SUBCULTURED. Issue 1: The Launch

APRIL 2016

SUBCULTURED. SUBCULTUREDMAG.COM

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS WITH

SURREY STUDENTS

THE COMEBACK OF THE

90’s

STAFF SHOOT MEET THE SUBCULTURED TEAM

BBC RADIO 1 PRESENTS JAKE BUGG, THE 1975, ANNIE MAC

ISSUE 1:

THE LAUNCH

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Letter from the editor My name is Rebecca Cofie, I study Liberal Arts and Sciences (Google it!) and I’m going to tell you a short story about how SUBCULTURED began.

I’m an academic person but I’ve always had extracurricular interests, such as fashion and photography, which I’ve partaken in outside my studies. Therefore, it was only natural that upon arriving at Surrey, I came up with an idea to do a ‘Campus Street Style’ report, featuring the university’s best-dressed students. After requesting if I could write this for The Stag and being turned down, I randomly thought, “I should just create my own fashion/creative magazine at the uni!” After a bit of Googling, I quickly discovered that many universities in the US such as Northwestern, UC Berkeley and Columbia already have these creative publications. There was actually legitimacy to my idea!

But how on Earth was I going to gather a team to make this a reality? After two weeks of deliberating, I solved the problem on the 31st October 2015, when I sent out a mass email to see if anyone would be interested in creating this project with me. To my complete disbelief, it generated 154 email replies of people expressing an interest in the magazine. It was unreal.

After thousands of meetings, many ups and downs, and a lot of communication on Facebook Messenger, we now have a constantly updated website (subculturedmag.com), an active social media following (@subculturedmag), and of course, our first digital magazine issue.

However, SUBCULTURED is about more than just fashion. It unites students who want to merge their creative passions (e.g. fashion, art, photography, music,) with their university experience. It’s a chance for students to express themselves creatively amongst the many essays, exams and dissertations.

Our first issue is a combination of everyone’s ideas. For example, the launch party ‘balloons shoot’ on the front cover, was first suggested

by Michelle Moreira (Art/Design Assistant), the mansion house for the staff shoot was provided by Sufi Haroon (Team Member), the idea to interview Surrey students was proposed by Lara Dal Molin (Writer) and executed by Alice Vily (Managing Director), even the title ‘Issue 1: The Launch’ was first stated by Koyin Akinsiku (Marketing Assistant) at our second meeting.

Everything you see in this issue is a product of someone’s imagination.

SUBCULTURED has been a crazy, exhilarating, amazing ride so far, and I can’t imagine my university experience without it. However, SUBCULTURED would not be possible without people – from the editorial team to the photo-shoot team, events, marketing/online, managing directors, design, even the Students Union for answering my never-ending questions...and of course, YOU, the reader!! From the bottom my heart, I just want to say THANK YOU!!!!!

I hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed creating it.

e fi o C a c c e b e

R

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SUBCULTURED. Edito-In-Chief and Creative Director

REBECCA COFIE Managing Director (Events, Marketing) Zehra Uluoz Managing Director (Editorial, Art/Design, Videography, Photography) Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou) Events Director Ana-Maria Enache Marketing Director Olivia Mitchell Marketing Assistants Koyin Akinsiku, Juliey Pham Editorial Director Katherine Frances Skippon Editorial Assistant Nida Jafri Photo Director Setareh Sanjarani Fashion Market Director Honey Kilaso-Adelaja Art/Design Director Dagmar Bernt Ellefsen Art/Design Assistant Michelle Osterauer Moreira Online Director Kristiana Vasarina WRITERS AK Gurung, Alice Vily, Holly Butteriss, Katherine SKippon, Lara Dal Molin, Montserrat Fernandez, Olivia Mitchell, Victoria Hill-Chalmers PHOTOGRAPHERS Oficial Launch Shoot Rebecca Cofie Student Budget Shoot Laure Komoe Staff Shoot Rebecca Cofie Trend Report Shoot: Setareh Sanjarani MODELS Oficial Launch Shoot Helen Shen, Eklavya Juneja, Melani Krasteva, Javier mĂşjica, Rengin Akcan Student Budget Shoot Zehra Uluoz, Seun Onatade, Irmak Olzeci, Aisha Akeem, Darren Tindall, Dimitra Drakopoulou, Elpida Komianou, Eklavya Juneja Trend Report Shoot: Dan Gallagher, Lamine Diouf, Rebecca Foster MAKEUP Oficial Launch Shoot Holly Gibbons, Rebecca Foster Student Budget Shoot Setareh Sanjarani Trend Report Shoot: Rebecca Foster POST-PRODUCTION Oficial Launch Shoot Rebecca Cofie Student Budget Shoot Setareh Sanjarani, Rebecca Cofie Staff Shoot Olivia Mitchell Trend Report Shoot: Setareh Sanjarani CREATIVE ASSISTANTS Oficial Launch Shoot Karan Sharma Student Budget Shoot Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou) Trend Report Shoot: Karan Sharma, Honey Kilaso-Adelaja, Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou)

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APRIL 2016

SUBCULTUREDMAG.COM

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SUBCULTURED. CONTENTS APRIL 2016

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The Comeback of the 90s / Ak Gurung

The Sustainable Side of Beauty / Katherine Skippon

CULTURE

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Trends, Trends, Trends / Alice Vily

Fashion and Philosophy: Representing the ‘Self’ / Lara Dal Molin

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Bring the Blackout / Victoria Hill-Chalmers

Surrey Student Feature / Alice Vily, AK Gurung

ART Gendered Fashion On Its Way Out? / Victoria Hill-Chalmers Skint Fashion: How To Dress on a Student Budget? / Montserrat Fernandez

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Your Body, Your Way / Holly Butteriss

MUSIC

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BBC Radio 1 Presents.... / Olivia Mitchell

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Staff Photoshoot

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Launch Party Photoshoot

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The Comeback of the Text: AK Gurung Illustration: Montserrat Fernandez

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friend once told me that fashion is a constant cycle and I could not agree more. While fashion is always reinventing and creating new ideas and masterpieces (which admittedly is one of the main reasons why we are so interested in it) the reappearance of many fashion pieces and styles from previous eras cannot be denied. In particular our current decade has seen the recycling of many favourites from the iconic 90s. It alone saw so many various changes in fashion, leading one to associate multiple types of styles to describe the fashion of the 90s, ranging from grunge to preppy to hip hop/ street wear.

While we may have cringed at our mum’s or older sib-

lings’ outfit choices when looking at old photographs in the past, nowadays we are more likely to be borrowing their old clothes, delighted to have acquired an authentic vintage piece without spending a dime!

The current fashion scene seems to have hand-picked some amazing looks and styles from the 90s, as the likes of the choker necklace, the floral skater dress and Doc Martens- to name a fewhave truly made a comeback. Note how I said ‘handpicked’ since the 90s did also experience some horrendous trends too (like baggy trousers, baggy shorts…a lot of things seen worn on The Fresh Prince of Bel Air basically!).

Nonetheless, classics like the leather jacket and the denim jacket have boosted in popularity much like in the 90s. While they have been adapted and modernised today, many top high street brands like Urban Outfitters and Topshop can been seen to sell such jackets with the specific 90s look captured.

This usually translates into light acid washed and/or oversized denim jackets and biker style black leather jackets. Even jelly sandals and platform shoes, most notably in the form of ‘creepers’, made surprising but arguably short-lived comebacks.

Whenever the internet needs a good laugh, a throwback to a celebrity outfit from the 90s might pop up (referring to some of the red carpet 11

looks of the Spice Girls and Gwen Stefani!).

Nonetheless, the styles of some iconic 90s fashion icons are being appreciated once again.

Along with my favourites of Cher from Clueless and Rachel Green from Friends, the likes of Winona Ryder and the supermodel group of the 90s (Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford etc.) can also be inferred as having paved a new path in the fashion industry, something that can be seen long after their decade of prominence.

When watching Clueless for the 100th time this week, I noticed some key fashion items of the characters that are now adorned by us today everywhere. Ranging from the repeated use of the plaid pattern to cute leather backpacks to A-line skirts, it seems that we have fully embraced the comeback of the Beverly Hills preppy 90s look showcased by Cher and her friends.

Meanwhile, Rachel Green’s classic girl-next-door look compromising of crop tops, denim dunga12

rees and mom jeans is one that has emerged a lot lately. The cute and effortless look is definitely one of our favourites, loved by fashion bloggers and celebrities alike. Other items of clothing that fall under this look include halter tops, denim skirts and turtle necks. Of course, one cannot discuss Rachel Green without bringing up her most iconic hairstyle (famously named ‘The Rachel’) which itself has left a long lasting legacy.

