cookbook

Flavors from the Middle East Recipes Curated by Saveur Editors

Master Middle Eastern recipes from Egypt to Iran,and everywhere in between.

2 •

Levantine dish Kibbeh ( ‫)كبة‬ • 3

Palestinian dish Musakhan ( ‫) مسخن‬

Maghrebi dish Shakshouka ( ٌ ‫ش ْكش ُوكَة‬ َ ) 4 •

Flavors from the Middle East Recipes Curated by Saveur Editors

Master Middle Eastern recipes from Egypt to Iran,and everywhere in between.

• 5

Introduction to Middle Eastern Cuisine P. 9

History & Influences P. 10

Dining Etiquette P. 13

1. Dips P. 16 2. Rice P. # 3. Vegetable P. # 4. Meat P. #

Acknowledgment P. 220

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8 •

Introduction to Middle Eastern Cuisine Middle Eastern cuisine or West Asian cuisine includes Arab, Armenian, Assyrian, Azerbaijani, Cypriot, Georgian, Iranian, Israeli, Kurdish, Lebanese, and Turkish cuisines. While Middle Eastern food encompasses a variety of cuisines, it’s generally characterized by fragrant and copious spices, nuts, olive oil, and creamy elements.

Mutton, lamb, and goat are traditional meats. Chicken, camel, beef, fish, and pork are also used, but less frequently.

Common ingredients include olives and olive oil, pitas, sesame seeds, dates,sumac, chickpeas, mint, rice and parsley, and popular dishes include kebabs, dolmas, falafel, baklava, yogurt, doner kebab, shawarma and mulukhiyah.

Early civilizations in the Middle East paved the way for modern farming and cooking. This area of the world was among the first to keep farm animals and cultivate plants, including wheat, sheep, goats, and cattle. Middle Easterners also developed the process of fermentation, which has permeated worldwide cultures to leaven bread, make alcohol, and create unique flavors.

As a result of its unique location between Europe, Asia, and Africa, the Middle East became a hub for the exchange of goods and culture as international trade expanded through the ages. Spices, ingredients, and new dishes were all exchanged, shaping the food of the Middle East areas alike.

Local ingredients and religion have also played key roles in shaping the food in the region. Dates, fava beans, chickpeas, and barley are staples as locally sourced ingredients, while lamb and mutton became the predominant meat as a result of religious laws .

Religious practices in the area also paved the way for a worldwide staple: coffee.

The stimulating drink was brewed to help people stay awake for evening worships, particularly during Ramadan.

INTRODUCTION TO MIDDLE EASTERN CUISINE • 9

History & Influences The Middle East incorporates the Fertile Crescent, including Mesopotamia (Sumer, Akkad, Assyria and Babylonia) where wheat was first cultivated, followed by rye, barley, lentils, beans, pistachios, figs, pomegranates, dates and other regional staples..The domestication of sheep, goats and cattle took place in the region as well. Fermentation was also discovered there, in order to leaven bread and make beer in Mesopotamia and the Levant. Additionally, the earliest written recipes come from that region.

As a crossroad between Europe, Asia, the Caucasus and North Africa, it has been a hub of food and recipe exchange. During the first Persian Empire (ca. 550–330 BCE), the foundation was laid for modern Middle-Eastern food when rice, poultry and fruits were incorporated into the local diet. Figs, dates and nuts were brought by merchants to conquered lands, and spices were brought from the Orient.

The region was also influenced by dumplings from Mongol invaders; turmeric and other spices from India; cloves, peppercorns and allspice from the Spice Islands; okra from Africa, and tomatoes from the New World.

Religion has impacted the cuisine by making lamb the primary meat since both Jews and Muslims do not eat pork.

The Qur'an forbids alcohol consumption, which is why non-Islamic countries produce & export alcohol. Prime example would be wine made in Lebanon, in vineyards such as Château Ksara, Chateau Kefraya and Chateau Masaya which have gained international recognition. Château Ksara is also known for its arak ksarak. Al-Maza is Lebanon's primary brewery, and once it was the Middle East's only beer producer.

Before the 1979 change of regime, Iran was noted for its wine production.

Under the Ottoman Empire, sweet pastries of paper-thin phyllo dough and thick coffee were brought and introduced to the region.

10 • HISTORY & INFLUENCES

Dining Etiquettes Arab countries

In some Arab countries, especially in the Persian Gulf region, it is common for diners to take their food from a communal plate in the center of the table. They traditionally do not use forks or spoons; instead they scoop up the food with pita or a thumb and two fingers.

In Arabic culture, the left hand is considered unclean and even left-handed people eat with the right hand. A common exception, however, is that the left hand may hold a drinking glass when eating greasy food with the right.

It is proper etiquette to compliment the host on their food and hospitality, and to try every plate on the table. If a guest does not leave food on his plate, the host generally fills it immediately.

