Compound Magazine

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COMPOUND JUNE 2014

A UNISEX STREET CULTURE MAGAZINE FOR SUID AFRIK!

R24,95

LONDON

COMPOUND

CONTENTS FEATURE 1. THE RETURN OF THE 90’S

FEATURE 2.THE YEAR OF GENTLEMAN

COMPOUND

CONTENTS NEWS

1. GRADUATE FASHION WEEK 2014 2. LONDON COLLECTIONS: MENS 2014

STREET STYLE 1. CAPTURED BY OUR FAVOURITE STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHERS

COMPOUND

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

COMPOUND started out as a conversation between myself and Bridgett. I had explained to her that since relocating to London I had noticed that the majority of the South African fashion market was behind a great deal with regards to catching up on trends as quickly as the rest of the world.

We expressed to each other about how we wished we could get a bi-annual or even monthly breakdown of what’s hot-andhappening in some of the fashion capitals around the globe. But the question remaind, “What would make this sort of breakdown unique?”

The Fashion Week highlights that already fill the pages of commercial publications isn’t enough. Moreover, younger crowds don’t have the time to be flipping through pages and pages of catwalk images.

So we had it in mind to address these two issues.

We needed a publication that would still give a breakdown of what was trending across the globe, not merely from the perspective of a spectator but from the perspective of an on-the-ground civilian. Basically, how runway trends were being translated into everyday style. It was then when we knew that streetstyle would be the most rewarding angle. And then to further break away from the mould of luxury design which saturate most catwalks, we thought it would great to offer our readers a look at diverse styles of dress in different parts of these influential fashion capitals and COMPOUND chose for London to be the first fashion destination Styles in the east are vastly different from what you may find in the west. A look into what inspires London fashion would not be complete without a brief meander into some of the cities most colourful and cultured a la mode neighbourhoods.

COMPOUND

LONDON The hipsters in Shoreditch have something different and more eclectic to offer as opposed to the conservative and classic Portebello Road frequenters in Notting Hill.

CAPE TOWN

NEW YORK

and photo-opp ready fashion bloggers.

Our male readers will enjoy a selection of original and fascinating fine design work and style inspiration set to breathe renewed meaning to your current wardrobe.

LONDON’S FASHION INDUSTRY BURSTS WITH AN ENERGY THAT IS UNLIKE ANY THERE IS EDUCATION IN FASHION. OUR OTHER FASHION CAPITAL. DESIRE IS TO EXPAND THE KNOWLEDGE OF VARIED FASHION CULTURE. While embracing the fact that the South African fashion industry is another medium A word of thanks is undoubtedly owed to our through which the nation’s dynamic culture readership because it is certain that without is expressed, it’s still great to develop a varied you, fashion obsessed style junkie writers taste for what is trending in other parts such as ourselves wouldn’t have jobs. You alof the globe. COMPOUND offers just that. low me, to do what I love.

We aim to please our young, dynamic and The fact that you’re willing and ready to read fashion innovative readership by catering is already a platform upon which I am able to for all your varied tastes from the catwalk, vent my latest ramblings about what I think the high-street and everything in-between. should be of interest to YOU! Thank you and Each issue will focus on a different fashion enjoy the issue. capital where robust and vibrant streets swarm with eager fashion photographers

#TRENDING

LONDON STREET STYLE CAPTURED BY OUR FAVOURITE STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHERS

WAYNE TIPPETS “IT’S NOT JUST THE CLOTHES. IT’S THE PEOPLE WHO WEAR THEM.”

#TRENDING

MIRELLA RODRIGUES EAST LONDON: BRICK LANE

TRENDING

JOSHUA WOODS LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN

TRENDING

NEWS

BRITAINS YOUNG DESIGNERS SHOWCASE THEIR LATEST WORK AT THIS YEAR’S GRADUATE FASHION WEEK

The countries best in up-and-coming designers gathered crowds at this years Graduate Fashion Week with Grace Weller of Bath Spa University taking home the prize.

THE TRUMAN BREWERY served as host for this year’s Graduate Fashion Week. The event took place from the 31st of May to the 3rd of June. Brick Lane was humming and lively with some of the capital’s most eclectic and up-to-the-minute fashionables.

