The Daily Front Row by DAILY FRONT ROW INC

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MADISON AVENUE | FIFTH AVENUE | MACY’S HERALD SQUARE | SOHO LONGCHAMP.COM

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KENDALL JENNER

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Italian style There’s

ing n ot h e it! lik

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LE PIACENTINI 6333 LIVIANA CONTI 6243 MELAROSA 6342 NATYOURAL 6244 NUMERO 8 6341 ROBERT FRIEDMAN 6329 ROBERTA GANDOLFI 6269 ROSSO35 6326 SEVENTY VENEZIA 6322 SHAFT JEANS 6230 twinset milano 6323

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Italy@NYC

February 11â&#x20AC;&#x201C;13, 2020 Jacob K. Javits Center Fall/Winter 2020

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LEGENDARY STYLE SINCE 1889

Find a salon at Moroccanoil.com Bluemercury, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Sephora & Luxury Resorts

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Testing testing

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“Game time, chéris!”

F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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bring back the joie!

As the chicness overload commences, are you up on all the essential intel du moment bound to dominate front row small talk and party banter? Take the quiz, thank us later…

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During the Paris Couture shows in January, which editor inadvertently ended up with egg in le coif, thanks to anti-Macron protestors? A. Brana Wolf B. Suzy Menkes C. Cathy Horyn D. Hamish Bowles Which of the following brands is still showing in New York this season? A. 3.1 Phillip Lim B. Chocheng C. Tom Ford D. Baja East At a splashy soirée in Paris, Gap announced an upcoming collaboration with… A. Lady Amanda Harlech B. Telfar Clemens C. Supreme D. Natalia Vodianova According to a press release, Balenciaga’s return to haute couture is courtesy of… A. “the success of the creative vision of Demna Gvasalia as well as the exceptional results of Balenciaga these past few years” B. “the strength of the French economy” C. “the American appetite for novelty and grandpa sneakers” D. “intergalactic forces beyond our control” Some fashion critics compared one of Lizzo’s three Grammys looks to something famously worn by… A. Céline Dion B. Melania Trump C. Billy Porter D. Britney Spears

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Which of the following models did not appear in Gaultier’s farewell couture show? A. Bella Hadid B. Coco Rocha C. Paris Jackson D. Amber Valetta Who is Naomi Watanabe? A. The latest addition to the cast of The View B. The Japanese comedian who is the latest face of Kate Spade C. The real designer of Vaquera D. The fashion editor of The New Yorker C’est quoi, Aubazine? A. The convent where Coco Chanel spent her early years B. Pantone’s newly named color of 2020 C. The French fashion set’s favorite new benzo D. The latest addition to the French newsstand, an intimates-only quarterly sponsored by lingerie brand Aubade Which of the following anecdotes is not discussed in Dan Peres’ upcoming memoir? A. Withdrawing from drugs at the CFDA Awards B. His friendship with David Copperfield C. His intense squash rivalry with Jim Nelson D. The birth of his first son Áslaug Magnúsdóttir, the co-founder of Moda Operandi, has launched a new project. What is it? A. A seasonless, sustainable brand called Katla B. A relaunch of Socialite Rank C. A redesigned Avenue Magazine D. A low-end competitor to The RealReal called The CheapCheap

Who is the quasi-famous brother of Goop No. 2 Elise Loehnen? A. The respected New York book editor Ben Loehnen B. Feisty Madrid-based chef Marco Loehnen C. Paul Loehnen, the under-the-radar bureaucrat who is likely to be tapped to replace outgoing transit chief Andy Byford D. Key impeachment witness John Loehnen, who once worked for Robert Mueller Gray Sorrenti is… A. A native of New York City B. The 20-year-old daughter of Mario Sorrenti and Mary Frey C. A rising photographer who has worked for Saint Laurent, La Mer, and Vogue Italia D. All of the above

0–4 CORRECT ANSWERS YOU ARE…LAUREN HOLLY Oh, gorgeous one. We’ve lost touch entirely. You need our back issues? Done. Our website archives are also there for your each and every inquiry. Help is here—but only if you’ll invest your time in getting back up to speed. It’s worth it! 5–9 CORRECT ANSWERS YOU ARE…LAUREN HUTTON Eternally chic, you’re forever in style— but you’re a touch out to date on the latest and greatest. Study our back issues on issuu.com, and you’ll be caught up in no time! 10–13 CORRECT ANSWERS YOU ARE…LAUREN SANCHEZ The girl who everyone is talking about. You’re so in-the-know about everything that matters, we should be asking you for tips. Call us sometime? answers: 1. C; 2. D; 3. B; 4. B; 5. A; 6. D; 7. D; 8. B; 9. A; 10. C; 11. A; 12. A; 13. D

@WintourWorld, an Instagram fan account that follows AW with the breathless fervor usually reserved for the royals, has how many followers? A. 24K B. 68K C. 160K D. 354k

FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M

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Chic

chic Moments

Moments

Fresh

talent The event celebrated artist Amoako Boafo, a rising star in the art world.

Fashion + Art (Basel) An elegant, poolside supper party, packed with artists and models galore. Photography by Daniel Zuliani

“Life’s a beach!”

Alex Dickerson and Victoria Brito

James Turlington

Arianne Rudes and Albert Schami

Brandusa Niro and Jeff Rudes

F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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DINNER IS SERVED The delectable spread featured an array of Argentinian dishes, served family-style.

Steven Lagos and Kristie Nicolosi

Jacopo Moschin and Aimee Song

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In December, The Daily Front Row and L’Agence took over the pool at the Faena Miami Beach for an intimate dinner to celebrate our special Art Basel issue, starring Joan Smalls and the upcoming launch of L’Agence’s new collaboration with the Bert Stern Trust. The evening was also a celebration of breakthrough Basel artist Amoako Boafo. Notable guests included Joan Smalls, Paris Hilton, Caroline Daur, Karolína Kurková, L’Agence’s Jeff Rudes, Jessica Hart, Aimee Song, Sebastian Faena, Young Paris, CAA’s Josh Otten, Charlotte Bickley, Ashley Haas, Julia Lang, Sofia Resing, Pritika Swarup, Gilda Joelle, Timo Weiland, Kemio, Victoria Brito, Jeremy Larner, Euphoria’s Nika King, Shaun Ross, and James Turlington.

“Guess who's here?"

Karolína Kurková Ashley Hass Jeff Rudes Jessica Hart and James Kirkham

Joan Smalls, Sebastian Faena, and Paris Hilton

Caroline Daur

THE DISH Joan Smalls

The evening began with whiskey by Redemption and wine by the pool, courtesy of Josh Cellars, The Calling Wine, Clos de los Siete, and La Fête du Rosé, followed by a sit-down dinner and after-party. A Basel blast!

Paris Hilton

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Charlotte Bickley

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Chic

CHICMoments

“I love Basel!”

Moments

Daniela Moreno and Sofia Morgan

Charles Gorra

Gavin Casalegno and Larsen Thompson

DJ Leigh Lezark

Tini Goobar

In the Bag!

Ashley Haas

This stylish Art Basel fête, hosted by Rebag and The Daily, showcased a different, wearable type of covetable masterpieces.

Special thanks to…Rebag, The Misshapes, La Fête du Rosé, Josh Cellars, Bellacosa Wine, The Calling, Butterfinger Candy Pop, Twix Candy Pop, and Mass Audio Productions.

Donal Brophy

Photography by Daniel Zuliani Rebag helped The Daily toast its Art Basel digital issue with a party at its gorgeous Miami Design District boutique. After a long day spent perusing Art Basel’s best sculptures and paintings, Miami’s chicsters were presented with yet another beautiful display: luxury handbags! A slew of scene makers, including Larsen Thompson, Shaun Ross, Tini Goobar, Ashley Haas, Sofia Resing, Victoria Brito, Blake Gray, and Rebag founder and CEO Charles Gorra, chatted, snacked, and even did a little dancing, all while eyeing some of the gorgeous bags for sale. Leigh Lezark of The Misshapes worked the DJ booth all night. Another Basel party for the books!

Victoria Brito, Eef Vicca, and Shaun Ross

Name Here Sofia Resing

Emilie Meinadier, Valeria Lipovetsky, and Idalia Salsamendi

Names Here

Sydney Sadick

F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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nyfw@pier59.com

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The Daily Wonders…

scene

Which major American designer with an eponymous maison is reportedly in talks to take the reins chez Prada? In other news you already know, Raf Simons is rumored to be apartmenthunting in Milan in preparation to take over at Miu Miu…

Welcome back to NYFW! It’s time for another season of chic, so arm yourself with your beloved Daily in print, filled with all the essential intel and delicious bon mots you adore us for. See you at the shows, darlings!

1 It’s a three-way tie! The Daily’s

meet LIZZI BICKFORD

intimate din with Hervé Léger and cover girl Winnie Harlow tonight; our Influencer bash at Fleur Room on Saturday; and Coterie cocktail party at Legacy Records on Tuesday. Bulgari’s “Unapologetic Night” in BK, for its B.zero1 Rock baubles. Dress code: More is more! Fenty time! Rihanna celebrates the debut of Fenty at Bergdorf Goodman on Friday.

EIC and President of The Daily Front Row Palm Beach What’s your Palm Beach connection? My family has been in Palm Beach for four generations. 2 I lived there full-time for four years, and got very connected to the community and its philanthropic organizations. Palm Beach is probably best known for opulence, but it has a deeper focus, on giving back. 3 What’s exciting about bringing The Daily to Palm Beach in March? Whimsical fashion and irreverent style are a rich part of its history. I’m excited to share Palm Beach’s most exciting fashion moments with the world, and inspire Palm Beachers when considering “what to wear” to their next fabulous fête! REMEMBERING What is Palm Beach’s style M.O.? ED filipowski Anything goes! No one would look twice if Last month, the industry lost KCD’s you made your way down Worth Avenue beloved Ed Filipowski, at age 58. The in tennis whites, dripping in diamonds, influential behind-the-scenes mover and or clad in a bikini and fabulous caftan. shaker had a huge impact on the biz Palm Beach is also about having a sense that extended far beyond the tony of humor, and quirkiness often gets PR firm’s impressive clientele. expressed through personal style here.

daily double

You will be missed, Ed.

. . .

Kim Kardashian

Sonia Ali

Haute Topics! IMG’s NYFW: BTS and NYFW: The Talks events return this season at Spring Studios, exploring the intersection of sports and fashion, new beauty standards, and more with Maye Musk, Erin Walsh, Cynthia Rowley, and more.

. .

FEELING FELINE!

WITH ADRIANA LIMA

Love your Privé Revaux specs collab! My children actually helped me choose the colors and designs for the Love Valentina and Love Sienna styles. My favorite style is an aviator, called The Panther. That’s my nickname. It happened after I started modeling. I think it’s because of the combination of my eyes and my dark hair. How strong is your prescription? Last year, it was terrible, it was -3.25; this year, it was back to -2. I don’t know how that’s possible. I think it’s stress-related. My doctor told me that. I’m definitely less stressed [this year]. Why are you less stressed? Maybe because I’m single!

THINGS TO DISCUSS…

Jeremy Scott opted out of NYFW to show in Paris instead. We’ll miss you! Other Big Apple defectors this season: Baja East and Tom Ford, both showing in L.A. NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM! Brandon Maxwell always picks interesting venues, and this season’s no exception—the Natural History Museum’s Hall of North American Mammals. Fashion field trip! Goodbye, Glenda! After 19 years as EIC, Glenda Bailey has bid adieu to Harper’s Bazaar. Her successor? Still TBD… Speaking of Bazaar… We can’t get enough of the sublime portfolio in its March issue, shot by Sebastian Faena with styling by Carine Roitfeld! Karlie! Grace! Stella! Heaven! Halima Aden, model, activist… executive producer! The 2019 FMA winner worked on I Am You, a film about refugees’ experiences. On February 6, she’s co-hosting a screening during NYFW, with Pier59 Studios’ Federico Pignatelli.

SHOW TIME!

WITH influencer JESSica WANG

What are your Fashion Month plans? I just got back from my first haute couture in Paris, and I’m looking forward to New York and Milan! Over the years, it’s become less about attending every event in all the major cities. I’m looking forward to Tom Ford and Coach, and I’m collaborating this season with Michael Kors, who I admire a lot. What’s your style strategy for shows? Fashion packing is hard. I’m not a light traveler! When styling my Fashion Month outfits, it really depends on my mood and if there are certain pieces I want to showcase. When attending shows, I always save images to my phone of pieces I’d love to style. What are your 2020 career goals? I’d like to test designing smaller collections of my own. I also want to actively take on more charity work.

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BREAKING NEWS: the daily palm beach is coming!

predicted party rankings!

F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO Chief Content Officer Eddie Roche

Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Dean Quigley

Math Lesson! In the supermodel’s interview with Comme des Garçon’s mastermind for the latest issue of LOVE magazine, Kawakubo enlighten us way she with some numerical logic about her creative portrays process: “I believe that 1 plus 1 can equal 3 herself. It’s or 4. Unexpected accidents happen. But about her the two things coming together must look, about be strong creation to start her position. She with.” Deep!

WITH ELLEN VON UNWERTH How was it going through 30 years of work for your exhibition? It was interesting to see where it all started. Through the years, all the countless people I photographed… it was a real journey and brought back lots of memories. I rediscovered lots of pictures I forgot about. It was really fun. How has your aesthetic

evolved during your career? Techniques change. But I’ve always photographed women in an empowered, strong position, while also full of life, fun, and sensuality. That’s still what I love. I’ve always loved random shots and candid moments, too. What does a strong, empowered woman look like to you? She’s just very aware of the

owns the picture— she owns what she’s doing, and that’s important. She can be naked or wearing an evening gown. It’s really about showing her personality.

chic lit! With Kathy Ireland

News Quiz! What’s Pepper Foster, co-founder of Chip & Pepper, up to now? A. Running a hip sound bath studio in Austin B. Peddling Pepper’s Chips, his vegan jackfruit jerky, at the Union Square Greenmarket C. Relaunching Easy Riders, a 50-year-old motorcycle glossy D. Writing children’s books about a plucky group of pals in the produce aisle

Answer: C

Tell us about your new novel, Fashion Jungle! There’s romance, thrills, political intrigue, and a cautionary tale. It’s the story of four women who come together in their teens through modeling. They’re a tribe, and look out for one another. That was my experience in the industry. I met some amazing women; we had one another’s backs. Some choices the characters make aren’t great, but as the story unfolds, there’s hope. What was it like to revisit that career phase? Really interesting! Nearly 40 years ago, I came to NYC for the first time. My mom came with me for the first five days to get me situated.

Digital Director Charles Manning Fashion News Editor Aria Darcella Editors-at-Large Charlotte and Sophie Bickley Contributing Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists George Maier, Nola Romano

FEELING FRESH!

With Saint New York’s Alexandra Moosally and Jake McCabe

Why focus on men’s grooming, specifically deodorant? Alexandra Moosally: The women’s market is saturated; unfortunately, guys are left out. Jake McCabe: I’ve been a fashion and beauty creative for years. I love product, and have always thought of creating something for myself. When my kids were old enough, I was reminded of that and that they, and their generation, deserved their own brand. We focus on clean formulas and safe ingredients.

Editor in Chief & President The Daily Front Row Palm Beach Lizzi Bickford Chief Marketing Officer Alex Dickerson Fashion Publishing Director Monica Forman Marketing Manager Nandini Vaid Digital Operations Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor Intern Nicol Maciejewska To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019.

