CHANGING TIMES Allergen alert A Turkish feast Chilli challenge www.worldfoodlife.uk1
Grosvenor House London The Great Room 86-90 Park Lane, London W1K 7TL Sunday, 9 October 2022 Send your nominations through WhatsApp now 07956 588 777 or 07956 439 458 Supported by Name Business................................................................................Name................................................................ Experience the most spectecular night in the British Curry Calendar ! Curry Life Awards and Gala dinner is the most important annual event of the Curry Industry. Don’t forget to send a nomination for the Curry Life Awards 2022. For further details visit our website or send email : info@currylife.uk EDITOR’S CHOICE BEST RESTAURANT BEST CURRY CHEF BEST TAKEAWAY www.currylifeawards.com Email..................................................................................Mobile...............................................................................Post...........................................................................................Address..............................................................................Code........................................................................... www.worldfoodlife.uk
Chilli challenge
Chillies have a fascinating history dating back hundreds of years. As well as enhancing certain types of cuisine and giving some dishes a much-needed taste kick, chillies are rich in different vitamins and can be good for your health too. A Turkish feast
12 18 22 26 30 34 www.worldfoodlife.uk1
ontentsC Editor in Chief Syed Nahas Pasha info@worldfoodlife.com Editor Syed Belal Ahmed info@worldfoodlife.com News & Features Editor Kim Benjamin info@worldfoodlife.com Contributors Steve Watkins Lee AmjadShafiurSamuelShamsulSamLixenbergSmithIslamAhmedRahmanSuleman Media Sales Habibur Rahman Advisors Helal M EmdadulAlamHogue Tipu Consultant Advisors Dominic Chapman Rupert Rowley Mo Gherras General Manager Taslima Akhter Photographer Kois Miah Correspondence Address WORLD FOOD LIFE 23 Keswick Gardens, Ilford, Essex IG4 5NF, UK Tel. 020 8550 4179 Mobile: 07956 588 777 E-mail: info@worldfoodlife.com Issue 08/2022 Price - £4.95 (UK where www.worldfoodlife.uksold) The World Food Life is a Quarterly trade magazine for restaurants, such as Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Japanese, Turkish, Middle Eastern and other world cuisines. The World Food Life is part of the Curry Life Media Group and Curry Life Events Limited. Although it is mailed out directly to trade, it can also be obtained by subscription £35 a year (UK) and £50 elsewhere. Postage included. Reproduction of its contents in whole or part without written permission is not permitted. We regard ourselves as an ethical magazine committed to fair, responsible reporting and comment. We cannot be held accountable for editorial or advertising errors, omissions or claims.
The Covid-19 pandemic has had a lasting influence on how businesses and consumers approach food. We look at ongoing trends such as the growth of adaptogens and the calorie count debate and assess how these will affect the hospitality industry in the next few months and beyond Views from the top Four chefs offer their take on the on-trend ingredients, tastes and flavours. Find out more about approaches to foraged food, how to minimise food waste, flavour palates and the rise of South Korean red chilli paste gochujang and how to substitute certain foods without compromising on taste
Food for thought WFL takes an in-depth look at sustainability initiatives within the restaurant industry. Stakeholders are taking a range of approaches, from assessing the carbon footprint of dishes to repurposing food waste, and working with ethical suppliers to streamlining business operations
Chef Esra Muslu’s latest venture Zahter serves cuisineIstanbuliteintheheart of central London. She tells WFL about the inspiration behind the venture, the importance of focusing on seasonal ingredients and why Turkish cuisine is on the rise
With food allergies becoming more common, it’s vital for those in hospitality to have a clear process in place to ensure a safe dining experience. WFL talks to industry professionals to get the lowdown on allergens
Allergen alert
Changing times
Please contact 020 8550 4179 or email to info@worldfoodlife.uk
In this issue, we take a look at some of the latest food trends, including the growing interest in mushrooms and adaptogens - active ingredients
Time for Turkey Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine continues to prove popular in the UK. We’ve profiled Zahter and its Istanbulite cuisine, helmed by chef-owner Esra Muslu, who previously worked at-Soho House and Ottolenghi. The restaurant, which opened in central London last December, has garnered plaudits from many food critics in its first few months, with Jay Rayner praising its baklava.
Dishes include cold mezze such as Enginar Dolmasi - a whole artichoke flower served with spiced rice and roasted almonds, Levrek Marin - citrus marinated sea bass with kumquat and Biber Dolmasi - stuffed pepper, mezzaluna chopped lamb, rice, onion, garlic and smoked yogurt.
We’ve also asked chefs to share some of their views on current trends, which range from cooking with foraged ingredients, to sourcing seasonal produce, to cooking with spices and using sugar alternatives. Gochujang, a red chilli paste from South Korea that is spicy and sweet, adds a fiery kick to dishes, helping to bring out the flavour. We’ve also explored the history of chillis in this issue, highlighting their health properties.
Sustainable solutions
Healthy balance
TOUGH CHALLENGES lie ahead in certain plants (mostly herbs and mushrooms) that are thought to positively impact on how your body deals with stress, anxiety and fatigue. As our feature explores, adaptogens have been used in Ayurvedic and Asian medicine for thousands of years, and can help the mind and body adapt to physical, mental and emotional stressors, improving its response to stress and finding balance.
ditorialE
With the UK recording its hottest day ever in July, with temperatures hitting 40 degrees, it’s a stark reminder of the growing climate crisis and the need for urgent action. The hospitality industry is tackling sustainability in many ways, from looking to source food locally, to eliminating single-use plastic, to offering plant-based alternatives.
Restaurants in London’s Canary Wharf also recently launched an ecodining initiative, dubbed ‘Conscious Cuisine’, offering innovative new dishes made from food that would otherwise have gone to waste. Sustainability is also part of a bigger picture, As our feature shows, it isn’t limited to food production, cutting back on food waste or eco-friendly meals. It begins with a long hard look at the business, and the way restaurants work with their staff and suppliers.
WFL also paid a visit to Troia, which has been trading for many years and which recently had a makeover as part of a rebrand to Southbank Mediterranean Restaurant.
The cost of living crisis is putting the hospitality industry under increased pressure, with restaurant insolvencies having increased by more than 60% in the past year, with 1.406 shutting up shop, according to a report from accountancy firm UHY Hacker Young. These figures paint a bleak picture and one that is unlikely to improve anytime soon, against a backdrop of rising inflation, huge increases in energy and food costs, consumers choosing to spend less and the ongoing war between Russia and the Ukraine. For those restaurants which only just managed to weather the Covid-19 pandemic, it feels like there may be even tougher mountains to climb.
EWSN
A growing number of restaurants are under threat from closure as they continue to grapple with soaring bills and staff shortages.
“It may be a case of ‘out of the frying pan, into the fire’ for many UK restaurant groups,” he says. “They expected, and needed, higher consumer spending as we put Covid further behind us, but this spending is now likely to fall when it is needed most.”
Soaring inflation and staff shortages plague industry www.worldfoodlife.uk
It added that the government must help employers invest in training by reducing the upfront costs on business and providing training- related tax breaks; and that the Shortage Occupation List must be reformed to allow sectors facing urgent demand for skills to get what they need.
Last month, UK inflation rose to 9.4%, its highest rate in 40 years, fuelled by hikes in petrol costs and food prices, deepening the cost of living crisis.
4
Responding to the findings, head of people policy at the British Chambers of Commerce, Jane Gratton, said: “Businesses remain under huge pressure to fill jobs, but record levels of recruitment difficulty are showing no signs of improvement. Solutions are urgently needed, so that firms can keep their doors open throughout these tough times.”
Data from accountancy firm UHY Hacker Young, released in July, shows a huge leap in the number of restaurant insolvencies, with 1,406 restaurants in the UK having closed their doors in the 12 months to May, up 64% on the previous year. Restaurants face a number of challenges, such as soaring inflation, consumers cutting back on spend and labour
Petershortages.Kubik, partner at UHY Hacker Young said that many in the restaurant sector are anxious over further falls in consumer spending as a possible recession gets closer. This is likely to push restaurant groups further away from a return to profitability.
Recruitment gap
The BCC has written to the Government outlining a three-point plan on how it can work with businesses to solve the recruitment crisis. It says that firms must be encouraged to find new ways of unlocking pools of talent – by investing more in training their workforce, adopting more flexible working practises and expanding use of apprenticeships.
Reports of hospitality businesses struggling to recruit have been ongoing over the last year. In July, the British Chambers of Commerce (BCC) said that rapid reform was needed to tackle crippling staff shortages in the industry. Its data shows that the construction sector is facing the most severe recruitment challenges, with 83% reporting difficulties. This is closely followed by production and manufacturing on 79%, logistics on 79% and hospitality on 78%.
Emma Stockman, Foodhub spokesperson, said: “While Brits still enjoy bringing out the picnic blanket and enjoying an outdoor meal with family and friends, it is interesting to note all the different foods that now make it into the picnic basket – it’s a big change from the traditional style picnic we all recognise.”
Sandwiches remain the number one choice for picnic items, but preferences for picnic food are changing.
Chickpeas under threat Takeaways triumph with picnics
EWSN www.worldfoodlife.uk5
A survey from food tech company Foodhub suggests that takeaway foods such as chips, pizza and fried chicken are proving popular when it comes to choosing food for picnics, appearing among the top ten of items that now make up a picnic.
PulseDubai-basedaccordingsupermarkets.bemeaning20aresuppliesGlobalofchickpeasexpectedtodropbypercentthisyear,hummuscouldhardertoaccessinThisistodatafromGlobalConfederation, which represents all segments of the pulse industry value chain from growers, researchers, logistics suppliers, traders and exporters. Weather and the war in Ukraine have hurt supplies of chickpeas, driving up food prices. Farmers in the United States, the fourth largest chickpea exporter – planted nearly five per cent fewer acres of chickpeas this year due to bad weather, the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) reported.
Dishes on its tasting menu include Ike Jime Trout & Gola Peppercorn, Octopus Fried in Wild Rice & Yeasted Béarnaise, Asparagus, Benne & Lovage And Aged Sirloin, Salted Citrus & Lobster. Desserts include Poppyseed & Rum Cake and Cherry Kombucha, Brown Butter & Elderflower. Geranium in Copenhagen, with Chef Kofoed at the helm, was named The World’s Best Restaurant 2022 and The Best Restaurant in Europe 2022. Geranium is joined in the top three by Central in Lima which placed second and Disfruta in Barcelona.
EWSN
a new entrant to the list this year, which placed 49th, is located in St James and was founded by Iré Hassan-Odukale and Chef Jeremy Chan. It says ‘it builds its own spice-based cuisine around British micro-seasonality.’
William Drew, director of content for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, said: “We are delighted to announce the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 and to celebrate Geranium as the new No.1. Rasmus Kofoed, Søren Ledet and their team have created an unforgettable dining experience, taking seasonal cooking to superlative heights and delivering precise, beautiful and elegant food that combines art and flavour alongside a groundbreaking drinks programme.”
London-basedTheCloveClubandIkoyihavebeenincludedinthelistoftheWorld’s50BestRestaurants2022.ThetwoMichelin-starCloveClub,basedinShoreditch’sTownHall,came35thintheprestigiouslist,whichwasrevealedlastmonth.It offers fine dining from chef-patron Isaac McHale, with a focus on seasonal dishes. Its tasting menu includes Chilled Salad of Charcoal Grilled Aubergine, Brown Crab, Ginger and Cinnamon Oil, Raw Orkney Scallop with Hazelnut, Clementine and Truffle and Slow Roast Herdwick Lamb with Courgette, Datterini Tomato and Ikoyi,Mint.
