Tuesday, September 17, 2013
Sunday, February 24, 2013
Show Directory Inside!
the Coterie
+ SOLE COMMERCE
w o r t fron
Bonjour Summer (again!)
IT’S SHOW TIME!
Coterie NY BOOTH 1825 CONTEMPORARY SECTION ---------------New York 350 Bleecker St., New York 646.998.3701 Beverly Hills 358 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills 310.288.0025 Europe +353(0) 1 634.50.67 North America 1.888.477.5436
Made in Italy
www.sarahpacini.com
Booth 3322 / 3423 Javits - Level 3
Belts Scarves Apparel www.suziroher.com
C OT E R I E Š Gorski Group Ltd. 2013
Booth #9704 & 9803
514.281.9959 info@GorskiGroup.com www.GorskiGroup.com
GROOVY GIFTABLES
CONCOURSE AREA at HALL 3AB BOOTH #4000 JONATHANADLER.COM
NEW AND NOTABLE… All the chicest new lines to know at Coterie!
the
10 Corso BOOTH: 4230, LEVEL 3 Birds of Paradis by Trovata BOOTH: 4221, LEVEL 3 Brochu Walker BOOTH: 1820, LEVEL 3 Garbe Luxe BOOTH: 4826, LEVEL 3 Pleats Please by Issey Miyake BOOTH: 2220, LEVEL 3 Shakuhachi BOOTH: 4614, LEVEL 3 Suboo BOOTH: 5322, LEVEL 3 X by Gottex BOOTH: 2837, LEVEL 3
A MOMENT WITH... Tracy Reese LEVEL 3, BOOTH: 1613
Tell us about your spring collection! We have an Afro Cuban theme. There’s a lot of energy in the collection. There are beautiful florals, patterns and as always a lot of color. We’ve pumped up the embellishment. You and your models danced during your run through at Fashion Week! These models go from show to show to show. People are pulling at their hair, there’s no smiles, but they love an opportunity to show off their personality. We want the models to have a good time!
Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro
your daily dose TRACY REESE
WHO, WHAT, WEAR?! Bonjour trade
show trendsetters and bienvenue to spring! (Clothing, that is.) This year, navigating the sea of booths has never been easier, thanks to our handy guide. Let’s start downstairs on Level 1 where you’ll be greeted by the shimmer and sparkle of eveningwear next to the café and bridge. ☛ Registration is on the street level (also known as Level 2), while up on Level 3 is all of Readyto-Wear, Jonathan Adler’s peppy, preppy lounge experience, plus the show-stopping shoe selection of SOLE COMMERCE. There’s also TMRW, a notso-brief rundown on future trends! ☛ Finally, for those feelin’ washed out, there’s no better section to visit than denim on Level 4. Whew. Here’s to another glorious Coterie season!☛
MODELS DO EAT! (LIGHT, OF COURSE…) Hey Adriana Lima, what’s in your fridge? • Luna & Larry’s Organic Coconut Bliss dark chocolate bars. Chocolate and coconut together is my guilty pleasure! I usually have a few stocked for when I have cravings. • Chobani greek yogurt—my girls love it, and it’s nutritious. Our favorite is the black cherry flavor. • Blueberries! They’re rich in antioxidants and actually help you burn fat, so you can eat as many as you want and not feel guilty. Sometimes I will throw them in the freezer and eat them as a frozen dessert! • Amazon Water. It’s so important to stay hydrated, especially when you are running around all day. Water is also the key to great skin!
A MOMENT WITH... By George retailers Katy Culmo, owner and buyer, and Kate Sullivan, buyer What are your top brands? Kate: Is this a trick question? There are just too many! Some that do come to mind are Cut 25 and Calvin Rucker. What’s your plan of attack when hitting the floor? Kate: I plan to start at one end and work my way to the other—however long that takes. Katy: Start walking...and let the party begin! How do you stay energized? Kate: Getting a good night’s sleep the night before always helps, but seeing all the new collections is always energizing in and of itself! What are your tradeshow ensembles of choice? Kate: Comfort is key! But New York fashion is a “see-and-be-seen” environment. Sometimes you need to make a few sacrifices for style. Katy: For me it’s all about flats: FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
front row
boots or my Celine slip-on sneakers. Who is the last great designer you discovered at a trade show? Katy: Pas du Calais blew me away. What’s a surefire way for a brand to get your attention? Katy: I like collections that don’t have an “expiration date”. Looks that are classic enough to be timeless, or artisanal enough to not reflect any time period. What are you most looking forward to this fall? Katy: UT longhorn football game weekends at By George bring lots of people, lots of energy, and lots of shopping!
Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Eddie Roche Deputy Editor Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editor Sara Lieberman Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Specialist Mihai Cãlin-Simion Contributing Copy Editors Joseph Mills, Matt Weingarten
President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Trade Publications Director Charles Garone Account Directors Julie Humeas, Hannah Sinclair Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Sales & Marketing Coordinator Sabrina Fares Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor Distribution Supervisor
To advertise call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com
DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Coterie & Sole is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2013. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
STAY CONNECTED ON THE SCENE! For live Coterie coverage, #hashtag, message and update appropriately! facebook.com/ENKCoterie, facebook.com/ENKInternational @ENKCoterie, @ENKshows, #coterie13, #TMRW13 PLUS! If you’re low on battery, head to the charging stations near the 3D retail café, mezzanine, VIP registration and seating area in Crystal Palace, and by the Internet lounge across from 3B entrance.
ON THE COVER: Karmen Pedaru in Michael Kors Spring 2014 Collection. Photographed by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images.
GETTY IMAGES (3); BFANYC.COM; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
SHIRT TALKIN’ with Douglas and Odile Benjamin, designers and co-founders of Raoul
REBECCA MINKOFF IS ONE HOT MEXICANA MAMA! BOOTH: 4610, LEVEL 3
BOOTH: 5608, LEVEL 3
Tell us about the Spring collection! It’s for a strong Latin American woman, spanning the decades of Frida Kahlo to multi-generational women like Bianca Jagger. There’s a lot of texture and embroidery. What’s the first thing you want to do after a show? Go get Mexican food. To eat…? Margaritas! How many will you have? Three. Go for the 4th! Salt or no salt? Salt!
REBECCA MINKOFFyour daily dose
SCENE
Henry & Belle have joined libatious forces with Retail Goose, offering an early 3 p.m. cocktail hour today for all Coterie wanderers and retailers alike. Stop by booth 2027 to get your drink on! ☛
A MOMENT WITH... Lubov Azria BCBG, BOOTH: 5001, LEVEL 3 What did you do this summer? Nothing! That’s the best. Tell us about the Spring collection! Next year it’s going to be 25 years of BCBG, so we went back to our archives and pulled out the pieces that really made a statement. When we looked at the pieces, we realized it’s not just that, it’s the process, which is to deconstruct. That’s what we do as designers. We use that as an idea. We played with the idea of taking something and making it into something else. We heard you had an unusual Fashion Week... We celebrated Rosh Lubov Azria Hashanah at our corporate offices!
SNAP A PIC, PLANT A TREE!
Amour Vert
Eco-chicettes looking to save the planet one tree at a time should head over to Amour Vert (Booth: 5125, Level 3), where a simple photo can help rebuild forests devastated by wildfires in Lake Tahoe, Calif. For every photo snapped and shared at Amour Vert’s photo hautespot, located next to the retail Christoph cafe on Level 3, the brand has partnered with Frehsee American Forest to plant a tree. “We hope to get 5,000 to 10,000 trees planted in these three days,” says Christoph Frehsee, CEO and co-founder of Amour Vert. Their ultimate goal? “One-hundred-thousand trees by 2016, which is about 220 football fields, quite an area!” Finding quality sustainable fabrics proved tough for the “green” brand, so Amour Vert pioneered their own. “We were the first to deliver a completely machine-washable organic cotton herringbone,” says Frehsee. Mother Nature is surely on this year’s Best Dressed List!