Ramadan

During Ramadan, food consumption increases dramatically in Muslim communities. Breaking the daily sunrise-to-sunset fast is a banquet with family and friends whereas public banquets are held by charities and other associations.

Cafes and pastry shops are open at night, and the streets have a carnival atmosphere. Many Muslims, following Muhammad's reported example, break their fast with a date followed by a variety of dishes. Sweet pastries and puddings are always present on Ramadan nights.

The end of Ramadan is marked by Eid al-Fitr, featuring a great quantity and variety of sweets and pastries.

The other major Muslim feast is the four-day Eid al-Adha, the Feast of the Sacrifice, which occurs during Dhu al-Hijjah (the pilgrimage month). An animal (usually a sheep or goat) is slaughtered in every household that can afford it, great banquets are prepared, and food is given to the poor.

12 • DINING ETIQUETTES

Turkey

Tea is usually served in curved glasses which are held by the lip to which water may be added. A cup of tea may be refilled if it is less than half full. An honored guest is expected to make a toast, usually soon after the host does or at the end of the meal.

Forks, spoons and knives are used. Sometimes, the knife is held in the right hand and the fork in the left, presenting the British-style. Smoking may acceptable between courses of a dinner.

In formal situations and with more traditionalist company, the hosts sit at the head of the table, with the honored guest next to them on the side of the table which is farthest from the door.

The honored guest is served first, and then it's customary to serve from elder guests to younger, with a bias in favour of men. Diners do not begin eating until the oldest person at the table begins eating.

• 13

Iran

Iranian dishes and foods are known for being rice-based and Iran has been popular for its wide rice production. Dishes are typically served as savory or sweet, rather than in courses.

In traditional Iranian restaurants, a large, low table lined with Persian rugs and with cushions around the sides is the setting for a meal. Diners sit cross-legged in a circle and food is served in the center (eaten with cutlery on separate plates). Tea is served in kamar baareek ("narrow-waist") glasses with sugar and Persian sweets.

When entertaining dinner guests at home, it is seen as discourteous to serve just enough food, so food is prepared in large quantities. An important Persian practice is taarof (ritual politeness) where if a person is offered food or drink, they will initially politely decline. Only after the host has offered repeatedly, it is accepted and that is to avoid appearing greedy.

14 •

Persian rice dish Kateh ( ‫) کته‬

DINING ETIQUETTES • 15

1. Dips • Hummus Maushaush • Mutabbal Shamandar • Baba Ghannouj • Fattet Hummus

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Hummus Mashaushe (Galilean-Style Hummus)

‫حمص مشوشه‬

Generous spice, a good dose of olive oil, and chickpeas piled high are the hallmarks of this Galilean-style hummus. This recipe first appeared in our May 2013 issue with Gabriella Gershenson’s article The Promised Land.

Ingredients

Instructions

1 1⁄2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight; drained

Bring chickpeas and 4 cups water to a boil in a 4-qt. saucepan.

1⁄2 cup tahini 3⁄4 cup olive oil, plus more

Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, covered, until chickpeas are very tender, 1-1 1⁄2 hours.

Drain the chickpeas, reserving 1⁄2 cup cooking liquid; cool to room temperature.

1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. ground cumin 2 cloves garlic, peeled 1 small red Thai chile, stemmed and seeded Kosher salt, to taste

18 • DIPS

Transfer all but 3⁄4 cup chickpeas to a food processor with the tahini, oil, juice, cumin, garlic, chile, and salt; purée until smooth.

Add reserved cooking liquid and continue to purée until airy in consistency, about 5 minutes.

Transfer hummus to a serving dish.

Top with remaining whole chickpeas, drizzle with more oil, and sprinkle with salt.

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20 •

Mutabbal Shamandar (Tahini-Beet Dip)

‫متبل شمندر‬

Nutty sesame paste lends its rich texture and fragrance to vibrant beets in this bright red dip from Egyptian American cookbook author Suzanne Zeidy. Use the rest of that jar of tahini in our most opulent dips, roasted vegetables, and salads. The sweetness in beets peak late summer through early fall, and their versatility extends in all kinds of dishes from salads, to meatballs, to classic soups.

Ingredients

Instructions

1 lb. beets, trimmed

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil.

1⁄2 cup tahini

Add the beets and cook until very tender, about 1 hour.

3 tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Drain and peel the beets, discarding the cooking liquid.

2 garlic cloves

Transfer to a blender along with the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, and ice cubes.

3 ice cubes

Season with salt and pepper and puree until very smooth.

Kosher salt, to taste

Spoon into a shallow serving bowl.

Black peppert, to taste

Drizzle with olive oil, garnish with pine nuts, and serve with Egyptian flatbread or pita, for scooping.