Eight restaurants from South America featured in the list, while seven entrants from Asia also placed among the top 50. Alongside Ikoyi, other new entrants to the list this year included Copehagen’s Alchemist and Jordnær (placing 18th and 38th), The Jane in Antwerp at number 23, Le Clarence in Paris, coming in at number 28 and Italy’s St Hubertus, placing at number 29.
Two UK restaurants named among World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2022 Award-winning Geranium www.worldfoodlife.uk 6
www.worldfoodlife.uk7
The Food Standards Agency (FSA) inaugural annual report, Our Food: An annual review of food standards across the UK, released in June, has identified a fall in the number of inspections of food businesses. It says this is a consequence of the resourcing pressures faced by local authorities. The report, launched with Food Standards Scotland, is an in-depth review of food standards. FSA Chair Professor Susan Jebb, said: “This first joint report reflects on a period during which there has been significant concern about the impact of world events on food standards and safety. Local authority inspections declined during the reporting period. Even though there are signs of improvement, particularly on hygiene inspections, local authorities continue to face resourcing constraints which could affect progress.”
theConsumersareembracingalternativeproteinsandthisproteintransformationisoneofbesttoolsavailableto combat the climate crisis. This is according to a recent report from Boston Consulting Group, which says its current forecast models indicate that alternative proteins will represent 11% of all protein consumption by 2035. The report says: “Animal agriculture, the largest global greenhouse gas emitter within the food system, is responsible for 15% of global emissions, roughly matching the emissions from the transportation sector. If we remain on track for an 11% share for alternative proteins by 2035, we will see a reduction worldwide by 2030 [that is] … equal to decarbonizing 95% of the aviation industry. Our survey shows that consumers understand this: more than 30% of consumers consider having a major positive impact on climate to be a primary reason to switch to alternative proteins.”
EWSN DESIGN AND PRINTING Design | Print | Publication Micro Business Park, 46F Greatorex Street, London E1 5NP 020 7375 2346 | 07985 214 147 print.faith@gmail.com | www.faithprinters.co.ukinfo@faithprinters.co.uk menuwindow letterhead takeaway menu business cardsinstant banners leafletsbrochuresnewslettersflyersId card certificates t-shirt wedding cards labels invitation cards postersbook binding bill books booklets folders cottonbagmugs canvas prints calendars notepads designwebdigitalstationeriesprintingrollups signs stamps stickers compliment slip Ongoing concerns over food business inspections Plant-based meat: untapped climate opportunity
Maguro Group
8
Jae Cho, director at Maguro Group, which operates five sites across London, added: “Pochawa Grill is something we have been extremely excited about for a while now, and we are delighted to be announcing the next step in Maguro Group’s culinary journey. Chinatown London is one of the world’s most dynamic and exciting dining scenes, and a must have location for East Asian concepts, so it feels only natural to launch our first K-culture inspired restaurant here.”
The food menu will include Tofu Kimchi and a ramen-tteokbokki hybrid called Rabokki, alongside relaxed meals for sharing, such as a spicy squid and OsamBulgogi, a pork stir-fry. Exclusively importing the Korean spirit, Soju, the Chinatown London restaurant’s drinks menu will feature traditional East Asian beverages and a casual cocktail menu. Designed to be a K-culture playground, Pochawa Grill’s interior will celebrate traditional Korean pubs and offer 50 Juliacovers.Wilkinson, restaurant director at Shaftesbury, said: “Chinatown London continues to attract debut concepts, from proven operators in the UK and across the east and southeast Asia region. Maguro Group’s Pochawa Grill will be a great addition to the bustling Wardour Street, further reflecting the trends and traditions our community love, and have come to expect from Chinatown London.”
‘Pocha’ comes to Chinatown www.worldfoodlife.uk
Alongside Pochawa Grill, Chinatown London’s new openings include Hong Kong café and restaurant The Eight, Korean supermarket and eatery Seoul Plaza, hand-pulled noodle concept Kung Fu Noodle and Sichuan soup restaurant Zhang Liang Malatang.
EWSN
is launching its debut casual Korean BBQ concept, Pochawa Grill in London’s Chinatown. Inspired by Pocha - a shortened version of the word ‘Pojangmacha’, which refers to a Korean street food stall or restaurant on wheels, Pochawa Grill will open at 29 Wardour Street later this year. The 1,670 sq ft eatery will champion Korean culture in food, drink and music, offering street food dishes.
EWSN
There are no plans to fine restaurants for food waste. Environmental groups have called on DEFRA (Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs) to find ways to fight the climate crisis by limiting waste, with one option being to fine restaurants (and supermarkets) for food waste, as is the case in Spain. In June, the Spanish government approved a bill to cut food waste which could see all companies involved in the production and supply chain fined up to €60,000 for failing to show they had reduced waste. DEFRA said the UK will not be following suit. In an article in The Evening Standard, DEFRA said there are “no plans” for this kind of action, adding that the country is already a “global leader” in tackling food waste.
www.worldfoodlife.uk9
Television presenter Jeremy Clarkson has opened a restaurant on his farm near Chipping Norton in Oxfordshire, despite plans being rejected by councillors. A report in The Sun says he has found a loophole to planning havingDiddlyrestaurant,restrictionspermissionforhiscalledSquat,openeditin a different barn on his land. Clarkson posted the following message on social media: “I’m thrilled to announce that you now have a chance to try the amazing food we grow and rear on my farm at the brand new (but quite rustic) Diddly Squat Restaurant. You can’t just turn up I’m afraid, but you can make a booking.”
Jeremy Clarkson opens restaurant No fines for food waste
Business Minister Jane Hunt said: “At a time when people are feeling the squeeze with rising costs, it is simply not right that employers are withholding tips from their hard-working employees. Whether you are pulling pints or greeting guests, today’s reforms will ensure that staff receive a fair day’s pay for a fair day’s work – and it means customers can be confident their money is going to those who deserve Throughit.”the Bill, a new statutory Code of Practice will be developed to provide businesses and staff with advice on how tips should be distributed. On top of this, workers will receive a new right to request more information relating to an employer’s tipping record, enabling them to bring forward a credible claim to an employment tribunal.
Restaurants turn to ‘heatwave’ menus to cope with extreme weather www.worldfoodlife.uk
Despite most hospitality workers, many of whom are earning the National Minimum Wage, relying on tips to top up their pay, the government says there are still too many businesses that fail to pass on service charges from customers to their staff.
The Employment (Allocation of Tips) Bill, introduced by Dean Russell MP and backed by the government, will ensure that all tips go to staff by making it unlawful for businesses to hold back service charges from their employees.
Cold dishes such as salads, sandwiches and chilled soups could become more of a fixture in restaurants, in response to future potential
EWSN
Inheatwaves.July,theUK experienced its hottest day on record ever, with andexceedingtemperaturesthe40Cmark,somerestaurants offered menus featuring cold dishes only or closed altogether. An article in The Guardian in July said: “Restaurants and gastro pubs are planning to offer more “heatwave menus” in the future amid concerns that soaring temperatures will make it impractical and potentially unsafe for chefs to cook hot food in Isummer.”tdetailshow restaurants and pubs such as The Drapers Arms in Islington and the Virgins and Castle pub in Kenilworth, Warwickshire, replaced hot dishes with a selection of cold fare. The article adds that restaurant owners have said they would do the same in the event of future heatwaves, and that it is not practical for chefs and kitchen staff to cook hot food when temperatures are soaring.
10
New legislation, backed by the government in July, will ban employers from withholding tips from their staff.
This overhaul of tipping practices is set to benefit more than two million UK workers across the hospitality, leisure and services sectors who tend to rely on tips the most, and the government says it will help to ease pressures caused by global inflation and an increase to the cost of living.
‘Tipping Bill’ to come into force
Restaurants, cafés and pubs can continue to serve customers al fresco, following an announcement last month from the Department of Levelling Up, Housing and Communities.
Secretary of State for Levelling Up, Housing and Communities Greg Clark said: “We want to see bustling town centres across the country and that’s why the changes we made to licensing rules will become permanent.
Kate Nicholls
Temporary changes brought in during Covid-19 which make it quicker, easier and cheaper for businesses to get a licence to serve food and drink on pavements and pedestrianised roads have been extended. The extension will continue until the changes are made permanent in the spring.
11
EWSNAl fresco dining boost for businesses
She added that pavement licences also highlighted the hospitality industry’s ingenuity and creativity during Covid, as many venues invested heavily to develop fun, innovative outdoor spaces.
Industry body UK Hospitality welcomed the decision. Its CEO Kate Nicholls said: “Any help that the struggling hospitality sector gets right now is gratefully received, and making pavement licences permanent is hugely positive, offering potentially business-saving opportunities to hundreds of pubs, bars, restaurants and cafés. Vital in enabling businesses to trade during the pandemic when they might otherwise have been forced to close or restrict their opening hours, these licences can now benefit town and city centres by helping local economies recover faster, contributing to levelling up.”
The change was first introduced to help businesses keep operating during the pandemic. Temporary provisions were due to expire in September and will now be extended, before being made permanent as part of the Levelling Up and Regeneration Bill.
Making al fresco dining a permanent fixture on our high streets is part of our plan to level up communities and create vibrant places where people want to live and work.”
Greg Clark www.worldfoodlife.uk
Feature Conscious cuisine How approachtakingconsumersstakeholdersrestaurants,andareasustainabletofood www.worldfoodlife.uk 12
For chef Mark Poynton, who runs restaurant MJP @ The Shepherds at Fen Ditton, near Cambridge, his approach to sustainability isn’t limited to food production, cutting back on food waste or eco-friendly meals. It begins with a long hard look at the business, and he urges restaurants to put themselves in the position of their staff and suppliers.
The concept of restaurants revealing the carbon footprint of dishes is also up for debate, following the findings of a research study. Conducted by scientists at Germany’s University of Würzberg, the findings into what the researchers term ‘eco-nudging’ show that diners appear to be more likely to choose eco-friendly options or meat, when the carbon footprint of each dish is printed on the menu. In the study, the researchers also said that the design of restaurant menus has a considerable effect on the carbon footprint of dining. As part of the study, two versions of each of nine hypothetical restaurant menus featuring a range of cuisines were created.
MORE FOOD, LESS WASTE
“No one wants to work stupid hours, we have to be able to give staff time off, with no staff working more than 48 hours in a week, especially if they are not being paid well for it, he says. “We all know it is hard to recruit staff so if we look after our staff they will stay and become loyal, lowering staff turnover which is contributing to being sustainable,” he says.
CONSIDER OTHER PERSPECTIVES
Poynton adds that for restaurant owners, it’s important for staff to be trained and consistent in what they do as this will help increase profitability.
eatureF
In July, restaurants in London’s Canary Wharf launched an eco-dining initiative, dubbed ‘Conscious Cuisine’, offering innovative new dishes made from food that would otherwise have gone to waste. Hawksmoor, Humble Grape, Gaucho, Caravan and Pergola on the Wharf introduced the new dishes and drinks to their menu for a month, each with sustainability at its heart. The initiative aimed to drive awareness around food waste and Somesustainability.ofthe dishes included Root Vegetable Bhaji with Herb Sauce Pork Croquette and Tomato Aioli, Cauliflower and Shiitake Potstickers, Potted Beef and Crate to Plate Salad.
Mark Poynton
Hardly a month goes by without a mention of eco-friendly cuisine and sustainable food production. In June, the UK signed up to join the Sustainable Productivity Growth Coalition (SPG) with the aim of sharing knowledge of best practice on green agriculture and food production.
