COLLiDE's Travel With Purpose Volume 3 by Collide

ANIMAL COLLECTIVE

Miike Snow Stockholm / HINDS Madrid / Nova Heart Beijing Andrew W.K. & Lil BUB The Universe / YACHT Los Angeles Poliรงa Minneapolis / Belle & Sebastian Glasgow / Mร Copenhagen + Santigold, CHVRCHES, Dan Deacon, and more

44 . COLLIDE

Get out of town. (No, really...)

Where do travel and music meet? During late nights on tour buses driving across state borders, in coffee shops where early stages of songs are penned, in rhythms influenced by a band’s home country. In these pages we explore the intersection of music and travel, either by following Miike Snow and Santigold around the world, traveling through space with Lil BUB, or visiting Eleanor Friedberger at her barn studio in upstate New York. Inside you’ll find comprehensive guides to some of the world’s greatest and most culturally vibrant cities from today’s influential artists, who are both the knowledgeable locals and the thrill-seekers we aspire to be. Leave no stone unturned as you explore the post-medieval streets of Glasgow, bike across the canals of Copenhagen, or try some Jianbing, Beijing’s popular breakfast street food. We’ve also included travel tips from our staff; from Colorado, to Istanbul, to Croatia, our work and passion for exploration led us across the globe this year. As a boutique culture agency, here at COLLiDE, our goal is to inspire. We are incredibly grateful and humbled by the amazing brands that trust us to build meaningful marketing strategies in partnership with them. Throughout the last year our agency has had the distinct honor of working with Converse, DirecTV, Silvercar, StubHub, Shellback Rum, E&J Brandy, Lagunitas, Landmark Theatres, Hangar 1, PlayStation, JanSport, Hard Rock Hotels, Showtime, Lyft, Dr. Martens, Tillys, Slacker Radio, and more.

GIGIE HALL

We dedicate this issue to the artists who continuously inspire us to live outside our comfort zones, and to travel with purpose.

TRANSITIONAL JACKETS AVA I L A B L E AT B U R TO N. C O M

Technical jackets for when both you and the elements are all over the place.

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SHAPE YOUR SOUND

Bose® F1 Model 812 Flexible Array Loudspeaker

1 speaker. 4 coverage patterns.

STRAIGHT

REVERSE J

Introducing the first portable loudspeaker that lets you easily control the vertical coverage – so wherever you play, more music reaches more people directly. The Bose F1 Model 812 Flexible Array Loudspeaker’s revolutionary flexible array lets you manually select from four coverage patterns, allowing you to adapt your PA to the room. Plus, the loudspeaker and subwoofer provide a combined 2,000 watts of power, giving you the output and impact for almost any application. Your audience won’t believe their ears.

Publisher Alan Miller

Editor-in-Chief Rachael Roth

Senior Editor Gigie Hall

Art & Design

Sirius Being Creative Contributing Writers

Lauren Holloway, Si Hawkins, Sabine Brice, Eli McAdams, Tamara Shevlin Contributing Artists & Photographers

Kelly Balch, Emily Goldfarb, Tamara Shevlin, Wes Martin, Si Hawkins, Alex Hornbeck, Adam Leader-Smith, Polo Camargo, Duncan Harvey, Stephen Edwards, Notes from Vivace Interns

Cristina Pimental, Atiera Jones, Amy Lee, Emily Nimptsch, Eda Yu, Laura Tobey MARKETING

Monique Gilbert, Jeff Wolfe, Wes Martin, Tristen Gacoscos, Molly Kodros, Todd Apmann, Ashley Aguirre ADVERTISING Jeff Wolfe

Wolfe@WeAreCOLLiDE.com 707.486.3644

COLLiDE LOS ANGELES OFFICE: 323.592.3615 COLLiDE san francisco office: 707.486.3644 COLLiDE NEW YORK OFFICE: 646.202.6183 COLLiDE CHICAGO OFFICE: 773.294.0052

Special Thanks

Rachel Weissman, Asher Miller, Autumn Miller, Kuka Keka, Susana Loy, Kuma Chang, J.M & Nickey Gilbert, Cover Illustration by Alexander Wells / Folio

TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE is published by Collide Acency LLC, 5514 Wilshire Blvd, 9th Floor, Los Angeles, CA. Vol. 1, No. 3, 2016. TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE is not responsible for anything, including the return or loss of submissions, or for any damage or other injury to unsolicited manuscripts or artwork. Any submission of a manuscript or artwork should include a self-addressed envelope or package of appropriate size, bearing adequate return postage.

KELLY BALCH

Ruben Pardo, Cally Hardy, The Hall Family, The Campos Family, The Shevlin Family, The Roth Family, Noel Madrid, Connie Tsang

BALI . BILOXI . CANCUN . CHICAGO . HOLLYWOOD, FL . IBIZA . LAS VEGAS . MACAU . NORTHFIELD PARK . ORLANDO . PALM SPRINGS . PANAMA MEGAPOLIS PATTAYA . PENANG . PUNTA CANA . RIVIERA MAYA . SAN DIEGO . SINGAPORE . TAMPA . VALLARTA . COMING SOON: DUBAI MARINA . GOA . SHENZHEN

Real music. Authentic experiences. Created here. sessions by: tennis at hard rock hotel

TABLE OF CONTENTS

On the Cover 62. Animal Collective comes together to rip things apart

14. COLLiDE Travels with Purpose: Travel tips from our staff

TOUR DIARY

48. SWIMM captures their North American travels on camera

FEATURES

54. YACHT uncovers LA’s forgotten spaces

36.

CITY GUIDES Comprehensive guides to five of the world’s most vibrant cities, as told

74. Carry On: How HINDS survives tour life

by local artists.

90. Santigold shares items found around the world for under a dollar

Admiral Fallow

80. Andrew W.K. + Lil BUB on earthly and intergalactic travel

86. Minneapolis Rising: Channy Leaneagh's love for the city that built Poliça 98. Global Finds by Miike Snow

100. Goodbye to All That: Eleanor Friedberger leaves the city to gain a New View

FESTIVAL PICKS

106. Positivus: Salacgriva, Latvia 116. Tallinn Music Week: Tallinn, Estonia

18. Glasgow, Scotland Belle & Sebastian CHVRCHES

Franz Ferdinand

Pinact

Trembling Bells

24. Copenhagen, Denmark

FOOD & DRINK 124. Spring Beer Picks 126. Taco Bingo: How many of the nation’s best tacos have you tried?

Choir of Young Believers Fallulah

Kasper Bjørke MØ

My bubba Oh Land

Rasmus Stolberg

30. Beijing, China Carsick Cars Chui Wan

Birdstriking Howie Lee

Nova Heart 90.

SHAO

The Eat

36. Mexico City, Mexico Apolo

Caloncho

I Can Chase Dragons! Kill Aniston Little Jesus

Los Blenders Rey Pila

Verano Peligroso

42. Baltimore, Maryland Dan Deacon

Dave Heumann Ed Schrader

Expert Alterations 86.

Horse Lords

PulseWidthMod Wume

For more information, please contact us at: hotelvanzandt.com | 512.960.8730 | events@hotelvanzandt.com

THE JUAN MACLEAN

12 . collIDE

CULTURECOLLIDE.COM

Photo: NOTES FROM VIVACE

culture collide 2015 festival los angeles/SAN FRANCISCO/NEW YORK

Filled with a sense of wanderlust, our staff traveled the world this year, from the California valleys to the far regions of Eastern Europe. Here’s what we learned:

Nusa Lembongan, Bali Hydrate with plenty of Bintang.

—Jeff Wolfe

Istanbul, Turkey The old city is a truly magical place. The blue mosque and Hagia Sophia provide absolute exhilaration. Visit during winter when crowds are small and there is a chill in the air.

—Alan Miller

14 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Mono Hot Springs, California Somewhere in the central Sierra Nevada lies this truly wondrous camping spot. But you need a car with some clearance since it takes a pretty rough dirt road to get there. While it may deter some, just take it slow. The campsite is right on the San Joaquin river, with easy access to the various hot springs, lakes, and majestic Ansel Adams and John Muir Wilderness that surrounds.

—Gigie Hall

Mount Beacon, New York

The hike is two miles round trip to the ruins of the casino and spa. If you want to go further, you can go to the fire tower, which has even

more amazing views and is only another 1.5 miles away. Additionally,

you can connect to trails to the Beacon Reservoir, the Fishkill Ridge, as well as go all the way to the neighboring town of Cold Spring.

—Todd Apmann

San Isabel National Forest, Colorado For a hearty meal to prepare for a hike-filled day, go to the Roosters Crow Cafe in Buena Vista, CO.

—Laura Tobey

Big Sur, California Pro-tip: pack a meal, pull over anywhere on Highway 1 and watch the sunset from the hood of your car.

San Sebastián, Spain

— Tristen Gacoscos

San Sebastián is known

as the Basque Country’s culinary

capital

and

rightfully so. Take friends on a bar crawl in search of the city’s best pintxo, Northern Spain’s take on the traditional Spanish tapa.

The

variety

London, UK

flavors and ingredients is mouth watering, it will be a tough challenge.

— Molly Kodros

You must call ahead and make a reservation to have tea at Sketch. The

bathroom is a destination in and of itself. You’ll know what I mean when you go. David Shrigley illustrations cover the walls. The most delicious treats. Pink booths. Pink champagne. You’ll swear you fell into the rabbit hole with Alice.

— Monique Gilbert

Barranco in Lima has the best street art. You can order

a Pisco Sour — a cocktail made with egg whites, lime

or lemon, and Angostura bitters (it’s a lot better than it sounds) at any bar. Go to Peru; never leave.

— Rachael Roth

Lima, Peru

Opatija, Croatia Listen to the locals. Eat the fish.

— Eda Yu COLLIDE . 17

Duncan Harvey

city guide

glasgow scotland

As Told by:

Admiral Fallow Belle & Sebastian CHVRCHES Franz Ferdinand Pinact Trembling Bells COLLIDE . 19

CITY guide

Glasgow

The largest city in Scotland, Glasgow embraces a romantic cityscape comprised of Victorian architecture. This once-medieval (and as noted by some, haunted) metropolis counts rivers, cathedrals and sprawling flora among its defining features. These trademarks, plus the scents and sounds of the city have inspired its many musical constituents. “When I catch the malty, hoppy smell drifting across town from the brewery, I am transported back to the first days of living here,” says Sarah Martin of Belle & Sebastian. The Glaswegian accent may be hard to understand if you’re unfamiliar, but as Pinact will tell you, “there is beauty in how it mangles the English language.” ARTS and ENTERTAINMENT Music Home to influential musicians like Paul Buchanan, and with some of the best indie

artists hailing from the city, it’s no wonder this place fosters creativity. “It inspires

confidence and dedication,” says Iain Cook of CHVRCHES. But the success rate of its artists happens almost in spite of itself; a fine line exists between the city’s party culture and the plethora of music venues and chances to perform. “When we

first got the band together we were going to a lot of clubs and parties. At the time, Optimo [a famous event hosted by JD Twitch and JG Wilkes from 1997 to 2010] was every Sunday night at the Sub Club, and everybody went. There’d always be great

house parties afterwards, and folk deciding to quit their jobs because it was 9 a.m. on a Monday morning and they hadn’t been to bed, and anyway there were pubs that opened at 8 a.m. where they could go instead, and the shop that sold poppers

opened at 10 a.m., so there wasn’t long to wait for that either,” says Bob Hardy of Franz Ferdinand. Louis Abbott of Admiral Fallow adds that the city has a pervasive drinking culture, naming alcoholism both the best and the worst part of Glasgow.

For music venues, Pinact recommends The Barrowland Ballroom in the city’s

East End. “This venue has a special aura about it that is incomparable to any other venue I’ve ever been in. It’s grubby and run-down but every time I walk up

the stairs and into the main hall I feel like I’m 13 again and about to see my first show. The building oozes history and your favorite band has most likely played one of their favorite shows there,” they tell us.

Looking for a more unconventional venue? “Another favourite and less trodden

venue is Govan Old Parish Church. I organized a gig there around Christmas

2013 which was pretty special. I have lived in Govan for over a decade and it’s a pretty inhospitable place, on the surface. But it has a very rich history

and this venue is a high example of that. It doesn’t look too prepossessing from the outside but it has spectacular stained glass windows and is very

grandiose once you step inside. It also houses a fantastic collection of Viking burial mounds and Celtic crosses. It’s a real undiscovered jewel in Glasgow’s cultural landscape,” says Trembling Bells drummer Alex Neilson.

The Burrell Collection in Pollok Park is beautiful. It’s a bit out of the way from the usual tourist attractions, but well worth a trip. — Iain Cook, CHVRCHES City Soundtrack CHVRCHES: “Walk Across the Rooftops” by The Blue Nile

Franz Ferdinand: “The First Big Weekend” by Arab Strap Belle & Sebastian: “The Song of The Clyde” by R.Y. Bell and Ian Gourley

20 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Glasgow University: Stephen Edwards

Belle & Sebastian: Søren Solkær; CHVRCHES: danny Clinch; Franz Ferdinand: andy knowles; Pinact: dan Sim; admiral Fallow: Euan Robertson

kelvingrove Park: Stephen Edwards

bEllE & sEbAsTIAn Belle & sebastian formed in glasgow in 1996, and soundtracked our early to mid 2000s with their teenagefantasy-infused tracks that were both cinematic and subtle. The glaswegian indie supergroup has almost as many band members as they do songs. okay, that’s an exaggeration, but if you’re ever lucky enough to see them live, you’ll witness a spectacular dance party featuring more people onstage than in the audience (another exaggeration). They played 2015’s fyf fest in los angeles, and released their eighth studio album Girls in Peacetime Want to dance, in january 2015. CHVRCHEs Trio ChvrChes is iain Cook, martin doherty, and lauren mayberry. in 2015 they blurred the lines between pop and alternative with their acclaimed album Every open Eye which cemented their spot in the contemporary indie landscape as much as it introduced experimental synth to the mainstream. Both Every open Eye and their breakthrough debut, The Bones of What you Believe, were created within their own alucard studios in southern glasgow. FRAnZ FERdInAnd The scottish, early aughts rock foursome recently fused with sparks (a veteran los angeles-based duo that’s been making music since the late ‘60s), to create the dance rock supergroup, franz ferdinand + sparks, or ffs. Their collaborative, self-titled ﬁrst album was released via domino records in june of 2015.

PInACT Corrie gillies (guitar/vocals), lewis reynolds (drums) and jon arbuthnott (bass) make up Pinact, modern incarnates of ‘80s and ‘90s grunge. The trio, signed to new york-based label kanine Records, is known for their chaotic and fuzzy, amplified sound and their diy-style — putting on their own shows, playing at houses and basements, etc. Pinact’s debut album Stand Still and Rot was produced by mj of hookworms, and released in the spring of 2015. AdMIRAl FAlloW Tender, melodic, and ultimately hopeful, admiral fallow’s orchestral, indie pop has earned them spots on the bills for various big-name festivals over the years, including great escape, glastonbury, and sxsw. formed in 2007 by frontman Louis Abbott, the Scottish five-piece released their third album Tiny Rewards in may 2015, plus a special, limited-edition double vinyl in september of 2015. abbott can be spotted on sundays at Bloc+ in glasgow, where he holds a weekly open mic. TREMblInG bElls Forming in Glasgow in 2008, five-piece Trembling Bells say they share several personality traits: “we’re all obsessive, pedantic, maladjusted, unemployable nerds.” in 2012 they collaborated with will oldham on their album The Marble downs. Three years later, in june of 2015, they released a follow-up, The Sovereign Self, which gets its name from a line by the late Tv screenwriter and dramatist dennis Potter, and counts sophocles, el greco, and break-ups among its influences.

COLLIDE . 21

CITY guide Glasgow

Top Choice: Nice N Sleazy is a clear favorite among locals. An institution that opened in the

1990s, Sleazy’s is an oft-referenced and incomparable drinking den/music venue/ burger joint. “Legends have been born in this venue and I see no end to it as long

as bands keep making great music and wish to play in the best underground venue

in the city,” says in-house promoter James T McKay. “Everyone tells me the venue is haunted. Glasgow is an old city and every building of a certain age plays host to the echoes of some distant memory that reveals itself to the chosen few when they will

it.” McKay’s must-try food and drink at the venue? “The burgers are insanity. The White Russians are the stuff of folklore.”

Ben A’an in the Trossachs is worth a climb. It’s a relatively small hill but the views over Loch Katrine and Loch Achray are spectacular and make you feel like you’ve accomplished something. — Bob Hardy, Franz Ferdinand Visual Art

FOOD and DRINK

In addition to its music scene, Glasgow also has

Glasgow is known — surprisingly — for its Indian cuisine, and we’re

his dystopian portrayal of Glasgow in his novel

restaurants? “There’s a bar/music venue called Bloc + that serves amazing

a vibrant arts community. It’s home to influential

writer/painter Alasdair Gray who’s known for Lanark, which he penned over the course of four years. The iconic Kelvingrove Art Gallery and

Museum in the West End, which opened 1901, houses Scottish art, European arms and armor,

and more. Bob Hardy: “The best commercial galleries to see contemporary art are Mary Mary

Gallery on Dixon Street, near St. Enoch Square, and The Modern Institute on Osborne Street. They both have frequently changing exhibitions

and their openings act as something of a social 22 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

hub for the Glasgow art scene.”

told Mother India is the place to be. Another local delicacy: Iain Cook craves black pudding whenever he’s away from home. Some of the best food. The head chef is known as the Mad Chef and describes the menu as

‘classy street trash.’ I’d definitely recommend popping in for a visit. It’s super cheap and tasty, plus the bar has a great jukebox,” Pinact tells us.

Louis Abbott says you might see this common sports drink while you’re in the city: “Irn Bru (the sweetest and most orange drink in the world)

should get a mention. It’s a very hard flavor to describe, but always helps a hangover when served freezing cold.”

SHOPPING

Local insider tip from Sarah Martin: go to South Street for unique goods. “There’s a salvage yard and a good vintage furniture warehouse.”