1tbsp. olive oil for garnish 1 tbsp. toasted pine nuts for garnish

DIPS • 21

Baba Ghannouj (Mashed Eggplant Dip)

‫بابا قنوج‬

Across the Levant, eggplants are grilled and mashed to make baba ghannouj, a silky, delicious dip for flatbreads and vegetables. Charring the skin of the eggplant imbues the pulp with a smoky flavor, while incorporating full-fat Greek yogurt accentuates the dip’s sumptuous texture and tartness. This version, from chef Fouad Kassab’s family in Ain el Delb, Lebanon, is topped with fresh mint and a shower of ruby-red pomegranate seeds. It first appeared in our October 2014 issue with the story Home for the Harvest.

Ingredients

Instructions

2 lb. eggplants, halved lengthwise

Heat oven broiler. Place eggplant cut side down on a baking sheet; prick all over with a knife. Broil, flipping once, until skin is charred and eggplant is tender, 20–25 minutes.

1⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice 3 tbsp. tahini

Transfer eggplant to a colander set over a bowl; cover with plastic wrap.

Let cool; peel.

2 cloves garlic, minced Place lemon juice, tahini, and garlic in a food processor; let sit 10 minutes.

1 cup plain, full-fat yogurt Kosher salt, to taste

Add reserved eggplant, the yogurt, salt, and pepper; pulse until slightly smooth and transfer to a shallow dish.

Black peppert, to taste

Using a spoon, make a well on the surface; drizzle with oil.

1⁄4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Garnish with pomegranate seeds and parsley.

1⁄4 cup pomegranate seeds Parsley leaves for garnish

22 • DIPS

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24 •

Fattet Hummums

(Chickpeas with Pita and Spiced Yogurt)

‫فتت هوموس‬

Across the Levant, you will find variations on fatteh, dishes built on toasted or fried day-old bread. The term comes from the Arabic word “fatta”, meaning to crumble bread. In this Lebanese version from chef Fouad Kassab’s mother Isabelle, brown butter tops a layered dish of baked pita and chickpeas tossed with spiced yogurt. To save time, soak the chickpeas in water and baking soda: the alkalinity of the soda breaks down the beans’ cellular walls and reduces the cooking time. This recipe first appeared in our October 2014 issue with the story Home for the Harvest.

Ingredients

Instructions

1 1⁄2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight with 1 tsp. baking powder, then drained, or two (16-oz.) cans chickpeas, drained

If using dried chickpeas, boil them in water in an 8-qt. saucepan until very tender, about 30 minutes.

2 (8″) pita breads, torn into 1″ pieces 1⁄2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Heat oven to 400°. Toss pita with 1⁄3 cup oil, salt, and pepper on a baking sheet; spread into an even layer.

Drain it, transfer to a shallow dish.

Bake until golden and crisp, 8–10 minutes.

Kosher salt, to taste Let cool slightly and toss with chickpeas.

Black peppert, to taste Heat remaining oil in an 8″ skillet over medium-high.

3⁄4 cup pine nuts Cook pine nuts until golden, 4–5 minutes; set aside.

1 cup plain, full-fat yogurt Stir yogurt, mint, paprika, garlic, salt, and pepper in a bowl.

3 tbsp. minced mint Drizzle over pita mixture.

1⁄4 tsp. paprika Top with pine nuts, drizzle with brown butter.

2 cloves garlic, minced 3 tbsp. unsalted butter, browned

DIPS • 25

Acknowledgments Who we are

SAVEUR is an online gourmet, food, wine, and travel magazine that specializes in essays about various world cuisines. Its slogan—Savor a World of Authentic Cuisine—signals the publication's focus on enduring culinary traditions, as opposed to ephemeral food trends. Celebrated for its distinctive, naturalistic style of food photography and vivid writing, Saveur has been notable for placing food in its cultural context, and the magazine's popularity has coincided with a growing interest among American readers in the stories behind the way the world eats. The publication was co-founded by Dorothy Kalins, Michael Grossman, Christopher Hirsheimer, and Colman Andrews, who was also the editor-in-chief from 1996 to 2001. It was started by Meigher Communications in 1994. World Publications bought Saveur and Garden Design in 2000.World Publications was renamed Bonnier Corporation in 2007.A popular feature is the "SAVEUR 100", an annual list of "favorite restaurants, food, drink, people, places and things".

Story Submissions

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220 • ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

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A celebration of the food & flavours from the Middle East region, with Saveur's curated modern & accessible recipes.

Present day Middle Eastern cuisine goes well beyond the kebab. Grains, beans, proteins, vegetables and herbs are brought to life with bright, snappy flavours . Get inspired by these Middle Eastern flavours and ingredients to help your menu stand out.

Bon appétit !

! ‫حمص مشوشه‬

ISBN 0-321-65432-1

9 876543

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