THE FOOD ISSUE Long Beach State University | Vol. LXX, Issue 40 | March 25-29, 2019
2 NEWS
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | CITYD49ER@GMAIL.COM
INSIDE
ON THE COVER
NINER
THE
GRAPHICS BY MIGUEL MARTINEZ
The Daily 49er visits breweries throughout Long Beach page 4
ILLUSTRATION BY CLAUDIA MEHRANBOD Daily 49er
Daily 49er Editorial Office Phone (562) 985-8000
Business Office Phone (562) 985-1740
1250 Bellflower Blvd., LA4-201 Long Beach, CA 90840-4601 Kat Schuster Editor in Chief eicd49er@gmail.com
Samantha Diaz Managing Editor managingd49er@gmail.com Austin Brumblay cityd49er@gmail.com
News Editor
Cambodian doughnut shop owners set themselves apart page 6 & 7
Sports Editor
Kevin Colindres sportsd49er@gmail.com Rachel Barnes artsnlifed49er@gmail.com
Arts & Life Editor
Sabrina Flores opedd49er@gmail.com
Opinions Editor
A new way to sell groceries page 10 & 11
Carlos Villicana spprojd49er@gmail.com
Special Projects Editor Multimedia Managing Editor Advertising Account Executive
Paula Kiley Eddie Infante d49ads@gmail.com
Copy Editor
Editor’s Note
Design Editor Photo Editor
If there’s one love you’re likely to share with most people you meet, it’s food. Food has many roles in people’s lives. For some it’s merely something to consume, for others it’s what pays their bills. The production and distribution of food is as much an art as it, unfortunately, is an industry. Food is a reflection of the culture that inspires it. In this special issue, the Daily 49er staff looks into Long Beach’s diverse food scene and the ways that members of the community are changing how what we eat is produced and distributed — with stories about the significance of doughnut shops in the city’s Cambodian community and the man behind an attempt to launch a cooperative grocery store. This issue will be on stands all week, but more related digital content will be released online throughout the week. The Daily 49er will resume its regular biweekly printing schedule Apr. 8, after spring break. Until then, visit daily49er.com for our coverage of all things LBSU and have a wonderful time away from campus.
Carlos Villicana, Special Projects Editor
James Chow Claudia Mehranbod Ryan Guitare
Social Media Editor
Lizbeth Galeno
Video Editor
Adam Pacheco
Assistant Design Editor
Mia Bradford
Assistant Copy Editor
Sarah Vehrs
Assistant News Editor
Perry Continente
Assistant News Editor
Hannah Getahun
News Assistant
Suzane Jlelati
Deputy Sports Editor
Alex Manfredi
Assistant Sports Editor
Bryan Aparicio
Assistant Sports Editor
Sierra Martinez
Social Media Assistant
Cristal Gomez
Social Media Assistant
Brenna Enos
Design Adviser Content Adviser Advertising and Business Adviser
Gary Metzker Barbara Kingsley-Wilson Jennifer Newton
Editorials: All opinions expressed in the columns, letters and cartoons in this issue are those of the writers or artists. The opinions of the Daily 49er are expressed only in unsigned editorials and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the journalism department or the views of all staff members. All such editorials are written by the editorial board of the Daily 49er. Letters Policy: All letters and email must bear the phone number of the writer and must be no more than 300 words. The Daily 49er reserves the right to edit letters for publication in regard to space.
HOME BAKERY 3
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
Local bakers on the rise Gusto Bread is slowly becoming a staple in Long Beach after opening one year ago. By Kat Schuster
Editor in Chief coastalkatalyst
Condensation fogs the glass door to a wooden, mid-sized town house every Sunday morning on Chestnut Avenue in downtown Long Beach. Inside, a young couple is hurriedly preparing their storefront, one that’s technically their living room. There are only a few places to find Gusto Bread; a small but steadily growing bakery which was created by local residents Arturo Enciso and Ana Salatino just a year ago. “We’re going to be cutting it really close,” Salatino says to Enciso, eyeing the line assembling outside almost 30 minutes before opening. “Hurry, hurry,” she mumbles to herself, helping to spread a cloth on a long table where they will place an assortment of sourdough and wheat loaves, fruit pastries and baskets of baguettes. Each Sunday, they open up their home in a residential neighborhood, which doubles as a quaint village bakery. They open at 10 a.m. and are bustling until close at 2 p.m. — or until they sell out. “Whichever comes first,” Salatino says, handing paper bags of their coveted California Loaf to her mother, Sylvia Goñi, who sometimes helps out on Sundays.