13
The SPG Coalition was launched in 2021 at the United Nations’ Food Systems Summit and members include the USA, European Union, Australia, Brazil, Canada, New Zealand and the UN Food and Agriculture Organization. It is also supported by academic institutions and trade bodies representing industries including grain, dairy and livestock from all over the Membersworld. of the Coalition share with each other information about best practice, lessons learned and innovative evidence-based ways to boost productivity in a sustainable way, and promote them at public events and on public platforms.
Canary Wharf Conscious Cuisine www.worldfoodlife.uk
She adds that on a population level, greater understanding of global warming, our environmental crisis and the links to our food system appear to be a key factor driving food choices.
“One example is greater awareness of over-fishing and poor fishing practices, which has led to the marine vertebrate population having fallen by a third and the marine ecosystem being damaged,” she says. “People are becoming more aware of how our food system is responsible for habitat loss, soil degradation, water usage and waste, all of which damage our Incidentally,environment.”she adds, diet modelling studies have shown that diets with significant reductions in meat and moderation in dairy, provide the most favourable outcome for both environmental and health benefits. This means being kind to the environment can go hand in hand with choosing the healthy option and it is now seen as unusual for restaurants not to cater for people choosing for vegan and vegetarian lifestyles, or wanting less meat.
14
Kiri Pointon-Bell
“One of the biggest rises in popularity that we have seen for a long time is for vegan or plant- based dishes,” says Pointon-Bell. “It was only a few years ago that very few vegan options were available, with restaurant guests having to ask for standard options to be made without the animal derived parts. Often this led to an unbalanced and rather bland meal. However, year on year we are still seeing an explosion of the inclusion of meat substitutes and also plant proteins such as lentils, pulses, soy and tofu as the base of restaurant meals.”
eatureF
“For my business, it’s better to have one team that works all these hours, possibly topped up with part-time staff,” he says. “I looked at the maximum number of services I could offer with a team that would work these hours or less, while still breaking even. I open the restaurant three-and-a-half days a week, with four lunch services and three dinner ones. While this might sound mad to some, it reduces my staff costs and turnover and cuts down on my utility bills and my purchases. The only thing it doesn’t reduce is rent and rates, but with a team that is trained and fresh and willing to work for my business every day, the upsell is much higher.”
PEOPLE POWER Dietician Kiri Pointon-Bell, who is also a spokesperson for trade union The British Dietetic Association, says that consumer desire for greener and more sustainable choices to be available is driving change in the restaurant
“Weindustry.areseeing a decline in the use of single use plastics and more ecofriendly options, particularly containers and drinking vessels for take away food and drinks,” she says. “In addition, there is more demand for highquality seasonal produce that is sourced locally and also smaller portions to avoid food waste.”
www.worldfoodlife.uk
With reduced opening times, Poyton adds that it is harder for guests to get a table; consequently, demand is high and the restaurant is full 90% of the Withtime.
regards to supply chains, Poyton believes restaurants need to be pragmatic about how they utilise their suppliers to ensure they will be around for the foreseeable future. “Ask them what they have at the present time and find out how you, as a restaurant, can help them. This could perhaps mean ordering earlier in the day so they have time to get things ready or changing your menus around what they have, rather than dictating what you need. All these elements help create a sustainable business.”
Bennett adds that there are lots of benefits to be gained by working with a supplier like Mill Piece Gardens, not just in terms of the culinary aspects but also with regards to the way the food is “Theproduced.‘no-dig’system is counter to the tendency to dig soil every season,” explains Bennett. “The soil is best left to its natural devices, or the insects, bacteria and worm action. Bacterial action will give a far more fertile soil texture - what has also come to light is that when you turn over soil, as is common on farms, it releases carbon that’s captured in the soil, which is not very good for the environment. No-dig is like going back to ancient principles. It means our food is seasonal and we are getting it directly from where it is grown.”
The menu featured crudites & snacks, a salad of leaves, herbs and flowers, Passandra cucumber, served with cured chalk stream trout, buttermilk, horseradish and herb oil and Heritage tomatoes, basils and Cornish crab. There was also Keravel onion tartlet, slow cooked pork cheek, pickled leek buds, grilled Cornish lamb served with courgettes, French beans, charlotte potatoes and salsa verde and to end, blackcurrant pavlova, lemon verbena & Kenilworth honey ice cream.
“Therepredators.isquite a lot of produce grown at Mill Piece Gardens that we use, sometimes it will be a specific variety that we like,” says Bennett. “And often we’ll be using things that are not readily available on the market unless you’re growing them yourself. For example, we’ve used some leek buds and pickled these to produce something a bit more novel and interesting.”
eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk15
WORK WITH NATURE
In August, The Cross hosted a dinner in partnership with Mill Piece Gardens, showcasing the very best of the farm’s local produce, grown in the most ethical way possible alongside top quality ingredients, sourced by Bennett from the UK’s coasts and pastures.
Mill Piece Gardens’ philosophy is built on ‘working with nature’. While it uses polytunnels to lengthen the growing season for certain produce, it also tries to keep its carbon footprint as low as possible, including using the no-dig method which prevents carbon loss from the soil. Its ecological growing methods mean no pesticides, no herbicides and no artificial fertilisers, with the aim of working in harmony with wildlife, creating a balanced environment so that pests are controlled by natural
Adam Bennett is chef director at the Michelin-starred The Cross at Kenilworth, which features British cuisine with a menu inspired and guided by the seasons. He says being a sustainable restaurant can be a real challenge, particularly in light of the current price hikes, which is making every part of the supply chain more expensive. He works with supplier Mill Piece Gardens, founded in 2017 by Luciole Brosse, which focuses on seasonality and ecological growing practices and which supplies a number of local pubs and restaurants.
Adam Bennett
Hospitality benchmarking report reveals impact of Covid on industry EWSN
UKHospitality’s latest benchmarking report on the industry has revealed the significant impact of the pandemic on hospitality operators, as the sector emerged from one of the most challenging periods in its history.
The survey period covered the six months to December 2021, which is representative of a turbulent time for the sector and half the usual period for analysis. As a result, the responses this year reflect the continuing evolution of both the UK consumer and investor Stephenlandscapes.Owens, managing director – Pubs & Restaurants at Christie & Co said: “Despite the significant challenges that lie ahead in 2022, new opportunities and ways of operating have emerged over the last few years, and with consumer demand returning, there is still reason to remain cautiously optimistic. With full year trading returning for next year’s survey, we look forward to updating the sector with an increasingly accurate benchmark against which operators can compare performance.”
Kate Nicholls, chief executive of UKHospitality, said: “This year’s survey highlights the extreme pressure that hospitality operators are labouring under, with costs soaring to a new record high. We have been working with the government to make clear the harm this is causing to our ambitions for growth, investing in high streets and creating skilled roles. It’s imperative that the government takes action to help us tackle the inflationary headwinds we face, unlock growth by removing regulatory barriers and creating a tax and investment framework for the future.”
Main findings show operating costs have increased to challenging levels at 55.2% of turnover before rent – the highest since 2007. The report says this has been driven by the soaring utility, premise and operational costs facing operators in the industry, as they attempt to rebuild following the pandemic.
The sector has faced relentless economic and operational challenges forcing operators to adapt and look to alternative revenue streams to drive business. Whilst the report notes a contraction in likefor-like sales of 2.3% in comparison to 2019 H2 across the entire survey, certain segments of the market saw top line growth, with accommodation-led businesses leading the way at 9.8% like-forlike growth in revenue, as these businesses took advantage of the staycation boom.
Produced by industry body UKHospitality and specialist business property adviser, Christie & Co, the 13th edition of the UKHospitality Christie & Co Benchmarking Report, released at the end of July, is based on a survey of around 5,000 hospitality businesses. This year for the first time, it includes a separate hotels segment.
www.worldfoodlife.uk 16
Integrated Online Ordering System with Unisoftpos More efficient More sales Full control Build own brand & Customer loyalty FREE Get your own integrated In-house ORDERINGONLINESYSTEM Providing Unisoftpos system for restaurants, takeaways and cafes since 1998. UniSoft Solutions Ltd. Level One, 46 Hanbury St, London E1 5JL Tel: 020 7377 2627, www.unisoftsolutions.co.ukEmail:info@unisoftsolutions.co.ukk www.worldfoodlife.uk17
THE CHANGING
Rob Hobson, a nutritionist working with British Apples and Pears, an organisation of apple and pear growers, says the pandemic’s impact still underlies some of the trends in “Environmental2022.
FACE OF FOOD
The influence on food and diet trends.
andhadend,towardsbeCovid-19phasepandemicofmaycominganbutithasadeeplasting
Sourcing food locally, cutting down on meat, and experimenting more with flavours were just some of the food trends that emerged at the height of the pandemic across 2020-2021. To what extent have these trends changed this year as the world recovers from the pandemic phase?
eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 18
concerns too are still very much in the psyche of many people when deciding what to eat, which involves seasonal eating and a plant-based approach to their diet,” he says.
Plant-based eating has been a trend for many years, with veganism the talk of the town, but Hobson believes a ‘flexitarian’ approach – where you adopt a vegetarian diet but occasionally eat meat or fish, is proving more popular this year.
Flexibility in mind
“This is a much easier and realistic way for people to adopt a more plant-based approach to how they eat and still fits into the wider issues of nutrition, including the environment,” he says. “Gut health continues to be a trend and this is no surprise, given the everevolving research that is unveiling the many ways our gut microbiota influences our health beyond just Theredigestion.”isalso evidence to suggest that some nutrients such as fibre or soy may reduce risk of certain cancers such as bowel cancer and breast cancer respectively.
Sustain your energy Peer says there are good synergies between caffeine and adaptogens and that many of London Nootropics’ customers who are usually sensitive to caffeine find they enjoy its blends, especially “AdaptogensZen. help balance physical and mental stressors in our mind and body,” he says. “Caffeine can help increase our alertness and attention by blocking our adenosine receptors, which make us drowsy; it can also increase our Rob Hobson www.worldfoodlife.uk
19
With people continuing to work from home, and with many opting to spend just one or two days in an office, Hobson says this has also influenced the way people eat.
eatureF
Hobson believes that fortified food products also seem to have become more of a thing, with these foods containing added nutrients that can help to improve nutrient intake, while adaptogens too are proving popular, reflecting the growing interest in mushrooms. Adaptogens are active ingredients in certain plants (mostly herbs and mushrooms) that are thought to positively impact on how your body deals with stress, anxiety and fatigue.
“Interestingly, it seems that breakfast has become more of a thing as people pay more attention to this meal of the day as they have the added time to do so,” he says.
In line with this trend, pop-up ShroomTown opened in London at the end of July, a collaboration between London Nootropics and Oh My Shrooms, a supplier of medicinal snacks, offering adaptogenic coffee blends and adaptogenic treats. The concept aimed to raise awareness of medicinal mushrooms and other adaptogens, enabling more people to benefit from their balancing properties in their daily lives.
The space featured an immersive natural experience with art exhibits, where guests were able to choose from different adaptogenic coffee blends from London Nootropics, such as ‘Flow’ for clarity, ‘Mojo’ for energy, and ‘Zen’ for peace, and indulge in chocolate treats from Oh My Shrooms, including Tahini Caramel Bars, Sunhini Brain Truffles and Adaptogenic Moons.
Emotional balance
“Used in Ayurvedic and Asian medicine for thousands of years, adaptogens help the mind and body adapt to physical, mental and emotional stressors, improving its response to stress and finding balance,” says Zain Peer, cofounder of London Nootropics. “Many adaptogens have nootropic properties – nootropics are ‘brain boosters’, they enhance cognitive performance and improve brain health, producing benefits across memory, focus, motivation and encouraging physical, mental and emotional balance.”
eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 20
cortisol levels - our stress hormone, which can result in jitters/anxiety.”