Best Of bEsT CoFFEE artisan roast, West End (Admiral Fallow, CHVRCHEs, Franz Ferdinand) Papercup, West End (belle & sebastian, Pinact)

bEsT RECoRd sHoP love music and mono, City Centre, Merchant City (Admiral Fallow) monorail, City Centre, Merchant City (belle & sebastian, CHVRCHEs, Franz Ferdinand, Pinact)

bEsT VIEW from the plane when you can see out along the river Clyde, South Side (belle & sebastian) Park Circus, kelvingrove (CHVRCHEs) Queens Park, South Side (Franz Ferdinand, Admiral Fallow) glasgow necropolis, dennistoun (Pinact)

bEsT CITy-WIdE EVEnT orangefest (Admiral Fallow) glasgow film festival (belle & sebastian, CHVRCHEs) From top left: Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland: kelvingrove art Gallery; Loch katrine; Loch Long; Courtesy of nice n Sleazy

glasgow international, a biennial festival of contemporary art (Franz Ferdinand)

bEsT bAR Bloc +, City Centre (Admiral Fallow) stravaigin/The rogano, West End/City Centre (belle & sebastian) Three judges, Partick (CHVRCHEs) variety Bar, City Centre (Franz Ferdinand) nice n sleazy, City Centre (Pinact)

bEsT nEIGHboRHood govanhill (Admiral Fallow)

sIGHTsEEInG And nATuRE

Partick (belle & sebastian, Pinact) finnieston (CHVRCHEs)

Glasgow has long winters, warm summers, and endless opportunities for sightseeing.

west end (Franz Ferdinand)

Finnieston bar on a chilly day; Bowling Marina, if you can be bothered to go ten

jaw Brew (Admiral Fallow)

had; a trip to The Whangie in the Kilpatrick Hills is worthwhile; it’s an ancient

joker iPa by williams Brothers Brewing

Highlands.” The best season he says? Definitely fall. “It’s the best time of year in

west brewery (Pinact)

Sarah Martin lets us in on some of the city’s most romantic spots: “The Cloisters at

the University of Glasgow; Glasgow Botanic Gardens; a booth by the fire in The

bEsT loCAlly-bREWEd bEER/sPIRIT

“You can be in the hills within 40 minutes by car. There are some great walks to be

(belle & sebastian)

no documented evidence of this. It has great views towards Loch Lomond and the

Tennent’s lager (Franz Ferdinand)

miles west of town along the canal.” Bob Hardy knows where to take in the views:

st. mungo lager from west brewery

rock formation created by the devil flicking his tail as he flew past, although there’s

(CHVRCHEs)

Glasgow; the long dark reality of winter has yet to hit and it’s not summer, so there isn’t that underlying disappointment that it’s not hot and sunny,” he says. If you’re

looking for a gem that’s off the beaten path: “There’s an old Odeon Cinema building

right in the city center that has been disused since I moved through. I was always hoping they’d do something cool with it, but it remains empty,” says Louis Abbott.

COLLIDE . 23

Thomas HĂ¸yrup Christensen

city guide

copenhagen DENMARK

As Told by:

Choir of Young Believers Fallulah Kasper Bjørke MØ My Bubba Oh Land Rasmus Stolberg COLLIDE . 25

CITY guide

COPENHAGEN

Denmark is so inextricably linked to the water that moves through its many passageways and islands, it only makes sense that its capital began as a fishing village in the 10th century. This link is perhaps the reason Copenhagen has crafted itself into a city that isn’t just planted in a location, but rather it and the land have formed a kinship with each other. The city’s muted tones of white, taupe and blue act as a mirror of the surrounding nature, and that kind of harmonious relationship can be found everywhere — between land and sea, technology and nature, old and new. Rather than car honks, bicycle bells rule the streets and the buildings don’t block the sky. As MØ says, “You see the sky in Copenhagen — we don’t have skylines all over the place, and you never really feel trapped which is something I really appreciate, and it definitely influences me in a positive way.” But within this spacious and muted tonality, dissonance occurs — pops of red and orange line the streets and innovators thrive. As Oh Land says, “Danes aren’t afraid of color.” ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Visual Art Dating back to the Nordic Bronze age, Denmark has been producing art for thousands of years but it wasn’t until the advent of the golden age of painting

band MOR), and has been shooting me for my solo project a ton of times ever since,” says MØ. Music

in the early 19th century that Danish art began to flourish. Later, in the years

Denmark has a rich musical history, from their classical composers to the thriving

this iconic style. “My favorite design aesthetics are Danish and Japanese,” says

Danish and international artists. Both their smaller stage and the big one are

following World War II, the Danish modern movement became the pinnacle for

mid century furniture design and continues to be with the recent resurgence of Fallulah. “I am especially fond of wooden furniture — the feeling of bringing nature inside. It’s chic and timeless and makes me feel at home.”

To view some contemporary Danish art, Rasmus Stolberg suggests heading over to Louisiana Museum of Modern Art: “It makes for a great day trip. If you visit in

the summer, bring your swim gear. On the way you can stop at Dyrehaven and go

for a walk among the deer.” If you’re looking for the city’s best street art, Kasper

Bjørke names Tullinsgade street in the Vesterbro neighborhood. “But honestly,”

he says, “I think some of the most interesting art is inside the galleries these days. For example, V1 Gallery in Vesterbro represents some of the artists that

you would categorize as street artists, but they do so much more than paint on walls now.” He mentions artist Olafur Eliasson, saying, “His installations, objects

and architectural work is fantastic.” Among Copenhagen’s younger generation of

artists is photographer and friend to MØ, Fryd Frydendahl. “[She] is one of the

best and most relevant artistic photographers in Denmark right now. She shot the cover of the very first EP I ever participated in (Fisse I Dit Fjæs with my punk

jazz scene in the 1920s. One of the city’s staples is concert house Vega. Fallulah

describes it as a “classic Copenhagen spot that is lining up great gigs with both great to perform on.” The Christiania area, also known as Freetown Christiania,

is a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood otherwise regarded as a large commune. The place abounds with creative spaces and venues, many of which MØ has played. “Christiania was the first place I ever played a concert as MØ, and

that was back in my rapping days! It was in the venue called Operaen. I think I

have played almost all the venues in Christiania, ‘cause we played there quite a bit with my old punk band, but one place I still haven’t played in Christiania is probably their biggest venue: Den Grå Hal!”

Looking for a great event or festival? Rasmus Stolberg suggests the Copenhagen Jazz Festival: “[It] is a great annual event with hundreds and hundreds of concerts.

They present a very diverse program. I would also come for the film festivals CPH:DOX and CPH:PIX — they both feature great programming and include

concerts as well.” For something a little more rowdy, Oh Land recommends Distortion: “It’s a crazy party full of events taking place in the streets. The atmosphere is a bit similar to SXSW in Austin.”

City Soundtrack Choir of Young Believers, Rasmus Stolberg: “Copenhagen” by Scott Walker

Fallulah: “København” by Ulige Numre

Kasper Bjørke, MØ: “Copenhagen” by Sods Oh Land: “White Nights” by Oh Land

26 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE Hellebæk at Helsingør: Ty Stange

Iwan Baan

if you wanT a real CoPenhagen exPerienCe, renT some Bikes and use Them as your main TransPorTaTion around The CiTy. jusT make sure To Be Careful and know ThaT naTive Bikers are PsyChos. — FaLLULaH CHoIR oF younG bElIEVERs

after the breakup of band lake Placid, guitarist jannis noya makrigiannis moved to the greek island of samos in 2006 to begin the solo project that would eventually become Choir of young Believers. The band has a large rotation amongst its members, and with an eclectic range of backgrounds and musical tastes, the resulting sound is an expansive and cinematic take on pop. The band’s latest album Grasque was released in february of 2016.

kasper Bjorke: Jesper damsgaard; MØ: Louie Banks

FAllulAH

singer-songwriter maria apetri, also known as fallulah, has released two full-length albums and multiple hit singles, including “i lay my head, “Bridges,” and “out of it,” which reached #1 on the danish hit list and radio list. her most recent album, Perfect Tense, was released in february of 2016, and includes the haunting pop ballad “ghostfriend.”

kAsPER bJØRkE

Electro artist Kasper Bjørke ﬁrst gained popularity in the late ‘90s as one half of the disco duo filur, and has since gone on to release material as both a solo artist and collaborator. as a dj he’s played venues around the world and has done remixes for artists like moby, all while helping launch the label fake diamonds. he helped develop acts like oh land, and now represents bands Trentemøller and reptile youth. his latest solo album after Forever was released in 2014.

MØ

electropop artist karen marie Ørsted, otherwise known as mØ, has produced multiple hits that include collaborations with artists like avicii, iggy azalea and major lazer. originally part of the punk project mor, mØ went on to create an electro sound, taking with her a punk sensibility and a fearless vision. her debut album no Mythologies to Follow was released in 2014. her most recent single, “kamikaze,” was released last year, with her sophomore album due out sometime in 2016.

My bubbA

Based in Copenhagen, swedish/icelandic duo (my larsdotter lucas and guðbjörg Tómasdóttir) crafts acoustic tunes that harken back to a time when songs were more intimate, soulful, and pure in their simplicity. The duo has released an eP and two full-length albums, their most recent being Goes abroader in 2014, and is currently working on their next release.

oH lAnd

singer-songwriter oh land, born nanna Øland fabricius, draws on a range of musical styles from electro to orchestral pop for the four full-length albums she’s released. originally a dancer, an injury put an end to her dancing days, which in turn jump-started her musical career. oh land is also an actress and has appeared in multiple ﬁlms, including the 2014 Danish western “The salvation.”

RAsMus sTolbERG

rasmus stolberg is a founding member of liima, the latest project from the electro indie artist that combines his previous band efterklang with finnish percussionist Tatu rönkkö. in addition to playing with liima, he is a co-founder of radio station The lake radio, and has curated multiple events and festivals including Berlin’s By the lake festival. liima’s debut album is due out in march 2016.

COLLIDE . 27

CITY guide

COPENHAGEN

MY BUBBA’S COPENHAGEN HIGHLIGHTS Frederiksberg Svømmehal - Helgesvej 29

Lovely swimming pool from the 1930’s with an excellent spa area (lots of My bubba scrubbing done here).

Strengelegen - Turesensgade 14

Torben runs this small shop full of old and

beautiful instruments. He also takes care of ours

when they need tending to. Come down for a jam or cup of coffee with Torben, and say hello for us. Sporvejen - Gråbrødretorv 17

A burger restaurant inside an old trolley car! We like to eat here. Nice potato boats. FN92 - Larsbjørnsstræde 6

Favoritten - Vej 13

Old candy store where everything is in jars

behind the counter and priced per piece — you have to point at what you want and say please. Central Hotel & Cafe - Tullinsgade 1

Tiny cafe (with a tiny hotel upstairs — only one room!) where we do most business meetings. Lagkagehuset - Torvegade 45

My’s old bakery job. Grab a Danish and browse cute Scandinavian girls behind the counter. Tjili Pop - Rantzausgade 28

Tjili Pop is a chill café hosting weekly showcases. My bubba played their first concert here in 2008, with their eyes closed throughout all four songs.

Pauli Tvilling collects high-quality vintage ladies’

wear and his shop feels like a museum of beauty. Some of our dresses come from here. Ved Stranden 10 - Ved Stranden 10

Oh, the wine bar. We spend most of our hours out of the house here! All the wine is great! The staff

are all our friends! Monday meal is the best deal!

My bubba at Frederiksberg Svømmeh

There are so many great artists, musicians, entrepreneurs, activists, event makers and over all good people there — I don't think I can even start to name-drop without being forced to leave someone out. — MØ FOOD We can’t talk about the Danish food scene without mentioning the

New Nordic Cuisine movement that has taken the city by storm.

Taking traditional recipes, the New Nordic cuisine emphasizes purity, simplicity and freshness by relying heavily on organic and

seasonal foods. At the very heart of this culinary approach is Noma, ranked the best restaurant in the world by Restaurant Magazine from 2010 to 2014, and it’s pretty much unanimous: “If you are able to get

a table at Noma, then you must go,” (Rasmus Stolberg); “I’ve never

been to Noma, but that one’s supposed to be the best restaurant in the universe,” (MØ); “Well, Noma is in Copenhagen and the whole New Nordic trend is very present in the city. It’s like earthy flavors — lots of local vegetables and herbs,” (Fallulah); “Upscale, gotta be Noma. It’s literally the best in the world,” (Oh Land).

If you’re looking for other upscale options besides the two Michelin 28 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

star restaurant, Fallulah recommends the south American cuisine

at Llama, while Kasper Bjørke compares his favorite restaurant to Noma: “Amass is in some ways even more experimental than Noma, and I must admit I like their wine menu even better. The sommelier

just won an award, which I think is very well-deserved.” On the other end of the spectrum, Fallulah cites vegan spot Simpleraw: “You have to try their tapas and chocolate cake.” In the Vesterbro

neighborhood, Kasper Bjørke mentions Tommi’s Burger Joint and MØ mentions Madglad: “It’s this chill, home-style, cantina buffet

place where you go to get great homemade, healthy and modest food. It’s all you can eat and it’s cheap, and that place is purely made

out of love.” For some Ethiopian cuisine, Choir of Young Believers heads to Ma´ed on Griffenfeldsgade 7. Rasmus Stolberg suggests

forgetting the restaurants altogether and grabbing a “ristet hot dog

with everything on it from one of the many pølsevogne (sausage wagon) in the street. A few of them are organic. Look for the red Ø.” For the “best shawarma you can get,” Oh Land suggests Kababistan on Istedgade street.

Best Of bEsT CoFFEE Kents Kaffe Laboratorium or Coffee Collective at Torvehallerne, norreport (Fallulah) ipsens in Frederiksberg, rist in Vesterbro or kompagn9, downtown (kasper bjørke) Sort Kaffe & Vinyl on Skydebanegade, Vesterbro (Rasmus stolberg) Ingolfs Kaffebar, kastrup (MØ) riccos, Vesterbro (oh land)

bEsT RECoRd sHoP Kaﬀe og Vinyl, Vesterbro (Fallulah, oh land, My bubba) soundstation, Frederiksberg (kasper bjørke, Rasmus stolberg) insula music, københavn (MØ) route 66, københavn (Rasmus stolberg)

bEsT VIEW The view from the ride det gyldne Tårn in the beautiful Tivoli gardens, Vesterbro (Fallulah) along the city lakes in Copenhagen (kasper bjørke) visit Tivoli and go on that gigantic swing in the sky, Vesterbro (Rasmus stolberg) anywhere by the canal (MØ) view from the church vor frelser kirke, Christianshavn (oh land) Top Left: Coffee Collective, Mikkeller, V1 Gallery Courtesy of the artists Wes Lang and Troels Carlsen. Photo Credit: Jan Soendergaard; Amass Interior: Tim Spreadbury

Tycho Brahe Planetarium, Vesterbro (My bubba)

bEsT CITy-WIdE EVEnT distortion festival (kasper bjørke, oh land, MØ) Copenhagen jazz festival, CPh:dox and CPh:Pix (Rasmus stolberg)

bEsT bAR lidkoeb, Vesterbro (Fallulah) sabotøren, nørrebro (kasper bjørke) The bar at jazzhouse in københavn or salon 39 in Frederiksberg (Rasmus stolberg)

lAndMARks And sIGHTsEEInG

karrusellen in nørrebro or any bar in Christiania (MØ) riesen, Vesterbro (oh land)

Amongst the farm-fresh cuisine and canals that run through the city, there are numerous

ved stranden vinbar, københavn (My bubba)

have fond memories of walking around the garden as a kid.” Another outdoor space is the

Østerbro (Fallulah)

on the harbour front, [it] is not the prettiest sight from outside (to say the least) but if you

vesterbro (oh land)

activity, Choir of Young Believers first suggests attending a horse race at Charlottenlund

bEsT loCAlly bREWEd bEER/sPIRIT

there.” They suggest ending the day with a stroll around any one of the three lakes that

Bryghus in nørrebro, Ølbaren in københavn (MØ)

must-see sights. If you’re looking to stay outside, Fallulah suggests the Tivoli Gardens.

“I have played there a number of times before, but it’s almost a magical place to me. I

bEsT nEIGHboRHood

central part of the park,” says Kasper Bjørke. He also mentions the Opera House: “Situated

Christiania or Christians havn (MØ)

Frederiksberg Gardens. “It’s huge and you can’t really feel the city when you are in the

nørrebro (kasper bjørke, Rasmus stolberg)

go inside, there are some beautiful details like the wooden shell surrounding the main hall,

amager, frederiksberg (My bubba)

Travbane: “A girl that works there said that until about 30 years ago, horse racing was

mikkeller, Vesterbro (Fallulah, kasper bjorke,

surround Copenhagen (St. George’s Lake, Student Lake, or Black Pond Lake) or, as

evil Twin (oh land)

and the huge lamps in the lobby are designed by Olafur Eliasson.” For a more exhilarating a really big deal in Denmark. Now there is definitely a very under-appreciated vibe out

Oh Land suggests, head over to the Planetarium: “It’s one of the biggest Imax domes in Europe and they have great night sky viewings and scientific films.”

Rasmus stolberg, My bubba)

city guide

beijing china

As Told by:

Birdstriking Carsick Cars Chui Wan Howie Lee Nova Heart SHAO The Eat COLLIDE . 31

CITY guide

BEIJING

Beijing has long been a destination for young creatives, fostering many a music career with its thriving, DIY indie scene which laid the groundwork for the city’s recent influx of residents. Rent hikes are on par with New York City, causing some venues to close, but Beijing’s artistic infrastructure is strong, and many venues still exist, with a love for music as their driving force. “In a way, the city of Beijing used to have a lot of empty space with creative minds and motivated young people that took the lead and created event spaces out of broken down buses, nasty little bars, warehouses, whatever they could get their hands on. Now that Beijing is gentrifying and getting more expensive, with rent for commercial spaces four times what it was just ten years ago, venues are closing down. But because the seeds were sown long ago, and media is here, artists have survived past this because they’ve moved on to bigger venues and to touring around the country to other cities that have this space,” says Nova Heart. Despite certain internet restrictions, (until recently, there was no access to Soundcloud in China), many indie bands from Beijing still have an international presence and access to versions of streaming services specific to the country: Xiami is a media streaming platform; LeTV is the Chinese Netflix; Youku is the Chinese YouTube. A melding of the new and old world, this capital city is the nation’s political, cultural, and international trade center; it’s also home to “weird food” (according to Howie Lee), and a pretty rad and evolving music scene. ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Music Nascent, chaotic, hopeful, and outward looking. That’s how Nova Heart describes

Beijing’s music scene, which is transitioning away from just rock to include more experimental indie and electronic artists. SHAO still calls the electronic scene “young and at a starting point,” but the city has been very supportive of his endeavors.