SABRINA FLORES | Daily 49er
Arturo Enciso prepares his storefront for customers, which doubles as his home in downtown Long Beach. Gusto Bread is only open on Sundays and they often sell out before their closing time at 2 p.m. The warmth of their home, the soft indie music playing in the background, the smell of freshly baked sourdough and Enciso’s friendly demeanor has practically become ritualistic. For the regulars, it’s church. “This is the best bread that I’ve eaten anywhere in the U.S.,” says Long Beach resident Tony Brown, with confidence. “Arturo is a super nice guy and all of his ingredients are organic. I’m just praying that they make it.” After they get through their first rush, the couple welcomes guests into their lush garden, alive with leafy kale and flowers. A long, wooden table is set with olive oil and homemade cultured butter for customers and friends to gather and break bread. “It’s a goal of ours to use [the garden space] more,” Enciso says. “When it’s a sunny day we’ll be telling people, ‘Come hang out, maybe bring a bottle of wine and have a picnic in our garden’ ... that’s definitely the kind of community we want to build.” Enciso wakes up at 4 a.m. four days a week to perfect what he calls a recreation of Old World bread. He only uses organic flour and grains and sources them from farms in California. Before they cleared out their own living room to transform it into a bakery, the two sold their bread at pop-up shops. Now, Gusto can be found at local farmers markets and a few select restaurants in town, one of which is Wide Eyes Open Palms. “We were always wanting something that
was made with organic flour,” said Angie Evans, co-owner of WeOp. “There was really no one at the time in Long Beach who was making bread from scratch or using organic ingredients.” In addition to WeOp, Enciso’s bread is now served at James Republic, Roe Seafood, Rose Park Roasters, Rasselbock and Berlin Bistro. “I’m not trying to be this big bread business and be in every shop,” Enciso said. “I can safely say everyone I work with, all the restaurants we’re in, I have a relationship with them. They appreciate my bread and respect it. It’s a blessing to work with those places.” Last Wednesday, Enciso manned the Gusto Bread table at the Marine Stadium Farmer’s Market. Between sales and handshakes with customers and friends, he reminisced. “I’ve been making bread for six years,” Enciso said. “Before, I did various odd jobs … I’m an artist so I’ve always lived that lifestyle where you just work something so you can work on your art, you know? It was mostly music, later clay and now bread.” Gusto Bread stands out among others, not only for its natural grain, levain and near-addicting balance of opposing flavors; but for its stenciled designs, decorated fruitcakes and fougasse, artfully twisted into different shapes. “I woke up at 4 a.m. this morning and it’s five now, but I’m still energized, just seeing friends and meeting people who enjoy our bread,” Enciso said.
Enciso recalled his first attempts at making bread in a rustic old wooden stove on a piece of property that he and Salatino lived in before their current address. But Gusto isn’t the couple’s first venture into the entrepreneurial world. Shortly after the two began dating eight years ago, they shared a love for tea ceremonies and decided to sell tea at the local farmers market — until they found their niche with breadmaking. While Enciso prepares and bakes the bread and is the primary face of the business, Salatino, who’s a freelance graphic designer, created the logo and website, and helps Enciso on the backend. “We’re pretty complementary in our skill sets,” Salatino said. “Together we’re able to find ways to do things. I’m a bit of a problem solver.” Enciso said he hopes to open up a bakery space in the next few years and to provide a minimalistic dining experience that prioritizes bread. “Space is becoming an issue,” Enciso said. “I’m starting to see the limitations … but I love working from home. When I go to work, I just go downstairs.” While business is flourishing and the lines get longer every month, Enciso and Salatino are pacing themselves in terms of growth. “It’s an unusual way that we’re living,” Salatino said. “I just see it as a useful way to grow organically before we take that next step.”
4 BREWERY CRAWL
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
By Rachel Barnes
the place. They offered jerky and chips, but if those are not what you’re looking for you’ll have to find sustenance elsewhere and bring it into the brewery, which many guests did.
Arts & Life Editor rachelsalien
The night-life in Long Beach is far from lackluster, but it’s hard to sift through the sheer amount of bars and breweries to find one that is really worthwhile. When you go out for a beer, the drink itself is not the only thing you should be looking at. Ambiance and the quality of the food are what really rounds out an establishment. So, instead of making you go out and do the work, the Daily 49er did it for you. We visited a few breweries around the city to see which ones would be worth its salt — or hops in this case.
Despite the lackluster beer, we had the most fun at this location.
