Issue 27/3
May / June / July 2013
www.oaxacatimes.com
Mezcal, hispanic
origin, not spanish Writer by Karina Aviléz | La Jornada Newspaper
The archaeological furnaces are located in Tlaxcala, by ethnographic analogy, very similar to existing furnaces used in the cooking of maguey for producing mezcal
T
he trace led to the year 400 BC. Found pots, pans, ovens, ie a form of social organization, and then the real story: mezcal distillation of Spanish not introduced to our lands, as has been done since colonial believe, but it is a process performed much earlier, since pre. Evidence: the ovens found containing residues of maguey. And it seems incredible now there are still indigenous groups that perform the production of mezcal as their ancestors. In fact, these communities are located in areas mezcaleras highest in the country, like in ancient times.
Research by anthropologists from the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM), Mari Carmen Serra Puche, Jesus Lazcano Arce and Carlos Manuel de la Torre, under the direction of the first, is demonstrating this knowledge that, if confirmed, would establish that does not distilling mezcal in 1650, as indicated by the first reports, but 400 years before Christ. It would bring down a belief that has existed for nearly four centuries. Survivor all kinds of efforts to stifle the same, since the colonizers “banned the production” of mezcal, the old way of ma-
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PAG E
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Promises of Oaxacan Opera will perform in NY
9
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New book by Natalia Toledo
12
Choosing a language school
2
Contents
Index Mezcal, hispanic origin, not spanish | Pag. 1
Contents | Pag. 2
Ambrocci Xavier | Pag. 4
Promises of Oaxacan Opera
will perform in NY | Pag. 5
Classified | Pag. 6
Comida Corrida, French-style | Pag. 7
Studying Butoh dance | Pag. 8
New book by Natalia Toledo | Pag. 9
Map | Pag. 11
Choosing a language school | Pag. 12
Enjoy learning Spanish 1. THE INSTRUCTORS 4.THE CULTURAL have advanced academic credentials to teach Spanish as a second language and are carefully selected and supervised. Others schools train individuals from community, regardless of education,
2. THE TEACHING APPROACH www.oaxacatimes.com DIRECTOR: Lic. Yolanda García Caballero DESIGNER: rodolfo.gomezgarcia@gmail.com WEBSITE Design: Brian Lyle COLLABORATOR: Francisco Toledo, Georgina Dominguez, Richard Kemp For advertising call Yolanda Garcia at (951) 501 23 59 Letters to the editor: oaxacatimes@yahoo.com Oaxaca Times es una publicación mensual, editada por el Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura A.C. Escaleras del Fortín No 105, Col. Centro, C.P. 68000, Editor Responsable: Yolanda Garcia Caballero, Número de Certificado de Licitud de Título (9211). Número de Certificado de Licitud de Contenido (6457). Distribuido por el Instituto de Comunicación y Cultura A.C. Escaleras del Fortín No. 105, Col. Centro, C.P. 68000. Telefono: 501-2359. Impresora Litografica Bañuelas, S.A. de C.V. La reproducción total o parcial de textos o material gráfico de esta publicación sin la autorización por escrito del editor, queda estrictamente prohibida. Los artículos firmados son responsabilidad de sus autores. Las menciones de productos, marcas, servicios, precios y firmas comerciales son gratuitas y sólo tienen carácter de servicio informativo para los lectores, por lo que no implican responsabilidad ni compromiso alguno por parte de los editores. http://www.oaxacatimes.com E-mail: info@oaxacatimes.com
uses advanced techniques to go beyond the grammar and structure of Spanish and includes a more funttional and communicative approach to learning. The focus is on “speaking“ Spanish.
3.THE SCHOOL has achieved impressive results at all levels of fluency. This is why many top US universities send students to ICC for college credit.
INTEGRATION COMPONENT
of the program helps you meet and mix with Mexicans while you get involved with Mexican culture, this reinforcing you use of Spanish at the same time.
5. THE MANY
ADDED EXTRAS include home stay placements, field trips, lctures, Mexican festivities, weaving workshops with indigenous women, Mexican cooking classes, salsa dance lessons, free internet access and knowledgeable staff who are happy to help you with any other needs you may have during your stay in Oaxaca.
105 Escaleras del Fortín Phone 50-123-59 www.iccoax.com
TRADITIONAL TEMAZCAL
Pre Colombian steam bath TYPICAL OAXACAN CUISINE VEGETARIAN AND MEAT DISHES COOKING CLASSES Monday-Sunday 7:30 am - 21:00 pm García Vigil 715, Historic Center Ph.(951) 51-6-95-84 Email: lacasa_tioguero@hotmail.es May | June | July 2013
With herbs, detoxifying and natural relaxant. Reduces stress and anxiety, improves blood circulation through the heat of the bath and medicinal plants that are used in it. Relaxing Massage included for $45 US. FOR RESERVATIONS CALL: 133-05-76 Móvil,044-951-158-3023 or 044-951100-1406 Privada Villa Alta Esq. Ave. de Las Torres Col. Edo. de Oaxaca We can send you a taxi to pick you up at extra cost.