PROMOTION

Amuse bouche

A red haute lip can be rocked any season! For Naeem Khan’s Spring 2020 collection, makeup artist Gato created a glossy look paired with a graphic eye. “There’s a nod to the ’70s, but still this look is all about contemporary glamour,” he said. Why wait for better weather when you can wear it now?

BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK Color Sensational Vivid Hot Lacquer in So Hot, $7.99, maybelline.com

PRO TIP: Make sure to rim the lower waterline of eye and tightline the top lashes for a defined look.

On the cover

Winnie Harlow, photographed by Jacques Burga for Elle Russia. Styled by Lilya Simonyan; hair by Hos Hounkpatin; makeup by Porsche Cooper.

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REMINISCING!

Contributing Executive Editor Alexandra Ilyashov

With Rei Kawakubo and Kate Moss

F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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Game

changer

Winning Like

Winnie It’s been quite a whirlwind for Winnie Harlow. In the past two years, the model made good on nabbing a Vogue cover (or two!) and a VS show—a pair of high-profile dream projects she first told us about in 2018, the sort of goals that many catwalk stars spend far longer chasing, if ever accomplishing. So, what’s Harlow striving for next? Well, it’s sort of a plan to not have a plan, with all sorts of exciting surprise encounters and opportunities along the way. By ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV Photography by JACQUES BURGA Styled by LILYA SIMONYAN Hair by HOS HOUNKPATIN Makeup by PORSCHE COOPER Movement Direction by JUSTIN R. TORRES

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What’s new with you, Winnie? Things have been great. I’m just kind of focused this year on not focusing on work so much. I’m really excited for Fashion Week to be coming around, but I’m kind of just focusing on taking care of myself, mentally and physically. I’m not slowing down at all, actually, but I’m just making sure there’s time and space for necessary things, like going to the dentist or doctor, getting a massage, and making sure my skin is good and healthy, with all the chemical products and stuff we use in our industries, being in entertainment. Or reading a book, and taking time to sit on the couch and catch up with whatever shows I’ve been bingeing. What’s in your Netflix queue currently? Don’t judge me, but I just finished Scandal. I started a few months ago, and I literally just binged seven seasons, so that was a lot of fun. I never wanted to get into it because seven seasons seems intimidating, but I’m really happy I did. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I’m back on track now with You, Season 2. I was obsessed with the first season and for the past month I’ve been trying to start Season 2, but every time I try to start, I get busy again and have to run out to a fitting or whatever the case is. Such is life! Did you make any New Year’s resolutions or goals for 2020? I used to make a list of things to achieve, but once those things were achieved, it was kind of pointless for me to make a list; I’d accomplished things beyond my dreams. So I couldn’t even imagine anything more to put down on the list, because the things coming to me were just so incredible, I couldn’t even think of them in the first place. Random things came out of the woodwork. What sorts of surprising opportunities? Being in Beyoncé’s new music video, or Calvin Harris and Sam Smith’s music video. Stuff like that, I would’ve never been like, “Oh, yeah, one day I want to do a music video with Calvin Harris and Sam Smith, because that’s kind of far-fetched. I was like, “Okay, you know what? God has created a plan for me, and I can’t really write the story, it’s already written.” So my job is just to put the work and the grind into the opportunities I take. Personally, I like videos and film in general more than stills or runway. Not that there isn’t room to mess up in photos, because there is, but it’s kind of terrifying to walk a runway. With film, it’s like, cool, if you get something wrong, you look back at it, if you didn’t like it, you can redo it, to get it right. With runway, you’ve got one shot; that’s how you look, that’s it. In mid-2018, you told us your biggest career goals were nabbing a Vogue cover and walking the Victoria’s Secret show. A year and a half later, you’ve done both. How did that feel? With accomplishing things like that, it’s kind of like, “What’s the point in making a list anymore? If I can achieve stuff like that, and it’s already written.” It just takes hard work, sacrifice, and dedication to make more things happen. It was insane. I mean, walking Victoria’s Secret was incredible. My first and second Vogue covers are now out, and I’m honored. I mean, being 16 years old, growing up, I couldn’t see myself on Vogue. It wasn’t something I didn’t think was possible because I couldn’t do it; modeling was never a dream of mine. It was never something I saw in my future. I never thought anyone like me could be on Vogue covers. So it wasn’t doubt in myself. It was more about doubt in the industry. But to see myself on a Vogue cover now is so surreal, and so humbling. It’s something I never thought would happen. You shared news of these huge career milestones in emotional Instagram posts. How has your relationship to social media changed as your career has progressed? As I’ve become more successful, I’ve also become more cautious of what I post, which kind of makes social media

“I used to make a list of things to achieve, but once those were achieved, it was kind of pointless for me to make a list; I’d accomplished things beyond my dreams.” not as fun as when, once upon a time, I was 17 and posting whatever I wanted to post. It got to a point where I was posting whatever, and an agent would be like, “Maybe you should remove that!” It’s kind of become a part of my job and of my career as I’ve gotten older, and I understand. But that growth out of social media just being something for fun was difficult, to say the least. Though you’re sharing a bit less, do you still peruse social media to see what other people are up to? Yeah, for sure. I definitely love the fact that I can watch people’s Insta Stories back to back, and kind of feel near, even with the distance, to my friends, family, and peers, so I do use social media outside of actually posting.

Do you have any traditions for how to celebrate career wins you’re especially proud of, like these major roles? No. Maybe I should. That’s a good idea! It’s a good addition to my whole self-care plans—acknowledging my successes. It all kind of goes really quickly. Once a cover’s out, it’s out, and then it’s like, on to the next. I kind of forget to stop and just appreciate the things that I’ve accomplished. Until now! You deserve it! We’re intrigued by your friendship with Kim Kardashian. You must be pretty close, based on the friendship necklace you gave her as a holiday gift, which Kim shared on social media. How and when did you meet? I met Kim in passing multiple times, because obviously

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Game

changer

Kendall [Jenner] and I work in the same industry, and her family has always been supportive of her career. So I met them various times over the years. But it wasn’t until two or three years ago when a mutual friend of Kim and mine told me Kim wanted to get my number to give me a call, because she had something she wanted to talk to me about, and asked if it was okay to give her my number. I was like, Yeah, for sure. So Kim messaged me, asked me a few questions, and asked if I could jump on the phone. We talked on the phone for an hour or so, about autoimmune disorders, dermatology, life, my upbringing, a whole bunch of stuff, just getting to know each other. That was our first personal encounter. How did you become closer? From there, she invited me to her baby shower and stuff like that. I started hanging out with Kim and her family more often, whether it was her inviting me to [Kanye West’s] Sunday Service [religious worship events]. Or Kylie [Jenner] inviting me to her birthday party. I just ended up hanging out with them more and more often, and as we hung out, that’s how you build bonds. It kind of

flowed naturally. Then I had an idea for something to do with beauty. I brought the idea to her and she was really excited, and wanted to do something even quicker than my idea [would take], because she was so happy I wanted to work with her. She suggested we do a makeup collab. I was obviously excited she wanted do something. It just happened naturally. You’ve been candid about why it’s complicated, but important, for you to be vocal about your experience with vitiligo, and how you don’t necessarily want to be a spokesperson for the condition. How open or private do you find you want to be about vitiligo recently? It’s my skin, so it’s the first thing you see. There’s no such thing as privacy. But it’s not a privacy thing for me. It’s the same thing as having one token black person and asking them, “How would you guys say this in your slang?” I’m not my skin. People make it such a thing where it’s like, Oh, my gosh, she is the spokesperson. No, I’m not a spokesperson. I happen to have vitiligo and I’m proud of it, but I’m also not a spokesperson for it just because you want me to be, or just because I have

a skin condition. That’s not how life works. That makes it difficult. It’s not about me being private about my skin condition. I love talking about it. But it’s not the only thing about me. You told us back in 2018 that you wanted to see more diversity backstage in terms of hairstylists and makeup artists of color, who really know how to work with diverse types of hair and skin. Has there been much progress in the past two years? Nope! I’m not gonna lie. Though, in some cases, I have actually seen a big difference; I recently walked for Jeremy Scott and his idea for the runway was to have braids and finger waves, which stem from black heritage. I usually come prepared when it comes to going backstage, just because of my experience over quite a few years in the modeling industry, and I came prepared for Jeremy’s show. But I was pleasantly surprised to see the majority of hairstylists and glam [makeup artists] backstage were black, or were well-versed in black hair. I was shocked, surprised, and proud of those decisions being made. From walking in couture shows in Europe, there’s definitely still tons of growth to be made and had.

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strike a

pose

Peruvian-born, Paris-based photographer Jacques Burga gives us a behind-the-scenes look at the totally ’90s-inspired shoot.

“I happen to have vitiligo and I’m proud of it, but I’m also not a spokesperson for it just because you want me to be, or just because I have a skin condition.”

My thing is, I also don’t know if this is my experience because of who I am or the voice that I have, which would be disappointing. I feel like this should be the experience for all models, or anyone in entertainment who has to deal with glam. I don’t want it to be just my experience; I want it to be everyone else’s experience. But I have experienced glam backstage being more open to what the model feels comfortable with; that’s not to say the entire look, but what color or shade, or how something is applied to the skin. How can backstage pros help foster a more welcoming environment for all models? I’ve had someone ask me, “Is it okay if I use my fingers to blend?”—which is an appropriate question to ask! Because just smearing your fingers in someone’s face wouldn’t be normal in any other setting. But there are also preferences of how a makeup artist likes to do their art. So coming to a mutual understanding, that both people are in each other’s face, and just doing it in a respectful way, is important. It’s about treating people like humans, regardless of their career titles.

Absolutely. So we won’t ask about your career goals because the sky’s the limit. But if you could manifest anything else… I mean, to pick a couple, just off the top of my brain, an American Vogue cover, for sure, and more couture shows. And you know what? Something I feel like I’m already doing now—is the fact that I’m doing couture shows and I’ve put on so much weight since Victoria’s Secret, and I lost so much weight for Victoria’s Secret; well, not losing weight, but training to tighten my body and muscles because, obviously, walking in lingerie is way different than walking down the runway in clothes. The fact I’ve now walked couture shows at the weight I feel comfortable in. I mean, I haven’t worked out in a long time, and I feel kind of proud of the industry for accepting that. Not saying I’m plus size or anything, but I’m definitely not as skinny as I was in the beginning of my career. The fact that I’m still walking couture shows and other fashion shows, not being exactly sample size? I’m proud. I’ll be going back down to sample sizes because summertime is coming around, but that’s a personal choice. I don’t feel like it’s demanded of me.

When did you first start working with Elle Russia? This shoot! They gave me the opportunity, though we hadn’t worked together before. What was the concept for this shoot? The story was about dancing and timeless voguing poses. Our movement director, Justin R. Torres, helped us a lot. Without him, the actual poses wouldn’t have been possible. We shot instudio as we preferred to show a “white canvas.” Have you and Winnie Harlow worked together before? We have! We shot the Harper’s Bazaar Latin America November 2018 cover in Paris some months before, but this one was pretty fantastic. It was all about Winnie giving bold attitudes and a lot of movement. Winnie knows she has power—the power of uniqueness, but also of confidence. That makes the shoot a delight itself. I can surely say she had inner capabilities to flex and resist hard poses that require certain strength. It just worked out as we all wanted. Have any mentors influenced your career? I definitely have always admired Karl Lagerfeld, since the moment I was at university. Everything he used to say was an actual statement—a mix between sarcasm and truth. I especially love his passion for hard-working 24/7 the whole year. His biggest love was his actual work, his visions for Chanel and Fendi every season, and a passion for good taste. I’ve rarely met someone like that. I’ll always have that in my mind. If someone or something has made me believe in fashion not as a job or as industry but as a life, it’s Karl. Who would you most love to shoot? So many names! Amazingly iconic people such as Gisele Bündchen, Victoria Beckham, and Lady Gaga would all be a dream, for different reasons. Which creative talents do you hope to work with? It would be an honor to work with some of the industry’s biggest names, like Carine Roitfeld and Tom Ford.

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Carry on

Icon

Returns

Classic French brand Longchamp is showing its Fall 2020 collection on Saturday, and in chic intel you can use even sooner, the label has reinvented its Roseau handbags for Summer ’20. While it’s impossible to walk a few blocks in NYC without spotting one of the French brand’s nylon Le Pliage totes, the Roseau is poised to be the brand’s new-again arm candy of the season. The Roseau first appeared in the 1990s and quickly became a staple for the maison, thanks to its distinctive bamboo-style toggle and streamlined, sporty finish. Sophie Delafontaine, Longchamp’s artistic director, explains how the reinterpreted design—which counts Kendall Jenner and actresses Bailee Madison and Mary Elizabeth Winstead among its fans—has been tweaked for 2020, whether toted around the city of light or the city that never sleeps. The distinctive closure, inspired by a duffle coat, is now a larger, more prominent feature. The top handle bag is available in four sizes and in both cowhide and luxe lambskin leather versions. For Delafontaine, whose grandfather Jean Cassegrain founded the company in 1948, the time felt right to bring the sophisticated and stylish bag back to the fore. As she puts it, “Understated elegance is part of our DNA; Longchamp bags are simple and timeless.”

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By FREYA DROHAN

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in the Why did Longchamp decide to reinterpret the Roseau? The Roseau has been a part of the iconic lines of La Maison Longchamp for the past 25 years. We have always reinterpreted it so it stays well within its time. This year, I wanted to rework its design, shape, and details. What are the major differences in design between the original and the reinterpreted version? The main changes are the shapes and proportions, including the handles, which were also redesigned, and the bamboo hardware, which was modernized and redesigned in a bigger size. It’s more modern, but without neglecting the heritage of the iconic Roseau. What was the original inspiration for this bag in the 1990s? Back in the ’90s, it was innovative and original to introduce this handbag as an open tote bag where you could easily find what you were looking for. How do you imagine life has changed for the person who carried this bag in the 1990s versus today’s customer? The bag proportions have really changed according to the needs of women. Today, bags are mini-bags, where you just carry an iPhone and your credit card, or a much bigger bag where you can carry your laptop.

How does the bag’s design fit into the overall ethos of Maison Longchamp? The bag’s design fits well into the heritage of the brand with its understated design and strong personality. What’s always in your own bag? In my bag, like all women, I have my phone, a lot of pens, my credit card, and also my passport as I’m always on the move…and of course, some makeup for last-minute touch-ups before going to dinner. How would you style this bag for an outfit in both New York and Paris? In New York, definitely [with] a pair of jeans, sneakers, a silk blouse, and a leather jacket. In Paris, boots, a coat, and a cashmere sweater in a casual chic spirit. What can people expect from Longchamp in 2020 and beyond? A brand that is eternally reinventing itself to always appeal to current and future generations. Describe the ideal Longchamp muse for 2020. The ideal Longchamp muse is a powerful, well-traveled, international woman always on the move. I’m inspired by all women. What can we expect from Longchamp’s upcoming NYFW show? As with previous seasons, the Parisian spirit will be key in the show—an elegant Parisian woman confidently walking in New York during the wintertime.

bag

It’s time to get familiar (or reacquainted) with Longchamp’s Roseau styles, whether or not you toted one of these equally elegant and practical carryalls around when they first debuted in the ’90s. The only conundrum? Picking a favorite iteration of the refreshed classic!

