Knife&Fork: Spring/summer 2015

Grill it now: Pineapple for margaritas

Stocked and loaded: Robust picnic ’wiches

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

What we’re eating right now!

Sweet talk

Why riesling gets a bad rap— but shouldn’t Newcomer Tristan Wraight 9 juicy burgers

Custom cocktails?

Sure, you can ask...

Taste is everything.

Eaters’

delights 1 2 food fête s {PAGE 46 }

The judging of Lampo A birthday for Splendora’s

Out of their shells Eggs aren’t just for breakfast anymore

Coming this spring...

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6 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

C O M PA N Y

THE NUMBER OF “EGG” PUNS (EGGCELLENT, EGGSTRAORDINARY, EGG CETERA) IN THIS ISSUE. (WE THINK THAT SHOWS A LOT OF RESTRAINT!) {PAGE 54}

RIESLING LOST LUSTER UNTIL THE DISCO ERA, WHEN DEMAND KICKED UP AGAIN. {PAGE 71}

C O N T E N T S

B Y

LBS

THAT’S HOW HOT THE OVEN IS AT LAMPO, WHERE YOU’LL FIND AUTHENTIC NEAPOLITAN PIZZA. {P.41}

T H E

N U M B E R S

THAT’S HOW MUCH EGG SALAD IS MADE AT BODO’S THREE LOCATIONS EACH WEEK. {PAGE 67}

COOK AT THIS TEMP (OR BELOW!) FOR A RARE STEAK. {P.15}

ON THE COVER: Chef Harrison Keevil tops the chicken and waffles at Brookville Restaurant with a farm fresh egg. Talk about keeping your sunny side up! Photograph by Ron Rammelkamp, Rammelkamp Foto, rammelkampfoto.com.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 7

om

Charlottesville’s News & Arts Weekly 308 E. Main St. Charlottesville, VA 22902 (434) 817-2749 Advertising/Editorial Fax: (434) 817-2758

www.c-ville.com Facebook: facebook.com/cville.weekly Instagram: @cvilleweekly

Editorial EDITOR

Courteney Stuart (x20) editor@c-ville.com NEWS EDITOR

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Caite White (x45) EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

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Design and Production CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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Advertising

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434.296.8555 | 317 EAST MAIN STREET, CHARLOTTESVILLE VA

KNIFE & FORK, a supplement to C-VILLE Weekly, is distributed regionally. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. ©2015 C-VILLE Weekly.

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The Dish

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Garnish respect Grilled pineapple is just the start of a delish backyard barbecue Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 13

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Release of the 2014 V2 wine Saturday, July 4th

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14 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

A hot topic

The Dish

Downtown Grille’s Sam Rochester serves up grilling tips

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

I

t’s backyard barbecue season.

But before you fire up the grill, it’s important to be prepared.

Sam Rochester, executive chef at Downtown Grille, offers this advice for grilling restaurant-worthy food at home.

First, know your grill. “Propane is fast and easy, and gives food a more crisp finish,” he says. However, charcoal grills give food a deeper, grilled flavor. And there’s the telltale aroma, of course. “You turn on your charcoal grill and the whole neighborhood knows you’re grilling.”

Next, Rochester advises having three items on hand: a small, flat pan, a meat thermometer (“You don’t want to get anyone sick.”) and a good pair of tongs.

“Your tongs should be like another set of fingers—they should be that comfortable,” he says. “You should be able to pick up food with them effortlessly.”

While some home cooks are taught that food should marinate for hours before grilling, Rochester says not to marinate an item for more than 25 minutes. Marinades are high in acid, which can cook the food and change the flavor.

When you’re ready to begin, Rochester says to have your ingredients grillside. “If you forget something and have to leave, all of a sudden you’re going to have flames rising out of the grill,” he warns.

Next, start the grill hot and adjust the temperature as desired. Using the meat thermometer to check for doneness, cook meat, poultry and fish according to these guidelines: “Rare is 110 to 115 degrees or below, medium rare is 120 to 130, medium is 135 to 145, medium well is 150 to 155, and well done is 165 and above,” he says. Pay special attention to temperature

Heat ways Rare 110 to 115 degrees or below Medium rare 120 to 130 degrees Medium 135 to 145 degrees Medium well 150 to 155 degrees Well done 165 degrees and up

when grilling delicate items, such as fish, he advises. “It gets more delicate as it cooks,” he says.

With any item you’re concerned about overcooking, “It’s important to have an exit strategy,” Rochester says. This is where the small pan comes in.

While a lot of people grill until the food is done, often it’s better to cook food on the grill until threequarters done and place it on a pan to finish it. “A small pan gives you the flexibility to move items off the direct heat while still keeping them warm,” says Rochester. You can also use the grill rack, a feature of many grills, to let the food rest until you’re ready to serve it.

And don’t be afraid to grill something besides meat. “I love grilling pineapple for margaritas. Or you can grill tomatoes, celery and onions, pop them in a blender and you’ve got a great bloody mary.”

Above all, successful grilling begins with quality ingredients. Says Rochester, “You can’t grill bad food and hope it comes out good.”— Jennifer Senator

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 15

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16 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Photo by Paul Whicheloe

Free parking in all Main Street Market Lots

Now Serving Lunch

Fill your grill

Sam Rochester’s grilled pineapple margarita (Page 13)

The Dish

*To make simple syrup, combine equal parts sugar and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil; simmer until the sugar is dissolved, and the syrup starts to thicken.

Remove from the heat and let cool completely. To add extra flavor, color and zest to your drinks, put some diced pineapple or grilled jalapeños in the syrup as it cooks. The syrup can be refrigerated in a glass jar for up to one month.

Bone-in pork chops at JM Stock Provisions (right) Skip the marinade and season with salt 45 minutes to an hour before searing these thicker-than-usual chops (cut 1.25-1.5 inches) over direct heat for two to three minutes per side, says owner James Lum. He also suggests trimming some of the fat before cooking to avoid flare-ups on the grill.

“These trimmings are great to use in the pan for sautéed veggies, or the classic cookout side, baked beans,” he says. To get a delicate crust on the fat, Lum says to use tongs to continually move the chops around the grill until both sides have a nice sear. Next, move them to indirect heat and

apply a glaze of lemon zest, lemon juice, black pepper, crushed red chili and olive oil to both sides while they finish cooking. Remove once the center has reached 130

degrees, and let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Spring Gate Farm goat kabobs, available at Foods of All Nations and Croftburn Market in Culpeper (above) To grill the leanest of all red meats (a six-ounce serving has just 5.2 grams of fat), Jane McKinney, owner of Spring Gate Farm in Barboursville, suggests first rolling the meat in a mixture of olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and chopped chives, cilantro and parsley. “Add a dash of paprika and cardamom and refrigerate the meat for several hours,” she says, “then place the meat onto metal skewers and place on the grill.

ANDREA HUBBELL

Grill the halved limes, lemons and pineapple over high heat, cut side down, until lightly charred and juicy (about five minutes). Transfer to a plate to cool. Juice the limes and lemons into a cup. You should have about four ounces of each juice.

Using a lime wedge, moisten half of the outer rim of six rocks or margarita glasses and coat lightly with salt, then fill each glass with ice. Fill a pitcher with ice and add the tequila, simple syrup and the lime and lemon juices.

Stir well and strain into the prepared glasses.

ANDREA HUBBELL

3 limes, halved crosswise; 3 lemons, halved crosswise; Kosher salt; ice; 12 oz. silver tequila; 4 1/2 oz. simple syrup*; 6 pineapple slices

CONTINUED ON PAGE 19

Winter 2015

Here come the brides!

Seasons of love A year’s worth of beautiful weddings

This magic

moment Tipping points

Great picks

ON STANDS NOW!

One bride’s big-day blooms

A surprise lakeside proposal Knife&Fork 17 Spring/Summer Cozy wedding

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18 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Traditional Homestyle Diner Fare!

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The Dish CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17

Cold comforts

Grill at a high temperature for seven minutes, turning the skewers until the meat is browned.”

Polyface Farms’ chicken thighs at Rebecca’s Natural Foods “Keep the skin on, brine for a few hours and add a basic dry rub, like Paleo Powder seasoning, an hour or so before grilling,” says Bill Calvani, store co-manager and grocery buyer at Rebecca’s Natural Foods. Once the thighs hit the grill, “turn them as little as possible” and apply barbecue sauce with a brush every 15-20 minutes. Calvani recommends Wahoo Q’s Sweet n’ Spicy sauce, which is locally made and organic. All products are available at Rebecca’s.

Alaskan salmon at Seafood @ West Main “The simplest preparation is best,” says owner Chris Arseneault. “Rub it with olive oil, maybe some sea salt and pepper and don’t overcook it.

Turn it just once; when it easily flakes with a fork, it’s done. Add rosemary or thyme from the garden after it’s finished.”

Lamb chops from Cestari Sheep & Wool Company at Foods of All Nations “We’re Italian, so we like to rub them with garlic and basil, with a little balsamic vinegar before we grill them,” says Francis Chester, owner of this Churchville sheep farm. He advises grilling the chops 10 minutes on each side, until medium.

“Rare to medium is best for lamb chops—you don’t want to overcook them,” he says.—J.S.

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

Shiitake mushrooms from North Cove Mushrooms, at Charlottesville City Market “Brush them with Soy Vay Teriyaki sauce, or barbecue sauce, or soak them in a balsamic vinaigrette before grilling two to five minutes per side,” says Robin Serne, owner of North Cove Mushrooms. Rebrush with marinade when you turn them, she says, and grill until mushrooms are “a nice dark golden brown color, not quite burned.” She suggests slicing the mushrooms for roasted veggie sandwiches, or serving on focaccia with tomatoes.

Summer staple: a filled-to-the-brim (and beyond!) cone from Kirt’s.

What’s a dessert lover gotta do to get some straight up, full-fat ice cream* when fro-yo is as ubiquitous as Starbucks? Head to one of these local spots for homemade creamy goodness, that’s what.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 19

The Dish

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 19

Chap’s 223 E. Main St., Downtown Mall, 977-4139 Take your pick from more than 20 flavors (recommended: classic butter pecan), then grab a seat at one of the diner’s turquoise booths. Put a quarter in the jukebox if you’re feeling nostalgic.

Kirt’s Homemade Ice Cream The ice cream’s made in-house and is customizable with a variety of topping combinations, but we’re nuts about the Frodo: an ice cream sammy made from a halved Carpe donut.

Ben & Jerry’s Barracks Road Shopping Center, 244-7438 All your favorite pints (including hard-to-find Milk & Cookies) right before your eyes. Stop in on April 14 for Free Cone Day to celebrate the company’s opening in 1978.

Chandler’s 921 River Rd., 923-8349 An old-school treat in an unlikely spot by the Tractor Supply store, Chandler’s soft-serve is a Charlottesville staple. You can’t go wrong with timeless chocolate.

Bring cash! *In case anyone doubted it, we’re also pro-yo.

CRAMER PHOTO

Albemarle Square, 202-0306

What’s the scoop?

I

n the five years since she’s owned the shop, PK Ross has made quite a few changes to Splendora’s—most notably by adding a whole host of flavors to the repertoire. We caught up with her ahead of Splendy’s fifth birthday (June 24!) to chat about some of the biggest gaffes, greatest successes and what’s up next for the Downtown Mall gelateria.—Caite White Personal favorite flavor: “Chocolate or chocolate/strawberry/ vanilla.”

Customers’ favorite flavor: “In terms of volume, chocolate. The industry standard is for vanilla to be most popular, so that’s pretty nifty for us. In terms of most vocal fans, the pistachio or the salted caramel. But we make chocolate,

cookies and cream, raspberry sorbet and mango sorbet the most often.”