Ten Mile Brewing Company
Ambitious Ales
Address: 4019 Atlantic Ave. Ambitious Ales is a new brewery that just opened Feb. 16 in the Bixby Knolls neighborhood. Because it is so new, the modern design and layout of the building is what stands out the most. The white walls, floor-to-ceiling windows and outdoor seating area make this place a perfect spring drinking spot. The beer and food menu are limited, with only pizza served and not a huge variety of drinks to try. Most of the drinks on the menu consist of ales and IPAs with little to no stouts, porters or ciders. However, the drink menu changes weekly, so there will always be new flavors. The Tropigose was deliciously fruity and a perfect refreshing spring drink. The German-style ale was conditioned with pineapple and pink guava to give it its full taste with barely a hint of alcohol, a plus for those just getting into beer. Despite the pleasant atmosphere, there aren’t many activities or games to play with friends.
Smog City Brewery at Steelcraft
Address: 3768 Long Beach Boulevard #110. Just a short drive down the
AUSTIN BRUMBLAY | Daily 49er
Smog City Brewing Co. at Steel Craft in Bixby is a satellite tasting “room” where patrons can sit enjoy craft beer and eat other foods that Steel Craft has to offer.
Bring on the beer The Daily 49er staff tours and rates breweries in the Long Beach area. street, inside of recycled shipping containers is Smog City Brewing at SteelCraft. The mixed indoor and outdoor, laid-back setting is jampacked with people, food stalls and the single brewery. Of all the places we visited, this was the only stop on our crawl that offered a wide variety of food such as pizza, waffles, burgers, ramen and shaved ice. How many breweries have you been to where you can grab a bowl of ramen or some grilled cheese waffles? I tried a sour beer, the white peach saison, which was delicious,
and the plate of vegetable gyoza, something I didn’t know I needed before I had it. With 20 taps of different beers and a knowledgeable staff, this was easily my favorite place.
Liberation Brewing Co.
Address: 4019 Atlantic Ave. Liberation Brewing Co. was live-
ly. From the sprawling murals to the pictures of old Long Beach and a game area equipped with Jenga, shuffleboard, board games and darts, we knew this brewery was going to be a blast. We sipped our beers (a “Maddy” pale ale for me) during a heated game of Jenga with the music loud and “Naruto” playing on a projector behind us. Most of the beers we tried were bland and basic and no one stood out with a strong or unique flavor. Luckily, this was overshadowed by the rest of the activities in
Address: 1136 E. Willow St. We ended our journey at the laid back Ten Mile Brewery in Signal Hill. The chill atmosphere and happy staff made it the perfect closer for our group. The rustic, woodsy and old-fashioned style of the location, along with comfy couches in the corners, made us feel right at home in the large, open space. I was so taken by this place that I got two drinks — the “Citrillenial” and the “Hidden Hollow.” The former a light and fruity IPA, the latter dark but surprisingly easy to drink porter. The beer was great, but there wasn’t much else to do other than drink and watch television. The taco stand outside was just closing up as we got there, but it’s presence endeared it that much more to us. I’d say this was a great place to end a night of drinking and they knew how to craft a good beer.
Closing it out
By the end of our tour we were delightfully buzzed and satisfied with each place we visited. I didn’t have a bad beer at any place, and will look to these places first the next time I want a night out. I hope this was helpful for you, and happy drinking Long Beach State. A video recapping the brewery crawl will be posted Tuesday on Daily49er.com.
FOOD REVIEW 5
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
The pho with chicken slices, number 21 on the menu at Pho Long Beach, is served with a side of bean sprouts and mint leaves.
Hidden gems - fried, sizzled and boiled
Long Beach’s great restaurants are not just concentrated in one area. By Carlos Villicana
Special Projects Editor unpaidposter
T
here’s a point in my daily trip down Atlantic Avenue, when passing Anaheim Street, where it seems like the city of Long Beach changes before your eyes. It’s at this intersection that the beach the city is named after feels distant, as a great deal of popular weekend destinations immediately follow the shore. As a resident of the city’s northside, it’s easy to feel like the gems found past Poly High School are ignored by those on campus. I don’t blame anyone for not venturing beyond what’s closest to them. The fast-paced world we live in makes taking a moment to explore the unknown difficult. But just as I have found with the city’s bustling down-
town, a trip to the parts of Long Beach is well worth the visit. A city as diverse as this one is bound to have great variety in its culinary offerings, and this logic carries through on the side outbound of Anaheim Street as much as it does across the well-known establishments nestled between downtown’s high-rises. The following are only a few examples of what the city’s north, west and center have to offer. Apologies in advance, the parking for all of these places is abysmal.