How did the idea for Raoul come about? Douglas: I went shirt shopping in London, and after a couple months of wearing and washing them, the collars and the cuffs started fraying. It looked like they were being washed in a dishwasher! Odile: He called a designer and me into his office to start sourcing fabrics. How did you get into designing for women? D: Women began coming into the stores and buying the smallest sizes of shirts Douglas and Odile and altering them to fit. But the alterations just looked horrible, so I said we should probably get into that market! O: One woman even asked me to make a halter shirtdress for her wedding! We realized there was a demand for a clean cut, but corporate brand with a feminine and luxurious feel. What does luxury mean to you? O: For us, luxury is about quality fabrics and an impeccable fit.
DOUBLE ECO ALERT! S’well water bottles have paired up with ENK on a refillable bottle that can be watered up at stations throughout the venue. Bonus! S’well and WaterAid are donating a portion of their proceeds to maintain safe water.
A MOMENT WITH Vicken Arslanian, Founder and President, EuroPerfumes BOOTH: 3715, LEVEL 3 What’s your favorite scent? How important is scent to a I’m a Bergamot guy. Although, I person’s identity? like the current “incense” trend, I always believe that clothes I find myself always going back don’t make a man, but the man to the classic colognes. I’m also makes the clothes. Similarly, a drawn to the new “molecular scent shouldn’t define a person, based” synthetic scents. but it certainly can leave a Least favorite scent? memorable impact. It’s often I’m not into “Gourmand” the first impression of a woman, fragrances. Scents that smell and lasts the longest. like food turn me off. Tell us one thing about perfumes that most people don’t know! Hmmm. One secret is to spray a fragrance on yourself before getting dressed so it radiates as you move and the body heats up. Most people “dab” a fragrance on the pulse points, which is a bit antiquated.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M GETTY IMAGES (4); BFANYC.COM; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
WORLDLY. VERSATILE. SMART. www.indigenous.com Coterie NY — Level 3, Booth 5750
Showing! WHO’S
RACHEL ZOE Rachel Zoe, Founder and Designer , Booth: 2120, Level 3 What’s the ethos behind the brand? Creating clothes that are polished, modern, tailored and glamorous—and which embody a timeless sensibility. What’s your favorite fabric to design with? Are sequins too cliché? I can’t help it…I love them! I also love including leather in every collection. Favorite color? I love jewel tones and safari colors—camels, khakis, greens and burnt sienna. What do you like most about fall? Wool coats, over the knee boots, cashmere everything and layering. Dressing for fall is so much fun— the options are so much more vast. Preferred method of relaxation? Spending time with my husband and son. They always put me at ease! LA sunshine or NYC craziness? Is that a trick question!?
CARRANO
With so many brands to navigate in just three days, we’re here to help! Happy buying!
KAYLEE CHO Kaylee Cho, Creative Director, Booth: 4635, Level 3, TMRW What is the brand about? The universe of my design is a mix between Scandinavian and Asian with a serene voice for wearable sensuality. Favorite fabric? If a fabric has sophisticated texture, even if it’s subtle in color, it gives me imagination to develop. Which retailers are you aiming to attract? The retailers that carry the aesthetic I admire, such as Alchemist, Curve, Satine, etc. If you had to wear one piece of clothing for the rest of your life, what would it be? My oversized Kimono Jacket! I bet every age I go through with this Jacket, I will look stylish. Preferred method of relaxation? I do yoga sometimes. When I reach the stress that I cannot handle, I try to go to Thailand where everything looks beautiful and Zen.
Bia Morsch, Designer, Booth: 7720, Level 3, Sole Tell us the history of the brand, please! It was created in 1989, with the idea to design a shoe of enormous quality and as comfortable as a fashion shoe can be. The label has gotten bigger ever since, and today is one of the five most wanted shoe brands in Brazil. Carrano also sells to over 60 countries around the world! Favorite fabric to design with? I work with leather and prefer to use kid-skin. It’s a softer and lighter leather that can be used in a lot of different styles. Which retailers are you aiming to attract this season? Piperlime, Boomingdale’s, Saks and Barneys. Best part about the trade show circuit? Seeing the clients’ reactions and the styles that they select. Favorite color? Lately, I’m in a pink and yellow mood, but I love to wear black. If you had to wear one accessory for the rest of your life, what would it be? A high-heel pump…or a nice golden watch. Best part about the fall? Everything can be sexier and outrageous.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY THE DESIGNERS
WILDFOX
LEVEL 3, BOOTH #6428 WILDFOX.COM
Booth #2143 amymatto.com
WHO’S Showing
GORSKI
ETIENNE AIGNER Design Studio of Etienne Aigner, Booth: 7805, Level 3, Sole Tell us the history of the brand, please! We’ve been around for over 50 years and it all started with a man, his leather tools and an intention to make something beautiful and useful. How has the brand’s history maintained? Well...there is always “WWED”—What Would Etienne Do—and that means that it has to be beautiful and practical, no excuses! Favorite luxe material to work? A favorite? That’s like asking if you have a favorite child! How massive is your own personal shoe collection? It’s extensive. A sore subject with my cohabitants, so much that it has multiple zip codes! Aside from designing, what other creative outlets do you have? Hunting beautiful oddities on Etsy, eBay or any vintage site, for that matter. I can’t resist a stoop sale either! If you had to wear one pair of shoes for the rest of your life, what would it be? My Italian handmade sandals from Francesco on via Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy. Favorite part about the trade show circuit? Espresso in plastic cups! Favorite part about fall? Those few days when you can wear an open toe and a sweater.
ANDREW MARC Tanya Spivey, Executive Vice President of Design, Booth: 5420, Level 3 Do you have a favorite coat? My very first Andrew Marc leather jacket that was a mixed media leather, wool and fur combo. It’s still my first pick out of the closet, as it has withstood the test of time and never goes out of style. Leather, in general, will never not be trending. Preferred method of relaxation? What’s that?! Just kidding. Dinner and drinks with friends on my rooftop in the Lower East Side. You’re all invited! Call our VP Mktg and PR, Marlene McDade, for directions! Aside from designing, what other creative outlets do you have? I love to dance the night away at Dorian Gray’s in the LES! My husband and I are part-owners so they let me stay after-hours! I also love to travel. What’s next for the brand? We are becoming a full fashion lifestyle brand. We have hired a very talented new men’s and women’s in-house design team that came from the contemporary designer market. In addition, we are very pleased to be working with the award-winning designer Richard Chai. It’s not just about outerwear anymore! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Lauren Gorski, Designer, Booth: 9704/9803, Level 1 Tell us the history of the brand, please! My family has been trendsetters in luxury outerwear for four decades. Being involved in the fast paced, highenergy family business essentially since birth I decided to reinvent and evolve it into a new direction creating the GORSKI Après-Ski fur trim lux jackets collection. What’s your favorite part about the fall? Getting to wear my new GORSKI outerwear piece! Do you have a favorite? Can I name a few?! My GORSKI Après-Ski jackets; a fabulous series of lightweight GORSKI vests made in layered silver fox— this season in emerald green and cross fox. We’re hopefully adding the violet-dyed silver fox soon! How do you relax? There’s too much happening to relax! Stowe is my favorite resort town to ski, play tennis and spa.
SARAH PACINI Naila Jaffer, Artistic Director, Booth: 1825, Level 3 Tell us about the brand, please! We are a unique blend of knitwear, prêt-àporter and accessories made in Italy. How would you sum up the spring collection? Light, in all its essence, sets the tone and energy of the collection, which is enhanced by glimmers of color. There are four color palettes: Noir, Craie and Rouge for passion; Gris, Fumée and Bleu for vibrance; Vert profond, Vert tendre and Violet for depth; Taupe, tinted Crème and Yellow for brilliance. Perforated and textured leather accessories have the power to change and brand the new summer silhouette. The jewelry further accentuates the theme of brilliance and light; and crystals transform the pieces into brilliant alternatives. What have been the best sellers? The Sarah Pacini classics are still the top sellers. We’ve added new features such as contrasting graphics, the tattoos series and, again, the stone-wash effect. Do you have a favorite color? Black. It remains discreet and timeless. Best part about fall? Different fabrics are worn and layered on top of each other: knitwear with leather, leggings with leather boots.