On the other hand, Winona Ryder’s iconic grungy, tomboy style was also heavily copied by women in the 90s and is a look that has once again been popularised. Top online shopping brand ASOS, for example, even has a page dedicated just to grunge 90s fashion where textures like leather and mesh are consistently showcased. However, Ryder was also able to marry her tomboy street style with elegance for the red carpet by instead opting for textures like velvet and satin. Nevertheless, the colour black was key and consistent in Ryder’s style. Other items associated with this 90s grunge looks include

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ones already mentioned before, like the choker necklace, Doc Martens, platform shoes/boots, and others like checked shirts and oversized vintage t-shirts.

The 1990s also saw the new era of supermodels with Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Tatjana Patitz being known as the Big Five supermodels and then later as the Big Six, with the addition of Kate Moss. These women redefined the fashion industry as their influence and modelling careers were able to reach millions of women across the globe during the 90s. Suddenly, the transition of model to supermodel to superstar was clear as they were highly prominent in the media and fame surrounded both their careers

and personal lives. Kate Moss was THE model of the later 1990s and her modelling career has left an iconic legacy behind. Fashion-wise, Kate was regularly seen to be able to pull off a harmonised mix of the girl-next-door meets grunge look. Meanwhile, the other models embodied the fun but sultry personas and styles that went on to define the 90s. Miniskirts, flashy co-ords and bold lip colours were common looks associated with them.

Whether we have realised it or not, the 90s fashion scene has definitely infiltrated back into our lives. While not all the trends have been brought back with loving arms, it is clear to see the cycle of fashion being revived again, and the 90s fashion influence seems adamant to stay.

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Š www.viviennewestwood.com/savethearctic

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The Sustainable Side of Beauty Text: Katherine Skippon

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e’ve all been exposed to images of the horrors of ‘fast fashion’- piles of used clothes with huge carbon footprints, exploited workers in poor countries and fashionable clothes coming in and out quicker than you can say ‘A/W 2016’ . It’s easy to ignore this darker side of fashion, especially since most brands don’t provide specific information on their ethics. Therefore, knowing which brands to wear and which to avoid in order to dress sustainably is difficult.

However, some brands are taking a stand for the environment and for their workers, making ethical fashion more easily available to us. For the high street, H & M emphasises ‘conscious’ fashion, while, for those more accustomed to designer labels, Vivienne Westwood also campaigns to save the earth through her clothes.

There are even sustainable beauty brands ready to turn your make up addiction into an environmentally friendly habit.

H & M ‘Conscious Collection’ H & M have plenty of information on their website about their goals to help save the planet, setting themselves as one of THE high street brands for environmentally conscious customers. They are the number one user of certified organic cotton in the world; over 1/5 of it is either organic, recycled or grown under the Better Cotton Initiative. If this doesn’t impress you, their goal is to raise this figure to 100% by 2020 latest.

Organic hemp and recycled wool also feature in

the brand’s effort to use earth-friendly materials.

On top of all that, H & M is constantly expanding its ‘Conscious Collection’, with clothes mainly from sustainable materials for guilt-free shopping at high street prices.

Vivienne Westwood ‘#BeSpecific, Climate Revolution & SaveTheArtic’ Vivienne Westwood has long had a reputation for her punkish designs which send important messages about the world, and her latest menswear campaign did not disappoint. The brand had a special message behind the show at Milan Fashion Week- to #BeSpecific. But #BeSpecific, excuse us, is a pretty vague hashtag, so what does Vivienne mean? The designer calls on us to be specific about what we need to do to combat climate change. The campaign follows on from Westwood’s earlier message, that ‘Politicians are Criminals’- destroying our planet for profit.

Vivienne Westwood also joined Greenpeace, designing T-shirts from sustainable materials with the slogan ‘Save the Arctic’. In between all of this, Westwood also finds the time to organise and update Climate Revolution, the uprising she founded calling for change in how we structure society. This change would see society founded in respect for the earth and ready to combat global climate issues. The uprising puts on rallies and petitions, reminding us with its slogan that ‘everything is connected.’

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Ethical beauty: The lowdown As well as sustainable fashion, natural beauty lovers can also buy into some brilliant natural/organic brands. We interviewed Kate from WildOrganicBeauty who gave us the lowdown on amazing natural products.

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What are the benefits of using organic/ natural beauty products?

Organic products are simply a more holistic approach to beauty. If you're smearing organic raw honey and oatmeal on your skin, it follows that you are incorporating those things in your diet. Natural and organic beauty products have improved my skin, and always been a better alternative for me. In terms of the environment, using natural and organic beauty products means doing away with destructive ingredients such as microbeads (tiny plastic beads in facial scrubs that are consumed by marine life).

2.

What inspired you to start using organic products and then to start blogging about them?

I started using natural and organic products at university, after a bit of a lifestyle overhaul. First year had been a lot of fun, but too many late nights (from both deadlines and parties) and too much alcohol had left me feeling low. I started doing yoga and began ordering organic food boxes to our shared house (everyone else thought I was crazy!). When I discovered natural and organic beauty products, I was immediately hooked. I replaced one or two products at a time, ordering online and occasionally making a little pilgrimage to Whole Foods. I love it. There's not one conventional beauty product I miss.

Back then (six years ago) there were far fewer skincare and makeup brands, so it was lucky I opted for quite natural looks. But now there is every shade you could possibly imagine.

I started blogging because I loved the style of YouTubers and bloggers such as Vivianna Does Makeup, Samantha Maria and Lily Pebbles, but I wasn't interested in the products they were talking about. So I decided to write and film myself!

I've discovered a wonderful community along the way. Green beauty bloggers are incredibly kind and supportive.

3. Can you pick two favourite natural beauty products?

It's incredibly hard to pick just two products! But I'll choose two skincare products that I would recommend to everyone. The first is Pai's BioRegenerate Rosehip Oil: this is a rosehip oil that uses both the flesh and the seed of the plant.

It's the best oil I've ever found for healing any scars from blemishes or marks on your face.

The second product would be Lyonsleaf's Beau-

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ty Balm - a rich, shea butter based cleansing balm that removes all makeup and leaves your skin impossibly soft. Both Lyonsleaf and Pai are organic, British brands, and their products are handmade in England. Pai's rosehip oil is £22.00 and the Lyonsleaf Beauty Balm is £12.95, and both products will last you for ages.

4. What affordable natural beauty products do you recommend?

There's a real misconception that natural and organic beauty has to be expensive. A handmade product with organically certified ingredients will potentially cost more than a conventional counterpart, but there are lots of affordable options. For skincare I really like the Faith in Nature Intensive Moisturiser (£6.95) and the aforementioned Lyonsleaf Beauty Balm. A large bottle of Dr Bronners Magic Soap can work as a shower gel, shaving gel, hand soap, washing detergent, stain remover and to wash makeup brushes. Balm Balm and Skin Blossom make very affordable skincare products that are certified organic by the Soil Association (the strictest certification). I highly recommend Balm Balm's Geranium Balm at £6.99 and Floral Rose Water at £11.00. My sister also swears by Organic Surge - especially their Brightening Hot Cloth Cleanser for £13.95. Oh, and if you get sore hands in the winter, try the Weleda Skin Food - a green beauty classic (loved by Victoria Beckham) for £9.95.

Lavera also make a summery coconut-scented Exotic Body Lotion for £8.45.

As for affordable makeup, some of my favourite brands are Lavera (for creamy foundations at £12.90 and bold lipsticks at £11.90), Benecos for the perfect Eyeshadow Quattro in Coffee & Cream (£6.95) and soft lip and eye liners in an array of colours for £3.95 each. I also really like the French natural brand Avril - their mascara (£5.95), lip crayons (£4.25) and pressed blushers (£4.85) are all lovely.

Mineral makeup is also a really good option - it tends to be more affordable, and feels wonderfully light on your skin. My favourite brand is Honeypie Minerals - especially their foundation (£12.99) and blushers in Sorbet (£5.99) and Yellow Correcting Concealer (£5.99). I also like Lily Lolo: their blusher in Cherry Blossom (£8.39) and loose mineral eyeshadow in Gold Digger (£5.99) have been favourites of mine for years.