Roseau Shoulder Bag in Natural, $590

Roseau Shoulder Bag in Pink, $550

Roseau Shoulder Bag in Pilot Blue, $550

Roseau Shoulder Bag in Blue, $660

Roseau Top Handle Bag in Red, $470

all available at longchamp.com

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Fashion moment

Brand New Day When Hervé Léger brought on Christian Juul Nielsen as their new creative director in 2018, they infused a shot of energy to a brand ready for a reboot. An alum of Dior, Nina Ricci, and Oscar de la Renta, Nielsen spent the bulk of his career working with some of the greatest designers of our time, and now it’s his turn to show ’em what he’s got. By EDDIE ROCHE

got bags of feathers and nylon and sat on the balcony, stuffing feathers. Later in my career, I was employed full-time at Dior after I worked at Nina Ricci. At the time John was very present, and he knew what he wanted. He trusted his team. It was very much, “This is your talent; this is what you’re good at. I want to see you grow.” I see in other houses a lot, and hear from friends, that when you micromanage and tell people everything they have to do, you lose the energy. I think that’s a problem in many houses. That’s why John was so good, and why his shows were so amazing. He got people that he trusted, and held on to them. When I was an intern, I came for a month. They believed in [me] and kept me for six months. How long were you at Dior? Eight years. I was with John for four years and then he had a year in between and then Raf Simons started. I worked with Raf for three years.

What was it like working with Raf Simons? He’s a fantastic character. I love him. When I work with younger designers now I always say, “Don’t stay at the same place for too long. You don’t want to become part of the wallpaper!” You want to develop and learn at one house, take it to another house, and always keep yourself fresh. At Dior, I felt like I had three different jobs over the years. I worked with Galliano, where I almost only draped. Then, we had an in-between year, which was the more commercial year. With Raf, things changed dramatically. I remember part of the team thought they were getting fired—he came in with such a different energy than John. I’ve worked a lot on haute couture at Dior, so my argument was, “I don’t think so. He doesn’t have couture people on his team.” So when Raf started, there was a bit of fear. I went to his office, knocked on the door, and said, “Raf, couture is two months away, I think we should get started.”

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Tell us about your background. I was born in Copenhagen. I’ve always been creative and wanted to do fashion since an early age. I started in London and moved to Paris quite soon because I got the opportunity to intern with John Galliano. It was supposed to be just a month, but while I was there, the woman I was working with said, “Why don’t you stay until couture and start working on Dior as well?” At such a young age, I was working on couture gowns—it was amazing. As an intern, how much did you interact with John Galliano? He was quite involved. He and [head of studio] Steven Robinson knew exactly who was on the Galliano team and the Dior team. I remember sitting in the Avenue Montaigne [studio] working on embroidery and Stephen saying, “Christian, come in to see us,” and it would be him and John in one of the salons and he would be like, “I want you to make a kimono bomber jacket.” So I just

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“The new Hervé girl is a modern woman who wants to look feminine and sexy but doesn’t want to look vulgar.”

How did he respond? He was like, “I don’t want to push it; you guys have Resort to do.” I was like, “No, Resort is launched, we need to get on with couture. It’s a different build-up.” I was very direct with Raf. I didn’t think he was going to fire us. I’ve learned in my career that you need to show what you can do, and if you’re good at what you do, people hold on to you. That’s technically how it works. If you don’t get along personality-wise, that’s another thing. Why is he a fantastic character? Everybody, including me, thought that Raf would be a cold character—a bit harder, more European. But he’s lots of fun. He liked to interact with the team. He was focused on what was young and happening right now. When there was a break, he was funny, joking around with the team, and just having a good time. He wanted his team to be happy.

Where did you go after Dior? I became the design director for Oscar de la Renta with Peter Copping in New York. I always wanted to move here. I didn’t want to leave Dior, but I felt like I had to see something new. It was a natural move to go to Oscar with Peter. We did it for a year and then I started freelancing, because Peter moved back to Europe. I worked on a couple of jobs, then [became creative director for] LAND of Distraction. I was doing both jobs at the same time, between L.A. and New York. Then, Hervé Leger called me to ask if I’d be interested in coming to work for them. What made you decide to go for it? I was at a stage in my career where I needed to take the next step. I wanted a house with a legacy or story behind it, which a lot of houses do have, but they’re either very big and just focusing on perfumes, or they’re small and struggling. Hervé was a niche brand, which I was really

excited about. I saw a lot of opportunities and thought it could actually be really exciting. There were definitely things to be done. Did you comb through the archives or do other research? The company had just been bought by ABG [Authentic Brands Group] when I started. I didn’t know where things were, so I ran to different libraries trying to find images. Suddenly, we found boxes full of Hervé ’90s archives. I feel like Hervé had two big movements, in the ’90s and the 2000s, and I focus a lot on the ’90s vibe—the supermodel energy and the fun. I was even looking on YouTube at the girls talking about the collection and how excited they were about doing the show. There’s a video with Linda Evangelista saying, “I do one show a year for free and this year it’s Hervé, because he’s a great artist”— that obviously meant she liked the clothes. There’s another one of Karen Mulder talking about how she loves putting on the brand’s dresses, because they just make her look good. That whole energy is very much about real girls. Whoever wants to wear Hervé, wants to look great and just have a good time. How are you retooling the brand? I’m excited to see how we can make Hervé Léger more than just bandage dresses. What does it look like to wear Hervé to the office? How can we make it more of a lifestyle brand? I’ve updated techniques, yarns, and effects, which are more obvious things to do, but daywear is a big challenge that I enjoy and am working hard on. Eveningwear is easier, because there’s a strong identity. We’re picking up a lot of new buyers recently, which is great. You’re not doing a runway show this season. Do you want to do that eventually? We talked a lot about it. At some stage, it’d be relevant to do some kind of show. I think the dresses look so much better when they’re worn, because they’re all knitted. Also, we need to look at what’s going on in the industry right now, and how relevant classic runway shows are. Is it maybe more relevant to do something else, where the clothes are moving, but not walking up and down? You also have your own brand, Aknvas. In a way, Hervé is my party girl, and Aknvas is my work girl. Aknvas is based on the girls I grew up with in my adult and professional life. Working for LVMH in Europe for years, I saw a lot of girls grow their careers and get responsibilities where you can’t just wear whatever. You need to look proper at work, but you need to show that you’re creative. Aknvas is really for a modern girl in 2020 and how she dresses for work, but also for evenings. It will be out in February or March on our website, in speciality stores, and from Rent the Runway. How do you differentiate your designs for each brand? I’m a social person—I’m out a lot—and when I design, I think about the girl I’m designing for. If it’s Aknvas, this girl is going to work. She’s not going to make it home after the office; she’s running straight to a restaurant downtown. The new Hervé girl is a modern woman who wants to look feminine and sexy but doesn’t want to look vulgar. As a social butterfly, where do you go out in New York? Honestly, something I’ve brought from my European background is going to people’s houses! I like private parties. If I go out to dinner for the scene, I love to go to Indochine for the food. I like to go to Babs, too. And I went to Veronika the other day, which has great food. Are you loving your current situation? To be honest, the challenge at the moment is a little bigger than I expected. I try to stay kind and positive, but the way I survive is by having great teams on both [brands]. I always say, “You’re never stronger than your team.”

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Blues

heritage

Jean

Genie

By ARIA DARCELLA

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Last year, Betty Madden took on the role of vice president, global head of design at Lee . Her biggest victory to date? Marrying the denim brand’s storied past while looking ahead to the future. It’s not often one finds seeds of progress and sustainable ideas from the archives of a century-old company, but Madden seems to have a gift for spotting existing themes that modern customers are hungry for. She dishes to The Daily about exploring Lee’s archives, and why you should hold on to denim.

What was your personal first experience or introduction to Lee? I grew up in the ’80s and ’90s. For me, Lee was the brand to wear. I remember having a Lee jacket that I bleached. I had another Lee jacket that I dyed. I had pleated jeans. I remember wearing Lee jeans only when I was in high school. For me, it’s interesting that Lee got so quiet for a while. When I was called for this particular job, when the recruiter said to me, “Lee,” I got an instant emotion, an instant nostalgia. Like, wow, I had forgotten that I love that brand and I loved everything about it. For me, it’s really falling back in love with it again, more so than my first serious experience with it. You’ve held jobs at Nike and Victoria’s Secret. How have those experiences helped you work with denim? I spent 12 years at Abercrombie overseeing and developing denim, so I have a pretty vast experience in denim. But then post Abercrombie, I’ve had such a

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“Innovation for us right now is through sustainability. There’s a huge push in terms of making denim a much cleaner product that’s better for the world.”

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Some of Lee’s chic new styles, offering modern twists on heritage designs.

diverse background. The sport and lingerie fields are, in a way, as unique as denim. It’s all about innovating the comfort factor. It really has to perform. At Nike, you’re designing for “zero distraction.” In lingerie, development for comfort is consumer focused. I take a little bit from everywhere that I’ve been. Experience in general applies in different ways wherever you go. You’ve been global VP for about a year now. What’s it been like? It’s been wild. Right when I was hired, we were moving the brand from Kansas City, where it was born and lived for 130 years, to Greensboro, North Carolina. So that was a big shift. And then in addition to that, we were going into Fall ’20 and setting up a design organization. There was a lot happening last year. But despite all that, I think we made huge progress with our product and our marketing strategies and people, and there were a lot of great things that happened last year. Was it daunting to join the brand as it was celebrating its 130th anniversary? No. That wasn’t daunting to me at all because it’s something so exciting, interesting, and unique for a brand to be that old and have such a rich, beautiful history. It was actually exciting to be here during that moment. Tell us about going through Lee’s archives. What did you discover? We have an archivist who is museum trained. This is going to sound cliché, but when I went into the archive in Kansas City, I almost started to cry because it was so beautifully maintained. It was cataloged down to every

scrap of paper, every receipt, every order book, every decade. We had H.D. Lee’s shirt, his desk.… It’s emotional to look at the parallels in terms of how marketing was approached back in the day. When you look at how we participate in trends from way back to the ’60s, ’70s, ’80s, and even the 90s, there’s just so much there. We outfitted cowboys. We outfitted women who were doing things before it was cool for women to do it. We were outfitting the military, railroad service men—anything and everything that eventually is on trend and goes down the runway is part of our story. Lee has reissued several archival styles. Did you update or modernize them? The only styles made exactly the way they were are the all-purpose [female] jean, the Lady Lee, and the Frontier. Those were replicated down to the fabric construction, the details, the fit. The modifications were minimal. But typically when we dip into the archive, we will make sure that it’s a current fit, and it’s comfortable. People’s bodies have changed. We definitely modernize. We don’t want to be just a reissue brand, but we definitely want to use our reissue pieces as a celebration of the past and a way to incubate things that may be relevant now. Why do you think people are so attracted to vintage styles these days? I have a 12- and a 16-year-old. When I see their reality, they live almost a digital life. I think that’s the reason CocaCola, French fries, old jeans—things that feel warm and cozy and nostalgic—feel really unique right now. Brands

that feel grounded, creative, and handmade, like a real human connection, feel special. That’s where Lee has a real edge. There’s nothing fake or made up about our brand. People are hungry for that because it seems unique. How do you feel about jeggings? I can actually remember the first time at Abercrombie they showed us jeggings. Our mouths dropped. We were like, what the hell is that? But I remember thinking, this is going to be something, because it just made sense at the time. We think people were abandoning jeans to wear athleisure, and it was really that people were abandoning sweatpants to look sharper in their lazy pants. It was an innovation at the time to solve the last business to that industry. Now, because jeans have gotten so comfortable and we have technologies where they’re cooling and they stretch, they’re comfortable, we’ve come to a crossroads. Skinny jeans are downtrending, so jeggings feel tired right now. But I don’t think that means that they’re going to go away. They’ll come back around. Are there any denim trends you regret partaking in? I wore some pretty low-rise flare jeans back in the Britney [Spears] days. But I don’t think denim is a throwaway. Eventually, it all comes back around. Who knows, a couple years from now you might see me in a low-rise pair! Is it difficult to innovate in the world of denim? How do you keep pushing things forward? Innovation for us right now is through sustainability. There’s a huge push in terms of making denim a much cleaner product that’s better for the world. [We also have] technologies, and how we make fabrics to perform for people, whether they keep you cool or fit you better. We design through 3-D, which can map different body shapes and sizes and make sure that we’re making products that fit in a totally new way. Lasting innovation is something that you can get your teeth into, and it’ll last for a long time. It’s something iterative that you can build on. Why is sustainability important to you? Not only are we experiencing crazy weather patterns and stuff going on, it’s scary for someone who has children and someone who thinks about the future. I don’t want to participate in anything that’s making that worse. When you think about the world of denim, there’s a lot that goes into it. Even in the early days, indigo is hard to sew. There’s a lot of cleaning up that’s been done over the years. I would love to be part of eliminating the things that are used in denim that aren’t great to the planet. I’m also really passionate about consumption. Denim isn’t something you throw away. There’s something endearing and sustainable about the simplicity of that. If we can make jeans in a clean and healthy way, and it’s something that people hang on to and gets more beautiful with age— there’s a simplicity and sustainability to that. What do you think the future of denim holds? We’ll continue to build on something that is timeless and effortless. It’s the most unifying, democratic piece of clothing the world wears. I think the future of denim is that it’ll always be here.

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Blues

heritage

Decades of

Denim

Lee boasts an impressive 130-year history. Their recipe for genius jeans? Being slightly ahead of the game, always evolving, and earning their way into America’s heart. Here’s the scoop on Lee’s evolution from humble overall brand to denim powerhouse.

1920s & 1930s

Henry David Lee and four partners founded The H.D. Lee Mercantile Company in 1889. But interestingly, it initially had nothing to do with denim. It was founded as a dry goods and grocery store. Ten years later, the company had become somewhat of an everything store, selling a variety of goods via catalog. But by 1912, looking to capitalize on the burgeoning need for denim workwear, the company opened its first clothing factory. It soon became the brand’s entire focus, and just one year later it introduced its iconic Union-Alls.

After several years of production expansion, Lee hit its creative and technological stride. The company began working with cowboys and rodeo riders in an effort to make a pair of jeans that could withstand their needs. Thus, the Lee Cowboy Pants (later renamed Lee Riders) were born. The decade ended with a different advancement— zippers! The dedication to quality, durability, and ease of wear helped build the company’s reputation as a go-to for workers.

1940s & 1950s In 1946, Lee introduced its now-iconic “twitch” leather label, a version of which is still used on its jeans today. A year later, the company saw another major introduction—the Lady Lee Riders. The denim style featured all the same durability as the original Riders, but cut in a way to better fit women’s bodies. At the same time, celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and James Dean started rocking the brand on set and onscreen. Lee didn’t quite know it yet, but it was ahead of the curve on a massive shift in how denim would be perceived for everyday wear.

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the early days

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Futuristic

1960s & 1970s

Blues

Thanks to pop culture shifts, denim had become acceptable everyday clothing, not just workwear. So Lee focused its innovations on fashion. The brand began introducing tighter silhouettes, bellbottoms, and denim with decorative embroidery, all aimed at college students. In 1972, it even introduced the “Leesure” Suit, a business casual pant-and-jacket set.