VISIT US AT BOOTH 2120 | INQUIRIES: RACHELZOESALES@LFUSA.COM
LIM_DFR_AUG13_FIN.indd 1
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THE
BRITISH INVASION THE BRITISH FOOTWEAR ASSOCIATION BRINGS SOLE COMMERCE TOP BRANDS AND THE LATEST TRENDS FROM THE U.K.
7704 7704 7510 7730 7510 7510 7704 7616 7344 7608
ASPIGA BEYOND SKIN COCOROSE LONDON LAIDBACK LONDON LONDON SOLE MA BY MARION AYONOTE NORTHERN COBBLER PENELOPE CHILVERS SAVE YOUR SOLE UNITED NUDE
SUPPORTED BY:
Amour Vert is the eco-fashion company that puts fashion first. For every purchase of an Amour Vert t-shirt we will plant a tree in America. Our partner, American ForestsÂŽ, has been a leader in protecting and restoring forests since 1875. This program allows us to directly give back to the environment and to future generations. Visit our photo booth at the Coterie retail cafĂŠ on level 3 and we will plant a tree on your behalf. Our goal: Plant 100,000 trees by 2016. Get involved. To become a stockist visit booth #5125 on level 3 www.amourvert.com
WHO’S Showing INDIGENOUS
HOBO Koren Ray, Co-Founder and Chief Visionary Officer, Booth: 3825, Level 3 Tell us a brief history of the brand please! Twenty-two years ago, my mother, Toni Ray, designed the first Hobo collection on her dining room table. We drove those first funky leather bags to New York in a beat-up old van we rescued from a field and used it on weekends to sell on the road. And now? We are excited to be returning to the road with the launch of our Mobile Hobo, a traveling showroom designed to reflect the interior of our flagship store in downtown Annapolis, Maryland. For a brand like Hobo, hitting the road makes perfect sense. It reflects our free spirit and returns us to our heritage. Where did the name Hobo come from? It was inspired by the individual spirit of those who live by their own rules. It invites you to get out and travel life in style.
MYSTIQUE Yamin Levy, Designer, Booth: 6812, Level 3 What’s your attentiongetting booth tactic this season? It’s all about the bling and color. What’s new for the brand this year? We’ve added a home collection. I’m having fun blinging everything and anything. I just blinged out a mirror, which has the WOW affect! Where did you find inspiration? The south of France. What’s your favorite exotic skin to work with? Python…in all colors. What pairs best with your sandals? A fabulous pair of pedicured feet.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Britta Reynolds, Designer, Booth: 5750, Level 3 Tell us a brief history of the brand, please! Co-founders Scott Leonard and Matt Reynolds believe in the simple idea that when people go to work, they should not have to leave their hearts at home. In our early years, Idigenous was a very small company built on a very big idea: to create clothing that truly honored both people and planet. As a result, Idigenous has become recognized as a pioneer of fair trade and organic fashion. Describe the current collection in three words! Free spirited, worldly and re-imagined. How do you stay green? I’m really into the idea of collaborative consumption as a way to keep products in play. I like to swap out rather than always buy new to prolong the life of a garment. Biggest misconception about being an organic or fair trade
DESIGN HISTORY Design Team of Design History, Booth: 5843, Level 3 What’s the ethos behind the brand? Great fit, forward shapes and sharp price points. Do you have a favorite fabric to design with? For fall, we love the luxury of cashmere. For spring, we work with the softness and drape of our viscose knits. Between those two you can build a whole wardrobe and accessorize with some great shoes or a new handbag. Favorite part about the trade show circuit? Interacting with our buyers and seeing them react to new product. We also love meeting new accounts from all over the world! Which retailers are you aiming to attract? Intermix, Shop Bop, Revolve Clothing, and SINGER22. We’re also aiming to expand our West Coast business! What is the universal sweater every woman should own? A go-to cowl neck. They flatter the neck and face and pair well with statement necklaces. Best part about fall? Getting to wear soft cardigans again!
brand? That you can’t have great style and be eco! There is no need to compromise great design to be green. Green is gorgeous! The Idigenous line is a smart and versatile choice for the fashionista who always wants to look her best, and a worldly choice for the passionista who cares about the social and environmental impact of the purchases she makes. How are your designs impacting the fashion community? I think that the modern woman today realizes that having more doesn’t equate to higher heights of happiness. She is looking to re-imagine her needs, and through design we are trying to outfit her new way of thinking. One season wear has become so passé. Who would the attendees be at your dream dinner party? Right now Judy Wicks is high up there on my invite list. She started White Dog Café and pioneered the go-local movement. The Dalai Lama, Steven Colbert, Meryl Streep, Abigail Adams, since I just watched the John Adams HBO series with my 12-year-old and also David Bromstad.
BOOT H 5204 nicolemiller.com
7forallmankind.com
February 17-20, 2014
LAS VEGAS
Model: Susannah Liguori/IMG
www.magiconline.com
See What The World Will Be Wearing
AM & FRETON SHABBIES AMSTERD Hoppel van Nifterick, Art Director, Booth: 7621, Level 3, Sole Tell us the history of the brand, please! Fred de la Bretonière started designing and producing shoe and bag collections in 1970 in Amsterdam after first making bracelets and belts. After finishing The Art Academy in The Hague, he started his own leather workshop in the centre of Amsterdam to develop and build up three different fashion shoe lines: ‘Fred de la Bretonière’ (fine lady shoes, casual with a classic twist), ‘Shabbies Amsterdam’ (outdoor experience,
cool and nonchalant) and ‘Fretons’ (sneaker line, sporty and casual). What are your goals for the trade shows this season? Getting the US market excited for Shabbies Amsterdam and Fretons! Favorite part of trade show circuit? Being among other shoe designers. You really feel the competition. I feel like an athlete! Favorite color? If I have to mention one, it’s, of course, the ‘natural’ color since it’s the basic of all colors in leather.
LAILA JAYDE
7 FOR ALL MANKIND Jennifer Garcia, Women’s Denim Designer, Booth: 109, Level 4 Tell us the history of the brand, please! 7 For All Mankind was founded in 2000. The Los Angeles-based premium denim brand quickly earned critical acclaim due to its innovations in fit, fabric and finish. It now offers denim, sportswear and accessories collections for men, women and kids. Favorite part about the trade show circuit? Its a great opportunity for us to meet and mingle with industry people, and really obtain honest feedback. Boyfriend jeans: Yay or nay? Absolute yay! It’s such a versatile piece of denim that you can wear day to night. They’re incredibly comfortable paired with a simple tank and sandals or flats, depending on the season, or you can add a great pointed pump a sleek silk top with a great statement jacket. The options are endless. Every girl needs a boyfriend jean in her closet. When do you think the lowslung look will return? Hopefully never... 7FAM is all about that great fit! Aside from designing clothes, what other creative outlets do you have? I love interior design. It’s a great way to channel my creativity and get inspiration for my designs. Preferred method of relaxation? Weekend getaways to Palm Springs or Joshua Tree. I instantly unwind, relax and enjoy myself. I love to be active as well, so I’ve been doing a lot of running and hiking and yoga classes.