In general, buying makeup online can be tricky, but it's worth it - you won't find the best brands in Boots. Instead, make a little trip to Whole Foods....

Š www.viviennewestwood.com/savethearctic

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Š Jaden Smith in Louis Vuitton womenswear campaign.

Taken by Bruce Weber for Louis Vuitton SS16.]

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Gendered fashion on its way out?

Text: Victoria Hill-Chalmers

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ur entire lives, there’s been a stigma associated with wearing “clothes for the opposite gender”. Some people get it more than others, but it’s always there. We even find ourselves doing it, making comments about how a boy’s tee has a “feminine” style or a girl wearing jeans and t-shirts all the time is “a tomboy”. But is this divide nearing its end?

of deviating from that. The thing is, gender has been socially constructed to remove the supposed ‘confusion’ of androgyny. Whilst the binary should have worked as a guideline from the getgo, its enforcement has become aggressive.

One particularly topical example is the debut of Jaden Smith as one of Louis Vuitton’s womenswear models. As a male celebrity, this caused quite a stir. Jaden, however, didn’t see it as a problem. “I don’t see man clothes and woman clothes,” he’s quoted as saying, “I just see scared people and comfortable people."

But people are starting to break that down, and it’s no wonder why. 81% (of a sample of 1000) 13 to 20-year-olds said that they felt gender shouldn’t define a person, and more than half even said that they knew someone who used gender-neutral pronouns (i.e. zhe, they). You’ve got to admit that’s a pretty big percentage, especially since it includes 13-year-olds (who, to my knowledge, are generally not so accepting of difference).

In this statement, he’s saying that gender is irrelevant. People are people. The only distinction between them is that some wear what they want and feel comfortable, whilst others follow the set “gender norm” and feel scared

So are we completely ready to say goodbye?

Not entirely, no. Just like with any movement, there’s opposition. The main problem is a lack of understanding that makes people, shall we say, dubious of the movement’s legitimacy. Many

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older individuals see the falsehood of gender binaries as a sort of “trend” among the younger generations, when that’s actually not the case.

Non-binary sexualities and genders have actually existed just as long as the binaries themselves – the only problem is that since maybe ancient times, “good society” stuck its nose into everyone’s business and made norms a thing.

great, though, is that it’s not getting entirely shut down by the majority. A lot of people are actually celebrating the freedom of self-expression.

Hopefully one day soon, people won’t have to be “scared”, like Jaden said, of showing people who they really are.

Another popular celebrity, Ruby Rose – from OITNB – is vocal about her gender fluidity, and doesn’t identify as male or female specifically.]

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© Ruby Rose rocking gender neutrality. Source: Rex Features.

People are not yet ready to embrace humanity and its quirks as one big grey area. We’re a race that likes to understand everything (the question of “the meaning of life”, anyone?) so labels are pretty hard to get out of our systems. What’s

Come see him live: Sat 7th May 2016 - 8.10-8.50 229 The Venue 229 Great Portland St W1W 5PN London Fri 13th May - 10.15-10.45 Spice of Life, Soho, London For more information and to listen to his music, go to: www.BenNoke.com Or follow him on social media: Instagram: BenNoke FB: /Bennoke1 Twitter: @Bennok1 YouTube: /Bennoke

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Skint Fashion: How To Dress Well On A Student Budget Text: Montserrat Fernandez

It’s well-known that university students never have any money to spare. If it’s a struggle to buy food to survive (shout-out to Tesco value), then it is virtually impossible to upgrade your wardrobe. But don’t be too disheartened, there are many ways in which you can spend less money on stylish clothes- simply follow these tips to get the perfect clothes for a perfect price.

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1. Sell your old clothes on eBay and Depop, as well as buying!

People are always browsing and looking for specific things on eBay, so if you have any old clothes, shoes, accessories that are in good wearable condition, or even an old carpet that you no longer want, then eBay is your new friend. It is definitely a great way to start clearing out your wardrobe and save up for a new one. It is also the best place to get good bargains!

If you don’t fancy eBay, then head over to Depop - the “shop in your pocket” app is a new way to sell and buy good items from all over the country. Just take pictures with your mobile phone of the items you want to sell and immediately upload them on to your page. It is fun and quirky, and you can even share your posts on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. Look for the style you like and follow sellers to get their latest items on your feed.

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2. Charity shops in Guildford Second hand clothing stores might not be your cup of tea, but they are a blessing. If you have a good eye, you will find amazing items that look just like the clothes in the high street shops, for only a few pounds. If you get even luckier, you can find designer vintage garments too!

3. Online Shopping Buying online might seem an expensive way to shop, but there are actually loads of clothing websites out there that offer stylish garments for very low prices. Here are a few that you should definitely check out: Ark Clothing: www.ark.co.uk Less than 10 pounds: www.lessthan10pounds.com Everything 5 pounds: www.everything5pounds.com Select Fashion: www.selectfashion.co.uk Boohoo: www.boohoo.com

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4. Portsmouth If you plan a trip to the seaside, be sure to head over to the Southsea area for great affordable vintage and second hand shops. For cute garments then head over to the Community Fusion Shop, where you will find great clothes, accessories and even underwear for very good prices.

If you are into markets and quite frankly tired of wearing the same Topshop or New Look bought clothing as the next person, then look out for the Southsea Flea Market! A fun event where you can find cool and trendy retro and vintage clothes for prices as low as 50p! If the idea still doesn’t quite entice you; think of the handmade cakes and tea after.

Here is a list of some charity shops around town: Phyllis Tuckwell Hospice Shop Phoenix Court 6 Phoenix Ct 01483 532123 Debra 209 Epsom Rd 01483 456603 Marie Curie Shop 4 Eastgate Court, High street 01483 578083 Cancer Research UK 258 High St 01483 562146 Oxfam Shop 66 Quarry St 01483 560722 Save The Children 6 Jeffries Passage 01483 561650 26

5. London If you fancy a trip to London and are a vintage lover, then check out the East End Thrift Store located in Stepney, near Whitechapel – London’s only vintage fill-a-bag store where you will find amazing bargains. Filled with rows of retro and second hand clothes, you will be sure to find something of your taste. They even host special events such as the £1 sale and late night parties where you can get great discounts and there’s a free bar! So make sure you like them on Facebook to keep up to date with their latest events!

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Photography: Laure Komoe Models: Zehra Uluoz, Seun Onatade, Irmak Olzeci, Aisha Akeem, Darren Tindall, Dimitra Drakopoulou, Elpida Komianou, Eklavya (Lav) Juneja Makeup: Setareh Sanjarani Creative Assistant: Alice Vily Post-Production: Setareh Sanjarani and Rebecca Cofie

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Trends Trends Trends Text: Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou)

F

ashion is blamed for being flimsy and whimsical – the colors, the patterns, the ideas change every season and so do the magazines’ lists of “must-haves” for the upcoming season. Evil lists, result of a scheme to push the crowds towards consumerism- to convince them to spend money on a 70s-inspired shirt that they can wear for a maximum of three months until the new collections bring back the 60s and then the 80s….

Let’s face it. The average student doesn’t have the money to buy every new-season “essential” – I know I’m waiting for the January sales to splash out on Primark every year. But each season brings out new ideas that can rejuvenate our wardrobes; they remind us of that pair of jeans we bought a few years ago that is now in some dark corner of our drawers, that flashy shirt we never thought we’d wear, that monochrome sweater we received as a gift last year… New trends can revamp items of clothing or inspire us to go out and try something new and possibly discover that we look good in high-waist trousers instead of the mid-rise jeans we always went for.

Therefore, trend reports can be used as guides that gather the best ideas from the season’s catwalks. We can thumb through them for inspiration, take a good look at our wardrobe and discover something new. Besides, nothing brightens up long days in lecture theaters and all-nighters at the library like a new staple wardrobe item that makes us look good despite the dark circles under our eyes…

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Dress: TOPSHOP Brown Heeled Sandals: River Island

FASHION Models: Dan Gallagher, Lamine Diouf, Rebecca Foster Make-up & clothes: models’ own Styling: Karan Sharma, Honey Kilaso-Adelaja, Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou) Photography & post-production: Setareh Sanjarani

Shirt: Topman Jeans: H & M Sneakers: PUMA 29

Spring/Summer 2016 – Top picks

T-shirt and shorts: Primark Shoes: ZARA 30

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Jumper: ZARA Jeans: Zara Black shirt: Primark 31

Shift from plunge-lines and bralets to the ultimate boho top; bare shoulders is a laidback approach to sexy.