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3 Continued from page 1 king the drink is part of the cultural heritage that is disappearing. Today we have our “own colonizers” who, regardless of ancestral heritage, the disdain and try to kill him. So the research of academics is also proposed rescue this activity, which has stood some 25 centuries.
The route of mezcal At first not imagine that his excavations in the residential area of Nativitas, Tlaxcala, would lead to other routes. They found house foundations, mud flats, but there was more to be explained: the presence of ovens outside the homes. “We put in doubt that these furnaces for ceramics serve, as indicated earlier reports, and established the idea that there could have been cooked agave pineapples in order to produce, in principle, which is now known as tepache” Lazcano Arce account. Later, he says, found lots of pots and hypothesized that had been used for distilling mezcal. It began in 1998, the mezcal Route Project. The journey has been intense, says anthropologist. To date we have visited about 35 indigenous communities’’ to search producers having a rustic activity in the production of mezcal, allowing us to see what working tools used, what is their form of organization, which would help to establish whether the distillation has a preHispanic “he says. The findings are striking: “The archaeological furnaces are located in Tlaxcala, by ethnographic analogy, very similar to existing furnaces used in the cooking of maguey for producing mezcal.” But their findings beyond localized instruments. The foundations of housing units Nativitas can observe that the houses are associated with the furnaces. The analogy is that indigenous groups today mezcal made in a rustic home also have associated with mezcal production, and “their communities are in high places, which is the same as we found in the site prehispánicamente Nativitas” . Also, note that in colonial times “mezcal wine he competed. Then colonial authorities banned the production of mezcal, which led to underground again. Produ-
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Agave fields
cers why they went to the mountain areas”.
Puente with the other world?
Lazcano Arce points out on a crucial point: the specialized production of the drink and other items located in this area, such as jadeite accounts, establish that that had a Hispanic community organization for such products. In other words, there was already division classes. In principle, states that one of its assumptions is that mezcal was a product of distinction in these societies: “not everyone could have access to him. IE has to do with certain hierarchies and rituals that were made in the ceremonial area Xochitécatl (part of the same set where is Nativitas, the residential area, and Cacaxtla, the administrative center). “ Current Indigenous communities, explains, also use the mezcal for performing rituals “that we assume have remained since pre-Hispanic times.” For example, produce the drink during the dry season and the spread in their villages to make the request of rain. The Huichol of Guadalupe Ocotán, Nayarit, use it as “a process of initiation for children from three years, which means passing a level, which has to do with age and role in society, to another stage of adult life, “he says.
In the universe there is another possibility prehispanic use mezcal: altered states of consciousness of the rulers to come into contact with other worlds. Manuel de la Torre, one of the researchers involved in the project, recalls that in the Maya area is documented “the use of substances that alter states of consciousness, used by religious and political elites to enter into communication with other levels of reality. “There are vessels in the Maya area showing enemas practices, which is inserted rectally a hallucinogen and this allows the rulers to contact ancestors. This is shown in the wakes with marvelous figures such as snakes copal smoke form. “In general, altered states of consciousness allow leaders to contact the other world to return after this and tell his constituents what they said ancestors. Mezcal, then, could have served as a bridge to the world supernatural, which would also explain that not everyone can consume that product, “he reflects.
The evidence The results are positive: the analysis of residues on prehispanic Nativitas ovens, made by specialists and Alba Zea Raymundo Barrios at the Institute of Chemistry, UNAM, confirm the presence of maguey and fuel used for cooking pineapples.
May | June | July 2013
4
Art
Ambrocci
“La perla”
Xavier A Lazcano Arce and De la Torre said it remains to confirm that the pots located in the area were used for distillation. To demonstrate, these vessels are currently analyzed by the aforementioned experts, who will give the results in about five months. If the study is positive, mezcal The route shall, without doubt, that the distillation of the drink “is given at least 400 years before Christ, as we have done datings contexts, both in homes and Nativitas furnaces, down that old “point. The idea that the distillation is inherited from the colonizers, who in turn received it from the Arabs, would fall under its own weight. “Instead, what we get to do the Spanish to establish a change in the working tool. Would no longer pots, or mud, like the Huichol, but metal as a tool for production.’s Say, a substitute and as an accelerator to speed the distillation “adds Lazcano Arce. Anthropologists say they have gotten subsidy National Council for Science and Technology (CONACYT) and the Support Programme for Research and Innovation Projects (PAPIIT) of the UNAM. The project involves, besides the aforementioned experts, the director of the School of Chemistry, Santiago Capella, and students of the National School of Anthropology and History (ENAH) Nadia Romero and Erick Mejia. The work ahead is arduous: to encourage the recovery of our past.