Dave’s Burgers
Address: 3396 Atlantic Ave. A small hut near the 405 freeway, Dave’s Burgers offers a few items for a minimal cost. The cheeseburger with either the beef or turkey patty is most worth a purchase. Like most other places, the burgers here can be ordered with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles and thousand island dressing. Both options are fulfill-
ing without leaving one bloated, making it a satisfying meal for under $5. The fries leave a bit to be desired, as the seasoned salt used on the fries is inconsistent and you aren’t given too many. However, the fries are a newer addition to the establishment’s offerings, as shown by how it appears written on what little space is available on the menu’s top left corner. Skip out on them and just get the burger.
Los Reyes Del Taco Sabroso
Address: 2345 E. Anaheim St. Found in the outskirts of Cambodia Town at the end of a small block of shops that appear abandoned, this small restaurant offers a variety of Mexican cuisine such as chilaquiles, enchiladas, tacos and tortas. Its name translates to “The Kings of the Tasty Taco,” and it could only be more accurate if “and more” were at its end. In my visits to Los Reyes, the best meals are the milanesa torta and the al pastor tacos. The tacos sell for $1.25 each and are large enough to satisfy a small craving or fill an empty stomach, depending on how many you order. Each taco’s meat is chopped so fine that no piece is too large to bite into. You can’t really go wrong with most items on the menu — the enchilada plate is also a favorite of mine — but the milanesa torta is my recommendation because of the variety packed between two pieces of bread. You get the milanesa, which is breaded steak; tomato; avocado and cheese, along with sliced ja-
CARLOS VILLICANA | Daily 49er
lapenos and carrots on the side. This $7.50 meal alone is enough food for one sitting, and the place is only about 10 minutes away from campus when driving, making it a perfect spot for a lunch break.
Pho Long Beach
Address: 511 W Willow St. Though pho is its namesake, the titular dish is not the only offering at this Vietnamese restaurant found in the South Wrigley area of Long Beach. I’ve been told that some of the other meals, the rice plate in particular, are good. But personally, I can only speak for one order on the menu—the chicken broth pho bowl that includes rice noodles, long pieces of chicken, cilantro and onion slices. This single bowl is so good that it’s all I’ve ordered for most of my visits. The chicken is tender and numerous, the broth has a tealike quality that makes it a great drink on its own and the meal is large enough to leave anyone satisfied for about $8. This bowl is the complete antithesis to ramen in all but their potential to be delicious. Pho Long Beach has a decent amount of seating but lacks parking as the restaurant shares space with a few other establishments. As such, I recommend arriving by bus or calling ahead of time to ensure you’re arriving at a good time. Just know that if you choose not to dine in, you’ll miss out on a delicious tapioca dessert that comes free with each meal.
6 CAMBODIAN DOUGHNUTS
CAMBODIAN DOUGHNUTS 7
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
Clockwise from far left. Alan Ek is usually in charge of frosting all of the donuts, while the other baker, Tony Gea, makes and fries the dough. Owner Huey Behuynh (left) and daughter Amy Behuynh (right) acknowledge a customer leaving the store. Pauly Som, 49, is one of the eight employees that runs Simone’s Donuts. Every employee is from either Cambodia or Thailand and came to the United States to work.
Cambodian made, California ‘raised’
ASJIA GARNER AND PAULA KILEY Daily 49er
A batch of second generation Cambodian-Americans find their place in the increasingly competitive Long Beach doughnut scene. By Paula Kiley and James Chow Staff Writers
Since age 12, Melissa Eap spent her time before and after school at her parents’ doughnut shop on East Stearns Street and Palo Verde Avenue. Now 26, Eap specializes in customized doughnuts, creating delectable designs ranging from brightly colored birthday spreads to Star Wars inspired divorce party doughnuts. Eap’s unique creations are an example of ways that traditional Cambodian doughnut shops have tried adapting to the increasing competitiveness of the Long Beach doughnut market. According to Yelp, Long Beach is home to 37 doughnut shops. If you choose one of these shops at random, there’s a good chance the owner is Cambodian.