Always keen to usher in innovation, Lee is turning its attention to sustainability, and making its iconic denim more eco-friendly. Here’s how they’re doing it. Outlining Areas of Change

1980s & 1990s Now equally appreciated for both function and fashion, Lee began to turn its attention to further expanding its reach. In 1993, it created Riders, a mass-market line available at big box retailers. And just three years later, it introduced e-commerce to its website, making it easily accessible to fans.

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today As denim trends shifted in the new millennium, Lee found itself with a huge advantage—its own heritage. As vintage styles increasingly became fashionable, the brand was able to pull styles from its own archives, lending it an authenticity that other labels could only dream of.

Lee has just introduced “For a World That Works,” its first global sustainability platform, which outlines three major goals: to prioritize worker well-being globally; to pursue sustainable solutions with a focus on clean energy, and reducing and conserving water; and committing to innovating its designs and manufacturing to uphold the brand’s social and environmental values.

Creating More Sustainable Products This year, Lee has launched Indigood Denim, a new collection that eliminates water from the dyeing process. Traditional water vats and chemical baths have been replaced with a foam dye applicator. This not only removes water from the dyeing equation, but it also reduces the use of chemicals by 89 percent, and reduces the energy used by 60 percent. Meanwhile, the Back to Nature jean, available this spring, is compostable.

Setting Goals In addition to creating its own platform, Lee is collaborating with experts to create sustainability goals, which it will announce later this year. This builds on its partnership with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jean Redesign in 2019, which ultimately helped create guidelines to reduce production waste and establishing requirements for jean durability and recyclability.

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Luxury REport

Viva Italia AMA PURE

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Luciana Fazio, Founder/Designer

The Italian Trade Agency is bringing 60 of the chicest Italian brands to Coterie, New York’s premier trade show at the Javits Center from February 11-13. This season, Coterie overlaps with New York Fashion Week, giving fashion insiders an exclusive chance to see the best Italy has to offer. As the show gets closer, The Daily is giving you a legup on some of the must-know labels you can't miss.

How would you describe Ama Pure’s look? Sophisticated, refined, elegant, trendy, and original. It’s based on exceptional high quality—pure ultralight cashmere and super soft merino wool—for people who demand the best unique pieces. What was your first experience in the industry? I grew up among yarn cones and knitting machines. Is there anything new you’re introducing this season? Ultralight cashmere knitwear and cashmere slippers for both home and travel. Who are your role models in fashion? Brunello Cucinelli as a designer, and the way he uses nature and art as inspiration. What’s your favorite classic Italian movie? La Dolce Vita, by Federico Fellini. What’s on your list of things to see while you’re in New York? Ground Zero, Soho, and a Broadway musical. Outside of Italy, where is your brand sold? Europe, the Caribbean islands, the U.S., Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, Qatar, Kuwait, and Australia. Where do you hope to expand to next? Canada and South America. How will you spend your time on the plane to NYC? Watching movies. In your opinion, what Italian city should Americans visit? All Americans should come to Florence and Rome. I’d also suggest Milan, Venice, Verona, and Mantova. They are all different and all special for culture and history, and therefore for style.

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Luxury REport

BEBA GIOIELLI BIJOUX Beatrice Filippini, Owner/Designer

How would you describe your brand? It’s a small but unique jewelry and accessories brand. The concept of my jewels is to have two different-shaped metal sheets that are combined to give life to a 3-D jewel. I would say that my style is precise, clean, and elegant. The themes are fanciful and fun. Why did you want to work in fashion? I’ve always had an inclination for art. I studied at the Art Institute of Florence, and after some years of practice I opened my goldsmith’s workshop. But over the years I felt the need to create something new and to work with other metals. That’s how Beba was born. What designers do you look up to? Coco Chanel. She was a strong, independent woman with a lot of talent, who was really innovative for the time. Sometimes I feel like her. My jewels are unusual and new in the eyes of many people, who are not used to seeing these designs. How would you describe your role? I was born as a craftsman, and I’ve always wanted to respect my past. My attention to detail comes from my experience as a goldsmith. A craftsman is someone who takes care in every aspect of the object, from the idea to the finished product. I’m the owner of my brand, but I also take care of the technical and creative parts. I start from an idea, develop it, and realize it. Are you a film fan? I love the great classics of cinema. I have a collection dedicated to them—the Coups de Cinéma. Each piece represents a scene of many of my favorite films —Roman Holiday, La Dolce Vita, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

What’s on your list of things to do and see while you’re in New York? I want to explore the city and see as many things as I can! I’ll go to Times Square, the Statue of Liberty, the Brooklyn Bridge, the top of the Empire State Building, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art! How do you fare on long flights? I love flying. It’s one of the few moments when my phone is off and I can relax. However, as a creative person even in my free moments I think about my new collections. I create, I draw. What’s your favorite Italian city? Florence will always be in my heart! It’s small but rich in art, culture, architecture, and food. This city leaves you breathless. Also, it’s the only city that has a Beba flagship store!

SUPREMA

Alberto Vanuzzo, Marketing Manager Tell us about your brand’s aesthetic! Suprema is a brand focused on luxury outerwear. The contemporary design is linked with our expert craftsmanship, creating luxury garments that are also easy to wear. What is Suprema known for? Our collection ranges from leather to cashmere and shearling coats. Our signature is reversibility. It’s a feature of almost all Suprema pieces. Are there any new categories you’re introducing this season? This is the first season of SUPREMA UOMO, our first menswear collection, launching in Fall 2020. Where can we find Suprema? Suprema has a worldwide distribution in high-level multibrand stores all over the world. Where do you hope to expand to next? Asia and the Middle East.

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LAFABBRI

Lisaurora Fabrizi, Creative Director/Owner How would you describe your aesthetic? Dreamy. Every time I start to design a new collection I try to imagine why people need my bags—their special moments. What’s your top item? The Morgana bag is our best-selling piece and most valuable bag. We need a lot of hours to make it. It is totally handcrafted. How did you launch your career? Actually, it was casual. I entered a fashion contest and won. That was the beginning of everything. Is your brand eco-friendly? Yes. We try to be sustainable by creating a 100 percent sustainable bag. The exterior is made with a textile that comes from maize, and all the details, like leather and padding, are recycled. What is a quote you live by?

“Fashion fades, style is eternal”—Yves Saint Laurent; and “I don’t design clothes. I design dreams”—Ralph Lauren. I totally try to follow these two rules every time I create something. Are there any celebrities whose style you love? One of my favorites of the moment is Margot Robbie. I find her style interesting, along with Zendaya. I also love Margherita Buy and Vittoria Puccini. How would you describe Italian fashion or style? Italian style is about elegance and quality. What do you love about New York? I always love to get lost in Central Park and to walk around without a real plan, just to try to understand what people are like. And visit a museum, of course. Have any book recommendations? The last book I read is André Aciman’s Find Me.

ROBERTA GANDOLFI

Silvia Gandolfi, President/Co-owner

PAS DE ROUGE

Stefano Zampieri, Co-owner What is your brand’s mission? The most important thing for us is to match the design with comfort, and to address the various occasions of modern women. Design without functionality is useless. We want to design objects that fit and that carry women in their everyday life. What drives you, creatively? We get inspiration mostly from the past, trying to give our creations a sort of “French allure,” even if we are 100 percent Italian. Also, our past and our Italian story and culture are important. Especially what we can take from the long history of our beautiful city, Venice! We try to incorporate past and present trends into one. Tell us about the history of your brand! My grandfather opened the company’s first men’s shoe factory after World War II. My father and my uncles worked in it since they were children. In the ’80s, my father opened a second factory for women’s

shoes, and here we are. Our area is known as one of the best for shoemaking. Since the Republic of Venice, we have a long story of shoe manufacturing, and now almost all the best high-end brands have a factory or they produce part of their products here. What goes into making a Pas de Rouge shoe? An original ensemble where the elements of classic shoemaking coexist with the latest generation of high-tech materials. After being carefully cut and perfectly shaped, the lining and the insole are sewn one by one, to create a sack. As when making a tailormade suit, the different layers are stretched and accompanied during the whole sewing phase. This results in a flexible architecture that underlines the hides’ natural qualities of softness and resistance. This is the secret of our fit, which supports and welcomes the foot, step after step. What’s your favorite Italian film? I love Mediterraneo, by Gabriele Salvatores.

What sets your brand apart? Our style is feminine and elegant. Each of our creations has a strong personality and great appeal. What is your signature piece? Last season’s capsule, named “La Boule,” is our brand’s signature. It’s born to break away from the rigor of accessories. Its distinctive feature is a string of spheres, giving life to jeweled handless. How long have you been in business? We are the third generation. The passion, determination, style, and art of making quality bags was passed from our grandmother to our mother, and then to us. What inspires you? Regular people, nature, sensations, and especially our customers. What sets Italian style apart? Fashion in recent years has been uniform in the world in terms of taste. Italian style is certainly the most recognizable for materials, colors, style, and manufacturing. How do you entertain yourself when traveling? I usually read a book, listen to music, and watch some movies. Tell us about your home city, Bologna. It’s a beautiful medieval city with ancient towers, including the famous Two Towers, Asinelli and Garisenda. It hosts the oldest university in the world, has more than 23 miles of unique arcades, and has the sanctuary of San Luca overlooking the city. There are also many churches, ancient historic buildings, Piazza Maggiore, the Fountain of Neptune, the stock exchange room with archaeological excavations, and the window of Via Piella, which overlooks the canal of the mills. And then there is the Bolognese nightlife with a lot of clubs, restaurants, wine bars, and more. Bolognese cuisine is the best. FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M

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Luxury REport

DE SANTIS by MARTIN ALVAREZ

Carmine De Santis and Bladimir Martin Alvarez, Designers How important is quality to your brand? Each garment is guaranteed to be entirely made in Italy using the best fabrics and the best craftsman in order to offer a superior quality product, starting from the carefully selected raw materials, respecting the traditions of Italian high tailoring. What’s new this season? The launch of the deconstructed evening gown, and our Fall 2019 collection with an anti-waste concept at its core. Dresses and outerwear are made with a draping technique that uses only one piece of fabric, without the normal waste that comes from cutting. Cool! What are the dresses made of? Swishy silk, cady, fine Tasmanian wool, waterproof and performance fabrics. They all create evening gowns with thin straps, rich caftans, elegant kimonos, and cape coats. Perfect for a gala, as well as for daytime, thanks to clever zips. Sum up your aesthetic for us. A contemporary idea of femininity, with timeless class. How would you describe Italian fashion? Sophisticated and contemporary with a careful use of tailoring. How would you describe Italian craftsmanship? Our sartorial artistry combines the modern review of classic with unconventional interpretations, leading to unexpected forms. Outside of Italy, where is your brand sold? China, Russia, and the Middle East.

TWINSET

Maria Teresa Caracciolo, PR Specialist How would you describe Twinset’s customer? A contemporary woman with a bohemian and new romantic style, and a dynamic and feminine soul. We create clothes for women who want to be different and who love beautiful things. We believe the fabulous complexity of a woman must be celebrated, not hidden. We want to provide a second skin of trust for every moment of daily life. How does the team accomplish this? We work in a democratic way, creating fashion collections with modern clothes in line with trends and with comfortable fits, accessible for every woman. Outside of Italy, what fashion scene are you interested in? I believe that Great Britain has been an important source of inspiration with big photographers, models, stylists, and publishers who have become famous in the United States and around the world. How would you describe Italian style? It has always stood out for quality, research, culture, and harmony. For this reason, we have always managed to stand out all over the world. Are you a film buff? My favorites are the Oscar-winning movies of Vittorio De Sica. What restaurant do you want to hit up while you’re in the Big Apple? Grand Central Oyster Bar. What Italian cities should Americans visit? Rome for history, Venice for its uniqueness, Bologna for food, Genoa and Napoli for perfumes and colors, and of course Milan for fashion!

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Style Hong Kong’s imports

New Wave Fashion Hong Kong is once again giving New York Fashion Week attendees a chance to catch a live show from talented HK designers. On Thursday, February 6th, three labels—Lary Cheung and Yi Chan of Heaven Please+, Harrison Wong, and Sun Lam of Sun=Sen—will present their work at Spring Studios. Later that evening, the group will celebrate their show with an exclusive after-party at Mr. Purple, on the Lower East Side. The Daily caught up with the group ahead of their big day at NYFW.

(From left) Lary Cheung and Yi Chan

Building Blocks: “Yi Chan and I studied fashion in university, and that’s part of the reason we chose to work in the industry. Before getting into fashion, we both worked for magazines for a while. It compelled us to design our own clothes when we found it difficult to find the pieces we wanted in the market. That’s why we decided to develop our own brand and started designing something different.” Pop Culture Encouragement: “For Yi Chan, design inspirations mainly come from texts, books, movies, and music. For me, it’s quite similar. My inspirations come from music, movies, and stories. And sometimes it’s not a story that inspires a collection, but through a collection we tell people a story. I remember in one of our 2016

collections, our designs were inspired by the Chinese writer Liu Yichang. His book Tête-bêche is the story of how two youngsters meet each other because of a slight mistake in the war.” Aesthetic Evolution: “In general, previous collections were more futuristic and girlish. We would still describe this season as girlish, but it’s somehow more glamorous, with more floral prints. It’s like integrating the elements of a palace into our design.” Manhattan Itinerary: “One place I want to revisit in New York is the Soho bookstore McNally Jackson. It’s a famous bookstore, and it also has a history that attracts me a lot. It’s not just commercial, but a place that gathers people together to chit-chat and exchange ideas.”

all images courtesy

HEAVEN PLEASE+ Lary Cheung explains all

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Harrison Wong

HARRISON WONG Harrison Wong shares his design inspirations Aesthetic Inclinations: “Every collection is quite different and unique. But if I’m asked to describe my work, it would be contemporary with understated elegance. In my recent collection, the aesthetic leans more toward workwear. But in the past, it has been more like sportswear.” Art Enthusiast: “My design inspirations mainly come from artwork. And there’s not one fixed channel of how I get my inspirations. Sometimes I get them when I visit galleries, museums, or other settings and occasions. My Fall 2018 collection, which I presented at New York Fashion Week, was inspired by my visits to cathedrals and the clergy gowns I saw.”

Business Prowess: “The better-selling pieces are those that strike a balance between being design-oriented, while still catering to commercial needs. Different buyers will have different preferences. Some may prefer basics and some may have a certain style they want to look for. Personally, I’d like to make my work well-balanced with both design and commercial elements.” Favorite Fashion Capital: “Paris is a main destination for me because Paris Fashion Week attracts buyers from all over the world. In terms of other places, for now I don’t really have a preference to explore. I focus more on better understanding the buyers’ tastes.”

Sun Lam

SUN=SEN Sun Lam breaks down her fashion message

all images courtesy

Mission Statement: “There’s a general concept that ‘fashion’ equals ‘high fashion,’ which distances average people. Through my designs, I want to convey the message that fashion can bring people together. I want to spread positive messages through my brand concept, especially with the use of playful elements, like interesting silhouettes in my designs. My style in general is full of energy, warmth, interest, and is playful, too.” Fresh Perspective: “Streetwear is generally perceived as more for men, and is usually presented with some rather angry or negative emotions. Therefore, I want to design streetwear through a woman’s angle to explore the possibility of unisex streetwear.” Crowdsourced Inspo: “If I discover interesting ideas from conversations, I will translate them into my design through playful elements. I remember when I was doing my first collection, I interviewed people of different races

and ages on the street with the question, ‘What is your life equation?’ I asked people who passed by to draw their answers on a piece of canvas. That became the inspiration for my first collection! I really like to take inspiration from people’s relationships. There’s so much to explore. My mind alone can never be as broad as all minds combined. People’s ideas are always positive additions to my design.” Expansion Goals: “I’m quite interested in the European market. Specifically, countries like Germany and France. Japan is also a destination I’d like to explore.” Partnership Plans: “I’d like to collaborate with an athlete or a comedian because these people always bring energy to us and have a positive influence on society. This is close to my brand concept, and I believe they can inspire me to design pieces that are interesting and reflective of what positivity means in the world.”