Most creative flavor: “I was mucking about with cheese flavors. Goat Cheese Honey Fig is super popular and a lot of people really responded to Gorgonzola dolce with wine-poached pears.

Surprised the hell out of me that it sold. The herb things I do seem to take people aback, like rose geranium black pepper.”

Disaster flavor: “Sriracha peanut butter. Funny thing about the Sriracha is the longer it was exposed to the air, the hotter and more garlicky it became. There was no hope for it. I could try again by roasting peanuts in Sriracha, but I’m not sure.”

Favorite summer ingredient: “Peaches. I did not know peaches came from trees until college, so they’re a little magical to me.”

Splendora’s raspberry gelato

they had at Lampo, so I want to do some honey infusions.”

New flavors on the horizon: “I’ve been knocking around some beer combinations with South Street [Brewery] and other breweries. Someone told me about the scorpion pepper-infused honey

Where do you get your inspiration? “Eating, and other people telling me things. Mostly the things I eat and drink around town strike a chord. Or people will have been excited by a flavor they had elsewhere and will tell me about it. The chili mango was from a martini at Zocalo, and my sister was the one who told me to make a goat cheese flavor. I used to sit at Commonwealth [Restaurant & Skybar] and chat with Nick Crutchfield; he was a great guy to talk shop with because he ate a lot of gelato and had flavor profiles in his head from mixology.

And vendors! Smelling all the jars at The Spice Diva is rad, and Michael [Clark] from Planet Earth Diversified always gives me great herb and pepper ideas at the City Market.”

Local ingredient source: “The City Market—Hungry Hill Honey, Agriberry, Planet Earth Diversified, Caromont Farm. Also Chiles Peach Orchard and Henley Orchard. And I’ll probably extend the list to breweries since my beerlato guinea pigs have seemed to enjoy the flavors I’ve trialed so far.”

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 21

Fresh produce, herbs, plants, grass fed meats, crafts, and baked goods all from local vendors!

CITY MARKET

(Downtown - Corner of Water Street and 2nd Street)

April - October Saturdays 7:00a.m. - 12:00p.m.

November - December Saturdays 8:00a.m. - 1:00p.m.

FARMERS IN THE PARK

(corner of Chesapeake Street and Meade Avenue)

June - September Wednesdays 3:00p.m. - 7:00p.m.

More Information At:

charlottesville.org/citymarket Media Partner

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22 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

The Dish

’Wich ways Whether you’re slicing up a fresh tomato to anoint your BLT or asking for extra arugula at the lunch counter, it’s definitely sammy season. We recommend taking yours to go and enjoying it in the sunshine. Here are three of our picks that achieve picnic perfection.—Caite White

IvP Banh Mi (right) For meat lovers: roasted pork, pâté and ham join cabbage, cilantro, pickled veggies, mayo and chile oil on a warm baguette. (Ivy Provisions, 2206 Ivy Rd., 202-1308)

Olive Branch Roasted red peppers, olives and lettuce nestle between two slices of thyme bread spread with whipped feta. (C’ville Coffee, McIntire Plaza, 817-2633)

Ham, goat cheese and plum panini (below)

JOHN ROBINSON

ANDREA HUBBELL

Grilled focaccia sets the scene for rosemary-crusted ham, arugula and Caromont goat cheese. Plum chutney adds a bit of spice. (Feast!, Main Street Market, 244-7800)

THE COVENANT SCHOOL

www.covenantschool.org 434-220-7330

Three Decades. Two Campuses. One Covenant.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 23

Here’s the beef

Craving a burger? You might as well forget about accomplishing much until you’re satisfied. Here are nine great local options to sate your every juicy, cheesy whim.—Caite White

1

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The Dish EMILY SACCO

24 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Boylan Heights

rehearsaldinners dinners rehearsal

102 14th St. NW, 984-5707

Bring your napkins for The Varsity, a cheeseburger loaded with chili, onion rings, hot sauce and ranch dressing (among other things!).

beautiful cakes

beautiful cakes bridal luncheons

Citizen Burger Bar

Riverside Lunch 1429 Hazel St., 971-3546

Any burger from Riverside is perfection, but the double patty is tops when you’re feeling extra gluttonous—er, hungry.

7

Zinburger Wine & Burger Bar

thursday, april 9th the Jefferson theater Casual attire wine tasting & awards ceremony.

Limited tickets available.

speCial winery tours

friday, april 10th Winemaker dinners.

Barracks Road Shopping Center, 244-2604

The White Spot 1407 University Ave., 295-9899

No burger list is complete without a mention of the Gus—a classic American cheeseburger topped with a fried egg.

9

Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint 102 Second St. SE, 244-0073

Newcomer Jack Brown’s reinvents a classic with TheSponsored By: Greg Brady, a burger with Martin’s barbecue chips and mac’n’cheese.

saturday, april 11th ntelos wireless pavilion

Over 25 Wineries.

VIP tickets available.

SophisticatedSoirees.fp.1212.indd 1

event planning

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wine tasting event

eat drink private events “at-home” intimate dinners be fabulous! yummy brunches

corporate meetings & luncheons

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The original Zinburger is piled high with manchego cheese, Zinfandel-braised onions, lettuce and mayo.

beautiful cakes

bridal luncheons

For more information:

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@TasteMonticello SophisticatedSoirees.fp.1212.indd 1

804.357.3093 2100 E. Cary St. • Richmond, VA 23223 sophisticatedsoirees.com 804.357.3093 • sophisticatedsoirees.com 2100andrea@sophisticatedsoirees.com E. Cary St. • Richmond, VA 23223 andrea@sophisticatedsoirees.com

rehearsal dinners

6

MontiCello Cup awards

wedding celebrations

wedding celebrations

Fried green tomatoes, goat cheese and cucumber salsa spill from the Hotlanta burger at Miller’s.

event planning rehearsal dinners

beautiful cakes

Downtown Mall, 971-8511

“at-home” intimate dinners

yummy brunches

Miller’s

Three Days of Celebrating the Best of Central Virginia Wines

private events

5

Charlottesville

“at-home” intimate dinners

We like our beef, but two patties is our limit at Martin’s, where even a four-patty option is available (and encouraged!).

APRIL 9-11

event planning

3449 Seminole Trail, 974-9955

eat drink fabulous!

Martin’s

be

4

*

With its bacon, egg and cheese toppings, you might as well have this burger for breakfast.

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1305 Long St., 295-7550

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Henry’s

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Timbercreek beef, McClure Swiss cheese and black onion shine on a house bun slathered in yummy garlic aioli.

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Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 25

The Dish

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relative newcomer to the Charlottesville food scene, Tristan Wraight opened Oakhart Social with his business partner (and childhood friend) Ben Clore in late 2014, after nearly five years of working toward the goal.

But Wraight’s no stranger to the kitchen—he started as a dishwasher at a bakery in high school and worked his way to sous chef at Parson’s Chicken & Fish in Chicago (with a bit of a detour to be a touring guitarist, before returning to cooking).

Since it opened, the midtown restaurant has been getting a lot of buzz for its inventive dishes and attentive service. What will he be making at Oakhart this spring?

“One thing I’m very excited about is a charred carrot dish that I’ve been playing with,” he said. And look forward to lardo, various sausages and duck yolks from Sylvanaqua Farms in Earlysville, which Wraight has been curing himself.—Caite White Always on the bar Cheap whiskey shot (Old Grand-Dad, Old Overholt rye, Jim Beam) with a pickle back.

Special occasion drink Nice bourbon with no pickle back. Any Pappy Van Winkle (20-year, of course), Four Roses small batch or Copper Fox limited edition rye.

Breakfast Black coffee.

AMANDA MAGLIONE

Lunch spot JM Stock Provision sandwich series is what I want to eat always.

Making a scene

26 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Sandwich A BLT with great bacon and summer tomato on grilled sourdough is king.

Unusual ingredient Morita chilis. They are smoked dried jalapeños, sort of like chipotles but with a much jammier, plummy taste.

Healthy snack Popcorn with nutritional yeast.

Vegetable Greens of any kind. Or baby white hakurei turnips.

Midnight snack Ice cream.

Knife Korin chef’s knife. The first thing I cut with it was my finger.

EMILY SACCO

Appliance I don’t have one and have never used one, but I really want a Searzall.

What will he be making at Oakhart this spring?

“One thing I’m very excited about is a charred carrot dish that I’ve been playing with.”

Mentors Hunter Moore (Parson’s Chicken & Fish in Chicago), Michael Sheerin (WD-50 in New York and Blackbird in Chicago) and my parents.

Dream trip Any beach with my wife.

Chocolate Kinder Bueno.

Dessert Ice cream. Any kind of ice cream.

Cooking clothes Jeans and a T-shirt.

Ice cream flavor Chocolate.

Kitchen shoes Super Birkis.

Beer PBR.

Cooking music The War on Drugs, Queens of the Stone Age, Band of Horses, Kendrick Lamar, Bob Dylan, Tame Impala, The Band.

Kitchen aroma Bacon cooking or mirepoix.

Always in the home fridge Ranch dressing...

Always in the pantry Dry pasta.

Bodo’s order Pastrami, red onion and mayo on a sesame seed bagel.

Condiments Mustard. Preferably Cracovia.

It’s Polish, very vinegary and hot.

Cut of meat Dry-aged ribeye.

Fish Hamachi and maybe whole fresh sardines?

LUNCH BRUNCH DINNER DOWNTOWN MALL

MERCI!

Cook book Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn.

Food city Seattle, Washington. So many great inventive cooks and such great produce and proteins. Seif Chirchi’s Revel and Rachel Yang’s Joule come to mind first.

Unhealthy snack Popcorn with nutritional yeast and butter.

FRENCH BISTRO

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ABERDEEN BARN Virginia’s finest steakhouse since 1965.

Roast Prime Rib • Charcoal Broiled Ribeye • The Porterhouse • Broiled Lobster Tail • Maryland Style Crab Cakes

Food-related tattoos I don’t have any food tattoos yet but if I did, it’d probably be a radish of some kind.

First food memory I ate a whole roast chicken when I was 5.

Best meal ever The Publican or Longman and Eagle in Chicago are definitely up there. I had the gnarliest glazed pork belly with orange at The Publican that I still dream about.

Egg order Soft boiled or poached and toast.

2018 Holiday Drive 434.296.4630 | www.aberdeenbarn.com Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 27

RESTAURANT & BAR

Located on Charlottesville’s Historic Downtown Mall

ALL THE NEWS THAT’S

CRAMER PHOTO

FIT TO EAT

Whether it’s with our online restaurant listings, or our weekly coverage of the local dining scene, C-VILLE’s always serving up a heaping helping of the best in local food. Get your fill every Wednesday in print or at c-ville.com/living, where the kitchen’s always open.

This is our town.

28 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

.com

The Dish

Shake things up

EMILY SACCO

Because the milkshake can pass as both beverage and dessert, it’s possibly the best way to cheat the system—not to mention it’s a summer staple. We like the Strawberry Cheesecake version from Zinburger Wine & Burger Bar: vanilla ice cream, strawberry, cream cheese and graham cracker, mixed to perfection and topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

It’s so good we won’t even worry about making slurping sounds when we reach the end.—Caite White

THAI CUISINE & NOODLE HOUSE

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Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 29

The Dish

Mind your BBQs

JOHN ROBINSON

The Barbeque Exchange

W

Here’re six local restaurants looking to make that happen.

The Barbeque Exchange Hartman comes from a fine dining background, so his restaurant offers some refined dishes on top of your barbecue staples. His favorite is the pork belly, a versatile cut that comes off the smoker like über-bacon. Whether it’s served cold as charcuterie, in pork belly bites or as a belly, lettuce and to-

mato sandwich, to Hartman it’s “one of the best cuts there is.”