new young painter born in 1981 in Santa Ana Zegache, Zegache means “place of seven mounds” (zhh gachi) in the Zapotec language. The town is 28 km south of the city of Oaxaca. It was the third town to be founded in the state’s Central Valleys region, after Zaachila and Tlalixtac de Cabrera. Santa Ana Zegache is well known for its XVIIth century church that was restored at the initiative of the famous painter Rodolfo Morales. The road leading to Santa Ana, is full of roses, pansies, poppies of all colors planted by the natives to sell in different markets of the villages in the valley of Oaxaca. Probably this is the reason why
the artist uses the blunt reds, yellows, purple and greens so constant in Mexican art. Clearly his images are influence by his everyday observations of his home town where he grew up. Xavier has presented his art in solo and group exhibitions, studied drawing at the Casa de la Cultura Oaxaqueña as well as oil painting. In 2007 took also art classes at the Casa de la Cultura of Puebla. The bulk of his work is oil on canvas, we can describe it as, heavily based in folklore. rich use of colour flowers, and dancers. His paintings are displayed in the gallery RAIZ ES , 304 GARCIA VIGIL downtown Oaxaca. Phone, 50 11 573. Cell, 044 951 192 66 13
MMMMM... Crepes! TRADITIONAL OAXACAN & INTERNATIONAL FOOD
501 M. Alcalá St. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 8 AM to midnight Fridays & Sat. until 3 AM For Reservations call,5012126 Credit cards welcome
May | June | July 2013
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5
La Popular The restaurant has a warm and cheery ambience. There is color everywhere, from the art on the walls, to the tables and chairs, the place settings, right down to the condiments, which come in brightly colored bowls. And the tortas? Riquisimo! They include treats like the Tuxtepecana, with ham, pineapple, quesillo, tomato, avocado and the cochinita pibil and chile relleno picatillo. The menu, which may change from day to day, includes as many as fifteen different sandwiches and a wide selection of fresh juices and aguas. Chef Israel Cruz Correa periodically varies the menu by preparing special seasonal dishes, such as chiles en nogadas and barbacoas. He also makes a fine omelet, as they have recently opened for breakfast. Incidentally, the name, La Popular, is best translated as “of/from/for the people, pueblos.” In norteamericano slang it would be “street,” as in the place is not for the elites. La Popular has “street cred” and very good tortas.
Riquísimas tortas!
Soprano Jessica Ortiz
Promises of Oaxacan Opera will
perform in NY T
Carnegie Hall in New York
www.oaxacatimes.com
he artistic director of the Bayou City Performance Arts (BCPA) in Houston, Texas, Linus Lerner called Oaxaca opera singers to present next May 24 at Carnegie Hall in New York in where they will have the opportunity to play the “Mass of the Children” by Jonh Rutter’s with the Orchestra of the Texas Medical Center. The sopranos Jessica Ortiz, Sonia López, Maribel Sanchez and tenor Christian Mayer will be those who will attend this event opera in New York City. This was released as part of the presentation of the 4th Festival of the Historic Center Opera 2013 edition to be held from 4 to 11 August in the city of Oaxaca in public squares and buildings such as the Teatro Macedonio Alcalá. The President of the Festival, Maribel Sanchez Garcia explained that Oaxaca has a dozen opera singers who have excelled in this area for their talent and knowledge, so it felt very important to dedicate this festival to them. In the company’s director of Tourist Services of the Ministry of Tourism and Economic Development (STYDE), Maurizio Cao Espejel and the president of the Council of the Historical Center (Cocentro), Fabiola García Calvo explained that this meeting will be in charge operatic artistic director Symphony Orchestra of Southern Arizona, Linus Lerner in which performers converge United States, China and Brazil. For its part Cocentro representative said that for four years the aim of this festival is to encourage artistic expression and tourism, cultural and historic downtown shopping Oaxaca, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1987 for its colonial urban beauty.
May | June | July 2013
6
HOUSING Classified HOUSING
APARTMENT FOR RENT!!, LOCATED IN THE BEAUTIFUL COLONIAL JALATLACO, Just 5 minutes MISCELLANY from downtown (Santo Domingo Church and Zocalo), it has two floors, 3 Bds, big terrace with a perfect view,MISCELLANY big patio, full equipment furnished and nice kitchen, high speed wireless internet and TV. For info contact: Email: you5baby@hotmail.com orMEDIC diocebos@hotmail.com Phone, 52-9511099274 FURNISHED APARTMENTS FOR RENT Across fromMEDIC the beautiful Santo Domingo church. All Ut. included + WI-FI, M. Alcalá 501 E-mail, humbertobenitez@yahoo.com. Phone, 52 (951)5012126 BEAUTIFUL HOUSE FOR SALE Located in a peaceful and safe neighborhood 15 minutes away from the city. 3 Bedrooms. 2 full baths (one with a bath tub). Dinning room, kitchen, laundry room, terrace, large gardens with palm trees and 2 bathrooms, ideal for family or friends reunions. Large water cistern. Parking space for 3 to 4 cars. All services working perfectly. Incredible price, $350,000 US (negotiable) For an appointment to see the house call, Cell, 52-951-1461585 517-7962 E.mail, Loit57@hotmail.com FOR RENT 15 min. walk to Zocalo from hillside house. Charming country style house with 2 separate apartments on quiet hidden street at base of El Fortin Hill. Cleaner air!! Hillside hikes. Rent an apt. or the entire house. Each apartment has one bedroom, bath, kitchen, living room. Internet and phone line. One apartment has large private garden and patio. Friendly and traditional Oaxacan neighborhood. Please contact Susan or Sergio at laquesab@hotmail.com for more info and pricing. FOR RENT Cottage - 20 minutes east of downtown, spacious land, 3 bedrooms, garage - no furniture. $350 US per month. For Info. Call Ms. Elizabeth Gonzalez, telephone, 9515178727, E -mail, elizabeth9310@ hotmail.com HOUSE FOR SALE Very nice house for sale, located north of Oaxaca City, very quiet and safe neighborhood called La Cascada. 250 Square meters, rustic style with red bricks, Windows of forge and adobe. Green areas inside. Garage for 2 cars,all services including telephone and cistern.$180,000 US Call, 951135-0536 E-mail, ingebenito@hotmail. com HOUSE FOR SALE Historical Center, 128 square meters, $285.000 US For information e-mail: rsierra68@ hotmail.com HOUSE FOR SALE Downtown area. 300 Sq. Meters. Three Bedrooms, studio, kitchen, large dining room, cistern, two full bathrooms, large patio with a fountain. Ideal for a business, B&B or a home. $600,000 US Contact Eloy, 52-951- 5-14-47-49 E-mail, publicidad_lomar@hotmail.com May | June | July 2013