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Act

two

Maye

Day

At age 71, Maye Musk was a little late to attain “It Girl” status, but she doesn’t care. The IMG model and mother of Elon has taken her lifetime of ups and downs to the page with the release of her recent advice book, A Woman Makes a Plan. The Daily took this ultra-confident optimist to lunch at Sant Ambroeus to dish about how she survived an abusive marriage, and why she thinks people are clamoring to hear her tale. By EDDIE ROCHE

are.” Then she said, “I just booked this appointment with this literary agent. You’re going to meet with her.” Then, we had appointments with six publishers in a week. We met them all, and got an offer we couldn’t refuse within two days. Did you have a manuscript? No. I was just talking. They wanted my stories from being young to where I am now, so I recorded my stories, which got transcribed. I said to my editor at Viking, “You should take out some of those stories, they’re pretty rough and I’m not a negative person. I don’t like negative situations. I never talk like that. I’m just a happy person who has a blessed life.” She said, “No. They stay in.” I said, “No, I don’t want people to feel sad for me and think I had a miserable life.” She said, “You had a pretty miserable life.” But you never looked at it that way. At the time I was in hell. I was in a lot of hellish situations.

Then we told the kids about [my book], before we even did the manuscript. They said, “Make sure it’s about your struggles.” I said, “Okay, let’s call it Struggles and Survival,” but [my children] didn’t like that title because it’s not positive enough. I put my struggles in, I was uncomfortable with that, but now they’re in. People are relating to when you’re in a bad situation and need to make a plan. That’s where [the title] A Woman Makes a Plan comes from. The stories I’m hearing on DMs on Instagram, there’s a lot of people struggling—they’re in a bad relationship, it’s not going well at work, they’re in the middle of a lawsuit or custody battle. Workwise or familywise, they’re unhappy; or they’re really scared of aging. That’s big. This [book] gives them confidence again. I think aging is great! Look at me! What was the hardest thing to write about? An abusive marriage. It was nine years of my life, and then 11 years of court cases where [ex-husband Errol Musk]

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Was writing a book like this always on your agenda? No. I did write a book about nutrition and fitness in 1996 because a publisher asked me to, and I believe it’s an honor when a publisher asks you to write a book. I did some appearances on self-esteem. That’s why Kellogg’s put me on a cereal box. I was the first dietitian to be on a cereal box. Dietitian was my main job, and I modeled part-time. I never told people I was a model. Sometimes they would say, “I saw you in a Sears catalog,” or “I saw you on a billboard,” but I never told them. It takes the seriousness away from counseling patients. That book sold, and I moved to the States from Canada. So what led to penning your second book, more than two decades later? Everywhere I would go with my publicist, and on Instagram and Twitter, people would say, “Oh, my God, Maye, you have such great advice! You should write a book!” I said, “Look, I’m quite happy with how things

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sued me for custody of the kids. My mom would always go with me to court; I couldn’t afford a lawyer. Of course, I would always win the cases, because I’m not abusing my children and I’m not starving them. But they wouldn’t stop; a week later, I would get another subpoena. That was really hard. Eventually when I could afford it, I got a lawyer who said, “We’ll get you custody.” I would say, “I don’t want custody. I want you to stop him from suing me.” I went though many arrogant lawyers who wouldn’t even ask. “Oh, you got custody, you won,” they’d say, I said, “I didn’t win because you didn’t even ask the judge to stop him suing me.” He says, “Oh, he’ll never sue you again. He lost.” A week later, I’d have another subpoena. It was 11 years of that. You were clearly dealt a lot of blows, yet kept a positive attitude. Well, I had to survive. I have three great kids. We were healthy. It’s a big advantage if you’re healthy and educated. What did your kids think of the finished book? Kimbal thought it was great. He thinks it’s going to change people’s lives. Tosca says, “I’m shooting a movie. I don’t have time yet to read it, but I know it’s going to be good.” Elon just said, “Well, as long as there’s your struggles in it, I’m fine with it, and Kimbal says it’s okay.” He launched a rocket last night and he’s in China today. I think Elon’s friends are loving it, so he’s going to enjoy it. Do you often get asked if you drive a Tesla? Yeah, a lot. Of course I drive a Tesla! Now, they’re asking if I’m going to drive the Cybertruck. Probably not. What aspects of your life did you love writing about most? I love the nutrition and health parts. Of course, that doesn’t sell as well as sadness, unfortunately. People really love my animal stories about my adventures in the Kalahari Desert, and my parents’ adventures—to me, that was just normal, but it wasn’t really normal. I like being an entrepreneur, having my own business, and sharing with people who want to start their own business. The family part, too—I was fortunate with my kids and my 11

“Men are not so afraid of aging; they’re not scared of losing their jobs because they’re aging. Women are scared about that. That’s got to stop.” grandkids. I feel lucky. I think people find it funny that I’ve had bad luck in dating. Every time I do a shoot with other models, besides nutrition, they always ask about dating. We love that you drink Diet Coke, as you mention in your book. I love my Diet Coke. A lot of dietitians aren’t fans! Not dietitians…a lot of “Internet nutritionists” would be anti-Diet Coke, because they don’t read the research, which says that if you drink 200 Diet Cokes a day, it could be harmful. Anything in excess is a problem. If you drink too much water, you will die; if you eat fish three times a day, you could get mercury poisoning. I had the hardest time getting people to eat fish three times a week. I eat bread; people are surprised. I follow science, and I’m careful with my food habits—most of the time. Why do you think people are so interested in hearing a 71-yearold’s story? I think they’re scared of aging. Aging is great. I really love it. Men are not so afraid of aging; they’re not scared of losing their jobs because they’re aging. Women are scared about that. That’s got to stop. Men have to appreciate women who are intelligent and hard-working. Women have to help one another, which is a good start, but men have to help women. You shouldn’t be promoting someone because he’s a man if there’s a competent woman. When you walked Christian Siriano’s show last season, you told us that designers should hire more older women. They should! People are loving it. An aspiring older model

asked me today if it’s slower for the age group. It goes in waves. On the beauty front, it never slows down. That’s major. The beauty industry has got it a bit more down pat than the fashion industry. When modeling slows down, I get busy with my dietitian work, and I do a lot of speaking engagements worldwide. Is that what brought you to China recently? They wanted me to talk about older women having their own businesses, being successful and relevant, looking stylish, and sharing wisdom. We did a press junket, and had dinner with 2,000 women from ages of 18 to 25, in the most magnificently decorated ballroom. I’m at the point where my story is so relevant to different women culturally. Things are changing for women. I’m excited because I’m going to countries like South Africa and Germany, where women don’t have opportunities like in America. It’s very different. These women are inspired by hearing about me, my situation, and tough things I was facing. That’s the goal for 2020, to tell my story so culturally it can disrupt how women are thinking in other countries; 50 percent of CEOs should be women and 50 percent of presidents should be women and we could have a kinder world. Barack Obama said something similar recently. Yes. He said 100 percent, I think. Obama follows me on Twitter. How did he find you? Who knows!

Musk is a girl on the town these days!

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Chic

Lessons

Open

Book

Caroline de Maigret is back with her second book, Older, But Better, But Older, and this time, she’s tackling how she truly feels about the aging process. The impossibly chic Parisian sat down with The Daily for a candid conversation about her love/hate relationship with Father Time.

How did you come up with the title? I’m in a process where I’m trying to understand all the new surprises that come with aging, and to live with them, digest them, and be okay with them. I really enjoy where I am right now in my mind. I love the serenity that knowledge gives me. I love the work that I did on myself to understand my past better and to live with it. But [the word] “older” [in the book title] is that it’s better [to be older], yet you’re older, and that might not be what you wanted. You have no choice. It is a bitter moment to understand that you are not part of the youth club anymore. It’s a weird moment. I’m still that person in my mind, but my body is showing differently. Suddenly, people start to call you madame, and some men that would have looked at you before, don’t. I’m still being flirted with. It’s weird when things change, and it’s not you changing them. Society and women’s magazines have had a tendency to push you into the idea that it’s only better and amazing to age. But it’s strange because I don’t think it’s so cool. I love what’s happening in my head, but I don’t think it’s that cool, which is why I wanted to write this book. I know that whatever I’m feeling, some others are feeling the same way. I know how good it feels when you read lines [in a book], recognize yourself in those lines, and know you’re not alone. What was it like having to confront this every day when writing the book? It resulted in a midlife crisis. Anxiety attacks. Trying to leave my man because I thought it was the last moments of me being sexy so I needed to have lots of affairs or whatever. You think it’s the last time being a kid, which is ridiculous. I always thought “midlife crisis” was a man thing. That’s when you realize that all those novels from French literature, especially from the 19th century, where you have women longing for a lover are just adjusting to a midlife crisis. For me, it lasted for a good 10 months. I took a break when I was writing. You just stopped? It was too intense. I’m much more alive now. I love where I am now. It was an intense path to go through, but I like the result.

How did you get through the journey of writing this book? First, I had the chance to be in a relationship with a man who’s extremely smart and understanding. He knows me. He felt secure enough to feel it was a storm he was going to go through. He waited without saying anything, which was a big help. Being a mother also helped me. You still have to be on your feet to take [your children] to school; to be there and listen. I think part of my midlife crisis was my son became a teenager, and unconsciously I realized he was okay and I could leave home. He doesn’t need me so much anymore. All those crazy thoughts that go through your mind. I started doing sports as well. I swam, and I walked everywhere in Paris. I put half a day in the week where I didn’t work, which was a great luxury. I put away my phone for a few hours at night. Do you have trouble looking at younger women? No. I don’t have that. In the book, I write that before, you would find some women dumb, but now you understand that they’re just young. There’s actually something quite caring about young women. I find them cute. How old are you? I’m 44. I usually age myself even more, so people say, “You’re amazing for 47!” You seem to have a great sense of humor. How has that helped you deal with aging? To be self-deprecating is the most important thing. As long as you have humor, you’re okay in life. It’s part of the whole process. When you are able to laugh at yourself and your neuroses, it makes them less important. It’s a good armor, because it avoids other people talking about you or talking behind your back. We understand that you don’t like cosmetic surgery. It’s not that I don’t like it. I think it’s amazing. I’m just scared. I wish I had the balls to do it.

What are you scared of? I’m scared to change. I want to stop time; I would love to look 10 years younger, but I don’t want to look different. I think we’re not all equal when aging. On some people, fillers look amazing and on some, it changes their face completely. I’m expecting the magical wand to bring back the younger version of me. I don’t want new shapes on my face. How do you approach beauty and eating well? I’m obsessed with food, and that’s growing with age. I suddenly have lots of chef friends. I do kobido, a Japanese art that is a natural lifting massage for your face, but also works with your energies. It really makes you feel good on the inside. Do you talk to your girlfriends about aging? I was given the keys of aging as a much older women. You hear about menopause and white hair, but you’re never ready for the first white pubic hair. We do laugh about the little details and we share. Even sexually, you realize how cool it is to have a relaxed mind. You understand you can be the worst or the best for someone, and they will be the same for you. It’s not a contest. You lose this pressure of youth that can be a bit hard, of always trying to be the best. You know your pleasure, and you know how to get it. This is the stuff we share together. What are you looking forward to in your life? [French New Wave director and photographer] Agnès Varda, who died [in March 2019], was a great friend of mine. She was older. Never was age nor being a women an excuse not to do anything. It was an incredible inspiration to me, and I feel the same way. Nothing can stop my ideas and creativity. I just started directing; I’ve done lots of videos for Chanel and for the Tate Modern. Now, I’m writing my first short movie. I have a big life ahead!

BFA.com (1); getty images (1)

By EDDIE ROCHE

F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

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AN EYE ON FASHION CONTENT PRODUCTION & AMPLIFICATION

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STUDIES DYNAMIC BICOASTAL DUO

Beca

vs. Becca

At top agency Socialyte, founder Beca (Alexander) helms the NYC HQ, while Becca (Bahrke) leads the L.A. team. The Bec(c)as get real about the differences between both coasts. How did Becca, and a West Coast office, enter the picture? Becca Bahrke: I started my career at Shopbop and DL1961, and fell in love with booking talent for photo shoots, then went to The Wall Group/IMG. I wanted projects like redcarpet season and brand partnership deals all the time, so I researched the influencer world, and found Socialyte. Beca Alexander: When Becca came in to interview, I thought, “I can’t hire another Rebecca. It’s going to be way too confusing.” But she had such positive energy and drive, I could tell she was motivated. I wasn’t going to let our names stand in her way. I’ve always known we’d need a West Coast presence. A few years ago, we finally took the leap. Becca was our second hire; she now has a team of 14 in our L.A. office.

BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV

How did you each land on your respective name spellings? Alexander: When I first moved to NYC for school, I decided I needed a fully new identity to go with my new self that I was planning on discovering. My Hebrew name is Rebecca, and my middle name is Alexander, my father’s first name. I won’t reveal my “real” name back then, as it’s long gone, but I started using Rebecca Alexander and it just stuck; I legally changed it two years later. I needed an e-mail address, domain, and Facebook account to solidify my identity. Rebecca Alexander was quite common, so I tried all possible nicknames and spellings—Becca, Becky, Becka, Becki. Bahrke: I’ve gone by Becca my whole life. I didn’t even know my legal name was Rebecca until sometime in grade school. We definitely get a lot of people who mix up or misspell our names! We take that into consideration when interviewing prospective employees or talent. How does the influencer scene differ between NYC and L.A.? Bahrke: NYC events have a much better influencer turn out, because people there are more likely to do something on a weeknight; I feel like we’re homebodies in L.A. Simply how big L.A. is, is an issue because if a brand is hosting an event in Venice, an influencer is likely to consider going only if an Uber code is provided, they’re working for the brand, or they’re dying to make a connection. If you have the wrong location for your event in L.A., it can ruin all the work you put toward it. There are also vast differences in the types of talent—a lot of L.A. fashion bloggers are multifaceted, or started as models or actors.

power platform

Fohr

The People James Nord set out to better connect brands and influencers. The result? Fohr, a tech platform for influencer data and discovery. Nord’s company also runs novel campaigns, from the Sephora Squad to political work driving voters to polls. How did you create Fohr? I wanted to build a technology platform and company to flatten the playing field of influencers. A few agencies at the time represented the big influencers; every brand I talked to, no one seemed thrilled about working with them. There was a gatekeeper mentality of overcharging. Only a handful of people were given opportunities. I

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Beca Alexander (left) and Becca Bahrke

Any West Coast influencer trends that haven’t arrived in NYC yet? Bahrke: In L.A. there’s pressure to have the nicest car, the biggest house with most amazing amenities. Often, you’ll see L.A. talent will feature heavily on their pages. Think Kylie Jenner in front of her 10 Bentleys; that’s what a lot of L.A. talent aims for. Alexander: You know how everyone in NY has had a nose job? I’ve had two, so I’m not judging. In L.A., everyone has had everything else. The talent here are more physically “edited” as this is the mecca of cosmetic enhancements.

thought it could be about not who you knew, but what you did, content you created, connection with your audience, and how big your corner of the Internet was. The space could become more egalitarian and fair. We created technology that didn’t exist in the space, to prevent fraud and drive brands’ performance. There was no way to tell if an influencer bought followers before our Follower Help tool launched a few years ago. Do you often persuade brands to consider lesser-known talent? Yes, all the time. We just launched a strategy department because we’ve done so much of this. There’s a natural predilection to working with the people you follow. That often isn’t the right person or the best use of money. Are many of the influencers on Fohr without representation? Once you hit a certain following, a lot of influencers want an agent—there’s no way to avoid that. Our value is managing the prices that the agent is charging. We’ve come to a good place with a lot of the agencies; they know if they are more fair with us, the work will come more consistently. We work out a system, so we’re not getting the predatory pricing that agents kick around. We don’t make more money by charging more per influencer. We’re actually incentivized to find value for our clients, whereas agents are not.

getty images (1); all others courtesy

SOCIAL

Meet the influencers captivating us this season, and the behind-the-scenes talents orchestrating their success from all angles.