Boho Top: Zara Ripped Denim Jeans: ZARA Black Heeled Sandals: ZARA

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a) Womenswear The transition from winter to spring is not very evident in Britain, an island that is always windswept and rainy. However, despite the inevitable rainfalls, the temperature will slowly rise and our wardrobe should adjust accordingly.

The S/S 16 collections place the emphasis on femininity and comfort, but at the same time the designers succumbed to a wave of romanticism and nostalgia‌ All kinds of stripes The nautical shirt was transformed from an ordinary item of clothing for sailors to a chic essential by Coco Chanel and was soon loved by many. But this season it’s not just about nautical prints; all kinds of stripes have been noticed on shirts, skirts, sweaters and dresses. Prada takes it to the extreme, with lines and lines of eye-catching colors clashing with each other, while JW Anderson and Calvin Klein are not far behind.

For more affordable options, River Island stylist Grace Cobb compliments the playfulness and versatility of the 2016 stripes, which have also charmed Miss Selfridge and Dorothy Perkins.

Off-shoulder tops Showing some skin is always acceptable in springtime, but this time the focus shifts from V-necks to tops that reveal shoulders, as worn in Balmain, Givenchy and Wes Gordon. The off-shoulder trend can be found in the new H & M collection and at Miss Selfridge.

Re-imagined florals The usual prints of spring are rejuvenated; dark florals take over, exuding an aura of romance and mystery, while other old-fashioned prints acquire a modern twist on skirts and dresses with a thigh-slit (Topshop Unique collection).

Additionally, Zara is taking note of the delicate meadow prints that emerge again in the catwalks of Alexander McQueen and Valentino, whereas the new River Island collection is more interested in the clashing prints of Kenzo and Dries van Noten, which create intensity and give florals a modern vibe.

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Frills This winter’s collections were inspired by the Victorian era and the gothic romance. The continuation is a lighter version of the Victorian elegance; shirts and dresses with ruffles became staples in many collections, especially in the hands of the master Giambattista Valli.

Even Topshop succumbed to the nostalgia and romance of a ruffled dress with a thigh-slit or a blouse with frills.

The 90s slip dress Shedding off layers and opting for thinner fabrics is a tell-tale sign of spring. Dior’s SS16 focused on such airy, almost translucent material, going back to the 90s slip dress. The iconic item was also found in the catwalks of Saint Laurent and Alexander Wang, famous for their grungy outtake on clothing. Of course the high street is also buzzing; for a night out, raid the shelves of Urban Outfitters and Zara and, once again, River Island (another trend Grace Cobb swears by).

Accessorising….

Long, dangling, bold earrings (Zara, Accessorize), a chic version of the backpack (as seen in Burberry) and a new appreciation for flat shoes were some of the trends in the accessories that were selected for many outfits this season, giving something extra to everyday and party wear.

Ditch the heels for sneakers; pair them with dungarees for the ultimate denim ss16 look.

Dungarees: ZARA Sports bra: NIKE 34

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Embrace the backpack for your summer adventures.

Dress: BELOVED Backpack: ZARA MEN 35

b) Menswear Slouchy tailoring Spring is no time for tight-fitting skinny jeans; why boil in them when you can take a step back and relax? Laid-back tailoring is key this season from JW Anderson and Marc Jacobs to Topman, Zara and H&M. Topman Unique in fact showcased many wide-leg trousers Mick-Jagger style, but, for those who prefer a sharper look, slightly wide and slouchy suiting is also available in the high street.

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Bombers and Suedes Hedi Slimane and Alexander Wang won’t let the bomber jacket go out of style and as Britain transitions from rainy cold days to slightly less rainy cold days, nothing says urban cool more than a bomber jacket. Urban Outfitters have caught on the trend early and Zara is following, but with a special twist: longer bomber jackets for extra cool.

Equally popular is the suede fabric, both in shirt and in jackets. Not recommended for the rainy spring days, but it is the perfect solution to the sunny days that turn into cold nights as the island slowly gets ready for summer. The look is loved by Mango, Massimo Dutti and Dunhill, but Andrew Davis, styling for River Island, also added it to the brand’s SS16 lookbook.

FASHION Keep your blue shirt this season, as did Eddie Redmayne and David Beckham.

T-shirt: Sports Direct

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Unbutton the shirt of the suit and let it hang loose during the warm days.

Shirt: Primark T-shirt: Comme des Garcons Trousers: Topman

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Utility above all No matter what jacket you choose though, the designers have caved in to utility for the summer: jackets heavy in pockets are all over the high end and high street shops. Take note of River Island’s pockets, Zara’s four-pocket parkas, and Urban Outfitter’s pocket-heavy shirts and denim jackets. Ideal to store all your essentials for a day out in the sunshine.

Fifty shades of gray… and blue and green Oliver Spencer and Paul Smith are graying-up the runway with shady tailoring, while Eddie Redmayne (voted best-dressed Briton for 2016) is openly declaring his love for blue. The H&M seems to also favour blue in its new spring line in collaboration with David Beckham. However, olive is also claiming its place in the spotlight in the racks of Urban Outfitters, while Andrew Davis suggests military outwear for a more grounded approach to spring.

Innocent denim We’ve seen it all when it comes to denim: skinny, washed-out, ripped, dark, light… and now wide or more distressed than ever. Yet the designers have another ace up their sleeve: white denim is back in the catwalks for Dior Homme, Tommy Hilfiger and Topman Design and it has also found a place in the David Beckham lookbook.

One of the most chic trends for spring, it can be accentuated by brown belts, patterned sweaters and buttoned-down shirts.

Accessorising…

Leaving the much-loved winter beanies behind, menswear models are sporting baseball caps in Calvin Klein, Versace and Balmain. Raid the high street (Nike is a great choice) for this easy and stylish solution to a bad hair day – although considered an essential element of a casual look. For a more sophisticated occasion, don’t ditch your winter accessories just yet: long scarves were used in Missoni, Saint Laurent and of course Burberry Prorsum. Opt for a thinner fabric with a dash of colour to compliment a spread-collar spring jacket.

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The bomber jacket is and always will be an essential.

Bomber jacket: River Island Navy Jeans: River Island

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FASHION Ditch the suffocating suit for a more relaxed tailoring‌ Coat: ZARA Shirt: Topman Jeans: H & M

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Fashion and Philosophy: Representing the ‘Self’ 43

Text: Lara Dal Molin Illustration: Montserrat Fernandez

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n the mid-19th Century, the Decadent movement took the Pre-Raphaelites’ love of sensual beauty a few steps further and made their creed “Art for Art’s sake”, in the belief that art was a self-sufficient entity. Aestheticism then spread all over Europe, especially in England, France and Italy, proclaiming aesthetic values and symbols more important than the social aspects of art, such as music and literature. The culmination of this movement was reached with the brilliant and witty figure of Oscar Wilde, who became an undisputed authority in London in matters of fashion. He and his followers were extremely eccentric and insolent, and with their enigmatic behavior they changed the meaning of art and fashion forever. Style could suddenly be interpreted in many different ways. Wilde believed, for instance, that the dress should liberate, not restrain, the girl. Who needs those uncomfortable corsets?

Who wants to be dressed with a million laces that make it so hard to breathe? The Aesthetic movement, for the first time, made fashion a protest to all that’s been before. This attitude has guided fashion ever since; nowadays designers keep challenging themselves and breaking the mold, creating new fashion with every collection.

Philosophy is often said to be what’s necessary in every art and science, and it literally means “love of wisdom”, from the ancient Greek words philein (to love) and sophia (wisdom), and it is a search for knowledge that comes from questioning the world around us. Soren Kierkegaard is a Danish philosopher that lived in the first half of 1800s, and his problem was the choice, which he described as an endless enigma. In The Concept of Anxiety and The Sickness unto Death he mentions the two emotions that in his belief constant-

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ly haunt the human being: anxiety and despair.

Anxiety is a feeling towards the external world, which arises when one has to make a choice without any criteria. Despair is a more internal feeling, caused by the choice of accepting or rejecting oneself. According to Kierkegaard, in every situation throughout life, one shall experience either one or the other of these two sensations. It is possible to apply a philosophical approach to all that’s related to a decision. Today, choices still define our lives – from our wardrobe to our career and to our personal life. However, what is choice now? Is there a philosopher who tries to find an answer to the matter?

Opening the wardrobe and choosing something to wear during the day is one of our bravest everyday actions. Wearing some clothes is not an attempt to distort our image; instead it represents our true self, what actually is in our mind.

