CRUISING TASMANIA

Cape Wickham Lighthouse

Country race days are typically fun occasions and King Island’s was no exception offering an eclectic mix of harness racing and regular horse-racing events. Young children delighted in the event’s pomp and pageantry while their elders socialised over sparkling wine and beers. COVID-19 seemed a universe away from this place. The following day we rented a car as I was keen to visit Grassy Harbour on the eastern side of the island since it is described in the Tasmanian Anchorage Guide (TAG) as the preferred anchorage. While the harbour itself is well protected there is little of interest for the visiting yachtie. The nearest settlement, Grassy, is a steep climb over four kilometres away and offers few amenities except the Wild Harvest Restaurant. By contrast, Currie is an easy five-minute walk from its harbour and has everything the traveller needs including a pub, supermarket, bakery, pharmacy, two hardware stores and rental cars. Currie Harbour’s only shortcoming was that it is exposed to strong westerly weather. We drove to an ancient calcified forest although, technically, just the roots were calcified, not the trees, but the name ‘calcified roots’ does not have quite the same ring to it. The day’s highlight however was lunch at the King Island Dairy. The island is famous for its cheeses and we were not disappointed by the sumptuous cheese platter washed down by a delightful Tasmanian Pinot Gris. After lunch we drove north to Australia’s tallest lighthouse at Cape Wickham which rises to an impressive 48 metres. Our time ashore had been conveniently timed to allow a front to pass across Bass Strait. Conditions had greatly subsided by the time we departed the following day destined for Ann Bay on the northwest coast of Tasmania. We weighed anchor at sunrise (05:28) to make the most of the light. Four hours later King Island dropped astern and we entered Bass Strait, motor sailing into the 18-knot headwind rather than adopting a zig-zag course. At 15:30 we passed the oddly-named Black Pyramid – the top is white, not black. Thirty minutes later the wind picked up to 22 knots and its direction shifted slightly to the east making it possible to sail without motors and average six knots. Around 17:00 we quietly dipped below 40.644°S, the latitude of Woolnorth Point, the northernmost point of the main Tasmanian island. This meant that we were now sailing along Tasmania’s west coast, albeit twenty miles offshore. The day’s pure sailing was short-lived as the wind faded two hours later and we reluctantly fired up the ‘iron sail’. Tasmania’s west coast, which stretches for 180 nautical miles from north to south, is mountainous, sparsely populated and lashed by wild weather at all times of the year. It is also undeniably beautiful. Numerous peaks form a patchwork of mountain ranges that parallel the coast, the largest of which is the West Coast Range. The trick to sailing comfortably in this part of the world is to avoid the low-pressure systems that move in from the west bringing high winds and big seas. Our first taste of Tasmania’s mountainous magnificence was the spectacular Mount Cameron West which rises from the northern end of Ann Bay. It beckoned us to admire its shapely contours as it basked in crepuscular golden rays. We anchored in the south east corner of the bay at 21:08, 15 hours and 10 minutes and 76 nautical miles since departing. Unfortunately we had no time to go ashore and could only savour this place by twilight. The following day, with 88 nautical miles to cover, we set out at 05:00. We were not having much luck with the wind which was non-existent to light. The so-called Roaring Forties had temporarily lost some of their roar. At 06:05 we passed West Point, Tasmania’s westernmost point, and by midday we were abeam of the aptly named Sandy Cape. We motored at a leisurely 5.2 knots to conserve fuel and one good thing about motoring is that it loudly announces a vessel’s presence to the local wildlife. At 11:30 we were visited by a pod of approximately two dozen dolphins. Sometimes dolphins accompanied us for fifteen minutes or longer while at other times their visits would be fleeting. The landscape unfolding off the port bow was mesmerising as the mountains kept increasing in grandeur. For happy hour we enjoyed some of our delicious King Island Dairy cheese so our visual and gustatory senses were under simultaneous assault. It was 22:00 when we finally reached Pilot Bay, the man-made anchorage that lies between Cape Sorell and the breakwater at the entrance to Macquarie Harbour. It is easy to approach from the north and is the perfect place to wait for the right conditions before entering the harbour. The narrow entrance, known as Hells Gate, is subject to very strong tidal flows. I recommend consulting the TAG and studying the charts ahead of time. The following day we had a leisurely 08:13 start and a smooth passage through the gate arriving at Strahan two and half hours later. Strahan is the only surviving port on the west coast of Tasmania. In the 1800s it primarily supported mining and logging activities. These days a small fishing fleet operates out of the port but it is mostly a hub for tourism. Our first call of duty was to refuel. The fixed wharf, designed to accommodate large commercial vessels, was not very friendly for yachts, especially with an onshore wind. We then anchored in nearby Risby Cove before returning to shore by dinghy. Eleven days of being at sea had made my crew desperate for one thing – a laundromat! Their excitement for laundering was only matched by their desire for cold beer so we spent the next couple