“Beijing is the only choice if you want to have a music career in China. Compared to Shanghai, [it] has a better cultural environment. Beijing also has record labels for independent music. Modernsky, for example; my early albums were released there,”

he says. “Beijing will always be the center of China’s pop and underground music,”

says Howie Lee. “It’s easy to meet the country’s best musicians here, and people are really passionate about new music and nightlife. Rock is still the biggest, but

underground electronic is coming up quickly as well. Lots of super young producers have started stepping into the club scene and making their own sounds.”

According to Alex Turner of Carsick Cars, the scene is growing: genres are expanding, and within that, bands are gaining a bigger following. “There’s a lot more activity than before, more bands and fans, but I think the scene is still waiting for something new that really surprises,” he says. “It’s growing fast in this decade; a lot of bands came out and there are many live house shows in Beijing now. Shows are abundant,” says Birdstriking bassist Zhou Nairen.

In Beijing, music venues are called “live houses” — alcohol is served here, but the primary focus for visitors is the music. From punk rock venues to

underground electronic clubs, these venues are the places that are most important to the fabric of the music scene, though some are no longer in operation. Howie Lee: “I used to play in a punk band, and when I first started I was mainly playing at My Uni, then we played at MAO Live

House mostly. It’s one of the earliest proper rock venues and has all the

good equipment.” Alex Turner: “I like School, DDC, and Old What. They

all have very different atmospheric feelings but they’re all run by people who care about music — that feeling is always the same.” D-22, which has been converted into a pizza place, was an institution for alternative bands. According to Alex Turner, the wrought iron ‘D-22’ sign is still hanging on

the wall. Zhou Nairen: “My very first time standing on the stage made me

feel so proud and also very nervous. The venue is called D-22, which was a legendary live house but it does not exist any more.” Nova Heart: “Also there was YGYS (Yugong Yishan), [which] literally translates to ‘the old fool that moved the mountain.’ Place is an institution now and probably the most

important live venue in China, ‘cause it’s the bridge between the small bars

and mainstream success for bands. Pretty much everyone who is a wellknown band has played there.” To see underground electronic shows, SHAO recommends Club Dada and Lantern.

City Soundtrack: The Eat: “Beijing is Sinking” by Chui Wan SHAO: My song, “Ting Tai Lou Ge”

Nova Heart: “One Night in Beijing” by Bobby Chen

32 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Great Wall: Robin zebrowski / Flickr

There’s a loT more aCTiviTy Than Before, more Bands and fans, BuT i Think The sCene is sTill waiTing for someThing new ThaT really surPrises.

— aLEX TURnER, CaRSICk CaRS

nova Heart: Ren Hang; Chui Wan: Xiudi; Cars: Fang zhou; Birdstriking: Fang zhou; SHao: Marie Staggat

HoWIE lEE

audiovisual composer, dj, and producer howie lee lived in Beijing for most of his life before relocating to london and eventually Taipei. now back in Beijing, lee released his album Mù Chè Shān Chū via alpha Pup records on december 4, 2015, which features mastering from daddy kev who has worked with flying lotus and many others. after dabbling in punk for a time, he’s now an integral member of the international dance and electronic scene.

noVA HEART

helen feng is a former mTv vj and the brains behind nova heart. she’s been called both the “Queen of Beijing rock” and the “Blondie of China.” The band, which also includes Bo xuan and shi lu, has toured ﬁve continents and has played multiple international festivals. feng also founded the record label fake music media in Beijing along with Philipp grefer.

CARsICk CARs

Punky noise rock trio Carsick Cars formed in 2005 and released their ﬁrst album in 2007, which was produced by P.k.14 frontman haisong. They toured europe with sonic youth in 2007, and have been part of various other projects including snapline, (li Qing and li weisi are its founding members) whose debut album was produced by Public image ltd. drummer martin atkins. Birdstriking’s he fan is the group’s bassist.

bIRdsTRIkInG

shoegaze trio Birdstriking are woven into Beijing’s indie landscape, counting among their friends other local bands like Carsick Cars. in june of 2015, they re-released their debut album on a recordings, a label owned by anton newcombe of The Brian jonestown massacre, and have even toured with Bjm in the past.

THE EAT

The eat has a slogan: “eat or die.” former classmates guo Zhen, Peng Chao and xiao guo formed the indie rock band in 2012 and have since been signed to the maybe mars label. The trio clearly embodies rock’s no-fucks-given maxim.

CHuI WAn

an experimental, psychedelic four-piece, Chui wan takes their name from mystical daoist philosopher Zhuangzi’s Qi Wu Lun. They toured the US for the ﬁrst time in the summer of 2015, stopping at austin Psych fest. signed to the independent, China-based label maybe mars alongside Carsick Cars, their set-up, comprised of synth, keyboard, guitar, bass, vocals, and drums, is a dreamy smorgasbord of sound with little attention paid to melody.

sHAo

one of China’s leading electronic artists, shao yanpeng (formerly known as Dead J) released his ﬁrst album Mental Imagery under indie label modernsky. he was named “Best electronic artist” at the 2007 China music media awards for his lP, Mental Magic. his dreamy, ambient soundscapes delve into the explorative, and have been featured as soundtracks for movies, and for the plays of Meng Jinhui, one of Asia’s most inﬂuential avant-garde theatre directors. he was signed to the esteemed music label fakemusicmedia / fakelovemusic in 2015.

COLLIDE . 33

CITY guide

BEIJING

From Top Left: Old What Bar: Fefa Aljaro Behai Park: Luca Casartelli Bridge At Summer Palace: Andrew Smith Zarah D22: sprklg

Beijing is the only choice if you want to have a music career in China. — SHAO SIGHTSEEING The landscape of Beijing has evolved dramatically over time, with its architecture transforming from ancient

temples (Beijing is one of six ancient cities in China) to incorporate more Western designs, but historical sites still remain. “I know it’s cheesy, but the Great Wall of China,” Nova Heart suggests as a must-see landmark.

“Go to the Simatai or Mutianyu section, not the Badaling

section, ‘cause that’s a horrible experience and it’s not even the real wall. It’s like a reconstructed fake version for tourists crawling with, well, tourists. Do that in the

early morning, come back in the late afternoon, and go over to the Drum and Bell Tower and just walk

around in the Hutongs. If you really want to do this

town, you need a week.” For more places to take in the view, Chui Wan recommends Summer Palace and

Jigshan Park; Birdstriking recommends Di Tan Park; 34 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

and Guo Zhen suggests checking out Beihai Park. “But

be careful of those weird tourists, obviously they are not a part of the pleasant view,” he says. Alex Turner: “Bigger parks like Chaoyang Park are lovely, but I like

the long, thin strip of footpaths and trees on Beiheyan

Dajie because there are always local people to watch and little places to sit. Maybe it feels even more like an

oasis in the city because you can still see the city from the middle of the park.”

The best time to visit the city? “I’ll say between May

and June. Beijing has super extreme weather. Winter is

too cold and smoggy, summer is too hot, and spring is windy with sandstorms and shit. May and June are the

best times to visit; 20-30 degrees, warm and nice,” says Howie Lee. Alex Turner likes autumn best: “I like the

wind and putting on clothes and seeing leaves change

and eating pears. Winter in Beijing always takes a long, gray while, but the fall before is a calm step into it.”

China is The home of weird food. — howie lee

Best Of bEsT CoFFEE Alba Coﬀee, dongcheng (Howie lee) Zarah Cafe, Houhai (nova Heart, birdstriking, sHAo) autostudio, Beixinqiao (liu of Chui Wan) Soloist Coﬀee, Xicheng (The Eat)

bEsT RECoRd sHoP fruiTyshoP, doncheng (Carsick Cars, sHAo) indie music store, Houhai (birdstriking, The Eat) echo, inc., dongcheng (Howie lee) gulou dajie, Xicheng (nova Heart)

bEsT VIEW jing shan Park, Xicheng (All bands)

bEsT CITy-WIdE EVEnT shuangjing landgent Center square (Carsick Cars) feige vintage fair (birdstriking) sound of the xity (nova Heart)

bEsT bAR yugong yishan, doncheng (birdstriking) dada, Shichahai (Howie lee) mai Bar, doncheng (nova Heart) school Bar, dongcheng (yan of Chui Wan) sos, Gulou (Carsick Cars, liu of Chui Wan)

Food And dRInk

bEsT nEIGHboRHood

Before the Boxer Rebellion, Beijing cuisine was stratified across

gulou (Howie lee, birdstriking, The Eat,

various classes, with certain restaurants and types of food being

nova Heart)

served only to people of a certain financial status. After the Qing

si’de Park (sHAo)

restaurant names. Establishments ending in zhuang, for example,

bEsT loCAlly bREWEd bEER/sPIRITs

the owners.

Charcoal (Howie lee)

Dynasty, this was no longer law, but some after-effects remained, and the prices of culinary fare were denoted by suffixes in

were top-ranking in cuisine and entertainment, while those ending

slow Boat (Carsick Cars, nova Heart)

in tan were designated to quick bites and were often named after

yanjing (birdstriking, liu of Chui Wan)

With major influences from Shandong, China’s eastern coastal

jing-a Brewing (sHAo, The Eat, nova Heart)

Panda (yan of Chui Wan)

province, Beijing’s food, also known as “Jing cuisine,” is vast and varied throughout the city. You can experience the true

local flavor with dishes like Lu Zhu. “It sounds evil but tastes

really good. Classic lower class eat,” Howie Lee says. Chui Wan recommends Jianbing, a popular breakfast street food. “Please

try Punk Rock Noodles at Gulou East Street,” Guo Zhen advises.

COLLIDE . 35

Kevin Collins

city guide

mexico city mexiCo

As Told by:

APolo CAlonCHo i CAn CHASe drAgonS! Kill AniSton little jeSuS loS BlenderS reY PilA VerAno PeligroSo COLLIDE . 37

CITY guide

MEXICO CITY

At the very heart of the country, in a shallow mountain basin, lies the oldest capital in the Americas: Mexico City. The center of the Aztec Empire, the city is built upon the legends of this ancient culture, its subsequent and violent conquest, along with the fight for independence. From an outsider’s perspective, struggle may be its foundation, but it is a city that occupies that very special place halfway between chaos and harmony. The two merge to create a tumultuous tangle of scent, sound and vision. Of the three, sound may be the most palpable; as Verano Peligroso says, “Mexico City is a really noisy place, there’s music coming from every corner, car honks and shouting all around. From the gasman, the tamalero vendors, the commuter, and all those people that go through the streets with really weird recordings of people shouting what they’re selling. To add to things, there’s a new seismic alarm that can be heard all over the city; there’s even a tribal remix.” Besides being the oldest city in the western hemisphere, it’s also one of the largest; sprawling across 16 boroughs, 20 million people call DF home. “When you’re landing in Mexico City and you see the sprawl and the massiveness of the city that is eating over the mountains, it’s not beautiful, but it’s definitely impressive,” says Rey Pila. ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Visual Art From the indigenous iconography of the early 1300s to the birth of

Muralism after the revolution, Mexico City has a vast and rich artistic

history. This mingling of old and new is an unavoidable part of the city’s fabric: “Modernism has been something really big in Mexico since the end

of the Revolution; you can see examples of this everywhere, from buildings

Poets and writers also hold an important place in the city’s history, whether

by documenting a revolution or depicting daily life. I Can Chase Dragons! lists

author Valeria Luiselli as a favorite (“I wish I could put words in Spanish like

she does”), while CALONCHO cites poet Ashauri López as the “voice of a new hedonistic generation.” Music

to houses, to public sculptures and art. But you can’t avoid all the chaos that

Like Mexico’s art and urban landscape, its music spans many genres, from the

in the music we do,” says Verano Peligroso.

Siqueiros’ basement. It’s a small hall with the seating in a circle around the stage.

surrounds us. We’re always trying to bring Mexico to a modern age but we keep holding onto the roots of ourselves, and this is always a big inspiration

So where can we find some of DF’s famous murals? Rey Pila: “There are a lot of impressive murals in DF. There’s a very cool ROA in La Lagunilla, a Futura near the Metrobus station of Reforma. Then there are a few nice pieces by Saner, a

Mexican artist, around the city. They are not all in the same neighborhood, but

if you go around delegación Cuauthémoc towards downtown you’ll see a lot of amazing street art.” Verano Peligroso also suggests heading towards the streets around the Roma, Juarez and Centro neighborhoods.

traditional Mariachi to today’s rock/pop scene. Looking for an intimate show? Los Blenders recommends Fe de Ciegos, and I Can Chase Dragons! says, “Polyforum Perfect for an up-close show.” For something a little grander with a little less rock,

Rey Pila suggests the Palacio de Bellas Artes. As for a festival, Little Jesus names

Festival Nrmal, which brings together up-and-coming artists from all over the

world. For an entirely different sonic experience, Verano Peligroso describes an exhibition at the MUAC UNAM (University for Contemporary Art): “You can enter into a one of a kind space for sound exploration. Here you’ll find more than 27

Genelec speakers and two super big subwoofers. It’s a great place to escape from all the honks and loud music that flood the city.”

I admire all the people that day to day do a ridiculous amount of work to have a decent life, and I really admire how all “chilangos” are always willing to have a good laugh and a moment of joy with each other. — Verano Peligroso CITY SOUNDTRACK Apolo: “Black Magic Woman” by Santana

CALONCHO: “Today is the Day” by Yo la Tengo

I Can Chase Dragons!: “Por Medio De La Lectura” by Los Amparito Kill Aniston: “The Diamond Sea” by Sonic Youth Little Jesus: “Farolito” by Agustín Lara

Los Blenders: “Sábado Distrito Federal” by Chava Flores Rey Pila: “Digital” by Joy Division

Verano Peligroso: “El Sonidito” by Hechizeros Band

38 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Bellas Artes: Polo Camargo

zócalo: ken Fisk

APolo

lITTlE JEsus

CAlonCHo

los blEndERs

forming in 2007 in Chihuahua, mexico, the band later relocated to mexico City and has since released an eP and two full-length albums, the most recent being Guardian in 2015. with their classic rock sound, the band radiates an unapologetic energy, which can be heard from the many stages they’ve shared with bands like the yeah yeah yeahs, deftones, Blur and more.

singer-songwriter oscar Castro, also known as CalonCho, takes inspiration from folk, reggae and ’60s beach rock, and is known for using organic found sounds during his recording process. his signature chill and nostalgic vibes can be heard on albums, Fruta (which was nominated for two latin grammy awards) and Fruta (Vol. II).

The hooligans and all-around crazy dudes that make up los Blenders create surf rock with a heavy dose of garage attitude. They released debut album Chavos Bien in 2015, and have quickly risen in the indie rock ranks while also squeezing in a Corona commercial with will.i.am.

I CAn CHAsE dRAGons!

following the breakup of los dynamite, diego solórzano began rey Pila as a solo project, releasing his debut album in 2010. after gaining three members, the band moved to new york to start work on their next release, during which they were signed to julian Casablancas’ label. They subsequently embarked on an international tour to support albert hammond jr., and in 2015 the new wave synth rockers released their sophomore album, The Future Sugar.

i Can Chase dragons! is the solo project of julio gudiño. Taking tropical melodies and meshing them with an electro-pop, psychedelic sound, his music is full of infectious energy. he released his debut album Expansión in 2012, followed by a slew of singles.

kIll AnIsTon Caloncho: diego Guillen

founder santiago Casillas, along with the rest of the members that make up ﬁve-piece indie band Little Jesus, is an expert in writing catchy dance tunes infused with pop hooks and afrobeat rhythms. The band released debut album norte in 2013 and has played in festivals around the world including sxsw, Beautiful noise festival and more.

led by frontman josue guijosa, folk-rock band kill Aniston released its ﬁrst album, The divorced, in 2006, and has since released ﬁve albums. In 2012, Guijosa created and embarked on the kasas tour as a reaction to music industry bureaucracy. The tour consisted of the band playing shows right in fans’ homes all over the country and has continued every year since.

REy PIlA

VERAno PElIGRoso

verano Peligroso is made up of djs jacintodiyeah! and esamiPau!, who have come together to create a mix of neo-cumbia and indie folk. The duo released their debut eP Culpable in 2012, and single “meneo Perreo” in october 2015. The single, along with its three remixes, derives from the band’s visit to singapore where they performed at a day of the dead show.

COLLIDE . 39

CITY guide

MEXICO CITY

Taxi: cerulean5000 Desierto de los Leones: vladimix Casa Gilardi by Luis Barragan: Rand Lemley Discoteca: María Letona

Mexico City is well-known for its hectic, day-long traffic, and Mexicans are not afraid of using their honks. At night I always hear barks from stray dogs, which are all around the city. But the most particular sounds of DF come from people selling and buying stuff through PA announcers attached to the roof of a pickup truck, or sometimes just a bike. — Rey Pila FOOD Mexican food, especially in the western United States has become somewhat of a staple, ubiquitous

among its residents and craved by most every Californian. But here in the US, our knowledge is limited, and our palates are sorely missing out on the array of flavors Mexico offers. Perhaps it’s

because our street food culture is limited to a few trucks here and there. As I Can Chase Dragons! says, “Mexico loves its street food and you can find a wide variety in a couple of blocks. Tamales,

tacos, tortas, tlacoyos, tlayudas. Anything with a T!” For divey options, Rey Pila suggests Cantina del Bosque and El Parnita on Yucatan St., Colonia Roma: “The battered shrimp tacos, ‘taco huerfano,’

are delicious.” CALONCHO recommends Tortas de Fuego: “There’s a great five pastor taco combo for 25 pesos (amazingly cheap),” while Kill Aniston says Casa de Toño has “great food for a great

price.” Looking to make your own food? Los Blenders mentions Mercado de San Juan, “where you can buy any kind of meat like crocodile, lion, snake, deer and hog.”