Much of the concentration of Cambodian doughnut shops in Southern California can be attributed to Ted Ngoy, otherwise known as the “Donut King.” Ngoy opened scores of doughnut shops throughout the mid-1970s and ‘80s, and sponsored visas for hundreds of Cambodian immigrants escaping the Khmer Rouge. More than 140,000 Cambodians came to the United States as refugees after the fall of the Khmer Rouge regime in 1979. In the wake of the homeland devastation plagued by both Pol Pot’s regime and U.S. bombings in the country, Cambodians entered the States and relied on the country’s humanitarian programs for sponsors to help jumpstart their new lives in a foreign nation. Born and raised in Cambodia, Eap’s father, Kong Eap, sought refuge in the United States in 1980. “My dad got sponsored by a family in Michigan through the Red Cross to come to America,” Melissa Eap said. “He
lived in Michigan for a year and a half, but ... he wasn’t having much luck with finding a job and making a living there.” The U.S. Census cites the first wave of Cambodians to Long Beach in the 1950s when Long Beach State enacted a student exchange program between the United States and Cambodia. Decades later, the presence of an already-established Khmer-speaking community enticed Cambodian refugees to enter the city and open up businesses. “[My dad] kept in touch with a friend who came to California and his friend told him, ‘Come to California. They have a lot of jobs and opportunities available here,’” Melissa Eap said. And what’s more American than setting up a doughnut shop? According to Sinara Sagn, a business navigator for the nonprofit social services agency United Cambodian Com-
munity, Cambodians who entered the U.S. in the 1980s set up doughnut shops due to the sweet treat’s easy-to-make process and low cost. “After the Khmer Rouge, a lot of Cambodians moved here and [taught] their friends and family how to sell doughnuts, how to make doughnuts and they began to [open up] stores. That’s how it spread,” Sagn said. Despite the pastry’s popularity among the Cambodian community, the doughnut industry is not very widespread in Southeast Asia. Sagn said there are only a handful of unique doughnut businesses in Phnom Penh, a stark contrast to the blooming amount in Southern California. The market offered refugees with limited English the opportunity to succeed in America. Heang Khauo, 44, owner of Donut Island on the corner of East Wardlow Road and Cherry Avenue, became in-
volved in the doughnut industry through his parents, who had friends in the business. “When we first came here from Cambodia, my parents’ English was limited, [and] so was mine when I was little,” Khaou said. “[But doughnut shops are] one way of not needing to know too much English. People would just come here and point to whatever doughnut they wanted.” The Cambodian entrepreneur has been in a business-savvy environment almost his whole life. After his family was sponsored in September 1981 to enter the country, Khaou’s parents opened up a sewing factory in downtown Los Angeles prior to establishing Donut Den in Torrance, California, just in time for the doughnut renaissance. A 1992 U.S. Census report counted 26 doughnut shops in Long Beach alone at the time, which accounted for the steadily increasing number of Cambodian-owned busi-
nesses in the city. But long gone are the days of the doughnut heyday. Opening shop in a competitive environment with a high concentration of doughnut shops left businesses like Knead Donuts & Tea and Donut Island to tread in choppy waters in their infancy. After opening Knead Donuts & Tea in 2017, the Behuynh family experienced trouble early on with reeling in customers. Her family set up shop in an ever-changing location that once primed Gladstone Donut Shop and then a transitional housing complex. After struggling for its first few months, Knead found its footing after a glowing review from Brian Addison at the Long Beach Post.
see CAMBODIAN DOUGHNUTS, page 8
8 CAMBODIAN DOUGHNUTS CAMBODIAN DOUGHNUTS continued from page 6 and 7
Previously, the Behuynh family owned Khmer restaurant, Siem Reap in Cambodia Town for 26 years before closing it in 2015. Not only was the restaurant a staple in the community, but it also served as a staple in the family’s assimilation to the U.S. “Growing up, I was trying to assimilate between American culture and our Asian culture,” said daughter Amy Behuynh. “There were language barriers at the restaurant, but you just try to work with the scenario … I was born here, but it’s very hard for us, especially for older people to learn a new language and then like assimilate to American culture.” Behuynh is just grateful to be working in her family’s doughnut shop in Long Beach, where she is able to meld her Cambodian and American cultural identities. For her, adding unique ingredients is a reclamation of her Cambodian identity. Departing from the traditional raised and cake doughnuts, Behuynh, alongside her father
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
Huey, infuse an Asian zing in their pastries, most notably a Thai Tea filling in their creme brulee. She’s also trifled with the traditional French cruller by infusing the icing with pandan, a common Southeast Asian flavoring ingredient. “I try to put a little more Asian dishes [to show our] Asian roots for Americans to try too,” Amy Behuynh said. “Long Beach is so chill. They’re willing to try anything new.” For the new Cambodian American-raised doughnut connoisseurs, experimenting with the iconic ring pastry is what sets them apart from chains. Introducing creative items to the menu keeps the community buzzing. It’s what helped secure Knead Donuts & Tea a spot on LA Eater’s “20 Most Delectable Doughnut Shops” list. Despite the ever-changing landscape of the doughnut market in Long Beach, what remains the same among family-owned Cambodian doughnut shops is the value of family. “You know how [it’s like in Asian culture,] we value family, sometimes a bit too much,” Amy Behuynh said. “But [my parents have] sacrificed so much to bring us here, so I try to remember that.”