EL DIABLO Y LA SANDIA A quaint hotel in downtown area that has a different, fun feel to it. Our guests enter and lounge just as they would at home, made easy by our personalized attention and warm environment. Our specialty: your breakfast. 205 Libres St. Col. Centro CP.68000 Phone, 52(951)514 4095 e-mail, info@eldiabloylasandia.com Apartment On El Fortin Hill - Spectacular View 10 minutes walk from downtown. Furnished apt. with 2 bedrooms, 2 full bathrooms, living room with city mountain and cityscape view, dinning room, service room, and furnished kitchen. Rooftop deck. All services included: gas, water, electricity, internet.$850.00USD monthly / $750.00USD six months or longer. For info please contact Luis or Rubi López 951 117 1220 or 951 1574559. Home (951) 5152119. e-mail luisyrubi@outlook.com Hostal Inn/Guest House Private rooms with bathroom, comfortable, clean, ceiling fan, wireless internet, mosquito nets, food service at reasonable prices. Living room, terrace and a patio garden. Located 15 minutes from the Zocalo. $200 pesos per night, per person. 2 people, $300 For more information call: 951-51- 63589, CEl. 951-181-3580 or e-mail: garmuzlalo@ gmail.com RENTAL HOME SAN FELIPE New architect designed rustic style house in the foothills of Cerro San Felipe. Scenic views, two large bedrooms, large desks, open terraces, screened windows, fully-equipped kitchen, telephone, internet, TV, washing and dryer. Two blocks from bus stop located fifteen minutes from Oaxaca’s center. This quiet house offers ideal vacation home for hikers, nature lovers, birdwatchers, mountain bikers, writers and artists or those who simply want to relax while enjoying both Oaxaca City’s cultural life and the tranquility of San Felipe village. Short and long term rentals. All services included. For more information call 133 6312 or write to casalasterrazas@yahoo.com For Rent Fully furnished 2 Bd house for rent in downtown area (5 blocks from Zócalo) including sheared garden. All Ut. Included plus Internet.$350 US per month. Contact, onlygasper@hotmail.com Cell, 9515099339 Bungalows for Rent Address: Calle Rio Zoogocho #7, Col. Zoogocho, Huayapam, Oaxaca. E-mail: itot01@hotmail. com. Cel: 044 951 182 43 87. Rentals are available by day, week, or month. Furnished Apartments Nice furnished apartments conveniently located, www.apartment.galeon.com Contact Jerry: 951 156 28 93, galdeco@ gmail.com FULLY FURNISHED APARTMENTS IN A OAXACA BESUTIFUL COLONIAL HOUSE 3 blocks off Santo Domingo church and 4 blocks from the Zócalo. Call (951) 501-0214 or Cell number, (044 951) 2502280
BRISAS DEL CIELO (former Casa del Encanto) 6 Mexican style houses with one or two BRs, for one or two people. Fully furnished. Complete kitchen, cable TV,high speed internet access,phone,safety box,purified water,solar heater pool,panoramic view. Weekly cleaning service( optional laundry service),parking,gardens, patio,terrace, palapa,sundeck. Rates by the week and up. Special long term rates. E mail: brisasdelcielo1@hotmail.com Website: www. brisasdelcielo.com Phone, 52-9515-20-20-44 A GREEN OASIS IN OAXACA! Studios & Duplex or 2 bedroom apartaments. Fully furnished cleaning and all utilities provided. Weekly and monthly rates. quiet, safe, idyallic garden setting.English spoken. Adults only. For information contact with Don fernando o Sra. Tere at 01 951 51 44 062 in Mexico. from USA & Canada (011 52 951) 51 44 062 or email: cafe0728@hotmail.com or cal cell. (044 951) 130-0691 AL SOL STUDIOS & APARTMENTS Offers 9 studios and 3 one bedroom apartments, beautiful, completely furnished and nicely decorated. Located 10 minutes walk from the Zocalo in a tranquil and secure neighborhood, still historical center. Each unit has its own equipped kitchenette, dinning table, living area, private bathroom, one or two beds (twin, double, queen or king size, depending on the unit). Amazing roof top with 360° view, common living room, garden, parking space. All utilities and WiFi included. Rent between 350 and 500 usd per month or 190 to 270 usd per week. Contact alsolapartments@gmail.com Telephone for messages (if you leave your e-mail or telephone number we’ll contact you) + 52 (951) 516-9073 or cell (044 951) 119-5076. FOR RENT - Near La Merced Market. 3 Bd, kitchenette, living room,dinning, full bath, All Ut. included. Internet. Cost per month, $690 US. We can offer a discount in long term rent. For information call: (951) 5154902. Cell: (951) 179-0046. Email: desdeoaxaca@gmail.com APARTMENTFOR RENT One-two bedrooms, kitchen, bath, living/ dining room. Fully furnished. 410 Arteaga St.Ring doorbell. Phone, 5-16-50-56 Email: villamaria22@hotmail.com Website: http://villamaria.homestead.com/villamaria.html BUNGALOWS FOR RENT Perfect for long - term rental. Fully furnished and all services includes ( TV cable, wireless internet, electricity, gas and water). Bungalow access through beautiful garden. Safe and quiet neighborhood. Good location for public transportation, supermarkets , shopping mall and more services. For more information call 516-0304 cell phone (044 951) 145-6307 or email: or email, gorch4@hotmail.com .
