Knife & Fork | Spring 2022

BOOKS! There’s much to learn from a cookbook

ART! A local creator takes to the kitchen

EDUCATION! Teacher’s Pet Nat’s oeno-school SPRING 2022

Taste is everything.

FLIGHT OF FANCY: We’re sweet on Cake Bloom’s sampler board! PAGE 26

GOOD IS NEW! WHY YOU SHOULD BE EXCITED ABOUT THESE 9 JUST-OPENED EATERIES

At the YMCA, a café built on inclusivity

A ROOM WITH A VIEW The Legendary Mill Room

The Mill Room Restaurant is a highlight of Boar’s Head Resort and the go-to destination in Charlottesville. Our chefs infuse old-world cuisine with modern techniques, sophisticated plating and beautifully choreographed service.

Reservations: BoarsHeadResort.com/Dining or (434) 972-2230

Owned and operated by the UVA Foundation

Locally farmed. Artisan made. Home delivered.

Explore our menu of local greens, proteins and prepared meals, all delivered to your doorstep.

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Eclectic, scratch-made pastries, croissants, french macarons, & more.

Breakfast sandwiches on the weekend.

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American Regional American Regional CuisineCuisine Featuring Featuring steaks, scallops, salmon, pork chops, steaks, scallops, salmon, pork chops, chicken, pasta & other fresh food fresh food chicken, pasta & seasonal other seasonal We offer several gluten-free, vegan vegetable We and offer severalchoices gluten-free, vegan

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S Amuse-Bouche 8 Eat like a pro Three local foodies share their favorite dishes.

8 Gold plated Punch up your table with these from Louise.

9 Open says me New spots to quell your cravings.

The Dish 13 Ways to wine Kylie Britt and the oeno-education quest.

17 Breakfast bites A local family applies science to diners.

18 Food vs. art

50

The approximate number of lavender crème brûlées chef Chris Humphrey sends out of the kitchen during peak season. PAGE 38

20 Past pages Becky Calvert unlocks history through cookbooks.

23 Helping hands Keeping it kind at the YMCA’s café.

38 The Last Bite

PHOTOS: ANNA KARIEL

Multi-hyphenate Brittany Fan loves both.

New year, new food

PAGE 26

If mainstream diet culture is to be believed, the start of a new year means hitting the gym and trimming the waistline.

But we don’t buy into the hype, which is why, in this issue, we’re highlighting nine new restaurants with indulge-worthy menus, from gooey grilled cheese to creamy cake flights.

Brasserie says, “Relax.”

COVER PHOTO: Anna Kariel. COMMENTS? Email us at editor@c-ville.com

KNIFE & FORK, a supplement to C-VILLE Weekly, is distributed in Charlottesville, Albemarle County and the Shenandoah Valley. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Knife & Fork Editor Caite Hamilton. Copy Editor Susan Sorensen.

308 E. Main St. Charlottesville, VA 22902 (434) 817-2749 n c-ville.com c-ville.com/knife-fork

Graphic Designer Tracy Federico.

Art Director Max March.

Account Executives Chloie Heimer, Lisa C. Hurdle, Gabby Kirk, Stephanie

Vogtman, Beth Wood. Production Coordinator Faith Gibson.

Publisher Anna Harrison. Chief Financial Officer

Debbie Miller. A/R Specialist Nanci Winter. Circulation Manager Billy Dempsey. ©2022 C-VILLE Weekly.

Knife&Fork 5

WE DO CATERING

The Taste of Turkey, Experience a world renowned delicacy from Turkey in the heart of downtown Charlottesville.

Our authentic and delicious Döner Kebab is prepared in the Turkish street food tradition with homemade falafel.

They are served in pita sandwiches, in wraps and in bowls.

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Aromas of ripe raspberries and red cherries with a woody undertone. Medium-bodied with silky tannins. Fresh, citrus acidity keeps the palate bright through the steady finish. Tasty. Drink or hold.

AmuseBouche

Eat like a pro

Three food folks spill their local menu favorites Hunter Smith (left) “The basil chicken dish from Chimm Street is out of this world. Dairy Market in general has been a pandemic lifesaver, with lots of great options that satisfy the four very different palates of my nuclear family, but the spice level is just right with fresh basil flavor that goes on forever.”

Rachel Pennington “Gabe Garcia and Morgan Hurt have the most creative and delicious sandwiches in town.

[The Angry Bird] comes with my favorite juicy chicken thigh, herb aioli, greens, cheddar, and jalapeños. I’ve not had one bad sandwich from KITCHENette—you seriously can’t go wrong.”