Karen Okada, Designer, Booth: 6140, Level 3 Who’s the typical Laila Jayde customer? A contemporary customer that looks for easy-to-wear garments and appreciates a good value. Do you have a trade show dress code? Comfortable, with great shoes. Excited about any specific trends this season? Our bright modern stripes on tops, dresses and skirts. Let’s talk basics. What can’t you live without? I love my Helmut Lang graphite silk tank. Which designer do you admire most? Yves Saint Laurent.
STREETS AHEAD David Sack, Co-Creative Director, Booth: 6810, Level 3 Tell us the history of the brand, please! Streets Ahead was born in Santa Monica in 1982. We are still designing and manufacturing our high-end accessories locally 31 years later! What does the name mean? Streets Ahead comes from the South African expression “Streets ahead of the rest.” Favorite part about the trade show circuit? Meeting up with friends and eating out in New York City. Are belts a useful tool or a way of life? Not only are belts a work of art that make a simple outfit look incredible, but they can be used to tow a car, strap your bike on the roof racks or simply to walk the dog.
SPRING 2014 COLLECTION
JAVITS CENTER - LEVEL 1 - HALL 1E
BOOTH # 9405
Booth: 2230, level 3
Tell us about Yoana Baraschi Blue! I started it as a cocktail-directed collection and had an overwhelming response. The Neiman Marcus eveningwear division picked it up immediately, saying that it was new and fresh and they needed that kind of spirit. And your collaboration with Conscious Commerce? Conscious Commerce is an organization started by Olivia Wilde and Barbara Burchfield. Olivia started it because she firmly believes that you make decisions that influence the world simply by purchasing things. We decided to do something together, and seeing that Anthropologie has been an amazing retail partner over the past nine years, I pitched them the idea. They purchased a couple thousand dresses and I’m giving 100 percent of my own profits to Olivia’s organization. Wow! That’s generous. And Anthropologie is matching my donation to New Light, an organization started by this woman in Calcutta who has dedicated her life to taking young women out of the red light district and re-educating them, putting them through school and offering their kids medical assistance. I think it’s important to give meaning to a pretty thing and it feels good to offer this to the consumer. What’s it like working with Olivia? Oh, she’s amazing. She is a highly intelligent, articulate and very motivated person. She’s just a pleasure to be with because she’s very normal and down to earth. You’ve introduced so many prints over the years. How do you decide what’s in and out? I am totally unfaithful when it comes to prints. We work with design studios across the world who do original art and we have an incredibly talented in-house print designer. But each season it’s clear to me and my team if FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
LUXE be a lady From embroidery in Paris to shoes in Milan, Yoana Baraschi is certainly welltraveled when it comes to fashion. After a decade of designing an eponomyous collection that reflects all that globetrotting, it’s no wonder the Romanian-born designer finds comfort at home in the country making jam. (In fabulous footwear, of course.) BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO
something is a Yoana print or not. There has to be a certain language or sexiness or tongue-in-cheek element, regardless of what we’re doing that particular season. Speaking of seasons, any new silhouettes that you’re excited about for spring? We’ve always been known for very fitted-to-the body dresses that we do in a million interpretations. But this spring, I returned to the volume of the frock dress to accentuate the bottom through big, bias-cut skirts, skater skirts, pleats or even organza underlay.
Are you more of a dress girl or a pants girl? In the summer I wear pencil skirts and tank tops, and in the winter I wear boots and tight pants. If I have just a tank top and a slim garment on, I can try on the clothes on top of it and I don’t need to strip. When the patternmakers pin it, they won’t pin the clothing I’m wearing underneath. I have about 50 tank tops from Topshop that are disposable for fittings. You’re the fit model for the brand? Just at the creative stage. Do you attend the trade shows? Every single Coterie since we started the business I have been there! I want to know my customers and I want them to know me. What’s your favorite part about attending? I like counting the orders at the end of the day! And then what? I go to my country house in Sullivan County. It’s called the “Wild West.” Zane Grey used to write there! What do you do when you’re out there? My jam enterprise takes over! Recently I went to an orchard and bought a barrel of peaches for $23 dollars then I got the cans and the sugar. I don’t use recipes, so each batch has a different flavor. How country chic! Can you remember the last pair of shoes you bought? These amazing Aquazzura ankle boots—and this is the third color I’ve bought them in. They must be comfortable! They are incredibly comfortable. I did buy two other pairs of shoes from Free Lance in Paris, too. We’re sensing a shoe obsession… A little bit!
SHOP AROUND THE CLOCK!
Whether you want to go big or go boutique, there’s no shortage of superb retailers scouring Coterie for the next bestsellers destined to fly off shelves. A trio of covetable retailers spilled their tricks for working the trade show circuit. Savvy vendors, take note!
SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
BECKLEY BOUTIQUE
Melissa Akkaway, designer and owner, BeckleyBoutique.com What did you do prior to opening Beckley? I spent a few years in Los Angeles in the restaurant business opening Social Hollywood alongside Jeffrey Chodorow. I always knew I would end up in fashion, as my great grandfather opened one of the first fine clothing shops on the Vegas strip in the Twenties. Retail is in my blood! How many years have you been perusing the tradeshow floors? Six years. Top brands, please! I love, and personally live in, Phillip Lim, Helmut Lang, ALC, Opening Ceremony, CUT 25 and Citizens Of Humanity. Who’s the most recent designer you discovered at a trade show? American Retro! It’s a brand I love from Paris.
What’s your plan of attack when arriving at a show? I very methodically locate the brands that I need to see via the show’s map, and once that’s complete, I love to explore new brands and see what’s on tap with emerging designers. How do you stay energized all day? I try to go for a run in the morning. I have a good breakfast and, of course, I drink a ton of coffee and water to keep me going. Do you have a go-to tradeshow uniform? An Alexander Wang tee, my Beckley by Melissa navy leather jacket and Citizens of Humanity Rocket Denim. Any trends you’re on the lookout for this season? I love to find exciting prints and graphic pieces. Where can we catch you postshow? Soho House’s rooftop bar, if the weather permits. What do you love about autumn? Meeting new clients and styling them in our boots, chunky knits, and highwaisted denim.
Denise V. Magid, VP DMM of Contemporary Sportswear, Saks.com Background please! I ‘ve been in the contemporary market for the last eight years. Prior to taking on my current role, I was a senior buyer for Advanced Contemporary. Before that I was a dress buyer at Saks, and prior to that I was in the dress market at Lord & Taylor. Which Saks stores do you shop for? All 41 locations in the U.S.! How long have you been perusing the tradeshow floors? For more than a decade! What’s your plan of attack when arriving at a show? We go with a list of the vendors we absolutely want to cover and map out booth numbers so we can be super-efficient. Inevitably, as we roam the aisles we discover new brands and unexpected trends and our schedules go out the window. How do you stay energized all day? It used to be lots of coffee, but now my team and I are on a juice kick. Joe Dahan of Joe’s Jeans is always well-stocked, so we visit him often. Who’s the most recent designer you discovered at a trade show? For us, it’s less about finding new brands and more about identifying key fashion items and trends. Are you anticipating anything particular this season? I have a feeling we’ll be seeing a lot of jumpsuits and crop tops. Though, my team and I aren’t sure who over 25 is willing to bare their midriff nowadays. Who do you look forward to seeing at the shows? People like Nicola Guarna, of Robert Rodriguez. I make a point of seeing him because he brightens everyone’s day. It’s also fun to see my dress vendors: That market is so much fun and full of characters. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
NATIONAL JEAN COMPANY Steve Simon, owner , DenimHabit.com
How many years have you been perusing the tradeshow floors? Ten years. What’s your plan of attack when arriving at a show? I try to find out which trends and styles will be in for the coming season, as well as looking at color palettes and fabrics. How do you stay energized all day? We try to stay focused on one or two specific categories each day. Do you have a go-to tradeshow uniform? Jeans and a T shirt. Speaking of jeans! What are your favorite washes and fits? For women, J Brand leather leggings. For men, I like a straight leg with a dark wash. G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 2 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ; ALL OTHERS COURTESY
For every Sole a Soul Headquarters: Estral bv 9400 Hierba Road Irmgard Quint Professor Asserweg 20a Agua Dulce, CA 91390 USA SALES MANAGER USA 5144 NC Waalwijk The Netherlands T: +1 661 268 0235 www.fretons.com T: +31(0)416 322 556 E: irmgard@fretons.com www.shabbiesamsterdam.com F: +31(0)416 322 590 E: irmgard@shabbiesamsterdam.com www.bretoniere.nl E: info@bretoniere.nl www.bretoniere.nl Dutch Debutant Fred de la Bretonière: Shabbies Amsterdam and FRETONS. SOLE COMMERCE, Javits Centre NYC, Level 3 Booth # 7621.
