CULTURE ALL YOU CAN EAT
Happiest Season PG-13, 102 minutes Streaming (Hulu)
EZE AMOS
STAFF PHOTO
PAUL WHICHELOE
In an effort to support local dining establishments during the pandemic, our writers have been enjoying a variety of takeout meals from some of their favorite restaurants. Contribute to this ongoing series by sending your own delicious experiences to living@c-ville.com.
C&O’s Retreat Farm lamb, Mochiko’s Spam musubi, and Passiflora’s tacos are all delicious reasons to order out.
C&O From rounds of Greyhounds to late-night grilled cheeses at the bar, C&O has been a staple in my Charlottesville dining repertoire for years. So when I walked up to the restaurant’s Dutch door labeled “takeout” to pick up my order, I felt an overwhelming sense of comfort. Through the open window, I could see the downstairs bar where, despite my longing, I wouldn’t be taking a seat—instead I’d be taking my cocktail home with me. To accompany my Retreat Farm lamb entrée and side of Brussels sprouts, I opted for the Half Smoke—reposado tequila, mezcal, agave, and bitters. When unpacking my meal at home, I was pleasantly surprised to find a handwritten note, instructing me to “sip, enjoy, repeat,” after pouring the Half Smoke over ice and squeezing the twist, which was included in its own small container. The chef had also thrown in an additional serving of Brussels because they had extra, and they truly abide by the adage that the dish is best served hot. The Brussels were delicately prepared, while the lamb entrée came with three different cuts of meat, accented by a rosemary jus. But it was the personal touches that made this a special takeout experience, like visiting an old friend.—Desiré Moses
Mochiko Cville
Passiflora Passiflora, downtown’s newest dining spot, is set to be a C’ville favorite, thanks to its fresh flavors and hospitable service. I was delighted by its takeout options, and, aside from a lack of utensils in the to-go bag, I had a speedy and pleasant experience. The restaurant’s Baja-Mediterranean style is something we haven’t seen much of in Charlottesville, so deciding on just a few dishes from Passiflora’s menu is almost an exercise in futility. Nevertheless, I managed to assemble a delicious spread of fajitas, tacos, grilled pineapple, and fruity cider. Everything delivered a refreshing brightness, along with an authentic mix of Latin spices. The piquant chimichurri particularly stood out, deftly bridging the gap between the sweet char of the grilled pineapple and the spice of the pickled cherry tomatoes. Of course, the best way to enjoy great food is with great company, and my friend loved the chicken fajita, though it was slightly messy as a finger food. The pico de gallo, sour cream, and queso perfectly exemplified the Tex-Mex half of Passiflora’s diverse menu. The portions were generous as well; one appetizer and the single Baja fish taco were a perfect light dinner for less than $20. And the beer-battered cod, topped with red cabbage, creamy queso asadero, rich aioli, and wrapped in a flour tortilla, was just dense enough to be satisfying without the heavy decadence that usually accompanies fried foods. Paired with El Chavo, a flavorsome mango-habanero cider, our dinner from Passiflora provided an impressive array of flavors that will definitely prompt a return.—Will Ham
The chef had also thrown in an additional serving of Brussels because they had extra, and they truly abide by the adage that the dish is best served hot. DESIRÉ MOSES
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I’d heard great things from many friends about Mochiko, the Hawaiian BBQ and deli located in The Yard at 5th Street Station, and was eager to try it. The ordering process was easy to navigate online directly from the Mochiko website. Pickup was quick and simple, at the exact time specified when ordering, with ample parking outside the restaurant. I opted for the Mochiko Chicken over white rice with a side of ahi (tuna) poke. The signature chicken dish reminded me of what you might get at an Asian-style restaurant at a mall food court, but well-balanced flavors (chicken marinated in garlic, ginger, and soy then lightly breaded in rice flour and fried) and the fact that it was freshly prepared elevated the overall meal.
The highlight was the ahi poke. Small pieces of raw tuna marinated in sesame oil, soy sauce, and green onions evoked memories of a vacation in Hawaii. In the end, I was sorry that I had only ordered a small side portion. Next time I will order poke as my main dish and perhaps add another Hawaiian classic, the Spam musubi. While I won’t be sitting on a beach in Hawaii anytime soon, the classic flavors of Mochiko allow me to close my eyes and imagine that I am there.—Paul Ting
@cville_culture
Happiest Season should be lauded for not only addressing the complicated and weighty issues around coming out, but also for having a queer relationship at the heart of a traditional Christmas family comedy. Yet, it still stops short of condemning hatred and homophobia. There are hints of the negative impact that such outdated and ignorant beliefs can have on lives, thus justifying Harper’s reluctance to express herself, but the film never goes so far as to identify these beliefs as the real villain here. Sure, Harper’s repeated lies are problematic and the source of funny antics, but Happiest Season avoids connecting the dots to the homophobia that drove her to lie for all these years. Happiest Season is a solid addition to the legions of heteronormative Christmas movies. Had Harper been a more engaging character or if it focused on what sets it apart from other holiday films, it might have been a great one.
TAKE US OUT
December 2 – 8, 2020 c-ville.com
Happiest Season shines when it takes its time to deal with the uniqueness of its premise. But the film insists on spending far more time on the less remarkable moments. Ted and Tipper forcing a dinner with Harper’s handsome and successful ex Connor (Jake McDorman) is awkward enough, but adds little to the plot and doesn’t deepen Harper’s character—things would be just as awkward were they all straight. It’s the moments Harper is with her secret high school girlfriend Riley (Aubrey Plaza) that help us understand how Harper got Abby into this situation, and bring nuance into the film. These brief windows into the complexity of their lives, more so than people who never have a closet to come out of, humanize and emphasize. This is not merely a white lie, it is Harper living in fear of being rejected for being her true self. To that end, Davis feels a little wasted in this role. Aside from the inevitable emotional climax on Christmas morning, she plays a bland woman who is concerned with family appearances, and seems quite happy in her hometown. She effortlessly rises to the demands of the character, but as one of the more interesting actresses working today, the rest of the film feels like a lost opportunity. Others have to do the heavy lifting to make Harper seem intriguing and torn, as she glides through the visit relatively unscathed. While Stewart does an incredible job of managing a smiling but disappointed visage throughout, Holland and Daniel Levy are the ones stealing the scenes. Holland takes what could have been a throwaway, comic sidekick and turns her into the confident but quirky sister standing in the shadows of Harper and Sloane. She seems aware of their differences but assured of her value in the world—and that confidence makes her the one to watch in any ensemble scene. Levy, as Abby’s best friend John, is the fast-talking supportive rock that Abby needs to get through these five days. He’s the only one looking out for her, and their chemistry sells the friendship.
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