Belmont Bar-B-Que Go for the ribs at Belmont BBQ. They’re big, meaty and saucy, but not fall-off-the-bone tender like at most places. That’s actually how ribs are supposed to be made, and Belmont owner Wes Wright should know; the native of Oklahoma’s been making barbecue the right way since he started serving it out of his smoke wagon in 2000.

ERIC KELLEY

hen it comes to barbecue, could Virginia ever be on the level of Texas or Kansas? The Barbeque Exchange’s Craig Hartman thinks so.

“Virginia was once the epicenter, and when people moved away they did barbecue,” Hartman says.

“The first written advertisements in Texas, Kansas, Oklahoma, North Carolina, they all said come to Virginia for barbecue. There’s no reason Virginia can’t re-establish itself.”

Craig Hartman

“Grilling, broiling, barbecuing—whatever you want to call it—is an art, not just a matter of building a pyre and throwing on a piece of meat as a sacrifice to the gods of the stomach.” JAMES BEARD 30 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Hoo’s BBQ When Hoo’s owner Stephanie Parsons got the opportunity to open her own ’cue restaurant, she knew she wanted to do everything fresh and homemade. To get a taste of all the roadside joint has to offer, order The Pit-Master, a bowl layered with macaroni and cheese, beans, pulled pork, sauce and coleslaw.

Jinx’s Pit’s Top The barbecue at Jinx’s isn’t meant to be fussed over. Your choices are pulled pork and ribs, and you can only get ’em for lunch Wednesday to Sunday. Jinx Kern doesn’t like the term BBQ—“BBQ is abbreviated barbecue,” he said— and he doesn’t think you need sauce. You’d be advised to listen to him; the former art history

’Cue debate While Thomas Jefferson served as ambassador to France, he sent letters to James Madison discussing the preferred meat for Virginia barbecue.

Madison said smaller game better complemented smokey sauces. Jefferson preferred venison.

major said these days, “The art I do is pork, barbecued pork.”

PastureQ PastureQ started as a Southern small plates joint, so while owner Jason Alley’s love of slow-cooked pork translates well to barbecue, the restaurant has a few unique items that wink at its past. Try the fried catfish or pimento cheese and Ritz for some serious Deep South flavor.

Red Hub is all about classic barbecue—pulled pork, brisket and fried chicken paired with four traditional sauces. What brings the platters together is side dishes like hush puppies and housefried potato chips. “As long as we have a deep fryer, we’ll never serve chips out of a bag,” co-owner Ryan Hubbard says.—Shea Gibbs

NICK STROCCHIA

CRAMER PHOTO

Red Hub Food Co.

You won’t find “BBQ” on the menu at Jinx’s Pit’s Top. “That’s abbreviated barbecue,” says owner Jinx Kern (top).

Locally Inspired Seasonal American Cuisine

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32 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

The Dish

On occasion The serendipity of the savvy C’ville customer

I

’ve been asked by bar customers to make some pretty ridiculous drinks in my day—Sex with Alligators, a Duck Fart, a Sloe Comfortable Screw Up Against the Wall, a Cement Mixer, a Brain Hemorrhage, a Greene County Man Hammer. Most of them are not very good, and the people who order them are not shooting for the stars when it comes to a properly made cocktail—not that there’s anything wrong with that. Drink what you like, that’s what I say. However, when someone asks me to make a beverage I’ve never heard of before, many times I’ve simply rolled my eyes. Having bartended for over 15 years, I feel like I know a thing or two about what drinks are good and worth knowing about —and worth making. Make you a “Jamaican Lizard”? C’mon, dude.

Occasionally, though, I’ll be caught off guard: Instead of asking for Duck Farts, tipplers will make

EMILY SACCO

Having bartended for over 15 years, I feel like I know a thing or two about what drinks are good and worth knowing about—and worth making. a savvy request, asking for something new with Cynar, something spiritous and gin-based or something with herbs and Chartreuse.

They similarly ask me to make drinks that I’ve never heard of that are also well-balanced and delicious. This really rattles my cage.

How do I not know about the Bonsoni? The Bitter Giuseppe? The Knickerbocker? And The Improved CONTINUED ON PAGE 35

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 33

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 33

Smart glass How to politely ask a bartender for an off-menu cocktail

Micah LeMon is the bar manager at The Alley Light.

Brad Langdon, Public Fish & Oyster Cocktail: Big City Blues “I had a regular come in to my old bar all the time. He would usually just drink bourbon straight or a Manhattan, but it was Derby season so he was feeling a mint julep.

We came up with a fusion of the two cocktails: a mint julep/Manhattan hybrid with a touch of blueberry shrub. The end result was a surprisingly delicious concoction! From then on it would be his first cocktail of the night whenever he stopped in.”

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2 oz. Hudson Manhattan rye 1 oz. Carpano Antica 2 dashes Breckenridge bitters 8 large mint leaves 1/2 oz. blueberry shrub Muddle mint and blueberry shrub in a mixing glass. Combine remainder of ingredients. Stir with ice and strain up into a coupe.

Garnish with a Luxardo maraschino cherry.

EMILY SACCO

1. Ask your bartender if he has time to make you something off-menu. If he is in the weeds, please pick another time to ask.

2. Have a recipe ready, in case the bartender is unfamiliar with your requested beverage. If he is unfamiliar with your beverage, do not take that moment to gloat.

3. Have a backup beverage in mind in case he doesn’t have the ingredients/equipment to make your drink.

4. A bartender’s limited resource to making a living behind the bar is time. If he takes extra time to politely field your request and ensure your drink is made properly, be generous in equal measure.

5. Not all bars do fancy cocktails. Order cocktails at a bar that does cocktails, and don’t be judgy if they don’t.

Charlottesville's newest luxury apartment community

EMILY SACCO

Whiskey Cocktail? I’ve been mixing drinks most of my life, and there’s always more to learn.

This perfect storm of customer enlightenment is a confluence of several things, but it is largely due to the well-read, well-traveled, curious tipplers here in Charlottesville who are paying attention to the momentum of the craft cocktail movement nationwide. Increasingly, these consumers are dropping some knowledge on the beaks of local bartenders, themselves eager to augment their recipe book. their skill set and their ability to

The Dish

please their guests. I checked in with a few locals about the serendipity of learning and creating new bevs through savvy sippers.— Micah LeMon

Picante Paloma

Brianna Sumey, Red Pump Kitchen Cocktail: Picante Paloma “I’ve always appreciated a perfectly crafted margarita. It’s slightly sweet, tart and damn delicious. A fellow customer, Rich, shared that appreciation but we both wanted something lighter, something more refreshing. We opened the restaurant with a classic Paloma, and then collaborated on the drink below.

The flavors are really turned up on this one.”

1 1/2 oz. Tequila (100 percent agave blanco) 1/4 oz. Cointreau 1/2 oz. pink peppercorn syrup Pinch of Himalayan salt

Few sprigs of cilantro Squeeze of lime 3 oz. quality grapefruit soda Cayenne sugar salt rim

Peppercorn syrup Equal parts sugar and water 1/2 cup pink peppercorns

Cayenne rim 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 salt 1 tsp. cayenne Moisten the rim with lime and coat with the cayenne mixture. Fill glass with ice. Add tequila, Cointreau, salt, lime, peppercorn syrup.

Give a nice stir to chill. Top with grapefruit soda. A few pink peppercorns from the syrup for added color and texture.

COFFEE SANDWICHES PICNIC FARE 1330 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy Charlottesville, VA, 22902 434-270-2072 saltcville.com

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 35

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The Dish

Mobile friendly W

e’ve been following one trend faithfully for a few years—like, literally following it—from the City Market and Fridays After Five to Hydraulic Road and the Ix Art Park.

Whether it’s Australian hand pies or smoked pork barbecue, fresh donuts or cupcakes, Charlottesville’s food truck scene brings everything to eat, drink and satisfy your sweet tooth. Here are three of our recent favorites.

South Fork

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

“The view from our window is always changing,” says Phillip Gerringer. It was the variety that drew the South Fork owner to the food

Stop at South Fork (er, wait until it stops for you), where Hannah Lilley will greet you at the window.

South Fork’s Southern Fried Chicken Tenders

Gypsy Juice

DRUMZANDSPACE PHOTOGRAPHY

truck biz—the fact that he could be at a concert one day and a wedding the next. “It would allow me to be constantly evolving and adaptive to wherever I could drive the truck.

I knew it wouldn’t be boring.”

That goes for the menu, too. A stop here will leave you stuffed with South Fork’s twists on Southern classics, like the smoked jalapeño meatloaf sandwich with garlic mashed potatoes, or the Cheerwine-braised pork sandwich with arugula, chipotle barbecue, blue cheese and pickled red onions. Or, for that matter, Gerringer’s favorite: “It’s hard to beat the meatloaf, but I’m partial to the grilled pimento cheese sandwich with arugula and a fried green tomato.”

Gypsy Juice

You can find him setting up outside Champion Brewing Company on Thursday evenings, at Fridays After Five and at various events on Saturdays throughout the summer. southforkfoodtruck.com

You’ll often find owner KC Sperry selling her original juices from a booth at the City Market on Saturday mornings, but her rustic wagon, which she constructed from salvaged materials found on the historic farm where she lives, is unmistakable at festivals around the area, too. Sperry brings at least 10 varieties with her, from mint limeade to iced raspberry rose green tea (and grows many of the ingredients herself!), but it’s the sage peach lemonade that’s customers’ favorite. No wonder: Says Sperry, “All of our recipes are developed after many years of customer input!” gypsyjuice.co

The Flat Takeaway Crêperie In 2005, Lauren McRaven opened The Flat, a 10'x14' walk-up restaurant behind The Jefferson Theater.

Eight successful years (and countless crêpes) later, McRaven launched a Kickstarter campaign to open a mobile version—and take her crêpes and beignets on the road. The successful campaign yielded $10,439 —enough for a trailer. The Flat celebrates a 10th birthday this year.

We’re celebrating the only way we know how: banana and Nutella. facebook.com/theflat.downtown— Caite White

“It would allow me to be constantly evolving and adaptive to wherever I could drive the truck.

I knew it wouldn’t be boring,” said Phillip Gerringer.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 37

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38 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

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The Dish

In style These ain’t your grandma’s IPAs en beer is testament to its establishment on the local scene. The IPA features a rye spice that plays off the citrusy hop profile many American IPAs are known for.

Champion Brewing Company’s Habanero Missile IPA

Starr Hill Brewery’s Whiter Shade of Pale White IPA

Carved into the small industrial section of downtown, Champion is the quintessential modern beer tasting room. For a non-quintessential taste, try the Habanero Missile, a seriously hot version of the brewery’s flagship IPA. While the spiciness can vary from batch to batch, owner Hunter Smith says the big bite is by design. “If I say a beer is going to have a certain ingredient, I want it to really taste like that ingredient,” he says.

Lighter and crisper than traditional IPAs, the white version is a good place for craft beer newbies to start. Starr Hill’s Whiter Shade of Pale is a great example of the style, having won a gold medal at the 2014 World Beer Cup. See what all the fuss is about at Starr Hill’s tasting room, which got a pretty significant facelift in 2014, and is situated directly inside the brewery’s Crozet production facility and distribution center.