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Getting
Like Bendet
How does Alice + Olivia’s Stacey Bendet get ready for Coterie? Impromptu yoga sessions in her office, bien sûr! The Daily visited her downtown headquarters to see how this powerhouse designer gets her body all Bendet into shape. Namaste! BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHED BY GIORGIO NIRO How often do you do yoga in a miniskirt? I do yoga six days a week, but one or two days a week around this time of the year I need to stretch in the office! How long have you been a yogi? Since college. But in 2004, I met [yoga instructor] Eddie Stern through Moby. They were best friends and punk rockers together in the Eighties. Moby became a rock star and Eddie became a yoga guru. I told him, “I do a little yoga,” and he told me to come to his 6:30 a.m. class the next day. I don’t think he thought I would ever show up. But I went and I went every day after that. What kind of yoga do you practice? I do Ashtanga, which is a more rigid practice because you learn different series and do the same poses every day. It’s not like a lead class, where the instructor says, “Everyone do the downward dog.” Everyone does their own practice. Does it calm you? With Ashtanga, it’s about focusing on your practice, your poses, and your breathing, and the calmness is supposed to come. It truly helps keep me in balance. Especially leading up to your show… It’s my least favorite week of the year! Why? I’m in a state of focusing on the collection, the bodies, what the fabric prices are, and all this stuff, and also styling the show. It uses the left and right side of the brain at the same time and it’s one big headache. And the whole world is on vacation and you’re in this intense mind-set. I really celebrate Labor Day because it’s labor day. Do you drink more at this time of year? Drinking makes things worse! It makes you tired and cranky, and you can’t focus. Tell us about the Spring collection. We continued the feel of street style, but in a more bohemian, romantic way. I feel like we’re having this moment where day dressing is extending into night so I wanted things that were casual and romantic at the same time. I went on this trip to Turkey and it was really inspiring both in terms of color and fabric, as well as this juxtaposition of vintage and new. And you’re apartment hunting at the same time? We’ve been renting a townhouse for a year and half and we’re not big fans of six floors. We’re always like, “Where is Scarlet? Where is Eloise?” and then we’re running down the stairs. We’re moving to TriBeCa into a loft space. How’d you like the New York Post story a few weeks ago about you checking out a $23 million penthouse? It was so obnoxious and it was actually very incorrect. I kind of poked my head into the building. I saw the ground floor and wanted to see the space because I’m always looking for cool architecture for events. I didn’t even see the penthouse. It was even funnier because the story went online and blogs were saying it was Michael Eisner’s wife FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
that was looking. So I was like, “My husband is not 70 years old!” It also said that I live in Los Angeles! I was like, “Oh, by the way, I have 300 people in New York City that work for me in an office that I am at most of my life.” We still like Page Six… Me too! Sometimes you need a distraction when you don’t want to think about work or anything spiritual or important in the world. How else did you summer? We were in Malibu most of July. I went back and forth and the girls stayed out there. It was kind of great because I could work Monday through Thursday and go be with them Thursday to Sunday. It’s really beautiful and peaceful out there. And for me, driving five hours to go to Montauk, I’d rather fly five hours and be in Malibu. Any fab neighbors? Malibu is all fabulous. I do yoga with a fun little crowd, like Mike Diamond from the Beastie Boys and Tamra Davis. They have a little yoga shell at their house and I practice there. My friends Susie and Rene Lopez are always out there. Rachel Zoe’s son and Scarlet swim together. It’s Malibu—everyone is someone everywhere you walk. But at the same time, I feel a real sense of anonymity while I’m there because that’s not really my world. Will we see an Alice + Olivia perfume anytime soon? We’ve been talking about it. There needs to be a perfume concept for the more contemporary woman that really doesn’t wear strong perfume. I don’t feel my contemporaries wear perfume the way our mothers did. It’s a different kind of era, so I want to do something that I feel is appropriate to the brand and to our consumers. But it has to be the right time. Maybe in a year or two. What are you obsessed with these days? Over-the-knee boots, plaid skirts, and magic. What kind of magic? I’m not sure. We’re having a magic dinner party on Thursday, so every guest has to do tricks. What’s your trick? I think I’m going to do something about love and kindness. That’s my other obsession right now, love and kindness. We are starting this project called “The Love and Kindness Project.” We’re installing these trees and then we’re putting all sorts of cool things on the trees, like little messages in a bottle and vintage books, and people can come and take one and replace it with another message. You’re a pretty positive person! Most of the time! I’m also very honest. I have “truthfulness” tattooed on my wrist. Do people always know where they stand with you? Yes. I’m not fake. If I’m happy with something then I’m really happy and encouraging. But if something is bad, I won’t sugarcoat. If I’m not honest with my staff and my team, I’m not being very honest with myself.
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When’s the last time you ate corn? In Malibu, at a barbecue. Do you know what I love? Cornfields, like in the Hamptons. They are so beautiful. What flower grosses you out? A wispy willow. What’s in your fridge? A salad from One Lucky Duck. That’s my usual salad—the raw food salad. What’s your monthly dry cleaning bill? Don’t get me in trouble with my parents! When was the last time you were at the post office to buy stamps? I honestly can’t remember. I also can’t remember the last time I wrote a check. INSETS: FIRSTVIEW
It’s
Miller TiMe Booth: 5204, level 3
As the doyenne of fashion, Nicole Miller has been faithfully outfitting women in decadent cocktail dresses for 27 years, and this ginger-haired designer shows no sign of slowing down. So buckle up, hold on and enjoy the joy ride! BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What is the difference between your two lines? Artelier is more contemporary; there are some dresses included in it, but they’re sportswear. The Nicole Miller Collection is more of a casual look, featuring separates and dresses. Was there a particular reason you felt compelled to spin off this line? I was getting typecast in the dress department, so I realized I needed to create another label to get into sportswear. It’s much edgier and appeals to the younger customer. Although, I feel like customers can be any age these days. Explain please! I just think no one wants to dress to look old. Might as well dress young! That’s one thing I always say about French women, that they always dress young. You’ll see these older women, still going topless on the beach and wearing Azzedine Alaïa. And they can always pull it off. Speaking of the French, your new collection was inspired by the gardens in Versailles. Have you been there recently? Not recently, but I have been and I have a photography book about Versailles. There’s also a big show at the Mary Boone Gallery now featuring a picture that Robert Polidori took of the renovation of Versailles. It was so coincidental, I couldn’t believe it. Have you designed anything other than clothes or accessories? Once we made an airplane for Harrah’s Casino, which was really fun. We’ve also done a Ferrari and a Harley-Davidson. Give us some dish on your Instagram account. Is it really you posting? I do my own Instagram! I tend to have the most success with posting pictures of shoes or accessories, as well as landscapes. Plus, a New York City skyline always gets a lot of hits. Sometimes I put together FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
little scenarios with a vintage piece from our archives, that go all the way back to the Eighties, with a more recent piece of mine. Let’s talk prints. How are yours made? It’s impossible to draw prints anymore, and everything is done digitally and photographically. So sometimes we use images I’ve taken. It’s become so elaborate now with layers upon layers and expositions of things, it’s certainly not like the old days when you’d take out a pencil and draw something. Maybe we’ll get back to that one of these days. What’s your prints preference? I do wear a lot of solids because it’s easier, but if I’m going to an event, I actually prefer to wear a print. It makes more of a statement. You really can’t wear prints more than once though, especially the ones from the European designers. You show up at a party with your $4,000 dress, but you’d have to leave the country to wear it again. I can wear it once in Paris, once in New York, and that’s it! What are you looking forward to this fall? Well, we’ve signed up with a new shoe licensee and have this whole new collection. Oh, tell us more! They’re built around the belief that platforms are never going away. I don’t like any shoes that aren’t comfortable, so that will be an important thing. Comfortable platforms? You’re sure of it? I’m wearing them now! Although I’m still not as tall as a model in these. What did you do this summer? I went to Italy and Saint-Tropez in June, just for a vacation. Any other travel plans for the future? We’re doing a show in Columbia, where we will be showing our Spring collection.