For more upscale options, Verano Peligroso describes the food at Limosneros as “amazing, and the details in presentation and how they serve things up feels like a ritual each time. You even have the chance

to design your own salsa and watch how it is made in the traditional molcajete [mortar and pestle].” 40 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Apolo suggests Japanese restaurant Mog, while Rey Pila recommends Quintonil and Pujol.

Best Of bEsT CoFFEE la finca santa veracruz, Juárez (Apolo) Café Passmar, del Valle (CAlonCHo) Café el jarocho, Coyoacán (I Can Chase dragons!, little Jesus, los blenders) almanegra, narvarte (kill Aniston) Panadería by rossetta, Roma norte (Rey Pila) almanegra and dosis Cafe, narvarte/Roma norte (Verano Peligroso)

bEsT RECoRd sHoP la roma records, Roma norte (Apolo, los blenders) la discoteca online, Roma norte (CAlonCHo) discos mono, Roma norte (I Can Chase dragons!, little Jesus, Rey Pila, Verano Peligroso) Carcoma records, Condesa (kill Aniston)

bEsT VIEW Palacio de Bellas artes (Apolo) from the plane while arriving. (CAlonCHo) Top of the Chapultepec Palace. (I Can Chase dragons!) ajusco mountains (kill Aniston) Torre latinoamericana (little Jesus) I like the view from the second ﬂoor of Periferico. (los blenders) Top of the monumento de la revolución, and the Terrace of the gran hotel de méxico (Verano Peligroso)

bEsT CITy-WIdE EVEnT festival marvin (Apolo, I Can Chase dragons!) el Paseo dominical (CAlonCHo) festival los grises (kill Aniston) día de muertos (little Jesus, Verano Peligroso) raymondstock (los blenders) mutek & festival Bestia (Rey Pila)

bEsT bAR Pizzas del Perro negro, Condesa (Apolo) el imperial, Condesa (CAlonCHo) Cato alexander, Condesa (I Can Chase dragons!) real under, Condesa (kill Aniston) Covadonga, Roma norte (little Jesus) el under, Condesa (los blenders) mezcalería el Bósforo, Centro Poniente (Rey Pila) Baltra, Condesa (Verano Peligroso)

lAndMARks And sIGHTsEEInG

bEsT nEIGHboRHood

Despite its endless sights and the melange of style, there is a common,

roma (Apolo, I Can Chase dragons!, Rey Pila, Verano Peligroso)

but for some reason it all feels like part of the same thing. I think that

san Ángel (little Jesus)

Ribera (Verano Peligroso), the Espacio Ecultórico inside of UNAM

french Bulldog (Apolo)

Casa Luis Barragán, which Rey Pila says includes, “a guided visit of

el depósito (kill Aniston)

he grew up, and Little Jesus says, “there are several mountains and

mezcal from el Bósforo or Palenquito (Rey Pila)

unifying thread that runs through the city. Little Jesus: “It’s such a big

Coyoacán (CAlonCHo)

city and everything changes a lot from neighborhood to neighborhood,

Pueblo de santo Tomas ajusco (kill Aniston)

For some architectural gems, look to the gazebo in Santa María la

bEsT loCAlly bREWEd bEER/ sPIRIT

the Biblioteca Vasconcelos built by Alberto Kalach, and museum

yubarta clara (I Can Chase dragons!)

escape, Kill Aniston recommends the Ajusco Mountains where

Cosaco (los blenders)

eclectic vibe can definitely be seen, heard or read in the things I do.”

(Rey Pila), The National Center for the Arts (I Can Chase Dragons!),

Pulque (CAlonCHo)

the architect’s house — totally worth it.” For a more nature-inspired

modelo especial (little Jesus)

forests that surround the city, and we go to a place called Desierto de

ancho reyes from Puebla (Verano Peligroso)

los Leones to write songs far from the cars and noise.”

Dean Ray

city guide

baltimore maryland

As Told by:

Dan Deacon Dave Heumann Ed Schrader Expert Alterations Horse Lords PulseWidthMod Wume COLLIDE . 43

CITY guide

BALTIMORE

Though it’s Maryland’s largest city, Baltimore is known for its tight-knit scene and accessible arts community. The backdrop for HBO’s The Wire, which highlighted the intriguing, gritty underlayer of the harbor-adjacent metropolis, Baltimore is rich in history, playing a key role in the American Revolution, and referred to as “home” by talents like Billie Holiday, Edgar Allen Poe, and native John Waters. “The city is full of real, down-toearth people who enjoy the same kinds of things that everyone else does: swimming, grilling food on summer holidays, playing ball in the park, etc. It’s definitely not all crime and civil unrest,” Dave Heumann says. ARTS AND ENTERTAINMENT Music “It’s hard to imagine what I would be like as a composer or a performer had I moved elsewhere,” says Dan Deacon, who started the arts and comedy collective

Wham City in Baltimore’s Copycat Building in 2004. Copycat’s pervasive

community has expanded to include many local artists over the years. Wume’s April Camlin describes the warehouse space as a “haven for artists for over

a decade. I didn’t go to college in my twenties, so living there was truly an educational experience.”

only semi-legit space that the parties would happen at was an old warehouse turned into an art space called Graffiti Warehouse. I think [it’s] one of the most beautiful spots in the city. At night you see the light of nearby buildings,

and street lights shine on the artwork from afar.” Horse Lords: “There are more

above-ground places to play these days, which is a good thing, but has taken some of the pressure off of DIY venues. There aren’t quite as many warehouse

shows as there were a few years ago, but we still play those kinds of shows, and the community is still strong.” Visual Art

Every musician and local we talk to about Baltimore doesn’t fail to mention the

Wume recommends checking out the Current Gallery, which does outdoor

Buffalo New York for two people. It changed my life, and I thought ‘why not

demolished. The surrounding area is a designated ‘free speech zone,’ making it an

community’s closeness, and it’s clear members of the scene overlap in more ways than one. “Dan Deacon, who I met at SUNY Purchase, played a show in

follow that guy?’” Ed Schrader says of why he moved to Baltimore in the first place. Dan Deacon was also the organizer of the annual Whartscape festival, which ended in 2010 after a five-year run. The final installment’s lineup featured local and national bands, including Deacon himself, Ed Schrader, Lil B,

April Camlin, Daniel Higgs, Dope Body, and many others. PulseWidthMod: The

programming. And if you want to take in some local art for free, hurry up and visit

the McKeldin Fountain, “[It’s] a beautiful Brutalist sculpture which is facing being

important space for activism here,” April Camlin says. Need a place to relax? “The

Walters is a great place to get inspired and just think,” says Dan Deacon of the art museum. Horse Lords: “The National Great Blacks in Wax Museum on North

Ave is a national treasure that is sorely under-appreciated. This is the only place you can see both the creators of FUBU and Frederick Douglass.”

It’s hard to imagine what I would be like as a composer or a performer had I moved elsewhere. — Dan Deacon City Soundtrack: Dan Deacon, Horse Lords: “Dance My Pain Away’” by Rod Lee

Expert Alterations: “I Hate Myself and I Want to Die” by Nirvana

PulseWidthMod: “Burundi” by Saul Williams

44 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Druid Hill Park by Lester Spence/Wikimedia Commons

dan deacon: Frank Hamilton; Ed Schrader: alex Hornbeck; Wume: Stewart Mostosfsky; dave Heumann: Matt Condon; Expert alterations: Megan Lloyd; PulseWidthMod: J.M. Giordano

Babe Ruth Statue at Camden Yards ©Visit Baltimore

dAn dEACon experimental electro musician dan deacon moved to Baltimore after finishing college on the west coast. founder of the arts collective wham City in downtown Baltimore, deacon released his latest album Gliss Riffer on domino in february 2015. his live performances are something everyone should experience, and many got the chance this year when he toured with miley Cyrus and the flaming lips for Cyrus’s dead Petz tour, the offer for which made him feel like he was in The Phantom Tollbooth. “i have a pretty weird life and tend to end up in really bizarre situations that i never in a million years would have pictured.” he said. Ed sCHRAdER ed schrader is one half of the spastic punk project ed schrader’s music Beat. fueled by political unrest, the duo’s music is pared down to bass and drums but their sound can fill a room and beyond. A former talk show host and writer for local Baltimore newspapers, schrader is fully immersed in the city’s culture, and a vital member of its art scene. WuME originally from Chicago, duo april Camlin and albert schatz are now proud Baltimore residents. Playing within the framework of “kosmische musik,” a genre invented by Tangerine dream in 1971, they released their analogsynth six-track eP Maintain in may of 2015.

dAVE HEuMAnn frontman and founder of the alt-rock band arbouretum, dave heumann is a Baltimore connoisseur. his solo album Here in the deep came out on Thrill jockey records in october of 2015, and it features fellow Baltimore artists jenn wasner of wye oak, and walker Teret of lower dens. The video for the album’s title track was filmed in the city’s Druid Hill Park public pool. “it’s stately and beautiful, though a bit run-down, and in that way mirrors other aspects of the city,” heumann explains. EXPERT AlTERATIons smart-pop trio expert alterations is guitarist Patrick Teal, bass player Alan Everhart, and drummer Paul Krolian. If you find yourself in the city on a friday, chances are they will be working their day jobs, but they welcome you to drop by. They find inspiration in the city’s local characters, specifically a guy named Thomas. “I’m not sure if he’s still alive though,” they told us. Their debut lP you Can’t always Be Liked was released on october 30 via kanine records. PulsEWIdTHMod maeghan donovan was born in Baltimore and raised just outside of the city, giving her the chance to watch Baltimore grow and evolve over the years. her industrial project, Pulsewidthmod, has garnered the attention of fellow Baltimore denizens wume, and her experimental/ emotive instrumentation has earned her a deserved spot among the city’s diverse music scene. HoRsE loRds Baltimore’s horse lords is andrew Bernstein, max eilbacher, owen gardner, and sam haberman. The instrumental quartet combines classical, krautrock, and african polyrhythms for a bold, entrancing sound.

COLLIDE . 45

CITY guide BALTIMORE

Baltimore has been repressed for a long, long time. Many of the streets have housing that’s been boarded up for years; meanwhile, you’ll notice that all city employees, especially the cops, have what appear to be new vehicles. Since the death of Freddie Gray, there’s been an activist spirit that’s taken over the city. The overall spirit of the people is high and confident; people have had enough of the unfair treatment from the government and you can witness this in the local establishments. I don’t want to sound too cliché, but Baltimore’s being the change rather than just wanting a change.

— PulseWidthMod

FOOD and DRINK Baltimore cuisine is diverse; according to Wume, ethnic options

range from Nepalese, to Korean, to Caribbean, to Thai, to El Salvadorian and Ethiopian. “I love getting bibimbap at Jong Kak at

3 a.m.,” April Camlin tells us. A local favorite is The Crown. Located

in Baltimore’s Station North neighborhood, The Crown is both a late-night destination for live music, and a restaurant serving Asian

fare. On any given night of the week, the lounge plays host to special film events, dance parties, the best in local music, cocktails, and of

course, great food. Dan Deacon: “Order the K-Fries (fries topped

with kimchi and spicy mayo), or the Bulgogi nachos. There is a 95% chance there will be a really great show happening in one of the two rooms.” PulseWidthMod: “Many of the city’s best shows happen here and it’s a regular bar for artists to go to just to chill. I can’t say

up his pop-up dinners again: “There’s no affordable just plain good candlelit Italian

restaurant with sawdust on the floor in Baltimore (pasta and the like). I mean yeah, you can drop $80 in the harbor or buy some boutique sausages, but who’s keeping it

real? Like 1930s New York? No [place] I’ve been to. I wanna smell cigarette smoke and hear Billy Joel blasting out of the kitchen! You should be able to spend $15 and have

a nice plate of pasta in a cozy place, like my Sicilian relatives did back in New York. I

thought, well, instead of just bitching I can do something, and that’s when Pasta: The

Gathering started. It was three courses for $15! Bread, salad, appetizer, pasta, dessert, and coffee. We had some great nights, but I think to make it really work I have to tighten my game, which I can’t do while rocking on stage but, hey, we’ll see! I also think $20 is fair, right?” Right.

For drinks, Expert Alterations recommends: Sweet 27, Club Charles, and Liam

enough about how much I love this place.” For Italian eats, Bottega,

Flynn’s Ale House, “If you get sick of the same faces.” Ed Schrader says, “I love

with fresh, seasonal ingredients.

that shit is normally expensive!”

is at the top of everyone’s list. This cozy spot serves up Tuscaninspired cuisine, specializing in handmade pastas and dishes made 46 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

But if none of these places suit your fancy, you can hold out until Ed Schrader starts

going to Happy Hour at The Owl Bar. Get the martini! It’s a great bar and the

bartenders really know how to make a killer drink. But go at happy hour ’cause

Best Of bEsT CoFFEE red emma’s, Charles north (dan deacon, Wume) Carma’s, Charles Village (dave Heumann) Charmingtons, Charles Village/old Goucher (Ed schrader, Horse lords) 7-11 on remington and 28th, Remington (Expert Alterations) almacks, Midtown Belvedere (Wume) Zeke’s Coﬀee, Beverly Hills (PulseWidthMod)

bEsT RECoRd sHoP The True vine, Hampden (dan deacon, dave Heumann, Ed schrader, Wume, PulseWidthMod, Horselords) Celebrated summer, Hampden (Expert Alterations)

bEsT VIEW anywhere from inside the beautiful green mount Cemetery, Greenmount West (dan deacon) The view from angelo’s Pie in the sky Pizzeria, Hampden (dave Heumann) Left ﬁeld bleachers, Camden Yards, Stadium area (Ed schrader) druid hill (Expert Alterations) sitting on federal hill (Wume) driving into the city on rt. 395 from rt. 95 (PulseWidthMod) from the grand view restaurant in the old folks home on roland ave. in hampden (Horse lords)

From top left: Owl Bar: Merkle Photography; Whartscape: Alex Hornbeck; Station North: ©Visit Baltimore; Adam Leader-Smith

bEsT CITy-WIdE EVEnT The Baltimore uprising (dan deacon) scapescape (dave Heumann) The Baltimore film fest (Ed schrader) maryland film fest (Wume) artscape (PulseWidthMod) The high Zero festival (Horse lords)

bEsT bAR The Crown, Charles north (dan deacon) rocket to venus, Hampden (dave Heumann, Expert Alterations) The Tavern, Midtown Belvedere (Ed schrader) Club Charles (known as Club Chuck to the locals), Charles north

sIGHTsEEInG And nATuRE

(Wume, PulseWidthMod, Horse lords)

Baltimore sights are not just about the harbor. The locals fill you in on truly

bEsT nEIGHboRHood

flocks and it’s really psychedelic,” says Albert Schatz. For the summer?

remington (Expert Alterations)

more tolerable.”

bEsT loCAlly bREWEd bEER/sPIRIT

an eye out for: “I love many of the spires and old buildings. There’s the

(dave Heumann)

on St Lo Drive by Clifton Park.” Horse Lords: “Within Druid Hill Park is

union anthem (Wume)

the best places to take in the views: “I like stand on the St. Paul Bridge

station north (dan deacon, dave Heumann, PulseWidthMod)

April Camlin recommends swimming holes: “There are some great

mt. vernon (Wume)

over 83 at sunset. There are these wild birds that swoop around in giant swimming holes just outside of the city that make the heat somewhat

waverly (Ed schrader)

hopvine dry hopped Cider by millstone (dan deacon)

Dave Heumann also has a slew of favorite lookouts and landmarks to keep

union Pale, and the Brewer’s art beer formerly known as ozzy

overlooking Route 83, and on the east side, there’s an amazing archway

Charm City mead (Expert Alterations)

wheelie-popping dirt bike gang that was featured in a recent documentary,

Baltimore whiskey Company (Horse lords)

old Roland Avenue water tower, the tower at the edge of Druid Hill Park

Peg leg stout by high seas Beer (Ed schrader)

the Baltimore Zoo, where you can feed a giraffe. The 12 O’Clock Boys, a

allagash white ale (PulseWidthMod)

ride there a lot. The hip-hop group Dru Hill, which Sisqó (of The Thong Song fame) was a member of, took their name from Druid Hill Park.”

G N I L L

E H T IN

E R B

E EZ

A TO U R DI ARY BY SWI MM

Hailing from the sunny beaches of Florida, SWIMM was fashioned out of a teenage love for surfing and music by childhood friends Chris Hess and Adam Winn. Through their whimsical synths and airy vocals, SWIMM has come to sonically embody carefree, youthful adventures that inspire a sense of vivacity and wonder. This year, their adventurous nature took them on tour across the US and Canada with Bright Light Social Hour. From slumber parties with Goldensuns to spending Halloween week dressed as goth babes, they captured it all on disposable cameras.

50 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

AdAm. “sAve me some of thAt corn for lAter!” — no “nAcho libre” fAns out there? come on.

there were pArts of cAnAdA thAt seemed like time cApsules to the revolutionAry times. just vAst spAces with spArse fArmhouses. decrepit, dreAry, And Absolutely beAutiful.

hollA bAck boy in mAdison, wisconsin. this wAs An old boAthouse by A beAutiful river.

AdAm here looking stoic on the street corner in nyc. we love thAt plAce more And more every time we go bAck. plAying bowery bAllroom wAs A dreAmy dreAm.

we wAlked through cemeteries in sAlem.

Also hung at haunted houses in Salem. Goth cred through the roof, I know.

There is only one thing more fun than being a babe: Being a goth babe. (We were real goth babes too… not the fake ones that Mac Demarco frowns upon.) We actually killed stuff. Not really, but we did walk through cemeteries in Salem and that shit is legit.

left: Trying to cast a spell on the audience full of unfamiliar faces: “Please like us…please buy our merch… please let us sleep on your floor…please give us hand jobs…” Kidding! Everyone knows millennials don’t give hand jobs. #chivalryisdead

So much love was cultivated on this tour with Bright Light Social Hour.