FREE Gift when you open a Free Checking Account at Southland Credit Union Long Beach!*
*While supplies last. Membership subject to eligibility.
FOOD BANK 9
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
A tasty deposit Hunger has been reduced by 13 percent since 2012, part of that is due to food banks such as the one run by Parkcrest Christian Church.
Foodbank of Southern California
The Foodbank of Southern California delivers donated food goods to hundreds of thousands community members annually.
By Austin Brumblay News Editor austinbrumblay
L
inda Johnson stood waiting in line, 8 a.m., bags empty. It was a cold, early morning in Long Beach. The line was growing and she was hungry. She looked at her plastic watch and smiled. There was only two hours until the food bank opened. “I get here early because this is the only way I can guarantee I will eat,” Johnson said. The food distribution began promptly at 10 a.m. when bags of rice, beans and other non-perishables lined the small pop-up tent. Johnson was guided through the line as volunteers filled her lime green bags until cans reached the brim. “This stuff is good,” she said as she pointed at a can of Campbell’s Soup. “I’ll take a couple more of those.” Parkcrest Christian Church has been offering the Long Beach community food assistance for over three decades. Goods are distributed by church members bimonthly under the direction of hus-
band and wife team Mickey and Karen Byers. “We want to keep the community a thriving circle,” Karen said. “It is our goal to make sure no one goes unfed.” According to the Long Beach Welfare, nearly 20 percent of Long Beach residents rely on food banks for consistent meals, and over half are college students. Long Beach Welfare also stated food banks have reduced hunger among Long Beach residents by 13 percent since 2012. In Long Beach, there are seven nonprofit food bank distribution centers and dozens of churches, pantries and donation trucks throughout the city. Parkcrest Christian receives food donations from members and larger distributors who deliver sizeable quantities of food essentials. The Foodbank of Southern California distribution center is one place that provides for the church. Across town around the time that Johnson has filled her bags, volunteer Antonio Rodriguez has finished unloading his truck for the center. A pallet of Rice Crispy Treats and other snacks are forklifted away and shelved in the city block-sized brick warehouse. The Long Beach based center has been serving Southern California for 41 years and donates to
over 700 charitable agencies in the region. The nonprofit prides itself on its cost effective operation and stated that for every $1 donated, $28 of food are distributed. According to the the Foodbank of Southern California, over 21 million pounds of food are channeled to hundreds of thousands of community members annually. Sixty-eight percent of food recipients are children and 19 percent are seniors. Rodriguez starts his day at 4 a.m., his truck ready to make the rounds of local grocery store donor pickups. Foodbank of Southern California is partnered with supermarket company Ralphs, which provides shelve items that are deemed “unsaleable,” but nonperishable. Items vary depending on the day, he said. But popular items include Department of Agriculture surplus commodities such as instant formula, flour, cornmeal, beans, rice, milk and cheese. “We get all kinds [of] different foods,” Rodriguez said. “But the most important are the fruits and vegetables.” Rodriguez added that he picks up around 500 to 1,000 pounds of food products a day. “We’re fortunate to have so many impactful donors in the area,” he said.
10 GROCERY
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
Damon Lawrence, director of Long Beach Grocery Coop, was inspired to start up his own cooperative after a trip to Oregon. PERRY CONTINENTE Daily 49er
Cuisine for the community Damon Lawrence wants to launch the first cooperative grocery store in Long Beach. By Perry Continente Assistant News Editor perrycontinente
D
amon Lawrence is a busy man. He has his job at the Los Angeles Fire Department, six children, a front yard garden where he grows artichokes and heirloom tomatoes and in what little time is left in the day, he is working to change the way Long Beach eats. Lawrence is working to open Long Beach’s first grocery cooperative business, or a co-op. Co-ops are local businesses owned by several members of the community designed to distribute earnings more evenly. These members invest in and operate the business as a community, democratically deciding things like prices, wages and products sold. Lawrence also plans to use the co-op for philanthropic ends, providing funding for social programs and offering employment opportunities to the homeless. Following the egress of the local Albertsons from Rose Park, the only major market in the community, Lawrence began writing letters to grocery chains hoping for a replacement — but was met with rejection on all fronts. “They sent it back to us and said, ‘your area doesn’t fit our demographic need,’” Lawrence said. Lawrence took it upon himself to fill the gap. He felt the corporations failed the community and brought up the possibility of a grocery co-op in a community meeting in Rose Park.