C’ville-ian Brewing Company’s C’Ville on the Rye’z IPA

Devils Backbone Brewing Company’s Catty Wompus Belgian IPA

C’ville-ian, a small brewhouse and tasting room located right on West Main Street, reinvented itself in late 2014 with a new brewmaster and tap list, and this gold-

Three Notch’d Brewing’s Zombie Killin’ Ale Black Rye Double IPA This macabre IPA is a mash-up of IPA styles, with some roasted malts (which make it black), a hard rye kick and a big hops and booze presence. “It is definitely a big beer,” Warwick says. Zombie Killin’ is only available on tap at the spare Three Notch’d tasting room on Preston Avenue, but the brewery began distributing a more traditional black IPA in March.

Devils Backbone, a lodgy joint at the base of Wintergreen Resort in Nelson County, has quickly become one of the country’s most

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

W

hat’s longer, the list of IPAs made by American craft breweries, or the span of every beard from every American brewmaster laid end to end? It’s a trick question, because both are still growing.

What’s with the beards is anyone’s guess, but Three Notch’d Brewing Company owner Dave Warwick says there’s good reason for the proliferation of India pale ales.

“IPA is the most versatile style of beer,” Warwick says. “I don’t think they’re going anywhere for a long time.”

If you think IPAs are just big, bitter monstrosities, check out these unique ales from seven local breweries.

decorated small breweries. Catty Wompus, which mingles the fruity esters of a Belgian yeast strain with hoppy bitterness, hasn’t won any awards yet, but it’s only a matter of time.

Blue Mountain Brewery’s A Hopwork Orange One of the cardinal rules of craft beer geeks is “never fruit your beer.” So let the brewery do it for you. This subtly orange IPA is the perfect beverage to enjoy while taking in the views from Blue

Mountain’s expansive, award-winning outdoor space.

Wild Wolf Brewing Company’s Exquisitely Evil Ale From the street, Wild Wolf looks like it’s out of a fairy tale, with its picaresque beer garden complete with water feature. Inside, things get more serious, and the beer’s what really matters. The brewery’s double IPA is lot like that, with honey and citrus notes disguising a bruiser of an ale made with obscene levels of hops.—Shea Gibbs

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 39

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The Dish Slide rules Don’t call it a pizza paddle!

This flat, shovel-like tool is called a “peel,” and it’s used to slide baked goods in and out of a hot oven.

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

Upper crust Lampo embraces its Neapolitan heritage Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 41

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The Dish

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

I

talians are serious about their pizza. So serious, in fact, that they even have an organization to certify whether something really is pizza. The Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (VPN) gives a special designation to restaurants meeting strict requirements that respect the tradition of Neapolitan pizza. According to the VPN, true Neapolitan pizza comes only from starting with specific ingredients and applying a precise, time-honored method. Admission standards are so rigorous that fewer than 90 restaurants in the country have achieved VPN status.

Charlottesville may soon have its first. Lampo, open since December, has begun the application process and is determined to see it through. Even without VPN status, Lampo has made a splash, with lines out the door every day and a group of young owners as talented as Charlottesville has seen. Chefs Loren Mendosa, Ian Redshaw and Mitchell Beerens have cooked at some of the area’s top restaurants, while Andrew Cole was the longtime beverage director at tavola, where the four worked together before launching Lampo.

In February, I checked on Lampo’s progress during a visit with VPN-certified master Ettore Rusciano, a Naples native whose Washington, D.C. pizzeria, Menomale, many pizza enthusiasts call the Mid-Atlantic’s best. Thanks in part to Rusciano, Lampo already had in place many of the elements necessary for VPN status, like the proper “00” flour for the dough, San Marzano tomatoes and an imported wood-burning pizza oven so massive it had to be lowered into the restaurant through the roof.

True VPN pizzas must be cooked at least 900 degrees Fahrenheit for no more than 90 seconds.

Rusciano was in town to train Lampo’s chefs in pizza preparation itself, and there’s no substitute for learning from a master. To be sure, Lampo’s pizza was already good,

Fewer than 90 restaurants in the country have achieved Vera Pizza Napoletana status, but Lampo co-owner Loren Mendosa is well on his way.

and Rusciano even said as much.

But, Rusciano’s lessons helped the chefs take it to another level, with the most striking difference being how light and airy the crust became when following Rusciano’s technique. “We are in a near constant state of study at Lampo,” said Beerens, “always looking for new ways to improve at our craft.”

Rusciano was glad to oblige with ways to improve—in virtually every detail, from the organization of the food station to how to stretch the dough. And this was not dogma for the sake of dogma.

For each piece of wisdom, Rusciano had an explanation. Why not lift the pizza when removing it from the oven? “The smoke can contaminate the taste,” warned Rusciano. Why not touch the dough after stretching it into a circle? It can create uneven crusts.

After a long morning of pizza school, we sat down for a lunch of antipasti and insalate that showcased the talents and passion of the kitchen. Cavolo nero, a salad the team first created at tavola, is

so delicious and well-balanced that it has had a cult following ever since: Tuscan kale, candied almonds, pickled mustard seeds and parsnips in apple cider vinaigrette.

Straciatella was at once refreshing and satisfying, with farro, torn pieces of bufala mozzarella, red onion, walnuts and tangy pomegranate seeds. “Very good,” Rusciano said of the meal. “Top-quality ingredients.”

But, as delicious as the chefs’ novel creations are, what stands out is their humility and passion in embracing a food firmly grounded in the past. Rusciano explained that the key to Neapolitan pizza is “staying true to the original method of preparation, which is hundreds of years old.” Conversely, the most common error, he said, is “trying to modernize the style and deviate from its heritage.” Indeed, VPN’s strict deference to heritage deters all but the most devoted traditionalists from even bothering to apply. In an era where chefs vie to create the next big thing, who on earth wants to bind themselves to age-old rigid rules?

The Lampo chefs do, that’s who.

They had no qualms about making the VPN’s required certification “to accept, respect and promote the tradition of the Neapolitan pizza strictly following the specification of the VPN.” And, as humbling as some chefs might take a full day of critique, the Lampo chefs eagerly sopped up the knowledge.

“They were the ideal students for this,” said Rusciano.

Of course, tradition is not for everyone. The trademark charred crust, which I find delicious, others have called “burnt.” And so many customers balked at being served pizzas unsliced, as is the custom in Naples, that the Lampo crew finally broke down and offered pizza scissors to anyone preferring sliced pizza.

So, how is Lampo coming along in the VPN process? “They are very passionate about making great—as opposed to good—Neapolitan pizza,” Rusciano said. Yeah, yeah. But are they going to be VPN-certified or not? “I am absolutely certain that they will qualify for VPN status,” said Rusciano.—Simon Davidson

“We are in a near constant state of study at Lampo,” said Mitchell Beerens, “always looking for new ways to improve at our craft.”

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 43

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EXECUTIVE CHEF B I LL S CAT EN A P I P P I NH I LLFARM.COM 434.204.8063

JUSTIN IDE

The Dish

Curtis Shaver Hamiltons’ at First & Main

Pickled Carolina shrimp with fried green tomatoes, green harissa and a pea shoot radish salad “Springtime is all about waking up from the winter and starting to use young, tender vegetables again. It’s about eating healthier and lighter. Radishes are one of my favorite vegetables to use.

I love their fresh and spicy flavors.

Pea shoots and their flowers are beautiful, and carry that fresh pea flavor when peas may not be quite ready yet.”

’Tis the season RAMMELKAMP FOTO

We asked two of Charlottesville’s best chefs—Curtis Shaver of Hamiltons’ at First & Main and Angelo Vangelopoulos of Ivy Inn (a 2015 James Beard Award nominee!)—to tell us what they’ve spent all winter dreaming of cooking in spring and summer, respectively.—Caite White

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 45

The Dish

Ready, set, EAT

’TIS THE SEASON

Mark your calendar—these spring and summer food events will fill you up.—Caite White

City Market Opens April 4, 7am-noon Every Saturday through October, head to the parking lot at the corner of Water and First streets to take in all the things that are great about Charlottesville: artisan goods, community and, of course, food.

Get there early to grab a taco! charlottesvillecitymarket.com

Tom Tom Festival April 18, 11:30am-4pm Main Street Arena (Downtown Mall)

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

Angelo Vangelopoulos Ivy Inn

JACKSON SMITH

Crispy feta with country-style tomato salad, Greek basil, cucumber, onion and olive oil “Hands down my favorite part of summer is the arrival of tomatoes. We have so many amazing farmers in our region that it’s easy to choose some great tomatoes for a traditional greek style salad (that’s right—no lettuce!) with red onion, cucumbers, basil and a little red vinegar and olive oil.

“We take a chunk of barrel-aged feta, bread and fry it crispy and serve it on top with grilled chunks of olive oil-soaked bread. It’s one of my favorite foods from my youth and I’ve upped the ante by frying the feta and serving it warm with the bounty of summertime.”

46 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Tom Tom Founders Festival hosts plenty of food-focused events (check out the Farm-to-Table Restaurant Week April 13-16), but we’re most excited about the chili cook-off. Your $10 ticket gets you samples of chili from home cooks and restaurant chefs alike. And what goes better with chili than beer? The event includes a blind local beer battle with area breweries competing for the title of People’s Choice Champion. tomtomfest.com

Montpelier Wine Festival

May 2 (11am-6pm)-May 3 (11am-5pm), Tickets $15 in advance, $25 at the gate; $5 for designated drivers and persons age 12-20; free for kids under 12 Specialty food vendors, live music and “cooking with wine” classes are just a few of the highlights at this annual fest held at the home of fourth president James Madison. montpelierwinefestival.com

Charlottesville Restaurant Week July 18-25 Everybody likes a deal. And a deal that benefits charity? Even better. Get a taste of more than 20 local restaurants at a discounted price point—three courses for $16, $26 or $36. One dollar of every meal goes to the Blue Ridge Area Food Bank, which works to alleviate hunger in Western and Central Virginia. charlottesville restaurantweek.com

Men Who Cook April 25, 6-11pm Fry’s Spring Beach Club (2512 Jefferson Park Ave.) $75 general admission (includes food and drink, but no guaranteed seating) or $400 reserved seating for four (includes wine/beer, bite size tasting from each chef and a reserved table for up to four guests) Fifty amateur chefs serve bite-sized dishes (plus wine and beer!) for the 28th annual event from the Monticello Area Community Action Agency, which serves low-income families in the Charlottesville area. macaa.org/ NewsandEvents/MenWhoCook

We’ve got class Want to develop some new skills in the kitchen (or brush up on the few you already have)? Try one of these local classes through cooking schools, wineries and inns in the area.

CHARLOTTESVILLE COOKING SCHOOL 2041 Barracks Rd., 963-2665 charlottesvillecookingschool.com Flavors of Thailand April 2 at 5:30pm, $75

This three-hour class, led by Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School graduate Ashley Brooks, will teach you to make your own green curry with mortar and pestle, as well as how to incorporate curry in other dishes like Thai hot and sour prawn soup, green mango salad or tropical skewers.

Spring in Virginia April 12 at 10:30am, $75 Spend three to four hours with CCS owner and instructor Martha Stafford as she guides you through preparing a seasonal meal of creamy asparagus soup; a spring salad with local lettuce and green garlic vinaigrette, light tender omelets filled with fresh herbs, spinach and Caromont goat cheese and made from local farm eggs; sautéed mushrooms with fresh herbs on an Albemarle Baking Company baguette and strawberry soufflé.

Italian Antipasto April 18 at 6pm, $75 Led by Soledad Liendo, this Italian appetizers class will prep you for your next dinner party—melanzane alla menta (eggplant with mint); pizza a la rucola (pizza with arugula and fresh tomatoes); cozze gratinate (mussels gratin) and apricot panna cotta with red berry sauce.