Jay Pun

EZE AMOS

Call us optimists, but as soon as spring has sprung, we’re hosting brunch—and we’re putting these Italian salad plates on our spruced-up, ready-for-guests (patio) table. Reminiscent of Romanian folk art (with a whimsical twist) and featuring a hand-painted gold rim, they give off the coveted “I just threw this together” vibe while still keeping the look elevated. Let’s eat! Louise, $38 8 Knife&Fork

SUPPLIED PHOTO

Plated gold

“This past year I still got mostly takeout, and the staple that I bought every Saturday was Sussex Farm/Mama Bird’s different varieties of kimchi—especially her Korean cabbage kimchi and special ramp kimchi.”

Gettin’ full From well-established brands to

visionary new ventures, there’s plenty to dig in to when it comes to local restaurants.

By Will Ham

EZE AMOS

S

ince the beginning of the pandemic, Charlottesville lost more than 20 restaurants.

And while we mourn the losses, there’s plenty to be excited about, too. Last year saw 30 new restaurants and a bustling food court open. All signs point to a culinary comeback.

The biggest foodie boon in 2021 might be the opening of Dairy Market, a modern food hall that began serving hungry customers in December of 2020. With 16 eateries and two retailers, visitors can score a cone at Moo Thru, a burger at Citizen Burger Stand, lumpia at the food-truck-turned-brickand-mortar restaurant Manila Street, and mac ‘n’ cheese at Angelic’s Kitchen—or hit South and Central Latin Grill, an upscale, casual full-service restaurant. And across the street is Cou Cou Rachou, a new French bakery from pastry chef Rachel De Jong.

The Shops at Stonefield introduced Akira Ramen & Sushi and Torchy’s Tacos, and the “coming soon” Organic Krush Lifestyle Eatery.

The Downtown Mall welcomed Crush Pad Wines, an intimate location to sample fine wines from all over the globe, and Café Frank, a casual eatery with a classic French style by the notable chef Jose de Brito. In addition, a familiar place got a new look when a rebranded Citizen Bowl became Lucky Blue’s Bar, with a menu update that keeps customer favorites intact.

Some old favorites offered new options last year. The Monsoon Siam team expanded to two new locations—in Crozet, Coconut Thai Kitchen boasts many of Monsoon’s popular dishes, and Pineapples Thai Kitchen is a welcoming bright spot in the former Tim-

bercreek Market space in the Coca Cola building. Al Carbón added a second location at 5th Street Station.

The debut of Laura Fonner’s first restaurant, Siren, had food followers buzzing, as Fonner, the former executive chef at Duner’s, revealed her culinary vision of Mediterranean cuisine with a seafood focus. Next to Siren, Vision BBQ offers classic smoky goodness and comfort sides from former Maya cooks.

Students on the Corner are enjoying new options at Inka Grill Peruvian Cuisine and Sammy’s On The Corner. You’ll

find upscale dining at The Ridley (modern Southern cuisine), Keswick Hall’s Marigold by Jean-Georges (“rustic chic”), and The Wool Factory’s Broadcloth (elegance in a historic textile mill).

Finally, we have hearty sandwiches from Taste Shack and good ol’ surf sammys and baskets from Skrimp Shack. This issue features a few more of the city’s recent openings—head to page 30 for the deets.

This article first appeared in C-VILLE Weekly.

Knife&Fork 9

Sweet and savory European and American style pastries, croissants, quiches, baked goods, Sweet and savory and “realEuropean food” to fueland yourAmerican day. Espresso and teas. Beautifully crafted layer cakes, style pastries,organic croissants, quiches, baked goods, dessert bars and catering.

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10 Knife&Fork

412 E Main St, Charlottesville, VA 22902 434-956-4110 maru.cville@gmail.com

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March 12 - 13 and 19 - 20, 2022

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The Dish TRENDS, TASTEMAKERS, AND FOODS WE LOVE

Wine school EZE AMOS JOHN ROBINSON

Local sauvignon savant brings science to sipping with Teacher’s Pet Nat By Shea Gibbs

Knife&Fork 13

One-of-a-kind family-friendly Bar + Restaurant + Game Room

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The Dish

SUPPLIED PHOTO

K

ylie Britt knows the wizardry behind winemaking. And she wants you to know it, too.

“I think it’s important to know where wine comes from and the people who make it, but I want to share that in accessible ways,” says the aspiring consultant and current “wine specialist” at The Wool Factory.

Britt’s journey into wine science began at the University of Richmond, where she studied chemistry—among a slew of other subjects. She liked chem enough to start a Ph.D. in it, but soon found she was looking for a more applied brand of science. A job at a retail wine shop in Durham, North Carolina, gave her direction.

She found her next oeno-industry post at Michael Shaps Wineworks in Charlottesville.

Britt’s knowledge of wine and its production process grew, as did her own appreciation of the vine’s versatility, which led to her current Wool Factory job, where she organizes retail, does bottle service at Broadcloth, and helps educate staff.