Arriba at Farm Cove

of hours alternating between the pub and the laundromat. Later we explored Strahan on foot which took less than an hour. Learning about the town’s old logging and milling days at Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill was particularly interesting. Huon Pine was highly prized for its fine grain and rot resistance and quickly became the wood of choice in Tasmania in the 1800s. The trees take five hundred years to reach maturity and some are known to be three thousand years old. Today they are protected and only trees that fall naturally may be harvested. At first we’d considered staying in Strahan for the night but once assembled on board we decided to find a more secluded spot. At 15:46 we weighed anchor and motored into a south easterly wind that was gusting to 25 knots. Macquarie Harbour, which is sometimes described as a shallow fjord, is about 15 nautical miles long from northwest to southeast and four nautical miles wide. There are over a dozen anchorages and it is possible to find shelter from any direction. We chose Farm Cove, 18 nautical miles away, where we anchored at Pine Point in mill-pond calm conditions. King Island Dairy cheese was once again everyone’s happy hour choice. The following morning we motored 3.7 nautical miles across to Sarah Island accompanied by dolphins. The island has two jetties; a large jetty on the southern shore which is used by tourism operators and a smaller one on the eastern shore for everyone else. We went ashore at 08:45 and had the island to ourselves. Sarah Island was the site of Tasmania’s earliest penal settlement established in January 1822. A remote island within a remote island, it was intended to be escape-proof and to inflict the harshest punishment on the worst offenders. The convicts were initially put to work chopping down Huon pines for shipment to Hobart and beyond until someone had the bright idea of exporting the wood in the form of constructed ships. For a short period it became the largest shipbuilding operation in the Australian colonies. The settlement only lasted 11 years before it was superseded by Port Arthur. The latter is perhaps best known for modern-day brutality, namely the 1996 Port Arthur massacre, a mass shooting in which 35 people were killed. We made our own escape at 10:30 just as the tourists from a giant power catamaran descended upon the island. For the next two hours we motored leisurely up the majestic Gordon River. We had the river to ourselves until a couple of miles before Heritage Landing when we were passed by the tourist boat we’d dodged on Sarah Island. There is only room for one vessel at the landing and commercial operators get first dibs so we continued upriver another half an hour before circling back. The tourist boat was gone when we returned and we enjoyed the short nature walk in solitude. Our experience of the Gordon River and its wilderness was as fleeting as it was wonderful. It is possible to sail much further upriver but at

Sarah Island ruins

14:09 we reluctantly turned back. Upon exiting the river we set sail for the Kelly Basin, named after James Kelly, who entered Macquarie Harbour in 1816. The local Toogee people no doubt knew of its existence for millennia. That evening we anchored in the shallow waters of West Pillinger, a ghost town with one dilapidated shack. The TAG refers to two metres of water beside the ruined wharf but we found only 1.4 metres and anchored elsewhere. West Pillinger was once a thriving government town but the real action was in nearby East Pillinger, about 1km over water to the east. In the late nineteenth century it was a booming mining town of 1,000 people until it was abandoned in 1924. Dense forest has now reclaimed the site and only a smattering of abandoned equipment and ruins remain. The trail between the two Pillingers was extremely overgrown and hard work. Liam and I therefore decided to only walk back halfway. From there we swam to Arriba whereupon I fetched the dinghy by kayak and then retrieved the rest of our party waiting patiently on the East Pillinger jetty. The following afternoon we returned to Strahan to enjoy some creature comforts for our last night in Macquarie Harbour. We hoped to return to the pub we’d enjoyed a few days earlier but it was a Saturday night and it was as if half of Tasmania had descended upon the small town. Disappointed, we hopped into the dinghy to return to Arriba, reconciling ourselves to another boat meal. At the last moment, on a whim, I altered course for Regatta Point where there was a tavern. Like the pub before, the tavern was packed but unlike the pub, there was no line and within minutes we were warmly welcomed to a table. The sunset view over the cove was superb and the meals were surprisingly good. This would be our last taste of civilization for some time as the next day we would set sail for Port Davey.

Alan Noble

Cruising Tasmania Part 3 continued on page 32

CREW WANTED

Looking for crew to sail one way from Southport, QLD to Noumea, New Caledonia in early July. anoble@gmail.com

Future Club Events

Seafood Spectacular | Saturday 30 July Join us for a gourmet seafood experience showcasing the best local, succulent seafood South Australia has to offer. Guest speaker Tracey Tito, Skipper of ‘Justagirl’ and Producer of the first all-female fishing show on Australian TV, ‘Get Hooked with Team Justagirl’. Fish ID quiz and great prizes to be won!

Boating Conversations | Friday 12 August (TBC) Topic of conversation ~ Servicing your winch introducing the Power Winch. Supported by North Haven Marine. To dine prior to the conversation please book ahead on 8248 4222 or reserve a table online via our website.

Commodore’s Dinner | Saturday 17 September Save the date for our annual Commodore’s Dinner. Enjoy an evening of scrumptious food and fabulous entertainment.

Don’t miss out on what’s sure to be a spectacular affair!

Boating & Fishing Showcase | Friday 21 October

The Fishing Association invites all members, friends & family to this annual event to mingle over drinks and cocktail food. Major Sponsor, Port River Marine are excited to have on display a variety of boats for your viewing.

CYCSA Opening Day | Saturday 29 October Save the date for the biggest day on the Club’s calendar... Our annual Opening Day! Sail past, presentations, live entertainment and much more. More information will be available closer to the event date.