Booth nr: 10008 Level 1, Hall 1E
www.ewaiwalla.se
Visit us at Coterie, Booth 6430
First things first! Why is Sonia by Sonia Rykiel relaunching? We wanted to embed the brand in other significant places beyond Paris. What kind of gal wears the diffusion label? The Sonia by Sonia Rykiel girl is a contemporary French girl who goes out, is excited by life, and is intensely focused on the now. She’s into street style. In the latest collection, the look gets a bit more androgynous. Sounds very different from your grandmother’s original namesake line! What’s new for the hip offshoot line? It has a refreshed flagship in Paris, a new logo, and a new website. Sounds digitally savvy! So what is the SBSR girl’s favorite form of social media? She does it all! But to her, Instagram is the best. Where can New Yorkers snag the collection? Kirna Zabete and Shopbop.com. If this new girl was hanging out in New York on any given Saturday, what would she be doing? Booth: 1512, level 3 She would definitely go to the MoMA, the Brooklyn Flea, and Landmark Sunshine Cinema. She would be going from Brooklyn to Harlem looking for the newest exhibition; she’d go to galleries in Chelsea and shop at Kirna Zabete. She’s a girl who likes a bit As the U.S. PR Director for Sonia Rykiel and Sonia by of everything. Oh, and she’d go to Ladurée for macarons! Sonia Rykiel, Lola Rykiel epitomizes the label founded If she were in Paris, would she by her brilliant grand-mère. With a big relaunch on the choose Left Bank or Right Bank? docket and a stylish family legacy to uphold, how’s the Left Bank, but there’s so much going on over on the Right Bank— New York-based chicster keeping her Parisian cool? it’s really cosmopolitan, cool, and The full scoop, right this way! BY DENA SILVER arty. She would be traveling to both banks with a big sense of freedom. understand the demographic, and I love Tell us about the silhouettes and the brand. It’s really wonderful to bring this the color palettes for the Spring season. beautiful French universe to Americans. I It’s very fresh, graphic, and colorful. The fabrics think they’re really receptive to it. highlight the body, but they aren’t tight or When you’re in New York, do you frequent constraining. It’s a new sense of sensuality. The French restos for a dose of home? colors are very intense and there are a lot of stripes, baby cats, heart prints, and pastel colors. There are a couple of French places in New York, but I love American culture! That’s why It is strong, but shows softness. I came here. I love going to very American How long have you been involved in the places that you would probably think are so company in the U.S.? uncool, like speakeasies and diners. Those It’s been three years. I’ve been involved a lot are the things that make me dream about of my life, obviously, because I grew up in this world and saw the whole evolution. I think I really America. I go back to Paris enough so thatI
Oooh Lola!
can enjoy New York for what it is. There’s such diversity in New York...it would be such a shame to just go to the French places! What are your Parisian haunts? I always go to The Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in the 14th arrondissement. They usually have amazing artists; it’s kind of like a small Georges Pompidou. I learned about a lot of artists for the first time there, because it was close to where I lived as a little girl. I also go to the Musée d’Orsay and The Centre Pompidou because they always have interesting exhibitions. And beyond the museum scene? I always go to my hairdresser, Delphine Courteille, who’s on the Right Bank. She is a longtime friend and she does my mom’s hair, my grandmother’s hair, and my hair. She used to do photoshoots, but she opened her own salon, Studio 34. I like to go to La Closerie des Lilas, a very nice restaurant owned by Café de Flore. Also, I love going to le Jardin du Luxembourg to relax and walk around. Besides your Paris jaunts, your father, Simon Burstein, is based in London as the CEO of Browns. You must do a lot of traveling! How many stamps do you have in your passport? I have so many, you have no idea! I’m always afraid of losing it. I have no more space! Your grandmother rose to fame thanks to her knits! What’s your favorite? I really love the new sweaters for Fall/Winter, designed by our new artistic director, Geraldo da Conceiçao. He did a beautiful interpretation. So will Sonia by Sonia Rykiel get a Paris runway slot of its own? It will be part of what’s going to happen in the future...
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M P O RT RA I T: B E T H G A R RA B RA N T; LOOKBOOK: COURTESY
Booth 9616
Tel: 954.578.5687 Fax: 954.578.4431 iftheplanet@aol.com www.planetclothingonline.com
That’s the spirit! So, how familiar are you with the Coterie scene? We’ve been doing Coterie since Coterie started! How did you end up as a Coterie pioneer of sorts? Someone told me that a new show was starting and that I needed to be a part of it. He told me it was going to change trade shows. Once I heard that, I jumped on it immediately. We were one of the original exhibitors. How long ago was that? I’m pretty bad with numbers; let’s just say it was a long time ago! How has Coterie changed? It’s gotten bigger and bigger, but the most amazing thing about it is that no matter how big it’s Booth: 2810, level 3 gotten, they’ve kept to their core concept of “fashion first.” That’s why I love showing there. I find Coterie to be so relevant. Your designs are quite the statement pieces! What’s your take on delicate jewelry? Erickson Beamon has collaborated with the biggest names in the fashion biz—think Givenchy, Donna I collaborated with Donna Karan Karan, and Zac Posen—but Karen Beamon, co-founder of the bauble brand, hasn’t forgotten about her at one point, and we wanted to make pieces so intimate and perDetroit roots. Returning to Coterie for her 27th year, this tiny designer’s joaillerie continues to pack a sonal you’d never take them off. big punch! We called it Sleeping Jewelry. BY DENA SILVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO The concept was that you’d What are you showing at Coterie, Karen? sleep in jewelry and never take it off. It was a huge fad in the Nineties. I loved We’ll be showing several new groups. Urban Jungle is a flower story with making little things, but I don’t like to be limited by size and structure. animal prints. Cosmic Code is our collaboration with Anna Sui: it’s a trip I’m really tiny; I’m only five feet tall. So I don’t want to be limited in my around the world, with Masai and Burmese elements. Lastly, Fashion designs. I think big; I married the tallest guy I could find! My husband is Tribe is an ethnic-inspired group, for which we bought the beads from six foot five. this guy, Mohammed, who supports his whole village in Africa. Do you plan your outfits around your jewelry or vice versa? Where is he located exactly? Neither! I don’t plan out that stuff. I’m an Aquarius, so any kind of commitI have no idea! I have his beeper number, I beep him, and he brings beads. ment scares me. Even committing to something the night before is too much Wild! Going back a bit, what was the first jewelry piece you designed? planning ahead. Our first pieces were crystals strung onto suede. We called it Erickson How important is family to your business? Beamon Crystal To Wear. That was officially my first line. It’s all family! My daughter Monique Erickson is my brand manager and muse. Did you have any formal training as a jewelry designer? My other daughter, Mandie Erickson, runs Seventh House PR. And my husI studied at this crazy school, the College for Creative Studies in Michigan, band Eric Erickson works with me on Erickson Beamon also. and I majored in oil painting. The only class that I really didn’t excel in in was Any other collaboration as of late? my jewelry class. I got A’s in everything except jewelry making. Isn’t that funny? We teamed up with Aerin Lauder last year, and the latest collection has already Yes! Why do you think that was? shipped. We had access to all of Estée Lauder’s jewelry...and that lady knew how I saw things differently than other people. I was never normal. to dress! There’s this one necklace that Aerin really wanted us to find inspiration Did your Detroit upbringing have an influence on your designs? in. So we had this huge, 24-karat gold necklace that was probably worth One hundred percent! Detroit was the epicenter of rock ‘n’ roll. $300,000, traveling back and forth in taxis with an intern! What do you think about it now? When can we expect to see round two of your ready-to-wear line? Well, things haven’t been going so great there, have they? Hopefully the Hopefully, if we move in time, we’ll be presenting another ready-to-wear city is going to crumble...and then come back to life. collection in February of this year. We got hit really badly by hurricane Sandy. Like a phoenix? My whole office was under eight feet of water, and we lost everything: the Exactly. Maybe the city had to get that bad for people to get it together. I sewing machines, the patterns, the fabrics. In December we’ll be taking an believe that Detroit will rise again. additional 4,000 square feet, and we’ll restore my workroom. We’re resilient.