COLLIDE . 53

L o sYAC t H TC i t y U n c ov e r s LAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s F o r g ott e n S pac e s text + photos by Gigie Hall

The exodus west has long been a coveted journey, with Los Angeles o f t e n b e i n g t h e 75 - d e g r e e o b j e c t i v e , either for those wanting to fulfill Hollywood aspirations or escape the suffocation of their hometowns. But LA has also become an enemy of sorts â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the face of an indistinguishable culture, with no distinctive experience to connect its people. For Jona Becholt and Claire Evans, AKA YACHT, this ambiguity makes the perfect creative breeding ground for their endless stream of pursuits.

56 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Claire: “I feel like there’s this vision of LA that people have which is kind of like an Instagram filter palm tree thing.” Or like a villain.

Claire: “Or like a villain, which to me is so reductive. What LA really

is, is just a complicated, ambiguous place with lots of nuance and lots of different ways of experiencing the same thing. I feel like in New

York, you have the ‘New York’ experience, and it’s very specific, and I think people are reiterating this fantasy of what it is when they’re

there. But here there’s no real right way to be. There are varieties of ways of being and it’s always so interesting to be here and pay attention to things. I love walking in LA. I think when you walk in LA

you have a front row seat to the most amazing theater in the world, but it’s just being ignored by everybody else.”

The prolific pair has written a book together, created an app, designed a line of sunglasses and released six full-length albums.

Evans is an editor and writer for Vice’s science site Motherboard, and if you do a Google search of them like the band suggests,

you’ll find the list goes on. We meet them at Laurel and Hardy

Park on a clear fall day, with evidence of the previous night’s

heavy winds littered across the ground. The Silver Lake park is familiar territory for Evans and Becholt — they live close by and were able to get there on foot. On the west side of the park is a set of stairs that climb steeply between houses to reach the next

block. These stairs — there are many that litter the hills of Silver

Lake and Echo Park — are a reminder of LA’s transportation past when people needed easy access to the rail lines. They are easily

missed by car, but on foot, they become an invitation to the past

and a serious trek amongst the hills of LA. For YACHT, the city is full of overlooked treasures.

Claire: “I think a lot of public art in LA is just ignored; the Peter Shire sculpture in Elysian Park is a great example. He’s a really important artist, and no one knows that he made that sculpture. I

feel like that about all of LA, like most things are more interesting than they appear. You just kind of have to nose in and do research on the ground a bit more, but you can very easily ignore things that are super interesting.”

Because YACHT can experience LA on their own terms, (“We’re incredibly privileged in the way that we deal with driving in the

city. We don’t have to commute anywhere,” says Jona), the selfproclaimed Angelenos (originally from Portland) have become some of the most active advocates for city engagement. Their most

recent album, I Thought The Future Would Be Cooler, acts as a web of interaction with LA. When they announced the new album, they

did so by using drone footage of an LA billboard and a month later, invited fans to print its cover using an app and a fax machine. Then,

with the release of their first single, they made it available during Uber’s surge pricing.

“We used Uber’s open API as a metric to determine when traffic was

surging in Los Angeles, and built a web player that only streamed our video for ‘LA Plays Itself’ during those times. It was intended as an

explicit critique of late-capitalist services that turn the patterns of our world into information to be sold back to us. We tried to invert it, piggybacking onto the information and adding something new. Uber’s just shorthand, really, and particularly convenient shorthand at that,

because it speaks directly to what the song is about — driving around in Los Angeles and experiencing the collision of memory and media.”

While not directly related to their album, their most recent

endeavor, The Triforium Project, is yet another example of their all-encompassing philosophy and contribution to urban space.

Claire: “[The Triforium] is on Temple and Main and it’s one of those pieces of public art where your eyes glaze over when you look at it,” she says, laughing. “But it’s actually amazing.”

Jona: “It was supposed to be the world’s first polyphoto kinetic

sculpture with a laser beacon out of the center of it. It has 1500 hand-blown Italian glass covers for each one of the lights, and it’s supposed to react to people when you walk up to it.”

Claire: “We’re working on a pretty big initiative right now to get it

properly restored and retrofitted, with technologies that actually

work, because that is an amazing public space that no one uses.

It’s right next to city hall, right next to Grant Park, right next to Olvera street, there’s a bike path — totally underused. We want to build an app so that you can send simple, programmable light

music patterns to the sculpture if you’re in a certain radius of it, so it will become a place where people can program compositions.” Jona: “You can play the sculpture.”

With all that these Portlanders have done for the city, we ask them

what it means to be an Angeleno, and what unifies its residents, if anything. Jona’s immediate answer: temperature. As even that can

change dramatically from one side of the city to the other, the pair delved deeper:

Claire: “It’s people that are comfortable with a certain level of

cultural chaos and mixing and ambiguity and lack of boundary — cultures coexisting and laid atop of each other, and neighborhoods without clear distinctions between each other. You can drive on one

of the great east-west streets of LA, and the gradations between neighborhoods are so subtle. You find yourself all of the sudden in Koreatown, and you feel it, but you don’t know when that feeling started. That kind of looseness is fairly common for Los Angeles.”

Jona: “There’s every scene of people, and you can dip into each one and no one cares if you’re not a part of it — everyone’s a part of everything, all at once.”

Most Overlooked building: The Bonaventure Claire: It’s so empty inside and there’s so much unused retail space. I just want to see people use that space. I want art galleries.

Jona: A performance space would be great.

Best View: Lake Hollywood, Elysian Park, The Bonaventure Claire: The Hollywood sign from Lake Hollywood. I like the view from the bar at the top of the Bonaventure hotel or out the elevator at the Bonaventure.

Jona: Elysian Park views, seeing the Peter Shire sculpture below, and that string of perfectly straight palm trees.

Best LA Routes: Benton, Grant Park, Beverly, Fountain Claire: Grant Park and Benton exits are great. Jona: We love taking Beverly across town. Claire: Love 3rd too. Fountain is great.

Best CA/LA resources: Tom Explores LA, Huell Howser Jona: A great resource is a web series called Tom Explores Los Angeles. He’s a fourth generation

southern Californian, who’s made five to 10 minute

videos, maybe 20 of them, all about weird spots ranging from the Triforium to a Nazi bunker.

Claire: When I first moved back to LA and when we first moved to LA together, our big education was

just watching a thousand episodes of Huell Howser. He brought out the best in people; it makes me aspire

to be that kind of Californian, just to be so open, and talk to everybody, and really be enthusiastic about every variety of experience a person can have.

Top 3 Favorite Travel Apps: Skype, Hipmunk, Corner

Skype for international phone calls, because we

still don’t bother to get SIM cards when we travel abroad. All the various airline apps for online checkin and tickets, and Hipmunk. Hipmunk changed

the game for us when it first came out, because it let us look at plane tickets on a timeline instead of just a list, and the app is awesome too. New ways of visualizing travel data is so interesting to us. We

just downloaded this app called Corner that displays flights in the trippiest way. We’re always pocketchecking flights.

COLLIDE . 59

WHERE THE GLOBAL MUSIC COMMUNITY CONNECTS “This is the one time of the year when the entire global music scene gathers in one city...” –Herald Scotland

Learn More: sxsw.com/rainey follow us: @sxsw

Photo Credit: Christy Sanchez

Beyond the Pale

A C o

n l e

c o m e s t o g et h e r t o r i p t h i n g s a part o n Pa i nt i n g W it h

i t i

m e

l BY lauren holloway PHOTOS BY KELLY BALCH

We sit with Animal Collective

in a

discretely upscale sports bar, the kind that are a dime a dozen between east 20th and 40th streets in Manhattan. Several glances are stolen by the game on nearby monitors (hockey?), beers are sipped; french fries and macaroni and cheese are ordered.

The veteran experimental trio released Painting With, their �irst album since 2012’s Centipede Hz, then set out on a major world tour. We delve into the album, touching �irst on track “Floridada,” a driving, exuberant slice of art-pop, as appealing an earworm as any from their catalog.

We wanted to know: why Florida? “I live in LA and I was driving in somebody else’s

car and they had on morning talk radio. This segment came on about the idiotic things people are up to in Florida. Living in the United States, we’re always thinking, ‘Oh I’m

from this place.’ I wanted to write a song about a way for everything to start blending

together. We talked so much about collage and dadaism when making the record —

trying to see the world that way, ripping things apart and pasting things together,” said David Michael Portner, better known in the context of the Collective as Avey Tare.

Dadaism, collage, and �inding new perspective is an apt �ilter to view Animal Collective’s career through. The three have played together for around �ifteen years, live in different

cities, have wives and children, their own side projects, and everything else one might encounter when approaching age 40. Noah Lennox (Panda Bear) released his darkly

psychedelic solo effort, Panda Bear Meets the Grim Reaper, to the usual justi�ied acclaim,

while continuing to live with his family in Lisbon, Portugal; Portner toured with sideproject Avey Tare’s Slasher Flicks, and spent time at his home in LA’s Echo Park; Brian

Weitz (Geologist) focused on family and his restaurant Toki Underground, which is in his current city of Washington, D.C. Here he also makes appearances performing DJ sets,

often with Portner. The three then came together to make a new album, shedding their former sound to create an entirely new sonic statement that is still unmistakably Animal

Collective. Their signature process is to always shirk expectations and explore, and once the exploring is done and that statement has been made, it’s time to take it on the road.

Talk turns to the earlier, leaner days of touring that every band has, the time before buses, families, or Airbnb (the band was staying up the block in a Murray Hill apartment they booked through the site).

“Things have changed relative to the beginning. It used to be just the van, sometimes playing to less than �ive people a night, trying to �ind somebody to crash with, somebody

sleeping in the van with the gear because the neighborhood is bad,” says Weitz. These

days they try to keep tours to three weeks or less for the sake of their families, and they travel by bus rather than driving themselves.

“We often have a good time in the bus together. We play weird games and music and stay up late, which is something we couldn’t do driving around in the van,” says Portner,

making their time on tour sound downright innocent. “But you also don’t get to see a lot of the landscape, which is a plus of the van. Seeing the change of landscape affects you,” he says.

66 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Animal Collective tours are legendary among their fans — not only because their shows

are experiential (Portner’s sister does their stage production, and previous set pieces included kaleidoscopic tubes of stained glass and a giant, open mouth) — but also because you could often catch the next album’s songs being worked out onstage before they were

recorded. They describe a favorite “B tour” of smaller American cities, (think St. Louis or Pittsburgh), where they �irst played the songs from masterwork Merriweather Post

Pavilion, and a devoted audience of several hundred heard the new songs crystallize

each night, but in the case of Painting With, they waited for the album to come out before performing the songs onstage.

“We’ll usually write the songs and go on a couple tours before we even get into the studio. This time we wanted to switch it up [by not playing them live]. We played them in a room

with just us present, but not to their full capacity,” Weitz says, explaining that it was a new

experience for the band. Was this new experience scary or exciting? “Both,” Weitz and Lennox say simultaneously, laughing.

What else is different on Painting With? “All the songs are short compared to other

records where we’ll have 6-minute songs. Nothing’s much longer than 4 minutes,” says Portner. “And [there are] a lot of complex vocal patterns and arrangements. That’s the

freshest sounding part to me,” adds Weitz. Kendrick Lamar’s latest magnum opus was played on repeat while Animal Collective made Painting With in Hollywood, as well as

the local hip-hop throwback station, KDAY. “Some of the beats on the record are more hip-hop,” Weitz says.

Mac and cheese and a side of fries arrives, but the panini and fries do not. “I hope they

didn’t cancel your order of fries,” Weitz says to Lennox, worriedly. “Want some of mine?”

he offers. Lennox shakes his head, and Portner gazes on genially; for a brief moment we get a glimpse into the well-worn dynamics of a band who has played together for almost two decades.

Lennox is solemn when talking about the recording process for Painting With, and several

times he mimics horse blinders around his eyes. When asked about his workspace, he says succinctly, “It’s in an old newspaper press. It’s dark and there are no windows and it

doesn’t smell great.” It’s clear that they block out the world around them when creating; while they mixed the record in Paris over the course of three weeks, they didn’t have the chance to get out much.

The new album de�initely contains Centipede Hz’s kinetic, spiky energy and leans more electronic. Lennox and Portner worked closely together on the intricate vocals; the interplay on the record is captivating, and they sound inspired to be working together, with songs coming out in joyful and sometimes aggravated bursts. “Golden Gal” is a playful, slick groove that slows it down a bit and even feels funk-inspired. Opener “Floridada” and

the following track “Hocus Pocus,” are joyously over-stimulating and full of layers, too

“We often have a good time in the bus together. We play weird games and music and stay up late, which is something we couldn’t do driving around in the van.” — Avey Tare

complex to absorb in one listen.

When we comment that this album is absent of the extended drone passages that are all over their previous albums, and ask if they are done with the drone, Weitz laughs, and says

he and Portner are playing a drone show next month. As if one could ever �ind a pattern or line of reasoning in their trajectory, as if one would want to.

COLLIDE . 67

“If you’re writing stuff for a group of people, you take it a quarter of the way there so everyone else can add to it. I have to know where the song is going to go before I get started.” — Panda Bear

“Things have changed relative to the beginning. It used to be just the van, sometimes playing to less than five people a night.” — Geologist

“We talked so much about collage and dadaism when making the record — trying to see the world that way, ripping things apart and pasting things together.” — Avey Tare

a n i m a l C o l l e c t i v e ' s Avey Tare’s Los Angeles: Favorite Hangout The Vista Theater “It’s a cool, old-school theater with one room.” Favorite Neighborhoods

Echo Park, Downtown LA, and the Arts District Favorite Restaurant El Compadre A trendy chain of Mexican restaurants (his favorite are the shrimp dishes).

Favorite Local Music Winter (“shoe-gazey, rock stuff”), and Los Angeles veteran Ariel Pink

Favorite Radio Station KDAY

Geologist’s Washington D.C.: Favorite Restaurants Toki Underground Full disclosure: he’s an investor in this Atlas District ramen hotspot.

Rose’s Luxury “It’s impossible to get into,” he says. You must reserve a table online at least three weeks in advance. Favorite Art Museums The Hirshhorn Museum. Geologist has done several installations here, and loves ice skating at the sculpture garden. The Phillips Collection

“Art was a big thing for this record, and D.C. has great museums.”

Best Coffee Peregrine Espresso Local Music to Check Out 1432 R Record Label “There is a strong DJ culture in D.C. 1432 R is a cool record label. It’s a community I want to engage with, but I’m not a late-night person. I have young children, and by the end of the day I’m exhausted and I don’t go to the clubs.”

c i t y

p i c k s Panda Bear’s Lisbon: Favorite Hangout The Botanical Gardens “There are never a whole lot of people there. Costs a euro or two to get in. It feels like you enter a different world. It’s dark and mysterious.” Favorite Restaurant

Brasserie de l’Entrecote This french place serves only one dish: sirloin steak with a bearnaise sauce, which Lennox raves

about. “It’s kind of cheesy; we go there for every special occasion. My lady is probably getting tired of me being like, ‘let’s just go there,’” he says. Favorite Local Artist Gala Drop Panda Bear shares a practice space with this Portuguese band. Best Coffee

“There are so many good coffee spots — they all

taste the same, but they’re all good. Espresso is pretty solid in Lisbon.”

Favorite Music Venue MusicBox Lisbon nightclub and lounge featuring live music. Favorite Late-Night Haunt Lux Nightclub “The guy who owns it seems to care about putting

on a special experience, so he’ll often go crazy

on promotion and transforming the club into a special environment, and the New Years parties are insane. It’s too hectic for me, but I appreciate what they’re doing.”

COLLIDE . 73

Carry On

How Hinds Surv

by Rachael Roth Photos by Wes Martin

vives Tour Life

WE FOLLOWED ALONG

as newly-signed Mom + Pop darlings HINDS

toured the world this year (read: stalked their Instagram and Tumblr), and we’re

proud to count ourselves among their cult following. Riding the coattails of their Barn EP and some unrecorded material, the four-piece toured non-stop for nearly two years before their debut album even came out.

“We can’t believe people know lyrics from songs that haven’t been released yet,”

they told us about the crowds so far. Typically their audience is eager to do much more to participate than just sing along — during a show at The Echo late last year,

their feel-good energy managed to gerrymander even the stiffest of LA crowds into an exuberant, drunken mosh pit where the lines between stage and standing room blurred. But the foursome was unfazed by the chaos, feeling triumphant

after a battle with El Niño’s mudslides along the California coast that nearly cost them the performance.

“We were an hour and a half away from LA. We got stuck on the road because

cars were trapped in mud. All the roads started closing, both ways. We made it to a town called Tehachapi. The gas stations ran out of gas. Hotels and motels

carlotta

76 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

were sold out. Twitter and Instagram started burning and we [ended up] at a family’s house in a place called Bear Valley. [We] got to LA at 6 pm, right on time for soundcheck.”

Powerful in their singularity, HINDS is also part of Madrid’s new wave of Spanish artists, like Los Nastys and collaborators The Parrots. “These bands showed us

how we wanted to be live. Both are energetic, sweaty, wild and unpredictable. They are the kind of people you want to know more about when you see them.”

They describe Madrid’s punk scene as tight-knit, where shows happen every weekend and artists heavily support one another — a community they refer to

as a big gang. “The ‘gang’ is really influenced by this new garage wave that comes from North America, Burger Records, weed and beer.”

We already know what the band brings to the stage: dogged musicianship blended with scrappy, ‘60s pop, and sheer intensity (if you catch co-frontwoman Carlotta

Cosials singing one of their weightier tracks, the emotion is palpable), but we wanted

to find out what worldly goods fueled them on their travels, so we asked Ana, Carlotta, Ade, and Amber what they bring with them to survive life on the road.

ana

ade

amber

“[The punk scene in Madrid] is small but strong. Shows happen every Friday and everyone supports each other, it's like a big gang. The ‘gang’ is really influenced by this new garage wave that comes from North America, burger records, weed and beer. ”

PANTIES, TOOTH BRUSH, LIPSTICK, IBUPROFEN, LITTLE WATERCOLORS (A ROMANTIC PRESENT), AND A PINK UNICORN AS MY PHONE CASE. Alright, yes, Carlotta here. I think some of the things

are obvious like clean little panties or the toothbrush.

