Rosé, Sicily, Italy Simply stunning and wonderfully fresh— perfect for enjoying at the tail end of yet another winter in Alberta. Made from syrah with nero d’Avola and full of ripe strawberry fruits with a zesty, lime citrus flavour and subtle mineral characters. No food required. CSPC +756117 About $20–22

Planeta 2018 Alastro, Sicily, Italy Another delicious and unique wine recently tasted. Made from grecanico with 15 percent each of grillo and sauvignon blanc with about 6 months of lees contact. Aromatic and expressive with red apples, tropical fruit tones and bread crust on the nose. Silky smooth on the palate and expertly balanced, try with robust seafood dishes or veggies. CSPC +756115 About $26–29

Cantina Zaccagnini 2014 Tralcetto Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a wonderful grape that is sorely overlooked by many wine drinkers looking for a casual and versatile glass of wine. Deep and plush, with easy, agreeable tannins and a slightly tart/ sour fruit tone to the flavours. Remarkably versatile at the table, try pairing with meaty tomato sauces or grilled meats. CSPC +862003 About $18–21

38 Culinaire | March 2020 Le Ragose 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, Veneto, Italy There are two basic camps emerging in Valpolicella: the plush, near-fruit bombs made popular in North America, and those that lean towards an earthy, more traditional style of winemaking. Le Ragose is in this second camp with black berries and sour cherry fruit, dried herbs, and hints of liquorice and cedar. Bloody delicious, and best paired with roasted meats or game. CSPC +821971 About $30–33

Sella & Mosca La Cala 2018 Vermentino di Sardegna, Sardinia, Italy Honestly, we should all drink a little more vermentino, it’s light and fresh and pairs perfectly well with all manner of salt water seafood. Rife with green apple fruits, mild spiciness, and mineral salinity, it evokes warmer days on a patio and long evenings. A well-priced treat. CSPC +804133 $23–26

Viberti NV Moscato d’Asti, Piedmont Italy A favourite of many who love wine but might have a sweet tooth, Moscato d’Asti is typically lower in alcohol (about 5 percent) and much sweeter than most effervescent wines. Clean and tropical with nectarines, mandarin orange, and pear characters. Summer in a glass—truly. CSPC +802398 About $20–22

Fontodi 2018 Meriggio, Tuscany, Italy We don’t see many Italian sauvignon blancs here (this one with a touch of trebbiano), but this is worth looking out for. Lightly grassy in style with lime and gooseberry supporting, the palate is quite restrained showcasing delicate fruits and a decidedly peppery spice. Try matching with freshwater fish or roasted poultry. CSPC +702858 About $36–39

Santa Margherita Brut Rosé Veneto, Italy A bit unusual for Italian sparkling wine, this is a blend of chardonnay, glera, and… malbec. Malbec? Yessir, clean and fresh with tight, tropical fruits and a mild pink colour—and even milder red berry fruit on the palate. Quite tasty, and very smashable, this will go over very well on a hot summery day. Keep this one in mind. CSPC +817747 $22–$24

Sella & Mosca 2016 Cannonau di Sardegna, Sardinia, Italy Before you rush to your wine books, Cannonau di Sardigna goes by other names which might be more familiar to wine enthusiasts. Grenache in France and alicante in Spain. A little smokey and a little salty on the nose, with black currants and charred earth aromas. On the palate, it’s full of chewy tannins, big black fruits, and a cedar finish. Match with grilled red meats if possible. CSPC +756158 $23–25 Giusti 2018 Longheri Pinot Grigio Veneto, Italy Crisp and beautiful on the nose and palate. Certainly not the most inexpensive pinot grigio out there, but it’s hard to get the depth and style found here for less. Generous fruits with bright, tropical floral characters; a palate that speaks of peaches and nectarines; and a crisp, apple finish. Try matching with creamy sauces or simple seafood dishes. CSPC +776331 $20–22

Cecchi “La Morra” 2016 Morellino di Scansano Hailing from a 120 hectare estate and made from 100 percent sangiovese (morellino being the regional name for sangiovese near the village of Scansano), this is floral, yet earthy too with deep, cherry-like fruits in a not-quite juicy expression. Quaffable for sure, and would go well with smokier Bolognese type sauces. CSPC +782914 around $14–16

Borgogno “No Name” 2015 Nebbiolo Piedmont, Italy A bit of a “protest” wine, the “No Name” nebbiolo—from a highly reputable producer—didn’t quite meet all the criteria for its higher classification from the consorzio (primarily on colour), so it was bottled outside of the classification. Smoky cherries and spice on the nose move into an earthy and tannic palate, well balanced for those Bolognese-style sauces. Quite versatile and drinks very well now. CSPC +804182 $44–47

Fontanafredda 2014 Serralunga d’Alba Barolo, Piedmont, Italy One of the great communes of Barolo, Serralunga d’Alba is typically thought of as producing a little more of a rustic expression of Barolo, but I dislike that heuristic, I love these wines which drink very well at all ages. Fontanafredda’s is laden with black fruit, earthy characters and plenty of tannins. Drinking very well now or over the next 5+ years. Try pairing with excellent beef or cheesy snacks (seriously). CSPC +768849 About $44–48