We, of course, headed over to witness the hustle and bustle of what east London’s most stylish had on offer.

Fashion students undoubtedly made for interesting subjects as they all appeared in droves transforming the sidewalks and markets of Brick Lane into ever-ready photo opportunities. Inside, however, Nottingham Trent University garnered hearty appreciation when Sho Takemura unleashed her eccentric and exuberant designs.

Audiences didn’t fail to marvel at the innovation and originality Sho’s designs embodied. After the show a chicly dressed student, Tracey McDonald said, “Some of Sho’s creations reminded me of Olivier Rousteing’s designs for Balmain at Paris Fashion Week this year, particularly the model that was wearing the neck

and the mask sheltered in embroidery and chunky pearls.” She also added, “The model who was in the outfit made-up of magazine papers was very Chanel-esque post their supermarket fashion show in Paris.”

“SOME OF SHO’S CREATIONS REMINDED

ME OF OLIVIER ROUSTEING’S DESIGNS FOR BALMAIN AT PARIS FASHION WEEK THIS YEAR” -TRACEY MCDONALD

NEWS

2014 GRADUATE FASHION WEEK | THE TRUMAN BREWERY Of the forty universities that showcased their work, Bath Spa University came out on top.

Grace Weller managed to scoop the award for Best Womenswear Designer as well as the George Gold Award worth ÂŁ10,000!

George is an apparel brand housed by ASDA of whom sponsor the entire Graduate Fashion Week event. A South African event which may hold similar reference to this is the Annual Graduate Fashion Show which is hosted by The Collective in Port Elizabeth, Eastern Cape.

Just across from the trumen brewery, loud 30s music was blaring through speakers. this atmosphere truly set the tone of what is east london is about. It was inbetween shows that we once again got to see what sense of style was in this eclectic exciting borough of GFW2014: Sho Takemura creates mask London.

and neck piece covered in beads and

by Cynthia Gwebu pearl embroidery

NEWS

INTERNATIONAL DESIGN HOUSES ARE GAINING INTEREST IN LONDON’S MENSWEAR SHOWCASE

London Collections: Men will be hosting yet another menswear showcase where British 30-something designers demonstrate their work. But more excitingly Moschino, tom Ford, Burberry Prorsum and Alexander McQueen join the party.

All eyes will be on mens fashion as London Collections: Men fashion week commences today, 15 June. But not only will we get to witness some of Britain’s most creative menswear designers showcase their work, internationally recognized luxury brands have also expressed interest in the exhibitions.

Jeremy Scott, creative director and designer for Italian label Moschino, has elected to show his latest in menswear in London.

Alongside him will be fellow American designer Tom Ford as well as British labels Burberry Prorsum and Alexander McQueen.

THe group of young designers presenting their material at this years showcase expectaadly breathe a breath of fresh air into how modern menswear ought to be depicted. According to designer Jonathan Saunders, this newness is vital.

“Fashion is reaction. It’s about what people are talking about, what happened last season.. If you’re going to make a man go into the shops and buy something new every season, then newness is important.”

Chris John Millington, Liam Chennells, House of Nines

NEWS

While labels in Milan and Paris have been showcasing menswear seperately for the past fifteen years, their designers all range between the ages of 45-80. In the UK, however, the newly appointed head of Loewe only enters his thirty’s this year.

London Collections: Men new talent Craig Green is only 27 while the inaugural winner of the BFC/GQ Designer Fashion Fund, Christopher Shannon, is only 33.

“Stale is a word that is often applicable to menswear – where, even at designer level, there is reliance on the tailored suit and casual basics including chinos, cotton shirts and sweaters, which demand little or no design input.” - Alexander Fury, Independent.co.uk

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MENS IN NUMBERS • 60+ designers showcasing their collections • 45 countries will be sending press to cover the event • 28 accredited streetstyle photographers at the major show venues • 19 official events on the LC:M schedule including receptions, parties and dinners.