But there’s no gig that I go on stage without lipstick;

it’s kind of the only girly cue that we follow! The watercolors [are] because I write [in] a diary. Sounds cheesy, but wait, listen, I have a very bad memory and

we are living so extreme and lovely things [happen] that I don’t wanna forget [and] I really NEED to write

them down. And watercolors just make the black Bic pen look nicer. Then, the little keyring with CARLOS is because apparently CARLOTTA is not a usual name in Utah, and a very good friend just gave me that as

a present of love. And finally, the unicorn: it’s just an anti-thieves case.

CAMELS, LIGHTER, CARMEX. It’s…ADE!

1. Spanish cigarettes: keep the budget low.

2. Lip balm: healthy addiction. Always in my pocket. 3. Lighter: You know? To burn stuff.

78 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

KAZOO, POLAROIDS, HEADPHONES, PASSPORT, READING LIGHt, SHARPIE AND NOTEBOOK. Holaaaaa. Ana here!!! Okay so the Polaroids are because

I always try to steal them from the photographers when they give them to us; I would love to fill my wall with them (classic). Headphones are the only privacy you have on tour; we share motel rooms, beds, van, showers, stage, and

even clothes, so it’s great to create an instant small world of your own. Kazoo…this is a pain in the ass…I sometimes play

kazoo in the opening song of the gigs and they immediately break because they are made for kids to play, and I take it

too seriously so I have to buy so, so many and always have

them on me. Reading light is for long drives in winter, when

the sun comes down and you still have four hours to get to the next city and the rest of the band is probably asleep. Sharpie is for setlists and signatures.

DISPOSABLE CAMERA, HI-HAT CLUTCH, SUNGLASSES. Amber

1. Disposable camera because I love to shoot.

2. Hi-hat clutch because I lose them every time so it’s good to have one always in my bag.

3. Sunglasses because they kinda make me feel like an adult.

COLLIDE . 79

Party Animals Lil BUB and Andrew W.K. Talk Travel on Earth and Beyond

by Rachael Roth

80 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

COLLIDE . 81

This year, a likely friendship formed between expert partier Andrew W.K. and magical space cat Lil BUB.

After collaborating for a video off BUB’s album Science and Magic, Andrew W.K. attested to her power and softness: “The time I spent with her absolutely made me a better person,” he said of BUB in a statement about the album.

The ten-track, mostly instrumental album is BUB’s debut release. It reveals something of her intergalactic origins, and

the music scene on the distant galaxy she calls home. “Pop music on my planet makes John Zorn sound like Hall & Oates, and the weird stuff sounds exactly the same,” BUB explains.

We wanted to know more about how these two navigate the world, or in BUB’s case, the galaxy. We learned that their goals while traveling vary. While BUB is often in search of the next fish she has yet to try, Andrew W.K. seems to vie for the journey itself.

“As soon as I get to a place, I’m mostly excited to leave as quickly as possible, because the adrenaline really comes from

being in motion; you really get hooked on it,” he says, admitting he’s not much for beaches and resorts. He is, however, a

fan of all modes of transportation, from trains, planes, and buses, to the autonomy of driving around, while BUB has one clear favorite: “Time. Definitely time. You gotta try it, it’s wild,” she says.

Their surroundings, though different, both reflect and influence their respective work. “I definitely run into carnivals quite a bit on tour. It’s really thrilling because it’s a surprise, and you’ll see a small ferris wheel set up in the distance, or that glowing light, and you can tell there’s a carnival in town. What great luck. That would definitely be a priority for me,

because it lines up very closely with what I’m there to do anyway. It’s festive; it’s a party atmosphere; it’s colorful, it’s energized, and it’s definitely what I want my life and work to reflect,” says Andrew W.K..

“Your music, or any creative or artistic endeavors for that matter, are inevitably influenced, inspired and informed by the people, culture, and surroundings that you are in, whether you like it or not. Take, for example, the song, ‘Born In the USA,’” says BUB.

The two sat down to discuss inspiration and metaphysical travel.

82 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

f i n d i n g a d e e p, w ar m inner silence

Lil BUB: Hello, Andrew. It’s me, BUB. What is your most powerful source of inspiration?

Andrew W.K.: Overall, I suppose my main source of inspiration is just the incredible intensity of being alive. But

within that, it’s always changing from moment to moment. At this very moment, as I think about answering your question, my most powerful source of inspiration is you, BUB!

BUB: Hello, Andrew. It’s me, BUB again. If you were forced to wear a color other than white, what color would it be?

AWK: Well, since white is all the colors combined, and black is the absence of color, maybe I would go with grey — a combination of all colors and no color. Grey is mysterious in that way.

BUB: Hello, Andrew. It’s still me, BUB. Teleportation, clairvoyance, or telekinesis? Why?

AWK: None of the above! It’s way too dangerous to give a partier like me any of those powers! Would you describe your magical powers as having the aim of religion and the method of science?

BUB: You know, Andrew, “religion” was not a term or concept that I was familiar with before arriving to this

planet. At first I thought it was a more complicated term for “tradition,” and soon discovered that it was a much deeper concept. After spending a few years here, I’ve come to understand the role of religion in the lives of the

people of the planet, and with this understanding, I could safely say that my magical powers share the same focus of nurturing reassurance and guidance that religion provides. And you are absolutely right about science; it guides my every move.

AWK: What is the most important aspect of non-physical travel?

BUB: Finding a deep, warm inner silence, and then turning it all the way up.

ning it all the w r u t ay up. and then

Minneapolis We meet Poliça frontwoman Channy Leaneagh on an unseasonably warm December day at the entrance of the Minneapolis Central Library in downtown. Leaneagh, a self-described introvert, speaks with a quiet voice and a warm openness. Our conversation runs the gamut from the local artists who informed her musical experience growing up (mostly hip-hop), to her opinion on the new Bob Dylan mural on 6th Street (she would have preferred a Prince fountain). Leaneagh, who grew up in the city’s south side, now resides in north Minneapolis, a culturally vibrant part of the city that is often overlooked and has been historically underserved, a place where most of the residents are people of color, and where gentrification, to Leaneagh’s relief, has not yet occurred. It’s clear her music is a tribute to the city she loves: she describes the abandoned grain elevators with the iconic “United Crushers” tag that inspired Poliça’s upcoming album title, the “Mary Poppins style” Victorian homes slowly being restored by the community, and Fairview Park with its sweeping view of the city's skyline, framed by an industrial section of the Mississippi River.

Before the band (Chris Bierden, Drew Christophers, Ben Ivascu, and Leaneagh’s husband, producer Ryan Olson) embarked on their international tour, Leaneagh took a look back at the place that shaped her, and told us what keeps her coming back to the midwest.

R i s i n g Channy Leaneagh’s Lov e f o r t h e C it y t h at b u i l t P o l i ç a

W o r d s + P h o t o s b y Ta m a r a S h e v l i n

What was the music scene like in the Twin Cities when you were growing up? My first concert was when I was eight. It was at the Metrodome, and that was Prince. I still remember it; it was very magical. In high school we used to go to this place to

see Atmosphere shows called the Fine Line Cafe. Intermedia Arts used to have a lot of hip-hop shows, too. It was a time when mix tapes would come out, and there was a store in downtown Minneapolis where you could go to get these cassettes [by artists] like Cannibal Ox. My musical experience in Minneapolis really centered around hip-hop

groups like Oddjobs and Heiruspecs, and other groups coming out of high schools. I also spent a lot of time at First Avenue for Sunday Night Dance Party. It wasn’t until I met

the amount of people that I didn’t know, where usually if I’m recording I’m in Ryan

[Olson’s] bedroom studio, or I’m recording amongst close friends, people that I know really well. It was like a recording compound, so there would be three other bands, and a lot of people that worked on this pecan farm where the studio was

located, so it had a very working farm environment. No matter where I am it takes me about five days to get comfortable at any studio. I always feel a little bit like a fish out of water.

Even a third album in?

people from outside of Minnesota that I even started to know about bands like Husker

Yeah. If I could, I’d record everything in my room. I think it sounds fine, but I’ve been told it

Do you still get to see a lot of live shows in Minneapolis between touring and putting

What does United Crushers mean?

Dü, or bands from the punk scene here [who played at] The Bomb Shelter and Medusa. out albums?

I do. I tend to go see local bands if I’m going to go out and see a show here. I’ve seen StoLyette probably more than any other band in the past year. I see the most music when

I’m playing festivals, where I just get to walk from stage to stage and catch up on all the different people that I’ve been wanting to see. Since I had a baby seven weeks ago I haven’t

been getting out that much [Laughs]. But I do like to go even just to see my friends play jazz at some dinnertime show. I like to go to see my friends play music whatever they’re doing.

Poliça recorded United Crushers in El Paso at Sonic Ranch Studios. Was that different than recording in the midwest as you did with your first two albums? Yeah, it was. I mean, we could see Mexico. It almost felt like being in a foreign land,

sounds pretty unprofessional [Laughs].

The feeling on this record is an escape into a utopia, the idea that we can get out from under the crushing reality [while] witnessing the despair. And the record certainly isn’t all

about despair, but that signifies the world right now. You travel the world and you see all

these other cities, and you come back home, and you get to really observe your city again

— the city that you grew up in. A lot of [the album] is witnessing the world around me and being settled enough to look outside myself.

Our friend is a graffiti artist. It’s [his] graffiti tag that kind of looms over the city. There

are these salt domes [in north Minneapolis] covered in all of our friend’s artwork,

inside and out, and he writes all of these amazing, wise quotes, so he’s kind of United Crusher, and it’s in tribute to him, too.

I h av e a n i n n at e f e e l i n g t h at t h i s i s where I belong. I can see the world from here, but this is my base, this is where I’m from, and it makes the m o st s e n s e to m e . It ’ s h o m e . 88 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Minnesota transplants are often asked why we’d live here. I’ve always found that offensive to Minnesota and the midwest, but I do want to ask: what keeps you here? A lot of it is based on family — building a family — because I do have kids; it’s hard to separate that, but that’s a huge part of my love of this place. It has a lot of natural, accessible

magic to it; there are a lot of things that are accessible to people, even if you don’t have money. Lakes, the amount of parks, nature, the libraries, the amount of schools. It’s a lot

cheaper than other places. I think that’s why a lot of artist friends of mine continue to live here and not go to New York or something. With the internet, there’s a way for us to sort of

memories, communities in certain places. New York is the same way for me. You go there

and you get to be around those people that you’ve gotten to know, and every time you go back to that city you’ve gotten closer and you’ve built relationships with them. So there is a sense of excitement to have your old spots to revisit. Your idea of home does broaden; your large community makes it feel like the world is small and that you’re just going back to your different home spots where you’ve built relationships.

How are you preparing to go on the road again with what will by then be a four

spread our work, to make art and make music, and still live in the midwest.

month old baby?

seems like there’s a strong incentive to be here.

just reading about the newest shit that we should have that will help us out on the road

With the community of midwestern bands that help each other and tour together, it I have an innate feeling that this is where I belong. I can see the world from here, but this is my base, this is where I’m from, and it makes the most sense to me. It’s home. What are some of those places that you love in Minneapolis?

I’m trying to really give him a foundation of security right now — a lot of hibernation, and just a lot of chill calmness, so that he can handle the big, big world. And, you know,

[Laughs]. Just trying to be calm about it. I know that it sounds terrifying right now, but when I’m in it, it will be fine.

What is one of the most significant places in Minneapolis for Poliça?

Eli’s East. We go there quite a bit. And, I love bubble tea, which is a really embarrassing

Right across from Loring Park is the birthplace of Poliça: Nick & Eddie [an upscale

Chatime that I love, but I lived in Cambodia for a while so I got used to that kind of stuff.

system sucked, but it was like a party every week. That’s where I really fell in love with

thing, but I’m pretty straight edge so I’m always asking my girlfriends to come meet me

for bubble tea, and they’re just like, no, I’m not fourteen [Laughs]. There’s a place called

And I love coffee shops, like Anelace, Bull Run, and Five Watt.

After touring for so long, do you still get excited about being on the road? I do, because there’s a lot of cities that also feel sort of like home bases. London, it feels like we have family there. And I get excited — really excited — to go to LA. You start to build

restaurant that before it closed in 2012 became a venue when the manager recruited Ryan Olson to host a weekly residency], was not made to really have music; the sound [Ryan Olson’s band] Marijuana Deathsquads and knew I wanted to make music with Ryan. It was a place where it was just so free and you could bring music that you wrote and experiment. Poliça had our first show here, and Gayngs played in the back alley. It

was a great couple of summers of intense freedom. I still remember all of us trying to think of names for Poliça in the alley.

A r o u n d t

W o r l d i 99

n Ce nts

with S a n ti gol d

by Rachae l Ro t h Art by E mil y G o l df arb

COLLIDE .. 91 91 COLLIDE

Santi White has been up all night with a cold. But you can’t hear it in her voice, and it didn’t seem to put any delay on her plans in New York as she filmed, directed, and edited some music videos for songs off her third, full-length album, 99¢. “I guess I don’t have to do the editing, but it’s faster, especially because I’m so particular and since the deadline is quick. It’s just easier for me to get in there, you know?” Rising to prominence in 2007 with her singles “L.E.S. Artistes” and “Creator,” White was formerly the singer of the late ‘90s/early aughts punk band Stiffed (two of their albums were produced by Bad Brains bassist Darryl Jenifer). She’s been in the game for a long time — so long that she’s defining it. “Future even sampled a song that I did with Amadu and Merriam, this amazing blind couple from Mali, and one of my favorites in African music.”

In addition to African tonalities that influence her work and the work of hip-hop artists she hears on popular radio, White’s sound is an amalgam of many genres, from punk (she lists Dead Kennedys and Bad Brains as favorites), to reggae (Lee Perry is a huge influence), to dancehall. “Oh my god, how am I forgetting: Sister Nancy. She’s one of my favorites.”

Aside from being a producer, director, and punk singer, she’s also a recent mother — a life-changing event which informed the upbeat sound of her new album despite its heavy topic. “Being around him,” she says of her son, “the pure joy that goes along with that…his energy is just so wonderful. I [decided] I’m going to take some of that energy and put it into this music; I’m going to keep feeling good while I’m talking about all these issues.” The aforementioned “issues,” include, as one might guess after seeing the album art, marketing oneself as an artist. “I can make the music, but then nobody buys it because they don’t pay for music anymore, so I have to figure out how to monetize myself. You end up doing all these branding deals and licensing your songs, and so much of your time is spent doing that rather than making the art, so it was right in my face,” says White. But as she points out, it’s not just those in the public eye that try and market themselves; it’s all of us. “Even just as a user of social media or a person who’s on Facebook — people are so obsessed with marketing themselves and their lives more than experiencing themselves and their lives right now. It’s always about capturing the moment rather than experiencing a moment, so we can show it.”

In her tongue-in-cheek album cover, White surrounds herself with trinkets that represent facets of her life. “I climbed in a bag, shrinkwrapped myself and slapped 99 cents on it,” she says, laughing. A small price for the masterpiece that is her latest studio effort, which includes collaborations with ILoveMakonnen among others. But is 99 cents really as worthless as it seems? As Santigold shows us, you can find many valuable items for under a dollar — some sentimental, some nourishing — all over the world.

1 I go to Jamaica a lot, and in this area called Port Antonio, and anywhere in Jamaica really, along the roads, you can always get fresh produce, really easily and cheaply. You can get a jelly, which is a young coconut, for less than a dollar. They have a machete and they chop the top off and put a straw in it, and you drink all of the

fresh coconut water. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s called a jelly because the actual meat of the coconut is not all the way ripe, and you can just scoop it out.

2 Recently I shot a video in LA, and the last scene was [filmed] in this convenience store at 1:30 in

the morning. We are all so tired and delirious,

but this convenience store was the most amazing place because it had all these cheap items that

were so cool. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m kind of a hoarder when it comes to small, cheap items around the world. I buy so

many things that I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know what to do with.

This store had a toy vending machine, and they had one with Beavis and Butthead balls in it for less than a dollar. Amazing.

94 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

3 Way back, I went to Tanzania and climbed Kilimanjaro. We went to this little market, and they had

all this antique Maasai beaded jewelry. The leather was all hard; you could tell it was really old. It was so cheap it was almost like [they were] giving it away. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the best things Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever gotten for 99 cents or under a dollar.

4 Most [of the items] on my record cover were things I had in my house, but I thought it would be

cool if I went out and got a couple of things from the store. I recently visited a 99 cent store in New York, and I came across this gold, shiny, jeweled paper crown with velcro, so you could fit it perfectly across your head. And I just loved it. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m telling you, I buy junk.

5 Fast fashion is a big topic in the world right, and I

don’t know if it’s the greatest thing; in fact I know it’s not. It’s pretty insane to think how much they are able

to sell things for considering the fact that somebody’s making the stuff. Somebody is flying on jet-fueled

planes from far away, and yet they’re managing to sell things for so cheap that you can’t say no. I’ve been going on and on about Primark and how you can

get all these shoes for $4. I wondered if you can get anything for $1 at Primark, or the English equivalent. I looked online, and guess what? They had a sale rack of items that were £1 each.

G lo bal f i n d s by

m i i k e s n ow Andrew Wyatt shares his favorite locales worldwide, from the iconic to the nostalgic. Over the course of two years, Andrew Wyatt, Christian Karlsson, and Pontus Winnberg met in Stockholm, New York, and Los Angeles, to record their third LP, iii. When meeting in person wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an option, tracks were shared digitally between the trio, resulting in a progressive, innovative collection that simultaneously evokes their ďż˝irst, self-titled effort. Wyatt explored the surroundings of the cities which played a part in the making of iii and beyond, and divulged his favorite places across the globe.