High Tea for Moms and Their Kids May 10 at 2pm, $75 for mother and child (age 7 and up) pair ($35 for each additional guest)

3164 Watts Passage Rd., 979-7105, wineandculinary.com Coq au Vin April 12, 11am-2pm, $68 Learn to prepare frilly root salad (by spiral-slicing beets!), parsleyed potatoes and Black Forest parfaits to accompany the classic French chicken dish.

• • • •

Wine and food-pairing advice available from expert staff.

Discounts starting at just six mixed bottles.

C’villes highest rated Craft Beer Store by Beer Advocate.

Special Orders welcome. • No hassle return policy. • Come Say Hi!

Ample on-site parking & centrally located in Charlottesville at 1804 Hydraulic Road and Route 29 (behind Meineke Muffler, in front of Kroger and across the street from Whole Foods.)

Hours: Mon.-Sat. 9:30-7:30, Sun. 12:30-5:30.

1804 Hydraulic Road • Follow us on Facebook, Call for more information: 434.296.1727 or email us at www.wineinc@aol.com

THE HAPPY COOK Barracks Road Shopping Center, 977-2665, thehappycook.com Knife Skills April 24 and July 24 at 6pm, Free Sharpen your knife skills at this free class led by the shop’s Wüsthof rep.

MONTICELLO 931 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy., 984-9800, monticello.org Winemaking Workshop July 11, 9:30-11:30am. $24 Gabriele Rausse, the “father of Virginia wine,” leads this two-hour session on wine production. Thomas Jefferson said, “No nation is drunken when wine is cheap.” Learn how to make your own—from harvest to fermentation to bottling —in this hands-on workshop.

Where else might you find classes?

Boar’s Head Inn The Lorna Sundberg International Center at UVA Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards Red Pump Kitchen Whole Foods Market Willams-Sonoma

ASHLEY TWIGGS

Spend a couple hours making English scones, chocolate-covered strawberries and creme puffs together, then enjoy the fruits of your labor with a cup of tea or lemonade.

CHARLOTTESVILLE WINE & CULINARY

With over 20 years of heritage and a huge selection of wines in store, The Wine Warehouse has become a destination of choice for savvy wine and beer buyers in The Mid Atlantic.

Get yer cukes (and other locally grown produce) at the City Market, which runs through autumn.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 47

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t a E t KEEP IT FRESH, DRINK& LOCAL a E KEEP IT FRESH, DRINK&LOCAL

a y a l a b a y m a Jaa mbal J

Wild Wolf Brewing Company is a brewpub located in Nelson County that produces award winning beer and features a farm-to-table restaurant. Wild Wolf’s menu features locally sourced produce and meats from a growing number of farms in Nelson County. Often you are eating produce that was picked the very same day that it is served to you at Wild Wolf!

Wild Wolfcomes Brewing Company is a brewpub in Nelson County that–produces award winning beer and features restaurant.

Wildchickens Wolf’s menu from local cattle fed withlocated Wild Wolf ‘Brewers Grains’ grains which remain after the brewing processaisfarm-to-table complete. Our turkeys and also Our beef features locally sourced and meats a growing of farms in Nelson Often you are eating produce that was picked the very same come from local farms.produce We take the freshfrom poultry, brine number and smoke it before using County. it to create a delicious meal for you. Whole pigs are delivered to us day thatbyit aislocal served to you at Wild Wolf! weekly farmer, then broken down in house. This allows us to run our own charcuterie program – offering some of the most amazing cured meats

you experience. beefever comes from local cattle fed with Wild Wolf ‘Brewers Grains’ – grains which remain after the brewing process is complete. Our turkeys and chickens also Our will come from local farms. We take the fresh poultry, brine and smoke it before using it to create a delicious meal for you. Whole pigs are delivered to us All of Wild Wolf’s bread is made in house using local Virginia cultures as well as yeast from our brewing process. Our bakery specializes in ‘Brewers Grain’ weekly by a local farmer, then broken down in house. This allows us to run our own charcuterie program – offering some of the most amazing cured meats rolls, sourdough and rye loaves, as well as pretzels. All of the desserts listed on our menu are also made fresh from scratch in the bake shop. A dining you will ever experience. experince that is certainly worth the short-drive from Charlottesville.

All of Wild Wolf’s bread is made in house using local Virginia cultures as well as yeast from our brewing process. Our bakery specializes in ‘Brewers Grain’ rolls, sourdough and rye loaves, as well as pretzels. All of the desserts listed on our menu are also made fresh from scratch in the bake shop. A dining experince that is certainly worth the short-drive from Charlottesville.

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The area’s best dishes—for breakfast, lunch, dinner (and beyond!)

Good eggs Which came first: the chicken or the egg? We don’t have a definitive answer, but the egg’s appearance in everything from omelets to mayo suggests it’s at least trending. That’s why, for the first issue of Knife & Fork, we’ve tracked down nature’s incredible, edible gift from backyard chicken coops to your next breakfast sammy; from Bodo’s egg salad to Tin Whistle’s Scotch egg. Chickens may get the credit, but we’re giving eggs the glory. Order up!

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 55

SECOND HAND—IT’S THE GREENEST CHOICE, AND THE COOLEST, SAVIEST WAY TO FURNISH YOUR PLACE. BETTER MATERIALS, BETTER CRAFTSMANSHIP, SMALLER FOOTPRINT, LESS TOXIC, LESS WASTEFUL… RECYCLED, REPAIRED, THEN RIGHT BACK TO YOU WITH ALL ITS CHARM AND HISTORY INTACT, AND READY TO GIVE CLASS AND SPICE TO YOUR ALREADY COOL SPACE. CIRCA… IT’S THE SMARTEST CHOICE FOR THE SMARTEST PEOPLE. SECOND HAND—IT’S THE GREENEST CHOICE, AND THE COOLEST, SAVIEST WAY TO FURNISH YOUR PLACE. BETTER MATERIALS, BETTER CRAFTSMANSHIP, SMALLER FOOTPRINT, LESS TOXIC, LESS WASTEFUL… RECYCLED, REPAIRED, THEN RIGHT BACK TO YOU WITH ALL ITS CHARM AND HISTORY INTACT, AND READY TO GIVE CLASS AND SPICE TO YOUR ALREADY COOL SPACE. CIRCA… IT’S THE SMARTEST CHOICE FOR THE SMARTEST PEOPLE.SECOND HAND—IT’S THE GREENEST CHOICE, AND THE COOLEST, SAVIEST WAY TO FURNISH YOUR PLACE. BETTER MATERIALS, BETTER 434-295-5760 CRAFTSMANSHIP, SMALLER FOOTPRINT, LESS TOXIC, www.circainc.com LESS WASTEFUL…1700 RECYCLED, Allied Street REPAIRED, THEN Charlottesville, VA RIGHT BACK TO YOU WITH ALL ITS CHARM AND HISTORY INTACT, AND READY TO GIVE CLASS AND SPICE TO YOUR ALREADY COOL SPACE. CIRCA… IT’S THE SMARTEST CHOICE FOR THE SMARTEST PEOPLE.

Old. It’s the new new.

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AFFORDABLE ANTIQUES

www.charlottesvillecookingschool.com 56 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

•QUALITY

USED FURNITURE

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ometimes the basics aren’t actually all that basic. In fact, they often take the longest to master. So we asked Rice Hall, who mans the kitchen at one of Charlottesville’s most popular breakfast spots, Blue Moon Diner, to help us understand a few tricks of the trade. Here are the three universal rules: Start with a warm pan, use a bit of oil (vegetable, not olive!) and cook on medium to low-medium heat. Want to up your own egg game? Get crackin’.—Caite White

Sunnyside up Crack your egg in a warm pan and then leave it alone. When it’s done, the white part should be cooked (i.e. no longer translucent), the yolk will be runny and the bottom will be slightly browned.

Over easy, medium and hard Crack your egg and cook it for about 10 seconds (over easy), 25 seconds (over medium) or 40 seconds (over hard), then flip it to briefly (just a few seconds!) cook the top side.

Makin’ an egg edges), keep scraping the pan and moving the eggs around until they’re cooked. Adding cheese? Do it about halfway through cooking the eggs.

Into the frying pan Add this handmade 8" carbon steel frying pan from Charlottesville-based Blanc Creatives to your kitchen collection.

Blacksmith Corry Blanc makes a 10" version too, and says both are used by chefs all over town—from Brookville Restaurant and The Local to MAS and Ivy Inn. Hey, if it’s good enough for them... (8" for $145, 10" for $180, blanccreatives.com)—C.W.

Poached Fill a pan with about 1" of water (enough to submerge the egg without it touching the bottom of the pan), then salt the water and pour in a bit of vinegar (“It should taste a little like salad dressing,” Rice says) and bring the water to a boil.

Crack the egg in a bowl and slide it into the water. Parts of the egg will slough off (that’s normal) and, about three minutes later, use a slotted spoon to retrieve the remaining egg ball and gently jiggle it to check for consistency. It should be somewhere between an over soft and over medium egg yolk (“You end up with a little goat scrotum,” Rice says). If it’s ready, put the egg on a plate to drain the water (about 30 seconds), then serve.

Devilishly good When Red Hub Food Co. opened in January, owners Ryan Hubbard and Mark Marshall tested out this deviled egg— with bacon(!) and spicy relish mixed in with the egg filling— before adding it to the menu permanently. Our vote? We’ll take a dozen!—C.W.

MAX MARCH

To scramble an egg, add the egg mixture to a warm pan and, using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon (in other words, a utensil without sharp

AMANDA MAGLIONE

Scrambled

Blue Moon Diner’s co-owner, Rice Hall, says the key to cooking eggs comes down to two things: heat and oil.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 57

Get right to The Pointe.

Experience great daily specials at the Omni Charlottesville Hotel.

Join us at The Pointe Pub or The Pointe Patio overlooking the downtown pedestrian mall afternoons and evenings for our specialty cocktail of the week, as well as delicious snacks and other favored libations. Whether you’re a hotel guest or a Charlottesville native, we make it a point to give the very best we have to offer.

212 Ridge McIntire Road Charlottesville, VA 22902 434-971-5500

Fresh starts

It’s the most important meal of the day, so do it right. Here’s what we’ve been waking up to lately.

1. Oeufs en Cocotte at MarieBette 700 Rose Hill Dr., 529-6118 There’s no cuter dish than these poached eggs mixed with cream and served in a miniature cast iron skillet. Try it with garlic and fresh herbs or with a choice of smoked salmon, goat cheese, artichokes or spinach.

2. Frittata at Petit Pois 201 Main St., Downtown Mall, 979-7647 It’s the Cherry Glenn Farm ricotta that sets apart this dish, which also includes spinach and caramelized onions and is served with herbs de Provence potatoes and greens.

3. The Joan Marie Special Omelet at Bluegrass Grill & Bakery 313 Second St. SE #105, 295-9700 The fluffiest one we’ve tried, this omelet, named after the restaurant’s original owners, is made with spin-

ach, tomatoes, Swiss cheese and herbed cream cheese, which contains the ingredient that really makes this dish shine: dill.

4. Summer quiche at Greenwood Gourmet Grocery 6701 Rockfish Gap Turnpike, Crozet, (540) 456-6431 Depending on what the farmers bring by, you can always expect an artful combination of local veggies, greens, meat and cheese, such as Caromont Farm’s Farmstead Chevre, in Greenwood’s homemade quiche, available both by the slice and as a whole.

5. The Ranch Boss at Beer Run 156 Carlton Rd. #203, 984-2337 This meal of fried eggs with sausage, peppers and onions, served on crispy seven-grain tortillas with homemade salsa verde, is a brunch favorite.— Jennifer Senator

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PHOTOS: EMILY SACCO

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Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 59

2 times Cooking Contest Winner – Bed and Breakfast Association of Virginia (2014, 2015)

Original Menus • Gluten-Free Creations We bring the kitchen and cook onsite! *

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*We can host your event in partnership with Le Bleu Ridge B&B and the Flying Fox Winery at our location on 27 Chapel Hollow Rd., Afton, VA 22920

Historic Orange, Virginia is conveniently located near amazing vineyards, Civil War battlefields and Monteplier.