Last year, Britt launched Teacher’s Pet Nat to provide outside customers wine education consulting. But COVID-era obstacles have held the business back, and for now, she’s using a Teacher’s Pet Nat-branded Instagram (@teachers_pet_nat) to push out pointers—slide shows on what makes wine sweet, different kinds of hybrid grapes, the spritzy piquette wine style, etc. She hopes to begin helping wine lovers with events and tastings, and restaurants with staff training as folks become more comfortable meeting in groups. “I’m still figuring out exactly where I want to be,” Britt says.

Britt’s dipped her feet in consulting through a few public education events—tastings outside of those she does weekly at The Wool Factory’s Workshop. She tries to build her educational events around themes: think sensory analysis or tasting through a scientific lens. And that’s something she’d like to continue as Teacher’s Pet Nat grows.

Since she’s moved to Virginia, Britt has become obsessed with the state’s booming winemaking practice. She comes to wine from a modern, rather than traditional, background—“I tasted meritage before a Bordeaux blend,” she says—and that helps her appreciate what she sees as the state’s strong suit: taking old-world techniques and turning them on their tête. “The culture of wine is there, and we’re figuring out how we fit into it,” she says.

Britt says some of the highlights of Virginia vino are producers’ willingness to experi-

Kylie Britt’s love of learning (and teaching) about wine led her to The Wool Factory, where she organizes retail, does bottle services at Broadcloth, and helps educate staff.

ment with new varietals, such as Austrian Blaufränkisch, and wine-cider hybrid styles, such as the co-fermented pét-nats at Patois Cider in Albemarle County.

So, what is all this about pét-nat anyway?

The term is short for pétillant naturel, a process by which winemakers let their juice ferment at least partially in the bottle. The finished products are light, semi-sparkling wines that can be unpredictable and exciting in terms of sweetness and flavor profile.

“Pét-nat is a sparkling wine that undergoes one fermentation rather than two,” Britt says.

“A lot of traditional sparklings use two— they’re still wines and you add carbonation.

Pét-nat takes advantage of the carbon dioxide produced during initial fermentation. Every bottle is unique, and it’s a pure representation of the fruit and the earth.”

Natural wines in general are all the rage, Britt says, but pét-nat is distinct because consumers can be sure of the process being used.

Folks making “natural” wine might eschew sulfites, or they might be low-intervention and/ or organic-certified. Other producers making great wines that are indeed natural might not pay to be designated as such.

If it’s all a little confusing, that’s where Teacher’s Pet Nat comes in. “It’s for nerds and newbies,” Britt says. “It’s wine education for everyone.”

Knife&Fork 15

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16 Knife&Fork

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The Dish

Granular on granola

UVA prof and family geek out and eat out to compile diner data

By Shea Gibbs

EZE AMOS

B

rian Nosek is into numbers. He’s also into breakfast.

Nosek, a psychologist at the University of Virginia, is a well-known champion of “open science,” a movement to make academic research and its findings accessible to everyone. “A lot of the public perception of psychology is about treatment and management of wellbeing,” Nosek says. “But a substantial portion of the field, of academic psychology, is about strong methodology.”

For his latest data project, Nosek commissioned two research assistants: his daughters, 14-year-old Haven and 12-year-old Joni.

“We love breakfast,” Nosek says. “My spouse sleeps in, and we have time in the morning to do stuff on the weekends. So it’s often, ‘Let’s go have breakfast somewhere.’”

But how to decide where to dine? Nosek says he and his daughters used Yelp as their go-to info source. But it didn’t tell them everything they wanted to know. Specifically, Nosek says Yelp doesn’t say much about the quality you can expect for your money.

The Noseks set out on an egg-zamination of their own. The researchers would eat at 50 places “known for their breakfast.” They would rate every restaurant on taste, presentation, menu, ambiance, and service. They would consider each variable in the context of price.

And in the spirit of open science, they would publish their data for all the world to see, explore for themselves, and perform new analyses.

“We wanted to share our ratings to tell other people about our experiences—give recommendations and inspire people to do fun projects like this on their own,” Haven Nosek says.

No word yet on whether anyone has taken the Noseks up on crunching those numbers. But, from the researchers’ perspective, the conclusions are in. The team’s number one overall breakfast spot in the area? Fill up your gas tank— it’s Thunderbird Cafe in McGaheysville, on Route 33 just outside of Massanutten. “It was really my style and yummy,” Joni Nosek says.