Romancing the StoneS
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most of the models don’t look at the board. Are you still in touch with Naomi? We had lunch this summer and we text a lot. Do you miss the early days? Yeah. Ignorance is bliss and you don’t really know what you’re getting yourself into. It wasn’t so bottom line back then. It’s very different now! There was more forgiveness. I feel bad for the designers starting out now. It’s grueling. You need big investment bankers now. I started my business in my apartment.
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Do you ever attend any other shows during Fashion Week? Sometimes. If somebody comes into my office and says I should look at so and so, I’ll look at it. I always like to see what Marc Jacobs is doing, because that’s always so exciting and I can’t wait to go shopping! I’m more excited about the European designers, though. What about the new generation? It’s going to be harder and harder for them to do well unless they get substantial financial backing and develop a brand identity. In this day and age, so much of it is bottom line and numbers. It’s a little
SPOT
Who knew Anna Sui was obsessed with Serendipity? We sipped a frozen hot chocolate with the fashion icon and talked Meisel, Naomi, and living la vie bohème. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO How long have you been coming to Serendipity? Since I was at Parsons! Forever! Steven Meisel and I would come to get hot chocolate. You and Steven went to school together. Did you know there was something special about him? Oh, yeah. He was so beautiful. He came walking into my drawing class and I was like, “Who is that?” He asked me to the lunchroom to come sit with him and I was like, “Are you kidding?” What do you think of his work and influence today? He’s a genius. When you look at his body of work, it’s mind-blowing. He outdoes himself every time—the discoveries he’s made with models and the careers he’s made. He’s a force. You also have a long history with one of the founding partners of Serendipity, Mr. Bruce… I was scared of him. You can imagine how dashing he was with his black hair and moustache. As I got older, we’ve gotten to be friendly and go out to eat together. What do you normally get here? The young chicken sandwich with Irish soda bread. Your first show had Naomi Campbell in it. Do tell! She’s probably walked in more shows for me than any other model. She and Linda Evangelista helped me get all the other models and they would wear my dresses. It got to the point where I heard Karl [Lagerfeld] was complaining, “Who is this Anna?” That gave me the confidence that maybe I could do something. How about the new crop of models? When I started, it was the height of the supermodel. There was a reason they were supermodels. When they put on your clothes, it was magic. They then would say, “Why is Naomi in front of me? I don’t want to go out after her. I should go in front of her!” They’d look on the board and count how many looks the other models were wearing. They’d beg for another outfit. It was so nerve-wracking. Now FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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You launched your cosmetics line in 1999. Was that scary at the time? It was a natural progression for me. They wanted my cosmetics to look like accessories, not just a beauty product. I loved that, because I’m obsessive about packaging. Tell us about your new perfume. It’s called La Vie de Bohème and it’s our 14th perfume. For years I’ve always worn Secret Wish, which we launched nine years ago, but this could be the new one for me. You’ve been a big advocate of fashion staying in the garment district… All the uniqueness in New York City that made it special is disappearing. It’s turning into a giant mall. The New York that I love had quirky places like this, neighborhoods where you could go for flowers or Spanish food. It’s all getting homogenized.
scary. That’s happened to everything from baseball to art. Everything that used to be a pastime is now just big business. There’s too much product now. I can’t imagine how a new company can do that. How do you feel about the rumors of the fashion world moving to Hudson Yards? It remains to be seen. It depends on how much of the craftsmanship and tradition they can still maintain. Is it only going to be showrooms? Is there not going to be any actual making of clothing? Are the rents going to be so prohibitive that nobody can really manufacture here anymore? What happens to the industry? Does it turn out like [it did in] England and all the designers have to go elsewhere? Probably. Why aren’t more designers talking about this? Because most designers make clothes overseas. Lastly, are you going to get dessert? We can share something! I rarely get to go out to eat for lunch, so the frozen hot chocolate is a real treat. FIRSTVIEW
Who knew Rebecca
Your skills are impressive! When you aren’t Taylor has been Are you going to leave us designing or dancing, dancing since she and join Dancing with you’re an obsessive... the Stars? reader? was a teenager?! Absolutely. We’ve I read a book called The Daily joined scheduled that in for The Interestings the New Zealand 2042. [laughs] It’s so by Meg Wolitzer. much fun though, right? Don’t know if native for a swing The thing with swing you’ve heard of it. dance lesson at is the man leads, and I wouldn’t put it in Chelsea’s Swing because I run my my pile of highlyown company, telling recommended. Studios, where we everyone what to do I think it should found out what’s all day, it’s actually a be called The tapping her toes nice reverse to come Uninterestings. and dance, and [have I did read a these days. Kid him] indicating what I fascinating novel, ain’t bad! should be doing. I find that Life After Life by BY EDDIE ROCHE really liberating. Is it going Kate Atkinson. to be a dip or a rock back? It’s about that whole PHOTOGRAPHY What made you decide to sliding door theme, like BY GIORGIO NIRO take the lessons? there’s a path you can I always wanted to do it. take and you can go that Did you ever see the movie way, or what your whole Swing Kids? It’s brilliant. It’s life would have been about these Jewish kids in if you had turned this Germany during the Second direction as opposed to the World War, and they would other. go do big swing dances. In What would have been Germany, in those times, they your sliding doors story were really frowned upon, if you didn’t become and in the end it gets busted a designer? up by the Hitler Youth. It’s kind of got Definitely something in a a lot of dark undertones. But it’s a creative field, like the costumes fascinating movie and I just always for the NYC Ballet, or a makeup thought the swing dancing looked like artist. so much fun. Let’s sidetrack and talk about So what’s your history on the your collection. BOOTH: 4604, LEVEL 3 dance floor? It’s what I call modern romantic. I danced ballet until I was about 19. I I had seen a movie over the loved it! I stopped for awhile, when I summer about Renoir, and was a pre-teenager—you know how there was a line he said, boys and things distract—but then to paraphrase, “There’s I went back at it when I was so much ugliness 16. I often reference dance in the world, why studios in the architecture of not do something our stores, or just generally. pretty?” And Dance studios are really that’s how I feel. happy places to be. My collections There’s something are always very about the vibe of a feminine. But, dance studio. Flashdance was my definitely, my girl is wanting it to be What does he do? favorite movie! When I did jazz I more modern and slightly tomboy. He’s an illustrator. He’s a bit of a character. would tape my foot like Jennifer You know, I always like things to Where did you two meet? Beals’ character. She used to be a little bit punky and little bit We met at a bar called Sapphire Lounge. Do you tape her foot and wore black tomboy, but still sort of with the remember it? You’re probably a bit younger. leotards. We couldn’t get them in modern romantic approach. Everyone seems a bit younger now. It was down New Zealand in the Eighties so I had in the Lower East Side, in the Nineties. He was a Are you still having fun? to wear, like, big black knickers. We’re in a really good space at the DJ there. I would put that record on in my moment. You go through times as Does he work from home? room and dance. It’s always [Laughs] Are you just curious about my husband? He a designer where the momentum of been such a great creative outlet fashion shifts. I’m always known for works from home. We have three kids. He and the for me. babysitter take care of them, and he illustrates while very feminine stuff. I remember Kal When was the last time you went Ruttenstein was such a big supporter of they’re at school. out dancing? mine, and he once said, “What happens Got it. So where do you go out dancing now? I was just talking about this with if Annie Hall comes back into fashion?” And where did you used to go? my instructor. He has these big dance And I would think, “Why would you say We went to Twilo. It gets my heart racing thinking nights, but I can’t get my husband to about it. You could smoke then. Everyone would just that?” But it’s true and he had seen it a come out dancing with me! So, I’m looking be smoking away. The theater for Sleep No More hundred times. You adjust and you move. I for a partner. want to be a better designer and give is in the building where Twilo was. When I went to Your husband’s not into it? my customer something she didn’t know the show I was having this weird, spatially shifting He is! It’s a great couples thing. My husband moment. I thought if I walked outside now it could she wanted. loves dressing up. He always wears a hat, tie, be 1996! I thought if I could wish it hard enough, I’d Why did Kal say that to you?! and linen suit. It would be right up his alley. I think he was just being flip. Just being flip! open that door and I’d be on another plane.