• 22 cars in the official LC:M fleet • 1 speech given by London mayor Boris Johnson about the heritage of mens fashion in Britain

And just incase you didnt realise just how big of an event this shall be, Matches.com have a breakdown in number concerning the much anticipated showcase.

by Cynthia Gwebu

FEATURE

FEATURE

YEAR OF THE GENTLEMAN think tinie tempah and david gandy. these dapper men have reintroduced the culture of gentleman-hood. stylist pete abbot shares insider style tips

I’m

walking down the agonizingly exciting length that is Oxford Street and midst my journey, my eyes are greeted by a most trendy and fashionable crowd. After a quick right and a short left I find myself in Carnaby Street where I meet the gaze of a more than dapperly dressed gentleman. His donning, what must be, a custom tailored tweed blazer which exudes all the trappings of opulence and grace courtesy of a multicoloured bowtie. Interesting choice.

I glance down and find his legs clad in dark skinny leg chinos. They end just below his calf region in turn leaving his ankles bare and vulnerable to the gentle breeze of lively London. Further down, a pair of classic Oxford Brogues, possibly Grenson, complete his look. Startled by my own staring, I swiftly move to the right removing myself from his path and he casually resumes his journey to wherever it is dapperly dressed men go. I am left reeling at just how well he has pulled off “Urban-Chic-Preppy-Geek”.

FEATURE After an unrelentingly busy hour of doing obligatory Saturday afternoon shopping and miscellaneous errands, I head into Starbucks and order what has become my usual, a Grande Caramel Frappuccino.

After a few minutes of regaining my equilibrium, I take another observatory peep outside paying attention to the dapperly dressed passer-by’s.

I can’t help but note how the overall manner in which men’s dress has changed and for the better too. Gone are the overly baggy denim trousers that hang below barely covered derrières. They have been upgraded for slim leg trousers and even sometimes and more surprisingly, stylish joggers. There seems to be an eclectic mix of urban street-wear and geeky-preppy looks dominating the high-street.

It’s the year of the gentleman and it would seem some more noteworthy and popular faces are in agreement

“MEN ARE STILL

QUITE SCARED OF THE CONNOTATIONS OF LOOKING GAY...

BUT DRESSING WELL CAN BE EASY” - DAVID GANDY British musician and ELLE 2014 Style Award winner, Tinie Tempah is exemplary when it comes to bringing this trend to life.

He was in his element at London Fashion Week this year where he was snapped in debonair getups and furthermore featuring in best dressed columns.

Ex-model and frankly, smoulderingly good-looking David Gandy dons the dapper look just as well. Having managed to cross the line from model to celebrity, Mr Gandy recently divulged to VOGUE UK saying that he wishes to promote great dressing for men, adding that it shouldn’t be difficult.

“Men are still quite scared of the connotations of looking gay...” he says. “But dressing well can be easy. You don’t have to buy a suit from the most expensive labels - you can pick one up from Zara or Marks & Spencer and for an extra £20 or £30 you could have it tailored to fit you perfectly - and nothing really looks better than a tailored suit. And because we’re limited to jeans, T-shirts and suits, it’s important to be confident with accessories to look good.”

FEATURE

Pete Abbot, an established stylist in the London area shared his thoughts regarding the classic look of the gentleman. “Masculinity in fashion is constantly being challenged. The industry naturally allows for boundaries to be pushed and rules to be broken. But since the look of the gentleman is traditional and classic, designers and stylist have opted to give it a revised, more alluring and trendy appeal.”

“THE KEY IS TO DEVELOP A

STYLE THAT BEST SUITS YOU AND ULTIMATELY MAKES YOU FEEL CONFIDENT.” - PETE ABBOT

“Moreover, the look of the gentleman can be interpreted in a variety of ways. There is preppy geek as is pulled-of impeccably by the likes of Gandy and Tinie. “Then there is a myriad of 60s inspired attire which is a look that holds onto the concept of the pocket square and bowtie quite firmly.

“But when attempting this look, the key is to develop a style that best suits you and ultimately makes you feel confident.” ”Begin by investing in a decent blazer and to echo the words of David Gandy, set aside a healthy amount of cash for a good tailor.

A well suited and fitted blazer is half the job done.”

Most importantly, there is no other city that does menswear better than London.

Events like London Collections: Men is indeed another opportunity for men to pay attention and get interested in selfimprovement through fashion. It’s “in” to take care of yourself. It’s in to look good.

Read our news article to find out more about mens fashion week!