Nick Zinner, Joachim Belaieﬀ

LONDON

Browns Fashion on South Molton Street is just an impeccably curated collection of men’s clothing and it has a great staff. Not cheap, but ranks right up there with the best in terms of selecting the good bits from many designers’ collections. I’ve found there, more than once, those pieces which became the thing I wore every day for a long time.

STOCKHOLM

Where do I start? I’ve spent a LOT of my life in this somewhat sleepy northern European capital. Although small, Stockholm packs a massive cultural punch. One place to get a good feel for that these days is Trädgården, under the Skanstull Bridge. Here the young people of Stockholm get together to drink, chat, and dance. A huge indoor-outdoor space with tight, jam-packed rooms spinning minimal techno and huge open-air, beer garden-type spaces where the 1970s vinyl plays; Trädgården is more like a massive tailgate party for people with decent taste.

PARIS

Hotel Raphael isn’t in the coolest part of town, but who cares? Where else are you going to see the �lawlessly dressed bodyguards for the President of Togo waltz up and down a red-carpeted staircase, past a JMW Turner on the wall? Actually, it was a minor scandal that the Turner, hanging nonchalantly next to the tiny check-in desk at the Raphael, “turned” out to be a fake. But that’s the charm of the Raphael; it is almost a grand Hotel, and that much grander for it. I can’t remember what room Serge Gainsbourg lived and partied in 24 hours-a-day when Jane Birkin threw him out, but that, plus the whole African leader thing, should be enough to give you an idea of the magic I’m getting at.

LOS ANGELES

As long as we are on the subject of magical places, I want to give a shoutout to the road my house lies off of, the famous Mulholland Drive. I know this is named for the civil engineer (third most favorite??? Pineapple Express ref there) who robbed the central valley of its water, but the road which bears his name is an eternal spring of good vibes, day or night. Sure it’s long and winding, but there is never traf�ic. And you are given a beautiful view to look at all the time, travelling east-west, high above our sacred city. There are moments when you can forget you are in an urban center at all, imagining yourself to be travelling the rolling hills of Namibia. Just don’t let your mind drift too far off — you could hit a deer, and some of those dropoffs are doozies.

NEW YORK

Melet Mercantile, Wooster Street. On the fourth �loor of a nondescript looking old industrial building in Soho, lies a secret retail store, specialising in the un-retailable. I am talking about Civil War tents and second-year LeMans helmets, new-old-stock shoes from the 1880s, a baccarat table used in a ‘60s James Bond �lick, photos of ‘70s Bollywood starlets, cowboy boots and lace doilies from the 1920s Oklahoma dustbowl, and engineers’ boots from the Roosevelt years. If it’s cool and unusual, and somewhere on the spectrum between usable and viewable under a museum’s glass, you will �ind it here.

ART BY G I G I E H AL L

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF ELEANOR FRIEDBERGER

Goodbye To All That You might know Eleanor Friedberger as one half of brother-sister duo The Fiery Furnaces, but after 2011 she ventured on her own, releasing a total of three, full-length solo albums. Up until her recent record, New View, most of her material related directly to her long-time home of Brooklyn â&#x20AC;&#x201D; her songs acted as urban vignettes while the lyrics weaved together clever observations. But with her recent move to upstate New York, her songs take on a different kind of

space, one that feels more expansive and lyrically more ambiguous. In trading her city life for more rural pastures, Friedberger has infused her music with bygone eras and places. Layer this with an analog approach and barn-built studio, and the music exudes location unlike any of her previous records. In our conversation with Friedberger, we explore travel, her decision to leave the city, and the inherent connection between music and place.

Eleanor Friedberger Leaves the City to Gain a New View

by Gigie Hall

(opposite page) On a break from recording in Germantown, we’d walk down to the Roeliff Jansen Kill, or simply, “the river,” to drink a beer. In summer it’s a good swimming spot, and the current can be so strong — it’s almost like swimming in an endless pool.

The exterior of Sunnyland Studios in Germantown. I was enjoying a moment in the dirt, in the sun, AKA “grounding” myself.

COLLIDE . 101

Here’s a view of the control room at Sunnyland, the ground floor of the barn. From left to right, there’s the Ampeg bass amp, Malcolm’s Fender amp, my old Univox tube amp I inherited from my brother, and Clemens’ homemade guitar amp. This was the set up for overdubs; while we were recording the basic tracks with the entire band, we had to put amps into the trunks of cars since there is no isolation in the barn.

Here’s my band Icewater practicing in my factory rehearsal space. The reverb is intense, like playing in an airplane hangar, but the light is unbeatable.

Do you think music and place are intrinsically tied or does music

There must have been some conscious decision to get out of the

transcend place?

city to record this?

I had these five reggae comp cassette tapes that someone had made

There definitely was.

through the southern mainland of Greece, listening to this reggae music,

or did it just happen organically because you were there?

like Greece.” At the time I had never been to Jamaica. I’ve been twice

in Los Angeles before coming back to New York to record it, so

for my brother in the ‘90s — I remember going to Greece with my mother and my brother and I took the cassette tapes with me. Driving

Were you trying to communicate that place through the music,

I remember saying something stupid like, “This looks like we’re in

I think it’s the latter. I wasn’t trying to do that, but I moved out of

since but it was funny in that way. It was warm, and I think of Jamaica as

it made sense that it should have that effect. But like I said, it’s

Jamaica,” and my brother was like, “what are you talking about? It looks warm, but I think the music informed the environment in that instance.

I took a trip to Jamaica several years later with a friend who owns a record store in Los Angeles. We listened to all this incredible old

the city a couple of years ago and worked on these songs mostly really hard to put your finger on why exactly.

Can you walk us through the production process and how that had anything to do with it?

rocksteady and reggae music. So now I can listen to that music and

I wrote the songs on my own, but I presented them to my

So that music can bring you back to its place of origin or to Greece

came back to New York to record them with a friend of one of

it just immediately takes me back to that place. and it works both ways.

Right, very different places and people, so it has that sort of power. I’ve

been trying to think a lot about this in the record that’s coming out in January, and how to me, it doesn’t sound like a city album, and what

that even means. To me it sounds like open spaces; it sounds more like California; it sounds more like upstate NY where the record was made. But I’m not sure why. 102 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

bandmates who I’ve been touring with, and we worked on the arrangements together in a rehearsal room in LA. Then we my bandmates who built a studio in a barn next to his house. We did a combination of recording in an analog way and also digitally, but all of the basic tracks were recorded onto tape

with everyone playing together in a room. I hate using that word “organic,” but it should feel like that because it was a live band.

This is the second floor of the barn, where we did all the live tracking and where Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m testing out vocal mics. I ended up recording most of the vocals downstairs because up here we had too much of the elements to contend with â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the rain and the chirping of baby birds.

Eleanor Friedberger’s Guide to Germantown area, home of Sunnyland Studios: Favorite local landmark: Olana, on the way to Hudson, is the home of the Hudson River School painter Frederic Edwin Church.

It’s an incredibly beautiful house with stunning views of the Hudson and the Catskill mountains. Favorite restaurant:

Gaskins, a recent addition to Germantown. If you’re in the mood to splurge, it’s the place to go. Best way to get around: By car.

Best season to visit: Toss up between summer for the swimming, fall for the leaves.

Favorite local business:

Otto’s Market for snacks, coffee, kombucha, beer — essential for recording.

The corner of the ground floor control room where lies the tape machine and the sleeping dog we were babysitting for a few days, nicknamed “Puppy.” 104 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

I’m walking up to Clemens’ house, behind the studio, probably heading to the bathroom, or on my way to making a cup of tea. Leaves are bare — sunny, but still chilly in April.

The exterior of “Ted’s Room,” the bar my roommate Milton and I built in a room off of our barn.

The room had previously been an office and we gutted and redesigned the space, initially for Milton’s 40th birthday party. It remains as a place where “anything goes,” but mostly serves as a party room for darts, drinking and watching Led Zeppelin DVDs.

Do you think having recorded it that way affects your live performance? Oh yeah, for sure. I think a lot of bands work this way — a lot

of bands who are actual bands and don’t play pre-recorded

music. We worked on the songs and played a bunch of shows

windows, so it’s incredible to just get to play, even if I’m

just practicing by myself in this space looking outside. It’s a totally different feeling.

Do you have any favorite stops in Europe or the US that

on the west coast before we recorded them. So it’s actually

you’re looking forward to on your tour?

had never done before.

that attitude. Even in places where you think they’re just going

the opposite; I think playing them in front of an audience

There’s nowhere bad. I have to say, without sounding too corny,

Is there any particular song you’ve written recently that

to be terrible, there’s something good about it. I’m excited

informed how we recorded the album, which is something I

is attached to a certain place? Oh, so many. On this album there weren’t as many, which I was trying to be conscious of. My other two albums actually

I’m pretty grateful to play anywhere. I’ve made myself have about our upcoming US tour because I’m actually playing in a place I’ve never played before, which is Boise, Idaho.

Musicians travel so often and they can sometimes become

have the names of the places in the titles. I wanted this one to

uninterested in the places they visit because they’re there

already put out, I mention walking over a bridge, and that’s

It depends. I’ve been touring with these guys who I made the

Is there something about being in a more rural landscape

much touring. About two years ago I toured with them for a

be a lot more vague so that anyone could insert themselves

for such a short period of time. Do you still try to explore,

very much about New York.

record with and have been playing with for a couple of years.

into the stories. But on the first song of the album that we’ve

that has changed your mindset at all about music or creating in general? I use it in different ways. Now I have a house where there’s

a room next to the kitchen that’s basically just records, a

record player and a couch. I only listen to records when I’m in there or when I’m cooking, and now there is certain music that I associate with cooking or being able to sit in

that room. I also have a place to play music where I live in

this huge, huge space with huge windows. Most people who

practice in the city practice in closet-sized rooms with no

or do you hunker down and take care of yourself?

They’re much younger than me and they haven’t done that

month, and they were so excited. They hadn’t been to most of these places so their enthusiasm was really contagious. Before that I had been playing with the same people for a

long time — people who had a lot of experience, and like you said, it’s all kind of the same after awhile. But it was nice

to surround myself with some people who hadn’t done it

before. It made a big difference. But I still tour in a van, so

we’re driving most of the day, and I’m lucky if I have time to do anything. If we do have time or a day off we try to take advantage of it.

COLLIDE . 105

Inga Plume

Basement Jaxx

POSITIVUS Salacgriva

Latvia

July

15-17, 2016

by Sabine Brice

Positivus is one of the Baltic region’s most highly-anticipated festivals. It’s the perfect summer escape, complete with a �inely curated lineup (past years have included Warpaint, Elliphant, St.Vincent, Basement Jaxx, and Robert Plant & The Sensational Space Shifters). It is set in a

gorgeous seaside destination, with hammocks hanging in pine trees, and dreamy forest stages to accommodate bands and energetic DJs and dance parties that last until dawn.

This charming, atmospheric festival won’t disappoint even the most experienced concert-goer; visitors will �ind mouth-watering menu items (when it comes to Latvian cuisine, be ready for some hearty surprises), a craft market with handmade goods and vintage �inds to

Jungle

The festival spans three days and nights, attracting 30,000 visitors, and making it the biggest music event in the Baltic region. Positivus

will celebrate its tenth edition on July 15-17, 2016, featuring headliner Ellie Goulding. It may not be the biggest festival in Europe,

but it’s a transformative experience brimming with contagious positive energy, celebrating the best in modern music and allowing participants to forget the world around them, if only for a weekend.

Tickets for the festival and camping sites are available now at PositivusFestival.com.

Inga Plume

spruce up your festival garb, and countless attractions to �ill in time between sets.

st. VInCent

olga gunDerICH

BoKKa

COLLIDE. . 111 111 COLLIDE

martIn marInoV KrIstaPs BarDZIns, martIn marInoV

maris tomba

emIls laCums, Inga Plume 114 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

CourtesY oF PosItIVus FestIVal

WarPaInt

Festival Pick:

TALLINN MUSIC WEEK TALLINN, ESTONIA MARCH 28-APRIL 3, 2016

BY SI HAWKINS

THE CITY, IN STAGES The best way to get a taste of true, not-in-the-tourist-guides Tallinn, is by following the annual music fest’s ever-evolving City Stage programme: free daytime shows lovingly squeezed into Tallinn’s coolest spots, some of which you’d be unlikely to chance upon otherwise.

We sat down with City Stage manager Raimond Põldmaa at one of his locations, TMW’s own Pop-Up Restaurant, to get the lowdown on those

Jaanus Jagomägi

venues before the varied gigs began. Highlights: beats in a bike store, an audience of furniture, cookies made by kids, and a rap-loving dog.

116 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Biit Me The Place: A splendid record store residing halfway up a nondescript building in the city’s UNESCO-listed Old Town. “The guy who owns it is a really crazy record enthusiast,” says Raimond. “He co-owns a

label called Porridge Bullet, and he has a pug who’s famous. He always brings it along.”

The Performer: Said pug watches attentively as Tallinn-based

rapper Typical�low clears a corner of the store and powers through some impassioned Estonian words, offset by accessible, jazzy beats. Agreeable viewing for man and beast.

TMW Pop-Up Restaurant The Place: “This is usually the Design and Architecture Gallery,” Raimond explains. “This year the City Stage is here for one day only. We decided to let the people dine in peace.”

The Performers: Easily-digestible exotica from Noid (Russia) and

The Sexican (Denmark), but more arresting is an onstage anecdote

Must Puudel The Place: An enduringly popular but unpretentious café/bar with backroom stage. “One of the owners is Vaiko Eplik, he’s probably the most popular indie musician in Estonia.”

The Performers: Hip-hop collective 5Loops. The name refers to

their beats, all sampled from five loops, and the old-skool style suits this Old Town joint — modern Baltic beat poets.

Antonio Acuña / CC 4.0

THE OLD TOWN

punk-scene intercourse. Appetite-troubling stuff.

Courtesy of Tallinn Music Week

PA R T 1 :

from The Slits’ Viv Albertine about the grubby ins and outs of 1970s

Telliskivi

MiaMee

Liina Viira The Place: A quiet riot of color. “Liina Viira is an Estonian clothes designer, cool knitwear using old Estonian designs with modern techniques. I think her shop is the smallest City Stage. Gigs there are fully acoustic; there’s no room for technical equipment.”

The Performer: Berlin-based Estonian Mauno Meesit makes stripped-down acoustic songs usually using an old US microphone. Here he’s unplugged, rattling through some impressively intense songs. “I feel quite naked up here,” he says, while standing in front of a wall full of woolly items.

Home Concert (Pikk 48) The Place: A show in someone’s apartment, and a novel experience for all concerned. Visitors slip off their shoes then are sold homemade cookies by excited (but

entrepreneurial) children. “This is the first time we’ve done home concerts: six bands playing in three living rooms.” Lina Vonsaviciute

The Performers: The Swedish/Estonian trio MiaMee, also shoeless, fashion a stage near the TV then launch into a fabulous set, from folky odes inspired by old poetry, to the wild experimental wigout finale. A festival highlight — but what on earth did the neighbors think?

COLLIDE . 119

PA R T 2 : THE OUTER LIMITS Homeart The Place: Tallinn’s new must-visit district is Telliskivi Creative City, “an old industry complex, but five years ago it was empty factory buildings,” says Raimond. Now it’s awash

with hip cafes, offices, clubs, and stores, including Homeart. “They sell home decorations by Nordic design companies, a big shop with a stage in it.”

The Performers: Austrian sextet Polkov strum pleasingly hummable songs, but are clearly itching to plug in and let rip, while there’s late drama from jazzy Estonians The Joel Remmel Trio: quietly diverting piano noodling closes with a sudden burst of fevered box-smacking from their Mo Tucker-like drummer. No home furnishings were harmed.

Tallinn Craft Beer Weekend The Place: In a barn opposite Telliskivi’s shopping street, “is the first Craft Beer Weekend, organised by this Estonian beer company, Põhjala. The craft beer revolution started here a year and a half ago, and it’s growing.”

The Performer: The timeless psychedelic anthems of Desert Mountain Tribe (UK) sound perfect for a beer fest, but tearing people away from the ale taps is tough. And you can’t clap

while holding a wine glass anyway. They’re followed by eccentric mask-clad Estonians St. Cheatersburg, whose singer wields both a microphone and a banana. Baffling.

City Stage

T천nu Tunnel

@LiinaViira M체체rivahe 36

Marko Leppik

Mauno Meesit

COLLIDE . 121

T천nu Tunnel

Antonio Acuña / CC 4.0 Marianne Ubaleht

Jooks Katta Studio The Place: Telliskivi’s beautiful bicycle emporium. “A place for bike enthusiasts, they arrange talks. It’s a place where they can gather. The venue

is being co-hosted by an Estonian label called Kimomo, the label of Anneliis Kits, the singer of [local band] State of Zoe.”

Kali Briis Band

The Performers: Latvia-based Brit Alex ‘Stillhead’ Cowles makes and plays

fine bass cuts but looks a bit glum behind his laptop, like a bored shopkeeper,

seemingly oblivious to the fascinating cycle paraphernalia everywhere. Perhaps he’s pushbikephobic.

Tallinna Kunstihoone The Place: “The Tallinn Art Hall in Freedom Square: it’s one of the biggest

galleries, and it’s the first time that a city stage will be there. Bands playing there are kind of artsy.”

The Performer: The very watchable Estonian MC/producer Rin La throws

shapes for an audience of painted chairs. The actual humans don’t really clap

Jaanus Jagomägi

Mart Sepp

to his raps either, but then, hey, it is an art gallery.

122 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

Nordic Hotel Forum (Lobby Bar) The Place: TMW’s four-star hub, famed for its top-floor pool, has a stage

in the lobby; handy for hungover delegates not yet ready to do daylight.

“The City Stage programme started in 2012 and that year we had a stage in Nordic Hotel Forum as well: four artists gave a small concert in a luxury suite.”

The Performers: Finland-born, Canada-raised, Estonia-based Markus Rafael Nylund sings spiky tales of his Nordic travels, although he’s troubled

here by music apparently wafting through from elsewhere in the hotel. No such problems for Aussie Tim McMillan, who’s armed with guest-pleasing anecdotes, plus a memorable mash-up of Busta Rhymes and Toto.