Calorie count
Since April this year, restaurants, cafes and takeaways in England with over 250 employees have been required to add calorie labels to their menus but dietitian Kiri Pointon-Bell says this won’t necessarily encourage people to reassess their approach to food.
He adds that adaptogens can help balance cortisol levels, ensuring you get the benefits from coffee whilst minimising any side-effects. Caffeine is also absorbed quickly, which may result in a crash and adaptogens can help give sustained energy levels without a crash.
Adaptogen extracts can be used in other products too, such as snacks, to help easily incorporate adaptogens into people’s daily diets.
“There are many reasons why we choose to eat what we do, when we do,” she says. “Calorie counting is something that some people may prioritise, for example people who are trying to adopt different eating habits in order to create calorie deficits to lose weight. Yet there are lots of limitations with calorie labelling and also other ways to consider the healthiness of a food.”
Pointon-Bell highlights that the calorie content that is on a food label is the amount of energy obtained from that food when burnt in a laboratory and this is not the same as the amount of energy our bodies obtain from it when digested.
“Incorporating adaptogens into treats means indulging and supporting the mind-body-soul at the same time,” says Ayelen Martinez, founder at Oh My Shrooms. “The adaptogens used within them, such as Lion’s Mane, Reishi and Cordyceps, have been known to support mental health, sleep and anxiety and energy.”
eatureF
Whilst it can help consumers to make a more informed choice, particularly for weight loss, when it comes to nutrition there is so much more information that could be made available to help consumers choose healthy and sustainable options.”
“Foods like nuts and seeds contain excellent amounts of fibre, protein and healthy fats and are a brilliant addition to a healthy diet yet as they are high in calories people who are calorie counting might avoid menu items containing these and then miss out on the health benefits,” she says. “It is also recognised that calorie labelling is likely to have a negative impact on those who are experiencing disordered eating or eating disorders. There is a school of thought that calorie labelling is a simplistic anti-obesity strategy that focuses on “reducing weight” rather than “promoting health”.
“I have always been a firm believer in farm-to-plate cooking,” he says.
“Using ingredients in this way allows me to bring a quirkiness to my food that is brought to life with the freshness you can only get from locally-sourced produce.
Regional Indian cuisine is becoming really popular and I can only see this trend growing.”
“‘Trout’ showed what I am all about, combining the ‘mi cuit’ technique with tandoori flavoursFrench culinary skills using Indian flavours,” he says. “This dish is one to watch and my firm favourite.”
Also on the menu was ‘Charcoal Sponge’, a firm Gujarati favourite, with Dugal having added charcoal combined with coconut snow and ‘espuma’ (a type of froth). For the ‘Beetroot’ on the menu, Dugal took his inspiration from India’s West Bengal region. The dish featured savoury beetroot meringue and beetroot ketchup using beetroot from the Kitchen Garden.
Arbinder Singh Dugal is a former MasterChef: The Professionals semi-finalist and Roux Scholarship finalist. In July he hosted a pop-up at Shropshire mansion Hawkstone Hall.
Dugal’s pop-up showcased what he terms ‘progressive’ Indian cuisine, with a menu combining regional Indian food created with modern techniques. “‘Murgh Ki Chaat’ is a dish inspired by New Delhi - chaat can be described as street food in India, which I combined with the crispiness of chicken skin with chicken tikka and mint. The tomatoes and mint in this dish came from the Kitchen Garden at Hawkstone Hall.”
In the
Chefs offer their insights on the on-trend ingredients, tastes and flavours and what they’re cooking now
Arbinder Singh Dugal
The pop-up menu also featured ‘Celeriac’, a Keralan-inspired dish with a special spice mix, pickled apple and Sāmbhar, a lentil dish from this region, as well as
Foraged ingredients eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 22
“The benefits of using seasonal food is driven by freshness and flavour,” says Archer. “All food is in season at sometime, somewhere but local Britishgrown produce is fresher because it hasn’t travelled as far or been packed with nitrogen to preserve it, which means the flavour is far Archersuperior.”adds that having a small set tasting menu allows him to react quickly to what’s available in season.
eatureF
23
‘Crossover’, a refreshing, green sorbet made in a Pacojet and served with yoghurt meringue, roasted cumin seed powder, Kashmiri red chilli and black salt. Other dishes included ‘Lamb’, a Rajasthani classic laal maas (meat curry), with sous vide rump of lamb served with chickpea flour fritters, using allium grown at Hawkstone Hall, and ‘Paneer’ served pithivierstyle, using puff pastry combined with Indian cottage cheese. For dessert the pop-up served ‘Chenna Poda’, a classic Indian cheesecake made from fresh cottage cheese, miso mousse and turmeric ice-cream.
ChrisArcher picThe kitchen team at Pentonbridge Inn Paige Hill, Demi Chef de Partie; Chris Archer, Head Chef; Sam Holroyd, Chef de Partie; Arran Seymour, Sous Chef www.worldfoodlife.uk
Chris Archer
“We work on a format of a fish/ shellfish starter, a pasta course, a fish/shellfish main course and then a meat course,” he says. “We use this framework to change garnishes seasonally when they are at their finest. I’m interested in cooking delicious and exciting food. We are big on trying to use offal and different cuts of an animal together to cut down on wastage and to highlight the importance of utilising as much of a product as possible. Think pigs ears, lambs tongues and Archer’ssweetbreads.”newdinner menu features dishes such as Scottish Mackerel with Pickled Rhubarb, Tomato, and Lovage, Egg Yolk Ravioli with Brown Butter, Truffle, Hazelnut, Hand Dived Scallop with Vadouvan (a blend of spices), Broad Beans, Lime and Cumbrian Herdwick with Garden Turnip, Artichoke, Wild Garlic.
Chris Archer is head chef at Cumbrian fine-dining restaurant Pentonbridge Inn, near Carlisle, which recently relaunched its menu as part of its ethos of sourcing the best seasonal ingredients for its dishes. The eight-course tasting menu for dinner and a five-course lunch menu showcase fresh produce, with up to 75 percent of fruit, herbs and vegetables used by the restaurant grown in the gardens of its sister business, Netherby Hall.
Seasonal produce and less waste
“I love noodles and I’d like to add more vibrant, colourful vegan noodles available for home delivery. www.worldfoodlife.uk
A former Masterchef: The Professionals finalist, Philli Armitage-Mattin is also a food scientist, and has gained a master’s degree in chemistry as well as trained under Gordon Ramsay. She has recently completed a book, Taste Kitchen: Asia, highlighting Asian flavours. The book splits the palate into six personalities and shows how flavours interact with one another to create a complete, balanced dish suited to different tastes. Recipes include Miso and Gochu Marinated Cod, spicy Tteok-bokki and comforting Cuddly Dan Dan Noods.
eatureF
Philli
is a big advocate of spices and spicy food and has travelled across Asia to unearth regional recipes, visiting world-renowned restaurant Den in Tokyo and Haku in Hong Kong. She says spices continue to be a big food trend, especially gochujang (a red chilli paste that hails from South Korea), and she also believes that food from Spain, Sri Lanka and Lebanon is also proving increasingly popular.
Armitage-Mattin Go for gochujang
Armitage-Mattin is also a huge fan of noodles and is soon to launch her own brand of vegan noodles.
“It’s all about understanding your flavour palate, I am a food scientist so I have looked into understanding what different people’s palates are like. I feel that everyone should be cooking to their individual palate. The book is split into six different chapters, encouraging home cooks to do more with Asian ingredients, with accessible Armitage-Mattinrecipes.”
24
eatureF
Thomas Leatherbarrow
Thomas Leatherbarrow is CEO and culinary director of TLC Gourmet and has worked globally as an international hospitality and food consultant. He has a passion for desserts and chocolate and says there is an ongoing trend for more ‘healthy’ desserts, an emphasis on eating more healthily overall and a big drive for “Wesustainability.areseeing a lot of sugar replacements going into desserts and sugar alternatives that are normally used for those on diabietic diets or those wanting to cut out sugar,” he says. “I am also using other substitutes, for example feta cheese as a replacement for cream cheese. Not many people would think this is possible, so it’s about letting them know that many foods can be substituted with others, without compromising on the taste and texture. You can use vegetables too in desserts, options include banana juice, beetroot and even Leatherbarrowpotatoes.”
“A lot of it comes down to having the peopleconversationsrightwith-aschefs,we need to be more open and adaptable in terms of people’ choices and their preferences,” he Leatherbarrowsaid. is also keen on sustainabilitycanforacurrentlysustainabilitypromotingandisdevelopingculinaryplatformchefswheretheylearnaboutacross the supply chain.
25
“The plan is to have this platform running globally, one in Europe, North America and the Middle East, to talk about sustainability and its benefits,” he says. “We will have information on how to grow your own produce, climate change, the benefits of choosing and using seasonal ingredients, all aimed at trained chefs and those coming into the industry”.
believes that more can be done to educate people on food replacements and healthy eating and what the benefits are and says it’s important to raise awareness among the chef community too.
Be sustainable
Thomas Leathebarrow Desserts www.worldfoodlife.uk
The book also describes how cayenne pepper is nowadays simply ground dried hot chillies, though in the seventeenth century, it meant a specific type of chilli from what is now French
“It’sGuiana.genuinely distinctly hotter than standard supermarket chilli powder,” says Renton. “Paprika is made from bell peppers from the same family as chilli. The hotter it is, the more seeds have been used. It was used in Hungary as early as 1569 and paprika remains a defining feature of Hungarian cuisine.” is on chillies, covering history, cuisine
and health eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 26
The Some fascinating facts and figures about
The humble chilli has a reputation for enhancing your health in several ways, according to various surveys. It can help you run faster; as well as lowering the risk of developing cardio-vascular disease. In 13 Foods that Shape the World, author Alex Renton describes how chilli spread across the world in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, and was the go-to substitute for pepper.
“There’s speculation about how the fruit got to Central Europe - it’s thought that Muslim traders brought it to Budapest from the East,” Renton writes in the book. “It was an extraordinary and speedy journey. Chilli travelled from Central America with Columbus back to Spain. Then it voyaged to India with the Portuguese traders and then back to Central Europe, all in less than 70 years. It is a testament if anything to just how valued the fruit is.”
According to Renton’s book, the British took a long time to get used to chilli and in the US, the fruit is still usually called the ‘chilli pepper’, to distinguish it from the bell pepper used in salads. Apart from specially grown hybrids. the world’s hottest chilies are the crumpled-looking fruits called Scotch bonnets, which come originally from Jamaica and elsewhere in the Caribbean.
Chilli choice Food writer and cookery teacher Torie True is the author of Chilli and Mint: Indian Home Cooking from A British Kitchen, which features many dishes incorporating chilli and spice including some unusual ones, with desserts such as Chilli and Mint Choc Chip Ice Cream, Strawberry and Black Pepper Kulfi, Tropical
Pavlova with Cardamom Cream and Chocolate, and Chilli and Cinnamon
The book also references how there is a lot of competition to produce the hottest chilli of all. “A measurement system known as Scoville Heat Units (SHU) was developed to put a rating to contenders,” the book outlines.
True says she tends to slice the chilli in two, on the whofordishseeismanner,chilliusingheat.forandmembraneinleavingangle,theseedsextraBytheinthisiteasytointheandthosedon’t
Chilli has high amounts of vitamin C and antioxidants.