Quirk Cafe, Croby’s Urban Vittles, Guajiros Miami Eatery, Fig, and MarieBette Cafe & Bakery round out the top five overall. (Fig and MarieBette tie for fifth.) Quality Pie earns a

Some families debate over home fries or hash browns. Brian Nosek and his daughters combined a love of breakfast and research into a rating system based on taste, presentation, menu, ambiance, and service.

special honorable mention from the lead researcher; it lands third on taste but suffered overall due to ambiance issues during COVID. RIP to the breakfast joint that was top-rated on taste, Bluegrass Grill & Bakery. Charlie & Litsa’s South Main Street Cafe in Culpeper comes in second on the taste dimension. That’s the measurement where you find some traditionally heralded local breakfast places: Oakhurst Inn Cafe and Espresso Bar ranks fourth; Ace Biscuit & Barbecue, Blue Moon Diner, Bodo’s Bagels, and Fox’s Cafe (also now closed) all tie for the fifth taste spot with an average rating of 9.3.

Chains tend not to fare well with the selfstyled “Breakfast Bunch” (or the three “Munchateers,” if that’s your taste). Not a single restaurant with multiple identical locations makes their overall top-10 list. Not even Bodo’s.

IHOP rates reasonably well on taste and menu, and Taco Bell scores a surprise eighth in the service dimension.

For the eldest Nosek, the most surprising takeaway from the project was how little cost

seemed to matter to his intrepid research crew.

Presentation and ambiance are modestly correlated with what the Noseks spent, but taste, menu, and service are only slightly related. Donuts, for example, did well because of their affordability. “They’re delicious deathtraps and great value,” Nosek says. Duck Donuts drops in at third behind Thunderbird and Croby’s on the top-10 best value list.

Indeed, the research study sample on the whole is relatively low cost, Nosek says. Across all 50 restaurants, the Munchateers spent $9.91 per person on average, and that was for a hungry group trying multiple things. All in the interest of science, of course.

“I have a love of science and methodology, and I wanted to share some of that with [my daughters],” Nosek says. “The big debate is how much do we want to add new places to the list versus looking at test-retest reliability. I think we will definitely replicate our breakfast study.”

This article first appeared in C-VILLE Weekly.

Knife&Fork 17

The Dish

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The Dish

‘We all eat’

IMAGES COURTESY SUUBJECT

Local artist sees food as connection

By Carol Diggs

I

s cooking an art or a craft? Whichever side you come down on, cooking is clearly creative. That’s why Brittany Fan— painter, illustrator, graphic designer, photographer, food blogger, and self-professed “all-around maker”—loves it.

A native of Blacksburg, Fan came to UVA for a degree in studio art, art history, and arts administration and stayed for a master’s in education. But her intention to teach in elementary school turned into a career as an artist; she works for the Journey Group as a graphic designer.

Fan says she came to college with a sense that art was something that happens in white rooms, but soon realized it’s “something that should be out in the world, among people.”

From that perspective, she sees her role as an

artist as “connection—as a format for story-telling and a way of sharing stories.” And cooking (a skill she learned at home from her mother) is “the most approachable form of creativity—we all eat.”

While Fan’s blog is called The Culinary Artist, she doesn’t concentrate on creating new recipes from scratch or constructing visually fabulous food (“You can make anything look good—or at least attention-grabbing,” she says).

She may start with a recipe, but she usually adapts it as she goes. Sometimes she likes the result so much, she will replicate it over and over, and she uses the blog as a way to standardize and share her favorites—banana bread, chocolate chip cookies, and her variation on Katharine Hepburn’s brownies.

To Fan, there’s creativity in making even uncomplicated foods. During the pandemic, she made a lot of bread.

“It’s so simple—yeast, flour, salt, and water—but you get to watch this organism create something,” she says. “It’s both observation and meditation,” themes that are common in her paintings. But bread is also a communal food.

“Think of the images—passing bread or rolls at a meal, breaking bread, even the Christian imagery of bread,” she says. So last summer, Fan’s project was 50 different kinds of pizza. “I fed all my friends.”

Feeding others is part of Fan’s passion for food. “I love cooking for other people. I love hosting dinner parties, inviting people who otherwise might not spend time together.” Once or twice a year, she will have friends over to make Chinese dumplings, a communal event she remembers from her childhood. During the pandemic shutdown, she took samples of her dishes to friends for them to taste-test. “Right now I’m on a soup kick,” Fan says—a group of friends gathers for soup, bread, and salad.

Fan loves taking unusual ingredients and seeing what can be done with them; one of her blog posts is about hibiscus tea, made from hibiscus calyxes she got through her local CSA. Not all her creations merit sharing, however.

Last year, she took a stab at peony jelly. “It wasn’t bad,” she says. “Slightly fruity, sweet, and I’d put lemon in it.” But she hadn’t realized how much jelly she would end up with—and how little need she had for peony jelly. All in all, she decided, “I’d rather get jam from the store.”

What new foods lie ahead? “I’ve never made cinnamon rolls,” says Fan. “Maybe that’s on the list.”

Knife&Fork 19

The Dish

Consummate culinarian Collecting cookbooks is a way of life for Becky Calvert

By Caite Hamilton

How long have you been collecting cookbooks? What started the collection?