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How did you meet Chriselle Lim? We’ve known each other for about a decade through industry events, her, a successful up-and-coming blogger, and me, a model manager seeing if women like her could translate in the traditional model-brand-agency world. Four years ago, we decided to work together; it’s honestly been magic ever since. From the quality of her work to how she’s just the most graceful, professional, kind human being, Chriselle understands the business and has a fearless disposition about paving the way for the future. What goals drove you to launch your company in 2016? To ensure that no matter where anyone stood in the digital-marketing space, they’d have a safe haven to turn to for all their burning questions. My company has three exciting sectors: Realization Podcast, which

allows listeners to peek behind the iron curtain of the industry to discuss critical topics for success with trailblazing leaders. If someone is without a doubt ready to take the next step in their career and start generating serious income, I offer highly rated Online Business Kits for an affordable price. They allow influencers and entrepreneurs, micro and macro, to have a solid business game plan, and have an audio guide of me talking through key points. I genuinely want my customers to feel like I’m right there cheering them on, educating them about industry information normally kept hush-hush. How else do you foster influencers’ growth? I offer one-on-one strategic consulting. My clients have included Chriselle Lim, Alexandra Pereira, Brittany Xavier, Chopard, and Valentino. I love diving deep into each client’s business to positively launch them in the next exciting avenue of their career, which they may not even be aware of. This year, I’m launching an Online Masterclass. I can’t split myself into a zillion pieces to help everyone, so it’s an incredible platform for one-onone consulting. Any advice for those aspiring to a career like yours? Please work at an agency. Gain invaluable experience, ask questions, be curious, do the work, and don’t complain. Many individuals claim they’re managers or strategists, but have little to no experience. Although I fully support and fervently encourage young people conquering their dreams, I firmly advise them to take a step back. Think bigger-picture. This industry is so unthinkably small; we’re all connected. If you don’t make a good first impression, it’ll be that much more difficult to survive the cutthroat landscape.

I spoke to those brands, I’d mention this new type of model that clients could track sales ROI on. They started paying Rumi for shooting and posting. I applied model day rates to what Rumi was doing, because I knew how much money brands had, and what typical usages were. I just winged it! She started making money, sitting front row at shows in NYC and Paris, and shooting campaigns. Who did you work with next? Chiara Ferragni from The Blonde Salad came to me. I booked her for fashion projects and magazine covers, which led to capsule collections and campaigns. Then the flood gates opened: Kristina Bazan from Switzerland, Gala Gonzales from Spain, Danielle Bernstein from NYC, and Sincerely Jules from L.A., all of the first fashion bloggers. It was wild. I stopped booking models altogether to be able to just focus on them and really understand the landscape. I realized I really loved building brands with talent, so I started my own agency, Jennifer Powell Inc, or JPinc, in 2017. How do you help clients amass business acumen? I know my way around a contract, so I definitely help them with those. I also advise on business infrastructure: Do you have an attorney? Are you incorporated? Do you have, or need, a business manager, financial adviser, or wealth manager? Do you have contracts with photographers, who own the imagery? What negative changes have occurred in the influencer space over the past five years? Brands are trying to take more control of the content, talent, and shoot during campaigns than before. Initially, the influencer might have had too much control; now, the brand is micro-managing. There’s a happy medium. The brands that want to control the narrative, it’s

absolutely fine; however, I’d suggest just hiring a model. What mistakes do you wish burgeoning influencers would avoid? People quit their day jobs too early. You need to keep this as a side hustle until you cannot do your day job anymore. You don’t ever want to have to take brand jobs out of desperation; you want to be thoughtful about your brand association. Work your day job and invest in your influencer career, until you absolutely cannot do both.

TALENT COACH

Idalia’s

Big Ideas Former model-manager-turnedinfluencer-guru Idalia Salsamendi helped Chriselle Lim’s career really blow up a few years ago, and has since become a go-to for others on the path to social media success.

change agent

Bold

New Model

getty images (1); all others courtesy

A dozen years ago, seasoned model agent Jennifer Powell saw the vast, untapped potential of influencers, and worked with OGs like Fashion Toast and The Blonde Salad in their infancies. Now, she skillfully guides the big businesses of WeWoreWhat’s Danielle Bernstein, Tezza Barton, Happily Grey’s Mary Lawless Lee, Sincerely Jules, and more. How did you pivot from models to influencers? I was a model agent for more than 20 years, at Look in San Francisco and Next Models in L.A. When I was at Next in 2008, Rumi Neely was sent to me by a photographer; she had a “photo diary,” Fashion Toast. Brands were sending her clothes, asking her to shoot and post them, and link out to product; then the product was selling out! Rumi, being the brilliant lady she is, knew there was financial value to what she was doing. At Next, I booked models with a lot of the brands sending clothing to Rumi, so when

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EFFECT

follow along The secret to great #content? Follow these hacks from experts on both sides of the camera.

model behavior

CHARLOTTE D’ALESSIO Has modeling helped grow your social presence, and vice versa? Modeling has helped me grow socially because objectively, people seem to like to follow models. I honestly don’t know if it’s helped in a deeper sense; people either like my content, or they don’t. But there are certain modeling jobs I’ve definitely only been hired for based on my social media. I’d be crazy not to notice that. A lot of what you book now is because you have an audience to go with it. How can we look amazing in Instagram photos? Try facial expressions in the mirror, see what looks good, and repeat for the camera. My favorite photos include a dope outfit, a natural, easy feel, and no filter. What makes for an epic IG Story? Don’t try too hard. Just relax and take the damn Story! Don’t overthink it and watch it 10 times. It’s okay. What’s your go-to selfie location? My bedroom! I’m blessed with some amazing goldenhour lighting. Wherever the best lighting is in your house, chase it!

GARRETT SWANN Any pro tips for taking amazing IG photos? My background started in acting; it wasn’t about posing, but about being present. I often laugh at myself when smiling for photos, thinking how ridiculous it is. Lighting is key—look toward the light to reduce shadowing. Also, find your aesthetic, and be consistent with it. What are your biggest social media pet peeves? Selfies = selfishness. Using a self-timer is different, because I don’t always have a photographer handy. When I ask random strangers to take a photo, I have to direct them. They’re probably thinking, “What a control freak!” Love your IGTV series, Undercovers. What’re you working on next? I’m launching a men’s apparel brand with my friend, Tom Speight, former president of Calvin Klein Underwear and Jeans and 2XIST. I’m really gung ho about this venture.

BEHIND THE LENS wisdom

What makes a photo truly ’Gram-worthy? A main factor is the crop and framing. Instagram has completely shifted the way we view images. The 4:5 ratio now dominates, so I’m constantly aware of that when shooting. Also, social media images are viewed much quicker than traditional media, so it’s integral that there are “scroll stoppers” to keep people on an image longer. I always try to integrate a “wow factor” with interesting light, framing, location, or styling. How do you help influencers get comfortable during shoots? It’s about getting people to laugh, smile, and feel good about themselves. Genuine expressions shine through best! I give positive reinforcements or suggestions, instead of focusing on what they may be doing wrong. I’m never afraid to throw in a “Yasss!” to really get them to laugh and relax! In a studio, putting on music makes shoots more fun and livelier. But on location on the streets of Soho, I’ll break out into an unrequested, off-key song! Also, movement is key. Walking shots take the stress out of posing, and show how an outfit moves. What photo-editing tools do you swear by? I use a mix of Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop on my desktop for 95 percent of my photos—Lightroom for global edits and overall tones, and Photoshop for local, specific edits. On the go, I love A Color Story, VSCO, and Lightroom Mobile. Filters are an amazing tool when used appropriately.

Presley ann (1); getty images (1); william lords for jonathan cohen studio (1); david wagner (1); all others courtesy

ALLIE PROVOST

Carter fish How did you first get interested in photography? When I was around 8, I asked for my first Kodak camera to photograph my Lord of the Rings action figures—yeah, not what you expected, right? I’d photograph the figures sitting on my horse dolls, pretending it was a scene from the movie in plants we had all over our house. That’s where the love for “capturing moments” began. What’s your preferred type of lighting? I’m a natural lighting gal! I like to play with the sun, both back- and front-lit, and just use what’s given to me. I worked with studio lighting a lot in high school; it just wasn’t for me. How do you help influencers get comfortable during shoots? I talk to my client the entire time. I’m constantly fixing their posture and hair, and telling them to fix their face. And once I fix something and show them on the camera, they realize they can trust me to catch the little things, so they can focus on less! I’m not going to let you go an entire shoot with a hair on your forehead, I promise. What’s your biggest social media pet peeve? Hashtags! I appreciate accounts that’ve gotten big without posting 12 times a day, using 48 hashtags on every post.

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RETAIL gets social

chloe king

Presley ann (1); getty images (1); william lords for jonathan cohen studio (1); david wagner (1); all others courtesy

How did you land at Bergdorf Goodman, twice? My first job in NYC was with the Tibi PR office—a supporting role in a traditional PR sense. It was an amazing learning experience, watching every team in action making a collection come to life. As Instagram started to heat up, I offered to tackle Tibi’s account; quickly, that became my full-time job. After Tibi, I looked after social media at Bergdorf Goodman, growing its audience, planning the content strategy, and collaborating with brands and influencers. After BG, I joined The Webster as content director, overseeing editorial across all channels. I loved getting to build creative from a more holistic view. More recently, I’ve joined Linda Fargo in the Bergdorf Goodman Fashion office. I help her cover market, find new talent, and piece together the messaging that BG wants to stand for as a retailer every season— trends, key items, and industry news. What is Linda like as boss? She’s the best! I loved supporting her, even before I was officially on her team. She is warm, sharp, curious, and an endless depth of creativity. She pushes me to think critically, and be intentional with my work. There is nothing more valuable than finding someone you can speak the same language with in a creative field. She takes an idea and builds, builds, builds, until it’s 10 times better than where you started. You grew BG’s social presence majorly, tripling Instagram

using social clout for good

STEPH SHEPHERD You climbed the ranks to COO of Kardashian West Brands. How? I worked hard and was extremely dedicated to my job. I put in a lot of hours. Kim [Kardashian] and Kanye [West]’s wedding was the first time I was delegated a lot of responsibility; it was a pivotal moment, not just for my relationship with Kim, but for me as a young woman to have confidence in my capabilities to handle and be trusted with such an important day. I also loved working on Kimoji; we both learned so much. Kim let me dive in; it turned out as such a cool pop culture

followers in a year and a half and eclipsing follower counts of competitors. How did you accomplish that? Partially just good timing—people were starting to broaden their social followings beyond friends and family to see what their favorite brands had to say. When BG launched social, it was primarily used as a selling tool. The quickest win I pitched for audience growth was to pivot to more storytelling. Bergdorf Goodman is an iconic institution with unbelievable history, so lure people in. Then sell them the shoes! How do you think Instagram has changed how people shop? Instagram has certainly heightened the appetite for discovery—going to your favorite store isn’t enough, now you have the opportunity to follow women you admire all over the globe to see what they’re wearing, and check out which brands they like. I think Instagram has also increased the speed at which a brand or specific item can “take off.” In traditional advertising, there is a rule of three regarding conversion. On average, it takes a consumer seeing a product three times, like on a billboard, magazine ad, or commercial before deciding to purchase. Now those three times can happen in 30 seconds scrolling through your feed! How have you evolved your personal social strategy? Because my work in social is so strategic, pitched, and approved, my personal is a spontaneous outlet, just for fun! Hopefully it’s an honest reflection of what I love— friends, family, fashion, art, advocacy. I don’t overthink it, and it’s not for everyone, but that’s okay!

moment! KKW Beauty was my first time doing product development. It was an invaluable beauty business education, and so rewarding to see Kim’s ideas come to life, and to be a part of something from the seed of an idea to actual product on shelves! Did working with a high-profile family put you in the public eye? Working with the family became normal. I forget I’m “in the public eye” until I do something I think no one would ever see and it becomes a news story. I’m actually a private person, so that’s taken some getting used to. These days, you run a climate education platform, Future Earth! It’s a collaborative project with my good friend Max Moinian. We wanted to create a space to share digestible, aesthetically pleasing information that’s relatable to our friend group. We felt there was, and is, a yearning for education and a link to action. You’re also actively involved in other climate change organizations, the Climate Reality Project and World War Zero. I’ve been a huge supporter of Al Gore my entire life. I saw that his convention was coming to L.A., so I immediately signed up. The climate crisis can be an overwhelming, daunting issue, so when I found a community of like-minded people helping solve this crisis, it gave me hope. It was inspiring. Any chance I can lend my name and support to a worthwhile cause like this, I will. It’s the single greatest issue facing humanity. It’s as simple as no planet, no people. You’re also exec producing and hosting a Facebook Watch series! It’s centered around women sharing their stories and looking for guidance and camaraderie. I want to bring people together and show how much stronger we are when we stand together and support one another.

taking the plunge

COCO BASSEY Backstory, please! After 10 years in product marketing for commercial real estate, software, and tax and accounting firms, I moved to NYC this month to transition my side hustle as an influencer and content creator into a full-time endeavor. This wasn’t an overnight decision. It’s been in the works for three years. Everything I’ve worked toward is finally becoming a reality! How did turn your passion project into a full-fledged profession? My corporate experience plays a huge role in how I’ve treated my business as more than a hobby. I invested my 9-to-5 salary into my business since day one, and I’ve always prioritized the industry connections I’ve made, which are more important than one-off partnerships. A lot of people don’t understand how much behind-the-scenes work goes into brilliant moments on Instagram.