Jeremy Pang
eatureF
“Wilbur Scoville, a US scientist, devised his quasi-scientific testing regime using trained tasters in 1912. It takes a specific weight of chilli material, dissolves it in alcohol and then works out how much sugared water is needed to dilute the liquid to the point that no piquancy can be detected. The higher SHU, the hotter the chilli.”
Keralan Cabbage Thoran Opium Chicken
27
It’s also believed that their ability to create heat within the body helps with weight loss, as well as lowering the risk of type 2 diabetes.
“ChilliesFondants.are so versatile that most days I will incorporate chillies in my cooking,” she says. “If I am cooking Indian food I often use fresh (or frozen - cook them straight from frozen) green chillies which are slightly larger than the birds-eye variety, that offer a little heat, but which are not too overpowering for the overall dish.”
www.worldfoodlife.uk
Thoran incorporates both dried red chillies and fresh green chillies, transforming the humble white round cabbage.
Another chilli paste that can often be found in my fridge is the Yemeni hot sauce known as ‘zhoug’, which includes fresh green chillies along with spices.”
wish to eat it they can leave it to one “Iside.also use Kashmiri chilli powder, which gives curries a deep red colour but only a little heat - it is the perfect chilli powder for curries,” adds True. “If cooking Mexican food, I often gravitate towards dried chipotle chillies, which give a very deep smokiness to a dish. I also like to make Levantine wraps with perhaps halloumi or chicken (or chicken liver). I like to add a dollop of harissa in each wrap, which is a North African/Middle Eastern chilli paste that is smokey and spicy.
It’s a view shared by celebrity chef Jeremy Pang. He says “Chilli has high amounts of vitamin C and antioxidants. It’s also believed that their ability to create heat within the body helps with weight loss, as well as lowering the risk of type 2 Pangdiabetes.”recently launched Jeremy Pang’s Asian Kitchen - a new ITV series that aims to inspire the nation to cook easy Chinese and Asian style dishes at home, sponsored by Chinese sauce brand Lee Kuam Kee. Recipes include Crispy Chilli Beef, Veggie Singapore Noodles, Steamed Salmon with Chilli Bean, Garlic and Ginger Oil and Duck Spring Rolls.
“My new show was created to really inspire the nation to cook easy Chinese and Asian-style dishes at home,” says Pang. “When it comes to chilli, this is a theme that’s carried out throughout many of my dishes. For example my Vietnamese Grilled Oysters recipe uses chilli flakes, finely ground into powder and so does my Salmon with Chilli Bean, Garlic and Ginger Oil recipe, which also features Lee Kum Kee’s Chilli Bean Sauce. My Vegetable Singapore Noodles has chilli powder added, because it’s the perfect ingredient for adding a real ‘kick’ to dishes, whilst enhancing flavours.”
Over the course of ten episodes, Pang travels around the UK, revealing Britain’s most-recognised landscapes, local producers and local ingredients, before giving them his own authentic Chinese and Asian-influenced treatment.
Some of True’s favourite recipes that incorporate chillies include Opium Chicken, a nod to Bengal’s past, which was a hub for opium production in the 19th century.
EATUREF Torie True www.worldfoodlife.uk 28
Health benefits True believes that eating chillies regularly is beneficial to health and helps keep colds at bay. They contain vitamins, particularly A & C, which are powerful for boosting immunity and fibre, as well as minerals such as potassium and a compound called ‘capsaicin’ - this is the substance that makes you feel the heat. A curry often warms you up as the chillies raise the metabolic rate. They are regarded as a superfood that are good to incorporate into your diet, but if you are new to chillies, start with the mild ones and gradually increase the heat as you build up a tolerance.
Poppy seeds found their way into the local cuisine and the dish features ‘posto’ - ‘white poppy seeds’ - paste with succulent chicken and fresh green chillies. Keralan Cabbage
Chilli oil can also add a creative twist to salads – you could try combining plum sauce with Lee Kum Kee’s Chiu Chow Chilli Oil for a combination of fruity sweetness and aromatic spiciness. Or combine hoisin with light soy sauce and orange juice, to give a mixture of savoury, spicy, fruity sweetness with the depth of umami. Lee Kum Kee’s chilli oil is particularly popular for dipping, dumplings, dim sum, stir fries, noodles, dressings and salads, adding a ‘kick’ to dishes.
YOUR WORLDWIDE FLIGHT SOLUTIONS Business or Pleasure Need a flight and hotel? Look No Further Travel Link IS THE CHOICE We have many special deals on flights and hotels to destinations in the Middle East, South East Asia and Far East. To find out more please call us or go online: www.travellink.co.uk Sales Enquiries: sales@travellink.co.uk Travel Link Worldwide Limited 6 Brick Lane, London El 6RF Call us on 020 7375 1661 SYLHET or SINGAPORE DELHI or DUBAI www.worldfoodlife.uk29
A focus on fresh and seasonal Turkish cuisine is the order of the day at Zahter
www.worldfoodlife.uk 30
ProfilentrepreneurE
www.worldfoodlife.uk31
You’ll find Sogurme, smoked aubergine, tomato, pepper,
Muslu first came to London when she was 18 to study, but later left to do a degree in Culinary Arts at Swinburne University of Technology in Melbourne, Australia. She then returned to Istanbul where, in 2007, she based herself at the fine-dining concept Moreish, located in the city’s Beyoğlu district. The idea proved popular, and eventually led to Muslu forming a partnership with others, to launch a collection of six more restaurants, including Nu Pera, Moreish, Backyard, Auf, Kauf & Unter.
Zahter opened in central London in December last year, with a mission to provide ‘a fresh perspective on flavours and storytelling on traditional Turkish food’. Dishes are influenced by Istanbul’s vast ethnic heritage, while the restaurant’s name refers to wild thyme found in the higher mountains of the southeast of Turkey. For chef and owner Esra Muslu, who first came to London in 1995, Zahter has been in the making for some time, with the idea for the restaurant having been drawn up pre-pandemic.
ProfilentrepreneurE
Prior to Zahter, Muslu also held the position of head chef at Ottolenghi Spitalfields before embarking on a successful residency at Carousel in 2018. Dishes on that menu featured mezze such as Grilled Octopus, Broad Bean Purée, Dill, Parsley and Spring Onion and Roasted Lamb Shoulder, Aubergine Begendi and Dukkah. Muslu also partnered with Nick Jones to work as head chef at Soho House Istanbul. Flavour sensation With Zahter, Muslu is aiming to challenge expectations of Turkish cooking in the capital, re-educating audiences on regionality and flavour. Signature items are derived from the old recipes but revived with Zahter’s cooking methods and artisanal-sourced produce. The restaurant features an open kitchen with a central wood and charcoal oven with the menu showcasing a range of hot and cold mezze alongside more substantial platters.
Muslu founded the restaurant alongside her sister Yasemin Efe and their business partner Simay Kamer, who owns an Istanbul-based patisserie. As Muslu’s debut restaurant in the UK, she believes it’s definitely been worth the wait and she has had plenty of experience to call on.
Ezra Mulsu
“I’ve learnt everything on the job, that is the best way,” says Muslu.
“My most valuable lesson is to not
Zahter is also open for breakfast, offering Menemen - scrambled eggs with tomato sauce, parsley, olive oil, wood oven pide and Turkish Shakshuka, with roasted aubergine, courgette, smoked labneh, garlic and tomato sauce, pide. There’s also a range of pastries to choose from, and decor that brings Turkish heritage to life while combining it with modern touches. Everything from crockery, furniture and kitchen equipment to lights and linens have been sourced and imported from Muslu’s homeland, while counter tops are made from organic wood and marble.
Zahter: seasonal flavours Patlican
Koz
www.worldfoodlife.uk 32
ProfilentrepreneurE
garlic, pomegranate molasses; Gavurdag, tomato, cucumber, onion, urfa chilli, walnuts and Odun Atesinde Patates, wood fire potatoes with gremolata.
“Turkey is a vast country and this is reflected in the cooking techniques - in some areas they tend not to use spices, favouring flavours such as lemon, using more oil, vegetables and fish, and in other areas such as Hatay, there is plenty of spice,” says travelMuslu.totheBlackSea region, you will taste a lot of wild herbs in the dishes.”
Lessons learned A typical day for Muslu starts at 5.30am, early enough for her to practice meditation before heading to the kitchen and preparing the food with her staff. The menu changes according to what’s in season and what is proving popular with customers.
“The menu is inspired by what I love to cook and eat and by what is in season,” says Muslu. “When the seasons change, we can change the menu and include four or five new dishes. The concept enables me to showcase different cuisines from the many regions in Turkey.”
Platter-wise, there is Cupra, sea bream, chimichurri; Tavuk, marinated chicken thigh, spring onion; Kuzu Guvec, wood oven diced lamb shoulder casserole, dried fig, plum, cinnamon, almond; Kofte & Piyaz, lamb meatballs, tahini beans, red onion, mixed herbs, pistachio and Dana Kulbasti, beef fillet, caramelised onion, begendi.
Muslu says that at 22 dishes, the menu is just right - compact without being too limiting and extensive enough to feature a combinationgoodofcooking techniques and flavours.
Passion point It will take a lot more than a hike in prices to derail Muslu’s ambition though. Cooking is her passion, and she clearly enjoys producing new “Whenrecipes.yousee customers eating your food for the first time and the look on their faces, and the way they talk about your food - this is what continues to motivate me,” she says. “I enjoy experimenting with new flavours and tastes and I love getting feedback from Shecustomers”.alsoenjoys travelling around Turkey, visiting different regions and cities, and says she is still learning every yousametheareyears,forbeeneverythingcooking,schoolacrossyou“Sometimesday.comeanold-styleofwherehasthesamethelast50peoplestillmakingfoodinthewaybutstilldiscover
panic and to keep calm - if you or your staff start panicking, this leads to mistakes. Try and enjoy the work and everything flows from there. Carousel was a popup event where I experimented with lots of different flavours and dishes and at Ottolenghi I learnt a lot that is reflected in Zahter”.
Muslu has also designed Zahter to be as versatile a space as possible, so that it can cater to more intimate diners and groups as well as those wanting to host corporate and private events. The restaurant is spread across three floors: the Ground Floor area, with tables between the open kitchen and large windows; the First Floor, serving as Zahter’s main dining room ad designed to host up to 40 covers and The Loft, a cookeryschool-come-event space, which can accommodate up to 25 people and which can be hired for private dining and parties. There is also an outside space, giving diners the opportunity to enjoy food al fresco.
ProfilentrepreneurE
Zahter
www.worldfoodlife.uk33
Zeytinyagli Rezene Drinks
And while London in particular has its fair share of Turkish restaurants, Muslu says it’s all healthy competition with plenty of room for new establishments, such is the variety of Turkish cuisine.
Muslu says her biggest challenge was finding the right staff. In the time it has taken for Zahtar to open, however, there have been many other hurdles for the hospitality industry to overcome, including the high price of “Pricesingredients.areincreasing for both local and imported goods as well as fruit, vegetables and fish,” she acknowledges. “We source as much as we can everyday, everything is prepared on the day and freshly cooked. If we can’t find good ingredients for a particular dish, we won’t cook it.”
something new,” she says. “It’s also important for my restaurant to have its own identity, to take what I learn and put my own twist on it.”