Viru Keskus The Place: This is no low-key alternative fest: the largest City Stage

occupies a prime spot at the local mall, under a huge TMW banner. “It’s one Tanel Tero (tanel@tero.ee)

of the biggest shopping centres, so the crowd, they’re out shopping and can see some cool music too.”

The Performers: A world away from the stereotypical teen-pop mall-

singers, Israel’s Onogana bewilder unsuspecting locals with legs-apart

punk-rock didgeridoo action. Quite a sight when you’ve just stepped out for bread and a Baltic Times.

COLLIDE . 123

HOPS INTO SPRING

THE RAINS OF SPRINGTIME FALL TO WASH AWAY THE DRABNESS OF WINTER, AND IN THEIR WAKE WE ARE LEFT WITH A MYRIAD OF EXCITING AROMAS. FROM FRESH RAINFALL SOAKING INTO THE GRASS, TO FLOWERS BEGINNING TO BLOSSOM AND THE RIPENING OF FRUIT, COME SPRING, THE WORLD IS ALIVE AND BUZZING AGAIN. AND WHEN THE SUN PEEKS OUT FROM BEHIND THOSE RAINCLOUDS, WHAT’S BETTER THAN CRACKING OPEN A COLD BEER TO CELEBRATE THIS REAWAKENING AND START PREPARING FOR THE WARMTH TO COME? THESE BEERS UTILIZE A SELECTION OF HOPS, WHEAT AND FRUIT NOTES THAT TRULY EXEMPLIFY THE FEELING OF THE SEASON.

BY ELI MCADAMS

YUENGLING TRADITIONAL LAGER

SNAPSHOT WHEAT ALE

YUENGLING BREWERY, POTTSVILLE, PA

Snapshot is light and delightful like a breezy spring day. It pours a cloudy,

We are all for the crazy, hoppy beers that challenge the tastebuds and leave

an impression, but sometimes we just want to sit outside in the afternoon sun with some buds and enjoy something delicious and drinkable.

Yuengling’s Traditional Lager is just that. The clear, pale amber liquid,

topped with a creamy foam is brewed with Cluster and Cascade hops.

There is a tiny bite, followed by caramel, malty sweetness, both on the

nose and to taste. It is light and balanced with such a simple yet wonderful flavor, so one bottle will never be enough! This family-owned brewery is

America’s oldest, having been established in 1829, so they’ve had a lot of time to perfect this awesome lager. 4.4% ABV, 12 IBUs

GRAPEFRUIT SCULPIN IPA BALLAST POINT BREWING, SAN DIEGO, CA

Summer is almost here, folks, and if any beer could summon the sun and

heat we’ve been missing, Grapefruit Sculpin would be the one to do it. This brew looks, smells and tastes like sunshine in a glass. It has a clear,

pale amber hue, and the aromas of hops and bitter citrus reach out to you from a foot away. The taste starts with a bitter bite, then hoppiness,

tart, grapefruit, and mango find the perfect balance before finishing dry and herbal. It’s refreshing, interesting and dangerously drinkable — the perfect beer for sunny days or just to remind you they aren’t far away.

7.0% ABV, 70 IBUs

NEW BELGIUM BREWING, FORT COLLINS, CO

pale straw with plenty of crisp, white foam that leaves gorgeous lacing. Its

aroma is of wheat and citrus, with just a hint of floral perfume and something

smooth — vanilla, perhaps. It starts off tart, followed by a bright, lemony taste, but any desire to pucker is quickly calmed by the silky mouthfeel, ending clean and soft. Refreshing and subtle, this delicate beer makes us think of bunny rabbits hopping through wild flowers under a deep blue sky.

Maybe not your typical imagery while drinking a beer, but it works. 5.0% ABV, 13 IBUs

LILIKO’I KEPOLO WITBIER AVERY BREWING CO. BOULDER, CO The Liliko’i Kepolo (hard to say, easy to drink) from Avery Brewing is an

unexpected delight! We don’t typically expect Witbiers to be this interesting, original or surprisingly tart. It looks like your average Wit, with minimal,

fine white foam over a hazy straw body, but lean in for a whiff and up wafts

strong passion fruit, a little citrus and banana, coriander, and some creamy wheat malts. To taste, there’s an underlying spice throughout, but it starts

off with a tart, citrusy bite, possibly due to the Bravo and Sterling hops. The passionfruit is evident, though not as heavy as on the nose, and the fuzzy

mouthfeel reminds us of biting into a peach. The Liliko’i is a delicious, fun, and unique diversion that is indicative of the season. 5.6% ABV20 IBUs

HOP NOSH IPA

HOPTIMUM IMPERIAL IPA

UINTA BREWING CO. SALT LAKE CITY, UT

SIERRA NEVADA BREWING CO., CHICO, CA

This awesome IPA from Uinta Brewing is the best beer to enjoy on a rainy

with a gorgeous, thick white head. The aroma is both sweet and hoppy with

to beautiful, green woods during a gentle rain. The aroma is an alluring

Hoptimum, part of Sierra Nevada’s High Altitude Series, reminds us of a

mountain forest just after an afternoon rain. It pours a clear amber topped strong grapefruit and hints of pineapple, as well as pine and floral notes. The flavor starts piny and prickly bitter, then transitions into sweet malts,

grapefruit and smooth melon. This ale is robust and almost chewy! It dries slightly at the finish, but leaves a complex and intoxicating aftertaste of sweet bread, earth and herbs. Though medium in body, Hoptimum is full of flavor and tongue-smacking good. 10.4% ABV, 100 IBUs

124 . TRAVEL WITH PURPOSE

spring day. Not only is it gorgeous to look at with its amber body and

thick, whipped cream head, but the fragrance and flavor transport you combination of bright grapefruit, damp pine needles, sweet malts and a

touch of warming spice. The flavor is wonderfully balanced. Woody, dank herbal notes combine perfectly with fruit and malts. The initial bitterness becomes sweet, then finishes dry with a pleasant fuzzy feeling on the tip of your tongue. Excellent beer at any time, but next time you hear the patter

of raindrops on the roof, crack one open and see where it takes you.7.3%

ABV, 82 IBUs

PETRUS AGED PALE SOUR PALE ALE

TROPIC KING IMPERIAL SAISON

BROUWERIJ DE BRABANDERE BAVIKHOVE, BELGIUM

FUNKWERKS, INC. FORT COLLINS, CO

If you’ve never tried a sour beer before, this is a good one to start with; if you

This Imperial Saison from Funkwerks, Inc. was created when the brewers

more. It appears innocent enough with a pretty white foam that disappears

white, big-bubbled foam. It wafts of yeast, flowers and tropical fruit with

love sours, chances are you’ve already had it and it’s one of your favorites. This bright, puckering ale wakes up your taste buds and has them begging for

quickly over a clear straw liquid. The aroma and taste, however, surprise and charm. There’s an instant puckering, a dash of sherry, and then tart juiciness

that’s followed by an oaky, dry finish. It’s reminiscent of a Brut Champagne,

but so much more fun to sip. If the sun were made of lemon drops and somehow we managed to trap it and age it in an oak barrel until it became a potable liquid, it would taste like this. Crazy, we know, but you’ve got to try it. 7.3% ABV, 3 IBUs

PURPLE HAZE RASPBERRY LAGER

ABITA BREWING CO. ABITA SPRINGS, LA Purple Haze is true to its name, pouring a hazy amber with purple tones. Made with lager and wheat malts, it breathes a lovely raspberry and wheat perfume

with a little freshly baked bread and rosewater. The taste is delicious: briefly crisp, then fruity and malty with a round, creamy mouthfeel and a gentle finish. The raspberry sits lightly on your tongue without being too cloying or sweet. It’s best

while enjoying a sunny, fragrant day, and light enough in body to enjoy more than one. 4.2% ABV, 13 IBUs

SCHNEIDER WEISSE TAP 4 WEISEN EDEL-WEISSE HEFEWEIZEN

WEISSES BRÄUHAUS G. SCHNEIDER & SOHN KELHEIM, GERMANY

If you’ve ever had Schneider Weisse Edel-Weisse then you know exactly what we mean when we say it tastes like a spring meadow. Take a slice of banana bread,

had a happy accident of adding two extra bags of Munich malts to their flagship saison. This scrumptious brew appears a cloudy gold with an offsome light malts. Its taste is incredibly balanced: a bit of a hoppy bite is enveloped in smooth malts, mango and mandarin orange, with the tingle of

spice on the sides of your tongue. The Tropic King finishes round and fuzzy with a ripened fruit and slightly drying aftertaste. Tasty and flavorful, yet

potent at 8% ABV, this intense spring beer is for the serious drinker. 8% ABV, 30 IBUs

ALLAGASH SAISON ALLAGASH BREWING CO. PORTLAND, ME Saisons were traditionally brewed in the springtime for consumption over

the hotter summer months, but with their typically bright, herbal and fruit

characteristics, today they are consumed during spring itself. This saison from Allagash Brewing is an excellent (and drinkable!) representation of this classic Belgian style. The pale gold liquid is topped with ample white foam that effervesces an intoxicating floral perfume. Upon further wafting

(because, quite frankly, we could inhale this all day), there is some bright citrus and spice, as well as notes of pear and rose water. This lovely, fresh and flavorful ale starts with a bitter, citrus moment that is quickly mellowed

by pear and peach fuzziness. Balanced and smooth, the Saison finishes dry and herbal. As the air gets warmer and more restaurant patios start

opening for weekend brunch, we say: down with the mimosa! Bottomless Allagash Saison instead! 6.1% ABV, 25 IBUs

RUNOFF RED IPA

O’DELL BREWING CO. FORT COLLINS, CO

top it with freshly picked wild flowers and clove, and sit down in a fragrant, grassy

This seasonal ale from O’Dell Brewing Co. in Fort Collins is a delicious

out. Even those who aren’t particularly fond of hefeweizens can appreciate the

rivers of Colorado as the snow melts. It pours a clear, deep amber, topped

meadow to eat it, accompanied by a glass of fresh milk. Strange as it may sound, that is exactly how this incredible ale tastes and you really don’t want to miss artistry and history that goes into making this complex brew. It appears a cloudy

amber with a thick creamy foam, tiny bubbles and obvious sediment. The smells and tastes are numerous and changing: sharp floral and citrus hops, clove, wheat,

banana, melon and just enough bitterness. Its medium body starts bright and finishes smooth and creamy. This beer is a spring picnic! 6.2% ABV, 20 IBUs

KILLER GREEN FRESH HOP IPA DOUBLE MOUNTAIN HOOD RIVER, OR

Dear Hop Heads,

The snow has melted. The sun has peeked from behind the clouds. It is time to put

variation on your typical IPA, with some extra body and malts. Runoff is reminiscent of springtime and the cold, fresh water that races down the with a thick ecru foam that lingers and leaves never-ending lacing. Inhaling, the first thought is fresh bread, followed by malt, juicy citrus, and fragrant

pine needles. The flavor is true to the smell and then some. This brew is dryhopped with Columbus and Chinook hops, leaving it full of pine, and juicy

citrus fruit, but it is complemented by lots of sweet, roasty malts. It finishes softer than your average IPA with a mild floral and malt aftertaste. Hop heads will be pleased by this deviation from the norm. 6.5% ABV, 50 IBUs

DOWN TO EARTH SESSION IPA 21ST AMENDMENT BREWERY SAN LEANDRO, CA

away your porters and stouts and jump back into fresh, bright hops again, and this

We won’t lie to you, we don’t get too excited about a session IPA, but there

its dank aroma of wet earth and wood and its whiff of mint and citrus peel, and

that dissipates quickly, carrying grapefruit and spicy herbs to your nose

awesome IPA will definitely start the season off right. Killer Green is easy to look at with its orange, caramel body and impressively thick, lasting foam, enticing with

delicious with a big, bitter kickstart and malts, just enough to balance. This freshly hopped IPA (Brewer’s Gold and Simcoe) finishes dry and herbal. The medium body offers citrus zest, spice, pine resin and herbs of the “killer green” persuasion.

This beer is a chewy palate wrecker, so don’t plan on drinking anything else for the rest of the night. Sincerely,

There’s Always Room for More Hops

7.5% ABV, 97 IBUs

are a few exceptions, like 21st Amendment’s Down to Earth. Down to

Earth is a gorgeous golden-orange ale topped with a bubbling white head

before you’ve even had a chance to lean in. Anticipating, we were delighted

and surprised by the dry and balanced beer that we were met with. This drinkable session IPA is bursting with grapefruit and lemon/lime. It does not disappoint in the bitterness department, but it finishes quickly with just a smidgen of chewy sweet bread and a very light hop linger. This great

brew has enough going on to be tasty and fun without being overpowering,

and its light body and low ABV make it perfect for BBQs and camping trips.

4.4% ABV, 42 IBUs

Eli McAdams gained her appreciation for craft beer and its culture growing up in the microbrew-hearty town of Boulder, Colorado. She now lives in Los Angeles and manages the tap room of Iron Triangle Brewing Company. When she’s not drinking, writing about, or studying beer, she’s enjoying the outdoors, watching a movie or planning future travels.

users across the nation.

“Make a reservation before you even get to Santa Fe. They are that busy.” — Melissa M.

“My mom read an article in Sunset magazine about this little walk up window Mexican restaurant that Julia Child loved.” — Sara H.

“Despite its modest, easily overlooked name, La Taqueria is the only place in NorCal I’ve come across serving Mexican food that would rival SD Mexican food in a blind taste test.” — Edna C.

La Taquería

“My recommendation: get the green goddess shell or the stoner shell, you won’t be sorry.” — Jen V.

Barrio

“This place really rocks! Kim Cheese... you better stand up and take notice because you have some really stiff competition in the Korean taco game.” — Ben S.

Seoul Taco

“We had: Spring Pea Guacamole — I wanted to submerge myself in a bathtub full of this and eat my way out.” — Laurie K.

ABC Cocina

“The tequila bar — where it’s at. It feels like Mexico.” — Liz O.

The Saint

“Get the chipotle sauce. It’s BOMB-ALICIOUS.” — Ryan P.

Bear Flag Fish Co.

— Kat L.

by once you’ve experienced the phenomenon that is BIG STAR.”

“You’ll salivate every time you drive

Big Star

“Top these boys in corn tortilla, cilantro, onion, and squeeze that lime in, top it off with green hot sauce and it’s an orgasm in your mouth.” — BJ S.

Fuel City

new seAttle, newPOrt ChiCAgO, dAllAs, BeACh, il YOrk, nY wA tX CA

The Shed

La Super-Rica Taqueria

ClevelAnd, st. lOuis, sAntA Fe, sAn sAntA FrAnCisCO, Oh BArBArA, nM MO CA CA

Five in a row means B-I-N-G-O!

next road trip, follow our handy bingo board and make a pit stop at these top-rated taco spots according to

Whether you prefer carne asada or pollo, these delicious tortilla-wrapped bites are available all over the U.S. Think you can hit them all? On your

“It was love at first bite! When I chomped down into the shrimp taceaux, I almost passed out! It was amazing. Mainly because of that special sauce added to the taco that makes it very unique. It instantly appeals to the senses with its tangy, sweet flavor as it explodes from your taco.” — Arielle B.

Taceaux Loceaux

New Orleans, LA “I cancelled reservations at Duke’s Beach House for Ono Tacos. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.” — H.C.

Ono Tacos

Lahaina, HI

“Stand in line, say those three magic words, hand over five dollars and it’s game over. Burrito party in your mouth and your burrito standards will be changed forever. If I lived closer, I’d eat this every day and name my firstborn child Al and force him into becoming a pastor.” — Shalom N.

El Chato Taco Truck

Los Angeles, CA

“Wow wow wow!! I cannot say enough good things about this little gem! There are 2 locations but do yourself a favor and head out to the one on Roberts. There is an outdoor seating area that is just perfect! The prices are cheap and the food is phenomenal!!” — Brittany H.

White Duck Taco Shop

“If you like inexpensive food that is legit, this place is for you. The Korexico combo is out of this world — a must try at LEAST twice if you’re swingin through, or live in the ATL.” — Sam P.

Hankook Taqueria

Asheville, Atlanta, NC GA

“I wish I was spending more time in San Antonio so I could go back to this place every night and try everything on the menu.” — Claire M.

Guajillo’s

“The tacos, oh my! Every single one was DELISH! They were seasoned just right, rich and creamy, but not overwhelming, and you can tell which is which, that means they don’t all taste the same despite some similar ingredients. Since neither of us wanted to miss out, we split each taco into half.” — TJ T.

Capitol Tacos

“Warm, sort of crispy tacos with a heavenly mix of Ahi and Ono. Super fresh ingredients, delicious sauce, an absolute treat.” — T.W.

Coconut’s Fish Cafe

“Best tacos. Hands down. Be prepared to wait in line, but it’s 100% worth it! They even got our drink orders while we were waiting! Sure! I’ll have a margarita while I wait!” — Stephanie H.

¿Por qué no?

“The most authentic Mexican food I have had this side of the Mississippi River. Wait, which side of the Mississippi am I on? After 30 years in California it has been hard to find authentic Mexican food. They have it here. The tacos are the real deal and delicious.” — Dan B.

Hass

“Taco Guild is as good as it gets — funky cool reclaimed church vibe, innovative tacos, yummy margaritas and guacamole.” — Greg K.

Taco Guild

Columbus, Phoenix, OH AZ

“Every time I am in Fenway, I am eating here. Sometimes I find an excuse to go to Fenway just so I can eat here srsly (I might have issues). Everything on the menu is amazing, you can’t go wrong.” — Henry H.

“You have ruined all other Mexican food in Nashville! Their avocado taco, chicken tacos & Cuban beef tacos are my favorites. (Use some of their hot sauce on them as well). But seriously, you can’t go wrong with anything.” — Sam D.

Kihei, HI

El Pelón Taquería

Mas Tacos

Land O’ Nashville, Boston, Portland, San OR TN Lakes, FL MA Antonio, TX

“Cheap and delicious. The owner greets you when you walk in with a bright smile and a strong handshake.” — Dave P.

Juan in a Million

Austin, TX