I’ve been acquiring cookbooks since college as I learned to cook. I met this Southern vegetarian guy (who is now my husband) who somehow thought I was a good Southern vegetarian cook, so I started keeping an eye out for books focused on the topic. I stumbled upon a Southern Living Southern Heritage “Vegetables” book at a yard sale, which I later discovered was part of a series. It took me a solid 20 years to collect the full series, but that book can probably be considered the start.

How many cookbooks do you have?

Somewhere between 250 and 300. The number fluctuates because I’m always adding on and frequently purge. I live in a small house,

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JOHN ROBINSON

B

ecky Calvert loves to cook. She’s held cooking and canning classes around town—places like the Charlottesville Cooking School, Market Central, The Happy Cook, The Spice Diva, and PVCC— for more than a decade, and always with a secret weapon: her cookbook collection. Numbering in the hundreds, it spans centuries and genres.

“Cookbooks fascinate me because they are more than just recipes—they capture little bits of history and culture through the lens of food,” Calvert says. “Cookbooks are an instruction manual on how to run a household and it’s fascinating to see how that has changed over time in a very practical format.”

She has 1930s cookbooks advertising electric appliances, a 1944 cookbook offering tips on how to meal plan on war rations, and one from the 1950s advising housewives to put on fresh lipstick to greet their husband at the end of the workday. Some include newspaper clippings, handwritten recipes, and torn notes.

“I pull some recipes from the internet, but the truth is, I love the feel of a book,” says the collector. “You can’t make notes or spill things on a computer screen the way you can a book.”

She offers a window into her collection on her Instagram account, @beckycollects, but she shared a few secrets with us, too.

Becky Calvert’s so that helps me keep it to a tight The spine is admittedly in rather cookbook collection, number. I have two bookcases rough shape. Supposedly, that was which she started that are devoted to just cookthe edition that Downton Abbey when she was in books and then a book shelf here used as a reference. college, numbers in and there throughout the house…

Best condition oldest are some the hundreds. and a stack or two in my bedadvertising cookbooks in mint room and usually a stack on the dining room condition dating to the 1920s but I’m not extable I’m in the middle of using for someactly sure what year. They were published to thing. They’re all over the house to be honest. help sell various products—everything from My husband has long been convinced he’s salad dressing, malt extract, baking powder, going to die in a crushing avalanche of my oranges to electric appliances. books and shoes. I’m supposed to be on a no I have reprints of some of the old standard net gain, but even he breaks that rule when influential cookbooks, like Virginia Housewife, it comes to cookbooks—he’s been known to The Cook’s Own Book and Housekeeping in Old buy them for one recipe he had somewhere Virginia (published in 1824, 1832, and 1879, that he thinks I need (like the pimento cheese respectively), but not original. recipe from the Garden & Gun cookbook).

What’s your favorite?

What’s the oldest?

That’s a hard one. I definitely have a soft spot Original oldest would have to be my 1912 Mrs. for Betty Crocker—the 1986 edition that I Beeton’s Book of Household Management, which bought for a friend that I ended up keeping belonged to my friend Abigail’s grandmother. has been my go-to cookbook since roughly

1989. I learned to cook from that one and have been known to take it with me when traveling.

(I always have a cookbook or two with me because you never know what you’ll need.)

Sentimental value is probably my Granny’s 1944 Women’s Home Companion Cook Book and my Aunt Loretta’s 1976 McCall’s Cooking School.

Those are the books they learned from and there is a lot of family history contained in them.

How many recipes have you made from them? Anything super weird?

All the books in my collection get used—I have a rule that every cookbook has to have at least three recipes in it that I refer to at least once a year or it gets purged. I give myself time to get to know a cookbook, though—I usually have to have had it at least three to five years before I part with it if it’s not being used. I try to rehome them with friends, so that should I need a recipe, I can request it.

The weirdest thing I’ve made from them was probably something found in a few of my old Southern cookbooks—it has a variety of names (including scalloped pineapple and pineapple casserole) but The Southern Sympathy Cookbook (Perre Coleman Magness, 2018) calls it “That Pineapple Thing.” It’s canned pineapple, sugar, a little bit of flour to hold it together, and cheddar cheese topped with crushed Ritz crackers combined with melted butter and pineapple juice. It’s weird but really, really good. Seriously. I took it to a potluck and those brave enough to try it all raved about it and went back for seconds.

What cookbook would you love to have that you don’t?

A slightly shabby, well-used one I stumble upon somewhere? I don’t know yet. Some of the coolest books I’ve gotten I’ve just stumbled on and thought, that needs a home. I got an original edition of Princess Pamela’s Soul Food Cookbook (1969) at a yard sale over 25 years ago. It wasn’t until Toni Tipton-Martin’s The Jemima Code that I realized what a find that was. I always thought it was a cool little book that not enough people knew about.