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Bed and breakfast take a crack (pun intended!) at it: Eggs Keswick—a slice of brioche bread topped with Kite’s ham, Gruyere and creamed leeks—is a local twist on classic Eggs Benny. An upgrade, if you ask us.

The Pointe at Omni Hotel 212 Ridge-McIntire Rd., 971-5500 At $16 per person (and an atmosphere where you can bring the kiddos), the breakfast buffet at The Pointe is your classic brunch setup: standard breakfast fare, plus made-to-order omelet and Belgian waffle stations.

EMILY SACCO

Oakhurst Inn Café & Coffee

The Old Mill Room at Boar’s Head Inn 200 Ednam Dr., 972-2230 Reservations are recommended for this $35 spread. You’ll find classic breakfast offerings like grits, hashbrowns and, of course, eggs aplenty, plus a carving station, fresh fish and even a dessert table. There’s a continental buffet option for $16, too, but go big or go home, we always say.

Fossett’s at Keswick Hall 701 Club Dr., Keswick, 979-3440 It’s hard to choose just one entrée from the menu at Fossett’s, but we’ll

Mayo always

One of the more divisive condiments, mayonnaise tops off everything from your grilled cheese to your chicken salad. We asked Leni Sorensen, local culinary historian, to share her personal recipe, which she’s been using for 40 years. “Once you do it a few times, and your family gets a taste for it, you’ll never go back to the store-bought kind,” she says. And, naturally, “Fresh eggs just add that extra ‘Yum!’”—Caite White

Leni’s Homemade Mayonnaise

With the blender running high, begin adding oil in a thin stream, pouring the oil into the vortex of the mixture. After you have added

Makes 1 quart Part I: 2 eggs 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tsp. salt 2 tsp. sugar 2 tsp. dark mustard (like Gulden’s Spicy Brown) Part II: 2 cups oil (half canola, half olive) 1/2 cup cider vinegar Put all Part I ingredients into blender jar. Run the blades on high till thoroughly mixed and beginning to thicken slightly.

RAMMELKAMP FOTO

You don’t have to stay overnight to get a taste of the capital breakfasts in our area’s finest sleep spots. Try any of these four Sunday brunches for an egg-cellent start to the day.

1616 Jefferson Park Ave., 872-0100 No buffets here—and that’s too bad, because we could eat the eggs meurette (eggs poached in a red wine sauce) all day long. And we’re not alone—the pintsized café’s dish was recently featured on the pages of Southern Living magazine.

one cup of the oil, add the vinegar all at once. Add the remaining cup of oil slowly, stopping and scraping the mixture down with the spatula as needed.

Pour the finished mayonnaise into a wide-mouthed quart canning jar. Let the jar sit on the counter for an hour—it aids the acid and the eggy/oil emulsion to set well. It will keep in the fridge for several weeks.

Leni Sorensen teaches cooking and rural skills classes from the kitchen at Indigo House, her home in White Hall, including a recently added course on condiments: mayo, mustards and ketchups. Visit her website, indigohouse.us, for more info.

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Asian delights

othing says American brunch like eggs, right?

Omelets, Benedict, scrambled, fried. But let’s talk about Asian cuisine, where the egg has been a star player at breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes for centuries. According to Yukiko Tauchi, Kokoro Sushi Japanese Restaurant co-owner and chef, the reason for putting eggs in classic Asian dishes like ramen is simple: “It just makes it more tasty.”

We won’t argue.

Here are a few of our favorite local Japanese, Chinese and Thai dishes with eggs in the spotlight.

Ramen at Kokoro 112 W. Main St. #6, Downtown Mall, 977-0167 Tauchi was right. The giant bowls of traditional Japanese soup—with the meat and broth of your choice in varying spice levels, kamaboko (cured fish cake) and fresh herbs— features a soft-boiled egg with a yellow-orange yolk cooked to perfection. It’s not runny, but it’s creamy enough to stir into the broth for an extra level of depth and flavor.

Pad see ew at Pad Thai

According to Yukiko Tauchi, the reason for putting eggs in classic Asian dishes like ramen is simple: “It just makes it more tasty.” We won’t argue.

EMILY SACCO

156 Carlton Rd. #202, 293-4032 Eggs are scrambled into the stir-fried noodle dish, adding texture and a

Ramen at Kokoro

EMILY SACCO

Eggs a-go-go Simple is better. Take, for instance, the Scotch egg at Tin Whistle Irish Pub: A centuries-old delicacy in the U.K., this picnic-perfect treat is a hardboiled egg wrapped in sausage, covered in breading and then deep-fried. Why didn’t we think of that?—Caite White

little sweetness to the mixture of meat (or tofu) and broccoli, carrots and other veggies in a garlicky brown sauce.

Egg drop soup at Taiwan Garden 2171 Ivy Rd., 295-0081 Usually served with bits of tofu and scallions, the classic Chinese meal precursor is made with beaten eggs in a boiled chicken broth.

Moo shu at Osaka Eastern Hibachi Restaurant 2119 Ivy Rd., 979-9292

Served with your choice of white or fried rice, the chopped meat (chicken, pork or shrimp) is mixed with scrambled eggs and stir-fried with thinly sliced veggies, garlic and soy sauce.

Egg foo yung at Tea House Chinese and Sushi Cuisine 325 Four Leaf Ln., 823-2868 A cross between an omelet and a pancake, this traditional Chinese dish is offered with your choice of chicken, pork or shrimp, plus soy sauce and veggies.—Laura Ingles

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 63

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He grew the coop One urban chicken farmer is making it look easy

“T

ten had constructed over the area to keep out birds of prey. But Whitten says the effort is worth it to have fresh eggs every day.

“They taste better,” he says. “It’s like homemade bread versus storebought. They’re fresher.”

The hens lay six or seven eggs per day—more than the Whittens can eat—so Oscar, their 7-year-old son, sells them to neighbors and friends for $4 a dozen. Because the chickens also eat feed, they aren’t considered organic or free-range, even though they have a yard to roam. Whitten laughs, “I call them free-spirit chickens instead.”

For others who are interested in raising chickens, Whitten suggests

PHOTOS: EMILY SACCO

hey’ve got fennel today,” says Hardy Whitten as his six white hens peck at scraps from the family’s dinner last night, which, judging by the food strewn about the yard, also included greens (the chickens’ favorite), celery, onions and avocado, plus oranges and lemons.

Whitten and his wife Betsy have raised chickens in the backyard of their Fry’s Spring home since 2010, and before that, at their home in Albemarle County since 2000. While the Whittens have raised many varieties—including “Martha Stewart-type chickens,” as Whitten calls Araucanas, which lay distinctive blue-green eggs—these birds are more common white hens, hatched last spring in the kindergarten class Betsy teaches at Johnson Elementary School. “At the end of the year, no one could take them,” says Whitten, “and we had a place for them to go.”

The hens have a fenced yard and two-story coop designed and built

by Whitten. The structure, which looks like a tower from a fairy tale, is made of scrap wood and shingles from the Habitat Store. It has two large windows, since “chickens need lots of sunlight to lay eggs,” Whitten says, and there’s a separate door to access the roosting boxes where the chickens lay their eggs. But the most important feature of the coop is the protection it offers from predators.

“That’s the hardest thing about having chickens,” Whitten says. He buried chicken wire in the ground before building the structure to keep predators out, and while it has been mostly effective, he didn’t count on the volume of wildlife in a city neighborhood.

“We’ve had foxes, raccoons, possums, hawks, raptors…” he says.

Recently, an owl plunged into the yard despite the web of twine Whit-

Hardy Whitten and his wife Betsy have raised chickens in the backyard of their Fry’s Spring home since 2010. They acquired the current group, six white hens, last spring after they hatched in the kindergarten class Betsy teaches at Johnson Elementary School.

consulting the website backyardchickens.com for tips on getting started and visiting local county fairs to see the many varieties of chickens. “And there are plenty of people around here to talk to if you need advice or have a problem,” he says. “There really is a chicken culture here.”—Jennifer Senator

The hens lay six or seven eggs per day—more than the Whittens can eat—so Oscar, their 7-yearold son, sells them to neighbors and friends for $4 a dozen.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 65

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Yes, MAS!

We can’t prove it, but we’d be willing to bet the Most Eggs on the Menu award goes to Belmont tapas spot MAS. We asked chef/owner Tomas Rahal to expound on the use of eggs in Spanish cuisine and his favorite eggy offerings.—Caite White

“Rich, buttery yolks make excellent meals, or add richness and minerality to dishes.”

LAUREN STONESTREET

“One of my first trips to Spain, I noticed baskets of fresh eggs at nearly every little market. The eggs had deep orange yolks that stood up tall. Rich, buttery yolks make excellent meals, or add richness and minerality to dishes.

“The yolks would be given to convents whose nuns turned them into delicious confections. As a part of Eastern and Western religious celebrations, the egg has significant representation. Think Salvador Dalí. Ferran Adrià. Eggs have also been important in the

128 pounds

Crunchy gray sea salt completes this egg and potato dish, Tortilla Española.

traditional Spanish wine culture, which used egg whites to help clarify wines.

“MAS buys eggs from local farms, Forrest Green Farm primarily, because they’re organic, pastured, nutritionally-dense, wellbred chickens, that are an integral part of our tapas, dessert and cocktail menus.”

Arugula salad ANDREA HUBBELL

Hard-boiled farm eggs complement the bitterness of the greens, raw or cooked.

Tarta de Santiago That’s how much egg salad is made per week at Bodo’s three locations.

“Almonds and eggs make a simple, delicious, nutritious treat for travelers on el Camino, during the holidays,” Rahal says.

Aioli An olive oil and garlic-based emulsion that goes with patatas bravas, gambas and anything off the grill.

“We add farm egg yolks to stabilize and enrich, then slowly mix with a paddle,” Rahal says. “No blenders or food processors ever.”

Asparagus, duck egg, truffles A beautiful springtime dish with a rich duck egg, soft-boiled for five minutes.

Tortilla Española Rahal says it doesn’t get more Spanish than this dish of eggs and potatoes: “Slowly cooked to golden perfection and sprinkled with crunchy gray sea salt. Pure, simple food.”

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 67

Meet one of ours at

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FREDRIK VON ERICHSEN

Just give me a riesling The ballad of a misunderstood grape Riesling’s come a long way since the 1970s. After generations of fractured vineyard ownership in Germany’s Mosel region dating back to Napoleon, the 1970s brought replanting and remapped vineyard ownership.

New, sensible roads greatly improved the harvesting process, and many areas planted habitats to attract beneficial birds to the vineyards. Upward creeping temperatures due to climate change have gifted us a decade-long string of gorgeous vintages. Riesling’s ancient melody, recomposed in a changing landscape, adds up to some of the world’s highest quality wine—so why aren’t we drinking more of it?

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 71

GS WEDDIN INNERS D L A S REHEAR AND E T A R O CORP VENTS E E T A PRIV 434-242-5495

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72 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

MC

Democracy Vineyards is a small Virginia farm winery in Lovingston, Virginia between Charlottesville and Lynchburg – about ½ mile off of Rt. 29 on Rt. 718. Established in 2008, its architecturally dramatic winery and thematically decorated tasting room opened in 2012.