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Influence effect

the mavericks

Craig’s

List

A true pioneer in the influencer world with more energy than a power plant, Tina Craig, aka Bag Snob, is a force to be reckoned with. After 15 years building brands and changing the way the fashion industry operates, she’s turning an obsession with skincare into a dream come true with the recent launch of the skincare miracle U Beauty. The OG tells us about her early days in the biz and why she launched her dream product. By EDDIE ROCHE

Do you remember the first shows you were invited to? In 2005, nobody knew who we were, and another blogger said we should collectively request Fashion Week tickets. Back then, they only invited editors, buyers, and a couple of clients. Kelly Cutrone invited all of us as a group— these people are not blogging anymore. I think Oscar de la Renta was the first real brand that invited us. Some contemporary brands invited us, too. DVF also came to me because they were launching bags, and at the time, all the editors were using my site as a reference. They would google a bag and the only thing that came up was my site. The first press I ever got was in British Vogue. I was writing the blog anonymously at the time, but I had this pen pal who would e-mail me and ask what bag she should buy. She called herself Furla Girl, so I assumed she was some young kid. One day she wrote to me and said she wanted me to reveal myself; she wanted to do an essay on me. She said everyone in London was talking about me and my cheeky humor. When I trashed a bag, I would call it all kinds of names. She told me who she was and that her best friend was Alexandra Shulman, who was the editor in chief of British Vogue at the time. She

got the okay to write a 2,000-word essay about me and another blogger. Once that article came out, a New York newspaper reached out to me, and brands started to take notice. To be honest, I was really lucky. It wasn’t like I was doing anything spectacular and revamping the whole publishing world. What was your blog like at the time? It was basically like a journal between me and a girlfriend [Kelly Cook], so it was conversational in tone. We knew our bags because we’ve been obsessed since college. It was the right place and the right time. I was the only game in town. When you googled things back then, you had either journalists who were frustrated and started a blog to write about their passion, or “pajama bloggers,” who were 17 years old. My voice stood out because they could tell I really collected bags. I’d write about a pink crocodile $8,000 Tod’s bag that I wanted, [the brand] reached out to me and said that because of my article, women called them and wanted it, too. I was moving product. It was the recession, people weren’t buying, and anytime I’d write about a bag, it would sell. We realized we could turn this into a serious business. A conversation between

two friends became a conversation between hundreds of thousands of women and men around the world. How did industry folks treat you when you sat front row at shows? I would be seated next to serious writers who were there to review. They would talk to one another and ignore me. People were like, “Who are you?” I’d say, “I’m a blogger!” and they’d turn their backs on me. What are your favorite memories of attending shows? My No. 1 memory is Raf Simons’ last show at Jil Sander; at the end of the show when he came out to walk, he started crying. We all rushed to the stage, surrounded him, and hugged him. He was bawling. It was so emotional. I’ll never forget that. I’m also so glad I flew to New York for Karl [Lagerfeld’s] Chanel Resort show at The Met, which was his last walk. There was also a show where these crazy girls came out topless at Nina Ricci to protest fur. That was really interesting! Do you still do Fashion Month the same way? No. It’s exhausting. Back then, going to shows was exciting because you couldn’t see them anywhere else. There was no Instagram. I would go to 12 shows a day. Now I see the show on Insta, so I don’t feel that FOMO. I love fashion shows. When they pull back the plastic on the runway, I get a high like nothing else. I’m still so excited when I get to a show. When The Daily wrote about me, Bryanboy, and Rumi Neely many years ago, Sasha Charnin was the first fashion editor to reach out. She said she knew we were going to be huge. She texted me, “You have a full-page feature in The Daily! You’ve made it!” I still get excited! How do you have so much energy? I feel like I’m tired all the time. I love my life. I try to see the positive in everything! I’m always onto something new. Right now I’m on TikTok and having fun. I don’t feel like I need to be just a blogger. The minute there was Twitter, I went on it; the minute there was Facebook, I was on it. Whatever it is, I want to be on it. You recently launched a skincare product, U Beauty. How did that come together? A decade ago I wrote a blog post about my 13-step [face] routine. As I got busier, I thought, “There has to be a way to get the same results, but why does it take 13 products?” When I talked to anyone in the skincare industry about whether it was possible to have an intelligent skincare product that only treats your skin where it needs it, people would laugh at me. It was so frustrating. Then I was out with friends and told them my dream was to create a skincare line with products that brighten, tighten, tone, hydrate, and refine pores; to give laser-resurfacing results without side effects and potential danger. Instead of laughing at me, my now-partner said a lab in Italy had this new technology. We met with the Italians, who said they’d never met someone so obsessed with skincare! We started testing formulations. I kept testing, tweaking, and sharing samples with editors. Not only do I want one product that works, but it also has to be nontoxic, clean, and inclusive. Now we have the miracle product I’ve been dreaming of. What do you still want to do? I know this is corny, but everything in my career has led to U Beauty. My goal is to grow it. I have a couple other products in the pipeline. I want to create what’s not available, and what people want. Less is more, which is truly the philosophy of U Beauty. I’ve never thought that! I’ve always thought more is more. If you have a great product like this, you’re using less but doing more for your skin. I want everyone to have great skin. Skincare has been a lifelong obsession fueled by my grandmother. In our culture, good skin is the ultimate status of a beautiful woman. It matters not if you’re short, overweight, or underweight; if you have good skin, you can do anything.

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TeZZa Barton started behind the lens more than a dozen years ago, and has since parlayed her expert eye into Instagram gold as @tezza, with more than 800K followers, and a popular photoediting app with 3 million-plus downloads. Oh, and her own fashion and sunglasses collections, NBD. How did you come up with the idea for your Tezza app? I’ve been a photographer for more than 12 years, constantly working on my skills and editing aesthetic and sharing my work online. In that time, it started to gain an audience and reputation, and people were constantly asking me how I edited my photos. If there’s one thing

I’ve learned as an artist it’s the more you share, the more you grow, so I started to share my technique with people and hosted a few workshops around photography. A few years into this, my husband [Cole Herrmann], who is now my business partner, thought it would be super cool if we could take everything I knew and put it all together in an easy-to-use app, so people could really achieve the photography aesthetic they wanted. What was the app-building process like? My husband studied computer science in school but never built a photo editing app before, so it took us a solid year for him to build it, test it, and finally release it. It was just the two of us in our little studio apartment cranking away on it at night while we were working on the rest of the brand during the day. I’ll never forget the day we got everything working! The second we launched we learned so much right way. We built the app for our community, and it was extremely helpful to have immediate feedback that really shaped the app to what it is today. At the time we didn’t expect it to be a full-time job; it was just an idea. Jump ahead a year and half later and the Tezza app has become one of the biggest parts of our business. Do you plan to expand the Tezza app, and launch more apps? We are already working on our 2021 plan for the app. We have new updates being worked on every day that will launch every month of this year! We have so many ideas around giving the tools over to creatives and letting them showcase their special sauce in the app and lots of other surprises to make creating content fun and original.

Tell us about your eyewear! Why did you want to explore that category? I’m a lover of accessories. There’s no better way to finish an outfit than with a pair of sunglasses. I’ve been collecting them for years and feel like they’re the one thing I’m always willing to invest in because the styles always come back around. I wanted to create a line of statement vintage-inspired eyewear that was high quality but didn’t break the bank. Keeping the glasses under $100 was our biggest goal; I was so excited our team pulled it off, even using exclusive acetates and luxury lenses. What categories do you want to tackle next? Footwear and jewelry, no question. I’m already getting my feet wet in one of those categories, and can’t wait to launch something soon! Any tips for those aspiring to a career like yours? Don’t stop, don’t give up, and don’t ever think it’s too late. I’m trying to keep up with the newer and younger generation just as much as someone coming up is. The industry will always be here; the platforms will evolve. Have ideas, have value, ask yourself what are you giving. If you’re doing that, there will always be a place for you. What was your biggest professional challenge in 2019? Running your own business, and also doing it with your spouse, is so rewarding but has its challenges. Last year was full of extreme personal hardships from health to family. There were so many days I didn’t know how to balance running a business and dealing with the personal side of things. I think my biggest challenge this year was truly realizing that I am a businesswoman, and I had to learn how to be a boss and manage a team of people in order to bring the most to my business. It took time, but we’ve finally hit a stride where separating my business life from my personal life is possible and incredibly helpful to my overall mental health. How do you predict the influencer industry will change in 2020? We’re all becoming better influencers, and the younger generation got to see the industry form and absorb that. I’m excited to see them come up and how they will shift it. It’s nice to finally be taken seriously as an influencer. A lot of people used to think it was a fake job and all we did was take selfies and sit around drinking lattes. We are business owners, creating high-quality advertisements with brands, and using our trusted communities to help launch and expand products. There’s nothing easy about it and to anyone who thinks so, please give it a try. If you want to be successful, it’s a highly demanding 24/7 grind. What’s still on your career bucket list? Working with Gucci in some capacity. They always nail their storytelling and visuals; it’s been a brand that has spoken to me for as long as I can remember.

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Personal style is far from superficial, as psychologist-turned-blogger Christie Ferrari proves with her Insta explorations of the complex connections among our brains, moods, and closets. What piqued your interest about psychology? An AP psychology class I took my last year of high school totally caught my attention. I originally thought I was going to do fashion merchandising, but after taking this class, and then taking additional classes in college, I was hooked! I went on to get my doctorate. I was a resident at the Johns Hopkins Hospital/Kennedy Krieger Institute in Baltimore. I saw patients daily, and was working toward starting or joining a private practice. After my residency, I was offered a job in New York to join a practice on Madison Avenue—it was sort of the pinnacle, and exactly what I wanted. And then…blogging happened. How and why did you begin cultivating your voice and following on social media? I had my Instagram back when I lived in Miami in 2012 and would publish mirror OOTDs like everyone else.

What spurred your Psychology Behind Fashion series? I realized my audience cared about Fashion Week, but they sometimes tuned out because of its grandeur and inaccessibility. So I looked for new ways of looking at Fashion Week, from a psychological lens. You talk about your desire to help normalize people’s daily struggles. How so? I think there’s this idea, particularly on social media, that life is supposed to be rainbows and unicorns 24/7. It isn’t. We all have something we’re dealing with. We all have daily struggles, from small to big. From not knowing what to wear to a job interview or a date, to coping with anxiety, identity questions,or sleep concerns. My goal is to normalize that, and hopefully provide strategies to help you out with #DrCsTips. Do you still see patients? No. I don’t have time, and I worry about being fair to patients if I need to attend events like Fashion Month. I hope to get back to it soon, though, even one day a week, but not yet. The fashion industry has gotten candid about mental health, namely anxiety and eating disorders. Is this encouraging to you? Absolutely, but with a caveat. On one hand, I am 100 percent on board with the idea of destigmatizing mental health and talking openly about it. I think we all should; we’ll find we have much more in common than we think. On the other hand, I do caution that we need to be sure we’re getting research-backed tips and techniques from psychologists. I have no problem at all with people who aren’t psychologists letting their followers know what worked for them. But I also really believe we should talk to therapists to help us cope.

My friends started liking and following the outfits, then recommended I turn my profile public, so I did. I moved to Baltimore for my residency, in a more academic setting, and Baltimore and Miami being so different from a fashion perspective, I realized I wasn’t dressing up as much. I started the blog in January 2014 as a creative outlet, a way to have fun with fashion and trends, and to express myself. When I was first invited to NYFW from Baltimore in fall 2014, I couldn’t quite believe it. I took a day or two off my residency, and came to New York to check it all out. When did you decide to meld psychology, style, and social media? That’s more recent. In fact, for some time, I tried to keep my two worlds as separate as possible. Then I began integrating mental health and psychology, but realized it was rather abrupt. I kept asking myself, “How can I bring these two topics together?” I started researching and becoming more attuned with enclothed cognition— the research, data, and studies behind how fashion and clothing make us feel, how it aids in how others perceive us, and what persona we can put forth based on our wardrobe selection. There’s a mental-health component of fashion, like feeling confident or coping with anxiety, which are areas I have training in and feel I can help people with, while still of course not providing actual therapy. How’s the reception been to your approach to fashion psych? It’s been quite positive, actually! People say they’re always learning something new from the captions, and it’s not just about “shoving” product down their throats. I also get tons of DMs from people thanking me for the mentalhealth aspect of my captions and how it’s helped them, which means the world to me.

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Ferrari enlightens us on the meaning of some trends du season… and that noir-on-noir habit. Ultra-chunky Crochet Knits

“Loose-fitting clothing, like a good knit, helps you come off as relaxed and casual. Research on weighted blankets shows that anything over 10 percent your body weight can provide a calming effect, so the chunkier the better! It’s like a sartorial hug.” WEARING ALL BLACK, 24/7

“Black is seen as an emotional armor of sorts, so it can be a protection from emotional vulnerabilities. But it’s also a mysterious color, so people don’t know what to expect. It can help you come off as tough, or be seen as elegant at nighttime.” Classic blue, aka Pantone’s 2020 Color of the Year

“Blue can help you come off as trustworthy and a team player, so it’s a great color to wear, for example, during a job interview.”

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Nguyen’s Soho CBD boutique, Artemis, is a stylish haven for healing.

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Driven and intrepid, Wendy Nguyen is using the massive platform spurred by her style blog, Wendy’s Lookbook, to speak out about the foster-care system, sexual abuse, and CBD’s therapeutic benefits to affect change, initiate difficult and crucial conversations—and even improve lives.

Backstory, please! I had three jobs in high school. I worked in the school cafeteria from 5:45 to 7:45 a.m. every morning, at Jamba Juice on the weekends, and as a weekly math tutor from 6 to 9 p.m. at a local community college. But I’ve been in love with fashion since I was 8, when I held my first fashion magazine. After college, I worked in finance but always looked at fashion forums at night. After five years in banking, I left; soon after, I started my blog, Wendy’s Lookbook. I’ve been a content creator for almost 10 years now, and I love every minute of it. How did you build your immense following? My YouTube channel grew mainly because one of my videos went viral. “25 Ways to Wear a Scarf ” has more than 40 million views, and my YouTube channel has over 94 million views. This jump-started Wendy’s Lookbook. As more social media platforms popped up, my audience joined my journey on Instagram, Pinterest, and so on. Currently, I have more than 2 million readers and viewers across platforms. You’re candid about your hard childhood. What compels you to share about that? I was placed in foster care at around 15 years old, and truly feel that the foster-care system is broken. People are generally not familiar with it. I was teased in high school for being a ward of the court. Even at the beginning of my blogging career, whenever I mentioned foster care, I had comments from people thinking I was a bad kid or a runaway. The foster care system does not adequately prepare young people for emancipation. When I was in the system, my social worker said, “30 percent of you will

be homeless, 30 percent will be incarcerated, 30 percent will become pregnant, and 10 percent will maybe make it.” These figures are unfortunately the reality for many foster-care youths. If we dig deeper, we can see why young people are placed in foster care; abuse, neglect, and abandonment are the main reasons. I try to contribute to the larger picture and share my experiences of being in foster care in hopes of spreading awareness about these issues. Has there been meaningful feedback about how vocal you are on these difficult topics? The reason I was placed in foster care was because I was sexually abused by my cousins, and physically and verbally abused by my parents. I actually shared this about two years ago, and was extremely afraid of the feedback. I honestly thought people wouldn’t believe me. Growing up, my abusers constantly reminded me that if I said anything, no one would believe me. The fear of sharing, shame, and guilt all came back at once. What really helped me was reading and listening to other women sharing their own experiences and offering support. Their stories, rawness, strength, and shared trauma gave me a sense of purpose, and for once in my life, I didn’t feel so alone. What was the impetus for your CBD boutique, Artemis? It started out as a pop-up, mainly because we didn’t know if we could financially support the concept for longer than that. We opened in May 2019 and thought we would do it for three months, which turned into six months, then six months turned into a year, and now we’re staying much longer. The birth of Artemis was a natural

extension of Colin [Gardner, Nguyen’s boyfriend] and my passions: Colin’s love of biochemistry and my love for problem solving when it comes to health issues. The CBD market has really blown up. How did you strive to differentiate Artemis? Artemis is a premier CBD shop, and our approach to this market is very specific and different. We carry about 20 brands, and have an extremely detailed curating process. Curating by lab tests only, we request all lab testing to see the cannabinoid and terpene values, pesticides, heavy metals, microbials, and residual solvents levels. Products are cross-examined to ensure their claims are true and correctly labeled. We also provide a complete 360-degree approach to client care. Our products are all hemp-derived with less than 0.3 percent THC dry weight, so some clients find they might need a higher amount of THC to treat their medical conditions. We help facilitate the whole process, from getting a cannabis medical card to visiting a cannabis dispensary by working with a network of medical professionals. We’re also the only CBD shop in Manhattan with a medical adviser, Dr. Junella Chin, a world-leading integrative cannabis physician with more than 15 years of patient care. How did you first get acquainted with CBD? Because of my past and due to the sexual abuse, my pelvic floor was damaged. I was also diagnosed with depression and PTSD at age 15. I saw countless doctors and specialists, who prescribed antibiotics. I was also on a cocktail of other medications for 20 years. I get about 24 pelvic spasm episodes and bladder infections a year. Because of the long-term antibiotics use, I get horrible stomach aches, and overall felt unwell for long periods of time. I was just sick of feeling sick all the time. One day, I was watching the Vice network, and they featured cannabis and its potential health benefits. That thought never left my mind. I started exploring, and became curious about CBD. Coupling CBD with other antiinflammatory supplements, I went from 24 to two pelvic spasm episodes and bladder infections last year. With my depression and PTSD, CBD has helped significantly to improve my quality of life. My own experiences with CBD fueled the fire to start Artemis, creating a safe space for women and men to share their struggles and experiences, and get the help they need.