Clothes reflect mood, habits and attitudes. Every single detail, present or missing, tells a story, and as we live in those details we are as open as a book. The clothes we wear know us better than ourselves. As we walk out of our individual solitude and lock the door behind us, we are presenting our appearance and forcing everybody around us to see ourselves for who we are.

Fashion is created by the transformation of a social obligation – wearing something in order not to walk around naked – into a form of art.

This is a step further from acceptance: it’s making acceptance into something to be proud of, by cancelling a convention and building on its ashes.

creative process is lost in the process itself. Art does not exist outside of its own limits, just as a piece of clothing by itself lies as a dead body, and means nothing. Fashion and philosophy are similar because neither of them in their deepest meaning is pragmatic, but they are both defined as essential. This is a controversy that’s just possible to resolve in the sentence: ‘art is all quite useless’. Philosophy is not an art, but the study and the attempt of explanation of problems, questions and, most of all, choices. Fashion is a choice, and in its essence is free from ideologies, markets, labels and brands. Wearing what we like shows a strong will to mark our place in the world and to be seen.

Maybe fashion is useless, but behind fashion is choice. Choice is what characterizes people with free will and therefore is what makes people who they are. Fashion is not about the basic needs of existence – it is about being alive and living in a world with a deeper meaning. Can, therefore a creative process be at the same time both vital and pointless? In this case yes, because it’s our weapon against an induced totalitarianism and corruption, and an escape from the boring and the commonplace. As it has been said, life’s too short to wear boring clothes.

As Oscar Wilde states in the introduction to The Picture of Dorian Gray, the whole point of a

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YOUR BODY, YOUR WAY. 46

Text: Holly Butteriss Illustration: Montserrat Fernandez

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n the last year, we have seen a significant shift in the media coverage of the plus size fashion industry. When Calvin Klein revealed their ‘plus size’ model, Myla DalBesio who wears a US size 10 (or a UK 14) the media storm of both praise and critique that followed asked only one vital question: what exactly does a plus size model look like?

The reality is that the average dress size for women is a 16 in the UK, but the fashion industry would have us believe that the label plus size should be stitched into anything size 14 and up.

It’s no secret that women of a fuller figure have always been marginalised by the fashion world, and I’m not just talking about the runway. Most high street stores only carry up to a UK 16, and those that do carry larger sizes often have their plus size range in an entirely different part of the store, or the website if you’re shopping online. Not to mention the fact that the choices for plus size fashion are minimal at best and offensive at worst. It seems that too many (but not all!) fashion retailers are under the impression that plus size women can’t wear crop tops, don’t want to wear a figure-hugging dress, that jeans must be made from the most forgiving fabric possible and that any top we might want to wear should be the equivalent of a shapeless paper bag.

Despite this, with the ever growing ASOS Curve and Boohoo Plus a much wider and more flattering range of options has become available to curvier, younger women. But at the end of the day for a student who’s just a little too ‘thick’ to shop at most high street stores, a wardrobe from ASOS is stretching the weekly budget just a little too far. It’s not easy, and it can make the whole experience of university a lot more daunting when you know you can’t even dress the way you want to on a night out.

FASHION using it on Instagram daily to show off the bodies that too long have been hidden from the world’s eyes in shame.

This kind of empowerment is spreading like wildfire, YouTubers who advocate body positivity like LoeyLane and LearningToBeFearless are gaining subscribers and spreading their message across all social media platforms. Seeing these women love their bodies, wear the clothes that make them feel beautiful and speak openly about the ‘plus size issue’ is undeniably important for young adults who aren’t yet comfortable in their skin to see. Attitudes are changing, the prejudice that has been built up around bodies that don't match society’s ideal is slowly being dismantled. Every time a fashion magazine puts a plus size model on the cover, another brick in that wall comes crashing down.

So no matter your dress size, whether you can shop comfortably in any store, or whether you’re plus size, petite or tall, know that as long as you’re comfortable you can wear whatever you please and you shouldn’t doubt whether it’s ‘appropriate’ for your figure.

Of course, there will always be people that say you can’t wear horizontal stripes because you’ll look wider, and best to avoid bold patterns on your thick thighs too. That short girls shouldn’t wear ankle straps and heaven forbid a slim girl hides in an oversized shirt.

Well, my advice to you would be to go out, buy that crop top you’ve been too afraid to try and wear the hell out of it.

Forget all those fashion ‘rules’ they’ve been telling us and just do you. University is a time where you can explore your identity and grow as a person, your wardrobe shouldn't limit that expression of yourself.

After all, it’s your body, your way.

However, body positive movements like #effyourbeautystandards founded by a truly plus size model, Tess Holliday, gives me hope for the future of fashion for curvy girls. The hashtag has launched a huge campaign all centred on the idea that all bodies are beautiful no matter shape or size. Thousands of people are 47

© Olivia Mitchell

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© Olivia Mitchell

© Olivia Mitchell

MUSIC

BBC Radio 1 Presents…

Text: Olivia Mitchell For most students, it was a fairly average Monday evening.

But not for me.

That evening I stood in the O2 Forum in Kentish Town with a cider in hand, waiting in anticipation for Annie Mac to walk on stage and start the show.

I’ve been lucky enough to have seen an incredible number of amazing artists, either at festivals or concerts, but this was different; it was going to be the first performance of many songs from the 1975’s new album ‘I like it when you sleep, for you are so beautiful yet so unaware of it’, as well as an exclusive performance from Jake Bugg and Lady Leshurr. It was also the first time that I’ve been to the O2 Forum, and if you haven’t been, I really recommend it! I often feel that the venue can add to the value of a gig and in this case, although it is a big venue compared to the O2 Academies dotted around the country, it still felt like an intimate gig.

Jake Bugg was the first to perform, with an almost 40-minute set. I’m very much a fan of Jake Bugg, and I found his set a perfect mixture of new and old music.

When you see him live, he really comes to life, and it’s clear just how talented he is, since his live performance sounds like his recorded material, if not better. He was the perfect choice to start the night; the atmosphere during his set was very friendly, with everyone happily singing and dancing along.

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Following Jake Bugg was Lady Leshurr. Now I must be honest, the grime/hip-hop scene isn’t my type of music. However I do respect her for what she does; it is clear that she is a very talented MC. I didn’t know any of her songs, but there were many in the crowd who did, and again she had a knack for keeping the atmosphere full of excitement.

For me, the night was very much about The 1975, especially after the release of their new album only a few days prior to the gig. Their set was about 45 minutes long, and I can honestly say it was incredible. Taking a step away from the live set, ’I like it when you sleep, for you are so beautiful yet so unaware of it’, is an incredible piece of art, even if the title has been self-declared as pretentious. It is one of those albums that you listen to from start to finish, and it really takes you on a journey, much like a book. I find that albums like this are increasingly rare nowadays, but I find that The 1975 are a breath of fresh air for the music scene of 2016.

Although they weren’t a part of the live set, the last three songs of the album (‘Paris’, ‘Nana’, and ‘She Lays Down’) are different to the sound of the rest of the album, but act as a superb conclusion; I really recommend a listen even if you aren’t the biggest fan of The 1975.

I know that, as a fan, I may be biased, but I loved their live performance! What I found surprising was just how well the majority of people knew the lyrics to the songs performed - especially ‘Somebody Else’ and ‘If I Believe You’, as neither of these have been released as singles yet. Overall, their sound is slightly different live; they took a slightly more rock-y stance, but with the use of a live choir and trumpeter for ‘If I Believe You’, plus use of synthesisers throughout. I feel like they firmly established their new image and sound at this exclusive performance. Even their performance of ‘Chocolate’ and ‘Girls’ had a slightly more mature twist to it.

From my perspective, it is fair to say that The 1975 were the stars of this set, with their style and attitude and the ease with which they conveyed emotion through not just the emotional songs such as ‘Somebody Else’, but also the upbeat numbers such as ‘Love Me’. The 1975 put on an amazing show that was much appreciated by not only me, but also those around me.

© Olivia Mitchell

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Š Olivia Mitchell

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I was lucky enough for a friend to get me a ticket, but all the tickets were cheap, so I would recommend keeping an eye out for any artists that you’d like to see live. Plus, there was very little time spent standing around without music, since the event was presented by a Radio 1 DJ - the most time we waited between acts must have been 15 minutes.