His first exposure to co-ops was during a trip to Oregon. In a local market, he was asked if he was a “member-owner,” a term he was unfamiliar with. After a conversation with an employee, Lawrence began to see co-ops as an opportunity to ethically compete with big businesses. “The first thing out of everyone’s mouth was, ‘What is that?’” he said. “I had only been in one co-op but I started to do some digging.” His search brought him to Co Opportunity in Santa Monica, where he asked an employee stocking shelves about the store. “In my capitalist mind I was thinking, ‘OK, someone has got to be being exploited here,’” Lawrence said. He was met with a pleasant surprise. The employee had nothing but good things to say about the store, and had even quit his previous job managing a Home Depot to work there. Since that conversation, Lawrence has reached out to the community in an attempt to educate people about co-ops and fuel the discussion to bring one to Long Beach. “This isn’t something new, we have seen that this will work,” he said, citing the viability of co-ops, especially the proliferation of the businesses in states like Vermont. One of the first people to join Lawrence in striving to bring co-ops to Long Beach was Michelle Berns. When Berns’ son developed a cyst on his brain, she was recommended that in addition to medicinal intervention, dietary improvements could help her son, which led her to a local co-op in Eureka, California. “The co-op was the only place that we could get that food,”
Berns said. “It really was a life saver in that way.” The appreciation led Berns to become a member-owner and started her involvement in her local co-op. “Up there the board elections were bigger than the city council elections,” she said, “It really was a hub for the community.” After moving to Long Beach and missing Eureka’s co-op scene, Berns happened upon Lawrence’s Facebook group. “Apparently they had just, just organized,” she said, “I had to get involved.” Lawrence points to larger, more well-known co-ops such as Land o’Lakes butter and ACE Hardware, explaining how they combat the impact that mega-stores like Walmart can have on a community. “Walmart is one of the largest corporations in the United States, now you’ve got Amazon getting into food,” he said. “What we are talking about is very few hands are controlling what we eat.” He mentioned that once large chain stores drive out their local competition, they often raise prices. One not so sweet example Lawrence singled out was the chocolate industry. Companies like Nestle have been implicated in using child slave labor to harvest cacao, according to The Global Slavery Index.
see GROCERY, page 11
GROCERY 11
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
GROCERY continued from page 10
“A lot of these chocolate companies are using African kids’ slave labor to pick the chocolate beans,” Lawrence said. “What your kid is enjoying is at the expense of another child … slave labor in this day and age. It hit me in the gut.” Lawrence explained that abuse of workers is not only foreign, but domestic. This abuse is largely caused by executives taking too large of a cut from profits. “There are so few corporations to work for, and they can demand what they want from the farmer,” he said. “There is no other market out there … we the people are the only ones who can really create an alternative market.” By cooperating with local farmers, Lawrence hopes to provide them with such. “Nobody is going to make a killing owning a piece of stock in the co-op,” he said. “Instead of one person making 10 million dollars, 100 can make 100 thousand.” Lawrence said the freedom of a co-op means he is not beholden to a corporate board and breaking even is acceptable as a large portion of the revenue will be funneled
into philanthropic efforts. “When I see someone who doesn’t have enough to eat I think, ‘Do I want to make a purchase so Jeff Bezos can have his 100th house on the French Riviera, or do I want to help others?’” Lawrence said. Lawrence hopes this philanthropy in conjunction with hiring homeless and formerly homeless people will enrich the community. He also plans to use a percentage of the coop’s profits to fund local programs. “We know these programs work, but when they lose funding everything goes back to how it was,” he said. “This co-op can be a funder, it can keep funding these programs.” Berns also espoused the philanthropic elements of co-ops. “A co-op isn’t just a store that says something, it’s a store that does something,” she said, “We really are in the same playing field, all of us.” The social impact of co-ops is nothing new, Lawrence explained that in the Jim Crow era, many in the black community started co-ops. Lawrence has yet to cement a location for the store, but hopes that it will open in slightly over a year and a half. More information about the Long Beach Grocery Co-op can be found at https:// www.longbeachgrocery.coop.