TAYLOR MADE MOVES
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R U N WAY: F I R S T V I E W
Warning:
CURVES Ahead When shapely celebs want to strut their stuff, they turn to Tadashi Shoji, the king of glamour! As he celebrates 30 years in the gown game, we quizzed him about his devotion to craft, exceptional staying power, and newest muse, Octavia Spencer. BY JULIE ZIGOS
Your motto is “17 to 70” and you design dresses up to “queen size.” Talk to us about your fascination with size and age. No matter the age or size, a woman wants to feel comfortable while looking beautiful. I enjoy designing dresses that appeal to both young and old, as well as all shapes and sizes. I spend many hours ensuring each dress is perfectly tailored and use luxurious linings and stretch fabrics for their comfort and ease. The first item you ever designed was your sister’s wedding dress. Was she a tough customer? Luckily, it was easy because she trusts my design sense 100 percent. It was an unforgettable experience to be able to share that moment with her. You began showing in New York in 2007. What do think has changed the most about the fashion industry in the past five years? The Internet and social media have become increasingly important. How have your designs changed? Oscar winner My collections are more tightly
edited and cohesive than in seasons past. Curvaceous celebrities love your gowns. Why do you think that is? I have always focused on fit. The placement of a drape or pleat is crucial to how a dress will flatter a figure, and I work diligently to achieve this. Who are your fashion heros? Madame Grès, for her exquisite draping and Cristóbal Balenciaga for transforming the silhouette.
Octavia Spencer
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“Every design he sends me has been a dream gown.” -Octavia Spencer
Is there anyone you’d really like to see in one of your gowns? I’d love to work with Lily Collins on a red carpet moment. That would be fun. This year marks your 30th anniversary in the business. What are you doing to celebrate? We partnered with a blogger named Chriselle Lim on a 30th anniversary collection and
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shot the look book in the Santa Ynez Valley Wine Country. It turned out beautifully. We saw you on Instagram reading Vogue’s September issue. Is that your favorite magazine? I read them all! How would you describe the SS14 collection? Feminine, yet commanding. You’ve said that to avoid being a “starving artist” in Japan, you ran away to Los Angeles when you were 25. What was your favorite thing to do in Cali? I loved, and still love, going to museums to appreciate art and get inspired. During your student apprenticeship, you worked with costume designer Bill Whitten creating costumes for performers like Elton John, Stevie Wonder, and The Jackson 5. Any celeb encounters you’d like to share? Not really, no. To me, they were just ordinary people and I had no clue how important they really were in pop culture. Maybe it’s because of my not knowing that my apprenticeship with Bill lasted as long as it did. What’s one thing very few people know about you? I like cooking. What do you like about working with Octavia Spencer? Octavia is as genuine and loyal as they come, which is very inspiring, especially in Hollywood. We have a mutual admiration for each other. I am overjoyed for her success. FIRSTVIEW (6); GETTY IMAGES (2)
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THROUGH LINDBERGH’S LENS Since shooting Anna’s legendary first Vogue cover circa 1988, the inimitable Peter Lindbergh has photographed everyone from Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Linda Evangelista to Madonna. A crop of 35 shots handselected by the icon will be on display at Valdimir Restoin Roitfeld’s UES gallery at 5A East 78th St. through October 4. So how does he feel about the perils of Photoshop, all those celeb magazine covers, and the newest crowd of young artists? BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV & PAIGE REDDINGER Confession: Of all of the iconic supermodels you’ve shot, who’s the most fun to shoot with? If I answer that question, I would be killed by tomorrow. What do you think of the modern mania for retouching? The ease of using Photoshop shows a contemporary image of women that is totally unacceptable. Future generations will ask themselves what our problem was and why we loved to create these monsters of perfection. What would you change about the fashion business? I would wish for less marketing and more “naiveté,” knowing that I’m the one who’s “naive” here. There is this ruthless copying of the people with talent from the people with less talent. You see photographers working in their studios with other photographers’ pictures on the walls for inspiration. Nobody just sits down and thinks what he wants to do! All these images will not last long. What do you make of celebs replacing models FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
on the covers of fashion magazines? Covers are there to sell magazines. I think actresses are more interesting than models at this moment, but that might change again. How did Vladimir approach you? We’ve known each other through Carine [Roitfeld] and from amfAR events in Cannes. I was impressed to see him open his gallery, and by the shows he has done. When he came to us proposing a show, we did not think long! He’s a great young spirit. What’s your favorite photo in the show? This might change from day to day! But I think my favorite portrait in the show is of Amber Valletta looking down on Fifth Avenue from a Rockefeller Center balcony. There is an incredible magic in her face. Will your kids pursue photography? Yes, I have a son who is an art photographer; he works with his girlfriend under the name “Lucie and Simon.” They are both very strong and passionate. He’s trying hard not to be known as my son, but his images are amazing and worlds away from mine. What do you like to shoot when you’re not shooting fashion? I’ve been working for more than a year on a very special project called “Testament,” which is about filmed portraits of death row inmates who have no possibility for appeals anymore. The inmates are filmed for 35 minutes very close up, while looking in a small mirror. No words are used, no talking, no explaining, no questions, no answers. What was your Fashion Week schedule like this season? I don’t go to fashion shows anymore, with very few exceptions. I try not to get my inspiration from the fashion shows and even less from the magazines. This helps me to have a different angle for my inspiration. GETTY IMAGES (2)
early spring | spring 2014 Coterie Booth #6245 Javits, Level 3
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Super-duo Stefano Gabbana & Domenico Dolce in their own designs.
Fashion imperatrix Anna Wintour in DSquared2. Viva Italia! Donatella Prada, meet Miuccia Versace!
Billionaire brandsmith Tory Burch in Ashish.
Mayor Bloomberg’s ripped up the traffic lanes, why not this Emporio Armani T-shirt?
CHICOVERS
Martha Stewart’s new Match.com outfit.
Michael Kors’ mulletchic look is perfect for La Linds. Business up top, party down below!
Fall is in the air, darlings, and we’re in the mood for some major makeovers. Are vous?
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G E T T Y ( 7 ) ; B FA N YC . C O M ( 4 ) ; F I R S T V I E W. C O M ( 6 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 3 ) ; S H U T T E R S TO C K
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