Overall, the night was one to remember, despite the pint of beer that was poured on me by accident, and I feel very lucky that I was able to see such talented artists within the space of two hours. I would recommend any of these artists for you to check out – they’re definitely worth it!

(The full performance is still available on BBC Radio 1 iPlayer.)

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Bring the #Blackout Text: Victoria Hill-Chalmers Illustration: Montserrat Fernandez

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he idea of “Blackout” has come to refer to quite a few different things, but mostly to the activist movements of people of colour in pursuit of true equality. In late 2014, the phrase came to be associated with the idea to boycott Black Friday in the US, following the announcement that Darren Wilson would not be charged for the shooting of Michael Brown on August 9th. But last year, the phrase came to mean the appreciation of the beauty of black people on social media.

Those involved with the movement took to posting selfies with the hashtag #BlackOutDay on the 6th of March 2015 on social media platforms. The idea originated from a feeling that there was too much emphasis on images of white or European beauty, creating a “blackout” of its own in the media and on the internet – those with dark skin were left out. It was time to reverse this.

It is difficult to pinpoint the creator of the movement, since it was the result of a combined effort, but one of its pioneers, T’von, explained why the movement started: “I was really sick and tired of seeing the 'European standard of beauty’ [...] It’s past time for the beauty of black people to be showcased. I love all people of colour, but this here is for us”. In taking part, individuals were making a statement: “we are beautiful, we deserve to be seen and appreciated”.

Ferguson, an original cause for unrest within the black community, which continued for an entire year following the death of Michael Brown, can be seen as somewhat influential. It brought to the attention of many the crystal clear fact that

black people are still being oppressed, even in our modern times. The taking over of social media with self-celebratory photos was a way for them to take things in their own hands, forcing people globally to see and accept them as real, beautiful people.

The movement was a success. So much so in fact that many individuals attempted to thwart its efforts… but to no avail. Instead, the movement grew stronger. From March 6th and onwards there were days set aside each month, which black individuals could dedicate to celebrating themselves and their heritage, with many messages explaining why people needed #BlackOut and how good it made them feel.

One Tumblr-famous woman of colour, Maame Yaa Ansah, said that “movements like BlackOut are helping to mainstream different types of beauty”. “We have a bit of a way,” she explains, “but we are making progress.”

So what of the future of BlackOut? The plan is to honour the movement on the 6th of every third month – March, June, September and December 6. How may we support it and help it achieve its full potential? By helping out, of course! Blog about the movement, retweet and like the selfies of people of colour and show your support through social media in any other way, not just on the above dates but all year round.

Get involved if you are yourself a person of colour and show the world that beauty is not ethnocentric. We at Subcultured are already looking forward to the 6th of June.

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SURREY STUDENT FEATURE.

SUBCULTURED. 01

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Interviews

Alexander James Moore, We talk to Surrey students about their creative passions, inspirations and life as a student.

Kristiana Vasarina

, Darragh Chaplin 57

Alexander James Moore

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Š Alexander James Moore

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Text: Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou)

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ell us a bit about what you do creatively.

How did it come about? How did you discover you were passionate about it?

My creativity stems from my love of classic cartoons - Paddington Bear, Winnie the Pooh and Rupert Bear – that quite nicely encapsulates my childish mentality! I realized I was fascinated by simple cartoon sketch, mainly black and white, and how slightly tweaked frames of the same shot can come together to form an animation.

This led me to draw my own black-and-white cartoon characters on canvases. The designs were received really well on my former art blog, leading me to design an eclectic mix of characters with their own storylines. I combined my love of sketching with simple fashion and digitally printed the designs onto cotton t-shirts.

Aside from selling cartoon styled t-shirts I enjoy painting with vibrant colours. I’ve recently developed a love for acrylic Magenta, in order to develop abstract art work. I don’t sell this art work but I display 22 pieces of canvas work in my bedroom, which I’ve renamed the Hall of Fame.

I also develop and film artistic videos based around ‘experiences’. These videos include anything from paint fights and releasing a whole land rover of balloons off a car park roof to midnight cycles in London, painting in the Tate Modern, smoking flares whilst having a Teddy Bears Picnic in the rain and spray-painting on entire fields.

What inspires you to create?

Music inspires me greatly; it changes what I see around me and the way I interact with things.

My greatest creative ideas have come whilst listening to music in the shower…weird, but very true!

Additionally, I see painting as a way of escaping

from boredom. My most creative spells come when I’m revising - which isn’t always the most suitable time to become creative! It’s different from normal day to day activities. If I’m not physically creating something, like an abstract canvas, then I’m ‘mentally developing’ ideas for future creations - this tends to happen on the tube!

Finally, my relationship inspires me to create. I like to arrange plans for my girlfriend that are unique and exciting! I use all these experiences in my creativity.

What course do you do in university? How do you balance uni life with your creative passion?

I study Retail and Business Management. To put it bluntly, I don’t. I don’t own a calendar or a planner, I’m late for everything and I’ll always choose the more exciting / creative passion over university work. It’s week 3 and I still need to order my text books from Amazon….

Are you in touch with other artists? How do you find the artistic community in the uni?

I have a really great group of creative students in London, ranging from graphic designers to artists at the Royal Academy to freelance cameramen. I love being around them and we’ve opened a couple of exhibitions in Camberwell and Fulham.

When I first arrived at Surrey University I was disappointed to find out that we don’t have an art bloc - the next closest thing is the GSA but I’ve only ever had Starbucks in there! When I saw Rebecca’s email about Subcultured I jumped at the chance to be part of it. It was great to see all these creative people came together in the Teaching Block one evening to get Subcultured up and running.

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What advice would you give to anyone who wants to do what you are doing? (What sort of obstacles may they have to overcome and how can they do it? What steps should they follow?)

My only advice would be to surround yourself with creative people and people that can inspire you - classic advice but so true. I find that when I spend too much time in the business school my creativity is drained and replaced with accounting equations. Also, don’t be afraid to show off your work to other people. I used to keep my work hidden but now I seek out the feedback that will make the next project even better. Just remember, not everyone has the same taste, so there’s always going to be one cynic!

Finally, since we have many fashionistas in the magazine, I need to ask: are you interested in fashion? If so, how would you describe your style? Do you have a staple wardrobe item?

My interest in fashion starts and ends with myself. If I can’t imagine myself wearing something that is being displayed at a shop window, then I lose interest. I will go out of my way to find something that’s different and really suits me. I hate the over-used word ‘Indie’ (it sounds a bit pretentious) but I would say that’s the style I gravitate towards -without being full-out Urban Outfitters!

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© Alexander James Moore

Where are you going from here? Do you have any future plans or aspirations?

My future aspirations are to develop a clothing line, starting with simple cartoon sketches and moving into more progressive fashion, whilst funding my way through university. In terms of career path I have always aimed at going into Account Management in Advertising, but in the long term I would like to open my own creative retail space. The idea is still very hazy but I’m working on it!

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Kristiana Vasarina

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Š Kristiana Vasarina

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Text: Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou)

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ell us a bit about what you do creatively.

How did it come about? How did you discover you were passionate about it?

In my free time I write a fashion and lifestyle blog called Styled by Kristiana. Generally, I put emphasis on sharing my outfits, but I also occasionally include my favourite places to eat, travel posts and events that I attend. I started my blog back in 2009, when I discovered Lookbook.nu, and ended up following lots of people. The concept of sharing your life, especially your love for fashion, was very new to the internet back then, and people thought I was being narcissistic, but I loved the idea of inspiring others, so I stuck with it. Almost 7 years later, and I’m still blogging and loving it!

What inspires you to create?

Personally what inspires me most is knowing that I have an audience that is willing to take in my advice and read what I have to say. There are so many blogs out there nowadays, so it’s very easy to get lost in the crowd and lose your mojo.

What I also love about blogging is that there is a personal element to it, which is what I try to maintain throughout my blog; it is a stamp of individuality and that is what makes blogging unique and attractive to people.

What course do you do in university? How do you balance uni life with your creative passion?

I’m currently in my final year of Business and Retail Management. It’s been a blast, but, honestly, my blog struggled quite a bit as university work took priority. It’s all about time management -scheduling posts in advance, for instance, while trying not to lose track of your coursework.

Are you in touch with other artists? How do you find the artistic community in the uni?

There are definitely a lot of creative students at the University. I’m in touch with a couple of

bloggers, but most of my creative friends are into photography and music, which I really enjoy too.

What advice would you give to anyone who wants to do what you are doing? (What sort of obstacles may they have to overcome and how can they do it? What steps should they follow?)