The vineyard, planted in 2009, features Petit Manseng, Viognier, Merlot, Chambourcin, Petit Verdot and Pinotage. Estate grown and produced wines include varietals, blends and a Nelson county native apple wine. The tasting room is open from Thursday to Monday from April through mid-December and weekends in February and March.

Hours are from 12 Noon to 6 pm.

Democracy Vineyards * 585 Mountain Cove Road * Lovingston, VA * 22949

For information: 434-263-8463 or go to www.democracyvineyards.com

DEMOCRACY STARTS WITH BOLD VISION AND SUCCEEDS WITH BOLD ACTION.

I

NORM SHAFER

ts prevalence took a turn for the worse around World War I, when poverty, coupled with the phylloxera grape blight that crippled most of Europe’s vineyards, delivered a double blow that left winemakers reeling for decades.

At this crucial time, the United States passed Prohibition, stripping Europe of an important export market. Hasty replantings, young vines and cheap winemaking meant lakes of innocuous wine found their way to post-Prohibition America. By the 1970s, demand for sweet, inexpensive Riesling pervaded our wine shop shelves.

Then, a strange thing happened: The U.S. public swiftly turned its back on riesling and embraced chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon, in part to support our domestic successes in California.

“A century ago, rieslings were the most popular wines in the world.

Then people lost their minds,” said Market Street Wineshops owner Robert Harllee. Riesling became a dismissed collective memory, summed up in the much-repeated falsehood that riesling is sweet. But this one-dimensional view of the wine is slowly changing as a younger wine drinking generation is embracing a larger view of wine, and

Ox-Eye Vineyards’ John Kiers makes an affordable reserve riesling from his high-elevation limestone plot.

fueling a resurgence of less-popular grape varieties.

Locally, it’s been hard to entice wine drinkers toward riesling, which, for folks in the wine business, is baffling.

“One of the best wines I ever had in my life was a ’76 JJ Prum Auslese riesling,” said Vincent Derquenne, who offers two rieslings between

Debunking the myths of riesling Riesling just might be the world’s most misunderstood grape. Test your riesling smarts with these myths: MYTH: All riesling is sweet.

REALITY: Any grape variety can be made into a dry or sweet wine depending on when the fermentation ends and how much of the grape’s original sugar content is left behind. Even late-harvest grapes can be fermented dry. The reality is that some riesling is sweet.

MYTH: White wines like riesling don’t age, so they aren’t “fine wines.”

REALITY: Only in the last few centuries have white wines been tagged as “un-ageable.” The truth is that many fine white wines can age for decades or more. High-quality riesling can taste delicious soon after being bottled, but also 10, 20 or 30 years later. Riesling’s inherent acidity is a natural preservative.

MYTH: All riesling tastes the same.

REALITY: Rieslings from different parts of the world can taste vastly different from one another. If you think you don’t like riesling because you tried a cheap bottle of sweet stuff years ago, give it another shot. The riesling available in our market today is of the highest quality it’s ever been.

For a fun lesson in how location can affect a wine’s taste, try a dry, lime-zesty, Australian riesling alongside a peachy Mosel Kabinett.—E.S.

his restaurants, Bizou and Bang!—a lone Alsatian option by Leon Boesch at Bizou and a Klemens Weber at Bang!.

Will Richey, another riesling lover, presents a concise yet stunning selection at The Alley Light; for an ethereal pear-like wine, try the Schloss Lieser. At Market Street Wineshop, Harllee can wax poetic on the grape, then send you home with a lip-smacking bottle of Anton Bauer from Alsace.

And what of Virginia riesling? In the early days, the grape could be counted among Virginia’s top plantings, but has since been ripped out for other varieties that can better withstand our local humidity.

Still, we see a riesling resurgence in cooler microclimates. In 2013, 42 acres of Virginia riesling yielded about 100 tons of fruit, according to the 2013 Commercial Grape Report conducted by the Virginia Wine Board Marketing Office, but just a handful of producers bottle a 100 percent riesling. John Kiers at Ox-Eye Vineyards in Staunton makes an interesting and affordable Scale House Reserve dry riesling from a higher elevation limestone plot. Inspired by Alsace and the Finger Lakes, his wine is a window into the potential of riesling in Virginia’s cooler areas.

If riesling lies outside your usual repertoire, it might prove more approachable than you expect. Recent DNA analysis revealed that riesling and chardonnay share a genetic parent, making them half-

“One of the best wines I ever had in my life was a ’76 JJ Prum Auslese Riesling,” said Vincent Derquenne, who offers two rieslings between his restaurants, Bizou and Bang!. siblings. Both grapes have potential for endless complexity, depth and balance, and riesling’s natural acidity begs for food and flavor—each mouthwatering sip prompts the next bite, transforming any dining experience into a symphony of tension and release. And then there’s the topic of value. Because the public hasn’t yet caught on to the darling of the wine world, riesling prices are low, which means in your own backyard, you can find world-class bottles for a song.— Erin Scala

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 73

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When you shop for German rieslings, keep your eye out for the word “Prädikatswein.” It usually appears in very small print on the label, but it is an indicator that this wine is in the highest quality class of German wines.

For a unique glance into Germany’s future potential, look for the letters “GG” printed on the label, or in raised letters on the bottle. The GG wines are a relatively new style of wine of extremely high quality, and for the most part, they are dry and compact. Like most world-class wines, they can be quite pricey, though in comparison to Grand Cru Burgundy, the GGs are incredible values.—E.S.

EMILY SACCO

SHOP LIKE A PRO

Market Street Wineshop stocks a robust collection of rieslings from each corner of the globe.

Perfect pairings OFF DRY

Pairing food with such a diverse and versatile grape as riesling is a neverending adventure! Here are a few of our favorite combinations. You can find many of the wines at Market Street Wineshop, Tastings, Whole Foods and In Vino Veritas.—E.S.

(sweet, like a fresh peach) JJ Prum Spatlese (Mosel, Germany) Pair with: Peaches and cream, or a caramel dessert

SWEET Zilliken Auslese (Mosel, Germany) Pair with: Spicy ramen and mushrooms

DRY Pfeffingen (Pfalz, Germany) Pair with: White asparagus, grilled summer squashes and shellfish Shafer-Frohlich (Nahe, Germany) Pair with: A fresh heirloom tomato from Radical Roots (City Market) Paul Cluver (South Africa) Pair with: A shaved fennel and citrus salad Henschke Julius (Australia) Pair with: Pork chop and a lime-parsley-onion salad

JUST OFF DRY Richard Bocking Devon (Mosel, Germany) Pair with: Pâté, fatty charcuterie, pears and blue cheese Kabinett-style riesling from any producer in the Mosel Pair with: Green curry from Thai 99 II

AMANDA MAGLIONE

(a touch of sweetness)

The sweetness in a Kabinett-style riesling pairs perfectly with Thai 99 II’s green curry.

Around the world Riesling is highly expressive of the soil it’s planted on. Think of riesling as a prism, through which a kaleidoscope of flavors can be refracted.

From the steep, slate hills of the Mosel in Germany, riesling can smell like wet rocks, stone fruits and flowers. A fine one can stun you into reflective silence. Even a mediocre one can be a joyous, pleasant experience.

Here in the United States, the wines are made on a spectrum of dry to sweet. As they age, the sweeter wines are perceived as drier. A 1980 Zilliken Auslese riesling, for instance, tasted sweet when it was first made; but open it now, and it tastes practically bone dry, with aromas of fallen leaves after the rain. But drinking these wines early is an indulgence in hedonism brought on by the peachy, juicy pleasantness of a Gunderloch or Merkelbach riesling.

For a truly unique expression, try riesling from iron-rich, bright red, terra rossa soil. Riesling from this soil manifests in sanguine, earthy aromas and can yield a silty, sandy texture that is perfect with fatty foods and braised meats.

In Australia, riesling refracts into distinct and powerful lime aromas, and the producers make bone-dry wines with bright, citrusy acidity.

Eden Valley is the hot spot, and Jeffrey Grosset—the leader of the

pack—is world famous for his sizzling, dense rieslings, and for championing the screw cap closure early on. Also look out for Henschke, Mesh and Pewsey Vale.

Riesling is booming in New Zealand. The unique clay soils of Nelson yield tart, bright rieslings from Seifried Estate, while the schist in Central Otago gives Rippon riesling its subtle power and finesse. At Felton Road, the riesling is more on par with a peachy Mosel. Bright and dry versions from Marlborough are

A fine one can stun you into reflective silence. Even a mediocre one can be a joyous, pleasant experience. citrusy and affordable, while the juicy, floral rieslings from Pegasus Bay of Canterburry can be hauntingly delicious.

You can find some tasty and inexpensive rieslings from South Africa.

At Shebeen, try Paul Cluver’s riesling for a lemon-fennel expression.

On the home front, we see riesling doing well in Washington State (look for Pacific Rim, Chateau Ste. Michelle and Kiona), New York’s Finger Lakes region, and we’re just beginning to see some interesting riesling in Virginia.—E.S.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 75

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WINERIES, VINEYARDS & CIDERIES

COURTESY EARLY MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS

Sippin’ spots

Early Mountain Vineyards

Afton Mountain Vineyards Try the Albarino, a limited production estate-grown white only available in the summer. Tastings are $7 per person. 234 Vineyard Ln., Afton.

(540) 456-8667. aftonmountain vineyards.com

Albemarle CiderWorks What started as an orchard for rare and heirloom apples grew into a popular area cidery. Tastings and tours are available for $3 per person.

2550 Rural Ridge Ln. 297-2326. albemarleciderworks.com.

Ankida Ridge Vineyards A Sumerian word that means “where heaven and earth join,” Ankida marks the spot—at 1,800' on the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Visit the Downtown tasting room (209 Second St., 989-7420, 22brixwineroom.com), too. 1304 Franklin Creek Rd., Amherst. 922-7678. ankidaridge.com.

Stanardsville. 985-6100. autumnhill wine.com.

Barboursville. (540) 832-2828. burnleywines.com.

Barboursville Vineyards

Cardinal Point Vineyard & Winery

Routinely listed on national “Best winery” lists, Barboursville is a true destination—for the wines and the scenery. Open for tastings ($5, includes glass). 17655 Winery Rd., Barboursville. (540) 832-3824. bbvwine.com.

Try the Quattro—a blend of Riesling, Gewurtztraminer, Viognier and Traminette—at this spare but relaxing spot. Open for tours and $5 tastings.

9423 Batesville Rd., Afton. (540) 456-8400. cardinalpointwinery.com.

Blenheim Vineyards

Castle Hill Cider

Established in 2000 by owner Dave Matthews (yep, that Dave Matthews), Blenheim’s timber-frame tasting room looks down into the barrel room. Tours and tastings are $5 per person. 31 Blenheim Farm.

293-5366. blenheimvineyards.com.

Enjoy a glass of Terrestrial on the octagonal porch or explore the grounds. Open for tastings daily.

6065 Turkey Sag Rd., Keswick.

296-0047. castlehillcider.com.

Bold Rock Cidery Virginia’s largest (and growing!) cidery. Free tours and tastings daily.

1020 Rockfish Valley Hwy., Nellysford. 361-1030. boldrock.com.

Autumn Hill Vineyards

Burnley Vineyards

Only open four weekends per year, Autumn Hill produces eight varietals. Tastings are $7 per person.

One of the oldest vineyards in the Monticello Viticultural Area. Tastings are $2 per person. 4500 Winery Ln.,

Charlottesville. $5 for a classic tasting, $10 for reserve. 500 DelFosse Winery Ln. 263-6100. delfossewine.com.

DuCard Vineyards A successful grape-growing business bloomed into what’s now this boutique winery. Tastings are $6 per person and are credited back with a two bottle minimum purchase. 40 Gibson Hollow Ln., Etlan. (540) 923-4206. ducard vineyards.com.