Grawnfwydyddsy’ncynnwysglwten Gwenith (megis gwenith yr Almaen, Khorasan, Kamut), Rhyg, Haidd, Ceirch containingCerealsgluten Wheat (such as Spelt, Khorasan, Kamut), Rye, Barley, Oats PysgnauPeanutsCnau Coed Tree Nuts MwstardLlaethMilkSoiaSoyaMustardBys y LupinblaiddWyauEggs PysgodFish CramenogionCrustaceansMolysgiaidMolluscs Hadau SesameSesameSeeds CelerySeleri Sylffwr Deuocsid (sylffitau) Sulphur Dioxide (sulphites) RHOWCH WYBOD INNI OS OES GENNYCH ALERGEDDAU NEU ANODDEFIADAU BWYD TELL US IF YOU HAVE AN ALLERGY OR INTOLERANCE আপনার ক�াননা অ্ালার্জি থা�নল বা ক�াননা খাবার সহ্ না হনল আমানের ্ানান Bengali গ্লুনেন আনে এমন খাে্শস্ গম (যেমন যপেল্ট, য�োরোসোন, কোমুট), রোই, বোর্লি, ওটস বাোমবৃ নষের বাোম কসাদুধযাসরনেলু রপন রিংর়ি ও � �়িা ্াতীযরতমােলবী্ কসলারর রিম শামু �, রিনু � ্াতীয সালফার িাইঅক্াইি (সো্ফোইটস্) eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 34
With food allergies become more common, it’s vital for those in hospitality to have a clear process in place to ensure a safe dining experience
Food business operators in the retail and catering sector are required to provide allergen information and follow labelling rules as set out in food law. As the Food Standards Agency states, this means that food business operators must provide allergen information to the consumer for both prepacked and nonprepacked food and drinks and handle and manage food allergens effectively in food Modern-daypreparation.allergens can be something of a minefield, however, and restaurant and bar staff can often lack the confidence or the necessary training to ensure that customers have a safe dining experience. High staff turnover in the food industry, which is particularly the case in the current climate, also means many restaurants can often fall behind with new employee food safety Cherrytraining.Hagger, food allergy awareness officer at charity Allergy UK, which works with toandhealthcareprofessionalgovernment,bodies,professionalscorporatebusinesseshelpimprovethelives
ALL ABOUT
Hit and miss According to Allergy UK’s latest research, released in October 2021, 40% of people feel anxious when eating out, 54% felt discriminated against by food businesses and 45% were not told when a dish had an allergic ingredient despite asking, and this had led to a bad reaction.
“Many staff these days may be given an online course around food allergy awareness to complete but the current training available to businesses can be very hit and miss,” she says. “Many training companies are selling training that is incomplete, inaccurate, or just out of date. This can lead to poor allergy customer service as your knowledge is incomplete.”
of the millions of people with allergic diseases, says there are new demands on businesses around allergy all the time.
Hagger suggests that practical training from a manager or supervisor is important as it helps staff to understand that food businesses have a unique environment.
UK is currently in the process of developing new online interactive training and face-to- face programmes for both restaurant workers (front of house and in the kitchen) and also for managers.
eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk35
“Prepacked for Direct Sale (PPDS), commonly known as Natasha’s law is the latest change in 2021, and due to the war in Ukraine there are supply issues with sunflower oils, which has led suppliers to substitute other oils that they sell to restaurants, increasing the risk of allergies,” she says. “Businesses need to be on their guard and constantly updating their knowledge and keeping an eye on changes or substitutions in the supply chains. This can be challenging with the other business demands such as staff turnover and shortages, food supply issues and the energy crisis. Businesses without good training plans and processes can start to feel overwhelmed and under pressure which can lead to mistakes being made.”
“It’s not just the staff who need to be aware of food allergies, there also need to be strict processes in place with regards to allergen ordering, cooking stations, labelling and incident reporting, to help reduce risk to the customer,” she adds. “Having an appointed ‘Allergy Champion’ in the business who can give support to the staff if questions arise is important Allergytoo.”
Cherry
Hagger says that someone starting work in any type of food business should ensure that they are provided training on what food allergies are and know about the 14 allergens all businesses need to highlight. These are: celery, cereals containing gluten (such as barley and oats), crustaceans (such as prawns, crabs and lobsters), eggs, fish, lupin, milk, molluscs (such as mussels and oysters), mustard, peanuts, sesame, soybeans, sulphur dioxide and sulphites (if the sulphur dioxide and sulphites are at a concentration of more than ten parts per million) and tree nuts (such as almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, brazil nuts, cashews, pecans, pistachios and macadamia nuts).
“With the help of our team of experts with the clinical knowledge of allergy, we are looking to provide engaging, practical and up to date training courses,” says Hagger. “Through our public helpline we have a direct ear to the issues facing the allergic community which helps us to understand the demands being placed on businesses.” Hagger
Ludovica De Pieri
eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 36
“In twenty four hours, restaurants can go from having out of date risky allergens management with no online presence, to putting in place highly reliable allergens and calories compliance, all automated and quickly updated on a digital menu,” says De Pieri.
Based on usage thus far, De Pieri says the software has contributed to a 100% increase in allergens analysis accuracy and offers full compliance for calories labelling legislation that came into force in April. Some users have seen an 80% improvement in their ranking on Google for searches such as “restaurant around me”,”vegetarian” and “gluten free”, as well as a 50% increase in organic visits and orders and up to a 45% increase in takeaway sales.
Alongside Reveal My Food, Pieri also offers restaurants a tailored consultation and an evaluation of their current operations, with the aim of finding the best strategy to optimise their operations, increase online presence and maximise the value of their ingredients.AllergyUKwill be relaunching its Allergy Aware Scheme this year. Restaurants can apply to become one of its approved catering businesses. Businesses that pass the assessment process are awarded the Allergy UK endorsement as a recognition for their allergen awareness standards within their restaurant.
Nutritionist and hospitality sector consultant Ludovica De Pieri is founder and CEO of RevealUK, which helps restaurants improve the way they manage allergens. De Pieri gave a presentation on allergens at the recent Curry Life Culinary Workshop. Her business uses software to generate digital menus that can be used by any restaurant, but it is particularly beneficial for those that experience high footfall, or who might be short of staff, so they can easily manage any diners’ queries. There is no app to download and the digital menu comes as a URL, providing restaurants with the flexibility they need. The URL can also be added to any platform from Google Business to Tripadvisor to restaurants’ dedicated webpages, and also added onto the physical menu in the form of a QR code.
Digital impact
Bristol restaurant offers carbon footprint menus
The Canteen, a vegetarian restaurant in Bristol, has designed its menu to prioritse carbon footprints over calories.
eatureF
Emily Miles, chief executive at the FSA, said: “As well as giving us an important insight into the FSA’s core responsibility of food safety, Food and You 2 also provides us with a detailed snapshot of peoples’ perceptions and behaviours on food-related issues, including sustainability, food security, and their diets”.
As part of a first-of-its-kind trial in Bristol, the menus encourage diners to consider the impact that their food choices have on the planet. The trial is being run in partnership with the UK’s largest vegan charity, Viva!, and carbon calculations and labelling provider, My Emissions. Viva!, is calling for menus to prioritise carbon footprint labelling over calories as a matter of urgency as the climate crisis grows. With meat, dairy, fish and eggs having a considerably
Research published by the Food Standards Agency indicates that the top three food-related concerns amongst consumers in England, Wales and Northern Ireland are food waste, the amount of sugar in food, and animal welfare, with over half of respondents reporting that they are concerned about each of these Findingsissues.fromFood and You 2, the FSA’s flagship consumer survey, show 63% of respondents citing food waste and 59% the amount of sugar in food, while 56% are concerned about animal welfare (56%). Two in five also say they’ve eaten less processed food in the past year, and are trying to cut down on food waste. The survey is an official statistic and measures self-reported knowledge, attitudes and behaviours related to food safety and other food issues amongst adults in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland twice a year. The latest survey was carried out between October 2021 and January 2022.
higher negative impact on the planet than vegan alternatives, Viva! Is looking to raise awareness of the link between food choices and the Lauraenvironment.Hellwig, managing director at Viva! said: “Raising awareness of the carbon footprints from the production of meat, dairy, fish and eggs is crucial – a lot of people have no idea that eating one beef burger can be as damaging as driving the average UK petrol car for 10 miles. We’re really pleased to have partnered with The Canteen. It’s been interesting to see the responses from different Drrestaurants.”MatthewHarris, head chef at The Canteen, said: “Including carbon footprints on menus is a positive step in encouraging people to be more aware of the impact of their choices. We are delighted with the carbon calculations of our menu, made up of predominantly vegan dishes, showing the importance of sustainable choices. If carbon labelling was rolled out across the UK, we’d see restaurants and customers encouraged to make better decisions around the food they consume.”
Consumers view food waste as a ‘top concern’
WFL enjoys Mediterraneansomesunshine and fine fare in central London
Southbank Mediterranean Restaurant, which also goes by the names of Troia Restaurant, and Southbank Charcoal Kebab, is tucked away under the pillars of County Hall in Waterloo, just a few steps away from the London Eye. Visiting over the summer on one of the hottest days of the year (thankfully not when it hit 40 degrees), the outside terrace was buzzing with diners, even in the late afternoon.
The restaurant has been an institution in the area for some time and since 2004, has been run by Ibrahim Dogus, who is also chair of the British Takeaway Campaign umbrella group and founder of the British Kebab Awards. Dogus was born in Turkey and worked in several restaurants in London, while studying for a degree in politics and international studies. As well as Troia, he also runs the two restaurants on either sideWestminster Kitchen and La Cucina di InsideMamma.thespacious, glass-fronted restaurant (which seats up to 150 people), the décor features wooden floors and exposed brickwork, adorned with black and white photos. There’s a range of different seating available - from standard tables to high tables/counter style seating to more comfy-looking sofas. It has an industrial-looking feel, with dark colours - browns, blues and blacks, but an interesting use of lighting makes it all look quite modern and inviting too.
ReviewestaurantR
www.worldfoodlife.uk 38
Medley
Mediterranean
The staff are friendly and attentive and the extensive menu has something for everyone, with a range of cold and hot starters, burgers, vegetarian dishes, pasta, salad, seafood, grills, steaks and casseroles. You’ll find standard Middle Eastern/Mediterranean fare such as mixed meze, shish kebabs and mixed grills, while there’s a separate menu for children, which is likely popular given the restaurant’s location. Still, Dogus informed us, this was a reduced menu, due to ongoing supply chain issues post-pandemic. “We normally have twice as much as this - we want to provide a great variety for our customers,” he says.
We tried the Iskender kebab, basically a layered kebab - Troia’s version featured a very generous mix of lamb, chicken and minced lamb kebab with bread, yoghurt, tomato and sizzled butter sauce, all served in one bowl. The meat - all of it, was delicious, tender and juicy, in particular the chicken, and while the dish might have benefited from a more refined presentation, the way it was served made it tempting to dig right in. The tomatoes gave the dish a sharp zinging taste, while the yoghurt drizzle on top was a nice counterpart to what can be quite a heavy meat dish (and it was also refreshing on such a hot day).
The bread was cut into little bits and placed at the bottom, giving a different texture to the dish and it went particularly well with the Wetomatoes.alsotried the chicken shish kebab, served with rice and salad and chicken wings - both of which were tender and delicious.
Portions for all the dishes were very generous, something of a rarity in the restaurant trade at present, with many places upping prices but cutting back on portion sizes (understandably in response to rising operation costs). Some of the more popular dishes on the menu include the mixed grill, which gives you the chance to try a little bit of everything and the steaks. There’s also a good range of vegetarian and gluten free options on the menu. Ongoing challenges Reviews on sites such as TripAdvisor often comment on the restaurant being a ‘nice place to sit and people watch’ but it’s clear that it’s equally pleasing for the tasty dishes and welcoming service.