I would say that the most important thing in blogging is to be truly passionate about it and to do it for the right reasons. People recognize truly passionate people, and it will pay off, I promise!

It also really helps if you can find your own niche.

Probably the most common obstacle in blogging is time management. This depends on your personal skills and it takes time to figure out how you will fit it around your timetable. Practice makes perfect, and if practice does not work out, you can always invest in a daily planner!

Where are you going from here? Do you have any future plans or aspirations?

I see my blog as a hobby and something that I can do in my free time. In the future, I would like to focus on my career, while still maintaining my blog and attending fashion events. Ideally my career will be in e-commerce for a successful retail company. But we’ll see!

Finally, since we have many fashionistas in the magazine, I need to ask: are you interested in fashion? If so, how would you describe your style? Do you have a staple wardrobe item?

Fashion is definitely something that interests me. However, I find myself drawn more to personal, more everyday style rather than what we see on catwalks. My style is very classic and often consists of monochromatic colours. It also really depends on whether I’m at a 9AM lecture or at a fashion event in London! My main wardrobe staple is definitely a good pair of jeans.

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Darragh Chaplin

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Text: Akanshya Gurung

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ell us a bit about what you do creatively.

How did it come about? How did you discover you were passionate about it?

I started doing music when I was really really young. I’ve always been surrounded by music because I come from a really musical family: my dad sings and plays saxophone, my brother plays guitar and bass and my mum just loves music!

When I was younger, my dad was really into Blues and Jazz, so he was playing jazz musicians like Charley Parker and Miles Davis around the house, while my mum was into Earl Fitzgerald. These musicians were the earliest influences I had.

As I got older, I started playing drums - that was my first instrument at 11. Then I picked up a guitar when I was 14. I used to sing from an early age, so I naturally progressed into playing acoustic guitar and singing at the same time.

And then the whole singer-songwriter thing came up, and I drew inspiration from people like Ed Sheeran, Ben Howard and other really good song writers like Damien Rice. That’s how my creative journey began.

What inspires you to create?

When it comes to creating, I get influenced by a lot of personal experiences. If I’m going through something emotionally that’s affecting me, then my personal way of dealing with it would be to write a song about it, to get my emotions out with a pen and paper, and try to transform my feelings into a melody.

What course do you do in university? How do you balance uni life with your creative passion?

I am doing a Music degree, so it’s easier for me to balance my university work with my creativity, because they are connected. So when it comes to things like preforming at a university event, a lot of things are ran by the music/arts department, and it’s easier for me, as a music student, to get involved. But obviously we also learn additional things, like experimental music, and that broadens my horizons. It makes me think ‘OK, I can create different things’ and it gives me more insight into the world of music.

Are you in touch with other artists? How do you find the artistic community in the university?

I find the music scene at the university quite good. There are a lot of opportunities to perform: we have lunchtime concerts on Wednesdays at the music department, and on most Fridays there are music events. And it’s the same in the rest of Guildford- there are always open mic nights at different bars and clubs, while it is not unlikely for people to listen to your CD and invite you to play. It’s quite an expansive music community in comparison to other areas, so it’s good to get in contact with as many people as possible. I think if I was to just stick to the university, despite how good the music scene is, I would be limiting myself.

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What advice would you give to anyone who wants to do what you are doing? (What sort of obstacles may they have to overcome and how can they do it? What steps should they follow?)

In terms of advice, if you want to start performing and you want to start song writing…I know its like the cheesiest thing in the world…but literally throw yourself into it. Keep on trying and don’t stop because the more you stop, the harder it gets to start again.

There’s a thing I tried out a while ago called the ‘One Song a Day’ challenge, where you write a song a day just to see…and eventually you will get a good song. Not every song you write will be good- I’ve written some really terrible songs… but for every ten terrible songs, there will be a good one. So I think it’s worth practicing over and over.

Starting something like music can be quite daunting because it’s such a big thing, but don’t be afraid to try things you may not be comfortable with. You have to throw yourself into the deep end. And don’t do it to impress other people, do it because it’s something you enjoy doing. Do it for yourself. The more and more you start to realise that this is your passion, this is what you enjoy doing, this is what you want to be doing, the more you’ll start to enjoy it. That’s the important thing.

What is the biggest thing that has happened to you this year because of your creative activities?

I’d say the biggest thing this year was getting radio time on Eagle radio- the local radio for Surrey and Hampshire. I mean that just came through because I sent them an email about my song, and they liked it and invited me to record a session with them.

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Where are you going from here? Do you have any future plans or aspirations?

At the moment, I’m focusing on writing more than gigging. I’m trying to get myself a really nice body of work, like a four-track EP, which I can then publish, put it on iTunes, on Spotify etc. and which I can send to different people, in order to get a slot at venues. Of course, I still enjoy performing and I am trying to do that more as well.

Finally, since we have many fashionistas in the magazine, I need to ask: are you interested in fashion? If so, how would you describe your style? Do you have a staple wardrobe item?

I am interested in fashion! I do like to dress well.

For winter, my wardrobe staple item is a blue, warm peacoat from GAP, while for autumn or spring I throw on my ripped denim jacket with the fur collar. A staple combination for me is plain black skinny jeans with my patterned brogue-style, mid-top leather boots and a button-down shirt.

Click on symbol to view video /darragh-Chaplin /DarraghChaplinMusic

Read more interviews with Surrey students at: www.Subculturedmag.com

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STAFF SHOOT We got our team together to talk about their work in the magazine and how it all began‌. #SUBCULTUREDSQUAD

Photography: Rebecca Cofie Post-production: Olivia Mitchell Interviews: Katherine Skippon, Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou) Many thanks to Sufi Haroon for providing the location 68

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Editor-in-Chief and Creative Director

Rebecca Cofie What do you study and what year are you in?

Liberal Arts and Sciences, first year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

I was thinking of creative things to do outside of my course, and I thought I could do this campus street style feature. I emailed The Stag’s fashion section, but they replied saying no because that section is completely full and covered. So I thought ‘I’ll just start my own!’, and I did. I googled student fashion magazines and found out they’re a common thing for universities to have, and it matches everything I’ve been doing for the past few years. I thought of all of the creative people I knew, and a few things happened 70

like signs that I should do this. I sent round the mass email the day after Halloween, and got a reply every few hours for a week which was really exciting because I didn’t think anyone would be interested!

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

I can do anything I want to do with it, because it’s my creation. It’s exactly what I want to do: fashion communication, and it’s a great extra-curricular project.

Managing Director (Editorial, Art/Design, Videography, Photography)

Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou) What do you study and what year are you in?

I do law and I’m in my first year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

Definitely the people. I’ve met some pretty cool people and I keep meeting new people‌ it is definitely the most fun part of the job.

I went to that first meeting we had after the mass email and then after that I just kept bugging Rebecca with questions and helping out and just kind of working more and more on the magazine.

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Editorial Director

Katherine Skippon What do you study and what year are you in?

Sociology, second year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

Rebecca sent out the mass email and I thought, it sounds very interesting, so I replied and then I went along to the meeting. There were a lot of creative people and I was a bit scared off, but then as soon as Rebecca talked about writing, I thought, ‘Oh I can do this.’ It was through involvement with writing that I got into the team.

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What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

My favourite part is getting to be really creative I never really managed to do that in my degree as much as I can when I am working for the magazine. Obviously meeting all the new people and getting to write my own articles about stuff I’m interested in is really cool as well.

Editorial Team From left: Nida Jafri, Katherine Skippon, Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou)

Editorial Assistant & Writer

Nida Jafri What do you study and what year are you in?

I’m doing economics and maths, and I’m a first year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

I think there’s a massive gap in Surrey for high fashion reports and street style that the university wasn’t aware of. The magazine really brings creative people together.

I actually replied to Rebecca’s very first mass email, because I was really excited!

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Writers

From left to right: Jess Madanayake, Montserrat Fernandez, Katherine Skippon, Lara dal Molin, Alice Vily

Jess Madanayake, Montserrat Fernandez & Lara Dal Molin What do you study and what year are you in?

Jess: English literature with Creative Writing, second year.

Montserrat: I do media studies, and I’m in my final year.

Lara: I study Liberal Arts and Sciences and I’m a first-year.

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she started sending out emails, but before sending out emails she wanted to ask advice and talk to someone. So we had a chat together and I was really happy to get involved in the magazine and support her.