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The Dish

Small Kindness

EZE AMOS

Two-year-old coffee shop looks to grow on good intentions

Katie Kishore opened Kindness Cafe to give adults with cognitive disabilities structured, gainful employment and a place to feel like they’re part of something big.

By Shea Gibbs

K

indness Cafe + Play opened quietly during the first COVID-19 wave’s peak. Now, after battling pandemic-related challenges for almost two years, owner Katie Kishore is looking to expand on her mission: To give adults with cognitive disabilities structured, gainful employment and a place to feel like they’re part of something big.

“It has been wonderful—even getting going during the pandemic was great for us,” Kishore says. “Adults with disabilities often have a hard time engaging with the greater community, and during the pandemic that was even more so.”

Since its outdoor-only start in July 2020, Kindness Cafe has grown to employ eight part-

time workers. The cafe opened its indoor space in May 2021, and Kishore says the shop is finally developing the sense of community she always envisioned.

Kishore is considering multiple ways to give even more adults with unique skill sets the sense of structure and responsibility employment provides. One option would be to expand hours (located in the Brooks Family YMCA, the Kindness Cafe is currently open from 8am to noon). Another would be to open a second location.

“There are people that are asking us to join our team and be a part of it,” Kishore says. “We intentionally began this small, and we are lucky to be at the YMCA, which gives us flexibility. I’m not saying we need to be open 12 hours a day.”

Kishore, who has two daughters, one with Down syndrome, modeled Kindness Cafe after Bitty & Beau’s in Wilmington, North Carolina. She had seen a video about the coffee shop, which also employs adults with disabilities, and visited to see what it was all about in 2017.

Kishore ran a crowdfunding campaign to get off the ground in 2019 and launched Kindness Cafe about a year later. The cafe uses grant funding and community support, in addition to sales revenue, to thrive.

“It is beginning to feel like a real community for people with and without disabilities,” Kishore says. “The staff has been fantastic. They show up each day and do their best to have a positive impact on those around them.”

Knife&Fork 23

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Knife&Fork 25

Nine nosh spots look to carve their niche in Charlottesville’s dining scene When people look back on 2021-2022, what will they think of?

Okay, other than that.

With a little luck, it will be the new coffee shops, bakeries, and lunch counters that braved the elements to open their doors to the city’s hungry and thirsty. With a little luck, it will be that elegant cake they brought to a small gathering, that brilliantly executed latte they grabbed while strolling the Downtown Mall, that picture-perfect main course they enjoyed with a friend.

Because with a little luck, the following nine restaurants and cafés will be some of our new favorites for years to come.

New restaura Story by Shea Gibbs | Photography by Anna Kariel

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FRENCH TWIST RACHEL DE JONG has worked as a pas-

try chef for some of the world’s most accomplished culinary personalities— Ludo Lefebvre, Patrick O’Connell—but Cou Cou Rachou is her first solo gig.

Here, she’s creating seasonal cakes, traditional French pastries, and inspired breads by elevating the classics with her own natural, organic style.

Cou Cou Rachou doesn’t offer a set menu; the pastries rotate almost daily, giving De Jong freedom to flex her creativity. She’s in the process of optimizing her cake production, so while she loves making custom cakes to order, she plans to rotate three options seasonally going forward. Coming soon are choices like

pistachio and citrus and chocolate mousse with red fruit jam.

De Jong says several Cou Cou Rachou pastries are quickly becoming fan favorites and difficult to take off the daily list. For a past/present hybrid, check out the French onion croissant, inspired by Lefebvre’s renowned soup of the same name and oozing with caramelized sweet onions, thyme, black pepper, bay leaf, and local cheese. Or go sweeter with a croissant that features frangipane (almond pastry cream) spiked with loads of fresh citrus zest.

The secret to de Jong’s decadent croissants? “The two biggest things are patience and beurre d’isigny,” she says. Aka: “French butter, from Normandy.”

rant who dis?

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NEW YEAR NEW FOOD

MORE TO LOVE JUSTIN VAN DER LINDE’S come a long way

since he launched his Smoked BBQ Co. food trailer almost a decade ago. Back then, his stock-in-trade was a 250-gallon offset smoker and all the pulled pork, ribs, chicken, and beef he could crank out. Now, he’s expanded his culinary point of view to a wider selection of comfort food and sandwich styles.

“We don’t invent many new items,” van der Linde says of his new venutre, Taste Shack. “We just like to make a run at the classics our way.”

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Those classics include a housemade pastrami; van der Linde and his team start with a whole brisket, brine it, season it, smoke it, and pile it on a classic Reuben or in the Shack Pastrami, with Swiss cheese, cole slaw, tomato, onion, bread and butter pickles, and Shack Sauce. Then there’s the steak and cheese made with hand-trimmed, thinsliced rib-eye. “Every steak is made to order, and we use a signature roll that we get direct from New York,” van der Linde says. “We are probably the only place in town using real rib-eye.”