“We’reservice.paying rent, corporation tax, labour costs and the price of ingredients has increased,” acknowledges Dogus. “At the same time, people are cutting back on going out as they are also looking to reduce their spend - there are tochallengesmanyaddressin the current climate.”
With the restaurant having been closed for much of 2020 and the first half of 2021 and little demand for takeaways with the catchment area being mostly tourists and office workers, Dogus is keen to get back to pre-pandemic trading levels. He says the restaurant would normally do between 400 to 500 covers a day, with non-stop
“It’s a difficult thing to achievethere are plenty of people talking about it which is great, but introducing practical initiatives will be challenging, particularly for those smaller restaurants, where finances are stretched,” says Dogus. He believes he is fortunate in many ways: the majority of his staff have been with him for several years and the restaurant’s food continues to have a strong appeal.
“The kebab industry is on the rise and when food is cooked on charcoal as we do here it’s a healthier option than other types of cuisine,’ says Dogus. “We also have lots of vegetable dishes that are proving more and more popular.”
ReviewestaurantR www.worldfoodlife.uk
Meat feast
Southbank Mediterranean Restaurant (Troia) Unit 3F, County Hall Belvedere Road London SE1 https://www.troia-restaurant.co.uk7GQ
39
He’s also keenly aware of issues such as sustainability and the trend for more healthy food choices but says many small businesses are still grasping what it means to be sustainable and how to approach this, without incurring additional costs.
Restaurants on the RADAR WFL looks at the eateries opening their doors across the UK and those shutting up shop Charles Artisan Bread eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 40
eatureF
41
Opened or in the pipeline
The word ‘Mriya’ means dream and the aim is for the restaurant to become an exhibition space for Ukrainian art and culture.
Clapton’s micro bakery Charles Artisan Bread has opened its second site in Stratford, providing freshly-based goods. Carb-loving consumers can choose from several options, including the Clapton Sourdough (white), the Charles Wholemeal Sourdough, the Multigrain Wholemeal Sourdough and daily specials, as well as savoury Focaccia and sandwiches. Sweet lovers can pick from a selection of handmade pastries, alongside an extensie. vegan offer with Vegan Almond Danish, Vegan Pear & Almond Danish and Vegan Apple Crumble Danish.
Fast-food burger restaurant chain Burger & Sauce, which was set up two years ago during the pandemic, says interest in franchise opportunities is growing. Company founder Saad Masood said: “Our experienced franchise team led by Anthony Round has worked hard and taken time to put all the necessary elements in place to develop a compelling franchise opportunity from setting up new franchisee training, operations manual, a site sourcing team to marketing. We have recognised the opportunity and now invite other like-minded people to leverage our brand’s success to create their own Burger & Sauce restaurant with our full back-up and Dominicsupport.”Chapman, who currently operates The Beehive in White Waltham, has taken over the Michelin-starred gastropub The Crown at Burchetts Green in Berkshire. The Crown, previously owned by chef Simon Bonwick, was opened 10 years ago, in 2012. Chapman reopened the restaurant in Burger & Sauce www.worldfoodlife.uk
Dishoom Canary Wharf is opening its doors this winter, and says its latest venue ‘will bring to life the andswindlesfortunesscenebig-business,glittering-shimmering,metropolitanof‘70sBombay.Whenweremadeandlost,plottedanduncovered,dreamsweredreamedand broken.’ It will offer a similar concept to other Dishoom branches, including breakfast and mid-morning chai lunch, afternoon tipples, evening feasts and late-night snacks.
Restaurant Mriya is opening in west London, staffed by Ukrainian refugees, and with Ukrainian chef Yurii Kovryzhenko at the helm.
In an article in The Guardian, Kovryzhenko’s partner, Olga Tsybytovska, said: “We want this space to be like a cultural embassy of Ukraine in the UK. To be like a representative of our country here. We want to fill it with Ukrainian energy, including people and pieces of art and food, taste, everything.”
oowee eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk 42
JKS Food Hall
JKS Restaurants is planning a second Arcade Food Hall at Battersea Power Station in 2023, following the opening of the first food hall in Tottenham Court Road’s Centre Point. The new food hall will be situated at the heart of Battersea Power Station and will be a 24,000 square foot space with the interior design led by Red Deer. Amongst a number of new JKS brands that will make up the food hall, JKS will also bring three standalone restaurants to the Battersea offering, including
Mark Poynton, chef patron at Restaurant MJP at The Shepherds, Cambridge, which opened in June 2020, is unveiling a new restaurant in 2023. Mark Poynton at Caistor Hall will be open from Wednesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner and will be offering a tasting menu only, which will be five or nine courses at lunch, and the full nine courses at dinner. The new venture will have 8 tables, offering a maximum of 40 covers for each service and a vegetarian and vegan option will also be available.
Plant-based Oowee has opened a 30-seater restaurant in The Lanes in Brighton, serving its signature vegan burgers and ‘Chick’n & Dirty Fries’.
mid-June and said he is excited to get up and running with the new venture as soon as possible. He said: “I am always looking for new opportunities and The Crown has a fantastic reputation with lots of room to develop,” he said. “My team wants to grow and while it’s a challenging time to take over a new business, there’s a lot to look forward to.”
Oowee previously had delivery pop-ups around Brighton. It has four other locations, two in Briston and two in Brighton.
London Chinatown institution Joy King Lau closed down in early summer, with owners penning the following note on Instagram: “It is with a heavy heart we announce that we will be closing from 4th July and there will be a change of management. The current team will all be leaving after nearly 30 years of service and we want to say a huge thank you to all of you who have supported us, especially the last two years in the pandemic.’
Those that have closed Fresh pasta restaurant Pastaio closed its site at Westfield London in early August. A note on its Instagram feed said: ‘We’re sad to announce that we’ve had to close our Pastaio in Westfield. Rest assured that you can still get your fresh pasta fix and catch up with your favourite team members at our Ganton Street restaurant.’
Taiwanese restaurant BAO, and a yet-to-be announced Thai restaurant.
Bristol discounted food and drink app Wriggle, which features deals from restaurants, has closed down, with founder Rob Hill saying the business struggled to recover from the Covid-19 pandemic. Speaking to Bristol Live, Hill said: “After each lockdown, we tried to return - but too much momentum was lost, and there was so much pent-up demand for dining out post-pandemic (and red tape around dining restrictions with the rule of six) that our restaurant partners didn’t come back to Wriggle at sufficient speed.’
eatureF www.worldfoodlife.uk43
For a Japanese/Brazilian offering, head to Manchester’s SakkuSamba, which opened at the end of July. The restaurant, located in Spinningfields, describes itself as offering ‘the wonders of Japanese-Brazilian cuisine with our immersive dining concept’. It celebrates the Brazilian Gaúcho’s traditional method of cooking, as well as Brazilian cuts such as Picanha and Alcatro alongside tuna and salmon nigiri and sashimi.
Karam Sethi, founder and creative director of JKS said: “We’re looking forward to opening Arcade at Battersea Power Station next year. We will be creating a number of exciting new brands which showcase even more global cuisines, while also expanding and developing some of our existing Arcade brands, to create a food and drink destination south of the river worth travelling for.”
Pastaio
Catalan-themed La Cuina, located in Cardiff has closed its doors, having opened ten years ago. Owner Montserrat Prat told Wales Online: “We have sustained this idea of ethical sourcing whenever possible during these 10 years of trading, and this has driven our approach throughout. [Then] Brexit was implemented and things have changed substantially.” A note on social media said: “La Cuina will permanently close its doors to the public on 3 September. Thank you customers for making this project possible, thank you to all our members of our team.”
At the time of launch, HollandDavis said: “We will be celebrating some of the greatest culinary and beverage concepts the world has to offer at one of London’s most stunning locations, The Royal Hospital Chelsea and we can’t wait. We have a love in London for life’s simple pleasures: great food, great drink and great company and that is what Savour is all about.”
Alex Holland-Davis (right)
“The idea behind Savour has been a bit of an evolution,” explains Holland-Davis. “We’ve been running street food festivals for a while and we wanted to introduce Savour, which took place in July, is one of the latest food festivals to launch in the UK.
www.worldfoodlife.uk 44
The food festival scene has flourished in the last few years with events covering many different types of food, cuisine and production, both in the UK and abroad. In recent months, the UK has played host to touring events such as Foodies Festival, which takes place from April to September (it’s next due in Norwich and Exeter and has also visited Tatton Park and Glasgow this year, among several other locations) and Pub in the Park, the food festival launched by Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge. This too takes place across a number of UK locations, including London, St Albans, Marlow and Brighton and brands itself as a celebration of food, drink and music.
eAtureF
One of the latest festivals on the scene is Savour, a two-day London event, which describes itself as a ‘festival of flavours and fine dishes’ and which took place at the Royal Hospital, Chelsea in west London, the home of the Chelsea Pensioners, retired soldiers of the British Army. The festival, which took place over the weekend of the 30-31 July, is the brainchild of Alex HollandDavis, and aimed to bring together some of the most sought-after restaurants and bars in the UK in one venue.
Savour also challenged chefs to create a £3 dish and hosted live cooking demonstrations. Over the weekend, it welcomed more than 30 chefs and showcased more than 12 of the best restaurants, alongside a range of alfresco bars.
Fine dining
WFL caught up with founder Alex Holland-Davis to find out what it offers the moment
Inside Pataka: contemporary cuisine
The festival took place in The Royal Hospital Chelsea’s Ranelagh Gardens, formerly a pleasure garden, and which now forms part of the land used for the worldfamous Chelsea Flower Show.
More unusual food festivals have included the Isle of Wight Garlic Festival, the Rock Oyster Festival in Cornwall and VegFest UK, which says it attracts ten thousand- plus visitors over a weekend, alongside 250 exhibitors.
For Holland-Davis, Savour has been several years in the making. Having previously worked for Clarion Events, he also founded Wingjam, the chicken wing festival that launched in Peckham in 2018, featuring three days of chicken wings and live bands. Wingjam recently held its biggest edition yet, at the Vaults in London’s Leake Street in June.
From concept to reality
Gourmet cuisine
Frenchie’s menu, a one-off special menu created by Greg Marchand and the Frenchie Covent Garden team for the festival, featured Bacon Scone, Maple Syrup & Cornish Clotted Cream, Heritage Tomato Panzanella, Berries, Tomato Consomme, Glazed Beef Short Rib with Elderflower Sabayon, Salsa Verde, BBQ Grelot Onions & Crushed Potatoes and Banoffee, Nutmeg & Caramelized Pecan.
“The increased price of fuel over the last months has had an incredible effect, our budget has gone over by quite a bit,” Holland-Davis.acknowledges“Itisasold-out event however and the atmosphere is really buzzing, it’s an incredible venue.”
“The festival took place at an incredible venue,’ says HollandDavis. “We’d like to do this on an annual basis, but ensure it is tied into the Royal Hospital. We’ve taken our inspiration from the iconic Chelsea Flower Show and the Masterpiece London Fair [an art fair taking place in the same location where visitors can view and buy the finest works of art, design, furniture and jewellery - from antiquity to the present day]. We want to offer the same vibe and ethos as these two events, but this time for food” .
something that was very central and accessible, creating an event where people could try everything within a reasonable budget. That was our founding core principle, to create something that was very simple and that is where the £3 dish came from [Savour challenged chefs to serve up a £3 signature dish]. Savour was originally slated to launch in 2019, but the Covid pandemic put paid to those plans.