NOW HIRING Editor In Chief 22 West Magazine The Editor In Chief (EIC) is responsible for the weekly print publication and web production of 22 West Magazine and for the overall integrity of the magazine including editorial content, appearance, coverage, production, scheduling, staff/personnel issues and advertising. Current enrollment in a B.A. or M.A. program in Journalism, Communications, English, or a related discipline preferred. Must have one year of college newspaper or magazine experience or the equivalent; a minimum of one semester experience with 22 West Magazine is preferred. A complete list of requirements, other criteria, and job application is available at www.asicsulb.org/corporate/work
Chief Executive Producer 22 West Video
The Chief Executive Producer (CEP) is responsible for the distribution of 22 West Video's creative content (“shows, segments,etc.”). The CEP is responsible for the overall integrity of the video content produced by 22 West, including editorial content, appearance, coverage, production, scheduling, budget and staff/personnel issues. They are responsible for setting creative and editorial standards, for providing a vision for the station, and for ensuring its continued production. Current enrollment in a B.A. or M.A. program in Film & Electronic Arts, Journalism, Communications or a related discipline preferred. 6 or more units are required and must maintain a cumulative GPA of 2.0. Must have one year of media production experience or the equivalent; a minimum of one year experience with 22 West Video is preferred. A complete list of requirements, other criteria, and job application is available at www.asicsulb.org/corporate/work
General Manager 22 West Radio The General Manager is responsible for leading, planning, and managing the operations of 22 West Radio and coordinates the administrative activities of the station, manages it business functions, ensures fiscal accountability, and supervises student participation. The General Manager is responsible for the planning, development, and execution of operating policies and objectives in accordance with 22 West Media operating policies and procedures, ASI policy, University regulations, and Student Media Board directives. They are responsible for setting journalistic and editorial standards, for providing a vision for the radio station, and for ensuring its continued production. Completion of one year of college and a minimum of one year of related experience and/or training; or equivalent combination of education and experience required. Must be concurrently enrolled at CSULB in six or more undergraduate units (3 or more graduate units) with a cumulative GPA of 2.0 or higher. Experience with on-air and station management responsibilities, including the establishment of a volunteer station support structure. A complete list of requirements, other criteria, and job application is available at www.asicsulb. org/corporate/work
Physics Distinguished Lecture The Department of Physics & Astronomy presents:
How do Quantum Conductors Conduct? (General lecture)
Wednesday March 27, 2019, 10:00AM Hall of Science Room 100 (First Floor)
Dr. Sophie Guéron Laboratoire de Physique des Solides Although electricity may be considered a banal commodity, the way in which electrons carry the current has some wondrous features. In this lecture, I will discuss experiments that reveal how current flows in small conductors, down to the scale of a single atom and how quantum interference experiments can unravel new states of matter in materials we thought were “ordinary”. Sophie Guéron is Directrice de Recherche (senior scientist) in the Mesoscopic Physics Group at the French National Research Center (CNRS) in Orsay, France. She is a recipient of the CNRS bronze medal. For additional details/enquiries, please contact: Dr. Claudia Ojeda-Aristizabal (Claudia.Ojeda-Aristizabal@csulb.edu)
12 MULTIMEDIA PREVIEW
MARCH 25-29, 2019 | DAILY49ER.COM | SPPROJD49ER@GMAIL.COM
Jose Luis Ornelas harvests cilantro at his family farm in Bell Gardens. AUSTIN BRUMBLAY Daily 49er
Farming under the wire A father and son farm under the Southern California Edison power lines is at risk of losing it all. By Paula Kiley, Hannah Getahun and Austin Brumblay Staff Writers
W
here the Los Angeles and San Gabriel rivers meet, under the Edison electrical line that runs alongside the Los Angeles River, swaths of brown one story homes and gray industrial buildings are disrupted by patches of green. These gardens sit on land that cannot be built upon because of the towering wires that block the space
above. As a result, some plots under the line are used for urban farms. The Ornelas farm is one such farm. Edgar Ornelas and his father Jose Luis Ornelas grow, cut and prepare herbs, fruits and vegetables. But unlike most farmers, the backdrop for their operation is the bustling city of Bell Gardens. The two-man operation sells food in a number of surrounding cities by participating in local farmers markets such as the Long Beach Bixby Knolls market on Tuesdays. They also use their produce to sustain their own family. Jose started his farm years ago after mov-
PAULA KILEY | Daily 49er
Edgar Ornelas bags produce to be weighed at the weekly farmer’s market held at Bixby Park.
ing from Jalisco, Mexico, where he had previously been a farmer. After establishing the small plot of land they acquired, Edgar started helping with the business. Edison has begun requiring that some farms in the area grow their produce in pots, which restricts the amount they can cultivate. The father and son worry their operation will get more expensive and they may lose their family farm forever.
Editor’s note: The full version of this story is told through a combination of words, photos and video. Each medium offers action and emotion for this multidimensional story that cannot be conveyed through only one of these methods. “Farming under the wire” premieres Thursday on daily49er.com.