FEATURE

TIME WARP TO THE 90’S

SPICE GIRLS. RIHANNA’S ALWAYS HEADLINING BARE BUM AND BOOBS. QUIRKY MODELS. THANK GOD FOR THE NINETY’S

F

ashion has once again proved its cyclical nature with the reintroduction of trends from previous decades and this time, we appear to have exited the time machine at a point dedicated to the ninety’s.

Happy to lead the wave of reminiscence has to be Rihanna. We’re only halfway into 2014 and the We Found Love singer has made headlines for some relatively risqué red carpet looks. THe latest ensemble to cause a stir was the Adam Salman Swarovski Crystal gown.

While the gown recieved mixed reactions, T-Boz, member of 90s R&B/Rap group TLC, did not hold her tongue as she slammed the Pour It Up singer for always having to expose her body so she could sell records.

“Every time I see you, you don’t have to be naked.

It’s hard for us to say anything because any time we do, they say, ‘Oh, TLC must be jealous,’ but it is what it is. I call a spade a spade. We became the biggest selling girl group with our clothes on, and that says a lot. It’s easy to sell sex. We could go around with booby cakes all day long.” Although TLC has since tried to clear the air, we can’t help but sit in Rihanna’s corner for this one.

THere have been countless times when celebrities have bore it all and supermodel Kate Moss was one of the few. In 1993, she donned a sheer gown under which she only wore black knickers alone.

Pop icon Cher, also donned a sheer gown on the Oscar red carpet in the 90s and although these may have been considered fashion faux pas, any fashion lover would relish the fact Rihanna’s portrayal of the sheer dress was flawless.

Rihanna at the 2014 CFDA Awards

FEATURE

THE SASSY 90S SUPERMODEL

We’re so used to seeing sullen faced models strutting down the catwalk with little energy.

Models back in the 90’s had a whole lot of sass and you could sense their presence from miles away.

At the Stella McCartney show during London Fashion Week, we got to see models actually having fun. The Burberry show which took place at London Fashion Week this will be hard to forget when 21yo Cara Delevigne bravely recorded an Instagram video mid-catwalk. Cara continued the quirky behaviour with fellow model Joan Smalls as they danced the length of the Stella McCartney runway.

“Things seemed a world away from when Linda, Cindy, Claudia, Christy, Naomi and latterly, baby Kate stormed the fashion world like the supersassy, take-no-shit big league household names like they were.

“Who can forget Linda’s alleged misquote, that she wouldn’t get out of bed for less than $10,000? They ruled the roost and bounced down the catwalk like they owned it (most iconically, for Versace).”

Now it seems, designers want this qualitiy back in their walking mannaquins. Premier’s Alex Shah explains that this change has to do with the presence of social media and the internet. “These girls have a voice now and it’s used as a currency and building your personal brand is now paramount to being a model- it’s no longer enough just being a pretty face.

“Clients want girls with big social media figures.

They want more for their money, so they will have cross promotion written in to their contracts.

We help our models manage their profiles and we would definitely intervene if they posted something via Twitter, or Instagram that intefered with a client.” These girls are breathing life into the industry and we absolutely love it.

FEATURE THINGS WE LOST IN THE FIRE

Another 90’s trend we didn’t quite anticipate coming back were the sky-high ultra thick platforms. Matter-of-fact, British designer Stella McCartney’s rendition were rather popular where the Kristy pump was frequently adorned by fashionista’s and trend setters. High-street retailers Topshop and River Island have picked up on the look offering obscenely low prices in comparison to Stella’s rendition.

Knee-high socks for Spring or Winter have also made a return with stars like Rita Ora and Katy Perry rocking the look. When trying to channel this look, think Cher in the 90s classic Clueless.

We would, however, recommend keeping in mind these tips fashion blogger Alyssa Garrison has so you don’t end up looking like a teenybopper school girl.

6 TIPS FOR YOUR KNEE-HIGHS

1. With sheer tights underneath 2. With shorts 3. Scrunched down with knee-high or over-theknee boots 4. With a short skirt and oversized chunky sweater 5. Layered over patterned tights 6. With ankle booties We absolutely adored these trends and we can’t help but wonder if we’ll ever go as far back as the 80s or 70s.

“1999 GWEN STEFANI IS REALLY ‘IN’ RIGHT NOW.”