FOR RENT In San Felipe del Agua. Charming 3br house and 1BR bungalow in colonial style. Completely Furnished, all services included. Can be rented together or separately. Panoramic view, website: http://www. paginasprodigy.com.mx/vbkandt/ or contact Sra. Vera at (951) 5201839 and cell: (044 951) 547-0899 or Email vkandt@hotmail.com FULLY FURNISHED APARTMENTS CONVENIENTLY LOCATED 5 blocks from the main square,www.apartment. galeon.com Contact Gerardo, (044 951) 156-2893 galdeco@gmail.com Furnished one BR apartments in colonial house. Internet. 2 blocks from Sto.Domingo church. Call (044 951) 156-8275 or (951) 501-0214 FURNISHED APARTMENT FOR RENT WITH ALL UTILITIES INCLUDED One large Bd. Double bed with bedding,kitchen HOUSING with all appliances, TV, bathroom with hot water 24hrs, internet and garden, Very clean and new.Quiet & HOUSING safe neighborhood with commercial centers,transportation taxi and bus,bars- restaurants,sport clubs, near by. 15MISCELLANY minutes walking distance from downtown area. 302 Pensamientos street between Almendros MISCELLANY & Eucaliptos street. In Colonia. Reforma. Info contact: with José Alberto AT: pepe018@hotmail.com Mobil Phone: 951-178-7419 MEDIC
MEDIC Dentist: Dr Virgilio Rodriguez Cortés 305 Macedonio Alcalá. Call: 5169365 Pediatrician: Ana Bolena Rojas Escarrega 121-A Belisario Domínguez Street, Col. Reforma. Call: 51-84297 Pager: 5129020 Code: 58270. Specialist on crowns, bridges and dental implants University of Michigan. Dr. Angel Gómez Reyes. #312A Bustamante Street. tel.5164959. Email: gomezagr@hotmail.com or visit www.oaxacadental.com Profesional Dentist Cynthia Robles 1204-B Independencia Ave. Open 10 to 2 PM &4 to 8 PM. Saturday 10 to 2 PM Ph, 5147046, Movil, 044 951134 9493 Allergy Specialist and Pediatrician: Dr Rodolfo García Caballero 808 Alcalá Street. Tel: 5132600. Neurologist & Pediatrician: Roberto San Roman Tobar Ave Juárez 302-6, downtown. Tel: 514-2415 Pager: 51290-20 Clave: 75960 www.oaxacatimes.com
7
Cultural Program May, June and July of 2013
Velas de Juchitan Oaxaca–Traditional festivities-(4 hours away by bus from the city):
May 22-San Isidro Labrador May 22- San Vicente Ferrer May 23-San Vicente Ferrer Chico May 24-San Vicente Ferrer Large
Creme de Flor de Calabasa al Aji Panca
Comida Corrida, French-style Writer by Shannon Sheppard
A
meal named for the three parts of a bullfight? Yes! The origin of the name of Mexico’s ubiquitous 3-course, fixed price, midday meal, Comida Corrida, is derived from the “Tres tiempos” of a “Corrida de toros.” Ordinarily simple and substantial, chef Jean Michel Thomas of Gío (aka, Dondé está el Chef?) has taken it to a French infused gourmet level — all for only 80 pesos. And then there is the peaceful garden setting Colonia Reforma. A light airy dining room in the front and a covered patio looking out on a lush garden in the back, provide an ideal backdrop for the delicate, yet complex, flavors. I’ve had the pleasure of dining at Gío several times and recently introduced my snow-bird neighbors (in Oaxaca escaping the freezing temperatures of Alaska). It was a great success and they have already put it at the top of their list when they return to Oaxaca next winter. As always, on my recent visit, it was hard to decide what to order. Should I begin with the Creme de Flor de Calabasa al Aji Panca OR the Pay de Pollo a la Provenzal? And, for the main course, would it be Tartare de Atún Fresco con Tomate y Arroz a la Mostaza de Dijon OR Pierna de Cerdo al Champiñón con Brocolis a la Mantequilla de Ajo. I finally settled on the squash blossom soup and the tuna tartare. Lucky for me, one of my tablemates ordered the chicken pot pie and the pork leg with mushrooms and broccoli and we traded forkfuls. All were muy sabroso! Dessert was easy. None of us could resist the Pastel de Chocolate Oaxaca con Coulis de Mango. Although, the Fresa al Requesón con Galleta de Almendra that the someone at the neighboring table ordered, looked yummy, too! If you are wondering what’s cooking, enter “Dondé está el Chef” in Facebook’s search box and voilà, Chef Jean Michel publishes his menu daily.