NEW TO THE COOP BIRDHOUSE IS THE

brainchild of an architect and communications pro, but you’d never know it for the inspired rotisserie chicken flocking out of their small kitchen.

Occupying the old Ace Biscuit & Barbecue space on Henry Avenue (Ace relocated one street over in 2020), Birdhouse roasts free-range, organic Cornish cross chickens on the spit before adding a glug of olive oil and more seasoning—sumac, which hits acidic, is the not-so-secret ingredient—and crisping the skin to order.

Tim Popa, who handles communications for a design firm by day, charts Birdhouse’s chicken work, while former architect Liz Broyles builds out the rest of the menu. Small plates like roasted squash and

green pozole soup gird the chicken-focused offerings. Broyles says the pozole “is the one thing I feel like I could eat every day and never get sick of.” Birdhouse sources the soup’s hominy from heirloom bean supplier Rancho Gordo in Napa, California, soaks the kernels in-house, and marries them with a tomatillo-based broth infused with poblano and jalapeño. Cilantro and rotisserie chicken finish the dish—“lots of layering,” Broyles says.

Birdhouse currently gets its chicken from Shenandoah Valley Organic in Harrisonburg, but Popa and Broyles are working to find local farmers to provide other bird breeds. “We’re still playing with things and don’t necessarily have a strict thing we’re going to adhere to,” Broyles says.

Knife&Fork 29

The Quirk experience Whether you’re looking for a happy hour location or an intimate dining restaurant Quirk has you covered. Stop in and treat yourself to our tasteful menus!

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NEW YEAR NEW FOOD

A SWEET SPOT THERE’S A SAYING

about too many cooks in the kitchen, but lucky for Cake Bloom, the same hasn’t proven true for bakers.

Susan Sweeney moved her cake business from the West Coast to Charlottesville in late 2019 and quickly pivoted to a home-delivery and small-party format due to 2020’s setbacks for wedding and other large-party suppliers. Sweeney’s sisters, Elizabeth, Mary, Sarah, and Paige, then joined the team, bringing to the turntable a variety of backgrounds and expertise in baking, event planning, and design.

Together, the Sweeneys have launched a new brick-and-mortar, cake-and-bubbles bar to pair their passions for baked goods and sparkling wine.

At the former Snowing in Space location, the sisters covered the former tenant’s Caddyshack murals and created a bright, modern atmosphere that’s modeled after a retail/restaurant hall down under.

“We have a sister (and business partner) living in Australia whose recipe ideas, aesthetic, and sense of humor infuse everything we do here,” Sweeney says.

And if you try only one thing when you hit the new Cake Bloom bar, make it the five-slice sampler of the Sweeney’s rotating seasonal signature flavors, which, she suggests, you pair with a bottle of Cava Aurelia Brut Nature Gran Reserva.

Knife&Fork 31

NEW YEAR NEW FOOD

FARMACY CAFÉ WIFE-AND-HUSBAND TEAM

Jessica and Gabino Lino have taken fusion to the next level with FARMacy Café (left). Not only do they blend Executive Chef Lino’s native Mexican food with Italian, Indian, Asian, and classic American comfort influences, but they also try to make it as nutrient rich as possible.

Jessica Lino (née Hogan), who’s worked nearly every job in hospitality on top of spending years in retail, started FARMacy as a superfood smoothie delivery service, then bought a food truck with her husband (boyfriend at the time). They began focusing FARMacy on local, organic, superfood Mexican fusion and opened their new restaurant in the CODE building courtyard earlier this year.

FARMacy’s best seller is the Super Naan Taco: garlic Indian-style flatbread stuffed with organic al pastor pork, “super guac,” lettuce, minced kale, cilantro, onion, feta, and sour cream. The café’s just started offering breakfast items, as well, like a burrito with local eggs, chorizo, avocado crema, raw pepper jack cheese, minced kale, and black beans. “So full of flavor—it’s a great way to start the day,” Lino says.

ANSWER THE CALL LAURA FONNER MADE

her name as one of Charlottesville’s best chefs at Duner’s, where she settled in for many years turning out acclaimed, upscale-but-accessible, American-fusion fare.

Since leaving the Ivy Road restaurant, Fonner’s bounced around a bit, but great talent usually finds its place, and for Fonner, that place may well be Siren (right).

Focused on American- and Mediterranean-inflected seafood, the new Ridge Road dining room (in the former Shebeen space) is part of the Champion Hospitality Group, which now has five in-demand restaurants under its um-beerla.

Fonner, who’s a mother of three and former “Guy’s Grocery Games” winner, has held various roles with Champion since summer 2020.