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Victoria Brito segued from model to influencer to share her deep passion for sneakers and more with the world. Next up? A jewelry line—and eventually social media domination. What’s your modeling experience been like? I started modeling at age 12; it’s been a crazy life, to say the least, but I wouldn’t have it any other way! One of the most memorable for me is shooting with Bruce Weber for W. How did you become a full-fledged sneakerhead? Hi, my name is Victoria, and I have a sneaker problem! I became obsessed with sneakers at a young age. My first pair was a white low-top Nike Air Force 1, and I wore them until they ripped. That’s when my research began, and it’s been an addiction ever since. How do you navigate the male-dominated sneaker space? Yes, sneaker culture is super male influenced, and I’m realizing more now that there’s a desperate need for female voices. I’m so glad I get to push the culture. It’s time to change the narrative on sneakers. What was the first really pivotal pair you purchased? One of my favorite, most important sneakers is the Undefeated Kobe Bryant x Nike collaboration sneaker. RIP, Kobe. He was and will always be my favorite player! He changed the narrative, which I really respect about him, and try to do in my work. Those sneakers meant the world to me when I got them, and they mean everything to me now.

Any pointers for creating great sneaker content? Be natural with your sneaker shots, and don’t overanalyze it. Sneaker culture can be fickle, and they’ll be the first to let you know you’re trying too hard for clout. You gotta be organic! And I use the Melbourne and Jakarta filters; you can never go wrong with those. Tell us about your upcoming collab with jewelry brand Pietra. I can’t wait to release it. Expect the unexpected! Everyone’s been extremely helpful with all my wild ideas. I get really excited when I see my designs come to life! It’s insane the things I’ve learned so far. There’s no limit to what I want to do and what they’re able to create. How would you describe your loyal followers? A lot of men follow me. I’m a huge sports fan; I talk about it all the time. Being a girl who knows her stuff is cool! What’s the most impactful feedback you’ve gotten from followers? A female follower told me my videos inspire her, make her laugh, and forget whatever negativity is going on in her life. What else do you want to tackle in your career? I want to keep inspiring girls. Be you, be authentic! I want to write a book, keep collaborating with incredible brands, and continue to push and change the narrative. Also, I have a great idea for my own sneaker design!

of the clothing comes directly from our personal closets. Bick: Sometimes we also pull samples from local designers and vintage stores. Once we’ve confirmed the movie and specific scenes, it’s a lot of mood boarding, image sourcing, and location scouting. I also rewatch the movie many times beforehand. I love location scouting. It’s my guilty pleasure, and is the perfect excuse to explore parts of NYC I haven’t seen. Wardrobe decisions are pretty fluid. Igee and I take a flexible approach to how much to mimic or modernize the time period. What do you love most about the shooting experience? Grant Legan: The ability to create a modern twist on old classics. I really enjoy turning Krystal and Igee into these

film characters, based on Krystal’s location planning and both of their unique romantic wardrobe styles. It’s like we’re working on a movie of our own. Any especially memorable shoots thus far? Bick: We couldn’t help but laugh for most of the Roman Holiday shoot. It was the thick of summer, so the only time we could shoot without sweating profusely was early morning, before the city was really out and about. We shot on The Met steps, to mimic the Spanish Steps, with a loaned Vespa neither of us knew how to drive; at the New York Public Library, to mimic the Trevi Fountain; at a café in the heart of Little Italy; and at a gelato shop, because it would be criminal not to include some gelato!

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How did these cinematic shoots come about? Igee Okafor: Krystal and I met a few years ago, and we bonded about our mutual love for old Hollywood classics. A year later, in early 2019, Krystal decided we should take a stab at re-creating them! Our first was Funny Face, with Audrey Hepburn and Fred Astaire. Krystal suggested Grant Legan should shoot it. It was a seamless two-day shoot, at a studio in Chelsea and in Washington Square Park. Krystal Bick: So much content is produced at a whirlwind speed; I fell in love with how Igee and Grant both look to tell an in-depth narrative in each image, an ethos I try to incorporate in my own work. It’s since become an ongoing series, dubbed TTT Classics for my blog, tackling the likes of Roman Holiday, Sabrina, and The Talented Mr. Ripley. How do you scout for the perfect locations and outfits? Okafor: Typically, Krystal leads the location scouting. I applaud her for committing to storytelling as authentically as we can. For the fashion and accessories, a lot, if not all,

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Influencers Krystal Bick and Igee Okafor ingeniously channel iconic film scenes, lensed by Grant Legan, to make social media gold. Here’s how.

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along with judges. Our cute tradition suddenly turned into a cutthroat competition. It was his opportunity to criticize everyone’s costumes. It was Dick’s chance to be a dick. He turned this innocent thing where people were just having a good time into an opportunity to read them and talk about how they weren’t good enough. He turned a simple, fun thing into something people feared. He came in to destroy the DNA. How did the staff respond? Someone kept a tally of people who had been fired in our departments in offices around the world since he began. I remember they checked off another name and said out loud to the office, “We’re up to 55!” It destroyed morale. Nobody knew if they were next. There was a time where morale was really bad, so he decided to throw a pizza party. Yet the morale was low because he was firing everyone. The company felt like family before he came along and destroyed it. A double pepperoni pizza and Sprite weren’t going to solve the problem. What were some of the other problems? We realized we’d been hoodwinked. He was the fixer! We started doing surveys to talk about how happy or miserable you were at the company. All the complaints were about him! He was micromanaging everyone so closely so he could take credit for every good thing happening. He would encourage you and then steal from you! Dick felt like he could do anything. He thought our jobs were so easy. Nobody could do it as well as him. Once he learned the lay of the land, he was quick to say he could do it. But he couldn’t. When did you realize he wasn’t qualified for the job? He didn’t know what influencers were. He didn’t know about engagement or insights. We covered for him. He’s

The Mask. He fooled everyone! It quickly became clear he didn’t have the relationships that he claimed, he didn’t know celebrities, or what it took to put a great show together. Were there any redeeming qualities about him? Oh, yeah! He was a shark. He always wanted to win first; I respected that about him. He was very shrewd. The fashion world isn’t shrewd enough. We’re too earnest. What were some of the other issues with Dick? He would start going to “the gym” in the daytime. He would be gone for an hour or two. He would disappear during the day, but we knew he wasn’t going to lunch because he doesn’t eat. It was just Diet Coke, Diet Coke, Diet Coke. What other personality traits were memorable? There was no empathy. There was no understanding. Do you think he’s mean? He’s cunning. His life is a soap opera! Let’s talk about his intriguing social media presence. He certainly enjoys a selfie! He loves Instagram. I think he bought his followers. He doesn’t have the engagement that goes along with the follower count. People would gather around the desks to see what was going on with his Instagram and laugh at it. Everything is about him, which is fine because it’s Instagram, but it felt like we were dealing with a teenage girl longing for attention. Dick is no longer with the company. What do you think will happen to him? He’d probably be good at selling cars. What can the fashion world learn from your experience with Dick? Don’t hire someone with teeth like that—and perfectly coiffed hair!

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What was everyone’s reaction when Dick was hired? One morning at work, our old boss was escorted out. Dick came in as global [redacted] a few hours later. We didn’t know our old boss was getting fired. Dick wanted to have meetings with every division. He reminded me of Jim Carrey in The Mask. He came in like, “We’re going to do it! I’m gonna make this company rock! I’m gonna solve everything! See my smile? See my teeth?” He’s a salesman. He came in proclaiming that things were going to be very different, as if we were all unhappy. Nobody complained about the former boss. She was a nice lady. I never knew where she was, and I didn’t care. Dick made his presence very known from the start. He would go through the halls and show off his new Gucci shoes. He would touch people’s sweaters and ask if they were wearing cashmere. He’d say it to people who clearly couldn’t afford cashmere. It got crazier as time went by. He came for Halloween first! How so? The company had an annual Halloween party where each division dressed up in different costumes and did a runway walk in the office. Halloween is an excuse for all of us to get f**ked up. Fashion people love to drink and have a good time. This is an annual tradition that someone at the company cared about and put together; they get the pizza, champagne, wine, all of that. Traditionally, each division would march down the hallway as people were cheering us. People took it seriously. It was so much fun. Think about it: We work in an office where a lot of people are left out of fabulous parties, like the accounting department, the seamstresses, etc.—so this was a really big deal. This is their time to show they can be creative as well. Dick turned that into RuPaul’s Drag Race, where he was RuPaul

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The New York media world has resembled a game of musical chairs in the past years, as various players got sacked, many jumping to digital mega brands or launching digital start-ups with venture money. Some even went to run marketing for their former clients, the fashion companies. One such infamous newish fashion honcho was finally shown the door to the cheers of his entire staff, after an exhausting tenure. A former employee anonymously tells The Daily what it was like working with… let’s call him Dick, who came in guns ablaze and ruined much of his staff’s lives.

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FA S H I O N W E E K DA I LY. C O M

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2/5/20 10:48 AM

news

the daily dossier “You haven’t seen the last of moi!”

Deliciously phony communications from THE DAILY’s archive!

CONFIDENTIAL Anoth c o n v e rs a e r ti Glenda B on with ailey stilet to ’s

pari soda spoken since that wonderful Cam Hello there, gorgeous. We haven’t r the Versace show. at the Four Seasons in Milan afte es? I’m really going to miss them. oliv d God, don’t you love those frie n for you? What does Glenda’s big news mea ether, but trying to cobble myself back tog Frankly, I need a break. I’ve been toll. Do a n over the years have really take so many struggles and fractures ak on wre can or of havoc the Hearst escalat you even understand what kind eet. elopment is bittersw someone like me? But still, this dev How so? sure, but I decades now. I was overworked, Look, I’ve been in commission for nal trip to asio occ , Paris, Milan, and even the did see a lot of the world. London fractured s bos my n a few months in 2017, whe Garrison. With the exception of edibly incr felt I’ve ” ers, ething called “sneak her foot and started wearing som irety of my career. useful and in-demand for the ent What’s next for you? me back on ion season—Glenda isn’t putting Well, we still have one final fash my photo e hav I’ll t ry—so I’m confident tha the shelf until the end of Februa ortunity to opp the e hav I oriam, etc. I do hope taken a few more times. In mem . form plat toria Beckham’s say goodbye to my best friend, Vic r retirement? And do you have any plans for you do g dust, if you will. But I do plan to erin gath Not really. I expect that I’ll be had y onl lly rea I’ve ; in the past few years, some leisure reading at long last believe that Demi Moore’s memoir. Can you like ks, time for work-related boo have any you if , way Any such a gentleman! Ashton? I always thought he was ed. bor ily my way. I’m eas recommendations, do send them

ES ROFIL R AYA P EDI A’S OF M ED WA N T MOST

“A. Dubbs” F A S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M

Issue1_BackpagePaperTrail_APPROVED.indd 1

[REDACTED] chief revenue officer: Thank you so muc h to the editorial team for joining us today. Based on the recent success of [redacted], which is essential ly a silly documentary about the crazy s**t that goes down in that place that [redacted ] has convinced everyone is a legitimate med ia business, we are tasking you with way s to similarly monetize—er, optimize—your magazine. Ideas? [REDACTED] editor in chief: Didn’t we used to own [redacted] or something? Can’t we just get it back? [REDACTED] chief revenue officer: That ’s not a very helpful conversation start er. [REDACTED] editor in chief: Well, our staff doesn’t have time to hang around inspecting their genitals with a hand mirror. In fact, most of them are popping speed like Skittles in order to get their Slacks under control. Are you aware that our editors are now working for, on average, 4.7 different brands at one time? [REDACTED] chief revenue officer: Of course. That brilliant and inspired reorg was my attempt to ensure the survival of your little fashion magazine that nobody unde r age 50 even reads. Have you ever wondered why half of your book consists of ads for Flonase and Cialis? We need a new revenue stream, sweetie. [REDACTED] editor in chief: Why don’t you just send a camera crew to follow me the next time I’m forced to drink two bottles of claret just so I can get through an interminable lunch with the media buye rs at American Spirit? I assure you that everyone at Balthazar finds this funny. Surely the American public will agree. [REDACTED] you know it.

chief revenue officer: We don’t like to publicize that relationship, and

[REDACTED] editor in chief: How about you and your little cronies follow along my creative director on his next trip to the New York Supreme Court, while he sorts out the hellish custody battle brought on by the even more hellish divorce that was unde niably caused by the crushing stress of work ing at this company? [REDACTED] chief revenue officer: Interesting idea , but I doubt we could get that past legal. Don’t you have anyone on staff that’s on the verge of a nervous breakdown or has some sort of tie to Meghan Mark le?

DAN PERES ANNA WINTOUR

AGE: Still young enough for Roger! INTERESTS: The Newhouse family’s financial situation ISO: Moneyed but unemployed type who’s game to tag along. If you’re an heir, I’m aware!

R IP T TR A NSC OF A T V NG OR MI BR A I NST NG at MEETI OMPA N Y MEDI A C

“Diddy Pop” AGE: I started sleeping again, so how old do I look? INTERESTS: Finding gainful employment, shocking and awing the reading public ISO: A job, my next book idea, and endless ways to fill the long expanse of time that’s stretching before me

JOAN NA COLES

“Not-so-average Jo” AGE: Older than Tilda, but not much INTERESTS: Female empowerment (define as you wish!), growing my profile, showing the world just how silly TikTok actually is. Snap for life! ISO: A power player with a sense of humor. No married types or presidential hopefuls need apply!

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Fake

2/5/20 11:13 AM

Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu/NYC

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8/30/19 11:40 AM

A LIMITED EDITION COLLABORATION WITH LEWIS HAMILTON #TOMMYXLEWIS TOMMY. COM

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1/30/20 3:56 PM