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May 30
Celebration of Corpus Christi
Important religious observance in all churches and in markets where Corpus Christi patties (empanadas) special filled With sweetbreads, pineapple and coconut are sold all in downton area.
June 19 though July- Institute of Graphic ArtsAlcalá No 507- Drawings by Miguel Covarrubias
June 26, Feast of St. John in Tehuantepec Tartare de Atún Fresco con Tomate y Arroz
Oaxaca
June 28- Traditional celebration in San PedroAmusgos
June 31,
Celebration of St. Peter in the neighborhood of Atotonilco and Guichiveri in Tehuantepec Oaxaca. The party last 6 days (4 hours by car)
July 3-Teotitlan del Valle-(20 minutes by car from
the city) Feast of the Precious Blood of Christ from 11 am
July 12 until August– Photography by Charles Pastel de Chocolate Oaxaca con Coulis
Gío is open Monday through Friday, from 2:00 – 5:00 PM and is located at Eucaliptos 407A, Colonia Reforma, in Oaxaca. You can’t miss the restaurant, it’s white, with flowers painted at the base of the building. To get there by bus: Catch a San Felipe del Agua bus on Pino Suarez, get off at Eucaliptos, turn right and walk 2-1/2 blocks. Or, catch a Gigante bus on Lic. Eduardo Vasconcelos, get off at Eucaliptos, turn left and walk 1-1/2 blocks. Of course, you can always take a taxi or walk. ¡Buen provecho!
This is an expanded version of the April 24, 2013 post on her blog, View From Casita Colibrí (casitacolibri.wordpress.com).
Harbutt- Alvarez Bravo Photography Center.- M. Bravo St. corner with García Vigil.
20 & 27 July-5 PM-Parade of the delegations
of the 8 regions of Oaxaca State.Passes through the streets of M. Alcala to the Zocalo.
22 and 29 July
10am-4pm Guelaguetza Oaxacan-ethnic Festival in the auditorium of The Fortín Hill. Tickets available,Ticket Master Textil Museum. Hidalgo Ave. Corner with Fiallo St.Exibition of Joyas de Hilo and Las Mujeres Decentes del 58. Open from 10 to 8 pm. On Sunday from 11am to 6pm. Free entrance. Guide tours in English and Spanish every Wednesday of the week from 5 to 6 pm MACO- Contemporary Art Museum. –M. Alcalá 202- Art Exhibits all year round. Open from Wednesday to Monday from 10:30 am to 8 PM $20 pesos entrance. Check for Special Art Cinema schedules at, www. oaxacacine.com
May | June | July 2013
8 Atemporal, northeast mexican cuisine.
Experiencing the arts in Oaxaca
Studying
Butoh dance Atemporal O A new restaurant has been added to the already wide array of wonderful restaurants here in Oaxaca. The name of this establishment is Atemporal, which translates into English as Timeless. What sets it apart from other eateries is the uniqueness of its cuisine. Atemporal specializes in food from the Northeast of Mexico. Luis Prestamo, who is the owner and who offers you a warm handshake as you enter his very nicely appointed candlelit restaurant explains it this way, “We are working with the Northeast Mexican cuisine which has its own special flavors and preparation techniques. It’s hard for people to go up to the North to try the food which is excellent and comes from the states of Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas and Coahuila so we brought a little piece of the North down to Oaxaca. Variety is the spice of life.” Atemporal specializes in flavorful meat dishes of the region. Marination and expert use of the grill is the key and chef Ricardo Ramirez oversees the kitchen with pride. The results are delicious. The menu, which offers a wide variety of grilled meats such as Backrib, Arrachera out-side, Rib-eye, Cowboy and Parillada also offers chicken (TRY THE DELICIOUS POLLO VIOLADO COOKED IN SPICES AND BEER), fish, salads and tacos along with an appealing variety of appetizers and side dishes. GOAT AND PORK, PREPARED IN THE NORTHEAST STYLE, ARE A HOUSE SPECIALITY. In addition to the tastefully decorated dining rooms there is a lovely terrace where diners can enjoy their meals in a garden setting. The charming bar is fully stocked and will soon carry a line of mescals especially made for Atemporal by local artisans. A portion of the profits will revert to the producers of the mescal to be used on issues of sustainability and local economic growth which are important factors in Luis’s business philosophy of giving back to the community. Atemporal is also great for large parties on the terrace and can offer special menus of both traditional and contemporary fare. Portions are quite large and prices moderate. Come and enjoy the food of Northeast Mexico with Luis and his family in a wonderful, ‘timeless’ setting. Atemporal / Calzada Porfirio Diaz No. 187, Col. Reforma / Phone – 044-951-120-1782 / Hours – Daily 1pm until midnight. Sundays 1pm until 7pm. Closed Tuesdays.