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

Jess: It’s both the writing experience that I’m getting and getting to work with people, because, although I haven’t met everyone, I’ve been able to How did you get involved in the magazine in communicate with people really well and everythe first place? one’s been really helpful. So it’s nice to have had that.

Jess: I heard about it from an e-mail, I think, Montserrat: I get to practise my writing skills and and I decided to just come along to the first I get to illustrate, which is something I’ve always meeting. I was really interested, so I joined. wanted to do. Also being part of the whole comMontserrat: I got the mass email from Rebecca, munity and meeting new people is really great. and went along to the first meeting- I was really Lara: Probably that I’m doing what I really like, interested in it! which is writing. I feel that, in the magazine, Lara: Basically, Rebecca, who started the magthere is a place for everyone, so you can always do azine, is my course-mate. She had the idea and whatever you like for it.

Director of Photography

Setareh Sanjarani What do you study and what year are you in?

I’m second year International Business Management.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

Everyone’s creative vibes are on the same wavelength. Everyone gets along really well in terms of working and no one takes themselves too seriously so we can always have fun.

I responded to the email that Rebecca sent out at the beginning of the year and went out to a meeting. I was really interested so I made sure I was always keen to get involved with everything.

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From left: Setareh & Rebecca Foster

Makeup Artist, Video Editor and in charge of Instagram

Rebecca Foster What do you study and what year are you in?

I’m doing media studies and I’m in my second year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

I saw the mass email Rebecca sent and went to the first meeting.

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What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

The people that I meet, the fact that I get all these cool opportunities and photoshoots I can do cool hair and make-up for.

From left to right: Olivia Mitchell, Juliey (Mai Ahn), Koyin Akinsiku

Marketing Director

Olivia Mitchell What do you study and what year are you in?

Business management and marketing, in first year..

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

The people that you get to work with. You get to meet so many people like you, who care about fashion and art.

Rebecca sent out a mass email and I was interested in the idea, I’m doing a marketing degree anyway and wanted to get involved.

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Online Director

Kristiana Vasarina What do you study and what year are you in?

Business and Retail Management, final year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

I think Rebecca approached me for the online role because of my blogging background.

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What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

I like the fact that it gives me a creative way to express myself during university, which can be a bit monotonous.

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From left: Koyin Akinsiku, Rebecca Foster, Olivia Mitchell, Kristiana Vasarina, Juliey Pham

Marketing Assistants

Juliey Pham & Koyin Akinsiku What do you study and what year are you in?

Juliey: Media studies with film studies, first year.

Koyin: I study psychology, second year How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

Juliey: I got an email from Rebecca which outlined her ideas and intentions about the magazine and I emailed her saying that I want join as well, because her idea was just brilliant. Then I attended some meetings and I thought, ok, I’ m gonna do marketing, because I like going around and speaking to people.

Koyin: I saw a mass email that Rebecca sent out and I was excited by the fact that there’ll be a magazine. I was interested in marketing, so it was the perfect opportunity for me to grab.

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

Juliey: I think I’m really blessed to be surrounded by so many creative, amazing people that have amazing fashion sense. One of the things I like is that I get to be in a very professional, well-connected team. It’s an invaluable learning experience for me and with marketing we can do so much stuff - from social media to going around Manor Park, putting up flyers.

Koyin: The fact that there are so many people involved and we all get on and we are very cool with each other. I met two new people today and we were just chatting on the way over here like we’ve known each other for years, so that’s probably one of my favourite things about the magazine.

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Events Director

Ana-Maria Enache What do you study and what year are you in?

I do International Event Management and I’m in my first year.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

I just found out about Rebecca’s idea through the mass e-mail and then I just attended the first meeting. I was just very excited to contribute, because I already had something in my mind, like an art project, but I just couldn’t find

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the right people. But now I feel like I’m in the right place.

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

I think it’s very open-minded and quite unpredictable. Everybody just comes up with ideas instantly and everything just fits together… it is a very creative process. And it is also a chance to practice what I learn in my course.

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Art/Design Assistant

Michelle O. Moreira What do you study and what year are you in?

I’m in second year, studying digital media.

How did you get involved in the magazine in the first place?

What is your favourite thing about working for the magazine?

Getting together as a team and seeing the outcome at the end, knowing everyone has been working hard. It’s something creative and fun!

Well I saw the mass email, and I’ve always wanted to be part of a magazine! At first I wanted to do journalism at uni, and then I realised I actually want to be a graphic designer, so the magazine really follows on from my interests.

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LAUNCH PARTY What is SUBCULTURED to you? For us, it’s cool pics, good fashion and a lot of fun! So as soon as spring rolled in, we got balloons, blasted the music, turned the lights on and slipped into our most fashionable pieces to celebrate the official launch of our magazine‌

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Photographer: Rebecca Cofie Models: (left to right): Helen Shen, Eklavya Juneja, Melani Krasteva, Javier Mujica, Rengin Akcan Make-Up: Holly Gibbons, Rebecca Foster Clothes: Taiwo Sonekan Post-Production: Rebecca Cofie Creative Assistant: Karan Sharma, Alice Vily (Vasiliki Papadopoulou) Fashion Director: Honey Kilaso-Adelaja 83

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REFERENCES Bring the blackout: 1: T’von: What Whites Will Never Know (2015) Available at: http://whatwhiteswillneverknow.com/post/112575747932/colorthefuture-tvon-expect-the-greatest/ (Accessed: 4 February 2016) 2: Maame Yaa Ansah: Veal, Aliyah. (2016) ‘50 Shades of Melanin: The #Blackout Movement’, The Odyssey Online, 30 July 2015. Available at: http://theodysseyonline.com/ spelman/50-shades-melanin-blackout-movement/116966 (Accessed: 4 February 2016)

Trends, Trends, Trends: Carvel, N. (2015) ‘10 Trends you Need to Know for Next Summer’, GQ [online]. Available at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/top-mens-clothing-trends-autumn-winter-2016 (Accessed: 2 February 2016).

Carvel, N. (2015) ‘4 Big Summer Trends you Need to Know from LCM’, GQ [online]. Available at: http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/trends-at-london-collections-men-springsummer-2016 (Accessed: 1 February 2016).

Hobbs, J. (2015) ‘Six New Season Style Rules’, Vogue [online]. Available at: http://www. vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2016-spring-summer/new-season-style-rules (Accessed: 4 February 2016).

Vogue (2015), ‘Spring/Summer 2016: What to Know’, Vogue [online]. Available at: http:// www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/trends/2016-spring-summer/spring-summer-2016-showtrends-round-up (Accessed: 1 February 2016).

Vogue (2016) ‘The Spring 2016 Men’s Trend Report’, Vogue [online]. Available at: http:// www.vogue.com/slideshow/13293631/spring-2016-spring-menswear-trends/#58 (Accessed: 1 February 2016).

Warburton, S. (2016) ‘Seven wearable trends from London Collections Men SS16’, Telegraph [online]. Available at: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/fashion-and-style/11677744/ Seven-wearable-trends-from-Fashionbeans (2016) H&M Casual 2016 Style Men’s Lookbook. Available at: http://www.fashionbeans. com/2016/hm-casual-2016-mens-style/ (Accessed: 4 February 2016).

Mannah, J. (2015) Men’s Spring/Summer 2016 Accessory Trends. Available at: http://www. thetrendspotter.net/2015/07/mens-springsummer-2016-accessory-trends.html (Accessed: 2 February 2016).

Mannah, J. (2015) Top 5 Menswear Spring/Summer 2016 Trends to Try Now. Available at: http://www.thetrendspotter.net/2015/07/top-5-menswear-springsummer-2016-trendsto-try-now.html (Accessed: 4 February 2016).

Miss Selfridge (2016), 2016 Style Guide. Available at: http://www.missselfridge.com/en/ msuk/category/2016-style-guide-5131979/home (Accessed: 3 February 2016).

O’Connor, C. (2015) The Key Trends from London Collections: Men SS16. Available at: http://www.fashionbeans.com/2015/key-trends-london-collections-men-ss16/ (Accessed: 2 February 2016).

Refinery29 (2016) 10 Fashion Month Trends You Can Actually Shop Now. Available at: http://www.refinery29.com/fashion-week-trends-to-buy-now#slide-20 (Accessed: 20 December 2016).

Scrivener, E. (2015) London Fashion Week SS16 trend report. Available at: http://www. globalblue.com/destinations/uk/london/london-fashion-week-ss16-trend-report/#slide-1 (Accessed: 19 December 2015).

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