The Siren menu is short and simple, opening with soups and salads, such as the crispy fried lentil falafel with tzatziki, quinoa tabbouleh, and feta on mixed greens, turning to shareables like curried yogurt-marinated grilled shrimp with harissa tomato jam and crispy fried chickpeas, and crescendoing with entrées like rockfish with kabocha squash gnocchi, mushrooms, and lemon beurre blanc.

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CEL E BR AT ION S

COOK I NG & W I NE C L ASS ES

A L A CART E D INING

Reimagining the Red Pump Experience this Spring

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NEW YEAR NEW FOOD

SAY “CHEESE!” ASK A FEW

chefs what they like to eat at home. They’ll likely say something simple but delicious, made with great ingredients treated gently, respectfully, properly. For cheesemonger Carolyn Leasure and chef Zack Leasure, the answer is deliciously predictable.

“I owned an artisan cheese shop in D.C., and I would bring home all these delicious cheeses from small farms,” Carolyn Leasure says. “We would make grilled cheese.”

The couple’s home kitchen experiments—with different toppings, compound butters, cheese combinations—led to some happy customers when Leasure began offering the sandwiches at her

fromagerie. C’ville got its first taste of the results when ooey gooey crispy opened in the CODE building in mid-February.

If you’re a first-timer, what should you request when you come to the counter? You could go with one of the flavorful, hearty salads, like the Blustery Fall, with roasted celery root, arugula, celery hearts, lemon-soaked currants, toasted hazelnuts, brie, and sherry vinaigrette. But you’ll probably end up with something ooey and gooey. Leasure suggests the brie, truffle butter, and crushed potato chips cheeser. Her husband’s favorite is the fontina val d’aosta, coated and crisped with sage butter. “It’s so simple but so delicious,” she says.

Knife&Fork 35

NEW YEAR NEW FOOD

WINE BUZZ NICK LEICHTENTRITT FOUNDED the busi-

ness that would become Milli Coffee Roasters in 2012. Tragically, he died seven years later at the age of 34. The business survives today, though, having been shepherded through the hard times

by Leichtentritt’s wife, Nicole, and later sold to regular Milli Coffee patron John Borgquist.

It was Borgquist, the coffee conglomerate’s somewhat accidental successor, who launched Milli Second Café & Wine Bar in December last year. Another new CODE building culinary destination, Milli Second adds alcoholic beverages to the group’s repertoire; Borgquist suggests trying the rotating Virginia wine flight. “It shows off the best of local wines, including wines that are tough to find anywhere but the winery itself,” he says.

Of course Milli Second still offers the goods in the grinds, like pour overs using micro-lots of green coffee roasted 100 grams at a time. It’s “coffee you’d otherwise have to get on an airplane to taste,” Borgquist says.

Milli Second has more to roll out in the coming months, but its Thursday night free wine tastings have already been a hit, Borgquist says.

The wines are new every week, and like the café’s Virginia wines and micro-lot coffee, they’re drinks you’d have a hard time landing anywhere else.

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YOU’RE WELCOME KITTY ASHI NEEDED

more space. Fans of her family’s Thai delicacies at Monsoon Siam had asked for years about catering services and a place to host special occasion dinners. But the beloved restaurant just wasn’t big enough to answer the call.

Ashi had her eye on a spot that could pad her Thai empire, though, and along with her brother and his wife, a chef, she opened Pineapples Thai Kitchen in the old Coca-Cola building last year. “I loved this space so much when it was still Timbercreek Market,” she says. “And it’s been empty for a long time.”

Pineapples have strong ties to southern Thai food and represent hospitality.

Welcoming patrons to the Pineapples Thai Kitchen menu are appetizers like the Punim Pok Pok Salad, with green papaya, grape tomatoes, string beans, roasted peanuts, and spicy lime dressing, and Num Tok Pork Belly, with red onion, scallion, cilantro, spring mix lettuce, and dressing in a rice cracker bowl.

Standout entrées are the crispy chicken with roasted cashews and the biyani style yellow curry with bone-in beef rib, served with roti. For those who like their yum yum with a side of pain pain, the Southern Heat brings it with minced chicken, kaffir lime leaf, yellow curry powder, rice paper, and steamed veggies.

Knife&Fork 37

The Last Bite

EZE AMOS

Ooh, aah If “desserts” is “stressed” backwards, here’s one to take the edge off: Brasserie Saison’s lavender crème brûlée. To make it, chef Chris Humphrey steeps dried lavender from Ontario’s Pepper Tree Spice Co. in heavy cream for 20 minutes. After the cream is infused with the spring flower, it gets mixed with egg yolk and sugar, then strained and cooked in a water bath. The result—which Humphrey says he makes more than 50 of each week it’s in season— is soft and sweet, with delicate floral notes that feel practically luxurious. Maybe take an extra one to go and—hear us out—down it while you soak in a calming bubble bath.

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