Holland-Davis’ take on food trends to watch in 2022 and beyond include dishes that are simple to eat and accessible, such as Japanese temaki (hand-rolled sushi, alongside more exotic flavours such as Mexican and Korean. Food and drink festivals to look forward to Little Orchard Cider Festival, 9-11 September at Healeys Cornish Cider Farm, which showcases ciders from across the UK Ludlow Food Festival, 9-11 September, featuring more than 180 small independent food and drink producers, predominantly from Ludlow and the Marches
Having finally launched three years later, there have been additional challenges to deal with.
London Halal Food Festival, 24-25 September, London Stadium, which features celebrity chefs and international Halal cuisines Aldeburgh Food & Drink Festival, 24-25 September at Snape promotingMaltings,andsupporting Suffolk-based producers, farmers and products
Savour: two-day festival www.worldfoodlife.uk
Scottish Wild Food Festival, 17-18 September, which celebrates wild food and foraging in Scotland, close to Glasgow and Stirling
Savour also partnered with the Felix Project to deliver all its leftover food, that would otherwise go to waste, to charities and schools across the city. The Felix Project helps to ensure healthy meals are provided to the most vulnerable in our society.
eAtureF
45
Over the course of the weekend, guests could sample menus from a range of restaurants, with a focus on seasonal cooking and quality. These included Frenchie’s, which featured fried chicken and a set menu, renowned seafood restaurant The Melusine, which served sustainable oysters, Steak & Co, Otto, Chicken George and La Roulotte, among others. Food media platform Mob created a three-course, plant-based menu in collaboration with The Vegetarian Butcher, which featured three sittings on each day. The Vegetarian Butcher offers plantbased butcher’s cuts, with the aim of helping meat lovers to continue to enjoy their favourite dishes without missing out on anything when leaving animal meat out of the diet.
Char Siu Chicken Banh Mis By Joshuah Nishi CharIngredientsSiuChicken 2 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons honey 1 tablespoon ketchup 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder 5 boneless, skinless chicken thighs Pickled Vegetables 4 ounces / 115g carrot, peeled 4 ounces / 115g daikon radish, peeled 1⁄4 cup / 50g sugar 1 tablespoon Himalayan pink salt 1⁄2 cup / 120ml rice vinegar Banh Mi 3 French rolls Mayonnaise Thinly sliced cucumber Thinly sliced jalapeño Cilantro sprigs www.worldfoodlife.uk 46
EcipeR DF WNETORK
Tik Tok food hacks and recipes are an entertaining way to learn about the latest food trends and flavours. So here’s an easy way to access them in one place. As Cooked on Tik Tok (published by Ebury Press in June), includes fan favourites and recipe exclusives from more than 40 creators, alongside a foreword by Gordon and Tilly Ramsay. Try your hand at making variations on classics, such as the Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich or new twists on traditional dishes, such as Ramen EachCarbonara.recipe also includes a QR code to scan, which opens up onto each creator’s page. If you want to get your fix of some tasty dishes, try out the recipes below.
Remove the chicken from the oven and slather with the reserved char siu sauce. Let the chicken rest for 5 minutes so the sauce thickens from the residual heat, then thinly slice. For the banh mi: While the oven is still warm from the chicken, stick in the rolls to warm up. After 5 minutes, remove them. Split the toasted rolls horizontally in half, but not all the way through. Scoop some of the crumb out from the middle of the bread to be able to add more filling to the sandwich. Spread each roll with mayonnaise all over the inside. Add one-third of the chicken to the bottom of each roll and top with cucumber, pickled vegetables, jalapeño, and cilantro. Close up and serve right away.
Method
Haitian Jackfruit Enchiladas By Gabrielle Reyes @onegreatvegan Ingredients (serves 6) Jackfruit Poule en Sauce 1 cup / 240ml vegan chicken broth or vegetable broth, plus more as needed 1 heaping tablespoon minced fresh parsley 1 heaping tablespoon tomato paste 2 teaspoons fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves 11⁄2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar 1 garlic clove, minced 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon maple syrup, or to taste 1⁄2 heaping teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1⁄2 teaspoon ground turmeric 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano 1⁄2 to 1 teaspoon minced Scotch bonnet pepper, to taste Salt 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon vegan butter 1⁄4 small white onion, sliced 2 (14-ounce / 425g) cans young jackfruit, drained and chopped 1⁄2 medium boiling potato, unpeeled and diced 1⁄2 small red bell pepper, thinly sliced Enchiladas 4 tablespoons / 60g vegan butter 2 tablespoons chili powder 4 tablespoons / 35g glutenfree flour 1 (15-ounce / 425g) can pureed tomatoes or plain tomato sauce 11⁄2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste 3⁄4 teaspoon garlic powder 3⁄4 teaspoon onion powder Salt 3 ⁄4 cup / 180ml vegan chicken broth or vegetable broth 12 (6-inch / 15cm) tortillas 2 cups / 230g vegan mozzarella shreds 1⁄4 cup / 10g minced fresh parsley 1⁄4 cup / 38g crumbled vegan feta cheese EcipeR www.worldfoodlife.uk47
For the char siu: In a medium bowl, mix the garlic, hoisin, soy sauce, honey, ketchup, sesame oil and five-spice. Set aside about 1⁄4 cup / 60ml of the char siu sauce in another bowl. Trim any fat off the thighs. Score the underside of the chicken by making shallow, criss cross cuts on the thickest part of the thighs and press flat, so the chicken is roughly the same thickness all over. Add the chicken to the marinade and toss to coat. Marinate for 20 minutes at room temperature or up to overnight, covered, in the fridge.
For the pickled vegetables: Cut the carrot and daikon into matchsticks and transfer to a small bowl. Add the sugar and salt and massage it all together. Stir in the rice vinegar and 1⁄4 cup / 60ml water. Let the pickles sit for at least 20 minutes or up to overnight, covered, in the fridge. Preheat the oven to 400°F / 200°C. Line a sheet pan with foil or parchment paper. Put the chicken on the prepared pan and bake until the chicken is completely cooked through and the marinade is starting to caramelize, 20 to 35 minutes, depending on the size of your chicken thighs (you can make a small cut in one and see if it’s still pink inside after 20 minutes of cooking).
www.worldfoodlife.uk 48
In a 9 × 13-inch / 24 × 36cm baking dish, use a spoon or spatula to spread 1⁄2 cup / 120ml of the enchilada sauce all over the bottom. Add the filled tortillas seam-side down in a single layer of two rows of six each. Make sure the enchiladas are nice and cozy. Spoon the remaining enchilada sauce on top and sprinkle with the remaining mozzarella. Top with half of the parsley and half the feta cheese, reserving the rest. Bake the enchiladas until the cheese is melted and bubbling on top, 18 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, make the mango salsa: In a medium bowl, combine the mangoes, bell pepper, scallion greens, lime juice, oil, Scotch bonnet pepper, smoked paprika, and black pepper. Season with salt. Mix until well combined. When the enchiladas are ready, sprinkle with the remaining feta cheese and parsley and serve hot with the mango salsa on the side.
Make the enchiladas: In a large frying pan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Whisk in the chili powder. Add 2 tablespoons of the gluten-free flour and whisk until completely smooth (the mixture will thicken a little). Whisk in the pureed tomatoes, cumin, black pepper, garlic powder, and onion powder to combine. Season with salt. Keep whisking while adding the broth. Bring the sauce to a simmer, then reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes to let the avors mix. Taste the enchilada sauce and add more salt if necessary. Set aside.
In a large pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the jackfruit and cook until the jackfruit is tender and the onion is soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the reserved sauce to the pot along with the potato and bell pepper and stir until combined. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until the potato is cooked through, about 25 minutes. Check occasionally and add more vegetable broth a splash at a time if the mixture starts to look dry before the potatoes have cooked. Preheat the oven to 425°F / 220°C.
Mango Salsa
2 large mangoes, cubed 1 medium green bell pepper, diced 1⁄4 cup / 10g sliced scallions, green parts only 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1tablespoon neutral oil (Gabrielle uses grapeseed oil) 11⁄ 2 teaspoons to 1 tablespoon minced Scotch bonnet pepper, to taste 3 ⁄4 teaspoon smoked paprika 1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Salt
EcipeR
In a small bowl, mix the remaining 2 tablespoons flour with 1 tablespoon water and stir to make a paste. If necessary, add more water 1 teaspoon at a time until the mixture is spreadable. Set aside. (This will help seal the enchiladas.)
Heat a small frying pan over medium heat. Working with one tortilla at a time, warm it in the pan until it’s soft and pliable, about 30 seconds. Lay the tortilla on a cutting board and top with 3 tablespoons of the jackfruit poule en sauce on the side of the tortilla closest to you. Top with 2 tablespoons of mozzarella. Roll the tortilla tightly, starting at the lled edge and rolling it until it’s fully closed (but with open ends). Spread some of the flour-water mixture on the open edge of the enchilada and press the tortilla closed to seal it. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.
Method: Make the jackfruit poule en sauce: In a medium bowl, whisk together the broth, parsley, tomato paste, lime juice, thyme, vinegar, minced garlic, garlic powder, onion powder, maple syrup, black pepper, turmeric, oregano, and Scotch bonnet pepper and season with salt. Set the sauce aside.
www.worldfoodlife.uk49
MAGIC BRICKS BANGLADESH Magic Bricks Bangladesh is a property development and real estate business based in Dhaka. As a modern and new generation of Real Estate businesses, it is trying to buy & sell and find credible property development partners for Non-Resident Bangladeshis (NRBs) living and working outside of WeBangladesh.wanttohear from you if you have Bangladesh government-approved residential land in Dhaka Purbachal, Bashundhora and Eastern Housing and are interested in property development. Subject to verification and mutual agreements, Magic Bricks Bangladesh will offer its services for a fixed Wouldfee. you please send your request with details by email only as of the first point of contact? Then the Magic Bricks Bangladesh team will be happy to offer consultation meetings by phone, Zoom or in person. Our email for you to send your initial request: magicbricksbd@gmail.com UniSoft Solutions Ltd. Level One, 46 Hanbury Street, London E1 5JL ,Phone: 020 7377 2627 Email: info@unisoftsolutions.co.uk * Subject to Terms @ Conditions Special Offer £3000 worth of SoftwareFree* We have been providing EPOS system for restaurants, takeaways and cafes for over two decades. Our systems are designed to be user friendly. Less commission Less Hassle More benefit Have your own integrated ONLINE ORDERING SYSTEM +44 7956 588 777 Want to advertise in page? Call us thisnow Social Media & Marketing Executive (Part-Time) Simply Social is a London based dedicated Social Media Marketing Agency is for British Curry Houses, otherwise known as the Indian, Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Sri Lankan and Nepalese restaurants across Britain. We are looking for an enthusiastic Social Media & Marketing Executive with creativity and vision to ensure copy and images engage and inspire our customers. The role is to develop the restaurant brands and communications through various social media platforms, including Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. Simply Social will offer attractive pay to the right candidate with a proven track record and willing to spend at least 10 or 12 hours a week for this office-based position. Please send your CV with details: tipu.unisoft@gmail.com www.worldfoodlife.uk 50
AVAILABLE IN 330ml & BOTTLES660mlANDONDRAUGHT Call your Cobra Sales Manager or Head Office on 0207 788 2880 to find out more.
You could see an additional 3,000 orders per year when you partner with us. Our customer base is incredibly loyal, with 58% only ordering from Just Eat. Your sign up perks: - Free setup & equipment including printer - Access to Just Eat’s Partner Center - allowing you to view sales, insights, invoices, menus and more! - Free professional food photoshoot worth £350 - Exclusive discountspartnershipincluding up to 7% cashback at Booker and Makro Our marketing know-how and your great cooking, it’s the perfect recipe... like a tikka masala! Join now Join Just Eat today and we’ll deliver