Early Mountain Vineyards

Cooper Vineyards There’s something for everyone—including sangria—under Cooper’s LEED-certified roof. Open for tastings daily. $10 per person. 13372 Shannon Hill Rd., Louisa. (540) 894-5253. coopervineyards.com.

DelFosse Vineyards & Winery Try the reds at this off-the-beatenpath spot 30 minutes from

Beautifully appointed facility, with a terrace for mountain and vineyards views while sipping. 6109 Wolftown-Hood Rd., Madison. (540) 948-9005. earlymountain.com.

First Colony Winery Adopt a row of grape vines and you’ll get to watch the growing process, learn how to prune and participate in its harvest. $5 tastings.

1650 Harris Creek Rd. 979-7105. firstcolonywinery.com.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 79

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 77

Located in Madison, Virginia at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Early Mountain Vineyards comprises more than 300 acres of the historic Monticello Wine Trail. With its warm and inviting tasting room, picturesque outdoor spaces and breathtaking views, guests are welcomed to Early Mountain to enjoy the wines and linger for a palate pleasing experience.

6 1 0 9 W O L F T O W N - H O O D R O A D , M A D I S O N , V A 2 2 7 2 7 • 5 4 0 . 9 4 8 . 9 0 0 5 • e a r l y m o u n t a i n . c o m

First Colony Winery is nestled at the foothills of the Blue Ridge, the heart of Virginia Wine Country. First Colony boasts breathtaking sunsets, charming Old World gardens, meticulously manicured vineyards and newly renovated facilities. The warm hospitality and elegant atmosphere will make you feel like kicking back and staying awhile.

Special Events to the public throughout the Summer, and live music every Sunday April-October.

Open Mon-Fri: 10-6 | Sat-Sun: 11-6

1650 Harris Creek Road, Charlottesville, VA 22902 | (434) 979-7105 | info@firstcolonywinery.com 78 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 77

Lovingston Winery

Flying Fox Vineyard

A densely planted 8.5 acres yields wine of high-quality fruit. (Word to the wise: Leave your pups at home; there are two here already!) Free tastings. 885 Freshwater Cove Ln., Lovingston. 263-8467. lovingston winery.com.

Glass House Winery Don’t miss the tropical conservatory next to the tasting room—or the hand-crafted chocolates! Tastings are $5 per person, $8 with an etched wine glass. 5898 Free Union Rd., Free Union. 975-0094. glasshousewinery.com.

Hill Top Berry Farm & Winery The bread and butter at this medieval-themed winery is the authentic honey meads. Try the Dragon’s Blood. Open for tours and tasting. 2800 Berry Hill Rd., Nellysford. 361-1266. hilltopberry wine.com.

Horton Vineyards Fruit and dessert wines abound at this winery just outside of Barboursville. Tastings are $5. 6399 Spotswood Trail, Gordonsville. (540) 832-7440. hortonwine.com.

Jefferson Vineyards Grab a bottle of Meritage and get a spot on the tree deck for a completely picturesque afternoon.

Tastings are $10. 1353 Thomas Jefferson Pkwy. 977-3042. jeffersonvineyards.com.

Keswick Vineyards Dog-friendly tasting spot located at the historic 400-acre Edgewood Estate. Tastings daily. 1575 Keswick Winery Dr., Keswick. 244-3341. keswickvineyards.com.

Meriwether Springs Vineyard The post-and-beam event space is just the beginning—there’s also two ponds, a three-acre lake and beautiful Ivy Creek here, which flanks the property. Open for tours and tastings. 1040 Owensville Rd. 270-4299. meriwethersprings.com.

Michael Shaps Wineworks Sample Virginia wines in the spare but stylish tasting room, as well as the Premiere Cru Burgundies, grown and bottled in France by owner Michael Shaps. $10 for a tasting of 12 wines. 1781 Harris Creek Way. 296-3438. michaelshaps wines.com.

Mountain Cove Vineyards Even better with age? The first batch of wine here was made in 1976. Open for tours and tastings.

1362 Fortunes Cove Ln., Lovingston. 263-5392. mountaincove vineyards.com.

Mountfair Vineyards You’ll find small-batch, blended red wines at Mountfair, just 20 miles west of Charlottesville. Open for complimentary tastings. 4875 Fox Mountain Rd., Crozet. 823-7605. mountfair.com.

Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards Try a glass of the Merlot Reserve while having lunch at the Farm Table & Wine Bar. Tastings are $6 per

Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards person. 5022 Plank Rd., North Garden. 202-8063. pippinhillfarm.com.

Pollak Vineyards Located between Charlottesville and Wintergreen, this 98-acre farm produces 27 acres of French vinifera. Open daily. 330 Newtown Rd., Greenwood. (540) 456-8844. pollakvineyards.com.

Prince Michel Vineyard & Winery Sip a glass of Chardonnay in Prince Michel’s tasting room, above the barrel cave and tank room. Tastings and self-guided tours. 154 Winery Ln., Leon. (540) 547-3707. princemichel.com.

Rappahannock Cellars West Coast wine on the east: A desire to raise their 12 children in Virginia led Rappahannock’s owners to relocate from California. Open year-round for tours and $8 tastings.

14437 Hume Rd., Huntly. (540) 635-9398. rappahannockcellars.com.

Sharp Rock Vineyards Once a working family farm, Sharp Rock is now a vineyard, winery and bed and breakfast. Tastings and self-guided tours available. 5 Sharp Rock Rd., Sperryville. (540) 987-8020. sharprockvineyards.com.

King Family Vineyards Frequent Governor’s Cup award winner, King Family is also the site of polo matches every Sunday from Memorial Day weekend to mid-October. Tastings are $7, and you get to keep the glass! 6550 Roseland Farm, Crozet. 823-7800. kingfamilyvineyards.com.

Stinson Vineyards

ASHLEY TWIGGS

Lazy Days Winery A boutique winery that’s home to local festivals like the Virginia Summer Solstice Wine Festival.

Open for tastings. 1351 N. Amherst Hwy., Amherst. 381-6088. lazydayswinery.com.

JEN FARIELLO

Named after the weathervane on the vineyard’s main building, Flying Fox boasts a limited production of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Viognier and Pinot Gris.

Tastings are $5. Hwy. 151 and Chapel Hollow Rd., Afton. 361-1692. flyingfoxvineyard.com.

Veritas Vineyard & Winery

The cozy tasting room opens to a quaint patio for sipping award-winning wines and noshing on farm fresh snacks. Tastings are $7, $10 per person for groups of 10 or more.

4744 Sugar Hollow Rd., Crozet.

823-7300. stinsonvineyards.com

Stone Mountain Vineyards A rustic winery offers panoramic

views of the surrounding counties from 1,700'. Tastings and tours available. 1376 Wyatt Mountain Rd., Dyke. 990-9463. stonemountain vineyards.com.

Veritas Vineyard & Winery Award-winning wines at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Bring a picnic basket! Tastings are $5.

145 Saddleback Farm, Afton. (540) 456-8000. veritaswines.com.

Weston Farm Vineyard & Winery Small, family-owned winery. Must love dogs: Charlie and Suzie, the owners’ French bulldogs, often roam the property. $5 tastings and you keep the glass. 206 Harris Creek Rd., Louisa. (540) 967-4647. westonfarmvineyardandwinery. webs.com.

White Hall Vineyards Call ahead to reserve a cheese plate from the neighboring monastery to enjoy with your $5 tasting. 5282 Sugar Ridge Rd., White Hall.

823-8615. whitehallvineyards.com.

Wintergreen Winery This Nelson County spot includes a selection of fruit wines from raspberry to apple. Tastings are $5 and include the glass. 462 Winery Ln., Nellysford. 361-2519. wintergreenwinery.com.

Wisdom Oak Winery Make your way down the long gravel road to get to an intimate tasting room and outdoor picnic area. Tastings and tours are $5 per person and $10 per person for groups of eight or more. 3613 Walnut Branch Ln., North Garden.

984-4272. wisdomoakwinery.com.

Spring/Summer Knife&Fork 79

REAL APPLES, REAL CRAFT, REAL PEOPLE

CO-FOUNDERS BRIAN SHANKS AND JOHN WASHBURN KNOW THE TRUE MEANING OF LOCAL.

Country Living in virginia R

Blandemar Farm Estates Stately brick home in Albemarle County. 25 acres with pond. Over 8000sf, with formal limestone foyer, 1st floor master suite, and fully finished basement. Copper guttering, mahogany thresholds and custom moldings are just a few of the many details given to this Greer Associates built property.

Ann Hay Hardy (202) 297 - 0228 ahhardy@farmandestate.com

U ED

CE

D

Free Union Road Elegant Victorian in Western Albemarle. Beautiful mountain and pastoral views. Just under 5000sf home has attention to detail in every room. Crown molding, hard wood floors and 10' ceilings. Gourmet kitchen features farm sink, granite counter tops and island. Master suite is complete with fireplace & claw foot tub. Third floor turret provides a unique finished space. Pool. Meriwether Lewis district.

FRANK HARDY, INC. REALTORS FARM AND ESTATE BROKERS

417 Park St. • Charlottesville, VA 22902

www.farmandestate.com

80 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Meet Your

Match with StanleY Martin

hoMeS Why Rent When You Can Own A New Stanley Martin Home?

Visit our communities located within miles of the UVA Medical Center & find your new home today!

6.6 mileS to uva

WilloW Glen

Move-In-Ready Homes Now Available!

Townhomes and single family homes off of 29N within walking distance of Hollymead Town Center and NGIC. From the $200’s 434.284.3252 2819 Shannon Glen Court, Charlottesville, VA 22911 GPS: 38.128970,-78.448433

3.3 mileS to uva

1.7 mileS to uva

StoneWater

Huntley

1215 Penfield Ln, Charlottesville, VA 22901 GPS: 38.052653,-78.462188

Selling from Avinity: 2068 Avinity Loop, Charlottesville, VA 22902 GPS: 38.020856, -78.519079

Amazing Views!

Townhomes and wooded single family homesites off Rio Road and close to Pen Park. First floor master plans available!

From the $200’s 434.466.4100

Convenient to UVA! Single Family Homes steps from the heart of Downtown and walking distance to UVA and the Medical Center.

From the low $300’s 434.466.1005

3.1 mileS to uva

avinity

Final Opportunity!

3-4 bedroom garage townhomes.

Under 3 miles to Downtown with views of Carter’s Mountain.

From the upper $200’s 434.466.1005 2068 Avinity Loop, Charlottesville, VA 22902 GPS: 37.994759,-78.499911

Visit us online at StanleyMartin.com to learn more about these communities!

434.975.7445 | 200 Garrett Street, Suite B, Charlottesville, VA 22902 | Charlottesville Model Homes Open Daily 11am-5pm MHBR No. 3588 | ©Stanley Martin Homes | *Prices, features and availability subject to change without notice. Number of bedrooms and bathrooms vary by homesite. Options and incentives do not apply to all communities, lots, and house types. Photos shown may be of similar homes. Certain restrictions apply. Please see a Neighborhood Sales Manager for details.

The Last Bite

Hey, puddin’ The banana pudding at PastureQ masquerades as a crème brûlée, with rich banana custard under slices of sweet, perfectly burnt bananas.

That’s what we call Southern comfort.—Caite White EMILY SACCO

82 Knife&Fork Spring/Summer

Fossett’s at Keswick Hall Influenced by the spirit of colonialism that founded the region.

Call today to rediscover Charlottesville’s finest in locally sourced, regional cuisine.

(434) 979-3440 Keswick Hall and Golf Club, 701 Club Dr, Keswick, VA 22947