axaca never fails to amaze given the wide array of art, theater, film, music and, of course, food that is available to experience (and eat!) on a daily basis. We are blessed here with the presence of Oaxaca Cine which presents world-class film festivals at the beautiful Macedonio Alcala Theater. Curated by Isabel Rojas, Oaxaca Cine brings world film to a venue which boasts a state of the art projection and sound system. The presentation and variety of films offered rival any I’ve experienced in Paris, London, Los Angeles and New York. Many times filmmakers are present to discuss their work. It is an experience not to be missed. Numerous music venues abound and one can on any given night be exposed to cumbia, jazz, dixieland, progressive and many other music genres. One of my favorite places is La Nueva Babel in the center on Porfirio Diaz. Recently, I delighted there in the music of a touring dixieland band from New Orleans. Opportunities to engage in and experience THE ARTS in Oaxaca are boundless. Arts calendars are avalable online but one of the best ways to gain information on what’s happening is to read the posters which appear throughout the center. Recently, I
observed a poster advertising a workshop in butoh dance at Teatro Juarez. The workshop was to be taught by Tadashi Endo, a very well known dancer and teacher of the art of Butoh, a dance form originating in Japan after World War Two, which typically involves playful and grotesque imagery, taboo topics, extreme or absurd environments, and is traditionally performed in white body makeup with slow hyper-controlled motion. I was curious and signed up for the course. A group of thirty students met for a week to learn from and be inspired by Tadashi’s artistry. We danced, improvised and delighted in the course for fours hours daily and at the end of the day were exhausted and inspired. Tadashi presented a program at Teatro Juárez culminating his time in Oaxaca that left the audience uplifted and in tears. Rosario Ordóñez brought Tadashi to Oaxaca for the worksop and performance. Like Isabel Rojas, she is one of many artists here who strive to expand our consciousness of the world arts scene. We benefit from their dedicated efforts. So, keep your eyes on those posters and review the calendars on a daily basis. You just might find yourself dancing your heart out on the stage of Teatro Juarez with a Japanese master!
Tadashi Endo with students
Discover the secrets behind black pottery, cotton and wool textiles. Visit indigenous markets, a 16th century ex-convent and archeological zones
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T
he book, written in Isthmus Zapotec (Diidxazá) and Spanish and illustrated by the author’s father, the master Francisco Toledo, tells a story in which the protagonists are the greatgrandfather Benjamin Puli and Francisco Lopez Orozco known as Lo Chico ( Natalia’s grandfather in his childhood) In the 20s, Benjamin Puli was a shoemaker in high demand in Juchitán, in the south of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, Oaxaca. He had eight children, all sleeping on cowhide the shoemaker used to make shoes. As shoes were made for customers from the cowhide, the children were left without anywhere to sleep.One night, he has a powerful dream which reveals to him the solution to his dilemma and a life changing sequence of events unfolds which changes him and his family in a magical way., This story, like Light Foot and Tale of The Rabbit And Coyote which Natalia Toledo has also published in collaboration with her father, are part of the oral tradition of the Zapotec, deeply informed by the cultural richness of this indigenous culture. “I would like to recover magical spaces and feelings that existed in our childhood, in which the living cultures of those ancient times lived and breathed. We need to take the time to speak those treasured, traditional stories to our children,” says the writer. Natalia Toledo was exposed, since her early years in Juchitán, to the stories her parents told of their culture in an environment that was rich with art, music, culture and fiestas. Children learned to be independent and fend for themselves from an early age. Recently she taught a workshop for children in the community of Guidxiró, Oaxaca, a place which very much reflected her experience growing up in Juchitán. She described the children as inquisitive, playful and free. “These beautiful children speak what they feel and if they do not like something they’ll tell you. They question.” Natalia celebrates the fact that indigenous migrant children born of the cultural envi-
New book by Natalia Toledo
Natalia Toledo signed her new book
ronment of their parents have the distinct advantage of being able to communicate in three languages, English, Spanish and Zapotec. “Through language, wise words are transmitted. It’s like digging into the heart of another person and sharing a wealth of cultures in Zapotec, Spanish or any other language.” Natalia Toledo has been moving around since the age of eight when she left her ho-
metown to live in Mexico City where she lives today. Her vision, through her writing and poems, is to contribute to the transmission of the Zapotec culture. “If you have your mother tongue you have access to the heart of the culture and the stories that keep it alive for future generations.” The book is by Wings and Roots publications and the Ministry of Culture and Arts of Oaxaca.
