Culinaire #8.9 (March 2020)

Page 38

Making the case for Italian wine

By TOM FIRTH

i don’t know of any serious wine enthusiast who doesn’t like Italian wine. Granted, painting one of the largest wine countries with such a broad yes/no brush is a bit of a fallacy, but what is undeniable is the range of quality wine regions in Italy, but also such a swath of wines that go so well with food. Coupled with the stereotypical images we have of checkered tablecloths, straw-covered fiasco bottles of chianti (thanks Lady and the Tramp!) we almost equate Italy with fine dining, good wine, and special occasions. This month, in only 13 bottles, I tried to showcase a range of Italian wines from different regions, but also not just talking about sangiovese or Tuscany. I hope you enjoy them!

Planeta 2019 Rosé, Sicily, Italy

Simply stunning and wonderfully fresh— perfect for enjoying at the tail end of yet another winter in Alberta. Made from syrah with nero d’Avola and full of ripe strawberry fruits with a zesty, lime citrus flavour and subtle mineral characters. No food required. CSPC +756117 About $20–22

Planeta 2018 Alastro, Sicily, Italy

Another delicious and unique wine recently tasted. Made from grecanico with 15 percent each of grillo and sauvignon blanc with about 6 months of lees contact. Aromatic and expressive with red apples, tropical fruit tones and bread crust on the nose. Silky smooth on the palate and expertly balanced, try with robust seafood dishes or veggies. CSPC +756115 About $26–29

Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate. Cantina Zaccagnini 2014 Tralcetto Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Italy

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is a wonderful grape that is sorely overlooked by many wine drinkers looking for a casual and versatile glass of wine. Deep and plush, with easy, agreeable tannins and a slightly tart/ sour fruit tone to the flavours. Remarkably versatile at the table, try pairing with meaty tomato sauces or grilled meats. CSPC +862003 About $18–21

Tom is a freelance wine writer, wine consultant, and wine judge. He is the contributing Drinks Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and is the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards. Follow him on twitter @cowtownwine.

38 Culinaire | March 2020

Le Ragose 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso, Veneto, Italy

There are two basic camps emerging in Valpolicella: the plush, near-fruit bombs made popular in North America, and those that lean towards an earthy, more traditional style of winemaking. Le Ragose is in this second camp with black berries and sour cherry fruit, dried herbs, and hints of liquorice and cedar. Bloody delicious, and best paired with roasted meats or game. CSPC +821971 About $30–33


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