The chapel is dressed in the color, flavor and rhythm of the Guelaguetza Every Friday from 7:00 to 10:00 pm Quinta Real honors the richest tradition in Oaxaca
See our special Guelaguetzas at www.quintareal / Oaxaca Reservations 50 161 0 5 de MAyo# 300 Center OAXACA
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1. Zรณcalo 2. MACO Contemporary Art Museum 3. Alameda 4. Tourist Office 5. Carmen AltoConvent 6. House of Juรกrez 7. Plazuela del Carmen Alto 8. Santo Domingo Cultural Center 9. Santo Domingo de Guzman
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10. Rufino Tamayo Museum 11. Central Market 12. San Juan de Dios Church 13. Science & Technology Museum 14. San Felipe Neri 15. Cathedral 16. M. Alcalรก Theatre 17. Plaza de la Danza 18. La Soledad Church
19. Merced Church 20. Guelaguetza Auditorium 21. Post Office 22. Observatory 23. Planetarium 24. Central de Abasto 25. Alvarez Bravo Photography Center 26. Philately Museum 27. Pochote Movie Theatre
28. Camino Real Hotel 29. Nuevo Mundo Coffee Roaster 30. USA consulate 31. Canadin consulate 32. 1 st. Class Bus Station.
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MINI TAJ Indian food
By Indian Chef
RAMESH CHAWLA 115 Privada de Azáleas, Col. Reforma. Phone: 5158316 & 9511096960 May | June | July 2013
Choosing a
W
ith a wealth of Spanish-language schools in Oaxaca to choose from, how can a prospective student determine which is best? The first step is to ask yourself what you really want from your educational experience. Do you, for example, want a thorough grounding in grammar in order to continue studying Spanish in years to come with the ultimate goal of linguistic competence in reading, writing, listening to, and speaking Spanish? Or is your immediate goal enjoying yourself and being able to communicate well enough in Spanish to make known your needs and to enjoy chatting with shopkeepers, taxi drivers, and your neighbors? Your needs determine the kind of school you should choose. Asking friends is not necessarily the best way to find a good language school although it can provide helpful information. Everyone loves the school s/he attended, but few have taken the trouble to check out other options. Whether you’re already in Oaxaca or checking out schools long-distance, a school’s website is a good place to start. Unfortunately, entering “Spanish language schools Oaxaca” into your search engine will yield only a handful of the dozens available (and “related searches” yields only one or two others), and neither the yellow pages nor local newspapers are any help at all. Once you’ve narrowed the search by checking websites, the best way to find your ideal school is “boots on the ground.” Visiting half a dozen schools will not only help you pinpoint which ones offer what you’re looking for but also give you an idea of the school’s philosophy and ambience, important if you’re planning to spend more than a few days there. Before your visit, arm yourself with a list of questions. All schools promise small classes with individualized learning, workshops and excursions (for an additional charge), help with housing, a variety of class levels, and “experienced” teachers. Most are located in
language school
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Writer by Phyllis West
or quite near the city center. Almost all have Wi-Fi access although you may need to bring your own laptop. There is no licensing or governing body for language schools in Mexico, and many schools have formed their own consortiums, so it is not particularly helpful to inquire about membership in professional organizations. Also, most schools have open enrollment, which means that students enter existing classes on a continuing basis, usually on a Monday; however, if the group doesn’t work for you, you can always opt for a private class. To narrow your search for the perfect school for you, you may want to consider asking some or all of the following questions. How long has the school been operating in Oaxaca? A minimum of ten years at least ensures that the school has a solid presence here and has met with enough success to keep it running. What are the qualifications of the teachers? Although a college degree may sound impressive, and many schools additionally train teachers in their method of teaching Spanish, a licentiatura in Teaching Spanish as Second Language (or TSSL certificate) guarantees that the teacher has had training in the science of teaching a foreign language. A “feeling for teaching Spanish,” in my book, is not sufficient. Additionally, you might inquire if the teachers also speak English. This can be helpful when you don’t understand a grammar point and need a more indepth explanation. Is there a textbook for each class level? A textbook need not be limiting as the school needn’t follow the text but can pick and choose lessons from it. Some schools have created their own textbooks, which
are often equal to if not better than a standard text. Some use only handouts. Some use the textbooks only for homework. Again, it’s important that you decide how much structure you need and if it’s important for you to be able to refer to a textbook when you’re not in class. Asking “What single thing makes your school different from other language schools in Oaxaca?” may yield interesting answers; however, be prepared for the standard response of “we give individualized attention.” A further point to consider is whether classes are composed of like-age students. Being the only 65-year-old in a class of 20-somethings can be a challenge, or it can be stimulating . . . it all depends on your personal comfort zone. Additionally, be sure your school offers at least a class in pronunciation. A grasp of grammar and a good vocabulary do you no good if no one can understand you! Only after you’ve narrowed your list to the two or three schools which best fit your needs should you check out pricing. Although some schools offer pamphlets and price lists, most refer you to their website. While cost is important, it doesn’t vary greatly among schools, and the school that charges a few dollars more may have value added based upon your individual needs. Bear in mind that if you’re already in Oaxaca you shouldn’t have to pay a registration fee. Once you’ve determined your own needs, a few days spent checking out your options and asking the right questions will not only be a good use of time but can also be an extremely enjoyable experience and a good opportunity to orient yourself to the lovely city of Oaxaca.
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